Funny, he might have read the manual or just clicked through the menus on the charger and set his own (over-)current or (under-)voltage protection limits. However, without setting it up, it'll use its default values, which were clearly too high for the PSU. The charger smoking itself is another thing, that's weak, I agree. Still, human error was the reason. Actually, he must have edited them to even allow such high input current. By default, it's limited to 25A input with 10V or 11V voltage limit.
@@nexus665 but why would you allow it as an desinger of the charger to overload it. That would be just like your cooking stove with an turbo mode which would burn the cable's inside. And then recommend to not use it too long. So probaly just to make it fail and make money because you have to buy a new one. If your not good with electronics tho.
Nope, freeze frame at 1:25 and take a closer look. The 82.3A is under the output section, the input amperage is specified for 10A @ 110v near the top of the label. Interestingly, there is no 240v specification despite the label's autoranging claim (or is that only for frequency?).
@@davidstech1445 take a closer look. There are 3 lines for input levels. For 100V, for 110-120, and for 200-240. The maximum output current for the DPS-800GB plugged into a normal 110 wall outlet is 69.9 amps. (right in the middle) . When you see the input current of 6.7 amps, you've found the specs for how it operates on 200-240 volts.
Regardless of input and output the unit should be programmed not to go outside its own specifications and break itself. Revolectrix rave about how advanced this charger is on their webpage, but clearly it's power monitoring is inadequate.
I agree. I obviously have no access to the owner's manual, but unless the manual specifically tells you to limit certain parameters, it should be smart enough to protect itself, especially at the $300 price point. Call em up and tell em they suk.
WTF man, why you blaming the power supply, it was your mistake, you put too much pressure on the charger.. it had to boost the voltage to twice the amount and push enormous amount of current through it..That powersupply would have easily handled it all
Correct. The PS done its job right. Datasheet Charger: Continuous rated output of 1344W @ 26.35VDC (up to 33.6V) or 612W at 12VDC input voltage Input voltage 10 - 32V Input current 1A to 60A with reverse polarity protection You should have used a higher voltage.
@shiftew leite ; @ isi pisi : Agreed with you both. Runing such power means you need to take care of your hardware specifications, if you don't, well, it blows up. And want to add : If it was the supply which wasn't powerful enough the charger would have detected it dans stopped it itself.
Yeah i had so much respect for this dude,until he started click-baiting, This kind of stuff really throws off integrity of someone, these supplies are made for server purposes and are really powerful. a)Not all 1344W are being outputted at 12volt rail, they are being split between two rails. b)The charger is the one that blew up (not powersupply). c)Why was he going over-specs on the charger in the first place. The wires are weak and small, the connection is janky,he is obviously running everything over its specification *LETS BLAME 12DOLLAR POWER SUPPLY*
Yeah no problem with those psus. The charger is the problem. That psu can easily push 1300W continues all day long! I run them myself but you need to series 2 of those psus to get 24v or higher. That RC charger is pretty easy to brake. I have seen many to die due to above issue where you run to low input voltage. They have no protection against it im afraid...
Yeah,they are not made to boost the output let alone double it at such high current, i think they are not even meant to boost output at all..at least that is not recommended
You don't seem to know much about Mosfets eh? You can get the newer version with lower resistance. Its the IRFB3077 It'll run cooler also. And if you want the whole thing to run more efficiently you will have to raise the power supply voltage.
It's not always that simple you know. Just simply grabbing a newer mosfet that has a lower RDSon will not always benefit you as the gate drivers for said mosfets can be tuned to the specific FET's gate charge and turn on time, if you can find a FET with very similar or identical specs than yes probably it will improve performance. Nonetheless I don't think replacing the FET's will fix this charger as usually failures like such tend to end in a cascade of other failures.
The mosfets were 3 in parallel, so @60A they should be only handling 20A each. They should easily have been able to cope with that. The charger should limit the input current if it knows it can't handle it. Could try adding a few more fets in parallel if they could be heatsinked!
@@ahaveland yeah at full 60A and typical RDSon they should have only been generating 4W of heat (60^2×0.0011 = 3.96) which is nothing especially with how large of a heatsink they where on. Even at max RDSon it would only be only 5W so still quite low.
Think the spike of the power supply will not help to, rememer its a switced output, and not steady...the more you load it up to its max current, the more ripple...< and boosting 30 amps 24 volts out of 12 v makes the harger work hard to.. !
@@MrBugsier5 well dear lord I sure hope the ripple doesn't get high enough to kill a charger with a max input of 36V if this was meant to power a far more sensitive server computer lol. But yeah thinking about it more the PSU could have definitely contributed to the death of the charger, wish he had the output of it on an oscilloscope to see the ripple.
Unfortunately that was 100% not the Power supply. Please don't dump it. You can most likely steal a mosfet from one of the hoverboard BMS. Check the numbers of them. I use them to repair do some modding on my ebikes. I use a similar server power supply to run everything including my chargers, 3d printer and everything automotive and they are as robust as power supplies get. Not only strong but extremely efficient. They are meant to run very expensive servers and are put out of service just as a precautionary. I'd trust them over most power supplies. Our 120v rating is lower than their 220v rating. It is rated 12.15 V at 65.8 A max on the 12v rail. That is 799.47 W max and not continuous. Last I saw, it was running at 12.9 V at 60.3 A. That is 776.58 Watts which is very close to the 800 max. The power supplies only give out what's demanded. It was running at nearly max but your charger asked for more than it could actually handle and died.
There are a lot of comments stating that the power supply was over-load. I would partially agree with them, however I think a bigger problem is if you want to run the charger at higher wattages you would be better off using a higher voltage supply to cut down on the amount of current you need to draw to hit those wattages. Everything will run cooler and more efficient, especially when the charger doesn't have to step the voltage up.
"To take advantage of PowerLab 8’s full power capability, the power source should be 26.35V DC (higher voltage does not improve output power), and capable of delivering a minimum of 60A to PowerLab 8’s input" factory manual if u supply 12V the charger has to do twice work or even more to achieve desired 6S charging. And THAT IS why it blew up ;-)
You're not wrong, but not only was he running it at 100% rated current, but he had both device exhaust fans aimed at each other! Yikes. From personal experience I limit the PowerLab input current to 40A, just judging by the temperatures the cables reach. Usually 25A. Keep in mind this is a hobby RC charger; using it for Tesla modules is heavy duty indeed and mechanical empathy should lead one to show some mercy and de-rate a bit.
You know the "$25" 1000W server power supply was worth $1200 when new. The server power supply is so sophisticated, it will always protect itself and will not get destroyed even if overloaded etc. and deliver the amps as demanded. Looks like your charger could not take the power being given. to it.
