Custom Front Shock Tower For WLToys 12428
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Links to my other 12428 videos
Speed Runs - • Brushless WLToys 12428...
Full Size Servo Upgrade - • WLToys 12428 Servo Upg...
Bellcrank Steering Upgrade - • 12428 Bellcrank Steeri...
A959 Shock Tower (plastic) - www.aliexpress...
A959 Shock Tower (aluminum) - No longer available from seller I purchased from but search Aliexpress for “a959 shock tower” and you will find another option
OTHER UPGRADES
Hobbywing Sensored 10BL60/3650 Combo (10.5 turn option) - www.aliexpress...
Heatsink+Fan for 540 Size Motor - www.aliexpress...
Austar AX5S Transmitter/Reciever - www.aliexpress...
EMAX ES9258 Steering Servo(the only available 3 wire servo that fits stock servo bracket without adjustment) - www.aliexpress...
Aluminum Servo Saver - www.aliexpress...
Aluminum Steering Rack - www.aliexpress...
Turnbuckles (rod ends are junk) - www.aliexpress...
RC4WD M3 Rod Ends For Turnbuckles(cut/sand to length) - www.amazon.com...
Front RCAWD Oil Shocks (rod ends are weak use rod end from stock shock) - www.aliexpress...
Rear Injora Oil Reservoir Shocks (100mm option, and replace rod ends with Traxxas 2742X) - www.aliexpress...
Aluminum Front Arms/Knuckles/Hubs - www.aliexpress...
Aluminum Rear Trailing Arms - www.aliexpress...
Front Driveshaft (stock replacement not upgrade) - www.aliexpress...
Metal Rear Drive Shaft (only drive shaft available that works) - www.aliexpress...
Metal Differential Gears - www.aliexpress...
Metal Spur Gear - www.gearbest.c...
Metal Pinion Gear 17t - www.amazon.com...
Aluminum Wheel Hex’s - www.aliexpress...
Wheels (get wider offset hubs) - www.aliexpress...
Wider Offset Hubs (22mm black option) - www.aliexpress...
Tires(Injora super swampers, option A) - www.amazon.com...
Lipo Alarm (simple) - www.aliexpress...
Hopefully this video help some of you out there to create a shock tower for your 12428 as well. Definitely a worth while upgrade.
Excellent description. I really enjoy how you explain things.
ah yes I was wanting to do this mod but didn't know what all I'd have to do, now I know what to get
Enjoying your vids. Love these little 12428 rc's. I have a xmaxx and the 12428+10428. All highly modified. I like them much better than the xmaxx. Much cheaper to mod/fix and you can drive these 1/12 and 1/10 scale cars almost anywhere. Where as you need a huge open area for the xmaxx. Thanks for the cool vids!👊
This is great, I'm probably going to also try to swap out my front diff for a Feiyue fy03 one so I can run better driveshafts over the dog bone ones. I've broken one already.
M. TTT. - Never thought of that sounds like it could be a great idea. Not sure if the Feiyue driveshafts are gonna be any better though. But yea the dog bone driveshafts bend and break on occasion under 3s power and they chew up the drive cups pretty quick as well but parts are cheap so I just have a bunch of spare driveshafts and drive cups on hand. Also good to make sure the rod end on your front shocks are tightened all the way on the shock shaft so the front end rides as low as possible and that will make sure you aren’t running the driveshafts at too much of an angle because even a little bit steeper of an angle can greatly increase the stress and wear on the driveshafts and drive cups. Used to break driveshafts a lot before I noticed the shock ends weren’t all the way tight and since I’ve tightened them I haven’t broken a drive shaft and the drive cups don’t wear out nearly as fast.
Thank you for information.
thanks a bunch!
Very good imfo, nice rig 👍🏻
Nice video. I will do this to mine. I have a problem with my car, all diffs are metal already, but it is too noisy. I think the mesh of ring grear to bevel is too tight. My car is already 12427.
Hello. Great video, thank you for idea. :-) Have a peace Karel
Yeah I'm running 2s..been afraid to try 3s, dont wanna burn esc out. I will shop around for lower kv thanks. Have a couple 3s I can switch to if when I switch. Have a good one
Eric Hess - I was running a RacerStar(pretty sure similar quality to GoolRC) 60A ESC and 3900KV 3650 motor for a while in this car on 3s and it took it fine so I think it’ll be ok but yea pretty sure the lower KV will do the trick and if it feels too slow after that you could just toss in one of those 3s in and it’ll be back to where it was before. One thing that would for sure help is a 3660 if it fits, it’s 10mm longer and I’ve installed a custom bellcrank steering in my 12428 so I know it wouldn’t fit in mine but may fit with stock steering configuration. Longer motors improve torque as well so another option but I’d probably think just going 3200-3600KV on the 3650 would be fine.
