Love the video and appreciate your expertise! I am looking to change out an existing old shower valve with this MultiChoice. It appears to be threaded at each end, does that make it compatible to use compression fittings? I am intimidated with soldering in a confined area, so that would be my chicken out method.
HELP with a standard 2x6 against the back wall between my studs it's measuring 4 and 1/4 inches from the plaster guard on my valve and is measuring 2.5 inches away from my finished wall. I just need the plaster guard flush with the finished wall, correct???
As far as the depth goes, when you add 1/2 inch cement board plus 1/4 thickness for the shower wall. Do I then shim it out that that much further? So instead of having the mounting board depth at 2 3/4 from the front of the studs , it would only be 2 inches from the front of the studs?
I'm installing the same valve, and after scouring 100 of videos about how to install it, yours is the best explanation about the whole process. I would add another tip though (I learned from some other video) is to use Thread Sealant to guarantee no leak. I'm surprised there are not a lot of like
I’m only watching because my foreman doesn’t have time to train me, he’s been sending me out to install two of these, the first one I messed up, the second one I did better now after watching this, I’m feeling better that the 3rd will be the best!
Thank you! I had to go through 5 videos before I found this one. The others were so filled with other nonsense. Thank you for getting to the point! You just got a subscriber!
Shouldn't the plastiguard depth be determined by the thickness of the wall/tile you plan to install? For instance, my wall insert is 1 1/8" thick. The direct to stud install of the insert would need to be calculated somehow, right?
The depth mounting portion of the video is incorrect / misleading. 2 & 11/16" (actually 2 & 3/4") will always be the depth from the back to the edge of the mud guard as it states in Delta's installation manual. What you need to plan for is that the front edge of the mud guard should be flush +/- 1/4" with the finished (tub / shower) wall. So you need to account for the sheet rock/cement board, thin set & tile thickness.
Yes I’m glad somebody else wrote this down before me because I was looking for a comment before posting the same concern. It’s a little concerning considering that’s one of the most important steps to installing a valve! Good looking out!
Delta's install manual points out the same dimension, and it is non-sense and confusing, which is why I looked for additional information. Thanks for pointing this out. That dimension is from the mounting bracket to the front of the mud guard, and that never changes as you point out. So, 1/2 inch for cement board, and about 1/2 inch give or take for your tile and thin set, and you need that sucker sticking out past your framing by about an inch. But check your tile and thin set thickness...but you should get to that +/- 1/4 " .
Thanks for your clear insights. I was listening to this guy and comparing it to the install instructions and I was like "what?! It's always 2 3/4 from the vale to the mud gaurd" This is why we need a down vote counter !
You mentioned a lot of tips, but you don’t mention how to get water flow on the shower head after installation? I replace the cartridge twice and. O water does out, I bet you didn’t know that right?
Very nice 👍. I just installed one of these valves, as per instructions, and still find the tub spout leaking, even though the stop screws are all the way in. Any ideas why?
@@HomeRepairTutor thanks, this is before the cartridge i.e. roughing in before the cement board is up. I just figured out and fixed it. Guess what? There were tiny bits of copper burrs in the o-ring of the water stop screws. I cleaned up and it's all good now, no more leaks. I was surprised to find burrs, I did run the water through after sweating all connections. Perhaps, I have to run a little longer for the pipes to get flushed. You may want to educate others on this.
@@gopsln thank you for the update!! That’s good to know. Flushing the system prior to adding the cartridge probably is a good tip 🙌🏼 I’ll make to tell folks who are doing a similar installation
This was so very helpful. Lots of little details to help a beginner get it right.The instructions with the valve are limited so I would recommend all to watch this video. Thankyou
Excellent detailed video. Does the black plaster guard stay in and connected to the valve or does it come out right before the trim and escutcheon are installed? Second, does the hole in my wall board stay circular for the valve or am I cutting a square to accommodate the plaster guard? Thank you.
@@cjdangles What I did was leave the black, square guard in as you tile around it. It gives you an idea on where the tile needs to go , depth wise, for the escutcheon or base to go. Leave a square hole if your black guard is square or round hole around the valve. That's how I did it. Remove the black plastic guard after you're done tiling and/or grouting that area.
