The easy way is to fold a 800 grit wet & dry sheet in a wet sponge over the blade and stroke it for a few minutes then go to 1000 grit and do the same. You now have a sharp bread knife and remember simple is best!
I don't agree with this method. Rod diametar to big for serrations. It is better to realign the bebded serrations with honing steel. Then if it id too blunt to sharpen each serrations with diamond flat sharpening rood
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
You are getting yourself in hot water by using problematic terminology. Say ceramic *rod* or diamond-coated *rod* instead of 'steel'. And even though the term 'honing steel' is frequently used, what it does isn't usually 'honing' in the actual sense of the word. 'Honing' means to refine a surface with a hard abrasive - with a grooved steel you might have some of that, but the main idea is *realigning* and *burnishing* the edge. Incidentally, butcher steels can also be used on serrated knives if the serrations are wide enough or the steel is narrow (there are some steels with an elliptic cross-section) enough, but they will tend to round over the tips of the serrations if used with a bit of force.
Honing has nothing to do with abrasives. The simple difference between honing and sharpening is that in sharpening, you are literally removing metal. Honing removes no metal at all (thus no abrasive action), but straightens microscopic "teeth" at the blade's edge. A butcher steel is a honer, not a sharpener, and won't do a darn thing to a serrated blade other than hone the unbeveled edge, which won't help unless the serrated edges have already been sharpened.
@@kwizmon Many of us are beginners so no, we don't all understand it. I don't. I was hoping someone in the comments would explain: Should this be done with honing rod or a sharpening rod? I thought ceramic rods were only for honing? It's a bit confusing.
Who is this young skeeter?!? Bless his heart for helping me with my fixin' to do. My knife is now pretty as a peach!
Bless his heart.
This is what I needed to know!
Thank you very much.
Very helpful, thank you!
Thanks, really useful
this worked pretty well on mine as well.
Leon like a boss
The easy way is to fold a 800 grit wet & dry sheet in a wet sponge over the blade and stroke it for a few minutes then go to 1000 grit and do the same. You now have a sharp bread knife and remember simple is best!
Would a small natural honing stone work too?
And
The problem is that you never find the right rod size for your knife serration!
🎉
Always a pain in the ass.. the teeth are always a little too small for the skerper rod 😢
If the teeth are too small you could alsy try the Skerper SVSO001 sharpening pen. This will fit almost any serrated knife! - Leon
I don't agree with this method. Rod diametar to big for serrations. It is better to realign the bebded serrations with honing steel. Then if it id too blunt to sharpen each serrations with diamond flat sharpening rood
put sandpaper inbetween a sponge, go up and down. Point knife away from palm!
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
You are getting yourself in hot water by using problematic terminology. Say ceramic *rod* or diamond-coated *rod* instead of 'steel'. And even though the term 'honing steel' is frequently used, what it does isn't usually 'honing' in the actual sense of the word. 'Honing' means to refine a surface with a hard abrasive - with a grooved steel you might have some of that, but the main idea is *realigning* and *burnishing* the edge. Incidentally, butcher steels can also be used on serrated knives if the serrations are wide enough or the steel is narrow (there are some steels with an elliptic cross-section) enough, but they will tend to round over the tips of the serrations if used with a bit of force.
Honing has nothing to do with abrasives. The simple difference between honing and sharpening is that in sharpening, you are literally removing metal. Honing removes no metal at all (thus no abrasive action), but straightens microscopic "teeth" at the blade's edge. A butcher steel is a honer, not a sharpener, and won't do a darn thing to a serrated blade other than hone the unbeveled edge, which won't help unless the serrated edges have already been sharpened.
Nobody is getting themselves in hot water. The terminology is fine and we all understand it.
@@kwizmon Many of us are beginners so no, we don't all understand it. I don't. I was hoping someone in the comments would explain: Should this be done with honing rod or a sharpening rod? I thought ceramic rods were only for honing? It's a bit confusing.