I had a 3.1 Isuzu bighorn that ran fine cold. After maybe 30 miles it would overheat and dump coolant into the sump. It was a hairline crack in the head. You couldn't see it, the gasket was fine and ran top notch when cold. Probably nothing like this issue but it's my tuppenceworth.
When we were doing F Ford engines, we not only used a torque plate, but we hot honed the blocks. We set up a water heater with the temperature at 230 degrees and made up fittings to circulate the water through the block, so it was up to operating temperature when we honed it- was worth a couple HP. Would be a good idea for your shop, and it could test for a crack opening up at temperature.
Can you use an electric pump to run hot water through it? Obviously going to be lower temperature than normal operating temp., but might help find the issue. Maybe run some dye in the coolant before you pull it apart and run it until it starts using water, then look through the water and oil passages for dye in a crack?
I found the perfect rattle can red for cossie cam cover years ago, bought it from a well known shop, sprayed my cover and 10yrs later it hasnt blistered, peeled, chipped or discoloured and at shows people ask where I had it done, I'd love to start a recon service now I know it lasts
Get a dye penetrant kit to spray all over the heads and blocks, it should show up any hairline cracks that aren't visible when everything is cold. Far more reliable and accurate than trying to spot a crack by eye. It's something you should have in the shop anyway for crack testing things before machining.
My 2.4L Toyota motor did this, it was a pain in my back pockets figuring it out. I did find out what it was after several hundred dollars it was a .39cent part. In the head ( Alum ) was a steel plug as the casting sand dump out port that housed the .39cent gasket. Cold fine hot different story. Alum and steel expand and contract differently causing the problem. Good luck.
If he's running high boost it sounds like it could be lifting the head and that then obviously means it dumps coolant into the block.. It's quite common for that to happen if head bolts stretch out etc. Is he running fire rings etc? Obviously when it's not on boost and it's cold the head will be tight, but as things heat up and you get on boost it just pushes it out. Might be worth looking into and possibly going down the fire ring route if he's been using it for "motor sports" 👍
@@ChrisJones555. doesn't have to be gallons to turn the oil creamy. And it wouldn't necessarily leave any water in the cylinder if its hot. You would notice super clean pistons and a tonne of smoke coming out from the exhaust. That other breather pipe theory is probably the cause though 😅
We've had a volvo in this week with a crank breather pipe split Not sure if yours is the same but the breather pipe has a coolant pipe running inside it It comes off the oil cooler
I would also like to add, that i really enjoy the contents of your vids, your a good lad behind the camera, and if you were closer, i would love to work with you, although mainly on crossflows/Lotus variants :)
Past experience with mystery water leaks into oil has led to heating water too 100c and block to surface to 60 to 70c by soaking the heat from the coolant gallery into the block. Pressure the block to just below cap blow off and inspect all oil galleries, passages and coolant areas. Do the same to oil cooler and ancillaries that might contribute, check to see if the turbo bearing block is cooled by water or the water pump seal is back blowing if gear driven. I have seen heater/water bypass or radiator blow off pipes carefully plumbed into crankcase breathers. Mystery leaks are annoying as hell. Figure out which is cheaper, him paying for the diagnostic time or the repair time and offer a discount, not the full cost on one. Any discount is good will that 99% of customers will appreciate and pass around that you were a good guy and worth the effort. Just my 2 bob’s worth. Take care and play safe.
we have had a great weekend going around a big antiques fair on Saturday as Antiques are our first passion then Sunday a ham radio fair which is my passion then watching this on Monday which is another passion at one time everything would come with all the clips and everything else but today they all watch the pennies so you have to pay for everything else .so sorry not familiar with that engine but some engines have a gasket on the exhaust that can leek water into the exhaust ports whether it is one of those engine I do not know but have a look and thanks for the video
I would swap out the oil cooler first..if the engine lays around for extended periods it’s quite possible that corrosion set in the water jackets inside the cooler and when he finally came around to running the engine the cooler is giving up the ghost when hot
I had a situation where a vehicle was mixing coolant into the oil, and when the turbo came in for me to go over, the person had used too long bolts in the oil return flange and pierced the galleries between the oil and water and coolant was ending up in the oil when the engine got hot and pressurised
For the volvo hot pressure washer watch the engine temp and use a borro scope into the cylinders and with the sump off, hot washer into cooling system, if oil n water only meet at the oil cooler and in the engine.
