Tools and Parts Used 1/2 Masonry Drill Bit: geni.us/rOSw8 1/2 Concrete Wedge Bolts: geni.us/EvBecg Skilsaw: geni.us/J8pWhL Diablo Blade Used: geni.us/RRCX3x7 Jig Saw Used: geni.us/2UNzkA Framing Square: geni.us/JGiRDLY Stair Gauges: geni.us/VIw34sT 4.5 inch Structural Lag Screws: geni.us/NCp6CCx 6 inch Structural Lag Screws: geni.us/iGBW5 Pressure Treated 2 x 12 for Stringers Stringer Connector Plates: geni.us/ZIYyB Hot Dipped Nails: geni.us/7argjy DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
For a very novice home project guy, like myself, this was extremely helpful and very clear! One thing that I did because I had some time to think through how I needed to build my stringers is that I built some test patterns out of cardboard first, to see if my dimensions were working out how I needed them to. Good thing, the first two patterns I cut out were way off! :) Third time's a charm and now I'm ready to use the saw to cut out my 2x12's. Thanks again!
This is the clearest explanation for building deck stairs I have seen. Thank you so much for including wood dimensions, tools and hardware needed as well as how to measure rise and run.
I’m planning on attaching wood on the vertical….when cutting for the stringer, do I just add to the depth of the tread? (I know, probably a dumb question) I have a total of 7 steps going up to the top of my deck but I don’t want to leave it open underneath. Thanks!
I checked out a couple videos on this topic for decking stairs and this is by far the best and the last one in my hunt because of the quality. Thank you! I subscribed right away!
Great video. Short and to the point. Tge steps thst go from one level to another exceed the code, snd are a but hsrd on the knees to get up and down. They used steel risers from home depot, but I want to build stairs with a 6.5" rise to be more comfortable. This video definitely helps me plan this.
Warning! Before you start cutting your stringers with the circular saw, check that your saw blade is square! Even if the angle measurement shows that it is set to 0 degrees, it might not be square. This was the case for me and I didn't realize it until after I had finished cutting one of the stringers.
ah, i see we done the same thing. I had a Skil circular saw, and i noticed the plate was bent after cutting some lumber. had to go get another one. so frustrating.
very solid install. im doin a 6 step staircase and need to have rails with guard post on the bottom. if installing that 2x4 cleat to anchor it to the concrete it will be in the way to where the post is goin to go . any ideas on what to do in that situation? Tnx
Hey Sara, I was not planning on adding a riser to this set of stairs but if I did I would need to compensate for the riser board thickness in my measurements prior to cutting out the stringers. Best of luck on your project.
Hey Jack, Thanks for the call out as I don't know how I missed those in the video description. Here is what I used for securing the stairs to the concrete. Best of luck on the project. 1/2 Masonry Drill Bit: amzn.to/2EQRTV4 1/2 Concrete Wedge Bolts: amzn.to/2SqNATH
Few comments on the products you used: 1. Those HeadLOK structural screws you used when you were under the deck are friggin awesome. Not cheap. But worth the coin. I am currently in the middle of a deck remodel. (Resurfacing with Trex, etc.) I am trying to salvage as much of the existing framing as possible. I used the 4-1/2" version HeadLOK to shore up what is worth saving. After years of settling, warping, and nails rusting - the rim joist had pulled away and twisted from the main joists. I drove a few of these through the rim joist into the ends of the main joists and it sucked it right in, nice and flush. Tight as could be. It actually straighten the twisted board. 2. Along the same lines, I attached my posts with their ThruLOK product. Talk about solid. I tell people if you were to crash a truck into one of these deck posts, the Post will win. This company sells a solid line of products. 3. The Simpson Stringer plates you used and posted in the description, I am going to buy for my current build. I will probably drive a HeadLOK into each stringer from behind as well. But I like the idea of those hangers. Thanks for the video and nice work.
