I ordered the molding catalog from Windsor and have spent many hours pouring over it. Yes, I am that geeky guy! I love house plan books, too, especially period pre-war house plans.
The importance of historic precedent finally made sense to me when my son's music teacher was explaining why he had to practice a difficult (seemingly unnecessary) technique. They explained that it took many musicians over hundreds of years and experiences to figure out how to do that technique better and better. Historic precedent isn't just some arbitrary rule that a grumpy old person made up. It's hundreds of years of knowledge and experience, slowly improving and making things better.
Brent I think this is one of your best vids yet (and I like them all)..very practical, easy to understand - and spoke to me personally. I'm decorating my new condo and trying to fight the drywall and builder-basic 3" mdf. I already installed 9" poplar Colonial Revival-ish baseboards and I'm stuck on door casing, specifically dressing up my front door - it's a wood fire door with the standard steel casing. The hallway/dining room entrance you showed would look lovely on the inside of my front door. Thank you for the inspiration and guidance.
I own a 2 bed, 1 bath one story built in 1982. Hollow-core mahogany doors & mahogany "picture frame" door & window casings... planning on buying new solid doors and changing to a 20's vintage simple casing of 1"× 4" with corner bead added to the outside. Trying to go with a simple 1920's Bungalow theme inside & out.
Love these molding videos. Would love you to explain the design language of the French moldings sometimes. I love em, but don’t really understand them. This video was a neat bridge between the ornate and the simple though. I do struggle to look at Versailles, for example, and then figure out how to use that language on something like a rural cottage. Plane of mastery to discover there, for sure, but it’s fun
I love it! I'm just getting ready to work on a door casing and was planing to taking it up to the crown molding...so glad to see I'm on the right track...this was very helpful.
Excellent video, as always. I find so few people on the internet who actually know more than I do about this sort of thing - your knowledge is truly inspiring. P.S. Our deck is finished. It's structurally sound (I think) and pretty damn ugly. My parents are delighted. I'm very bitter about the whole thing. They told me I can get a job and have my own house someday.
The video is excellent in explaining the importance of proper sized mouldings . Your examples make it very easy to understand the scale of the orders. Thank you !
Perfect timing and thank you for the video. A few months ago I decided to undertake redoing the trim in our house. I was disappointed with the available moulding profiles and decided to instead make all of my own. I’m making 9 different moldings with a shaper and power feeder and this video, along with several other ones from you, have validated my design decisions. Thank you and keep up the great work!
Hmm, I know it's just a catalog but at 10:17, I think the apron is too narrow. It's supposed to line up with the architrave above so the stool needs to be wider as well. Also, I like the idea of doing a tall frieze panel connecting the door architrave to the crown. I have 8ft ceilings (house built in 1993 when 8ft ceilings were common) and I think this would be ideal for this scenario because it allows you to elevate the door and still have room for crown on the ceiling without crowding and getting out of proportion. Also, I'd like to add that everyone should get a copy of How to Get Your House Right. If you don't have the ideal 10ft ceiling height to correctly follow the classic order, then there is a table in that book which documents which size mouldings you should use based on your ceiling height (8ft, 9ft, 10ft).
In our current house build (a custom spec for sale), we chose Andersen 200 Series windows. Since they don’t come with casing, I thought, “No problem! I’ll find a beautiful, thick moulding to frame them.” Well, nothing-and I mean *nothing*-was the 1" depth we needed to make it work. My husband suggested we go with brickmould, but even then, the windows stuck out past the standard brickmould you can get in stores. I even looked into having Versatex custom-make a 4" wide brickmould with a 1 1/4" depth. That would’ve been perfect, but it just wasn’t in the budget. The whole time, I kept asking, “Why isn’t this available as a standard option?” I just know they’d sell truckloads of it! So, to my heartbreak, we’re ending up with the brick butted right against the windows. It’s one of those little details that would have made such a difference, and it truly pains me to let it go.
Don't forget to at least do brick jack arches above each window. It's a detail that is skipped way too often that looks architecturally correct and looks much nicer.