mate of mine had same sort of issues same enigne he noticed coolant on the drive way one day , he investigated himself nothing too visable apart from coolant running down from above the lower arms he got a mechanic to pressure test the cooling system the head gasket was ok, a leak was confirmed on pressure test and a suspected crack in the block it was loosing water / coolant more over time he got the car dealer involved under waranty (they only had the car 2 months if that) the car spent a week in the work shop at volvo main dealer they replaced the cylinder head and rebuilt the engine it was costly if im correct £4k plus from memory however the insurance or something covered the bulk of the cost he had to pay the rest. Volvo guys said its quite common the cars fine to this day
This volvo is a bit of a odd one is there oil in the radiator, as oil pressure is greater than water pressure. Fantastic chanel great to see someone who cares about there work.all the best mate 👍
On that Volvo - do the head bolt threads go into the water jacket or are they blind threaded holes? If the head bolts go in to the water jacket and there was no thread sealant that could be a source of the coolant in the oil. But if his water is literally dumping into the sump gotta closely inspect the block & heads, and oil cooler.
Hi I had a paccar 4banger in shop years ago same issue days in to it then trip over a hidden/not easy to see core plug behind timing chest which had rusted then leaked water into oil return to sump then mixed I only found it when I took sump when the engine was still hot . May be of no help but my make you think have a great day
On the Volvo does that one have a through passage on the timing cover . It's been a while but I'm thinking I had one leak between the oil feed for the tensioner and the passageway for the water pump.. as far as the oil cooler I would try and bypass it as a test, I have had some in the past show good but as soon as it would change temperature it would leak like crazy..good luck
Don't waste time and money with the oil cooler, when oil coolers go bad oil ends up in the cooling system because oil pressure is greater than the cooling system pressure. I'll usually drop the pan and look up into the crankcase to see if there are any antifreeze droplets hanging from a liner or something.
Porous has allowing water jacket to seek into oil return passages in head, hence to sump? No experience with the 5 cylinder engines, but had the same issue with a high millage B21years ago, as well as allowing high pressure combustion gases into the water jacket of head and through the cooling system.
You rebuilt my transit engine 2 yrs ago, I havent done 100,00 miles a year with it honest so can you rebuild it for me for free, I get its nice to be nice and look after customers but if they dont get it back to you within warranty it billed all the way or youre losing money, on your balance sheet it would be nice to have a collum of possible warranty claims thats cut off at the warranty date to show possible liability.
Do not give in to him, the flood gates will open. Shut happens, could have a pours head or internal crack the opens when hot. I've been here, your customer wants a replacement engine at your cost. It's out of warranty and he dismantled it, not your problem. This is the harsh side of motor vehicles, they go wrong and its no one's fault, it happens. If he cannot afford to run it buy a bicycle, your get walked on if your not careful.
Hi lee I am getting suspected spam messages from a company using your logo and saying they have a competition! Just to put you on alert about it mate ok thanks
Sorry to hear that mate. I've just reported a dodgy comment and link in the reply's . Lee if you read this I think this sort of stuff is yet another headache for you. Sorry to say.
It sounds like something hasn’t been connected/installed right on the Volvo. Or a bolt that protrudes into the water jacket hasn’t been sealed. In other words, something silly.
Well if it happens when hot, does sound like a crack expanding wide somewhere. Do you uses crack detecting blue? I think that what it's called, can't remember how it's done, a special light? Shows up the thinnest of thin cracks.
I'm always cautious when amateurs install there own engine etc. alot of companies now days void warranty if professional mechanic hasn't installed/removed, for good reason.
Could just be moisture in the crankcase, especially if it's only been used for short runs and stored in a cold place, my old Volvo used to have a bit of cream on the cap but cleared up after a good run. Did water come out before the oil when he dropped the oil?
Dave willet of Dave willet engineering does bda rockers for a xe I’m sure the same person who does Millingtons does them to a spec DW designed and developed Mine cost 560 notes 🤣
What is the impact on your business with current and predicted electricity price rises ? How much more will you need to charge for your services? Cheers.
Mine's gone up a fortune, and more to come as well, just got over covid and now this. Ultimately you have to charge the customer, which in my job will probably mean people won't bother about a dent or scratch. It's gonna be a difficult time for everyone in the trade.
