It's very important to zero before measuring (with the clamp). Do it right before you measure, close to what you are going to measure, and don't change the orientation more than you absolutely need to between zeroing and measuring. Otherwise the earth's magnetic field + and other ambient magnetic fields will make your measurement less accurate. Even just moving it half a meter and rotating it 90 degrees can significantly impact the reading. This is a limitation of all clamps since they rely on measuring the magnetic field, and ambient magnetic fields exist all around us. This is a great hobbyist-level (or even low-level professional) tool. Really great price for the quality that you get in terms of the electronics at least. I wouldn't subject it to rough use since it's not poted ect., but if you are using one of these on a day-to-day basis then you probably have a professional-level tool already. For my use with home electrics and PC-enthusiast work it's great since I treat all my tools gently anyway. I got one for an absolute steal on ebay just recently.
you all probably dont care but does someone know a way to get back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost my login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Korbin Kingsley thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Hey Paul, a good tip for putting screws back into plastic is turn the screw slowly in reverse till you feel it click and then tighten it. It will go back into its original thread.
There are videos on reprogramming it with an Arduino to increase its sample rate and also you can make it default to DC instead of AC. It's a super nice little meter!
Thanks for this video mate, I ordered one half way through watching. Very thoroughly examined by yourself, good to see and watch. Greetings from Western Australia!
I was fooled for a time, not knowing that most clamp-ammeters don't measure DC. When I inquired about one at my local electronics store, they quoted me "$400 and up." I was very pleased to buy this one at such a reasonable price.
I've had one for a couple of years as a secondary meter, primarily for the clamp function. The only thing I don't like about it, is that you cannot make it default to DC mode.
I agree with you a 100% And any time you switch the dial you have to set it again for DC mode, grrr! That's the same complaint from all the other review video's from this meter. It would be nice if there was any way to mod this.
Also have it for about two years. Works great. But I use it almost always for AC so did not notice that inconvenience. I also always use NCV as a safety check and it works every time (I check before and after I cut the power). It's reasonably accurate and I caught a 50W ground fault in my home just by noticing the current difference between the live and neutral wires of the whole apartment at the panel. The ground fault was due to a miswired socket , which I fixed.
Hi Paul. I mentioned this meter and that your friend Big Clive had it too. And also big Great Scott uses one I found out. You are a bit mistaken about handling this meter for right handed people. I think this is because your are left handed? In your right hand you have your forefinger on the trigger (clamp), just like holding a gun, but I got little experience with that since that hardware is not allowed here. In this way you are able to control the dial with your thumb which feels very natural and in this way you can easily read the display. I got mine this thursday from China for 38, very happy with it :)
> hold it your right hand with your thumb on the wheel, and your 2 index fingers on the clamp I was about to post that. Except the part about having 2 index fingers on the right hand. How's the weather in Chernobyl?
Well this is the meter that keeps on turning up on my eBay search’s for clamp meters. Was unsure about the”brand”. But looks like it performed well for the money. Love the fact your reviews don’t break the bank!
Hi Paul, You have to wonder why they didn't design one of the lead's plugs a little longer so that the longer one can rotate around without interfering with the other when sitting on the bench. I also saw in another video the rotary switch contacts scrape across the PCB, cutting into skinny surface traces running across the top of the board. Have you found anything else that would give us pause to buying this unit after your three years use? Anything better come along since then? I'm getting ready to pull the trigger.
You're going to saturate the magnetics - and it won't "Zero" afterwards. If you're smart enough, you could de-gauss it though ... look up "B-H curve" and study a little on magnetics ...
I have the UniT 203 meter. It has less features but the thing I'm not crazy about is the screen is small. This meter is a nice upgrade from the 203 (more features, bigger screen). Thanks for the thorough review!
Great review! Thanks for posting it. I noticed that the Amazon link you posted above is a Signstek, not a Uni-T, which I'm assuming is a rebranded UT210E. Is there a reason you prefer that one over a standard Uni-T branded product? Thanks!
In general, Uni-T are very good bang for buck. They produce a very wide range of meters across a very wide price point. Try the UT 181A. I use this alongside my 87V as my daily driver.
The only reason why I haven't gotten a UT181A is that it can be killed by static electricity by applying it on the input side. I don't wanna spend hundreds of dollars and accidentally kill it with my own hands... same thing with the UT61E, but that's way cheaper. The UT139C and UT139E however are immune to static electricity, I'm quite comfortable with those two knowing they will just keep living.
Did a bit of checking on Uni-T when I bought one of these myself, they are a very good company with excellent quality focus. Mine is very accurate! Hey Paul don't give up reviewing meters, they are your forte.
Hi paul as you know im a long time sparky and i have used the clamp testers quite a bit they are my favorite tester you can test voltages amps a few different ways great tester. HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE !!!!!! BE SAFE
Hi Paul. First of all, thank you for your content, just recently found your channel and I really like it. Back to the topic, you appear to have a UT210e sporting the ETL label, and it's the first time I see one. Would you by any chance be able to take a couple of high resolution photos of both sides of the pcb? I'd love to confront your version with the non-ETL one to see if any significant difference is present. Keep up the good work and all the best.