If you would have used two server power supplies making 24v as you mentioned wanting to do earlier in the video would that have prevented this failure of the charger mosfets? I'm assuming more volts and less current would have produced less heat, thus saving the charger, while still putting the same amps into the battery pack? Also, I couldn't find an update video and I'm curious to know if replacing the mosfets on the PL8 charger brought it back to life. Thanks.
If you can wipe away the soot, you may see the rest of thepart number. IRF is the first 3 digits of the part number the I and down arrow in a circle are for International Rectifier logo. Likely candidates are irfs4229 irfs4227 and IRFS4231 IRFS52N for high current and high voltage ratings, but your chip may be different.
I would attach a good heatsink and fan to the FETs. With an thermal adhesive. And a screw. To prevent it from coming loose. The FET rating depends on how its used. They are pulse ratings and continuous ratings. I like to double the current and voltage capacity. Keep it well over what I'm planning for the max it will see.
Watch out man, if you get 2 of those you cannot necessarily put them in series to get 24v as many of them are mains earth referenced (0v is at ground potential) so if you connect the 12 output to the 0v of the next you are just shorting the supply so you will get a 80A 12V arc that would be dangerous.
that's why you isolate the dc board from ground/chassis when you put them in series. along with zener diode from neg. to chassis on floating power supply if dc circuit goes bad.
You should check out the iCharger 4010 Duo. It can charge at 70A and up to 20S. It is built for 60A input peak. Also, make sure the server PSUs negative output is not connected to ground. If it is then you Can Not connect two of them in series without rebuilding. This is because it is a dead short from the positive of the first PSU to chassi ground on the 2nd PSU, out to AC ground of the 2nd PSU and then back in via AC ground to the negative DC of the first PSU. Rebuilding it means opening it and finding all the points on the DC side that are connected to ground and disconnecting them. I did this to 4 Dell 1000w PSUs, it was quite simple and I can now output 48V at 4000W.
Hi Jehu The charger is rated at 612W with a 12V input which is 60A as you demonstrated. But I would never run any electrical device much above 75% of it's maximum rating.
You should be safe running it as is if you dont push the input current over 40A, for running it at higher output power you would need to modify the psu to supply higher voltage (sometimes there is a trimmer inside that you can turn) or get another psu and wire them in series but you would have to isolate them from the mains ground (isolating transformer with 1:1: ratio)
Jehu, don't connect the two power supplies together even if you keep the cases apart. Most of those supplies have their ground/negative connected to real ground/earth. That means to connect two in parallel, you have to modify it internally and isolate the ground from the earth-ed case. Please read up.
Hi, great video, I love the stuff you are building. These power supplies are incredible, I think the supply just killed the charger, because it was able to deliver such high amps... it wasn't its fault. And I don't think the mosfet were bad in your charger, but probably they aren't that efficient when boosting, and if the fets aren't driven with enough power, they spent to much time in high resistant "mode" and heating up. But just a short look at datasheet in your video: 160A, about 3mOhm Ron is pretty impressive... But boosting is always less efficient than stepping down, in my opinion
Server power supplies are built for reliability and efficiency, they are excellent choices for power high power devices. It is not the fault of your power supply. It is the charger. I myself burnt a 1000w 30a turnigy charger by running it at 12v hitting input current limits at 50a constantly. Not running it out of spec mind you, but the manufacturers never intended for these devices to be used like that. Although I still dont think the end user should be held liable for use that is technically in specification. It's a good idea to run higher input voltages and not hit maximum current all the time.
40 Amp charger running at 60 Amps = recipe for disaster, i am so glad you were stood over it or we wouldn't be seeing much of you for the next month or so...
as a previous comment said IRFB3077 should do just fine, also in a situation like this it is good practice to replace all of the mosfets in the bridge as they may look fine on the surface but, it is almost a sure thing that they have some damage
you should also measure the amps going into the charger from the supply all charging units have a max input current rating. You were doing 60amps out but maybe 80amps in
Man O Man Jehu, Got to love those Server Power Supplies, I have a 750w and 2 x 1200w I use in series to get 24V when I use my RC charger. But they are super powerful that is for sure!! Been sick for the past 5-6 weeks, but hoping to be back soon! Just checking my channel and all the cool video I have missed today, hoping to play catch up. Hoping to feel better soon and hoping to be back on your facebook page also. I miss all my friends over there around the world!! Hope all is well down there!! njfulwider5
Question re charging 18650 for capacity test measurement purposes only (before putting them into use) Do you take them all the way down to 2.50 and all the way up to 4.20 or do you have have margins of safety even when testing?
Ive got sky rc multi out put quatro b6 320w charger ,, is that power supply to powerfull for that ? im charging 7 and 11 v lipos 4 at a time im using a pc power supply at the moment but it wont run it, Thanks whitey.
What's the issue with the two PSU cases touching each other? Chassis earth is not the same thing as electrical GND. If the chassis touch each other it shouldn't matter, because earth ground is the same in every mains socket.
In each server power supply the DC negative is directly connected to the chassis. therefore if you connect the positive of the first to the negative of the second (i.e. connect them in series) then touch both cases together, then you have effectively connected the positive of the first power supply directly to its own negative, and a big BANG!
You are showing thousands in-stock on Mouser. They are just the lead-free versions. Datasheets are your friend. If you read the datasheet, it explains what the PBF means.
It was the charger's control scheme truly to blame. Even one of those MOSFETs are capable of 120A by themselves if they were being driven by a clean square wave instead of whatever sloping signal cooked one at effectively one sixth its rating because it didn't switch on fast enough and the drain-to-source resistance was too high.
Why do we have to insulate the two psu's. is that only if you run them in 24v. The server I got mine out of had two of these psu's in tadem touching each other.
if the charger has input current measuring like it does it should definitely be able to limit input current. and for $300 its a big let down that it does not have that safety feature. they should have fixed this in their software. its assembled poorly they stuck kapton tape to the heatsinc then pressed the mosfets against them with some thermal paste. the charger should have directly connected the largest power dissipating mosfet directly to the heatsinc with a 3m bolt then used glass insulators on the other two mosfets if they too need to dissipate a lot of heat, if not then it would be acceptable to use the kapton tape method only on them. thermal monitoring should be used on the heatsinc to cut power incase the cooling fails from either a fan failure, hot environment or blocked airflow. for $300 it should be nearly impossible to kill this thing
Definitely not the fault of the power supply. You're likely way over the duty cycle for the charger. Increasing voltage is a task that creates a lot of heat. - I'd series up 2 car/motorcycle batteries to get 24 volts into your charger. (classic battery charger to the lead acid batts)
This was the best and I don't even know most of the technical stuff he's talking about. Either he's a genius or ......not. but I'll be sticking to my low power and overpriced rc spec power supply....