Depends If your business is a bar that supplies kids on a fri sat night they are not affected as live at home with mum and dad If it’s mk2 rs2000’s then that type of owner can afford a services increase If it’s a old rover driver they just will wear a jumper Ez
If he took the head off that voided your warranty if you assembled it. Oil cooler is in the radiator. Common problem with that car/ motor. Try bypassing oiler cooler flush it out fill water and see if that water turns green after it’s at temp for a while. Might need to run a external oil cooler and just plug up the stock one.
does the Volvo have a cylinder head oil return through an external coolant to oil heat exchange plate on the end of the head like on a Renault clio RS 197 etc? Seen coolant enter the sump past the gasket into oil return when system pressurised. Also recently seen a core plug leaking under the cams inside the rocker box on a Peugeot 1.6
Don't trust him. He's had the engine apart, he's been fiddle farting about with it, he's put it back together with incorrect timing, he could have done anything. He could have gone to top the coolant up and put water in the rocker cover instead. If you do any work charge for it.
@@julianpritchard2558 The two systems don’t mix, cooling or oil types. Transmission fluid is one type of oil cooled with one cooler, usually in the radiator, using its own cooling tubes. If that cooler leaked, the transmission and/or radiator would have milky oil in it, not the engine crankcase, as Is the complaint in this video. Engine oil is another type of oil that is sometimes cooled with a second cooler in the radiator depending on the vehicle type, if it leaks, the engine crankcase and/or radiator would have milky oil in it. Some engines have the oil cooler on the side of the engine block near the oil filter housing, or even use an adapter on the oil filter housing to route engine oil to and through a cooler resembling a small radiator or heater core that uses air instead of water to cool the oil. Being that the two cooling circuits are completely separate from each other, you would never in a million years get milky engine oil from a leaking automatic transmission cooler, it just can’t happen.
@@ralfie8801 Volvo engines of the 5 cylinder variety have an engine oil cooler built into the radiator. I got 3 of them, petrol and diesel, one petrol being a T5R .
@@julianpritchard2558 Well the engine oil cooler isn’t or shouldn’t be part of the transmission cooler, they should be separate to prevent cross contamination of the two different fluids. There is the risk of one or both oils getting in the water if both coolers leak, but the transmission cooler should never put water in the engine oil. I once had a 1981 Datsun 720 King Cab Pickup with an SD 22 Diesel in it. The engine oil cooler in that one is bolted to the side of the engine block and uses the engine’s water jacket for its coolant supply. My 2007 Chevy Duramax Diesel has a similar cooler with water being fed directly to it through a pipe from the water pump. The automatic transmission has a cooler in the radiator plus an air cooled one in front of the radiator. My wife has a 2016 Chevy SS Sedan, more commonly known as a Holden Commodore with the 6.2L GM V-8. The oil cooler on that one comes out of the engine block near the oil filter and just goes through some tubing and a small finned cooling block bolted to the side of the engine under the left exhaust manifold. I also have an old GM truck with the optional oil cooler that took oil from the filter using an adapter and sent it to a heater core sized cooler behind the grille and then back to the filter adapter. There are also versions that use a cooler like the transmission cooler in the radiator, but I don’t personally own any of those. There are a lot of different ways to cool oil and transmission fluid, then there’s the power steering fluid cooler some vehicles have, also behind the grille. Have a nice rest of your evening, assuming you’re in the UK, it’s gotta be getting on to 10 ish PM? It’s 5 PM USA Central time here.
There has to be a time limit on a warranty job, no matter, I would say 12 months warranty, but if the owner doesnt fit the engine for 15 months or more, thats not your problem, its there's. your running a business, not a state welfare bottomless pit The only caveat to this, is if the customers car is not ready for the engine, perhaps you could still get paid in full, and store the engine at £5 a week ? until customer is ready, and takes said engine, and then the warranty starts at that point, so back to a proper 12 month guarantee
My old boss did something very similar. He quickly found out that customers would lapse for months on storage payment. We had a chap come in wanting his motor yet hadn't paid for 17 months! Boss finally drafted up a contract what clearly stated if no payment for six months he had right to sell or dispose (law was three months). Sounds cutthroat, but if it weren't for the chancers and villains, we wouldn't need laws so much.
I don’t disagree. But apparently this guy hasn’t put many miles on it. No good shop wants to put out bad work and then say, “sorry mate, warranty is expired”. That doesn’t create a good reputation. At least look it over and try to determine if the problem was workmanship or owner induced.
@@jeffheld3971 If i buy a TV or washing machine in Currys, today, what is the warranty ? its 12 months, so it doesnt matter wether i plug the Tv or Washing machine in today, or in 366 days time, the warranty started on the day of pick up. collection, why is an engine or gearbox, or ... any different??? I would put my house on the fact, if you tried to take something back to Currys (or any where else) after the 12 months, they will tell you to go and F off, perhaps a bit more politely !