I've had a on going need for one of these DC Clamp On meters for DECADES ! LOL Just never took the step because of the cost of the damn things. This one is doable. Going to be ordering one next week. Financial Thing. Thank You .
I've used one of these as my portable meter for about a year. It does well and the carry case has held up well. Accuracy is as close as needed for this type of thing and it's not drifted at all. PS. You might want to fix the text in the description. The model number is wrong twice.
Thanks for the review. coincidentally this UNI-T 210e was exactly what I researched based on several amp clamp meters primarily for measuring DC current and only wanted to spend less than £50 and I am comfortable I've made a good choice. I better go current camp to learn how to use this 😂
Great Video. Happy New Year. I'm just getting tnto 18650 batteries and fid them somewhat confusing. 1) What is a GOOD brand. Lots of claimed stored Amperage. 2) Should it have a protection circuit built into it? I just bought " Panasonicc NCR 18650B HIGH DRAIN 3400mAh Rechargeable Li-ion 1Vape Battery" I think they have the built in protection. 3) can I charge them with a charger that also has built in protection? Sorry.. The VAPE in the description was not why I was buying it. I'm not into vaping so I'm not sure what the connection is. I'm just asking about Le-Ion 18650B batteries. I stopped smoking 40 some years ago on LSMFT.
Also check vaping forums. The main thing is to buy your 18650 from reputable suppliers. Many people will rewrap cheap batteries to make you think you are getting genuine top brand batteries. So stick with reputable suppliers and you'll be ok.
William Miller I switched over to 18650s about 2 years ago and have been pleasantly surprised every day with how well they work. You absolutely must try the XSTAR VP2 charger, after much research this one is supposed to be one of the best for charging curves. I also recommend WOWTAC A2S head lamp in neutral white. I use one every day and 2 years ago I bought 3 as I wanted back up. All three still work except one has it's finish wearing off, that's how much I use it.
I'm from Australia. I've got a few sets of Brymen test leads. They are very nice, gold plated, rubberised handle, silicone insulation, 18awg, come with screw-on banana connector on the tip end. I also have two sets of probemaster leads, same as yours. I have to say, I don't have a preference between the two in terms of performance, but I do prefer the Brymen cuz they are cheaper and easier for us aussies to get, Franky sells them on eBay. I also have a few sets of expensive Fluke leads, TL175, Tl71, TL224 and a few attachments but I don't remember their model numbers. They are nice, but really they are not something I recommend because of their prices. I've recently discovered a set of cheap high quality leads. It's branded Cleqee, no idea how to pronounce that. The model i have is P1503. The wires are very flexible, I doubt it's silicone, but it feels flexible enough that I'd call it "half silicone". The wire gauge feels like 18/16 awg, I've yet to test actual internal resistance yet. The handles and plugs are both rubberised and feel great to the touch. The tips are moduler too. One big things I love about these probes than all my other more expensive ones is that, these probe handles can be bent quite a bit! They can flex and bend in your hand. I really can't get enough of these leads. They are just so comfortable to hold! EDIT: fix stupid typos
Thanks Paul, a great little meter! I did manage to get hold of a full set of ProbeMaster leads and accessories from a UK supplier and, whilst simply a hobbyist and not a professional in any sense, I love them to bits for loads of reasons, they’re simply the best (I have!)... 👍🏻 🧐 🐍
I understand your take about replacing the provided probes with yours, without even testing them: as an engineer it's perfectly understandable, since _you_ know that _your_ probes are reliable and accurate, and you only want to test the multimeter - *_not_* the whole product. But imho, it's part of the deal so why not (no will not start a new channel lol)? I *know* those UNI-T probes that are provided with their kits, even the UT181A that I bought offering grey probes with caps (supposed to be on their higher end of their product line), are utter crap. Until I got better and more "complete" ones, I used cheap old probes that came along a 10$CAD multimeter and which worked much better... Anyway, good review, thanks: I won't buy this because the NCV (those clamps being the main purpose of this specific multimeter) doesn't seem reliable at all.
The NCV sensor is in the little bump on top of the clamp. I both have the UNI-T UT210E and the -D, and Indeed, I like those meters too. Bang accurate, and with the Hold button, you can even lock the readout so you can measure in difficult conditions, and can read the display afterwards. I allso have the Dynatek 9045 (Oldie), but this small meter is awesome to carry with me. The -E is in use for the daily jobs, and the -D is in use for the higher currents 100A+ AC and DC and frequency reading.
Hi Paul, I want to use my UT210e to measure the current from my multiplier. For instance at the start of the multiplier and I really would like to know how many mA the end of the multiplier produces. So let's say I want to measure the current from my 25kv multiplier output; is it safe to use the clamp meter for this application? '(off course with good shielded and safe hv wiring) I hope so because the outcome of the output really matters to me. And since it is not directly connected to any high voltage my intuition says it must be ok, but I give more value to your statement as an experienced engineer. Can you plz give me some feedback?
@@learnelectronics Ok, I dared to try it and it works! I get 40 mA from an NST so I do get at reading at a high voltage and 150 kHz. Me is happy :) Thank you Paul!
