@@serdiezv The chainset alone is more expensive than a whole single speed bike! if you want to do it on a budget, you simply shorten the chain, buy a bmx cog, harvest some spacers from old worn own cassettes and there you go. 5 bucks.
10:05 my understanding with chain tension, especially on a conversion like this video is that a chain tensioner wont help that specific issue. The way the front gear pulls the chain, all the tension pulling on the rear gear and the rear wheel comes from the top side of the chain. Even with horizontal dropouts, unless you have one of those track bike rearward facing dropout screws that prevents the wheel from coming forward over time, you are going to have to re-tension your chain every so often, in my experience maybe every 100-150 miles. The reason to run a tensioner is to prevent bumps and josltes from unseating the chain on the front ring, or to make up slack from a poorly chosen chain length. I'd like to see a Manon video about correctly seating rear wheels in fixed gear bikes. Both chain tension as well professional vs home methods of accurately centering the rear wheel in the dropouts. Great content as always though, thanks GCN.
This is so typical of a road bike to SS conversion 😁 - I've built about 5 SS or FG bikes over the last few years and each time you start it saying "I'll only need XYZ..." and before you know it you're cutting and bending springs from old gear calipers to put in the long drop ones, the chainrings are the wrong BCD and you're ordering your third chain. I have to say freehub and chain tensioner system is the easiest way - recommend the Shimano Alfine tensioner (usually on hub geared bikes, operates like a fixed rear derailleur with 2 jockey wheels), I have an old CAADX which has this drivetrain. Otherwise any frame with horizontal dropouts and a flip-flop hub is the way to go. I have had a Dolan Pre-Cursa for years, after playing around with steel frames - I have used it as a courier, to commute to work, even to ride London-Brussels and now finally I'm using it on a Velodrome and it's still going strong. I think I've changed the chain once in 3 years.
I have both the Surly track flipflop (120mm) & the Surly Ssp hub (135mm) either can be made to work for your purpose, but both will require a bit of bodging. On the single speed hub a english threaded lockring from a left side adjustable BB cup can be used as a lock nut if the track cog is narrow enough & 5 mm of extra width seems able to be spread into the rear Dropout w/out damage. THe track hub can have cone locknuts added for extra width & a BMX freewheel will work without a problem. I used the track hub for my Tracklocross wheel build.
Did the same thing to my late 80s Ciocc steel road bike which I spent all my pocket money on back in the day :) I was still growing when I bought it, so the frame is probably a size to small now but it still makes a sweet fast-rolling town-bike and I like the fact I am still using the bike after all those years....
Looks a bit funny to have a chain tensioner on a horizontal dropout.. Also you could just flip that stem for a rad aggressive track look. Not the right size I suppose but it would look sweet!
I run a Shimano Nexus chain on my single speed city bike, it’s slightly less efficient than other chains but it’s built to lasy with minimal maintenance and is decently cheap
Really authentic feel to this content. Thx. Why not put coaster brake rear hub on it? Cleaner lines without rear brake cables. Legally, still need second brake, but a short cable emergency one on front rim can be unobtrusive.
Mate! Love this ride! I do wish the rear spacing allowed for a fixed hub... I think with those dropouts you could totally run fixed with the right rear wheel!
Ollie, can you please explore and explain the "unicorn gear" in the next video and maybe try to find it for your bike? (the one that doesn't require tensioner and works with vertical drops). Thanks!
The clue is in the name, the combo that will work is a rare as unicorns. If you do manage to find a ridable one, chain wear/stretch will have it bounce off over time. Save the headache & get a chain tensioner for Ssp or another frame for a fixie.
@@MAGAIVER or an eccentric bottom bracket. Its not going to be possible to use the chain tensioner after building a flip flop wheel with a fixed sprocket.
it's really simple: just try it, basically the only variables are chainstay length, and whether that means you'll need odd or even cog sizes. I like to run 44t up front and 16t in the back, but on some bikes that combination might make the chain too loose, even with a half link in the chain or an entire half link chain, you might never be able to get the chain tension right, so by going up a tooth on the back, you make the chain tighter, and you'll have correct tension. So some of my bikes are 44/16 and some are 44/17- i always run half link chains
As others have said, a chain tug would be a practical solution to the slipping rear axle. Oli - be aware that your choice of flip flop hub in a 130mm (road frame) width is extremely limited. The 120mm track width ones aren't exactly easy to find these days either. I suggest you start with the classic FG gearing of 42x16 (or 48x18) as parts are a little easier to find. The temptation is to go "macho" with the gears, but you can spin nicely up to 25mph. With your proposed 45T front ring, I suspect that 17T rear is best; you might want to go 16T but that will compromise your knees and climbing ability somewhat. Further reference material is available on LFGSS. Finally (!) I would suggest using a ruler to check chainline, rather than eyeballing.