This is such a helpful video, Brent! One of your best because you lay out the math so clearly. I feel like I can apply it in my home right away, so thanks! One question: what do you do in situations where the framing doesn’t allow for the full-width casing that’s needed? Are there adjustments that a master carpenter would use to shrink the molding but still tie it in, say, in a tight corner? Perhaps that’s a video topic? Thanks again!
The content is solid. The only issue i have is the monolithic casing. It is without a doubt a labor savings over historic multi-layered built-up. However its limiting in some applications. You you can do a lot with 3 peice casing that is not possible or more labor intensive on single casing, something as basic as a jackmiter. I agree its still better then 99.9% of what's available off the shelf. However at this level I want the absolute best for the application. Being able to adjust the width, mix profiles and carry details is the true benefit.
I don’t understand why people need off the shelf moldings. We couldn’t get Kuiken to ship non finger jointed wood so we just went down to the lumber mill picked out some nice rough poplar had a set of knives made and bam Greek revival moldings. Maybe cost us another $2k on our remodel. Definitely worth it.
How do you feel about veneered millwork? I'm thinking in the realm of being able to get the proportions correct but not have to spend as much on solid wood. I know there's some examples out there but I don't know if they are a decent representation for the masses to be able to get proper casings and millwork (not just door casings) loved to learn as well.
@@BrentHull Veneered is the wrong word. I meant laminated like plywood versus solid wood trim, 10:22 the piece looks to have horizontal glue lamination lines like its plywood or are my eyes just seeing things?
We have a 60s ranch and our problem is a lot (including front door) is right up against a wall. So all that fits are the smaller trims. So is it better or our only option to use the smaller casings or just rip the side against the wall down to fit?
Our Craftsman bungalow, built 1927, had original wooden windows and 4-1/4” trim around inside doors and windows. Sadly, a previous owner put in a picture window and replaced the trim to make the house look like a 1950-60s bungalow. We replaced the picture window with one in a style similar to what was there originally (but in vinyl as I hadn’t found your channel yet). My next step is to replace the ugly narrow interior trim and perhaps add crown moulding. Our ceilings are 8’5 and some areas/rooms are as small as 4’x 4’ Is that ceiling too low and rooms too small for crown molding?
Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. FYI, Crown wasn't an important molding in 1927. If you can get the trim returned to original you should be in great shape. Good luck.
Dear Mr Hull, I would like to ask you for advice.. I have a 9ft 4 inch (285 cm) tall room with 8ft 4 inch (255 cm) tall Windows and Openings (5 ft 3 in or 160 cm wide). I would like to case these but it's getting close to the ceiling as there is only about a foot of empty space to the ceiling .. how would you suggest tying it into the crown in the room? I would really like to make this space magical.
In this recent video, I tie the door to the ceiling with the frieze. The frieze (a flat board) over top of the door casing and under the crown. Good luck.
@@BrentHull Yes but my limited space above the opening violates the 1/5 size of the entablature so it's very tight to the ceiling with only 1 foot .. any suggestion what to do here so it does not look "funny" or forced?
I found the answer to my issue I hope in one of your older videos on th e build show “choosing the right classical Elements .. “ when you observe the Roman’s added a column base changing the proportions.. if I follow the Roman’s and not the Greeks I might be closer in proportions with my 1 foot entablature.. I guess I need to add a chair rail to the room. :) thank you !
Please, post a video about pulvinated friezes. There is not much info on the internet, seems no one remembers how to build it. Asked Kuiken, they don't have the option
Almost every house post Industrial Revolution in the Uk has one of 6 different mouldings for architrave. Almost all are 3/4” and widest is 3” generally. Obviously there are exceptions but the only nice door openings I see are in pre 1800 large houses. I do a lot of work in a Jacobean house that had a Georgian makeover that has some original wall panelling and beautiful elaborate door openings. It even has the original coats of arms carved into the wall panelling
@ makes a change from seeing the same 6 mouldings in almost every house! Watching your videos helps me to offer something most others can’t, so thank you
Kuiken Lumber or Windsorone is a start. I designed their molding lines. You can also fight, push your builder demand better. We need to push back against the crap.
Mr Hull probably cannot stand to see the mouldings on Home Depot, Lowes, or other sites. They are all the same. The few that are different are insanely overpriced for inferior materials even.