Paul, when I link to Amazon and view "Product description below diode and above NCV, V.F.C. is one of the features. What is this feature? Thanks for your well presented and informative electronics teach.
I tried to order one of these once, it never showed and had to get a refund from ebay. Ended up getting a pretty nice Tacklife CMO2A clamp meter thats also true RMS but 6000 count for $25.00 - also works great and has really surprised me, both of these meters seem pretty good for the money.
Fantastic meter, man! I liked it a lot! 😃 I need to get one, but I didn't decided yet between this one and the Mustool MT866... Do you know that one? Anyway... Happy new year! And I hope your mother's better! 😊
NVC DIY FIX: use Bounce sheet (the sheet you put in your drying machine) and rub it on the meter and the test lead and the housing... it will prevent the meter from getting statics and beep for no reasons...
Thanks for the video homesteader! Like many, I use mine for automotive diagnostics as it's compact size is a big plus, but I'm not thrilled with the readings i get on many low resistance devices (could be operator error, I confess). It sure is hard to zero on DC voltage, but I guess that's because it's reading millivolts -not a plus for my applications, sort of distracting, but i just ignore it like you do. I also find the NCV to be a bit iffy at times and I don't entirely trust it. Thanks for the quality leads comments -as a DIY'er, that's something that we sometimes fail to consider sufficiently. Best wishes.
3:06 - 'Something you learn in engineering'. Something I learned in engineering is RTFM. (google it if you are not an engineer) 4:20 - Sometimes when measuring a DC voltage, it is necessary to select the DC range on the meter. It eliminates one of the variables... Got as far as 4:30, didn't get angry, didn't start another channel, just moved on. >>>> Next
Our dear friend, 1) If you think about it again, you will see that you are probably not right about the grip on the device, so your note on device design will necessarily be wrong (in fact you are holding the device upside down). This device is design to grip with your right hand, and the "Thumb" is designed to operate the mode selector wheel, not the clump. Operate the clump should be done with your "Index" finger. 2) I really liked your review, and in fact you will know that this device can be obtained relatively safely also through their official store on AliExpress (which this website needs a lot of caution) at a significantly lower price (the price goes up and down, but the average is 34USD, including shipping). 3) I thank you very much for your videos. This device has helped me save the lives of several friends (a sure save from a sure death - and I'm not exaggerating and not kidding).
I love it... "You don't like it? Start your own channel!" Right on! Some folks may think you are copping an attitude. I see it you calling it as you see it, and anyone who does not like it can submit a form requesting a full refund for the fee paid to watch this video and listen to the presenter. All refunds will be processed immediately upon submission of the refund request with proof of payment! heh heh...
I love this meter. Very versatile! No other meter does what this does for this price and size. I wish it defaulted to DC measurement on startup. It's annoying that it starts up in AC mode.
re: "It's annoying that it starts up in AC mode." That can be changed - read a little further down in the comments here for that info (the EEPROM can be re-flashed giving a LOT more features).
Yeah ... I didn't order one (or several even!) ... I don't know what to think but I appreciate your comment and input on this. If you do receive it, check back in here on this thread and let us know ... the guy might just be 'dumping stock' to clear out a wharehouse or needs the hard US currency. Who knows .. sales direct from the manufacturer/assembly house cuts out a lot of profit-taking middle-men.
Added: I did notice the seller has only 23 transactions/reviews/fully completed sales to his/her name - and none for the meter (yet) ... of course, this is a glaring RED flag (no pun intended!)
It's a clamp meter :P A good one and it is really tiny. 1mA res :P To measure current in AC, build a small extension cord with splitted wires. watch out for the glare before taking out the digits.
Die NCV -Funktion ist leicht auch ohne Verbraucher als stromführender Phasenmesser einsetzbar (ähnlich wie an der Glimmlampe auf Strom und Nullphase messbar). Zumindest bei UNI-T ging dies überperfekt. Einfacher Trick: man wickelt die schwarze Kabelstrippe der roten Messleitung um die Mess-Zange 4x außen ganz umrundend herum und klemmt den roten Messstift fixierend zwischen die Zange nach vorne ein, mit der Spitze nach vorne zeigend. Mit der anderen Hand greift man auf Kontakt mit der schwarzen Meßleitung.
Ordered one of these earlier this month. Just the other day I was using it and discovered the 2A and 20A Amperage mode was not functioning. No AC/DC Icon. It would function switch into the other functions like Volts, Cap and Diode fine. DAMN, Went back to the posting I purchased it from looking for any kind of Warranty. Eaaaa 30 Free Return. Contacted the Seller and explained the What For. He / She who ever responded the next day asking for Photo's of the Issues at hand, Eaaaaa Here we go I was thinking . Going to run me around a few more days and out last the few days I had left to return the thing. I sent photo's of the thing in the None Functioning settings. Next day they informed me a New Unit was on the way. DAMN Never expected that from a E Bay seller. Didn't even want me to send the old unit back. Think I'll try to Reprogram it and see if it will work. Should be here Friday. Whhhhh00000000000000000 !