Cool, I'll see if it would fit. Appreciate all the help and quick responses! May be hitting you up again as I'm sure I will continue to upgrade
Eric Hess - Yea no problem man, and no doubt you will keep upgrading its addictive haha. But yea feel free to come back with any future questions I’m usually pretty quick to respond on here, and I got a lot of time put into this car so don’t mind answering questions about it haha.
Hey man i was wondering whats the original esc. Nd if possible to put a bit of an upgrade esc on the original brushed motor before it burns out. Thanks for the vids. Cant wait to get mine
I mean the ESC has the transmitter integrated in it so to change the esc you’d need a new transmitter and receiver as well just so you know. But yea I don’t see why you couldn’t use the original motor with a new ESC for brushed motors.
Thanks
Nice video man! Saddly my 10428 has a diferent dront diff so i will have to make something diferent.
Tell me what you will do or did.
@@NoSirAnder19 I used some "L" brackets, using existing bolts. Were the original suspension bolts to the car, the. Bolted the shocks to that L bracket!
@@gerekappo nice, pretty simple.
How’s the flex with the new shock tower set up?
Excellent video. I am going to do this. Can you tell me the size of the shocks needed from hole to hole for the front? 68mm? Thank you!
AMW 47 - I used cheap Chinese oil shocks that are made to be direct replacements for the stock 12428 shocks so whatever the length is of the stock shock should be fine, somewhere around 58mm. 68mm would probably be too much and would probably lift the front to the point where the angle of the front arms would be too aggressive leading to bent driveshafts and chewed up dog bone diff cups. I’ve found a lower ride hight is really a lot better for better longevity of those parts so I make sure my rod ends are screwed onto the shock shaft as far as they go. The shocks I used should be in the description below.
Hey bro, in other video, I saw how a guy, change the shocks for an piggybacks shocks, do you know about those upgrade whit piggybacks this 12428? Greetings
On the rear? Yea I actually have piggyback shocks installed. Linked em in the description of this video but yea they fit right in just needed to use the included spacer that comes with the shocks and you also need to use longer screws because of the spacers and will need washers to hold it all in. You will also want the traxxas 2742x rod ends because the ones that come with the shocks will break because the bushing holding the ball joint pops out easily and the Traxxas rod end will also shorten the shock hole to hole a little bit which is needed because the shocks are a little long for the 12428 and may stress the joints on your driveshaft. Just make sure to tighten the new traxxas rod ends all the way onto the shock shaft and make sure to pick the 100mm shock and NOT the 110mm shock.
@@AszBall What size are the screws? 2.5mm?
hey nice vid. from what rc is that shock tower?
Should have parts in the video description
Hey, did you have to drill holes in the lower suspension arms to attach the shock to or do the aluminum ones come with a hole predrilled? Were the shocks you used the stock shocks that come with the car?
Eric Hess - If you’re talking about where to attach the bottom of the shock after this mod then yes there is already a hole in both the stock and upgraded aluminum arms it’s where the original solid link used to go that you no longer need after doing this modification. And yes the stock shocks will fit with this mod but I used different shocks that I linked in the description. They are essentially the same exact shock but more aluminum and will hold oil.
Ok thanks..ordered the tower..this is much needed..front shocks basically useless now..flips alot. I've got mine upgraded to brushless and all metal gears and bigger metal gear servo. Having a problem with cogging..womt start on a hill. Would dropping to a 15T pinion help? Waiting on a program card..should I increase or decrease the punch to help cogging?
Eric Hess - A brushless motor the same size as the original brushed motor shouldn’t cog too bad I wouldn’t think. I started with the smaller 2838 which cogged and had trouble getting started, then got the 3650(same size as stock 540 brushed motor but brushless) and that had almost no cogging. Then upgraded again to the Sensored brushless(listed in description) and absolutely no cogging and can even super slow speed crawl over obstacles like a brushed motor no problem. To fix your cogging lowering pinion could help but the motor position isn’t adjustable, unless you’ve customized it so that it is, and using a smaller gear without adjusting the motor position would strip your gears due to a bad gear mesh. The other options are if you got the smaller brushless system upgrade to the 3650 with compatible ESC or if you have the 3650 already than a lower KV 3650 could possibly benefit you?