Hey Diesel Mike how's it going? Thanks for the additional feedback on your experience trying to get more life out of your worn out deck. I was also impressed by the FastenMaster lags and really liked the drill bit design as there is little chance of stripping while your torquing. Did you finish up your project?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks for responding. I am not done yet. The amount of prep work has been insane. I had to do an extreme amount of blocking. The deck is 15X30. The main joists were in decent enough shape, but there was no blocking throughout. I ran two rows to really strengthen it up. I am picture framing this deck with a double divider strip right down the middle. So that involved more blocking (one on each end & one down the middle) as well as repositioning some of the joists to accept the picture frame and location of the divider strips. I also had to replace all the posts as the old ones were notched which is no longer allowed. Not to mention they were wobbly as hell. So this weekend I did manage to get most of the picture frame installed. Here is a link to my Google album on the project. I may eventually edit and post a video to TH-cam. But there is no "action" shots. Right now I am working with the camera off and just filming some updates at the end of each day explaining what I did. photos.app.goo.gl/FNK8atzTiiK51LRYA
@@DieselMike Dang that is a lot of prep work but from the pictures looks like it is really starting to come together. I really like the picture framing and looking back on mine think that would have been a better option. I liked the idea of using 26 foot pressure treated to extend the width of my deck but didn't take into account the large amount of shrinkage that would occur along those 26 feet as the moisture worked out of the boards. Live and learn. Best of luck on the rest of the project and post the pics once you are done!
What would you need to change if you wanted to close off each of the steps with a board? How mid that done while maintaining the overhang on each step?
Install your riser boards then your tread. If you want an overhang just make sure every step has the same overhang. Your inspector then measures tread length from outside edge of lower step to outside edge of the above overhang. As long as your riser boards and tread boards are the same thickness and your overhang doesn’t vary, your tread length will remain the same. Ex. If you’re using 1” decking with a 3/4” overhang, use the 1” boards for both rise/tread.
Amazing video. I am following your advice while building my deck. I like how you used the 4x4s and blocking to extend your rim joist for your stringers, but why did you double the rim joist?
Usually the gap will naturally form as the pressure treated wood dries out. Even if you place the 2 boards together over time a 1/8" - 1/4" gap will form. Best of luck on the project.
Hi Scott, nice quick to-the-point video on how to add deck stairs. That is my next project on my refurbished deck. Why no safety railings? How would you add railings if you had to, to meet local codes? Maybe you could make that another project video? Thanks.
As RTC pointed out, you may not have to. But if you have a deck above that minimum, you are probably going to want to build posts to support the railings (including on the stairs). There are videos out there on how it has been done. Blocking the deck posts is the "fun" part.
Hi Jamel, Could you jump over to our facebook group "Everyday Home Repairs Community" and post a few pics and your question. That would give me a much better idea of your specific scenario and I can provide my 2 cents. Thanks!
I installed it the week prior. Here is the video outlining the concrete slab part of the project. th-cam.com/video/lKoekm35gjs/w-d-xo.html Best of luck on the project!
Hey Jose, I would check the local code but here in Illinois we usually have a minimum overall width of stairs being 36" and people usually use 3 stringers for this setup. Since I was a bit wider than 36" I went for 4 stringers. Also depends if you are using deck boards like me for the treads or thicker 2" lumber for your treads. Best of luck on the project!
Nice job! Is it possible to predict-cast galvanized or stainless threaded bolts into the cement pad. Rather than drill holes? I don’t have access to a roto-hammer. Also, any need for steel (rebar) in the pad or can it just be poured? We are coming down an 8-step stairway to lower lawn.
I liked the video...but I sorta agree with the one rude comment about the pace of measuring and cutting the risers...which is the most confusing part - to me at least. Where do you make the first mark/cut from the end of the board. And where did you get the nifty little clamps for the square?