I live in the Netherlands and most door casings in newly built homes are disgustingly tasteless and barely functional. They are made of thin hollow metal and have no definition at all... There is no aspiration to create art or even just a good product
"the architrave was used historically as the term for door and window casing" I don't know which bit you Americans call the casing, but I know what an architrave is.
I ordered the molding catalog from Windsor and have spent many hours pouring over it. Yes, I am that geeky guy! I love house plan books, too, especially period pre-war house plans.
Nice. Thanks.
The importance of historic precedent finally made sense to me when my son's music teacher was explaining why he had to practice a difficult (seemingly unnecessary) technique. They explained that it took many musicians over hundreds of years and experiences to figure out how to do that technique better and better.
Historic precedent isn't just some arbitrary rule that a grumpy old person made up. It's hundreds of years of knowledge and experience, slowly improving and making things better.
Great analogy. Thanks for sharing.
Great video as usual! Best part is showing how to get measurements and also showing the examples versus just drawings.
Glad to hear it.
I don't know where to begin. What an incredible video. You packed so much into jest a few minutes. Thank you so much!
Ahhhhhhrrrrrrnnnmnnno! I'll just hire someone who knows this stuff. I'm 73 and my time left is too valuable.
Thanks so much.
So much amazing information in such a simple presentation, wow!! One of your best videos, thank you!!
Thanks!
Brent I think this is one of your best vids yet (and I like them all)..very practical, easy to understand - and spoke to me personally. I'm decorating my new condo and trying to fight the drywall and builder-basic 3" mdf. I already installed 9" poplar Colonial Revival-ish baseboards and I'm stuck on door casing, specifically dressing up my front door - it's a wood fire door with the standard steel casing. The hallway/dining room entrance you showed would look lovely on the inside of my front door. Thank you for the inspiration and guidance.
So glad it helped. Good luck!
I own a 2 bed, 1 bath one story built in 1982. Hollow-core mahogany doors & mahogany "picture frame" door & window casings... planning on buying new solid doors and changing to a 20's vintage simple casing of 1"× 4" with corner bead added to the outside.
Trying to go with a simple 1920's Bungalow theme inside & out.
Good luck!
Love these molding videos. Would love you to explain the design language of the French moldings sometimes. I love em, but don’t really understand them.
This video was a neat bridge between the ornate and the simple though. I do struggle to look at Versailles, for example, and then figure out how to use that language on something like a rural cottage. Plane of mastery to discover there, for sure, but it’s fun
The French blended their gothic with new classical ideals. Its unique.
Creating hierarchy, creating a beauty!
Proper molding do same as education on people.
Agreed. thx.
This is a great video. I'd like to have a little more time to see the different profiles and how the back fits on.
But dang, this is great stuff.
Ok
I love it! I'm just getting ready to work on a door casing and was planing to taking it up to the crown molding...so glad to see I'm on the right track...this was very helpful.
So glad it helped.
Excellent video, as always. I find so few people on the internet who actually know more than I do about this sort of thing - your knowledge is truly inspiring.
P.S.
Our deck is finished. It's structurally sound (I think) and pretty damn ugly. My parents are delighted. I'm very bitter about the whole thing. They told me I can get a job and have my own house someday.
haha, thx.
Fantastic information. Thanks so much for making this easy to understand.
Nice. Thanks.
The video is excellent in explaining the importance of proper sized mouldings . Your examples make it very easy to understand the scale of the orders. Thank you !
Glad to hear it. Cheers.
Completely agree with the 'power of mouldings' in architecture. Thanks!!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Perfect timing and thank you for the video. A few months ago I decided to undertake redoing the trim in our house. I was disappointed with the available moulding profiles and decided to instead make all of my own. I’m making 9 different moldings with a shaper and power feeder and this video, along with several other ones from you, have validated my design decisions. Thank you and keep up the great work!
Glad it helped!
Great information!!!!!
Thank you!