You can only measure one wire on DC and not 2 wires as you stated in your video @ 10min 5 Sec . 2 wires in DC mode on a hall sensor cancel out the Amps as they travel in opposite directions
For people in Europe: You can get these probes at Welectron: www.welectron.com/ but they are more expensive compared to the US. Personally I use the Brymen probes cuz they are cheaper (10 Euros for a pair) and they also are gold-plated and have really soft silicone leads. But I plan to get some Probemasters for comparison. I highly recommend everyone to get good probes for your multimeter. Even for cheap ones like the Anengs it will make a huge difference for your measurements. They just make much better contact and are so much nicer to use.
Come on! You missed the most important feature! Non contact Direct current amperage! It is suppsed to be a selling feature of this meter! Does it even work? If so, how accurate? Miiliamps? Two thumbs down.
Oldricky.....Check out the short on my channel, loaded it up especially for you.... I did no intensive testing, rather a quick check.... To answer in advance....19 milliamps worked fine.....
It's made right for right handed people you're just holding it wrong.Your index finger goes on the clamp and your thumb controls the wheel. Much easier to use.
This is an old video so I hope you've realised by now that you're supposed to operate the lever with your finger like a gun trigger. it's not a flaw. Literally, 99% of clamp meters have the lever on the same side.
I'm from UK and just use overpriced genuine Fuke aftermarket leads. One set with fixed probes and the other with banana plugs both ends to use Fluke croc clips ect.
Do not spend more than $30 on these overseas clamp meters, they are no comparison to a Klein meter, there are 3 models that test DC current, CL380, CL800, CL900.
One of the biggest challenges for a meter is "true RMS". Does anybody know of a review that tests the accuracy of the UT210E re true RMS? Just on simple waveforms like half & full wave rectified sine wave & square wave would be good. Edit: just found this Amazon review by a meteorologist that tests true RMS (although not rectified sine): www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1W3TYFDI0IWZF/
Emmmmm, No in circuit current measurement SUCKS most well, Eaaaa? Well limits the scope of use some what. Still handy looking and not as clunky as some , eaaa! AVE has one Dead Bug out of the Box.
Inline DC current measurement is completely unnecessary when you have the clamp. Cheaper clamp-meters have inline current measurement for DC, because they only measure AC current with the clamp.
It's very important to zero before measuring (with the clamp). Do it right before you measure, close to what you are going to measure, and don't change the orientation more than you absolutely need to between zeroing and measuring. Otherwise the earth's magnetic field + and other ambient magnetic fields will make your measurement less accurate. Even just moving it half a meter and rotating it 90 degrees can significantly impact the reading. This is a limitation of all clamps since they rely on measuring the magnetic field, and ambient magnetic fields exist all around us.
This is a great hobbyist-level (or even low-level professional) tool. Really great price for the quality that you get in terms of the electronics at least. I wouldn't subject it to rough use since it's not poted ect., but if you are using one of these on a day-to-day basis then you probably have a professional-level tool already. For my use with home electrics and PC-enthusiast work it's great since I treat all my tools gently anyway.
I got one for an absolute steal on ebay just recently.
Ah . Hey what is auto for? When zero button is held down tye word auto comes up on the display
you all probably dont care but does someone know a way to get back into an Instagram account?
I somehow lost my login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Ronald Zain instablaster ;)
@Korbin Kingsley thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Korbin Kingsley it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
Hey Paul, a good tip for putting screws back into plastic is turn the screw slowly in reverse till you feel it click and then tighten it. It will go back into its original thread.
"You dont like it? Go start your own channel" ..... I LUV IT!
I had to laugh too at that comment! LOL!
Well they just need to start uploading videos. Everybody on TH-cam has a channel. I guess that is what Paul meant. I thought it was funny also.
Got a thumbs up on the video as soon as he said it. hehe
this is your first video I am watching and you taught me a valuable lesson "test one variable at a time"
There are videos on reprogramming it with an Arduino to increase its sample rate and also you can make it default to DC instead of AC. It's a super nice little meter!
Thanks for this video mate, I ordered one half way through watching. Very thoroughly examined by yourself, good to see and watch. Greetings from Western Australia!
Greetings my Aussie friend! Thank for the kind words.
Thank you this is exactly the video I wanted to see.
Please make more vids relating to magnetism, that is a wonderful series you made.
Hold it in your right hand palm on the underside, index finger on the clamp lever and thumb on the function wheel.
Yes ...
I got the UT211B. It has dc current at great resolution, 0.01 A upto 60A and 1 mA upto 6000 mA. Best wishes from Northern Ireland.
Same options in other models??
It was me who asked for a clamp meter review after getting a dud Uni T clamp meter
I was fooled for a time, not knowing that most clamp-ammeters don't measure DC. When I inquired about one at my local electronics store, they quoted me "$400 and up." I was very pleased to buy this one at such a reasonable price.
I've had one for a couple of years as a secondary meter, primarily for the clamp function.
The only thing I don't like about it, is that you cannot make it default to DC mode.
I agree with you a 100% And any time you switch the dial you have to set it again for DC mode, grrr! That's the same complaint from all the other review video's from this meter. It would be nice if there was any way to mod this.
You are not 100% correct. Hacking the meter is possible to select the order of AC/DC measurement and also increase the count limit.