I put in a 3650 4300kv motor. So a lower kv could help? The esc is not great. 60A goolrc. Thinking bout upgrading. What about adjusting punch?
Eric Hess - Doubt adjusting the punch would help, I think a 60A is appropriate for a 3650 and yea 4300KV may be what’s causing the cogging. I dunno for a fact that lowering the KV will fix the issue but what I do know is higher KV is for higher speed and lower KV is for more torque and cogging happens at low speeds and from a stop so I would assume adding torque would fix the issue. Also what battery you running? If you’re running 2s Lipo then you could lower the KV to 3600ish KV and bump up to 3s Lipo and you would greatly improve torque while maintaining top speed. Also try googling If lowering KV will lessen cogging issues cuz like I said I’m no expert I’ve just troubleshot a lot of issues in similar areas with this car so it’s my educated guess at best. But yea I think 3200-3600KV for 3s is a good place to be.
Hey! I was wondering if you could help. I did the shock tower mount upgrade a few days ago rans super good no issues worked awesome. Then yesterday y modded the camber rods to make them “adjustable” and now one of the rods from the front diff comes loose under stress cant figure out why
Trailtellers - I believe that is an m2.5 screw holding that in and the plastic hole in the diff is probably getting stripped not holding the screw in but the hole will accept a much longer screw to hold the camber link in so I would just take the screw out go to the nearest hobby shop and ask them to get you the same screw but like 4mm longer. Even if that doesn’t work And the hole is stripped all the way through you could still potentially get a screw long enough to go all the way through the back end and put a nut on the other end. I bought a box of m2.5 screws in assorted lengths from AliExpress and it’s been a huge help if I find a screw that keeps getting loose I usually just use a longer one and it holds better. In plastic longer screws means more threads so less chance of stripping when tightening and more friction to prevent backing out. Hopefully I understood your problem correctly and this helped.
What is the shock tower use to that sir??
The WLToys metal gears are garbage and wear like crazy. There is one set that says "powdered metal". Are yours holding up OK, especially under brushless power? I know many of us have this buggy, but the 12402 addresses a lot of this buggy's issues - and there are many.
I tried the 1/18 shock tower a long time ago. The problem I saw was that you have to slot the front mounting holes and that left very little material. The screws were also short and adding the thickness of the tower makes them almost useless.
john niziurski - For the slotting the holes issue if you file the bottom of the center of the tower it dropps the whole tower down to where the holes line up with the diff so no need to slot the holes, and if you use the aluminum tower even with less material it should hold up. And for the hardware yea you definitely need longer screws. My diff gears are holding up ok but I have noticed that there are different metal gears out there, one set I got looks like cheap ass pot metal for sure and was not really too magnetic and I put those gears in my kids still brushed 12428 and the good ones that would stick to a magnet and were noticeably heavier and felt much stronger I put in my brushless 12428 and I’ve only broke one of those gears so far and there wasn’t any wear on the teeth or anything and it broke in a weird place. The main ring gear broke off the little collar where one of the diff bearings slide on to otherwise it was still in great shape, looks like absolutely no wear and they had been run a lot and hard. The good gears I got from gearbest and think I got the link in the description, think a got a good set from AliExpress as well. FYI the good ones I’ve got so far are a dingy brass color while the crappy ones are a light shiny silver.
K Yammo Good to know about the distinction in color. For the steering, a couple of us used the bell crank steering from a Traxxas Rustler. It required jumping through some hoops, like relocating and turning the servo 90 Degrees. It’s a big improvement, but not for the feint of heart. What are you doing to secure the rear of the body? I tried a set of magnetic mounts, but eventually just went back to using a 1.5 MM rod through the square holes where other bodies use posts. It’s simple and cheap.
john niziurski - Not sure what you mean by the rear of the body, I still use all the original screws to attach the body to the chassis. But as for the steering yea I’ve done a lot to the steering, first went with a 15kg full size servo which turned out to be a little less difficult to install than I would have thought but then I decided to go bellcrank which was much more difficult and I had to put a smaller servo back in because the bellcrank took up a good amount of space. I just updated my video description so both steering upgrade videos are linked if you wanna check em out. If you do check out the bellcrank vid let me know how the bellcrank setup I got compares to yours.
K Yammo My body pivots off the front two screws going into the lime green thing that’s like a bumper. There is no way I’m dealing with screws any time I want to work on mine. Like I said, I hold the back down with a single rod. I’ll have to check out your steering mods.
Did you lock diffs
I jammed the rear diff full of silicone ear plug so not “locked” but pretty close to it. Think I left the front open don’t quite remember.