Hmm, I know it's just a catalog but at 10:17, I think the apron is too narrow. It's supposed to line up with the architrave above so the stool needs to be wider as well. Also, I like the idea of doing a tall frieze panel connecting the door architrave to the crown. I have 8ft ceilings (house built in 1993 when 8ft ceilings were common) and I think this would be ideal for this scenario because it allows you to elevate the door and still have room for crown on the ceiling without crowding and getting out of proportion. Also, I'd like to add that everyone should get a copy of How to Get Your House Right. If you don't have the ideal 10ft ceiling height to correctly follow the classic order, then there is a table in that book which documents which size mouldings you should use based on your ceiling height (8ft, 9ft, 10ft).
Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to continue our education.
Of course. Thanks for watching.
In our current house build (a custom spec for sale), we chose Andersen 200 Series windows. Since they don’t come with casing, I thought, “No problem! I’ll find a beautiful, thick moulding to frame them.” Well, nothing-and I mean *nothing*-was the 1" depth we needed to make it work. My husband suggested we go with brickmould, but even then, the windows stuck out past the standard brickmould you can get in stores.
I even looked into having Versatex custom-make a 4" wide brickmould with a 1 1/4" depth. That would’ve been perfect, but it just wasn’t in the budget. The whole time, I kept asking, “Why isn’t this available as a standard option?” I just know they’d sell truckloads of it!
So, to my heartbreak, we’re ending up with the brick butted right against the windows. It’s one of those little details that would have made such a difference, and it truly pains me to let it go.
I know that feeling; there’s one chance to get it right, and it just doesn’t happen. 🥴
My house was built with 200 series Andersen windows, still as good as new 42 years later!
My living room windows are exactly how you describe with the brick porch wall butted against them... not my ideal, but it is functional.
Don't forget to at least do brick jack arches above each window. It's a detail that is skipped way too often that looks architecturally correct and looks much nicer.
Yikes. So sorry.
OUTSTANDING : o .....
Thanks!
You crack me up Brent. 😂
Good. Thx.
An inspiration. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
THanks for watching.
2 1/8” colonial molding -“not only is it missed named it’s ugly and It terrible.“ 😂 agreed.
Agreed! THx.
Great video Brent!! I cant find anyone in Alberta that supplies Windsor or Kuiken so I love this idea to use a one-by and add a back band.
Have a local mill just make you a set of knives and run it. You hats what we did and were able to use solid poplar throughout.
Haven’t found anyone yet, save people who are in Ontario I think. Everywhere I’ve visited in Calgary has been disappointing so far
Glad it helped.
This is such a helpful video, Brent! One of your best because you lay out the math so clearly. I feel like I can apply it in my home right away, so thanks! One question: what do you do in situations where the framing doesn’t allow for the full-width casing that’s needed? Are there adjustments that a master carpenter would use to shrink the molding but still tie it in, say, in a tight corner? Perhaps that’s a video topic? Thanks again!
I usually blend it into the wall as if it was cut off. Good luck.
The content is solid. The only issue i have is the monolithic casing. It is without a doubt a labor savings over historic multi-layered built-up. However its limiting in some applications. You you can do a lot with 3 peice casing that is not possible or more labor intensive on single casing, something as basic as a jackmiter. I agree its still better then 99.9% of what's available off the shelf. However at this level I want the absolute best for the application. Being able to adjust the width, mix profiles and carry details is the true benefit.
Ok, thanks for sharing.
Even his calculator has historical precedent
haha. thx
I don’t understand why people need off the shelf moldings. We couldn’t get Kuiken to ship non finger jointed wood so we just went down to the lumber mill picked out some nice rough poplar had a set of knives made and bam Greek revival moldings. Maybe cost us another $2k on our remodel. Definitely worth it.
Great.
How do you feel about veneered millwork? I'm thinking in the realm of being able to get the proportions correct but not have to spend as much on solid wood. I know there's some examples out there but I don't know if they are a decent representation for the masses to be able to get proper casings and millwork (not just door casings) loved to learn as well.
I'm not sure veneered millwork exists?? Why add an extra step to wood trim when raw wood is fairly cheap.
@@BrentHull Veneered is the wrong word. I meant laminated like plywood versus solid wood trim, 10:22 the piece looks to have horizontal glue lamination lines like its plywood or are my eyes just seeing things?