@@cjdangles I commented on this reply area. Leave it in and tile around it. Remove it after you tile the area. It helps guide you on depth or how far out the tile should come...
Regarding the shower stops. On the Delta multichoice valve, the stops are held in by the brass nuts. In order to open the stops, you turn the screwdriver adjustment screws to the fully CCW position until you cannot unscrew any further. The brass nuts will not allow them to come out all the way.
Awesome video, I was starring at my old valve with my new Delta multi yesterday wondering what I was going to do, glad I watched this, answered a ton of questions, thanks, just subscribed.
The measurement for depth is just plain wrong, and the video should be corrected! You should -not- be measuring from the blocking to the front of the plaster guard (which will -always- be the same no matter where you place the blocking), but you should be measuring from the blocking to what will be the front i.e. surface of the finished wall (including depth of tile). Further, if you are installing the valve "with stops" as the video shows, the measurement should not be 2-3/4" plus-or-minus 1/4", it is should be 2-3/4" with up to minus 1/4", meaning the plaster guard should be flush or sub-flush with the finish wall, including tile if any, and not past the finish wall. This measurement along with the depth of the blocking is what determines where you put the blocking.
I've already started this project and bought all pvc connections and line. No pex or copper. Are there any huge no no's doing it this way? Brass to pvc I mean. Seems to be solid. Any advice is welcome thanks
I’m a DIYer. I want to change out the trim in my shower. It’s getting dated. I’d liked to replace the cartridge but the trim has no markings on it to indicate which brand is currently there. I understand valves are proprietary to each brand. I take that to mean, if I have a delta valve I can only use a delta cartridge and trim? I appreciate your channel. Hope you can help
So my buddy got a delta r18000 series valve off of Amazon, off hand would you have a link to get the shower and diverter cartridges? also I need the one piece jetted trim kit thnx man, I'm in central Florida
Excellent video. Very informative! When you mentioned the setback/position or depth of the valve you didn’t mention that Delta has a different setback if you are doing a “THIN” wall. A “THIN” wall is one that is drywall only. I had to have a valve replaced last year and they replaced it with the exact valve you used in the demo. The bathroom has a separate shower and a separate tub. There is a single horizontal row of 12 x 12 tile above the tub which the spout goes through but there is not any tile where the valve is mounted. (Delta does have a note and instructions for a “THIN” wall....) Instead of using a 2x4, etc to mount it to they used a 1x4 (actually 3/4” x 3 1/2”). Delta says for a “THIN” wall the plaster guard must be flush with the back of the drywall or a 1/4” behind the drywall. They also make a “THIN” wall kit which is just a couple of very thin plastic plates designed to stiffen up the wall which was not needed in my case. You can also cap the shower outlet on this valve and use it for a tub only or as you stated a shower only... I also recently found out why Delta and other manufacturers don’t recommend PEX for the tub drop to a drop ear. (This information came from a master plumber and not from Delta or another valve manufacturer). He said It’s because the diameter of PEX is not a true 1/2” diameter and not enough water pressure goes through the valve and tub spout diverter and can cause a very small amount of water to dribble out of the shower head. He said this can happen with any brand of tub/shower valve. I asked him if using PEX-A or using 3/4” PEX would make a difference.... His response was it would probably make a difference but he had never tested it. Hope this information helps.... Ron
Thank you for that information. Does the black plaster guard stay in and connected to the valve or does it come out right before the trim and escutcheon are installed? Second, does the hole in my wall board stay circular for the valve or am I cutting a square to accommodate the plaster guard? Thank you.
This video is so packed full of information! My wife and I are trying to replace our current setup (I believe we have a Moen mixing valve) to this new delta mixing valve. How would I only about doing the install if I really only have access to one side of the wall? The opposing side does butt into a closet. Do you think we will end up having to cut out drywall to gain access to the backside of the space? Sorry, I just have a ton of questions because I have never actually soldered copper before.(even though I soldier electronics at work everyday I’m still worried about water leaks)
You can't use 1/2 pex for the tub spout but you can use 3/4 pex pipe for the tub spout with a drop ear fitting and 1/2 threaded brass or galvanized nipple for the tub spout.