For that $$$ the charger should have thermal shutdown built in. But, yeah, as others said you passed the thermal design limits and released the magic blue smoke. Probably not a good idea to charge from a supply significantly lower than the battery voltage. V1*I1 = V2*I2 + losses.
Wrong, actually. The INPUT current to the charger was 60 amps - the charger is rated for 40 amps maximum on the OUTPUT side. Outputting 40a at 20v requires 800w of power - but that same 800w at 12v is 60 amps of current. In fact, if you check the users manual for this charger, it specifically states (on page 27) that the power supply used should be capable of delivering a MINIMUM of 60 amps to the Powerlab 8's input. The fact that this charger failed when used with the minimum recommended power supply amperage is absolutely the manufacturer's fault, not the user's. Edit: here's a link to the manual, see for yourself - www.revolectrix.com/support_docs/item_1377.pdf
did you ever get the charger fixed? and did you try it again with 2 power supplies? and did you end up blowing the charger again? i am thinking of seriesing 2 power supplies for 24 volts and i dont want to blow the charger so i want to make sure that the fault was just undervolting the input.
Sorry but I have the newer Powerlab8 Touch and it is an awesome charger! You cant run something so far out of spec and expect it to last.. if it was a higher voltage, then the charger may have had a chance. Also, Progressive RC is a great place to get chargers/ supplies from
He didn't run it out of spec, though. The OUTPUT current of this charger is 40a, the input has to be higher. In fact, the user's manual for this charger specifically states that the power supply used should be able to supply a MINIMUM of 60 amps of current. See page 27: www.revolectrix.com/support_docs/item_1377.pdf
1.I would buy a tesla module like that too, but how do I use it in Chicagos cold temps in winter??? Like -5F, what will happen? Any ideas? 2. He limited charger output to 25amps how come it went to 30 on its own? Chinese made I guess?
The IRFB3306GPbF from Digi-Key appears to be the correct replacement. The G and P signify lead and halogen free, not sure about the bF. I would be suspicious of the ones ordered from China. Good luck with the repair!
The quest for faster, more POWAAAH... You definitely have the 60 Amp version. Maybe you should have gone for the 160A version since your charger's mosfets are the weak link? Higher capacity mosfets will heat up less ==>more efficient. Clearly, your needs exceed your $150 charger's ability with that server power supply. I would order the higher capacity ones, for safety's sake. You weren't over 60A but for seconds, right? Fix it once and save yourself trouble down the road since an extra week of waiting and a few more dollars is worth it IMO.
there is no such thing as different versions of the same mosfet the 60A he was talking about were continuous amps which he was pushing thru them and you never want to run musfets at 100% of their rating. The 160A is just their rating for peak current i.e. if you connect and inductive load and the current peaks at 160A they should survive it and continue working
One thing I've learned the BAD way about most of the Chinesium Boost Converters. When they list a Power Rating like say 10 Amps they're referring to INPUT Power not Usable Out Put Power.
hey watch my videos on how to isolate the server power supplies. DO NOT just isolate the outside cases, it is not good to disconnect the ground to the mains side. you might want to add some nice low ESR capacitors onto the power supply rails, normally they are plugged into the motherboards which at least double up the capacitance, that would help especially on the high end (which at 120v input is only 69.9A output) I really dont think it was the fault of the power supply you just took your charger to its max and the mosfet it had wasnt load balanced right, defective, or didnt have enough thermal paste. thanks for sharing! link to my PSU isolation video: th-cam.com/video/M4wOFHAjR5U/w-d-xo.html
This is a part from International Rectifier. This company merged with Infineon. So look for a replacement part from Infineon, as they have better efficiency anyway.
Lol, I was getting scared to sit in front of my monitor when that thing started to sound like jet engines... Doesn't the charger have max amp. limit exactly for this reason? 25 v * 60 amps is a little beyond the specified max... how come it doesn't limit it and rather catches on fire? :) (Why aren't there high amp chargers? WHy do I need a charger and then extra 12v precharger ? Confused about that)
You should have ordered a higher amp rated mosfets, if you want to run it at this voltage also as you were speaking about their amp ratinn and different versions, there is no such thing, the 160A max is rating for peak current not continuous current they can probably handle only 50A continuously and thats why one of them blew
Aaaand.... this is why I just bought a high current 24volt psu to run my charger off a DC-DC source.... instead of risking an expensive accident, or dangerous situation with a high power home-made battery pack.... nor will I blame the PSU if something I did goes wrong...
I'd expect this from a $30 Turnigy Charger, but not something like this. Maybe this is specified in the charger's manual, idk. But probably not, and it should have input current limiting.
I have a few things to mention, one being that I wouldn't trust those server PSU's if you got them used on eBay like I did. I've had two 750W ones sporadically die on me at very light loads and high loads of 500-600W after only a minute or so. Second that charger should have had OVC protection on the input rails, really poor design to be honest. It's also worth mentioning that simply replacing those mosfets will most likely not fix your charger as usually failures like this tend to have a cascade of other failures throughout the system. Hopefully replacing your FET's will, but it's hard to say. Also make sure to apply thermal compound to the FET's when re mounting.
@@NinoJoel what are you talking about? I didn't blame the server PSU for killing his charger, even though it could have contributed it's hard to say, I was only saying you should be careful with them as they can be sketchy. Also he was not operating the PSU outside of it's limits, he maxed it out at 720W ish and it stated a max of 850W at 120V AC input.
@@justinwiden wasn't ment that way. I mean the fact that he heavily overloads the charger and the Server Power supply also did not like the current he took from it. Yes it can do around 69 Amps at before it shuts off but he was at 61 Amps continues already. (Which I don't consider safe for longer periods on a used Power supply) The wires are also way to thin for these currents. It was more a complain about the Video since he basically puts the blame on the power supply while not reading any specifications.
@@justinwiden The mosfets melting I'd say was over current protection, lol. The RC charger max wattage rating output is 1344 / 36 max input voltage = 37.33 amps where he chose to input 60 amps to the rc charger. At 12V x 37.33A = 448 watts which I can assure you it would have survived. This is a case of pure operator error of a low IQ individual.
@jehugarcia Do you or any of your subs have a dead inverter? I have looked it up and have an ideal solution for your liquid cooling idea. I can modify the chassis and build the water block for you. I can film what I did and let everyone to copy it when you post it. I just need one or two dead inverters. I'll make sure anyone can do it. No special expensive tools. No risk of leaks because there is few joints. A plate of copper bent and folded on a 90 to replace the transistor rail slipped through a slot in the chassis top to bring the heat to the outside. The top sanded down flat so the plate can be glued to the aluminum with thermal adhesive and screwed or riveted down. Don't use 1/2 inch copper and all those fittings that can leak. They aren't meant to be moved they fail over time even if you do get it right. Use pilot light copper or refrigerant copper tubing.1/4 or 3/8 tubing. Switch back the tubing on the plate and solder it to the plate after you have fit the plate to the chassis. All this fed into a transmission cooler with a large PC chassis fan on it would would very well.