@@rolandberendonck3900 This process is well documented on EEV Forum.
www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/
@@agaelema Oh! Please share details.
Also have it for about two years. Works great. But I use it almost always for AC so did not notice that inconvenience. I also always use NCV as a safety check and it works every time (I check before and after I cut the power). It's reasonably accurate and I caught a 50W ground fault in my home just by noticing the current difference between the live and neutral wires of the whole apartment at the panel. The ground fault was due to a miswired socket , which I fixed.
Hi Paul. I mentioned this meter and that your friend Big Clive had it too. And also big Great Scott uses one I found out. You are a bit mistaken about handling this meter for right handed people. I think this is because your are left handed? In your right hand you have your forefinger on the trigger (clamp), just like holding a gun, but I got little experience with that since that hardware is not allowed here. In this way you are able to control the dial with your thumb which feels very natural and in this way you can easily read the display. I got mine this thursday from China for 38, very happy with it :)
Yes agree you don't necessarily need use your thumb. Correct about big Clive etc. I noticed too.
Pretty clear you didn't watch the video start to finish
1:53
@@MrFrazierNation Huh?? Who of this community could resist not watching Paul's new video from start to end????????
Peace! :)
@@rolandberendonck3900 A lot of the material covered here is way above me, but I enjoy watching all of the videos
If you hold it in your right hand with your thumb on the wheel, and your 2 index fingers on the clamp, it's a perfect ergonomic fit.
> hold it your right hand with your thumb on the wheel, and your 2 index fingers on the clamp
I was about to post that. Except the part about having 2 index fingers on the right hand. How's the weather in Chernobyl?
Yes they all are made this way.
Well this is the meter that keeps on turning up on my eBay search’s for clamp meters. Was unsure about the”brand”. But looks like it performed well for the money. Love the fact your reviews don’t break the bank!
I'm all about getting in the electronics game cheaply.
I don't see the calibration tool in your store. Where is that available?
That looks like a nice clamp meter. Great video as always Paul, glad to hear that Christmas went well.
I hope your mom is healing up nicely.
Is there an option maximum and minimum tark mesure. Option.?
Hi Paul,
You have to wonder why they didn't design one of the lead's plugs a little longer so that the longer one can rotate around without interfering with the other when sitting on the bench.
I also saw in another video the rotary switch contacts scrape across the PCB, cutting into skinny surface traces running across the top of the board.
Have you found anything else that would give us pause to buying this unit after your three years use? Anything better come along since then? I'm getting ready to pull the trigger.
No, this guy is tops in it's price range.
what happens if i try to measure 120 amps dc? will it brake or will it say over limit?
You're going to saturate the magnetics - and it won't "Zero" afterwards.
If you're smart enough, you could de-gauss it though ... look up "B-H curve" and study a little on magnetics ...
Ut210e can measure the leakage current?
How to measure frequency in this meter?
Thanks a lot for this great review and make me buy it this time
Good unboxing and review, thanks.
I have the UniT 203 meter. It has less features but the thing I'm not crazy about is the screen is small. This meter is a nice upgrade from the 203 (more features, bigger screen). Thanks for the thorough review!
Welcome my friend and happy New Year
@@learnelectronics happy new year!
You can flash the firmware to adjust it a bit to your liking... just check the EEVBlog
This uni t or the Kaiweets HT208D? For simple home and car diagnose
I'm not sure what to go with 🤔
Is this Mini Clamp Meter good at measuring DC currents of less than one ampere?
Keep in doing it Paul!
Great review! Thanks for posting it. I noticed that the Amazon link you posted above is a Signstek, not a Uni-T, which I'm assuming is a rebranded UT210E. Is there a reason you prefer that one over a standard Uni-T branded product? Thanks!
In general, Uni-T are very good bang for buck. They produce a very wide range of meters across a very wide price point. Try the UT 181A. I use this alongside my 87V as my daily driver.
The only reason why I haven't gotten a UT181A is that it can be killed by static electricity by applying it on the input side. I don't wanna spend hundreds of dollars and accidentally kill it with my own hands... same thing with the UT61E, but that's way cheaper.
The UT139C and UT139E however are immune to static electricity, I'm quite comfortable with those two knowing they will just keep living.
Did a bit of checking on Uni-T when I bought one of these myself, they are a very good company with excellent quality focus. Mine is very accurate! Hey Paul don't give up reviewing meters, they are your forte.
@@DeeegerD ok I will.
Hi paul as you know im a long time sparky and i have used the clamp testers quite a bit they are my favorite tester you can test voltages amps a few different ways great tester. HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE !!!!!! BE SAFE
Happy New year!!
Very useful review! Thanks
Hi Paul.
First of all, thank you for your content, just recently found your channel and I really like it.
Back to the topic, you appear to have a UT210e sporting the ETL label, and it's the first time I see one.
Would you by any chance be able to take a couple of high resolution photos of both sides of the pcb? I'd love to confront your version with the non-ETL one to see if any significant difference is present.
Keep up the good work and all the best.
I've had a on going need for one of these DC Clamp On meters for DECADES ! LOL Just never took the step because of the cost of the damn things. This one is doable. Going to be ordering one next week. Financial Thing. Thank You .