An idea for the chain tensioner is the Surly Tuggnut or similar item SE Bikes makes one. The use of these type of tensioners is more common on BMX bikes
Looks really cool. Love the simplicity and clean lines of a single-speed. I’ve got a Cinelli, bought it as a winter hack but now utterly love it, and it’s hard as nails so great for dependability. More than anything else though, single-speed is a great cycling experience. Unless you choose the wrong ratio for your area 😀
Nice crankset. I have the exact same chainring for my track bike. Don't have the GCN/Manon hookups though, so running a 165mm Omnium. Would love to get the DA crankset one day though.
Don't worry about your ratio, if you've got a 52 in the front, you can put a 13 cog up to 22. Your ratio can vary a lot without having to change the chainring. I'm telling you this because I happen to have the exact same crankset with the same 52 chainring. Even if the BCD is the same, a non Dura Ace chainring will be really ugly on this crankset.
its looking good, have you looked at 1/2 link chain then you might get the good fit, also easier to get the brakes to line up easier, also if you are worried about pulling the wheel you could use some tensioners, good for setting tesion and prevent axle moving forward.
We have a great piece of tech that allows us to regulate torque output very nicely & efficiently. Noone in their right mind would waste money on building and riding a single speed.
@Angelina OfDeath riding fixed is fun. i have ridden road and fixed in an urban environment for 7 years now. i own one road bike and two brakeless fixed gears. i have left the road bike to collect dust because of how much more i enjoy fixed geared over road cycling. the rush of adrenaline and the feeling of "in-tuneness" surpasses any feeling of road cycling i've experienced. on top of that, i feel im even more careful and spatially aware because i have no brakes to rely on.
@@YourBBQ I have ridden both & in fact all of my childhood bikes were single speed. I can't even begin to talk about the disadvantages, most obvious being that you have to spend energy to slow down & the need to be extra more careful especially in traffic because it simply is more dangerous. People really just want something different & pretend fixed-single are magic or something and that's all. Like a "side bike" they enjoy trashing, while their "real" bicycles stay crisp clean. There's not even any fundamental difference between single speed and a geared bicycle where you don't shift. Ridiculous trend indeed.
why are you looking at cycling so objectively? if i were to consider all of the mentioned factors that make fixed gear cycling less efficient, i wouldnt even own one in the first place. cycling is supposed to be fun and enjoyable for the rider, is it not? what is considered fun to me probably isnt fun to you - i consider fixed gear riding more fun than road cycling. stop gatekeeping the bike community with your elitist views and be more open-minded and happy that people are cycling, even if it's in different disciplines.
OLLIE! Did You forget what You lerned while preparing for your Hour Of Power? If You have a 52t front chain ring then just get a bigger cog for the rear. AND! It is suppousedly better for You (the raider).
When building your wheelset watch out you get a hub with 130mm spacing or one with proper spacers from 120 to 130mm. The H+Son Archetype Rims are great for a Fixie (pretty wide rim width) or a more classic rim like the Mavic Open Pros with some gumwall tires 👌🏼 The Dura Ace 7710 Crankset is great, especially with a Road BB with sealed bearings. It's super smooth, i ride it too :)
@@leebridgwater What are you smoking dude...they quit making that crap for a reason. Unless you enjoy sheering your cranks off and creaky bottom brackets after 1000 miles.
On my fixed gear i have a 48T chainring and a 14T cog and it's a really good ratio for climbing and for flat area and i suggest the wheelset a budget meal yet a good quality like legend or rinpoch rw565 and i suggest on the stem a 100 or higher no. And its on a -17 degrees so more aero for the chain i think a shimano peanut chain its good and reliable
@@markrushton1516 well its just an average you just need a bit more practice my real ratio is 58t x 13t thats my track bike ratio it hard yet its my morning practice
You don’t need the chain tensioner with track dropouts and wheel nuts. It’s only required with classic dropouts since they go vertically and not horizontally. Track dropouts allow you to pull the wheel further back to tension the chain, then you screw the nuts as hard as you can and it won’t move. You don’t have that option with classic road dropouts unless you happen to find the perfect ratio/chain length for your specific frame.
Also, be sure that the size of your chain chain links, your sprocket teeth and your ring teeth match. Even for track parts there are different sizes. I’d go for an Izumi Jet Black chain (best there is for a « commuter » track bike since it’s tough sturdy as hell, or go for the Super Toughness if you can afford it) and a nice Dura Ace sprocket
They will work fine if maintained. Not really an affordable option for retrofitting though. Most frame builders/repairers can replace your dropouts at must less expense, plus Track Dropouts are a great look.