@@stevem7868-y4l I won’t disagree with that. However, the rules of merchantability (depending on Country) has nothing to do with a warranty when the part, component, or assembly was improperly manufactured, or repaired. Example, your car warranty may be 60,000 miles or 3 years. If there was an issue with the material, process, or components, the auto manufacturer will issue a recall (they may be forced to repair those issues via threat of lawsuit or they may simply do the right thing). I’m not advocating that any business automatically bend over and take it in the shorts any time a customer sneezes. But I strongly suggest checking out their complaint in an earnest and honest manner. Let’s also be honest here; it isn’t always possible to pinpoint what went wrong or why. And only God knows all too well what some knucklehead owner does to a car or engine and then tries to pass off as poor workmanship. Furthermore, even if workmanship was the prevailing reason for a failure, there are mitigating circumstances where the customer may not have stopped operating the vehicle or did something that made an easily repairable issue a full blown tear down / rebuild. Wouldn’t there, couldn’t there, be some shared responsibility in cases like that? I’ve always subscribed to “The customer isn’t always right, but we will always treat the customer right”. That doesn’t mean the customer always gets their way.
I can't help noticing just how often you tell us how "obviously" many things are. "obviously they are available", "obviously the rocker is just lying on", 'obviously the old block is underneath the bench". It feels a bit patronising because these things are not obvious to us, until you tell us!
Best option is to not waste any more time with the engine in the Volvo. There is obviously something wrong with and at some point it going to come out. Save time and get the full engine out, sent over to you for stripping and investigating. Red Top - Looks really good but I'd be well miffed with the fact that you've stuck your business sticker right in the middle. I'd have no problem with stickers saying who built my engine but right on top of the rocker cover.....ummmm, not so good. (just my 2cents)
Why is it all these warranty claims they all say it's only done 400 miles in a year . Then they start stripping the thing apart. The warranty is null and void if you disassemble any part of it . Simple
Sounds like a head fracture. I've seen many seem fine, but do pass minorly when cold, then gush when hot and pressurized. Unfortunate the customer has torn into it, otherwise I'd suggest a cold/ hot bypass pressure test.
I like how you don't presume to know everything and will ask for advice.... keep up the good work. Looks like you also have a great team behind you.
I had a 3.1 Isuzu bighorn that ran fine cold. After maybe 30 miles it would overheat and dump coolant into the sump. It was a hairline crack in the head. You couldn't see it, the gasket was fine and ran top notch when cold. Probably nothing like this issue but it's my tuppenceworth.
A fun game for the home viewers, have a large sip of your beverage every time you hear “as you can see” 😜
Loving your channel and content guys 😎
When we were doing F Ford engines, we not only used a torque plate, but we hot honed the blocks. We set up a water heater with the temperature at 230 degrees and made up fittings to circulate the water through the block, so it was up to operating temperature when we honed it- was worth a couple HP. Would be a good idea for your shop, and it could test for a crack opening up at temperature.
One of the Supra engine builder in Vegas heats the block and puts a head plate on and torque it down then hone/bores block.
Water at 230 deg??? Don't think so.
@@1magnit 230F is 110C
@@1magnit I'm picking that's 230° fahrenheit, not celsius - which would be 110°C, right about where most cars run their temperature.
@@thomp449 Water doesn't exist at 110c unless under pressure.
Water in the sump? Maybe a crack in the block, behind the sleeve. Pinhole in the bore.
Pressure test with hot water - have had to do that before.
Your a very kind Gent Mr. Lee...and you advertise it!...Hmmm...?
I am sure you will help him out! Been watching your channel for many, many months from the shadows. Great show!!
Can you use an electric pump to run hot water through it? Obviously going to be lower temperature than normal operating temp., but might help find the issue.
Maybe run some dye in the coolant before you pull it apart and run it until it starts using water, then look through the water and oil passages for dye in a crack?
I found the perfect rattle can red for cossie cam cover years ago, bought it from a well known shop, sprayed my cover and 10yrs later it hasnt blistered, peeled, chipped or discoloured and at shows people ask where I had it done, I'd love to start a recon service now I know it lasts
Get a dye penetrant kit to spray all over the heads and blocks, it should show up any hairline cracks that aren't visible when everything is cold. Far more reliable and accurate than trying to spot a crack by eye. It's something you should have in the shop anyway for crack testing things before machining.
My 2.4L Toyota motor did this, it was a pain in my back pockets figuring it out. I did find out what it was after several hundred dollars it was a .39cent part. In the head ( Alum ) was a steel plug as the casting sand dump out port that housed the .39cent gasket. Cold fine hot different story. Alum and steel expand and contract differently causing the problem. Good luck.
If he's running high boost it sounds like it could be lifting the head and that then obviously means it dumps coolant into the block..