I've used one of these as my portable meter for about a year. It does well and the carry case has held up well. Accuracy is as close as needed for this type of thing and it's not drifted at all.
PS. You might want to fix the text in the description. The model number is wrong twice.
Thanks you are correct
Thanks for the review. coincidentally this UNI-T 210e was exactly what I researched based on several amp clamp meters primarily for measuring DC current and only wanted to spend less than £50 and I am comfortable I've made a good choice. I better go current camp to learn how to use this 😂
Great Video. Happy New Year. I'm just getting tnto 18650 batteries and fid them somewhat confusing. 1) What is a GOOD brand. Lots of claimed stored Amperage. 2) Should it have a protection circuit built into it? I just bought " Panasonicc NCR 18650B HIGH DRAIN 3400mAh Rechargeable Li-ion 1Vape Battery" I think they have the built in protection. 3) can I charge them with a charger that also has built in protection?
Sorry.. The VAPE in the description was not why I was buying it. I'm not into vaping so I'm not sure what the connection is. I'm just asking about Le-Ion 18650B batteries. I stopped smoking 40 some years ago on LSMFT.
This is really not my area of expertise. I would check out any local vape shops. Those guys know their 18560s.
Also check vaping forums. The main thing is to buy your 18650 from reputable suppliers. Many people will rewrap cheap batteries to make you think you are getting genuine top brand batteries. So stick with reputable suppliers and you'll be ok.
William Miller I switched over to 18650s about 2 years ago and have been pleasantly surprised every day with how well they work. You absolutely must try the XSTAR VP2 charger, after much research this one is supposed to be one of the best for charging curves. I also recommend WOWTAC A2S head lamp in neutral white. I use one every day and 2 years ago I bought 3 as I wanted back up. All three still work except one has it's finish wearing off, that's how much I use it.
Thanks Paul. It looks like a decent little meter. I was thinking about getting another clamp meter.
I like it.
I like that it uses 2 AAA's. I hate using 9V batteries.
where can i get some of those gold tip jobbies?
Probemaster
I'm from Australia. I've got a few sets of Brymen test leads. They are very nice, gold plated, rubberised handle, silicone insulation, 18awg, come with screw-on banana connector on the tip end. I also have two sets of probemaster leads, same as yours. I have to say, I don't have a preference between the two in terms of performance, but I do prefer the Brymen cuz they are cheaper and easier for us aussies to get, Franky sells them on eBay.
I also have a few sets of expensive Fluke leads, TL175, Tl71, TL224 and a few attachments but I don't remember their model numbers. They are nice, but really they are not something I recommend because of their prices.
I've recently discovered a set of cheap high quality leads. It's branded Cleqee, no idea how to pronounce that. The model i have is P1503. The wires are very flexible, I doubt it's silicone, but it feels flexible enough that I'd call it "half silicone". The wire gauge feels like 18/16 awg, I've yet to test actual internal resistance yet. The handles and plugs are both rubberised and feel great to the touch. The tips are moduler too. One big things I love about these probes than all my other more expensive ones is that, these probe handles can be bent quite a bit! They can flex and bend in your hand. I really can't get enough of these leads. They are just so comfortable to hold!
EDIT: fix stupid typos
Thanks Paul, a great little meter! I did manage to get hold of a full set of ProbeMaster leads and accessories from a UK supplier and, whilst simply a hobbyist and not a professional in any sense, I love them to bits for loads of reasons, they’re simply the best (I have!)... 👍🏻 🧐 🐍
where?
John Michael Stock Simons Electronics - simonselectronics.co.uk/product-category/probe-master/
I understand your take about replacing the provided probes with yours, without even testing them: as an engineer it's perfectly understandable, since _you_ know that _your_ probes are reliable and accurate, and you only want to test the multimeter - *_not_* the whole product. But imho, it's part of the deal so why not (no will not start a new channel lol)? I *know* those UNI-T probes that are provided with their kits, even the UT181A that I bought offering grey probes with caps (supposed to be on their higher end of their product line), are utter crap. Until I got better and more "complete" ones, I used cheap old probes that came along a 10$CAD multimeter and which worked much better... Anyway, good review, thanks: I won't buy this because the NCV (those clamps being the main purpose of this specific multimeter) doesn't seem reliable at all.
The NCV sensor is in the little bump on top of the clamp. I both have the UNI-T UT210E and the -D, and Indeed, I like those meters too. Bang accurate, and with the Hold button, you can even lock the readout so you can measure in difficult conditions, and can read the display afterwards. I allso have the Dynatek 9045 (Oldie), but this small meter is awesome to carry with me. The -E is in use for the daily jobs, and the -D is in use for the higher currents 100A+ AC and DC and frequency reading.
Cool thanks for the info
Paul, What is VFC function?
NCV? Non contact voltage
What is auto? When zero button is held down the word auto comes up
Bonne video merci 👍
What probes are you using?