I’ve just installed one of these, and it went fine. One thing I notice though is that with only the two screws mounting it to the blocking (using the diagonally set screw holes in the unit) the unit can be wobble around a bit. I notice that in your video it wobbles some too. Can you comment on why this might be the case, or if at a later step it gets attached to something else to make it more solid (the trim kit for example)? I’m just a touch concerned that if this is not mounted in a nice solid way, the trim/shower controls will also end wobbly? Thanks - and nice videos.
From the stops I believe.make sure they are open all the way. Right?... im here because I bought the R10000-unws-3 but there was no stops or plaster guard in the box. Hmmmm Think ill return it and buy a different one. Ugh
Not all tubs have the drain exactly in the center!!! So a 32" tub may or may not have the drain at 16". I have a 30" wide American Standard alcove tub, but the distance from the back wall to the drain is only 14.25". The front top deck of the tub is wider than the back deck, to allow for putting shampoo bottles etc. So care should be taken to read the installation instructions to find out the correct depth.
I'm doing it now in 2 bathrooms on a home build in 1978. It's a lot of fun after seeing how the plumber ran all of the water lines behind the tubs and in between the tubs (bathrooms are side by side) with no access to the pipes without having to tear out everything in the bathroom and I mean everything. I found lots of pinholes in the pipes. I could not believe the plumbers did not run the pipes in the bulkhead below the bathrooms that would require only cutting into drywall to access the pipes vs. literally having to tear down both bathrooms. I just finish rerouting all the plumbing through the bulkhead under the bathrooms for easier access in the future. A lot of fun. Woopeee.
Looks like the side that is supposed to be facing into the bathtub enclosure is facing in the opposite direction here. I bought a Multichoice and I highly recommend NOT BUYING A DELTA. Piece of junk. I even installed a new one they sent me and it is always on, the valve doesn't work, or it's always off. Garbage, get a Simmons. (my plumber said Delta is junk and he won't install them anymore)
I'm hoping mine works out.... But straight out of the box the flange on the shower pipe was bent completely in half! I couldn't make it look right so it's an instant call to Delta.... I've been on hold for six weeks
Love the video and appreciate your expertise! I am looking to change out an existing old shower valve with this MultiChoice. It appears to be threaded at each end, does that make it compatible to use compression fittings? I am intimidated with soldering in a confined area, so that would be my chicken out method.
Is this the valve that if I later change trim kit I don’t need to change the valve?
Steelers fan???
👊🏼👊🏼🔥🔥👍🏼👍🏼
@@HomeRepairTutor my family is a Steelers family…
How big of a hole do I need for a delta shower valve
4-1/2 to 4-3/4” works
HELP
with a standard 2x6 against the back wall between my studs it's measuring 4 and 1/4 inches from the plaster guard on my valve and is measuring 2.5 inches away from my finished wall.
I just need the plaster guard flush with the finished wall, correct???
You are the best man
Well Done!
Pencil tip for Teflon tape (at 16:42) is brilliant.
Is there a way to control the water pressure by the turn off valve? Example, not opening it all the way?
As far as the depth goes, when you add 1/2 inch cement board plus 1/4 thickness for the shower wall. Do I then shim it out that that much further? So instead of having the mounting board depth at 2 3/4 from the front of the studs , it would only be 2 inches from the front of the studs?
Can't unscrew cap of now installed Delta Univeral valve! Lefty-Lucy didn't work. Will I dent&ruin cap if I try vicegrips or adjustable wrench? Help
I'm installing the same valve, and after scouring 100 of videos about how to install it, yours is the best explanation about the whole process. I would add another tip though (I learned from some other video) is to use Thread Sealant to guarantee no leak. I'm surprised there are not a lot of like
Teflon tape always,
Tread sealant is for
Amateurs
I’m only watching because my foreman doesn’t have time to train me, he’s been sending me out to install two of these, the first one I messed up, the second one I did better now after watching this, I’m feeling better that the 3rd will be the best!
I am replacing a damaged rough-in, can I solder a short 1/2" pipes to each end and then connect to the existing pipes using sharkbites?
The depth you mentioned… that’s assuming a standard cement board + thin set + tile surround yeah?
