Another excellent video Mike. The accidental screwups are good to see so others will know what to look for and what damage may or may not happen. I did my first swap by guessing and hoping but videos like this will help others to avoid mistakes with a good example of what can go right and wrong.
I actually grabbed this exact same tv and tube less than a week ago and was working on doing the exact same thing. I wasn't sure once I saw the yolk that I could use it, but now I know I can. Perfect timing with your video it helped alot!
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair so I hooked it up to my k7000 and my vertical size is too small any suggestions? I measured the yolk and vertical measured 3.2
Assuming you’re using a 25” K7000 and not a 19” by mistake, there’s not much you’ll be able to do unfortunately without swapping the yoke for one closer to 8-10 ohms.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Yes I have a few other 25" k7000 chassis and yolks, I might swap it out or try another remote board. I was just hoping to not have to swap the yolk and mess with the convergance. Thanks for the help tho it's appreciated 🙏
A great instruction video of video game ready chassis to connect to a CRT from a working TV. Lucky it didn't have your slight burnout potential worry. I have two CRT tubes from a 25 inch Sanyo and 32 inch RCA and their components (deflection yoke and gaussing cable disconnected but around in case of recycling the copper for metal and the Cathode Ray tubes to be scrapped because of the weight to carry tube around issues). I had to retire the 32 inch RCA due to a vertical deflection component failure of the chassis but the tube still looking bright and no burnout looks after 18 years of warching analog TV DVD movies to converter box digital free TV programs.
This is so amusing and educational on how to proceed when dealing with CRT Tubes and chassis. Yo taught me a lot on the workarounds when fixing those. Susbscribed immediately after seeing almost the whole video and gave a like. Like you said, we are humans so we make mistakes (the part when the degaussing and ground were swapped). Greets and Hugs from Chile 🇨🇱, South America (Late Winter here on August 26th 2023 🥶)
Awesome and informative work as usual. Had this on in the background as I work on my friends WG V2000 vector. Everything I know I learned from watching your videos.
Lot's of hidden gems to be found in consumer grade CRT TV's that won't break the bank on your project. I've been lucky enough to snag a few 27" working units for cheap :)
You have any idea what's a good replacement for a 25" K7400? My K7400 tube broke the tab of the convergence rings which are... plastic! I think it's stupid in my opinion that plastic was used for the convergence rings but it was what it was...
It looked like there might have been a slight squish on the sides, I would have loved to see the crosshatch pattern to see for sure, also to see what the convergence looked like, particularly in the corners.
@Mike's Amateur Arcade Monitor Repair it could be my eyes playing tricks on me but it looks like the "wwf" on the right side seems a little more narrow than in the middle. Overall, it looks great!
Mike, why didn't you just use the yoke connectors from the TV chassis and wire them into the k7000 connectors for the chassis instead of robbing some from the Polo chassis?
Amazing job! Did you just take the chance when buying that TV set? How did you know it would be compatible with the K7000 beforehand? I also notice a vertical linearity issue. You can see it at 45:57 by comparing the letter "n" on "Jason" in the middle of the screen and the "n" on "Boon" at the top. The "Boon" one is much taller. Can that be adjusted and fixed? Thanks for sharing all this info, it's really useful!
Hey Mike, great video as always, how would doing something like this work out if you wanted medium res? I have a dead 25" medium res tube to replace at some point. Thanks!
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Ok i found the controls but my sizes dont match black bars on each left and right side ? Wont full screen when i adjust the left and right to make it full to cover the pic for the game like black boarders
You couldn’t give these old crt tvs away a year or 2 ago!! Now idiots see how they are cool and retro and ask crazy money .. Sorry I’m just disappointed with the human race
It’s crazy they were still making RF-only sets in 2002.
I have always wondered how a consumer CRT could be swapped into an arcade chassis. Now I know! Thanks for sharing!
Amazing work! Now I want to go TV shopping!!!
Happy hunting!
Great result! Obviously no burn-in as it's been used to display TV pictures instead of a static arcade display. Amazing outcome 👍😁
"Don't get upset girl that's just how it goes,,,I don't lovem though I'm out the doe "
"Fire in the sky"
Thanks for sharing!
Another excellent video Mike. The accidental screwups are good to see so others will know what to look for and what damage may or may not happen. I did my first swap by guessing and hoping but videos like this will help others to avoid mistakes with a good example of what can go right and wrong.
Much agreed I appreciate the mistakes as well!
I actually grabbed this exact same tv and tube less than a week ago and was working on doing the exact same thing. I wasn't sure once I saw the yolk that I could use it, but now I know I can. Perfect timing with your video it helped alot!
Sweet!
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair so I hooked it up to my k7000 and my vertical size is too small any suggestions? I measured the yolk and vertical measured 3.2
Assuming you’re using a 25” K7000 and not a 19” by mistake, there’s not much you’ll be able to do unfortunately without swapping the yoke for one closer to 8-10 ohms.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Yes I have a few other 25" k7000 chassis and yolks, I might swap it out or try another remote board. I was just hoping to not have to swap the yolk and mess with the convergance. Thanks for the help tho it's appreciated 🙏
Glad it worked out for you, I’ve always admired your work
A great instruction video of video game ready chassis to connect to a CRT from a working TV. Lucky it didn't have your slight burnout potential worry. I have two CRT tubes from a 25 inch Sanyo and 32 inch RCA and their components (deflection yoke and gaussing cable disconnected but around in case of recycling the copper for metal and the Cathode Ray tubes to be scrapped because of the weight to carry tube around issues). I had to retire the 32 inch RCA due to a vertical deflection component failure of the chassis but the tube still looking bright and no burnout looks after 18 years of warching analog TV DVD movies to converter box digital free TV programs.