And power lab 8 is software limited to 60 amps input...... lotta comments here that do not know anything about cellpro pl8 and the 1344watts is 40 amps at 8s.....
Why blame the power supply???? That doesn't make any sense you just pushed the charger way to far. Kinda weird for a guy that uploads electric stuff for years...
It's going to take a few weeks to get them and when you DO get them they will be fake. Just warning you Jehu! You might as well just replace them with something like IRF1405PBF or IRFB3077
Love your videos, but don't have 4 hours. I know video editing is VERY time consuming, but why don't you give an option to view an edited version. Just a thought.
i had a 100A server psu it went bang i have no idea why but i was running a 240w car amp at max load then it went bang so its possible the psu blew up due to overheating lol oh well my bad
LOL 250 amps drawn at 10 amps is 25 hours to discharge 250/10 = 25, jus thought I would throw that out there for those that do not know what an amp hour is, why it's called an amp hour and how basic math works lol. It's the rate at which the battery will deplete if run at 1 am for 1 hour. In his case if run at 1 amp per hour his system will run for 250 hours.
Also, you HAVE to run this charger at 24 plus volts if you going to push 1000 continuous.. it says right in the manual that it is limited to ~600watts at 12volts.. Jehu was at ~ 720watts when it blew.. I know this charger well cause I use the newer version (Powerlab8 Touch) almost every day for my lipos for RC
That Power supply is just fine. The problem is with the shitty charger design and maybe even fake mosfets. It uses only three mosfets in parallel. Each of those mosfets is rated for 230W absolute max each so 3 x 230W = 690W you are running it at 771W (th-cam.com/video/0bAiPZDwC9g/w-d-xo.html) so even if they are original mosfets its too much power for them. That charger shouldn't have allowed and hence tried to use that much power. I'm guessing you never got it close to using that much before. They should have designed it to use 4 mosfets to have a little extra capacity at least. Second point is that Mouser showed two alternative mosfets which would probably have been fine - you'd need to check the datasheets. The main difference was the drain source resistance which was LOWER, this means they dissipate less power for a given current (power = I x I x R). Did you ever fix this? I think if you'd be fine so long as you limit the max power to 500-550w (i.e 40-45Amps).
I think the Power Lab Duo 8 could do what you were trying to do... I have the standard PL-8 just like yours .. I see you have the PC interlink for it so you can go in and change stuff in the software.. I was told by one of the Compass Heli Team guys to run a max of 50amps out on the unit with a 24 volt input….. I guess now I know why now. I did call the company about using a 36 volt input . . . . and asked why it was setup for a 32 volt input... They said NO !!!! can't use a 36 volt input and he could not say why it was designed for a MAX 32 volt input. If you want MORE POWER !!! just pick up a duo-PL8 and use a 32 volt input. They are the best charger money can buy.
OHH I forgot you can add another PL-8 to yours and run one as a Master unit as well.... I think that is what the PL-8 is just two PL-8's installed in one case all put together
Hello, about the 32V Input design, it's often to handle the fluctuations of the supply. I designed some cards myself and had to correctly design what can happen on the input. For example some cheap 24V converters still have high and low peaks at 50Hz (or 60Hz depends where you are located) and often can result of 24V nominal but with peaks up to 32; 33V, because they have not enough smooth by capacitance or just basic FBRD without any regulation compensations at the conversion stage.
Please don't connect your power supplies in series, it's really a bad idea. Switching power supply require some feedback on the load, and don't perform well at all in series. Avoid burning your house ;)
Its not a 1000w power supply. We are in the states so unless you're running it on a 220v line, the max output of the supply is 69.5amps. I own an RC charge lead company www.PunchedRC.com and would recommend you get rid of those xt60 connectors and go straight into the pack with 10awg and get some better connectors to the pack itself. All those connectors are doing is creating resistance and heat. The XT90 on the power supply is fine, or you could also go with an EC5. If I had to make a guess the mosfet that popped may also have not had proper thermal compound to the heat sink and you were really pushing that chargers capability. I really hope that you didnt pay $300 for it. If your spending that much money, you would be better off with an iCharger 4010 thats good to charge up to 10s at 40amps.
The power supply didn't destroy the charger. You overloaded the charger. Piece of junk since the software in it didn't limit the input current.
Damn, even my $15 B6 clone automatically limit the output when the input is too low. Way to go, Revolectrix.
Funny, he might have read the manual or just clicked through the menus on the charger and set his own (over-)current or (under-)voltage protection limits. However, without setting it up, it'll use its default values, which were clearly too high for the PSU. The charger smoking itself is another thing, that's weak, I agree. Still, human error was the reason. Actually, he must have edited them to even allow such high input current. By default, it's limited to 25A input with 10V or 11V voltage limit.
@@nexus665 but why would you allow it as an desinger of the charger to overload it. That would be just like your cooking stove with an turbo mode which would burn the cable's inside. And then recommend to not use it too long.
So probaly just to make it fail and make money because you have to buy a new one. If your not good with electronics tho.
InstaBlaster.
The output of 82.3A is for an input of 200-240V
Nope, freeze frame at 1:25 and take a closer look. The 82.3A is under the output section, the input amperage is specified for 10A @ 110v near the top of the label. Interestingly, there is no 240v specification despite the label's autoranging claim (or is that only for frequency?).
Max 1000 W is only like 5A from wall.
Holy shit, u guys need some help with this....
@@davidstech1445 take a closer look. There are 3 lines for input levels. For 100V, for 110-120, and for 200-240. The maximum output current for the DPS-800GB plugged into a normal 110 wall outlet is 69.9 amps. (right in the middle) . When you see the input current of 6.7 amps, you've found the specs for how it operates on 200-240 volts.
Regardless of input and output the unit should be programmed not to go outside its own specifications and break itself. Revolectrix rave about how advanced this charger is on their webpage, but clearly it's power monitoring is inadequate.
I agree. I obviously have no access to the owner's manual, but unless the manual specifically tells you to limit certain parameters, it should be smart enough to protect itself, especially at the $300 price point. Call em up and tell em they suk.
Well it does say *lab* in its name, doesn't it? :D
WTF man, why you blaming the power supply, it was your mistake, you put too much pressure on the charger.. it had to boost the voltage to twice the amount and push enormous amount of current through it..That powersupply would have easily handled it all
Correct. The PS done its job right.
Datasheet Charger:
Continuous rated output of 1344W @ 26.35VDC (up to 33.6V) or 612W at 12VDC input voltage
Input voltage 10 - 32V
Input current 1A to 60A with reverse polarity protection
You should have used a higher voltage.
