How come my dad's old hand powered post auger didn't come with replaceable teeth? If it did, perhaps it would actually work! As it is..... the wooden handle is half rotten, the shaft is slightly bowed and the teeth are bent completely flat (I think someone got frustrated and tried to jam them into a few post holes.... but, I wouldn't know who.) So, what do you think.... should I straighten the teeth and shaft... replace the handle and weld on some teeth? Would it be worth it to try to mount a fishy tail onto it? Or, would I be better off just selling it to Cracker Barrel as a wall hanger?
You guys have All the gear. We use a heated pressure washer and clean the hell out of the auger propane torch to dry. Be for any work. Typical build up any wear with 2 mig welders one with fill other mig with bare wire. Our augers look like Spiderman puked on it with all the webbings. Once completed we coat it with fluid film and a wax coating that hardens same wax used to incase asbestos. Keeps them protected for a bit longer believe it or not.
Those spade teeth are totally useless here. Carbide bullet teeth are the only way to go. I like to pressure clean the auger first then use electrolysis to de-rust the tooth pockets if necessary.The screw in pilot nits often require a torch to loosen up.
We have augers with both square and round carbide but only use them in solid rock. They work poorly in dirt. For hard frozen soil and asphalt, we replace the teeth Dan was installing in the video with carbide a carbide version. The difference is about $12/tooth. Almost all winter we use the carbide version to auger frozen soil and they do much better than the round bullet teeth.
![ว้าว!ลุงบีมแบกทองมารับขวัญหลานกันยกบ้าน [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.49 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Osihq1OAs-4/mqdefault.jpg)
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 76 | คู่เอก "ผึ้งหลวง vs สมิงดำ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9SBshmGQOIM/mqdefault.jpg)
Absolutely agree you want your equipment to last and operate efficiently for as long as possible 👍
I didn't know any of this. Very informative, thanks homies.
Our pleasure!
How come my dad's old hand powered post auger didn't come with replaceable teeth? If it did, perhaps it would actually work!
As it is..... the wooden handle is half rotten, the shaft is slightly bowed and the teeth are bent completely flat (I think someone got frustrated and tried to jam them into a few post holes.... but, I wouldn't know who.)
So, what do you think.... should I straighten the teeth and shaft... replace the handle and weld on some teeth? Would it be worth it to try to mount a fishy tail onto it? Or, would I be better off just selling it to Cracker Barrel as a wall hanger?
A good cast head with drive in teeth is the only way to go!
Genius (learned alot)
love the videos!!
THAT makes our day!
You guys have All the gear. We use a heated pressure washer and clean the hell out of the auger propane torch to dry. Be for any work. Typical build up any wear with 2 mig welders one with fill other mig with bare wire. Our augers look like Spiderman puked on it with all the webbings. Once completed we coat it with fluid film and a wax coating that hardens same wax used to incase asbestos. Keeps them protected for a bit longer believe it or not.
That's a cool idea!
2:38 Why do I feel like this is a que for jokes?
Face palm
Those spade teeth are totally useless here. Carbide bullet teeth are the only way to go. I like to pressure clean the auger first then use electrolysis to de-rust the tooth pockets if necessary.The screw in pilot nits often require a torch to loosen up.
We have augers with both square and round carbide but only use them in solid rock. They work poorly in dirt. For hard frozen soil and asphalt, we replace the teeth Dan was installing in the video with carbide a carbide version. The difference is about $12/tooth. Almost all winter we use the carbide version to auger frozen soil and they do much better than the round bullet teeth.
I don't want my head coming off, so I use a fresh rubber every time.
Safety first.