Cause the stock shock is foulty.. Iwant to to that sir. Can u tell me what what is that shock tower u use?..
Johnmark Lucing - it’s a shock tower that goes to a Wltoys a959. There should be a link in the description.
@@AszBall ok tnx sir...
What size of tires you put in this buggy? Thanks
Pretty much everything on the car is listed in the video description. The wheels are “Cheap” Chinese knockoff Vanquish 1.9” wheels. I say “cheap” but they are kinda pricey at a little over $30 for the set of four but they are relatively inexpensive compared to the genuine Vanquish wheels which would run over $120 for the set of four. If you get them I would get the extended offset hubs for them too, gives you a wider stance making it a little more stable. All that and the tires should be in the description. If I remember correctly the tires are 108mm in diameter and if you get the wheels that I got, then you can find a ton of tires that fit a 1.9” wheel but I wouldn’t get anything over 108mm or I think it would start looking kinda goofy in my opinion. Think I got newer videos of this car that show the new tires I got that are 105mm if I’m remembering correctly that I like better but these you could find if you just google 1.9” super Swampers. Think I got em on Amazon or AliExpress but like I said all that should be in the description.
@@AszBall thank you so much for the info. Im going to change the wheels because the stock wheels can't get through,the buggy easily get hang on small rocks.😁😁😁
What the difference to stock setup? I had issue in stock setup that all blocked in half way how did You mentioned but I just used "oil" on each joint, movable connection and all gone. Would like to understand benefit of this mod. If shock is still the same so shouldn't be any difference in shock absorbance with tower or with stock setup.
klaszczbass - I don’t know why it works so much better but it does. I can put on the stock shocks on this shock tower and it would work better as well without oil. If I mentioned “oil” in the video it’s because the shocks I use have oil in them instead of air but that does not help with the sagging problem it helps dampen or slow down the shock absorption when the vehicle hits a bump or lands from a jump which is supposed to make it less bouncy but really on shock this small I don’t even notice the difference. Mechanically speaking I wouldn’t think the stock setup would cause so much friction it causes the droop but it must because I really couldn’t get the stock setup to work right while the shock tower setup never seems to have any issues.
@@AszBall by oil I meant myself and usage oil as lubricant for all movable joints it wasn't addressed to You, sorry for that. Another questions, if tower is so good , what is your advice ... To change and add tower and leave stock shocks, or not to add tower and change to oil shocks?
klaszczbass - if you oiled the joints and the shocks work well then there is no real reason to do this mod. If your shocks still sag then yes this mod will help.
What shock tower use.?
Ahmad Fadlan - shock tower to the WLToys a959. Link is in the description.
мне больно от передней подвески вся фишка ушла
“Ahhh”
Just got mine upgraded using your video..sooo much better! Thanks
drive.google.com/file/d/1uiQb8DaWfdrb9rPg9j8wFs4v7qBHGqkU/view?usp=drivesdk
Eric Hess - Nice! Good to hear the video helped, that’s why I made it so good to hear that it’s helped someone. The link didn’t work though think the access isn’t set up to be viewed by just anyone.
drive.google.com/file/d/1uiQb8DaWfdrb9rPg9j8wFs4v7qBHGqkU/view?usp=drivesdk
That work?
Tried the 3s and all hell broke loose..by that I mean spur gear became detached from driveshaft and rear driveshaft became detached from rear axle pinion. Took whole thing apart including rear diff and and lock tighted the hell out of every connection I could find..let's hope it holds!
Eric Hess - Yea link works now and yup that shock tower looks familiar hahaha. Yea had problems with the grub screws coming loose so I started to use use red loctite, know that’s supposed to be impossible to take out later without like heating the screw up but on these small grub screws I haven’t had an issue just holds tighter than blue but not super semi permanent like it would be on a larger bolt. I also have MIP hex bits that are super quality tools, strong metal and super precise fit which means less likely to strip a screw or the hex head and I can put in some good torque on the screw without having to worry about stripping anything. But yea good lookin 12428 brotha.
Thanks man..slowly upgrading to the aluminum parts..got most of the front end done..haven't done any rear aluminum yet. Have had lots of issues with screws coming loose so I'm using blue locktite now..hopefully helps. Just got program card for esc so jumped up the acceleration and the low end power so hopefully helps with the cogging, haven't driven it yet..had it all apart the last few days. Will let you know how ot drives..will try to link a video. Thanks again.
How does the body fit with this mod?
moo moo - no issues the shock tower fits under the body fine without having to make any modifications to the body.