I love Tico's design and you have done a fantastic job showing us the great features. The locating pins and liners on McMaster-Carr are expensive (about $20 per set) but they ensure everything remains aligned for the life of the shooting board. I had not thought of moving my hand forward on the shooting plane - I'll give that a try. Thanks for taking the time to show us this, Ramon.
I certainly appreciate your feedback David! And thanks for the info. If I have a lot to shoot, like I did recently, I wear a glove. 😆 Otherwise, that knurled knob starts to wear my palm raw. But that position just feels right!
Right!? I was reluctant to share such an awesome tool that is no longer available. But after a quick text with Tico, and the people that had been requesting more info, I decided it would be worth it. I love that thing
That is a wonderful shooting board! Veritas make a nice plane. They also make a interesting adjustable fence for shooting boards I say this in very good humour - your continual use of the top coat reminds me of the Bride’s Father in “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” and his love of spraying Windex on everything.😊
I met Tico at a woodworking show and he demonstrated the features of his board. I was ready to hand my wallet over until I heard the price. I’ve been drooling over one of these ever since. At the time, he wasn’t willing to sell plans. But now that he is no longer making them, I’m wondering if he open to the idea. It would be a shame to have all of his brilliant ideas just disappear from the market. Generations of woodworkers across the globe could benefit from his extraordinary design.
Man…that is well said! I too, pondered about the price for about a year! 😆 After getting it and using it…I’ve never thought about the price any longer! As a matter of fact, knowing how awesome it is, I’d pay more. I love working with that kind of accuracy when it’s needed. Anyway…thanks
The thing about plans is that CNC is an essential aspect of fabrication of the system. Also, there are so many small but essential steps to take along the way to end up with the fine tolerances that it is prohibitive unless you're wanting to invest a ton of resources.
Thanks Tico for adding to the discussion. I remember you making similar points (about CNC, etc) when we spoke in person. While I don’t have a CNC (yet), I do have an extremely high end shop and a fairly good head on my shoulders. Maybe I could fabricate it, or maybe not, but it sure would be fun to try!
Looks like a great design, you can tell he has put a lot of thought into this product. Its a shame that its no longer for sale. Oh I don't think the smaller version would be upto much at a length of 48mm just under 2" lol
After all this time I wouldn’t have guessed a new and better design for shooting boards would show up but here one is! Between the Shaper Origin for building and McMaster-Carr for hardware (except the Magswitch) maybe a guy like me could actually pull it off. Good video.
Wow. Fantastic Ramon. My Veritas shooting plane has been sitting in a box and I have yet to use it because I keep looking at different shooting board designs and have yet to find one I was really happy with.....until now. Tico's seems absolutely perfect. I will definitely be building one based on his design. Out of curiosity what is the angle of the ramp? Did Tico just match it so that the top of the blade is near the top of the ramp? But I could see the rationale for making so the top of the blade is part way down the ramp so utilize more of the blade for smaller width pieces that would probably be 99% of what one would use it for. And please do show more of that table. It looks incredible.
I’m assuming that the angle is not too critical. With my plane all the way back (towards me) there is a bit of the blade still showing. The angle is so slight that in reality, with boards up against the fence, the blade gets used in one general area. I should have mentioned in the video, that I’ll sometimes take another wider board (that has parallel edges) and push it against the fence. That brings my workpiece towards me and gives me a fresh, sharp area of the blade. Now that I think about it, where is that board!? It use to be in the same drawer. 😆 I bet it got used for something else! 🤪 Anyway, the table build and finished photos coming soon! Much thanks.
I long dreamt about buying one of his shooting boards, then pondered making my own. I always wondered what angle he chose for that ramp--any insight you'd be willing to share? Also, what's embedded in the table to allow the MagSwitch to work? How deep under the surface is that--and it it another magnet or a sheet of steel? Thanks for putting this out!
I had a simple shooting board that worked well for years but needed adjustability and didn’t have a good way to add/change the angle or direction of miter. After contemplating myself (I thought it was pricey) I finally ordered one. Now, without a doubt…this is the best shooting board I’ve ever seen. Worth every cent! The angle isn’t critical…I believe I mentioned measurements in the video. That downward angle helps tremendously as you lean into the workpiece to hold it securely. Yeah, I should have shown more about the magnet parts. The MagSwitch is attracted to an embedded metal plate…looks to be about 2” (51mm) or so. But a rare earth magnet could also work underneath (and embedded). Thanks a ton!