@shiftew leite ; @ isi pisi :
Agreed with you both. Runing such power means you need to take care of your hardware specifications, if you don't, well, it blows up.
And want to add : If it was the supply which wasn't powerful enough the charger would have detected it dans stopped it itself.
Yeah i had so much respect for this dude,until he started click-baiting, This kind of stuff really throws off integrity of someone, these supplies are made for server purposes and are really powerful.
a)Not all 1344W are being outputted at 12volt rail, they are being split between two rails.
b)The charger is the one that blew up (not powersupply).
c)Why was he going over-specs on the charger in the first place.
The wires are weak and small, the connection is janky,he is obviously running everything over its specification
*LETS BLAME 12DOLLAR POWER SUPPLY*
Yeah no problem with those psus. The charger is the problem. That psu can easily push 1300W continues all day long! I run them myself but you need to series 2 of those psus to get 24v or higher. That RC charger is pretty easy to brake. I have seen many to die due to above issue where you run to low input voltage. They have no protection against it im afraid...
Yeah,they are not made to boost the output let alone double it at such high current, i think they are not even meant to boost output at all..at least that is not recommended
You don't seem to know much about Mosfets eh? You can get the newer version with lower resistance.
Its the IRFB3077
It'll run cooler also.
And if you want the whole thing to run more efficiently you will have to raise the power supply voltage.
It's not always that simple you know. Just simply grabbing a newer mosfet that has a lower RDSon will not always benefit you as the gate drivers for said mosfets can be tuned to the specific FET's gate charge and turn on time, if you can find a FET with very similar or identical specs than yes probably it will improve performance. Nonetheless I don't think replacing the FET's will fix this charger as usually failures like such tend to end in a cascade of other failures.
The mosfets were 3 in parallel, so @60A they should be only handling 20A each. They should easily have been able to cope with that.
The charger should limit the input current if it knows it can't handle it.
Could try adding a few more fets in parallel if they could be heatsinked!
@@ahaveland yeah at full 60A and typical RDSon they should have only been generating 4W of heat (60^2×0.0011 = 3.96) which is nothing especially with how large of a heatsink they where on. Even at max RDSon it would only be only 5W so still quite low.
Think the spike of the power supply will not help to, rememer its a switced output, and not steady...the more you load it up to its max current, the more ripple...< and boosting 30 amps 24 volts out of 12 v makes the harger work hard to.. !
@@MrBugsier5 well dear lord I sure hope the ripple doesn't get high enough to kill a charger with a max input of 36V if this was meant to power a far more sensitive server computer lol. But yeah thinking about it more the PSU could have definitely contributed to the death of the charger, wish he had the output of it on an oscilloscope to see the ripple.
Unfortunately that was 100% not the Power supply. Please don't dump it. You can most likely steal a mosfet from one of the hoverboard BMS. Check the numbers of them. I use them to repair do some modding on my ebikes. I use a similar server power supply to run everything including my chargers, 3d printer and everything automotive and they are as robust as power supplies get. Not only strong but extremely efficient. They are meant to run very expensive servers and are put out of service just as a precautionary. I'd trust them over most power supplies.
Our 120v rating is lower than their 220v rating. It is rated 12.15 V at 65.8 A max on the 12v rail. That is 799.47 W max and not continuous.
Last I saw, it was running at 12.9 V at 60.3 A. That is 776.58 Watts which is very close to the 800 max.
The power supplies only give out what's demanded. It was running at nearly max but your charger asked for more than it could actually handle and died.
There are a lot of comments stating that the power supply was over-load. I would partially agree with them, however I think a bigger problem is if you want to run the charger at higher wattages you would be better off using a higher voltage supply to cut down on the amount of current you need to draw to hit those wattages. Everything will run cooler and more efficient, especially when the charger doesn't have to step the voltage up.
you can open up those server PSUs and dial the voltage
down slightly to meet your needs.
I know it's an old video, but looked like the PS shroud and the iMac touched? wrong earth potential?
"To take advantage of PowerLab 8’s full power capability, the power source should be
26.35V DC (higher voltage does not improve output power), and capable of delivering a
minimum of 60A to PowerLab 8’s input"
factory manual
if u supply 12V the charger has to do twice work or even more to achieve desired 6S charging. And THAT IS why it blew up ;-)
True, nonetheless it should have had protection systems in place to prevent failures like this, poor design.
Justin W, Exactly this.
You're not wrong, but not only was he running it at 100% rated current, but he had both device exhaust fans aimed at each other! Yikes. From personal experience I limit the PowerLab input current to 40A, just judging by the temperatures the cables reach. Usually 25A. Keep in mind this is a hobby RC charger; using it for Tesla modules is heavy duty indeed and mechanical empathy should lead one to show some mercy and de-rate a bit.
You know the "$25" 1000W server power supply was worth $1200 when new. The server power supply is so sophisticated, it will always protect itself and will not get destroyed even if overloaded etc. and deliver the amps as demanded. Looks like your charger could not take the power being given. to it.
False. That model was never $1200 from HP or a reputable dealer. The rest of your points are still valid, though.
@@templebrown7179 ok, how much was it then?
If you would have used two server power supplies making 24v as you mentioned wanting to do earlier in the video would that have prevented this failure of the charger mosfets? I'm assuming more volts and less current would have produced less heat, thus saving the charger, while still putting the same amps into the battery pack?
Also, I couldn't find an update video and I'm curious to know if replacing the mosfets on the PL8 charger brought it back to life. Thanks.
If you can wipe away the soot, you may see the rest of thepart number. IRF is the first 3 digits of the part number the I and down arrow in a circle are for International Rectifier logo. Likely candidates are irfs4229 irfs4227 and IRFS4231 IRFS52N for high current and high voltage ratings, but your chip may be different.
I would attach a good heatsink and fan to the FETs. With an thermal adhesive. And a screw. To prevent it from coming loose. The FET rating depends on how its used. They are pulse ratings and continuous ratings. I like to double the current and voltage capacity. Keep it well over what I'm planning for the max it will see.
That humaseal stuff comes of with toluene. A black light flashlight will allow you to see where the humaseal is or isn't.
Watch out man, if you get 2 of those you cannot necessarily put them in series to get 24v as many of them are mains earth referenced (0v is at ground potential) so if you connect the 12 output to the 0v of the next you are just shorting the supply so you will get a 80A 12V arc that would be dangerous.
that's why you isolate the dc board from ground/chassis when you put them in series. along with zener diode from neg. to chassis on floating power supply if dc circuit goes bad.
You should check out the iCharger 4010 Duo. It can charge at 70A and up to 20S.
It is built for 60A input peak.