Probemaster
Hi Paul, I want to use my UT210e to measure the current from my multiplier. For instance at the start of the multiplier and I really would like to know how many mA the end of the multiplier produces. So let's say I want to measure the current from my 25kv multiplier output; is it safe to use the clamp meter for this application? '(off course with good shielded and safe hv wiring) I hope so because the outcome of the output really matters to me. And since it is not directly connected to any high voltage my intuition says it must be ok, but I give more value to your statement as an experienced engineer. Can you plz give me some feedback?
You're good to 200A.
@@learnelectronics Ok, I dared to try it and it works! I get 40 mA from an NST so I do get at reading at a high voltage and 150 kHz. Me is happy :) Thank you Paul!
cool video! I have a TackLife DM02 meter gonna see about getting the test leads you use
Paul, when I link to Amazon and view "Product description below diode and above NCV, V.F.C. is one of the features. What is this feature? Thanks for your well presented and informative electronics teach.
Very thoughtful review.
I tried to order one of these once, it never showed and had to get a refund from ebay. Ended up getting a pretty nice Tacklife CMO2A clamp meter thats also true RMS but 6000 count for $25.00 - also works great and has really surprised me, both of these meters seem pretty good for the money.
I ordered UT203 and got this one, oh well...
Fantastic meter, man! I liked it a lot! 😃
I need to get one, but I didn't decided yet between this one and the Mustool MT866... Do you know that one?
Anyway... Happy new year! And I hope your mother's better! 😊
I don't know the Mustool, but I'll see if I can get my hands on one.
The NCV is in the small bump at the end of the clamp, it beeps faster the closer you get to AC...
It's even in the Owner's Manual. I love this little meter after about a year of use. It's sturdy, dependable, and accurate (as far as I can tell).
Would this be any good for testing my solar currents (5x100w) dc for my 12 v system in my motor home?
Yes it would work for that.
@@learnelectronics cool, i was also looking at the voltcraft v330, but it seems that these two are identical, just rebranded.
i must admit you have a unique taste of snacks in the bowl. maybe that's why you keep buying meters. happy new year Paul. ;)
NVC DIY FIX: use Bounce sheet (the sheet you put in your drying machine) and rub it on the meter and the test lead and the housing... it will prevent the meter from getting statics and beep for no reasons...
Thanks for the video homesteader! Like many, I use mine for automotive diagnostics as it's compact size is a big plus, but I'm not thrilled with the readings i get on many low resistance devices (could be operator error, I confess). It sure is hard to zero on DC voltage, but I guess that's because it's reading millivolts -not a plus for my applications, sort of distracting, but i just ignore it like you do. I also find the NCV to be a bit iffy at times and I don't entirely trust it. Thanks for the quality leads comments -as a DIY'er, that's something that we sometimes fail to consider sufficiently. Best wishes.
3:06 - 'Something you learn in engineering'. Something I learned in engineering is RTFM. (google it if you are not an engineer)
4:20 - Sometimes when measuring a DC voltage, it is necessary to select the DC range on the meter. It eliminates one of the variables...
Got as far as 4:30, didn't get angry, didn't start another channel, just moved on.
>>>> Next
Agree with your 4:20 observation. If I let it sit on AC, it just beeps & gripes.
Our dear friend,
1) If you think about it again, you will see that you are probably not right about the grip on the device, so your note on device design will necessarily be wrong (in fact you are holding the device upside down).
This device is design to grip with your right hand, and the "Thumb" is designed to operate the mode selector wheel, not the clump. Operate the clump should be done with your "Index" finger.
2) I really liked your review, and in fact you will know that this device can be obtained relatively safely also through their official store on AliExpress (which this website needs a lot of caution) at a significantly lower price (the price goes up and down, but the average is 34USD, including shipping).
3) I thank you very much for your videos.
This device has helped me save the lives of several friends (a sure save from a sure death - and I'm not exaggerating and not kidding).
I love it... "You don't like it? Start your own channel!" Right on!
Some folks may think you are copping an attitude. I see it you calling it as you see it, and anyone who does not like it can submit a form requesting a full refund for the fee paid to watch this video and listen to the presenter.
All refunds will be processed immediately upon submission of the refund request with proof of payment! heh heh...
Just bought this meter because of all the good reviews.Thumbs up and subscribed.
I love this meter. Very versatile! No other meter does what this does for this price and size. I wish it defaulted to DC measurement on startup. It's annoying that it starts up in AC mode.
re: "It's annoying that it starts up in AC mode."
That can be changed - read a little further down in the comments here for that info (the EEPROM can be re-flashed giving a LOT more features).
if this little guy have min and max value holding then its perfect
Very nice mte R for the $. Love to see those mob on input.
"and of course there's just a coil of wire in here" lol love it when people don't really know what they are talking about.
I think he probably meant a Hall effect transducer! The give away is the jaw lamination only on one jaw! Otherwise good Video.
Awesome work Dude!
I'm seeing these for US $6.99 Buy It Now - on eBay ... (in case the reviewer doesn't mind my posting this info) ..
Yeah ... I didn't order one (or several even!) ... I don't know what to think but I appreciate your comment and input on this. If you do receive it, check back in here on this thread and let us know ... the guy might just be 'dumping stock' to clear out a wharehouse or needs the hard US currency. Who knows .. sales direct from the manufacturer/assembly house cuts out a lot of profit-taking middle-men.