Fantastic video Ramon, much appreciated. I'm planning on making one using my SO and have 90% designed in Fusion 360. However, having read the attached comments and having thought about it a bit more I'm not convinced the angled base is really worth the trip? The rationale is that it helps to hold the workpiece tightly down to the base. However, if you're using a shooting plan with a skewed blade (I use the Lie Neilson shooter which does) then the skew angle is effectively offset (as one or more posts have noted). The skew not only helps reduce cutting load (an easier cut) but is also introduced a down force component that helps keep the workpiece in place. Maybe the original design from Tico was developed to work with a standard bench plane where the angled base introduces a skew component rather than eliminates it?
Yes…valid points. I’ve been looking at mine regarding this topic and the angle of the base is negligible compared to the skew of the blade. You’re still absolutely getting a sheering cut. Not sure how much the angled base helps, but it feels right. And I like the fact that the angle helps use more of the width of the blade. Occasionally, I’ll add a board against the fence to bring the workpiece towards me and further use more width of the blade. Thanks a ton!
Nice! I have the Lie-Nielsen version of the shooting plane and it’s a beast. I have a couple of different shooting boards including a ramped on but the are definitely not as nice as that one. I’ve heard about his shooting boards before but this is the first one I’ve seen. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for teaching. I always walk away with information "gems" from your videos, so don't second-guess yourself on that point. I've been on the fence about that exact plane. My current set-up is my heaviest, squarest plane on its side and I can get results (with effort.) Seeing that guide rail on the right of the board makes so much sense and the shape of a dedicated shooting plane allows that to exist. Unrelated to shooting, you mentioned not using a plane on ply and I'm curious about your reason. I do it often with my block plane and I'd hate to damage it. I don't mind if it's just excessive dulling (I've got a fairly good sharpening routine before projects.) Thanks for any advice!
Thank you so much for watching! Yes, I love the idea of a dedicated plane designed for a shooting board and the fence to guide it is superb! I use my planes on plywood even though I don’t like it! 😆 It’s really, as you mentioned, a quickly dulling issue. Especially with the fence being an upright section of plywood. I may change it to solid wood. I feel like most plywoods’, with their multi layers of cross grain and rigid glue are hard on a sharp blade…but then again, it’s just a tool right? Sharpening is easy. Thanks a ton
Yeah, I know. I was hesitant to ask too much about stuff like that. Tico put a ton of time and effort when he manufactured these. But I do think with the few measurements I shared, one could get super close. Hardware could probably be found from McMaster Carr…
I have to agree, the handle should be moved forward to allow more direct control/pressure over the blade area. Otherwise, the plane is fine especially with the blade (iron) skewed 20° to reduce resistance and make a shearing cut that leaves a clean finish on end grain. However, building a board with a table DOWN, you’ve now reduced the angle of attack (approaching 90°) thereby minimizing the function of the skewed blade feature. Yes, in order to make full use of the blade width, we’ve sacrificed the skewed function of the plane. So, here’s what I propose: 1. Level table BUT raised 2. Shooting board track fillers (3/4”?) to raise the plane incrementally as the blade gets dull. 3. Delete plywood stop, Add hardwood-easier on the blade 4. Optional: Use Low-friction UHMW tape on track Soooo, where do we find all the parts to build one? Cheers, N
Awww, yeah valid points! However, the down hill angle is minimal as related to the angle of attack. I do feel like that slight angle does help with pushing the pieces tight to the fence. And I like the hardwood backer idea. Sometimes I use a scrap board (solid wood with parallel sides) to bring the work away from the fence in order to introduce a new area of the blade. It’s also a backer. I wish I had showed that in the video. Much thanks.
I know, it’s true. But, with these few measurements and a good view of the features, one should be able to make one that is very similar with exact and incredible function! Thanks
That’s a beautiful shooting board. With all due respect if I were to build it, I would reverse the angle. Currently having the workpiece at an angle relative to the plane is navigating the angle of the blade in the plane which helps to slice through the board. Reversing the angle where the plane cuts down into the board would complement the angle of the blade and also force the wood down into the front stop block. Just my two cents. it is a beautiful shooting board and I’m sure it works great as is.