Also, make sure the server PSUs negative output is not connected to ground.
If it is then you Can Not connect two of them in series without rebuilding. This is because it is a dead short from the positive of the first PSU to chassi ground on the 2nd PSU, out to AC ground of the 2nd PSU and then back in via AC ground to the negative DC of the first PSU.
Rebuilding it means opening it and finding all the points on the DC side that are connected to ground and disconnecting them.
I did this to 4 Dell 1000w PSUs, it was quite simple and I can now output 48V at 4000W.
Hi Jehu
The charger is rated at 612W with a 12V input which is 60A as you demonstrated. But I would never run any electrical device much above 75% of it's maximum rating.
Nice to see that extreme test since I have that same setup. Hope you are able to fix it, it is an excellent charger and would be sad to just waste it.
You should be safe running it as is if you dont push the input current over 40A, for running it at higher output power you would need to modify the psu to supply higher voltage (sometimes there is a trimmer inside that you can turn) or get another psu and wire them in series but you would have to isolate them from the mains ground (isolating transformer with 1:1: ratio)
Jehu, don't connect the two power supplies together even if you keep the cases apart. Most of those supplies have their ground/negative connected to real ground/earth. That means to connect two in parallel, you have to modify it internally and isolate the ground from the earth-ed case. Please read up.
Go for IRFZ44 which much easier to find.
Hi, great video, I love the stuff you are building. These power supplies are incredible, I think the supply just killed the charger, because it was able to deliver such high amps... it wasn't its fault. And I don't think the mosfet were bad in your charger, but probably they aren't that efficient when boosting, and if the fets aren't driven with enough power, they spent to much time in high resistant "mode" and heating up. But just a short look at datasheet in your video: 160A, about 3mOhm Ron is pretty
impressive...
But boosting is always less efficient than stepping down, in my opinion
Server power supplies are built for reliability and efficiency, they are excellent choices for power high power devices. It is not the fault of your power supply. It is the charger. I myself burnt a 1000w 30a turnigy charger by running it at 12v hitting input current limits at 50a constantly. Not running it out of spec mind you, but the manufacturers never intended for these devices to be used like that. Although I still dont think the end user should be held liable for use that is technically in specification.
It's a good idea to run higher input voltages and not hit maximum current all the time.
IRFb3306 60V 110A, nice mosfet.
U dont want to connect switch mode psus that are not designed to be used in series in series ,they can burn out instantly or cause fire
40 Amp charger running at 60 Amps = recipe for disaster, i am so glad you were stood over it or we wouldn't be seeing much of you for the next month or so...
as a previous comment said IRFB3077 should do just fine, also in a situation like this it is good practice to replace all of the mosfets in the bridge as they may look fine on the surface but, it is almost a sure thing that they have some damage
Why shouldn't the grounding of two supplies touch ?
Thanks to You, I'm starting to understand a lot more about electricity! I love it when You experiment and blow up things! +1
Use those power supplies all the time. Going to have about 4 of them running the Xmas display lol
keep doing what u love bro. love the vidz!
Good video. Give us an update if you find the correct mosfet.
you should also measure the amps going into the charger from the supply all charging units have a max input current rating. You were doing 60amps out but maybe 80amps in
No I was doing 60A in 30A out
How are these Tesla 6s74p being battery managed for applications where the pack is kept as a module, 24v is already a decent form factor.
Man O Man Jehu, Got to love those Server Power Supplies, I have a 750w and 2 x 1200w I use in series to get 24V when I use my RC charger. But they are super powerful that is for sure!! Been sick for the past 5-6 weeks, but hoping to be back soon! Just checking my channel and all the cool video I have missed today, hoping to play catch up. Hoping to feel better soon and hoping to be back on your facebook page also. I miss all my friends over there around the world!!
Hope all is well down there!!
njfulwider5
Question re charging 18650 for capacity test measurement purposes only (before putting them into use)
Do you take them all the way down to 2.50 and all the way up to 4.20 or do you have have margins of safety even when testing?
Ive got sky rc multi out put quatro b6 320w charger ,, is that power supply to powerfull for that ? im charging 7 and 11 v lipos 4 at a time im using a pc power supply at the moment but it wont run it, Thanks whitey.
What's the issue with the two PSU cases touching each other? Chassis earth is not the same thing as electrical GND. If the chassis touch each other it shouldn't matter, because earth ground is the same in every mains socket.
In each server power supply the DC negative is directly connected to the chassis. therefore if you connect the positive of the first to the negative of the second (i.e. connect them in series) then touch both cases together, then you have effectively connected the positive of the first power supply directly to its own negative, and a big BANG!
Great video Mr Elon Garcia.
I couldn't have done it any better.
Keep up the experimenting.
You are showing thousands in-stock on Mouser. They are just the lead-free versions. Datasheets are your friend. If you read the datasheet, it explains what the PBF means.
It was the charger's control scheme truly to blame. Even one of those MOSFETs are capable of 120A by themselves if they were being driven by a clean square wave instead of whatever sloping signal cooked one at effectively one sixth its rating because it didn't switch on fast enough and the drain-to-source resistance was too high.
What about EV-Peak A9 for 2 tesla modules...? It will do the job well without burning!
It was your fault. you need higher voltage power supply. Like 24V 50 A. And anyway 60 Amper was more than this charger can hold.
😂 I love how much joy destroying your equipment brings you.
The power supply didnt destroy your charger.
Your charger was simply not worthy enough of the power -of the 6 infinity stones- supply.
Why do we have to insulate the two psu's. is that only if you run them in 24v. The server I got mine out of had two of these psu's in tadem touching each other.
if the charger has input current measuring like it does it should definitely be able to limit input current. and for $300 its a big let down that it does not have that safety feature. they should have fixed this in their software. its assembled poorly they stuck kapton tape to the heatsinc then pressed the mosfets against them with some thermal paste. the charger should have directly connected the largest power dissipating mosfet directly to the heatsinc with a 3m bolt then used glass insulators on the other two mosfets if they too need to dissipate a lot of heat, if not then it would be acceptable to use the kapton tape method only on them. thermal monitoring should be used on the heatsinc to cut power incase the cooling fails from either a fan failure, hot environment or blocked airflow. for $300 it should be nearly impossible to kill this thing
you could put a little higher current fets .
Definitely not the fault of the power supply. You're likely way over the duty cycle for the charger. Increasing voltage is a task that creates a lot of heat. - I'd series up 2 car/motorcycle batteries to get 24 volts into your charger. (classic battery charger to the lead acid batts)
This was the best and I don't even know most of the technical stuff he's talking about. Either he's a genius or ......not. but I'll be sticking to my low power and overpriced rc spec power supply....