I think that chain tensioner is going to spoil the fixie, IMHO. Back in the 60s I used to ride time trials on a fixie without a chain tensioner, (which probably hadn't been invented back then), and the wheels were held in place by wing nuts. I only once had a problem. In my first 12 hour TT, it rained all morning and the chain might've stretched. Anyway, after about 10 hours, the chain jumped off and jammed hard between the sprocket and the spokes.
I have a few things I’ve done to make these projects work. Apologies if I missed that someone had already pointed them out. The first is the unicorn or magic gear. Use this calculator www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html to work out a usable gear ratio for vertical dropouts or in your case fully forward. I once made a 48x20 fixie work using a frame with vertical dropouts. The chain was tight but not for long! On measuring, the eyeballing of chain line is not accurate enough. Get out the calipers and work out the distance from centre of seattube to chainring and centre of rear dropouts (65mm) to dropout so you can line up the cog perfecta mundo. You could have used the original crankset using a free hub geared wheel on the outside if measuring is correct. But the Dura Ace is way cooler. Next, for cup and cone bearing hubs you can replace the hollow QR axle with a solid one. For a 130mm or 135mm rear dropout you can get a 187mm rear axle from wheels manufacturing. Shimano also do solid long axles for their cheaper oem bikes. And finally a brilliant flip flop hub choice is the White Industries eccentric rear hub, the Eno. You get more gear options for your short dropouts on the Cervelo. Their track singlespeed freewheels are worth the money for the sound they make alone. Only thing with a flip flop is you can’t alter chainline very easily. Make sure you check yours v the flip flop manufacturer specs. Good luck.
So perhaps the next vid will be Ollie's arrival at the office tomorrow, wearing a suit and waiting to be called into the boss' office and coloring between the lines as he thinks up a good excuse for what happened with the chain. Sometimes, it ain't easy being Ollie.
Wow. My crankset when I painted my bike and had to remove stuff spined like wayyyy longer than yours Ollie! It seems like yours is almost rubbish compared to mine (not to say yours is bad, mine is just very good for some reason), thats how good mine spun...😂
Is there a single speed conversion kit now for Shimano Micro Spline I wonder? I’ve been looking online to no avail. Nice cranks from Manon by the way Doc. I’m a fan of Dura Ace track cranks. I love those silver Zipp Course bars matching the frame colors for the “Ultraman” color scheme. I’m tempted to try those on my road bike along with a silver Zipp Course stem for my white CAAD12. I’m sure it’ll match the silver Shimano R7000 too
Why dont you get a 1/8 half link chain and some mks/sugino dropout chain tensioners? Then you can get an even cleaner look and not worry about chain tension.
i feel that the chain tensioner is quite redundant as your cervelo has a vertical dropout if i am not mistaken could have made your bike lighter without the extra tensioner and chain
Start out with brakes attached, on flat pedals with no straps or anything to lock you in the pedals. Then just ride. I'm assuming you have ridden a bike before, not too much difference besides the slowing down process. You will quickly find yourself wanting toeclips or straps, I would suggest some form of retaining system pretty soon to get rid of the habit of using the brakes. But for the first tests I think it's best to be able to get your feet off the pedals asap. From slow speeds, try to resist the pedals until you stop. I found it easier with a slightly lower saddle than on a road bike to allow for better movement on the bike. Fixed gear riding is all about predicting future, slowing down early and picking a correct line to avoid pedal strikes is key. You'll figure it out in no time. The difference between the first and second ride is already massive, after a week everything was already pretty natural to me. Don't be scared, just try it. It's more fun than riding a road bike imo.
@@steezymtb5876 Naw. Start with removing the brakes and ride with a freewheel. Your only brake is raising your leg like a dog taking a piss and jamming your shoe into the rubber. Once you get good at that, you can ride anything.
@@WtfTH-cam_YouSuck hardly makes it any less scary. They said they are too scared to try fixed gear riding, I'd rather have them eased into this beautiful thing that is fixed gear riding than thrown into the deep end, have an accident and be another opponent of the greatest form of cycling. Hopefully your virtual balls allow for you to also be encouraging rather than make people shy away from the discipline.
This bike was really easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
@@WtfTH-cam_YouSuck S. F is a city with insane cycling infrastructure and wide open spaces, northern English towns are not 😂 that and it's illegal here soooo 🤷♂️
You definitely have to change the hub because this solution is really bad compared to the quality of your crankset. Just look at the quality of the sprocket, it's really not solid! Otherwise, I have a little advice for you: if you can't get a perfect tension because of the length of your dropouts, use half links (yes those on BMX chains).You will be 100% sure to have a correct tension and you will finally be able to remove this bad chain tensioner system.