I’m not sure I understand. The downward pressure of the ramp holds the workpiece securely. In addition, the weight of my body pushing downhill makes it easier to hold and push the shooting plane forward. Let me know what I’m missing. Thanks
@@ramonartful Ramon, I wanted to see if it could be made so that the plane was cutting down into the board like a hand saw does. But after looking at a few other videos of boards like this one that showed different views so I could see it a bit better, I've come around to see what you've known. And that is it works great and as you mentioned the isn't enough to cause any problems that I might have been trying to solve. 🫤 I watched and implemented your belt sander/sanding technique on my last two bed builds, I can't thank you enough! I have more sanders than "Carter has pills", but I still find that I'm reaching for my Makita quite often when fast, flat sanding is needed. I just took some time to learn the "Goose-it" technique, and I was off to the races! My mother used the phrase as well. 😉 All the Best, Chuck.
I had the same issue with the handle. So I took it off and choked up on the body, but holding just the body with downward pressure makes it want to tip. The handle keeps the downward pressure to the base of the plane keeping it flat.
Thanks for the great video. One thing that I have always wondered is what happens to your 45 degree cuts when you incline the bed relative to the blade. At 5 degrees, or whatever the angle on this one is, it wont make a significant difference on a single joint, but on all of these things it doubles per joint, so if you are shooting 8 miters on a frame then it's 8 times the error. To make imagining the issue a bit clearer think what would happen to the angle you are cutting on the wood if you inclined the bed to 90 degrees rather than 5 degrees. You are now cutting a square cut. Bring the bed down to 45 degrees and the effect is less, i.e. the angle you are cutting is closer to 45 degrees, and when you come down to 5 degrees it's less still, but still there. Is there something in this geometry that I am missing?
I’m not sure I understand what you’re referring to. The shooting board bed or platform is angled, yes. But, even with the angle of the platform raised…the face of the miter being cut is dead flat against the sole of the plane. Does that make sense or am I missing your point? Thanks
Ramon, You are of course correct. It took me a little while to work through it in my head but I understand it now. Now to see if I can adapt my current shooting board to this concept. Thanks again.
Well…the design could be copied quite easily but the attachments were all created with CNC for extreme accuracy. It too bad Tico doesn’t make them anymore. So, the short answer is not likely. I would love to keep his design going (giving him full credit) but I just don’t have the time. Thanks
Yeah…that is definitely a good idea. I’ll add this to my list but no promises on a time. I’m assuming you have the Shaper Origin? Would you be interested in making digital files? I don’t think copying locations are critical, just as long as things line up for the new design.
Awesome tool, but for the thousands of dollars you will pay for this setup, the end difference will be nil, with a shop made shooting board and Stanley plane.
I don't agree. The precision, repeatability, being able to shoot picture frame and carcase miters and using the Auxiliary Base for custom angles add up to a whole lot more than nil.
@@ticovogt Exactly my point, all of which can be achieved with a shop-built shooting board and basic plane. You don't need a $2000 setup to do the same thing.
To each their own , I suppose. I’m not sure what you mean “thousands of dollars”. I have less than 900 (including the plane) in this setup which is superbly made and extremely accurate. Could I achieve this with my old shooting board and a low angle plane? Yes, kinda. But it didn’t feel nearly the same. Besides the incredible function of the shooting board, a shooting plane is designed to have added mass…which creates nearly effortless action as you shoot that end grain. Such a pleasure to use! I guarantee I would not enjoy the process as I do now…and, the cost of what I have in this set up…I never even think of that!
![일상 속 기분 좋음 [Proto disco meme]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DwmEIaZ7XGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![⭐ฮิตในTikTok!! ( มะมะมะหมูเด้ง MooDeng ) Ver. แดนซ์ ReMix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4noyAoMa7bQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I had met Tico Vogt at a Pop Wood show and he was gracious with his time ,the jig is awesome .
Yeah, Tico is too cool. Very knowledgeable dude
Interesting stuff Ramon, that is a very well thought out piece of kit. Thanks for the mention too!
In the UK locator pins can be found from Boneham.
You’re welcome and thanks! I’m gonna add that to the description.
@@ramonartful
You are very decent kinda guy Ramon.
Great video Ramone! I love my Tico-shooter!
Right!? Love this thing. Had a couple people mention removing the handle @nspctor7729
and @dekim631 so I tried taking mine off. So much better!
I love Tico's design and you have done a fantastic job showing us the great features. The locating pins and liners on McMaster-Carr are expensive (about $20 per set) but they ensure everything remains aligned for the life of the shooting board. I had not thought of moving my hand forward on the shooting plane - I'll give that a try. Thanks for taking the time to show us this, Ramon.
I certainly appreciate your feedback David! And thanks for the info.
If I have a lot to shoot, like I did recently, I wear a glove. 😆 Otherwise, that knurled knob starts to wear my palm raw. But that position just feels right!