It's quite common for that to happen if head bolts stretch out etc.
Is he running fire rings etc?
Obviously when it's not on boost and it's cold the head will be tight, but as things heat up and you get on boost it just pushes it out.
Might be worth looking into and possibly going down the fire ring route if he's been using it for "motor sports" 👍
Coolant would be in the cylinders if that was the case.
@@ChrisJones555. doesn't have to be gallons to turn the oil creamy.
And it wouldn't necessarily leave any water in the cylinder if its hot.
You would notice super clean pistons and a tonne of smoke coming out from the exhaust.
That other breather pipe theory is probably the cause though 😅
@@m4d_mark_xtr3me79 LOL! Good answer 👍
What normally tends to happen is when the block warms up any hairline cracks open up under heat but amazingly stays watertight when cold.
We've had a volvo in this week with a crank breather pipe split
Not sure if yours is the same but the breather pipe has a coolant pipe running inside it
It comes off the oil cooler
Ahh that's a good point 👉
Suppose it's like those ford v8s that cross coolant near the intake runners 🤔
That's actually a good shout 👍
Yep, saabs are the same, a coolant (warming) pipe inside the breather system.
Volvo V70 - oil cooler, iirc it’s thermostatically controlled hence why it does it when hot, bypass it, water side with a bit of pipe
That certainly looks good,let’s hope it performs as good as it it looks.
I would also like to add, that i really enjoy the contents of your vids, your a good lad behind the camera, and if you were closer, i would love to work with you, although mainly on crossflows/Lotus variants :)
Past experience with mystery water leaks into oil has led to heating water too 100c and block to surface to 60 to 70c by soaking the heat from the coolant gallery into the block. Pressure the block to just below cap blow off and inspect all oil galleries, passages and coolant areas.
Do the same to oil cooler and ancillaries that might contribute, check to see if the turbo bearing block is cooled by water or the water pump seal is back blowing if gear driven.
I have seen heater/water bypass or radiator blow off pipes carefully plumbed into crankcase breathers.
Mystery leaks are annoying as hell.
Figure out which is cheaper, him paying for the diagnostic time or the repair time and offer a discount, not the full cost on one.
Any discount is good will that 99% of customers will appreciate and pass around that you were a good guy and worth the effort.
Just my 2 bob’s worth.
Take care and play safe.
Should read audio TT
V70R ... X-ray the block? It could be corrosion around the very edge of a water channel at the top of the block, where the head sits.
Hi check for a pin hole in the timing cover behind the water pump. ; I had a similar problem with a Datsun L20 motor. Cheers Dave
we have had a great weekend going around a big antiques fair on Saturday as Antiques are our first passion then Sunday a ham radio fair which is my passion then watching this on Monday which is another passion at one time everything would come with all the clips and everything else but today they all watch the pennies so you have to pay for everything else .so sorry not familiar with that engine but some engines have a gasket on the exhaust that can leek water into the exhaust ports whether it is one of those engine I do not know but have a look and thanks for the video
Have you sleeved the oil gallery on the c20xe head to avoid the “porosity” issue the KS castings suffered with?
I would swap out the oil cooler first..if the engine lays around for extended periods it’s quite possible that corrosion set in the water jackets inside the cooler and when he finally came around to running the engine the cooler is giving up the ghost when hot
Yep same problem on old Audi, oil cooler
Instead of throwing money at the problem in the way of new parts start off by doing a close inspect and pressure tests.
No shit Captain obvious thank you for bestowing such great knowledge and insight.
I had a situation where a vehicle was mixing coolant into the oil, and when the turbo came in for me to go over, the person had used too long bolts in the oil return flange and pierced the galleries between the oil and water and coolant was ending up in the oil when the engine got hot and pressurised
For the volvo hot pressure washer watch the engine temp and use a borro scope into the cylinders and with the sump off, hot washer into cooling system, if oil n water only meet at the oil cooler and in the engine.
Heat the head up to working temp, and pressure test it.
mate of mine had same sort of issues same enigne
he noticed coolant on the drive way one day , he investigated himself nothing too visable apart from coolant running down from above the lower arms he got a mechanic to pressure test the cooling system the head gasket was ok, a leak was confirmed on pressure test and a suspected crack in the block it was loosing water / coolant more over time
he got the car dealer involved under waranty (they only had the car 2 months if that)
the car spent a week in the work shop at volvo main dealer they replaced the cylinder head and rebuilt the engine it was costly if im correct £4k plus from memory however the insurance or something covered the bulk of the cost he had to pay the rest. Volvo guys said its quite common
the cars fine to this day
This volvo is a bit of a odd one is there oil in the radiator, as oil pressure is greater than water pressure. Fantastic chanel great to see someone who cares about there work.all the best mate 👍
The V70R has a coolant pipe inside the crankcase breather ... if it splits or leaks, it will dump into the sump.