Added: I did notice the seller has only 23 transactions/reviews/fully completed sales to his/her name - and none for the meter (yet) ... of course, this is a glaring RED flag (no pun intended!)
Damn Paul. Tell them again🤣🤣 "Start your own channel" FTW
Excellent video
It's a clamp meter :P A good one and it is really tiny. 1mA res :P To measure current in AC, build a small extension cord with splitted wires. watch out for the glare before taking out the digits.
UNI-T, the most accurate of the low cost budget Multi Meters… 😃
It is very nice meter for the price.
Die NCV -Funktion ist leicht auch ohne Verbraucher als stromführender Phasenmesser einsetzbar (ähnlich wie an der Glimmlampe auf Strom und Nullphase messbar). Zumindest bei UNI-T ging dies überperfekt.
Einfacher Trick: man wickelt die schwarze Kabelstrippe der roten Messleitung um die Mess-Zange 4x außen ganz umrundend herum und klemmt den roten Messstift fixierend zwischen die Zange nach vorne ein, mit der Spitze nach vorne zeigend. Mit der anderen Hand greift man auf Kontakt mit der schwarzen Meßleitung.
It was too difficult for the content provider to show AC current measurement, huh!
Ordered one of these earlier this month. Just the other day I was using it and discovered the 2A and 20A Amperage mode was not functioning. No AC/DC Icon. It would function switch into the other functions like Volts, Cap and Diode fine. DAMN, Went back to the posting I purchased it from looking for any kind of Warranty. Eaaaa 30 Free Return. Contacted the Seller and explained the What For. He / She who ever responded the next day asking for Photo's of the Issues at hand, Eaaaaa Here we go I was thinking . Going to run me around a few more days and out last the few days I had left to return the thing. I sent photo's of the thing in the None Functioning settings. Next day they informed me a New Unit was on the way. DAMN Never expected that from a E Bay seller. Didn't even want me to send the old unit back. Think I'll try to Reprogram it and see if it will work. Should be here Friday. Whhhhh00000000000000000 !
Good to hear!
@@learnelectronics They actually are a hell of a good meter for the bucks. Yea, the AC/DC thing sucks but eaaa!
You can only measure one wire on DC and not 2 wires as you stated in your video @ 10min 5 Sec . 2 wires in DC mode on a hall sensor cancel out the Amps as they travel in opposite directions
You don’t like it? start your own channel. Wow, welcome to the future
This clamp has a resolution of 1mA, it is a very handy tool. You can hack it to 9,999 counts.
Right On Right On
That darn Zero button
For people in Europe:
You can get these probes at Welectron: www.welectron.com/ but they are more expensive compared to the US.
Personally I use the Brymen probes cuz they are cheaper (10 Euros for a pair) and they also are gold-plated and have really soft silicone leads. But I plan to get some Probemasters for comparison.
I highly recommend everyone to get good probes for your multimeter. Even for cheap ones like the Anengs it will make a huge difference for your measurements. They just make much better contact and are so much nicer to use.
Thanks for the tip on the Brymen probes
Hello. I have my uni-t ut200b
Come on! You missed the most important feature! Non contact Direct current amperage! It is suppsed to be a selling feature of this meter! Does it even work? If so, how accurate? Miiliamps? Two thumbs down.
Oldricky.....Check out the short on my channel, loaded it up especially for you.... I did no intensive testing, rather a quick check.... To answer in advance....19 milliamps worked fine.....
It's made right for right handed people you're just holding it wrong.Your index finger goes on the clamp and your thumb controls the wheel. Much easier to use.
This is an old video so I hope you've realised by now that you're supposed to operate the lever with your finger like a gun trigger. it's not a flaw. Literally, 99% of clamp meters have the lever on the same side.
Dont like it, make your own channel, suscríbed!
I'm from UK and just use overpriced genuine Fuke aftermarket leads. One set with fixed probes and the other with banana plugs both ends to use Fluke croc clips ect.
Isso que é amperímetro 🎉
Do not spend more than $30 on these overseas clamp meters, they are no comparison to a Klein meter, there are 3 models that test DC current, CL380, CL800, CL900.
25% off.
"Yeah, close enough."
" I dont wanna go to current camp!" 😭
One of the biggest challenges for a meter is "true RMS". Does anybody know of a review that tests the accuracy of the UT210E re true RMS? Just on simple waveforms like half & full wave rectified sine wave & square wave would be good.
Edit: just found this Amazon review by a meteorologist that tests true RMS (although not rectified sine): www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1W3TYFDI0IWZF/
Emmmmm, No in circuit current measurement SUCKS most well, Eaaaa? Well limits the scope of use some what. Still handy looking and not as clunky as some , eaaa! AVE has one Dead Bug out of the Box.
Inline DC current measurement is completely unnecessary when you have the clamp. Cheaper clamp-meters have inline current measurement for DC, because they only measure AC current with the clamp.
My condoms don't let the tip hand out
It takes 2 triple a batteries, not 1.
If you are going to review a product you must use all that came with the product. Not a full review otherwise.
Refer to my comment at them beginning of the video....
2000 counts just don’t play well, give me my 9999 count or more.