We have a 60s ranch and our problem is a lot (including front door) is right up against a wall. So all that fits are the smaller trims. So is it better or our only option to use the smaller casings or just rip the side against the wall down to fit?
I would rip it down so it can fit. Good luck.
Where is a place to find the information on figuring out the sizes to use in a room. Great video
The American vignola is supposedly a good book. You can pick an order from the 3 (or 5) and just use the ratios.
As I mentioned above, there is a table based on ceiling height on which size mouldings you should use in the book How to Get Your House Right.
@@snafunet It's actually just called Get Your House Right. An excellent read!
ICAA- Institute of Classical architecture and art. Great learning here.
@@marvinhaines9297 Sorry! You're right. I don't know why I was thinking of "How to" but yes it's a great book!
Our Craftsman bungalow, built 1927, had original wooden windows and 4-1/4” trim around inside doors and windows.
Sadly, a previous owner put in a picture window and replaced the trim to make the house look like a 1950-60s bungalow.
We replaced the picture window with one in a style similar to what was there originally (but in vinyl as I hadn’t found your channel yet).
My next step is to replace the ugly narrow interior trim and perhaps add crown moulding. Our ceilings are 8’5 and some areas/rooms are as small as 4’x 4’ Is that ceiling too low and rooms too small for crown molding?
Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. FYI, Crown wasn't an important molding in 1927. If you can get the trim returned to original you should be in great shape. Good luck.
Dear Mr Hull, I would like to ask you for advice.. I have a 9ft 4 inch (285 cm) tall room with 8ft 4 inch (255 cm) tall Windows and Openings (5 ft 3 in or 160 cm wide). I would like to case these but it's getting close to the ceiling as there is only about a foot of empty space to the ceiling .. how would you suggest tying it into the crown in the room? I would really like to make this space magical.
In this recent video, I tie the door to the ceiling with the frieze. The frieze (a flat board) over top of the door casing and under the crown. Good luck.
@@BrentHull Yes but my limited space above the opening violates the 1/5 size of the entablature so it's very tight to the ceiling with only 1 foot .. any suggestion what to do here so it does not look "funny" or forced?
I found the answer to my issue I hope in one of your older videos on th e build show “choosing the right classical Elements .. “ when you observe the Roman’s added a column base changing the proportions.. if I follow the Roman’s and not the Greeks I might be closer in proportions with my 1 foot entablature.. I guess I need to add a chair rail to the room. :) thank you !
Please, post a video about pulvinated friezes. There is not much info on the internet, seems no one remembers how to build it. Asked Kuiken, they don't have the option
Ok, coming soon.
Almost every house post Industrial Revolution in the Uk has one of 6 different mouldings for architrave. Almost all are 3/4” and widest is 3” generally. Obviously there are exceptions but the only nice door openings I see are in pre 1800 large houses. I do a lot of work in a Jacobean house that had a Georgian makeover that has some original wall panelling and beautiful elaborate door openings. It even has the original coats of arms carved into the wall panelling
Wow, lucky you. Sounds amazing.
@ makes a change from seeing the same 6 mouldings in almost every house! Watching your videos helps me to offer something most others can’t, so thank you
How does the average homeowner get good quality moldings like this?
Kuiken Lumber or Windsorone is a start. I designed their molding lines. You can also fight, push your builder demand better. We need to push back against the crap.
I don’t think any client will accept 3” thick molding. And we have a few eccentric clients. I thought we weren’t supposed to use crown.
3" thick casing belongs in a larger room and probably needs 10' ceilings. There is good historic precedent for it. When did I say don't use crown?
Mr Hull probably cannot stand to see the mouldings on Home Depot, Lowes, or other sites. They are all the same. The few that are different are insanely overpriced for inferior materials even.
Word.
I live in the Netherlands and most door casings in newly built homes are disgustingly tasteless and barely functional. They are made of thin hollow metal and have no definition at all... There is no aspiration to create art or even just a good product
Shoot. I hope this helps.
"the architrave was used historically as the term for door and window casing" I don't know which bit you Americans call the casing, but I know what an architrave is.
Haha. Americans...