Great video btw. Super helpful.
yes, although I recommend dry fitting your backer or a piece of it along with tile to just double check the depth
Thank you! I had to go through 5 videos before I found this one. The others were so filled with other nonsense. Thank you for getting to the point! You just got a subscriber!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi do you have a link to your version of the installation for PEX?
this video should help th-cam.com/video/3MHlROJahZ4/w-d-xo.html
Shouldn't the plastiguard depth be determined by the thickness of the wall/tile you plan to install? For instance, my wall insert is 1 1/8" thick. The direct to stud install of the insert would need to be calculated somehow, right?
The depth mounting portion of the video is incorrect / misleading.
2 & 11/16" (actually 2 & 3/4") will always be the depth from the back to the edge of the mud guard as it states in Delta's installation manual. What you need to plan for is that the front edge of the mud guard should be flush +/- 1/4" with the finished (tub / shower) wall. So you need to account for the sheet rock/cement board, thin set & tile thickness.
Yes, this.
Yes I’m glad somebody else wrote this down before me because I was looking for a comment before posting the same concern. It’s a little concerning considering that’s one of the most important steps to installing a valve! Good looking out!
Glad you said this before I start the mounting of my valve thank you!
Delta's install manual points out the same dimension, and it is non-sense and confusing, which is why I looked for additional information. Thanks for pointing this out. That dimension is from the mounting bracket to the front of the mud guard, and that never changes as you point out. So, 1/2 inch for cement board, and about 1/2 inch give or take for your tile and thin set, and you need that sucker sticking out past your framing by about an inch. But check your tile and thin set thickness...but you should get to that +/- 1/4 " .
Thanks for your clear insights. I was listening to this guy and comparing it to the install instructions and I was like "what?! It's always 2 3/4 from the vale to the mud gaurd"
This is why we need a down vote counter !
You mentioned a lot of tips, but you don’t mention how to get water flow on the shower head after installation? I replace the cartridge twice and. O water does out, I bet you didn’t know that right?
Very nice 👍. I just installed one of these valves, as per instructions, and still find the tub spout leaking, even though the stop screws are all the way in. Any ideas why?
if water is leaking at the spout it’s probably a cartridge problem
@@HomeRepairTutor thanks, this is before the cartridge i.e. roughing in before the cement board is up. I just figured out and fixed it. Guess what? There were tiny bits of copper burrs in the o-ring of the water stop screws. I cleaned up and it's all good now, no more leaks. I was surprised to find burrs, I did run the water through after sweating all connections. Perhaps, I have to run a little longer for the pipes to get flushed. You may want to educate others on this.
@@gopsln thank you for the update!! That’s good to know. Flushing the system prior to adding the cartridge probably is a good tip 🙌🏼 I’ll make to tell folks who are doing a similar installation
Is the thickness of the plaster guard aligned with the thickness of the backer board? Or should it sit more proud and be flush with the finished wall?
Flush with finished wall
That’s what I figured. So much for using of a 2X board to space it on 2X4 framing. Mine winds up flush with the Wedi board.
Doesn't the finish wall thickness matter?
What about the stops?
Very informative. Thanks 🙏
Will it work on a 2x3?
I like the tef tape pencil tip!
thank you, we can't take credit for that. It was a plumbing hack here on TH-cam. Very cool idea!
Really excellent video. Extremely helpful indeed.
Thank you for a great video. One question..does the plastic square stay on permanently and just tile up to it? Thanks!
This was so very helpful. Lots of little details to help a beginner get it right.The instructions with the valve are limited so I would recommend all to watch this video. Thankyou
Have y’all made the video of using Pex off the Delta MP7 valve?
Excellent detailed video.
Does the black plaster guard stay in and connected to the valve or does it come out right before the trim and escutcheon are installed?
Second, does the hole in my wall board stay circular for the valve or am I cutting a square to accommodate the plaster guard? Thank you.
Just curious what you ended up doing? thanks!
Same question. What did you find out?
@@cjdangles What I did was leave the black, square guard in as you tile around it. It gives you an idea on where the tile needs to go , depth wise, for the escutcheon or base to go. Leave a square hole if your black guard is square or round hole around the valve. That's how I did it.
Remove the black plastic guard after you're done tiling and/or grouting that area.
@@cjdangles I commented on this reply area. Leave it in and tile around it. Remove it after you tile the area. It helps guide you on depth or how far out the tile should come...
Once assembled do you toss that put black plastic part away? In other words did it just came so you can use it to check the level
kerdi board is offered in different thicknesses for wider stud spacing.