That is awesome. Wish they still were available to purchase. Thanks for sharing it Ramon!
Right!? I was reluctant to share such an awesome tool that is no longer available. But after a quick text with Tico, and the people that had been requesting more info, I decided it would be worth it. I love that thing
That is a wonderful shooting board!
Veritas make a nice plane. They also make a interesting adjustable fence for shooting boards
I say this in very good humour - your continual use of the top coat reminds me of the Bride’s Father in “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” and his love of spraying Windex on everything.😊
It really is a fantastic shooting board!
And yeah, I remember the Windex! 😆 Now, If they made a cologne that was Topcoat scented…I’d wear it!
I met Tico at a woodworking show and he demonstrated the features of his board. I was ready to hand my wallet over until I heard the price. I’ve been drooling over one of these ever since. At the time, he wasn’t willing to sell plans. But now that he is no longer making them, I’m wondering if he open to the idea. It would be a shame to have all of his brilliant ideas just disappear from the market. Generations of woodworkers across the globe could benefit from his extraordinary design.
Man…that is well said! I too, pondered about the price for about a year! 😆 After getting it and using it…I’ve never thought about the price any longer! As a matter of fact, knowing how awesome it is, I’d pay more. I love working with that kind of accuracy when it’s needed. Anyway…thanks
The thing about plans is that CNC is an essential aspect of fabrication of the system. Also, there are so many small but essential steps to take along the way to end up with the fine tolerances that it is prohibitive unless you're wanting to invest a ton of resources.
Thanks Tico for adding to the discussion. I remember you making similar points (about CNC, etc) when we spoke in person. While I don’t have a CNC (yet), I do have an extremely high end shop and a fairly good head on my shoulders. Maybe I could fabricate it, or maybe not, but it sure would be fun to try!
Looks like a great design, you can tell he has put a lot of thought into this product. Its a shame that its no longer for sale. Oh I don't think the smaller version would be upto much at a length of 48mm just under 2" lol
Yeah for sure…I’ve seen older vids where he has changed/improved the design over the years. Thank you tons for checking it out
Fantastic, educational material as always. Thanks Ramon!
Great to hear! Thanks Kevin
After all this time I wouldn’t have guessed a new and better design for shooting boards would show up but here one is! Between the Shaper Origin for building and McMaster-Carr for hardware (except the Magswitch) maybe a guy like me could actually pull it off. Good video.
Yes, absolutely! The small adjustability of the fences (perpendicular to the edge) should help insure overall accuracy of the build. Much thanks.
Another great , informative video my friend.
Thank you. Means a lot !
@@ramonartful was chatting with David Bedrosian the other night and you came up mad respect for both of you.
Excellent as usual
Great to hear. Thanks for letting me know
Wow. Fantastic Ramon. My Veritas shooting plane has been sitting in a box and I have yet to use it because I keep looking at different shooting board designs and have yet to find one I was really happy with.....until now. Tico's seems absolutely perfect. I will definitely be building one based on his design. Out of curiosity what is the angle of the ramp? Did Tico just match it so that the top of the blade is near the top of the ramp? But I could see the rationale for making so the top of the blade is part way down the ramp so utilize more of the blade for smaller width pieces that would probably be 99% of what one would use it for. And please do show more of that table. It looks incredible.
I’m assuming that the angle is not too critical. With my plane all the way back (towards me) there is a bit of the blade still showing. The angle is so slight that in reality, with boards up against the fence, the blade gets used in one general area. I should have mentioned in the video, that I’ll sometimes take another wider board (that has parallel edges) and push it against the fence. That brings my workpiece towards me and gives me a fresh, sharp area of the blade. Now that I think about it, where is that board!? It use to be in the same drawer. 😆 I bet it got used for something else! 🤪 Anyway, the table build and finished photos coming soon! Much thanks.
I long dreamt about buying one of his shooting boards, then pondered making my own. I always wondered what angle he chose for that ramp--any insight you'd be willing to share?
Also, what's embedded in the table to allow the MagSwitch to work? How deep under the surface is that--and it it another magnet or a sheet of steel? Thanks for putting this out!
I had a simple shooting board that worked well for years but needed adjustability and didn’t have a good way to add/change the angle or direction of miter. After contemplating myself (I thought it was pricey) I finally ordered one. Now, without a doubt…this is the best shooting board I’ve ever seen. Worth every cent!
The angle isn’t critical…I believe I mentioned measurements in the video. That downward angle helps tremendously as you lean into the workpiece to hold it securely.