Oil cooler in the radiator , happened on my 850R.
the 2.5 is it the ford ST ENGINE transverse 5👍🏻
Has anyone complained about the wrong shade of paint thinking they were getting a professional Paint job 😂😂😂
Best engine about these redtop
Making crazy dosh as well
Alloy block millingtons just been on the phone and says no
On that Volvo - do the head bolt threads go into the water jacket or are they blind threaded holes? If the head bolts go in to the water jacket and there was no thread sealant that could be a source of the coolant in the oil. But if his water is literally dumping into the sump gotta closely inspect the block & heads, and oil cooler.
The Volvo has a oil filter housing cooler with a water jacket but I’m not sure if that’s the older engines cheers
Has the Volvo got a water cooled oil filter housing,they can fail & water ingresses into the oil..
Hi I had a paccar 4banger in shop years ago same issue days in to it then trip over a hidden/not easy to see core plug behind timing chest which had rusted then leaked water into oil return to sump then mixed I only found it when I took sump when the engine was still hot . May be of no help but my make you think have a great day
On the Volvo does that one have a through passage on the timing cover . It's been a while but I'm thinking I had one leak between the oil feed for the tensioner and the passageway for the water pump.. as far as the oil cooler I would try and bypass it as a test, I have had some in the past show good but as soon as it would change temperature it would leak like crazy..good luck
why this engine so good?
Don't waste time and money with the oil cooler, when oil coolers go bad oil ends up in the cooling system because oil pressure is greater than the cooling system pressure. I'll usually drop the pan and look up into the crankcase to see if there are any antifreeze droplets hanging from a liner or something.
Porous has allowing water jacket to seek into oil return passages in head, hence to sump? No experience with the 5 cylinder engines, but had the same issue with a high millage B21years ago, as well as allowing high pressure combustion gases into the water jacket of head and through the cooling system.
i think the 5 cylinder volvo engines are common to crack the liners.
If the coolant runs to the throttle body. I have seen them crack and leak coolant into the engine that way
Charge the v70r guy by the hour
My C20xe is doing a similar thing I think if u upgrade the pistons and change the compression it plays silly buggers with not getting rid of the oil
Re the Volvo; excepting the head, the only things I can think it might be is either the water pump or some sort of failure in the oil/water galleries.
You rebuilt my transit engine 2 yrs ago, I havent done 100,00 miles a year with it honest so can you rebuild it for me for free, I get its nice to be nice and look after customers but if they dont get it back to you within warranty it billed all the way or youre losing money, on your balance sheet it would be nice to have a collum of possible warranty claims thats cut off at the warranty date to show possible liability.
Redtop looks really smart until you offered up the red (different red) pulleys. Can he get chrome plated or ?
Do cosworth valves still have to be sodium filled?
Cheers Lee. Keep ‘em coming.
Hey Lee, why don't you get your cams from Kent's, loads better quality than Newman or Piper
Do not give in to him, the flood gates will open. Shut happens, could have a pours head or internal crack the opens when hot. I've been here, your customer wants a replacement engine at your cost. It's out of warranty and he dismantled it, not your problem. This is the harsh side of motor vehicles, they go wrong and its no one's fault, it happens. If he cannot afford to run it buy a bicycle, your get walked on if your not careful.
Hi lee I am getting suspected spam messages from a company using your logo and saying they have a competition! Just to put you on alert about it mate ok thanks
Sorry to hear that mate. I've just reported a dodgy comment and link in the reply's .
Lee if you read this I think this sort of stuff is yet another headache for you. Sorry to say.
Yip I've just reported about 10 such messages in a row to!!!! 😏
It sounds like something hasn’t been connected/installed right on the Volvo. Or a bolt that protrudes into the water jacket hasn’t been sealed. In other words, something silly.
Well if it happens when hot, does sound like a crack expanding wide somewhere. Do you uses crack detecting blue? I think that what it's called, can't remember how it's done, a special light? Shows up the thinnest of thin cracks.
Volvo v70 it could be the the transmission oil cooler leaking in the radiator getting into cooling system 👍
That doesn’t explain the complaint - milky engine oil.
Put an xu9j4 head on it
I'm always cautious when amateurs install there own engine etc. alot of companies now days void warranty if professional mechanic hasn't installed/removed, for good reason.