Did you end up making a PEX pipe edition for the Delta Multichoice? Haven't been able to find it!
I’m looking too
Regarding the shower stops. On the Delta multichoice valve, the stops are held in by the brass nuts. In order to open the stops, you turn the screwdriver adjustment screws to the fully CCW position until you cannot unscrew any further. The brass nuts will not allow them to come out all the way.
Awesome video, I was starring at my old valve with my new Delta multi yesterday wondering what I was going to do, glad I watched this, answered a ton of questions, thanks, just subscribed.
Plaster guard has to be flush with finished wall
Thank you so much!
The measurement for depth is just plain wrong, and the video should be corrected!
You should -not- be measuring from the blocking to the front of the plaster guard (which will -always- be the same no matter where you place the blocking), but you should be measuring from the blocking to what will be the front i.e. surface of the finished wall (including depth of tile). Further, if you are installing the valve "with stops" as the video shows, the measurement should not be 2-3/4" plus-or-minus 1/4", it is should be 2-3/4" with up to minus 1/4", meaning the plaster guard should be flush or sub-flush with the finish wall, including tile if any, and not past the finish wall. This measurement along with the depth of the blocking is what determines where you put the blocking.
Anyone looking to this video for advice should look elsewhere. @harrellh3628 is exactly correct.
Holy Cow!!! Bucket loads of knowledge on this one. The pencil hack is absolutely fantastic!! Hope all is well, and Dirty Jersey out!!!
thanks man, can't take credit for that tip but thought it was a great one!
I am tiling the enclosure. Wouldn't I need to place the backer board so the plaster guard is as close to being flush with the tiles as possible?
Great installation tip. The 2x puts you right at 2".
I've already started this project and bought all pvc connections and line. No pex or copper. Are there any huge no no's doing it this way? Brass to pvc I mean. Seems to be solid. Any advice is welcome thanks
I’m a DIYer. I want to change out the trim in my shower. It’s getting dated. I’d liked to replace the cartridge but the trim has no markings on it to indicate which brand is currently there. I understand valves are proprietary to each brand. I take that to mean, if I have a delta valve I can only use a delta cartridge and trim? I appreciate your channel. Hope you can help
So my buddy got a delta r18000 series valve off of Amazon, off hand would you have a link to get the shower and diverter cartridges? also I need the one piece jetted trim kit thnx man, I'm in central Florida
Thanks for all the great info on how to install the Delta multichoice valve.
Excellent video. Very informative! When you mentioned the setback/position or depth of the valve you didn’t mention that Delta has a different setback if you are doing a “THIN” wall. A “THIN” wall is one that is drywall only. I had to have a valve replaced last year and they replaced it with the exact valve you used in the demo. The bathroom has a separate shower and a separate tub. There is a single horizontal row of 12 x 12 tile above the tub which the spout goes through but there is not any tile where the valve is mounted. (Delta does have a note and instructions for a “THIN” wall....) Instead of using a 2x4, etc to mount it to they used a 1x4 (actually 3/4” x 3 1/2”). Delta says for a “THIN” wall the plaster guard must be flush with the back of the drywall or a 1/4” behind the drywall. They also make a “THIN” wall kit which is just a couple of very thin plastic plates designed to stiffen up the wall which was not needed in my case.
You can also cap the shower outlet on this valve and use it for a tub only or as you stated a shower only...
I also recently found out why Delta and other manufacturers don’t recommend PEX for the tub drop to a drop ear. (This information came from a master plumber and not from Delta or another valve manufacturer). He said It’s because the diameter of PEX is not a true 1/2” diameter and not enough water pressure goes through the valve and tub spout diverter and can cause a very small amount of water to dribble out of the shower head. He said this can happen with any brand of tub/shower valve. I asked him if using PEX-A or using 3/4” PEX would make a difference.... His response was it would probably make a difference but he had never tested it.
Hope this information helps....
Ron
Thank you for that information. Does the black plaster guard stay in and connected to the valve or does it come out right before the trim and escutcheon are installed?
Second, does the hole in my wall board stay circular for the valve or am I cutting a square to accommodate the plaster guard? Thank you.
What did you determine? Make a square cut out?
Wish he did test it. Was about to do the Pex A drop ear to the tub spout. Guess ill go with the copper.