Can also use a Shimano BMX sprocket + spacers salvaged from a couple of old cassettes. The BMX sprocket has the same spline pattern and slides right on the freehub body.
What a nonsense - as soon as you start messing around with a chain tensioner, you may as well keep the rear derailleur & just junk the front one. This will keep it looking 'cleaner'; have a down tube change & make a far more practical bike!
I love all the low budget builds with a 300€ crankset 😁😉🤙🏻
On a £1000 frameset.
He practically spent 0 dollars/quids tho
All parts where just lying around or came from another bike build
lol
@@Llrekrab that is budget when you're talking about a road bike though. A mid-range road bike frame set is roughly $2,000/2,000€.
Dura Ace Track Chainset budget build. Got it. Lol
The thing is, how much is this stuff costing him? He already had the Cervélo frame, so that's £0 for the frame. Pretty budget friendly if you ask me.
@@serdiezv The chainset alone is more expensive than a whole single speed bike! if you want to do it on a budget, you simply shorten the chain, buy a bmx cog, harvest some spacers from old worn own cassettes and there you go. 5 bucks.
@@chrisko6439 he didn't pay for the chainring either, it was his friend's that he lent to Ollie
Please do a series of video raiding all the GCN presenters parts bin... especially Jon's! 😁
Not enough time.
@@JonCannings 7 part series, one hour each episode. :)
I think Jon's parts bin show alone would be like a season of 24.
More fixed gear and track content please. GCN has already inspired me to tackle RADRACE in the coming year.
Really loving the roadie perspective on fixed gear.
10:05 my understanding with chain tension, especially on a conversion like this video is that a chain tensioner wont help that specific issue. The way the front gear pulls the chain, all the tension pulling on the rear gear and the rear wheel comes from the top side of the chain. Even with horizontal dropouts, unless you have one of those track bike rearward facing dropout screws that prevents the wheel from coming forward over time, you are going to have to re-tension your chain every so often, in my experience maybe every 100-150 miles. The reason to run a tensioner is to prevent bumps and josltes from unseating the chain on the front ring, or to make up slack from a poorly chosen chain length. I'd like to see a Manon video about correctly seating rear wheels in fixed gear bikes. Both chain tension as well professional vs home methods of accurately centering the rear wheel in the dropouts. Great content as always though, thanks GCN.
True
All this fancy equipment and he still can't pump up a tire at the end
its a 25mm. doesnt fit. changing it for a 23
He's changing the back wheel anyways.
Doesn't fit frame. Ollie's not thought this through at all. We've all done it I suppose, shame we don't all get paid for it, ha ha.
@@GCNuser123 23mm max tire clearance specific frame, fits 25 *....
This is so typical of a road bike to SS conversion 😁 - I've built about 5 SS or FG bikes over the last few years and each time you start it saying "I'll only need XYZ..." and before you know it you're cutting and bending springs from old gear calipers to put in the long drop ones, the chainrings are the wrong BCD and you're ordering your third chain.
I have to say freehub and chain tensioner system is the easiest way - recommend the Shimano Alfine tensioner (usually on hub geared bikes, operates like a fixed rear derailleur with 2 jockey wheels), I have an old CAADX which has this drivetrain.
Otherwise any frame with horizontal dropouts and a flip-flop hub is the way to go. I have had a Dolan Pre-Cursa for years, after playing around with steel frames - I have used it as a courier, to commute to work, even to ride London-Brussels and now finally I'm using it on a Velodrome and it's still going strong. I think I've changed the chain once in 3 years.
I have both the Surly track flipflop (120mm) & the Surly Ssp hub (135mm) either can be made to work for your purpose, but both will require a bit of bodging. On the single speed hub a english threaded lockring from a left side adjustable BB cup can be used as a lock nut if the track cog is narrow enough & 5 mm of extra width seems able to be spread into the rear Dropout w/out damage. THe track hub can have cone locknuts added for extra width & a BMX freewheel will work without a problem. I used the track hub for my Tracklocross wheel build.
Jesus can someone get Ollie some nitrile gloves that actually fit him!
Pffft gloves. How are you meant to prove that work on your own bike without cuts and grease on your hands?
Just got my first fixie. rode it to work and I gotta say I was very impressed. Starting to see why people like to ride them.
Ok, so tell us more: why do people like to ride them?