Could just be moisture in the crankcase, especially if it's only been used for short runs and stored in a cold place, my old Volvo used to have a bit of cream on the cap but cleared up after a good run.
Did water come out before the oil when he dropped the oil?
Dave willet of Dave willet engineering does bda rockers for a xe
I’m sure the same person who does Millingtons does them to a spec DW designed and developed
Mine cost 560 notes 🤣
I think your next job will be ladies hair dresser.then buy a auditor's.lol.kevin.
One of my favourite engines.
What oil pump you guys run on them?
Do you use a jobsheet for each job with a checklist of progress?
What is the impact on your business with current and predicted electricity price rises ? How much more will you need to charge for your services? Cheers.
Candles and rodent treadmills for the machinery!😂
Mine's gone up a fortune, and more to come as well, just got over covid and now this.
Ultimately you have to charge the customer, which in my job will probably mean people won't bother about a dent or scratch.
It's gonna be a difficult time for everyone in the trade.
Those EU sanctions. Let's support the current thing wile the rest goes down the toilet
Depends
If your business is a bar that supplies kids on a fri sat night they are not affected as live at home with mum and dad
If it’s mk2 rs2000’s then that type of owner can afford a services increase
If it’s a old rover driver they just will wear a jumper
Ez
Hi Lee. A bit of random question but what soda do you use for your soda blaster and where’s the best place to get it. Looks like it works really well.
Hi Lee, do you guys do spray welding by any chance? Cheers
I amTim iamlookingfor acylinderhead C20xe
If he took the head off that voided your warranty if you assembled it. Oil cooler is in the radiator. Common problem with that car/ motor. Try bypassing oiler cooler flush it out fill water and see if that water turns green after it’s at temp for a while. Might need to run a external oil cooler and just plug up the stock one.
Do you want to rebuild my Saab b204 😁
For free
What make are those red pistons
If it ran for 400 miles. How where those mile driven like
In a short circle track
Where`s the Vauxhall ???
Get a mask on when spraying please isocynates and all that.
does the Volvo have a cylinder head oil return through an external coolant to oil heat exchange plate on the end of the head like on a Renault clio RS 197 etc? Seen coolant enter the sump past the gasket into oil return when system pressurised. Also recently seen a core plug leaking under the cams inside the rocker box on a Peugeot 1.6
Magnaflux the Head then Block...
Where is "the best handling n/a rwd car" ?
Don't trust him. He's had the engine apart, he's been fiddle farting about with it, he's put it back together with incorrect timing, he could have done anything. He could have gone to top the coolant up and put water in the rocker cover instead.
If you do any work charge for it.
Is the Volvo an auto? if so suspect the oil cooler, it’s in the rad . Failure could mean water and oil mixing! Only a possible..
Not in the engine! It has milky engine oil.
@@ralfie8801 what’s the difference
@@julianpritchard2558
The two systems don’t mix, cooling or oil types. Transmission fluid is one type of oil cooled with one cooler, usually in the radiator, using its own cooling tubes. If that cooler leaked, the transmission and/or radiator would have milky oil in it, not the engine crankcase, as Is the complaint in this video. Engine oil is another type of oil that is sometimes cooled with a second cooler in the radiator depending on the vehicle type, if it leaks, the engine crankcase and/or radiator would have milky oil in it. Some engines have the oil cooler on the side of the engine block near the oil filter housing, or even use an adapter on the oil filter housing to route engine oil to and through a cooler resembling a small radiator or heater core that uses air instead of water to cool the oil. Being that the two cooling circuits are completely separate from each other, you would never in a million years get milky engine oil from a leaking automatic transmission cooler, it just can’t happen.
@@ralfie8801 Volvo engines of the 5 cylinder variety have an engine oil cooler built into the radiator. I got 3 of them, petrol and diesel, one petrol being a T5R .
@@julianpritchard2558
Well the engine oil cooler isn’t or shouldn’t be part of the transmission cooler, they should be separate to prevent cross contamination of the two different fluids. There is the risk of one or both oils getting in the water if both coolers leak, but the transmission cooler should never put water in the engine oil.
I once had a 1981 Datsun 720 King Cab Pickup with an SD 22 Diesel in it. The engine oil cooler in that one is bolted to the side of the engine block and uses the engine’s water jacket for its coolant supply.
My 2007 Chevy Duramax Diesel has a similar cooler with water being fed directly to it through a pipe from the water pump. The automatic transmission has a cooler in the radiator plus an air cooled one in front of the radiator.