For that $$$ the charger should have thermal shutdown built in. But, yeah, as others said you passed the thermal design limits and released the magic blue smoke. Probably not a good idea to charge from a supply significantly lower than the battery voltage. V1*I1 = V2*I2 + losses.
your mistake, the charger only could send 40 amps and you pushed it to 60
The charger was sending 32 amps. The 60 that you saw was the input.
Wrong, actually. The INPUT current to the charger was 60 amps - the charger is rated for 40 amps maximum on the OUTPUT side. Outputting 40a at 20v requires 800w of power - but that same 800w at 12v is 60 amps of current. In fact, if you check the users manual for this charger, it specifically states (on page 27) that the power supply used should be capable of delivering a MINIMUM of 60 amps to the Powerlab 8's input. The fact that this charger failed when used with the minimum recommended power supply amperage is absolutely the manufacturer's fault, not the user's.
Edit: here's a link to the manual, see for yourself - www.revolectrix.com/support_docs/item_1377.pdf
Pretty stupid smart charger for going above it's limits... Seems like lackluster testing to me!
did you ever get the charger fixed? and did you try it again with 2 power supplies? and did you end up blowing the charger again?
i am thinking of seriesing 2 power supplies for 24 volts and i dont want to blow the charger so i want to make sure that the fault was just undervolting the input.
that ps is capable of 100A @ 200-240v and 80a @ 100-120v, that is max output. no need to do that as he was only drawing in 30a from ps.
Sorry but I have the newer Powerlab8 Touch and it is an awesome charger! You cant run something so far out of spec and expect it to last.. if it was a higher voltage, then the charger may have had a chance. Also, Progressive RC is a great place to get chargers/ supplies from
He didn't run it out of spec, though. The OUTPUT current of this charger is 40a, the input has to be higher. In fact, the user's manual for this charger specifically states that the power supply used should be able to supply a MINIMUM of 60 amps of current. See page 27: www.revolectrix.com/support_docs/item_1377.pdf
1.I would buy a tesla module like that too, but how do I use it in Chicagos cold temps in winter??? Like -5F, what will happen? Any ideas?
2. He limited charger output to 25amps how come it went to 30 on its own? Chinese made I guess?
The IRFB3306GPbF from Digi-Key appears to be the correct replacement. The G and P signify lead and halogen free, not sure about the bF. I would be suspicious of the ones ordered from China. Good luck with the repair!
The quest for faster, more POWAAAH... You definitely have the 60 Amp version. Maybe you should have gone for the 160A version since your charger's mosfets are the weak link? Higher capacity mosfets will heat up less ==>more efficient. Clearly, your needs exceed your $150 charger's ability with that server power supply. I would order the higher capacity ones, for safety's sake. You weren't over 60A but for seconds, right? Fix it once and save yourself trouble down the road since an extra week of waiting and a few more dollars is worth it IMO.
there is no such thing as different versions of the same mosfet the 60A he was talking about were continuous amps which he was pushing thru them and you never want to run musfets at 100% of their rating.
The 160A is just their rating for peak current i.e. if you connect and inductive load and the current peaks at 160A they should survive it and continue working
What is a good 6S or 8S charger for such large capacities and custom charge end voltages?
It looks like the Revolectrix chargers are the only ones!
One thing I've learned the BAD way about most of the Chinesium Boost Converters. When they list a Power Rating like say 10 Amps they're referring to INPUT Power not Usable Out Put Power.
You're going to need to isolate those supplies or you will instantly short it connecting to another due to being Earth referenced.
Yes I mentioned that
Yeah I wrote my comment when you mentioned about putting them in series. Too much haste.
hey watch my videos on how to isolate the server power supplies. DO NOT just isolate the outside cases, it is not good to disconnect the ground to the mains side. you might want to add some nice low ESR capacitors onto the power supply rails, normally they are plugged into the motherboards which at least double up the capacitance, that would help especially on the high end (which at 120v input is only 69.9A output)
I really dont think it was the fault of the power supply you just took your charger to its max and the mosfet it had wasnt load balanced right, defective, or didnt have enough thermal paste.
thanks for sharing! link to my PSU isolation video: th-cam.com/video/M4wOFHAjR5U/w-d-xo.html
Have you tried contacting the manufacturer to see if they have the part instead of trying to buy up from China
This is a part from International Rectifier. This company merged with Infineon. So look for a replacement part from Infineon, as they have better efficiency anyway.
First rule....always tune for minimum smoke.
Lol, I was getting scared to sit in front of my monitor when that thing started to sound like jet engines... Doesn't the charger have max amp. limit exactly for this reason? 25 v * 60 amps is a little beyond the specified max... how come it doesn't limit it and rather catches on fire? :) (Why aren't there high amp chargers? WHy do I need a charger and then extra 12v precharger ? Confused about that)
These things happen. You did laugh like a "mad scientist" enjoying his synthesis for a bit. A like cause the struggle is real.
You should have ordered a higher amp rated mosfets, if you want to run it at this voltage also as you were speaking about their amp ratinn and different versions, there is no such thing, the 160A max is rating for peak current not continuous current they can probably handle only 50A continuously and thats why one of them blew
Magic smoke is out. Well done, well done
You might want check new Icharger X8. Very small, 30amps charge and 2AMPs balance! All those huge old metal brick chargers look like a joke now.
Defective I have been using cellpro at 30amps from 12volt car battery at the field for 5 years fma will fix it send it in.
Aaaand.... this is why I just bought a high current 24volt psu to run my charger off a DC-DC source.... instead of risking an expensive accident, or dangerous situation with a high power home-made battery pack.... nor will I blame the PSU if something I did goes wrong...
That's what you get for NOT listening to the dog. He started barking when you started it up :P "warning" "warning"
I liked your laughter, haha! 😄
I got 4 24v 7.5 amp chargers let me know if you need them
I love majic smoke videos
Wasn't it 60 amps at 60 volts?
The power supply is 12v and my battery is 24v
@@jehugarcia the rating of the mosphet I mean
I'd expect this from a $30 Turnigy Charger, but not something like this. Maybe this is specified in the charger's manual, idk. But probably not, and it should have input current limiting.
That power supply maybe can start a small car engine without the batteries?
I have a few things to mention, one being that I wouldn't trust those server PSU's if you got them used on eBay like I did. I've had two 750W ones sporadically die on me at very light loads and high loads of 500-600W after only a minute or so. Second that charger should have had OVC protection on the input rails, really poor design to be honest. It's also worth mentioning that simply replacing those mosfets will most likely not fix your charger as usually failures like this tend to have a cascade of other failures throughout the system. Hopefully replacing your FET's will, but it's hard to say. Also make sure to apply thermal compound to the FET's when re mounting.