I want to see you bombing hills on a fixie like in MASH SF
Did the same thing to my late 80s Ciocc steel road bike which I spent all my pocket money on back in the day :) I was still growing when I bought it, so the frame is probably a size to small now but it still makes a sweet fast-rolling town-bike and I like the fact I am still using the bike after all those years....
This feels like a real build waiting for parts, getting a little more each week
Looks a bit funny to have a chain tensioner on a horizontal dropout..
Also you could just flip that stem for a rad aggressive track look. Not the right size I suppose but it would look sweet!
Ollie, I'm sorry, but it's Spannung with ʃ (sh)
Thinking about it...it's within the realm of many of us to be able to cobble together a wintery commuter single speed beast like this isn't it.
Starting to look slick.
I run a Shimano Nexus chain on my single speed city bike, it’s slightly less efficient than other chains but it’s built to lasy with minimal maintenance and is decently cheap
Beautiful frame that is for a track/single speed and colors match nicely with the crankset n handlebar.
Bought a single chainring gravel bike and needed to by a chain guide to stop the chain jumping off the ring 👍
You should have buy a narrow wide chain ring for 1x to prevent falling mate
@@s1mpleniko488 cheers, it came with the Shimano GRX groupset. Just reading an article about narrow wide chainrings 👍
dura ace makes chainrings for wide 1/8 track chains and for 3/32 11s chains too
Oh you should put that vision rim onto a flip flop/track hub! that would be awesome :D
Really authentic feel to this content. Thx. Why not put coaster brake rear hub on it? Cleaner lines without rear brake cables. Legally, still need second brake, but a short cable emergency one on front rim can be unobtrusive.
Mate! Love this ride! I do wish the rear spacing allowed for a fixed hub... I think with those dropouts you could totally run fixed with the right rear wheel!
There are fixed hubs that will fit that frame. Theres even a fixed/disc brake rear hub from Paul Components.
it is possible if u do have some axle spacers and a longer axle
Think the uber deluxe Phil Wood do axle spacers to allow 120mm hubs to fit
Ollie, can you please explore and explain the "unicorn gear" in the next video and maybe try to find it for your bike? (the one that doesn't require tensioner and works with vertical drops).
Thanks!
also depends on the length of chainstays...
The clue is in the name, the combo that will work is a rare as unicorns. If you do manage to find a ridable one, chain wear/stretch will have it bounce off over time. Save the headache & get a chain tensioner for Ssp or another frame for a fixie.
@@GeekonaBike you could also use an eccentric rear hub like the White Industries ENO.
@@MAGAIVER or an eccentric bottom bracket. Its not going to be possible to use the chain tensioner after building a flip flop wheel with a fixed sprocket.
it's really simple: just try it, basically the only variables are chainstay length, and whether that means you'll need odd or even cog sizes. I like to run 44t up front and 16t in the back, but on some bikes that combination might make the chain too loose, even with a half link in the chain or an entire half link chain, you might never be able to get the chain tension right, so by going up a tooth on the back, you make the chain tighter, and you'll have correct tension. So some of my bikes are 44/16 and some are 44/17- i always run half link chains
A half link chain would allow you to eliminate the chain tensioner.
8:50 I think it's a sign you need a gold chain !! 😀 👍
As others have said, a chain tug would be a practical solution to the slipping rear axle. Oli - be aware that your choice of flip flop hub in a 130mm (road frame) width is extremely limited.
The 120mm track width ones aren't exactly easy to find these days either.
I suggest you start with the classic FG gearing of 42x16 (or 48x18) as parts are a little easier to find. The temptation is to go "macho" with the gears, but you can spin nicely up to 25mph.
With your proposed 45T front ring, I suspect that 17T rear is best; you might want to go 16T but that will compromise your knees and climbing ability somewhat.
Further reference material is available on LFGSS.
Finally (!) I would suggest using a ruler to check chainline, rather than eyeballing.
It's clean now, yay!
An idea for the chain tensioner is the Surly Tuggnut or similar item SE Bikes makes one. The use of these type of tensioners is more common on BMX bikes
Looks really cool. Love the simplicity and clean lines of a single-speed. I’ve got a Cinelli, bought it as a winter hack but now utterly love it, and it’s hard as nails so great for dependability. More than anything else though, single-speed is a great cycling experience. Unless you choose the wrong ratio for your area 😀
Nice crankset. I have the exact same chainring for my track bike. Don't have the GCN/Manon hookups though, so running a 165mm Omnium. Would love to get the DA crankset one day though.