My wife has a 2016 Chevy SS Sedan, more commonly known as a Holden Commodore with the 6.2L GM V-8. The oil cooler on that one comes out of the engine block near the oil filter and just goes through some tubing and a small finned cooling block bolted to the side of the engine under the left exhaust manifold.
I also have an old GM truck with the optional oil cooler that took oil from the filter using an adapter and sent it to a heater core sized cooler behind the grille and then back to the filter adapter. There are also versions that use a cooler like the transmission cooler in the radiator, but I don’t personally own any of those.
There are a lot of different ways to cool oil and transmission fluid, then there’s the power steering fluid cooler some vehicles have, also behind the grille.
Have a nice rest of your evening, assuming you’re in the UK, it’s gotta be getting on to 10 ish PM? It’s 5 PM USA Central time here.
Xe* ain’t a bottle of milk
There has to be a time limit on a warranty job, no matter, I would say 12 months warranty, but if the owner doesnt fit the engine for 15 months or more, thats not your problem, its there's. your running a business, not a state welfare bottomless pit
The only caveat to this, is if the customers car is not ready for the engine, perhaps you could still get paid in full, and store the engine at £5 a week ? until customer is ready, and takes said engine, and then the warranty starts at that point, so back to a proper 12 month guarantee
My old boss did something very similar. He quickly found out that customers would lapse for months on storage payment. We had a chap come in wanting his motor yet hadn't paid for 17 months! Boss finally drafted up a contract what clearly stated if no payment for six months he had right to sell or dispose (law was three months).
Sounds cutthroat, but if it weren't for the chancers and villains, we wouldn't need laws so much.
I don’t disagree. But apparently this guy hasn’t put many miles on it. No good shop wants to put out bad work and then say, “sorry mate, warranty is expired”. That doesn’t create a good reputation. At least look it over and try to determine if the problem was workmanship or owner induced.
@@jeffheld3971 If i buy a TV or washing machine in Currys, today, what is the warranty ? its 12 months, so it doesnt matter wether i plug the Tv or Washing machine in today, or in 366 days time, the warranty started on the day of pick up. collection, why is an engine or gearbox, or ... any different???
I would put my house on the fact, if you tried to take something back to Currys (or any where else) after the 12 months, they will tell you to go and F off, perhaps a bit more politely !
@@stevem7868-y4l I won’t disagree with that. However, the rules of merchantability (depending on Country) has nothing to do with a warranty when the part, component, or assembly was improperly manufactured, or repaired.
Example, your car warranty may be 60,000 miles or 3 years. If there was an issue with the material, process, or components, the auto manufacturer will issue a recall (they may be forced to repair those issues via threat of lawsuit or they may simply do the right thing).
I’m not advocating that any business automatically bend over and take it in the shorts any time a customer sneezes. But I strongly suggest checking out their complaint in an earnest and honest manner.
Let’s also be honest here; it isn’t always possible to pinpoint what went wrong or why. And only God knows all too well what some knucklehead owner does to a car or engine and then tries to pass off as poor workmanship.
Furthermore, even if workmanship was the prevailing reason for a failure, there are mitigating circumstances where the customer may not have stopped operating the vehicle or did something that made an easily repairable issue a full blown tear down / rebuild. Wouldn’t there, couldn’t there, be some shared responsibility in cases like that?
I’ve always subscribed to “The customer isn’t always right, but we will always treat the customer right”. That doesn’t mean the customer always gets their way.
That’s a fiat /Peugeot engine
I can't help noticing just how often you tell us how "obviously" many things are. "obviously they are available", "obviously the rocker is just lying on", 'obviously the old block is underneath the bench". It feels a bit patronising because these things are not obvious to us, until you tell us!
Please check your comments looks like you have a scammer offering prizes to people in the comments
Did you get my email ?
Best option is to not waste any more time with the engine in the Volvo. There is obviously something wrong with and at some point it going to come out. Save time and get the full engine out, sent over to you for stripping and investigating.
Red Top - Looks really good but I'd be well miffed with the fact that you've stuck your business sticker right in the middle. I'd have no problem with stickers saying who built my engine but right on top of the rocker cover.....ummmm, not so good. (just my 2cents)
Why is it all these warranty claims they all say it's only done 400 miles in a year . Then they start stripping the thing apart. The warranty is null and void if you disassemble any part of it . Simple
Sounds like a head fracture. I've seen many seem fine, but do pass minorly when cold, then gush when hot and pressurized.
Unfortunate the customer has torn into it, otherwise I'd suggest a cold/ hot bypass pressure test.
Just wanted to make clear not this specific engine, bet countless others, especially in a cold climate via freeze.