A lot of whether a certain tube will work on am a monitor depends on what voltage it uses for Anode, G1, G2, Cut-Off, etc and other factors.
This is so amusing and educational on how to proceed when dealing with CRT Tubes and chassis. Yo taught me a lot on the workarounds when fixing those. Susbscribed immediately after seeing almost the whole video and gave a like.
Like you said, we are humans so we make mistakes (the part when the degaussing and ground were swapped).
Greets and Hugs from Chile 🇨🇱, South America (Late Winter here on August 26th 2023 🥶)
Thank you!
Wow, this is amazing. I would totally have this done in my Mortal Kombat 3 machine if anyone near me did this kind of work.
Awesome. I got a 25” Sanyo wood paneled tv for nothing and used with a K7000 chassis and spare frame. Picture looks great in my Neogeo cabinet
I just did this project myself. Thanks for helping!
Awesome and informative work as usual. Had this on in the background as I work on my friends WG V2000 vector. Everything I know I learned from watching your videos.
Love how you just causally shrug off the bolt of electric death. Very informative video, probably wouldn’t try this if I built a home arcade though.
That's the EXACT SAME tube i was asking about!
Lol I'm going to get a lot of value out of this video~
I own a 36" Magnavox Smart Series CRT
Lot's of hidden gems to be found in consumer grade CRT TV's that won't break the bank on your project. I've been lucky enough to snag a few 27" working units for cheap :)
Great and informative video! Could I ask what is the yellow device (with black pipe) on the table?
it looks identical to the GE commercial skip branded tv i have from 1999 also a 25 inch lol
You have any idea what's a good replacement for a 25" K7400? My K7400 tube broke the tab of the convergence rings which are... plastic! I think it's stupid in my opinion that plastic was used for the convergence rings but it was what it was...
Great job Mike!
I'm surprised that worked with the vertical being 3.3 ohms
Great job!
It looked like there might have been a slight squish on the sides, I would have loved to see the crosshatch pattern to see for sure, also to see what the convergence looked like, particularly in the corners.
I’ll see if I can post an update. Nothing noticeable regarding linearity as far as I could tell based on using the WWF PCB.
@Mike's Amateur Arcade Monitor Repair it could be my eyes playing tricks on me but it looks like the "wwf" on the right side seems a little more narrow than in the middle. Overall, it looks great!
Smeggin awesome score sir ! Dammmnnnn
Could I use that same frame to mount it vertically in a cab or would I need a special frame intended for vertical mounting?
Yup. Just take the monitor, turn it sideways, and install it.
I’ve got zapped by this back in the day but now I’m more safe it hurts when you get zapped
Mike, why didn't you just use the yoke connectors from the TV chassis and wire them into the k7000 connectors for the chassis instead of robbing some from the Polo chassis?
Because the connections were not compatible directly. Was cleaner to do it the way I did it, it my opinion.
Mike i got a problem with my chassis, can i email you for hints how to fix it???…
Amazing job!
Did you just take the chance when buying that TV set? How did you know it would be compatible with the K7000 beforehand?
I also notice a vertical linearity issue. You can see it at 45:57 by comparing the letter "n" on "Jason" in the middle of the screen and the "n" on "Boon" at the top. The "Boon" one is much taller. Can that be adjusted and fixed?
Thanks for sharing all this info, it's really useful!
Thanks! Not sure I’m seeing the same thing that you are. I’ll look closer. I just took the chance!
Awesome!
Great video as always!
On the yoke connector, on mine, i cut the connector off of the tv, and spliced it to the connector for the chassis... Would that not work?
Sure. Should be fine.
Hey Mike, great video as always, how would doing something like this work out if you wanted medium res? I have a dead 25" medium res tube to replace at some point. Thanks!
You’d need the original medium res yoke and you’d have to remove the donor tube’s yoke and swap your original medium res tube onto the donor tube.
thank you for your videos.
Wait how do i mess with the size and such in my arcade monitor i dont see a control like that ? Or is located in the back in the tube?
What chassis do you have? It’s either an adjustment pot or a width coil.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair im not sure its a midway mortal Kombat 4 cab 25 inch crt
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair
Ok i found the controls but my sizes dont match black bars on each left and right side ? Wont full screen when i adjust the left and right to make it full to cover the pic for the game like black boarders
1M thumbs up
Sometimes these have the hots of a 7000!!!!
I just got another one free!!!!
Shhhh 🤫 you’re giving away too many secret’s.
You couldn’t give these old crt tvs away a year or 2 ago!! Now idiots see how they are cool and retro and ask crazy money .. Sorry I’m just disappointed with the human race
To ignorant to do this job
Very Good