Don't worry about your ratio, if you've got a 52 in the front, you can put a 13 cog up to 22. Your ratio can vary a lot without having to change the chainring. I'm telling you this because I happen to have the exact same crankset with the same 52 chainring. Even if the BCD is the same, a non Dura Ace chainring will be really ugly on this crankset.
Totally agree. He should keep that chainring and use a bigger cog in the rear. I'm guessing a 52/18 or 19 would be perfect for what he wants.
Mavic 500 for the front hub, Mavic open pro wheels & Hoshi Z-bend bladed spokes.
I was going to say you'll never push the gear Manon gave you. 🦵
52-16, 52-17, 52-18, 52-19, and 52-20 are all great ratios/gear inches for city riding. Plus 52s look way cooler than some tiny ass bike packing ring.
I ride all over with a 56-16, its plenty unless you have >15% grades
@@WtfTH-cam_YouSuck if you live in a fairly flat city? Yeah. I wouldn't want a 52 living in Porto.
its looking good, have you looked at 1/2 link chain then you might get the good fit, also easier to get the brakes to line up easier, also if you are worried about pulling the wheel you could use some tensioners, good for setting tesion and prevent axle moving forward.
Ollie. If you use a half link chain you can get more precise adjustability for the rear wheel.
We have a great piece of tech that allows us to regulate torque output very nicely & efficiently. Noone in their right mind would waste money on building and riding a single speed.
can bet that both of you havent ridden fixed or even single speed
@Angelina OfDeath riding fixed is fun.
i have ridden road and fixed in an urban environment for 7 years now. i own one road bike and two brakeless fixed gears. i have left the road bike to collect dust because of how much more i enjoy fixed geared over road cycling.
the rush of adrenaline and the feeling of "in-tuneness" surpasses any feeling of road cycling i've experienced. on top of that, i feel im even more careful and spatially aware because i have no brakes to rely on.
@@YourBBQ I have ridden both & in fact all of my childhood bikes were single speed. I can't even begin to talk about the disadvantages, most obvious being that you have to spend energy to slow down & the need to be extra more careful especially in traffic because it simply is more dangerous. People really just want something different & pretend fixed-single are magic or something and that's all. Like a "side bike" they enjoy trashing, while their "real" bicycles stay crisp clean.
There's not even any fundamental difference between single speed and a geared bicycle where you don't shift. Ridiculous trend indeed.
why are you looking at cycling so objectively?
if i were to consider all of the mentioned factors that make fixed gear cycling less efficient, i wouldnt even own one in the first place.
cycling is supposed to be fun and enjoyable for the rider, is it not? what is considered fun to me probably isnt fun to you - i consider fixed gear riding more fun than road cycling.
stop gatekeeping the bike community with your elitist views and be more open-minded and happy that people are cycling, even if it's in different disciplines.
OLLIE! Did You forget what You lerned while preparing for your Hour Of Power? If You have a 52t front chain ring then just get a bigger cog for the rear. AND! It is suppousedly better for You (the raider).
Getting a lot of mileage out of this frame
Without it leaving his flat.
Getting even more content out of this bike.
Shame he didn't get more from the clipped cables and MTB bottom bracket. Grease looked new.
When building your wheelset watch out you get a hub with 130mm spacing or one with proper spacers from 120 to 130mm.
The H+Son Archetype Rims are great for a Fixie (pretty wide rim width) or a more classic rim like the Mavic Open Pros with some gumwall tires 👌🏼
The Dura Ace 7710 Crankset is great, especially with a Road BB with sealed bearings. It's super smooth, i ride it too :)
Sugino is more fixie points tho.
Omniums
@@leebridgwater lol no 😂 the omniums are not even close to 75 DDs or the 7710s, trust me.
@@leebridgwater What are you smoking dude...they quit making that crap for a reason. Unless you enjoy sheering your cranks off and creaky bottom brackets after 1000 miles.
@@WtfTH-cam_YouSuck haha, love the omniums
On my fixed gear i have a 48T chainring and a 14T cog and it's a really good ratio for climbing and for flat area and i suggest the wheelset a budget meal yet a good quality like legend or rinpoch rw565 and i suggest on the stem a 100 or higher no. And its on a -17 degrees so more aero for the chain i think a shimano peanut chain its good and reliable
48x14? How big are your thighs? I think 48x18 is hard enough and prefer 46x18
@@markrushton1516 well its just an average you just need a bit more practice my real ratio is 58t x 13t thats my track bike ratio it hard yet its my morning practice
You don’t need the chain tensioner with track dropouts and wheel nuts. It’s only required with classic dropouts since they go vertically and not horizontally. Track dropouts allow you to pull the wheel further back to tension the chain, then you screw the nuts as hard as you can and it won’t move. You don’t have that option with classic road dropouts unless you happen to find the perfect ratio/chain length for your specific frame.