Yeah, I should have shown more about the magnet parts.
The MagSwitch is attracted to an embedded metal plate…looks to be about 2” (51mm) or so. But a rare earth magnet could also work underneath (and embedded). Thanks a ton!
Fantastic video Ramon, much appreciated. I'm planning on making one using my SO and have 90% designed in Fusion 360. However, having read the attached comments and having thought about it a bit more I'm not convinced the angled base is really worth the trip? The rationale is that it helps to hold the workpiece tightly down to the base. However, if you're using a shooting plan with a skewed blade (I use the Lie Neilson shooter which does) then the skew angle is effectively offset (as one or more posts have noted). The skew not only helps reduce cutting load (an easier cut) but is also introduced a down force component that helps keep the workpiece in place. Maybe the original design from Tico was developed to work with a standard bench plane where the angled base introduces a skew component rather than eliminates it?
Yes…valid points. I’ve been looking at mine regarding this topic and the angle of the base is negligible compared to the skew of the blade. You’re still absolutely getting a sheering cut. Not sure how much the angled base helps, but it feels right. And I like the fact that the angle helps use more of the width of the blade. Occasionally, I’ll add a board against the fence to bring the workpiece towards me and further use more width of the blade. Thanks a ton!
Nice! I have the Lie-Nielsen version of the shooting plane and it’s a beast. I have a couple of different shooting boards including a ramped on but the are definitely not as nice as that one.
I’ve heard about his shooting boards before but this is the first one I’ve seen.
Thanks for sharing.
That LN is a beautiful plane! This one does really well. I like that powdered steel! 😆 PM V-11 takes an edge well and holds it too.
Thank you so much for teaching. I always walk away with information "gems" from your videos, so don't second-guess yourself on that point.
I've been on the fence about that exact plane. My current set-up is my heaviest, squarest plane on its side and I can get results (with effort.) Seeing that guide rail on the right of the board makes so much sense and the shape of a dedicated shooting plane allows that to exist.
Unrelated to shooting, you mentioned not using a plane on ply and I'm curious about your reason. I do it often with my block plane and I'd hate to damage it. I don't mind if it's just excessive dulling (I've got a fairly good sharpening routine before projects.)
Thanks for any advice!
Thank you so much for watching!
Yes, I love the idea of a dedicated plane designed for a shooting board and the fence to guide it is superb!
I use my planes on plywood even though I don’t like it! 😆 It’s really, as you mentioned, a quickly dulling issue. Especially with the fence being an upright section of plywood. I may change it to solid wood. I feel like most plywoods’, with their multi layers of cross grain and rigid glue are hard on a sharp blade…but then again, it’s just a tool right? Sharpening is easy. Thanks a ton
Awesome content as usual. It would be awesome if plans were available for this along with the source for the locating pins and sockets. Steve
Yeah, I know. I was hesitant to ask too much about stuff like that. Tico put a ton of time and effort when he manufactured these. But I do think with the few measurements I shared, one could get super close. Hardware could probably be found from McMaster Carr…
Yes, after a quick search you can find locating pins that look very similar on McMaster Carr as well as hole liner @@ramonartful
Thanks!@@mukfu
I have to agree, the handle should be moved forward to allow more direct control/pressure over the blade area. Otherwise, the plane is fine especially with the blade (iron) skewed 20° to reduce resistance and make a shearing cut that leaves a clean finish on end grain.
However, building a board with a table DOWN, you’ve now reduced the angle of attack (approaching 90°) thereby minimizing the function of the skewed blade feature.
Yes, in order to make full use of the blade width, we’ve sacrificed the skewed function of the plane.
So, here’s what I propose:
1. Level table BUT raised
2. Shooting board track fillers (3/4”?) to raise the plane incrementally as the blade gets dull.
3. Delete plywood stop, Add hardwood-easier on the blade
4. Optional: Use Low-friction UHMW tape on track
Soooo, where do we find all the parts to build one?
Cheers,
N
Awww, yeah valid points! However, the down hill angle is minimal as related to the angle of attack. I do feel like that slight angle does help with pushing the pieces tight to the fence.
And I like the hardwood backer idea. Sometimes I use a scrap board (solid wood with parallel sides) to bring the work away from the fence in order to introduce a new area of the blade. It’s also a backer. I wish I had showed that in the video. Much thanks.
That is one nice shooting board. Too bad your friend doesn't make them anymore.