This video is so packed full of information! My wife and I are trying to replace our current setup (I believe we have a Moen mixing valve) to this new delta mixing valve. How would I only about doing the install if I really only have access to one side of the wall? The opposing side does butt into a closet. Do you think we will end up having to cut out drywall to gain access to the backside of the space? Sorry, I just have a ton of questions because I have never actually soldered copper before.(even though I soldier electronics at work everyday I’m still worried about water leaks)
Or should I just contract this out? 😳
Great video, very clear and easy to understand.
Awesome! Great channel and good information. Thanks!
You can't use 1/2 pex for the tub spout but you can use 3/4 pex pipe for the tub spout with a drop ear fitting and 1/2 threaded brass or galvanized nipple for the tub spout.
The pencil trick is very cool. Great info.
I’ve just installed one of these, and it went fine. One thing I notice though is that with only the two screws mounting it to the blocking (using the diagonally set screw holes in the unit) the unit can be wobble around a bit. I notice that in your video it wobbles some too. Can you comment on why this might be the case, or if at a later step it gets attached to something else to make it more solid (the trim kit for example)? I’m just a touch concerned that if this is not mounted in a nice solid way, the trim/shower controls will also end wobbly? Thanks - and nice videos.
There are 4 mounting holes available on this unit.
Great video!
In my kit (R10000-UNBXHF) I have a "RE-USABLE TEST PLUG"...anyone know what this is for?
yes, for pressurizing the system and checking for leaks
All that prep and you didn’t want to use a copperxcopper wingback brass 90 Ford the tub spout ?
this is our preferred method
Had all my bathrooms installed with these. Seems like the water pressure is really low. Is there a way to adjust the water pressure in the valve?
From the stops I believe.make sure they are open all the way. Right?... im here because I bought the R10000-unws-3 but there was no stops or plaster guard in the box. Hmmmm
Think ill return it and buy a different one. Ugh
Haha... Saw you last week at Trader Joe's, but didn't want to bother you, but great channel and great information!
Awesome! Always feel free to say hello. Thanks for watching our stuff, super appreciate the support!
Great video. Would love to see a video on how to integrate the Kerdi membrane with the Delta Multichoice.
instaBlaster...
Not all tubs have the drain exactly in the center!!! So a 32" tub may or may not have the drain at 16". I have a 30" wide American Standard alcove tub, but the distance from the back wall to the drain is only 14.25". The front top deck of the tub is wider than the back deck, to allow for putting shampoo bottles etc. So care should be taken to read the installation instructions to find out the correct depth.
Now do the same
On a 25 year old house in real life !!!!
🤗🤗
I'm doing it now in 2 bathrooms on a home build in 1978. It's a lot of fun after seeing how the plumber ran all of the water lines behind the tubs and in between the tubs (bathrooms are side by side) with no access to the pipes without having to tear out everything in the bathroom and I mean everything. I found lots of pinholes in the pipes. I could not believe the plumbers did not run the pipes in the bulkhead below the bathrooms that would require only cutting into drywall to access the pipes vs. literally having to tear down both bathrooms. I just finish rerouting all the plumbing through the bulkhead under the bathrooms for easier access in the future. A lot of fun. Woopeee.
Are you busy? I have a question
Why not just solder a cap on for the tub spout. Your already soldering why spend the money on the more expensive fitting?
Your beard grows fast as shit
You had a five o clock shadow in the beginning of video and a
full beard at the end
lol, good genes - thanks for watching our video 👍🏼
Is funny how on beginning of video he was nice and shaved and in the end of the video the beard grew up haha
lol, it was getting close to 5 pm
Looks like the side that is supposed to be facing into the bathtub enclosure is facing in the opposite direction here. I bought a Multichoice and I highly recommend NOT BUYING A DELTA. Piece of junk. I even installed a new one they sent me and it is always on, the valve doesn't work, or it's always off. Garbage, get a Simmons. (my plumber said Delta is junk and he won't install them anymore)
I'm hoping mine works out.... But straight out of the box the flange on the shower pipe was bent completely in half! I couldn't make it look right so it's an instant call to Delta.... I've been on hold for six weeks
The pencil trick is very cool. Great info.
thanks, it’s very cool. We can’t take credit but love the idea