Also, be sure that the size of your chain chain links, your sprocket teeth and your ring teeth match. Even for track parts there are different sizes. I’d go for an Izumi Jet Black chain (best there is for a « commuter » track bike since it’s tough sturdy as hell, or go for the Super Toughness if you can afford it) and a nice Dura Ace sprocket
Very good
Gates belt and hub gears , just need a split rear frame to put on a belt
Finally fixed gear speed content
Your rear dropout don't look quite long, you can use a half link chain to better adjust the chain tension, thay are common in bmx bikes
Instead of using a tensioner, what about using an eccentric bottom bracket?
Angelo price, eccentric BB’s are expensive, tensioners cost £10
They will work fine if maintained. Not really an affordable option for retrofitting though. Most frame builders/repairers can replace your dropouts at must less expense, plus Track Dropouts are a great look.
I NEED MORE!!!!!1
fixie all the way
Paul word hub will allow you to fit a flip flop in the 135 rear. A traditional fixed/flip flop is 120 rear spacing.
How about a half link chain, choose gear to suit, hub as far forward as possible and ditch the tensioner....it’ll look so much more clean
Why you use chain tensioner designed for vertical dropouts? If you have concerns about too short horizontal dropout just use half link LOL
I would guess that’s an 1/8 chainring with a 3/32 chain?
Ollie, for the flip-flop hub, use a PhilWood hub in purple color!
Not a Sugino crank for your fixie? Heresy!
i'd like to have some more ketenspannung on my keten, please!
I assumed that horizontal dropouts had limit screws which would stop the wheel being pulled forward.
I think that chain tensioner is going to spoil the fixie, IMHO. Back in the 60s I used to ride time trials on a fixie without a chain tensioner, (which probably hadn't been invented back then), and the wheels were held in place by wing nuts. I only once had a problem. In my first 12 hour TT, it rained all morning and the chain might've stretched. Anyway, after about 10 hours, the chain jumped off and jammed hard between the sprocket and the spokes.
I have a few things I’ve done to make these projects work. Apologies if I missed that someone had already pointed them out. The first is the unicorn or magic gear. Use this calculator www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html to work out a usable gear ratio for vertical dropouts or in your case fully forward. I once made a 48x20 fixie work using a frame with vertical dropouts. The chain was tight but not for long! On measuring, the eyeballing of chain line is not accurate enough. Get out the calipers and work out the distance from centre of seattube to chainring and centre of rear dropouts (65mm) to dropout so you can line up the cog perfecta mundo. You could have used the original crankset using a free hub geared wheel on the outside if measuring is correct. But the Dura Ace is way cooler. Next, for cup and cone bearing hubs you can replace the hollow QR axle with a solid one. For a 130mm or 135mm rear dropout you can get a 187mm rear axle from wheels manufacturing. Shimano also do solid long axles for their cheaper oem bikes.
And finally a brilliant flip flop hub choice is the White Industries eccentric rear hub, the Eno. You get more gear options for your short dropouts on the Cervelo. Their track singlespeed freewheels are worth the money for the sound they make alone. Only thing with a flip flop is you can’t alter chainline very easily. Make sure you check yours v the flip flop manufacturer specs. Good luck.
budget cervelo frame ?
So perhaps the next vid will be Ollie's arrival at the office tomorrow, wearing a suit and waiting to be called into the boss' office and coloring between the lines as he thinks up a good excuse for what happened with the chain. Sometimes, it ain't easy being Ollie.
Wow. My crankset when I painted my bike and had to remove stuff spined like wayyyy longer than yours Ollie! It seems like yours is almost rubbish compared to mine (not to say yours is bad, mine is just very good for some reason), thats how good mine spun...😂
Is there a single speed conversion kit now for Shimano Micro Spline I wonder? I’ve been looking online to no avail. Nice cranks from Manon by the way Doc. I’m a fan of Dura Ace track cranks. I love those silver Zipp Course bars matching the frame colors for the “Ultraman” color scheme. I’m tempted to try those on my road bike along with a silver Zipp Course stem for my white CAAD12. I’m sure it’ll match the silver Shimano R7000 too
Keep the 52 tooth chainring! Put an 18-tooth cog on the rear!!
More ACTUAL fixed gear content. And please use foot retention! GCN seems to love to forget about that. Keep it coming!
Nc build
Olly, cant find that kit for less than 35 quid. Where was yours sourced? Cheers, Don.