I know, it’s true. But, with these few measurements and a good view of the features, one should be able to make one that is very similar with exact and incredible function! Thanks
That’s a beautiful shooting board. With all due respect if I were to build it, I would reverse the angle. Currently having the workpiece at an angle relative to the plane is navigating the angle of the blade in the plane which helps to slice through the board. Reversing the angle where the plane cuts down into the board would complement the angle of the blade and also force the wood down into the front stop block. Just my two cents. it is a beautiful shooting board and I’m sure it works great as is.
I’m not sure I understand. The downward pressure of the ramp holds the workpiece securely. In addition, the weight of my body pushing downhill makes it easier to hold and push the shooting plane forward. Let me know what I’m missing. Thanks
@@ramonartful Ramon, I wanted to see if it could be made so that the plane was cutting down into the board like a hand saw does. But after looking at a few other videos of boards like this one that showed different views so I could see it a bit better, I've come around to see what you've known. And that is it works great and as you mentioned the isn't enough to cause any problems that I might have been trying to solve. 🫤
I watched and implemented your belt sander/sanding technique on my last two bed builds, I can't thank you enough! I have more sanders than "Carter has pills", but I still find that I'm reaching for my Makita quite often when fast, flat sanding is needed. I just took some time to learn the "Goose-it" technique, and I was off to the races! My mother used the phrase as well. 😉
All the Best, Chuck.
@@toolchuck Ok, great to hear! Thanks
I had the same issue with the handle. So I took it off and choked up on the body, but holding just the body with downward pressure makes it want to tip. The handle keeps the downward pressure to the base of the plane keeping it flat.
So do you use it with or without the handle? I don’t find it tippy at all the way I hold it. Feels quite natural to me. Much thanks.
Without.
Took my handle off recently. You’re right! So much better! Much thanks.
Thanks for the great video.
One thing that I have always wondered is what happens to your 45 degree cuts when you incline the bed relative to the blade. At 5 degrees, or whatever the angle on this one is, it wont make a significant difference on a single joint, but on all of these things it doubles per joint, so if you are shooting 8 miters on a frame then it's 8 times the error. To make imagining the issue a bit clearer think what would happen to the angle you are cutting on the wood if you inclined the bed to 90 degrees rather than 5 degrees. You are now cutting a square cut. Bring the bed down to 45 degrees and the effect is less, i.e. the angle you are cutting is closer to 45 degrees, and when you come down to 5 degrees it's less still, but still there.
Is there something in this geometry that I am missing?
I’m not sure I understand what you’re referring to.
The shooting board bed or platform is angled, yes. But, even with the angle of the platform raised…the face of the miter being cut is dead flat against the sole of the plane.
Does that make sense or am I missing your point? Thanks
Ramon, You are of course correct. It took me a little while to work through it in my head but I understand it now. Now to see if I can adapt my current shooting board to this concept. Thanks again.
Sure thing! Reach out if you have any questions or just want to show your shooting board! @@johnmcgrath9227
Ramon, I know this isn't your design but do you think that you will ever be able to sell plans for this ?
Well…the design could be copied quite easily but the attachments were all created with CNC for extreme accuracy. It too bad Tico doesn’t make them anymore. So, the short answer is not likely. I would love to keep his design going (giving him full credit) but I just don’t have the time. Thanks
@@ramonartful How about building a file and putting it into Shaper Origin ?
Yeah…that is definitely a good idea. I’ll add this to my list but no promises on a time.
I’m assuming you have the Shaper Origin? Would you be interested in making digital files? I don’t think copying locations are critical, just as long as things line up for the new design.
Awesome tool, but for the thousands of dollars you will pay for this setup, the end difference will be nil, with a shop made shooting board and Stanley plane.
I don't agree. The precision, repeatability, being able to shoot picture frame and carcase miters and using the Auxiliary Base for custom angles add up to a whole lot more than nil.
@@ticovogt Exactly my point, all of which can be achieved with a shop-built shooting board and basic plane. You don't need a $2000 setup to do the same thing.
To each their own , I suppose. I’m not sure what you mean “thousands of dollars”. I have less than 900 (including the plane) in this setup which is superbly made and extremely accurate. Could I achieve this with my old shooting board and a low angle plane? Yes, kinda. But it didn’t feel nearly the same. Besides the incredible function of the shooting board, a shooting plane is designed to have added mass…which creates nearly effortless action as you shoot that end grain. Such a pleasure to use! I guarantee I would not enjoy the process as I do now…and, the cost of what I have in this set up…I never even think of that!
Please wear a clip-on microphone so your voice can be heard.
Working on better audio. Thanks for the feedback!