@@NinoJoel what are you talking about? I didn't blame the server PSU for killing his charger, even though it could have contributed it's hard to say, I was only saying you should be careful with them as they can be sketchy. Also he was not operating the PSU outside of it's limits, he maxed it out at 720W ish and it stated a max of 850W at 120V AC input.
@@justinwiden wasn't ment that way.
I mean the fact that he heavily overloads the charger and the Server Power supply also did not like the current he took from it.
Yes it can do around 69 Amps at before it shuts off but he was at 61 Amps continues already.
(Which I don't consider safe for longer periods on a used Power supply)
The wires are also way to thin for these currents.
It was more a complain about the Video since he basically puts the blame on the power supply while not reading any specifications.
@@justinwiden The mosfets melting I'd say was over current protection, lol. The RC charger max wattage rating output is 1344 / 36 max input voltage = 37.33 amps where he chose to input 60 amps to the rc charger. At 12V x 37.33A = 448 watts which I can assure you it would have survived. This is a case of pure operator error of a low IQ individual.
Not psu related, lack of labeling on 300$ charger input caused damage.
That server PSU is likely bad. computer PSU's are sapose to run within + or - 5%. It should never reach over 12.6v
Im thinking replace them all at the same time
@jehugarcia Do you or any of your subs have a dead inverter? I have looked it up and have an ideal solution for your liquid cooling idea. I can modify the chassis and build the water block for you. I can film what I did and let everyone to copy it when you post it. I just need one or two dead inverters.
I'll make sure anyone can do it. No special expensive tools. No risk of leaks because there is few joints. A plate of copper bent and folded on a 90 to replace the transistor rail slipped through a slot in the chassis top to bring the heat to the outside. The top sanded down flat so the plate can be glued to the aluminum with thermal adhesive and screwed or riveted down. Don't use 1/2 inch copper and all those fittings that can leak. They aren't meant to be moved they fail over time even if you do get it right. Use pilot light copper or refrigerant copper tubing.1/4 or 3/8 tubing. Switch back the tubing on the plate and solder it to the plate after you have fit the plate to the chassis. All this fed into a transmission cooler with a large PC chassis fan on it would would very well.
And power lab 8 is software limited to 60 amps input...... lotta comments here that do not know anything about cellpro pl8 and the 1344watts is 40 amps at 8s.....
Why blame the power supply???? That doesn't make any sense you just pushed the charger way to far. Kinda weird for a guy that uploads electric stuff for years...
It's going to take a few weeks to get them and when you DO get them they will be fake. Just warning you Jehu! You might as well just replace them with something like IRF1405PBF or IRFB3077
Love your videos, but don't have 4 hours. I know video editing is VERY time consuming, but why don't you give an option to view an edited version. Just a thought.
get an icharger x6 that wont blow.
I will cry hard if this ever happened to my icharger 4010DUO.
8:40 is that popcorn?
Just replace all the mosfets. Don't just replace the blown mosfet
love this!!
i had a 100A server psu it went bang i have no idea why but i was running a 240w car amp at max load then it went bang so its possible the psu blew up due to overheating lol oh well my bad
LOL 250 amps drawn at 10 amps is 25 hours to discharge 250/10 = 25, jus thought I would throw that out there for those that do not know what an amp hour is, why it's called an amp hour and how basic math works lol. It's the rate at which the battery will deplete if run at 1 am for 1 hour. In his case if run at 1 amp per hour his system will run for 250 hours.
subtitle at 7:10
but the top of teh charger says 40A right there
yes, 10ma - 40amp. I suppose if you want to complain, you could argue it should not charge higher than 40amps.
lets be honest,
he was going to shoot for 80A
The 40A rating is on the output, not input: "Input current: 1A to 60A, software limited" taken from the specifications on their website
Also, you HAVE to run this charger at 24 plus volts if you going to push 1000 continuous.. it says right in the manual that it is limited to ~600watts at 12volts.. Jehu was at ~ 720watts when it blew.. I know this charger well cause I use the newer version (Powerlab8 Touch) almost every day for my lipos for RC
Nice smoke machine
That Power supply is just fine. The problem is with the shitty charger design and maybe even fake mosfets. It uses only three mosfets in parallel. Each of those mosfets is rated for 230W absolute max each so 3 x 230W = 690W you are running it at 771W (th-cam.com/video/0bAiPZDwC9g/w-d-xo.html) so even if they are original mosfets its too much power for them. That charger shouldn't have allowed and hence tried to use that much power. I'm guessing you never got it close to using that much before. They should have designed it to use 4 mosfets to have a little extra capacity at least.
Second point is that Mouser showed two alternative mosfets which would probably have been fine - you'd need to check the datasheets. The main difference was the drain source resistance which was LOWER, this means they dissipate less power for a given current (power = I x I x R).
Did you ever fix this? I think if you'd be fine so long as you limit the max power to 500-550w (i.e 40-45Amps).
I think the Power Lab Duo 8 could do what you were trying to do... I have the standard PL-8 just like yours .. I see you have the PC interlink for it so you can go in and change stuff in the software.. I was told by one of the Compass Heli Team guys to run a max of 50amps out on the unit with a 24 volt input….. I guess now I know why now.
I did call the company about using a 36 volt input . . . . and asked why it was setup for a 32 volt input... They said NO !!!! can't use a 36 volt input and he could not say why it was designed for a MAX 32 volt input.
If you want MORE POWER !!! just pick up a duo-PL8 and use a 32 volt input. They are the best charger money can buy.
OHH I forgot
you can add another PL-8 to yours and run one as a Master unit as well.... I think that is what the PL-8 is just two PL-8's installed in one case all put together
Hello, about the 32V Input design, it's often to handle the fluctuations of the supply. I designed some cards myself and had to correctly design what can happen on the input.
For example some cheap 24V converters still have high and low peaks at 50Hz (or 60Hz depends where you are located) and often can result of 24V nominal but with peaks up to 32; 33V, because they have not enough smooth by capacitance or just basic FBRD without any regulation compensations at the conversion stage.
Please don't connect your power supplies in series, it's really a bad idea. Switching power supply require some feedback on the load, and don't perform well at all in series. Avoid burning your house ;)
Its not a 1000w power supply. We are in the states so unless you're running it on a 220v line, the max output of the supply is 69.5amps. I own an RC charge lead company www.PunchedRC.com and would recommend you get rid of those xt60 connectors and go straight into the pack with 10awg and get some better connectors to the pack itself. All those connectors are doing is creating resistance and heat. The XT90 on the power supply is fine, or you could also go with an EC5. If I had to make a guess the mosfet that popped may also have not had proper thermal compound to the heat sink and you were really pushing that chargers capability. I really hope that you didnt pay $300 for it. If your spending that much money, you would be better off with an iCharger 4010 thats good to charge up to 10s at 40amps.