Why dont you get a 1/8 half link chain and some mks/sugino dropout chain tensioners? Then you can get an even cleaner look and not worry about chain tension.
i feel that the chain tensioner is quite redundant as your cervelo has a vertical dropout if i am not mistaken could have made your bike lighter without the extra tensioner and chain
also i feel that flipping that stem and slamming the steerer would be dope
how about a video on the techniques on how to ride and start out to ride a fixie. I think thy look proper cool but i am scared of them
Just ride it like you stole it...also brakes are death.
Start out with brakes attached, on flat pedals with no straps or anything to lock you in the pedals. Then just ride. I'm assuming you have ridden a bike before, not too much difference besides the slowing down process. You will quickly find yourself wanting toeclips or straps, I would suggest some form of retaining system pretty soon to get rid of the habit of using the brakes. But for the first tests I think it's best to be able to get your feet off the pedals asap.
From slow speeds, try to resist the pedals until you stop. I found it easier with a slightly lower saddle than on a road bike to allow for better movement on the bike. Fixed gear riding is all about predicting future, slowing down early and picking a correct line to avoid pedal strikes is key.
You'll figure it out in no time. The difference between the first and second ride is already massive, after a week everything was already pretty natural to me. Don't be scared, just try it. It's more fun than riding a road bike imo.
@@steezymtb5876 Naw. Start with removing the brakes and ride with a freewheel. Your only brake is raising your leg like a dog taking a piss and jamming your shoe into the rubber. Once you get good at that, you can ride anything.
@@WtfTH-cam_YouSuck hardly makes it any less scary. They said they are too scared to try fixed gear riding, I'd rather have them eased into this beautiful thing that is fixed gear riding than thrown into the deep end, have an accident and be another opponent of the greatest form of cycling. Hopefully your virtual balls allow for you to also be encouraging rather than make people shy away from the discipline.
@@steezymtb5876 some men need a nanny, some need a drill sergeant. dif. strokes
Izumi jet black chain
Don't forget to fill in the empty cable entry points into the frame.
130mm surly ultra new hub, although only in 32h or 36h, config, laced mine to dt swiss r511 rim
How about some air in that back tire?
build the wheel with a White Industries ENO hub
Is the KS Cycling Imperious good bike?
Try to keep those Vision rims and change only the hub.
Can't U convert it to nutted axle instead off quick release
6:07 - Hambini dies a bit inside watching that....
May I suggest the White Industries Freewheel? It buzzez like a swarm of hornets chasing your arse!
pls do more videos about high wheels
What did Hambini have to say about your BB spin test?
This bike was really easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Sram s500 levers are the best brake levers you can get 😍 (that aren't crazy expensive)
pssshhh...."brakes" 🙄
@Paul Wieringa so are random Chinese ones from Aliexpress 😉 for an extra £10 I'd rather get the best though
@@WtfTH-cam_YouSuck believe me where I live, you're going to need brakes 😅
@@jonnydeedoubleu tell that to fixie riders in S.F.
@@WtfTH-cam_YouSuck S. F is a city with insane cycling infrastructure and wide open spaces, northern English towns are not 😂 that and it's illegal here soooo 🤷♂️
52t is Ok on the front, just put a bigger sprocket on the back!...
What's that chain, please tell me
Learned more German from Ollie then I've learned in school.
Perhaps he should go for a german hub then. Rohloff, but then that is single sprocket but 14 speed...
You definitely have to change the hub because this solution is really bad compared to the quality of your crankset. Just look at the quality of the sprocket, it's really not solid!
Otherwise, I have a little advice for you: if you can't get a perfect tension because of the length of your dropouts, use half links (yes those on BMX chains).You will be 100% sure to have a correct tension and you will finally be able to remove this bad chain tensioner system.
Could you put a link to the SS conversion kit you featured?
Can also use a Shimano BMX sprocket + spacers salvaged from a couple of old cassettes. The BMX sprocket has the same spline pattern and slides right on the freehub body.
Izumi super toughness chain
the word budget make us feel really bad to us who live in a third world country hahaha
Eye spy a mullet
Please please please do a build up of a chinese carbon frame from Ebay!!!!
Is that a flat rear wheel? 12:16
Oh yea cervelo is such a budget bike!!! It dosent cost like $2k for just the frame...
This is a really old cervelo, they sell for a few hundred pounds in the UK
Bars off.. take it all off!
What a nonsense - as soon as you start messing around with a chain tensioner, you may as well keep the rear derailleur & just junk the front one. This will keep it looking 'cleaner'; have a down tube change & make a far more practical bike!
Budget, what is our budget here?
Step one was ‘get a Cervelo frame’ so...
£1000 frame set typical GCN pish.
I too get bullied in my own mind looking at my chimney