I just had a question about the bolts you used in the concrete. Do they go directly into the hole you drilled or was there some kind of plug that had to be hammered in for it to grab onto? Do the bolts just grab into the cement? Would it work if they were bolted into a premade cement patio slab or are they usually too thin? Thanks
Hey Sam, when using the wedge anchor bolts like the ones in the video they are just place directly in the hole. The bolts grab because as you tighten the nut a wedge is pulled up into a collar that starts to expand and gets "wedged" into the hole. In regards to your cement patio slab you would just want to ensure the bolt used fits into a solid hole and does not poke out the bottom. Also remember you will want a hammer drill with the recommended masonry bit for the anchor bolts. Best of luck on the project!
I have the same situation and an wondering that too. We purchase our house in 2000. The previous owner built a deck on the back at the first floor level. But we live on a slope. There are no stairs to the ground level. The rise is about 7-8 feet. I’m wondering how many stringers I’m going to need and their spacing.
This is exactly what I need but for months now, I just cannot do it. My deck height is 32” height. Where it lands is 34” though, so I guess my ground slopes down a bit. When I try to calculate my stringers, it never comes out right. I want three steps just like yours. The code over here is 8 1/4 max height (rise + tread). Is it possible for me to even get away with 3 steps or must I raise my landing height to 33” (4 x 8 1/4)? I have cut out multiple stringers using cardboard and it never works. This is driving me crazy and wee haven’t been able to use our deck for nearly a year, since I began replacing all of the wood.m. Any suggestions?
I put about 4 inches of gravel or base in the hole and then roughly 5 inches of concrete with some wire mesh. You can see the whole project here th-cam.com/video/lKoekm35gjs/w-d-xo.html Best of luck on your project!
Not yet, I let it sit for this past season and will seal the deck next spring along with adding some seating. I was planning on just using Thompsons Waterseal.
There are formulas that determined acceptable rise and run and if it is being built in a code-enforced area, you might have to. But maybe you are thinking of a landing between each step.
You'll need handrails with posts on each corner to support them (and bracing on the posts). There are other videos on TH-cam that show ways of doing that. And of course, if this is for a deck, at that altitude, you'll want to build railings around the deck.
Don't follow this guy's advice - his stairs have no support at the back, just hanging off the rim joist. Longer stairs would mean a longer fall if they break loose. *Longer flight means there might be more weight/people on it, besides its own greater weight. **27 yrs., licensed residential builder.
very good job application but I guess you did miss something to put some insulation between the wood and the surface ( concrete.......)and am sorry for that it's not a complain but advice am amateur trying to learn from others as much as I can with using your own knowledge. you learn me something as well great futur from Scandinavia 😇🤣
@@Sssanbo ; I heard a vapor barrier could be used to keep the wood from directly contacting the cement and thereby preventing rot. However, I’m not sure if it’s really needed.
here you have to close the back of the stairs in and you have to put railings on if you have more than 2 steps . I have to replace my stringers because the builder overcut the stringers and weakened the stairs. They were splitting at that point on the stringers . I guess he did not want to use the extra care to use a jig saw. I bought stringers with 6 steps because the pressure treated wood to build the stringers was wet and in horrible shape . Full of knots also and some knots were falling out .
Nice clear job.........however you have left out an important step, weather proofing. Sealing the cut ends and adding joist tape between the stringers and the treads as well as between the bottom and where the stringers touch the cement. Every hole where a screw attaches the tread to the stringers is a conduit for water promoting fast rot and early compromise of the support framework. Guess it might not matter much in New Mexico, Arizona ect but in the S.E. or Seattle those simple cheap steps will multiply the life of the stairs. You do too good of a job to have it needlessly rot early.
Thanks. I live in the SE. I’m needing to create stairs to my back deck. That’s good to know. My rise though will be about 7 feet. I’ll have to work all of this out on paper before starting.
Oh yeah, it is pretty amazing how much they shrink once the moisture comes out. I don’t think we have any decay but I will definitely be recutting the overhang on each end and possibly even shifting the end boards closer together to get and better overhang on the final board away from the house.
I checked out the stress relief cuts and that is a great technique. I will use it on the other side of the deck. For the risers I am keeping this set open so you are right I did not take that spacing into consideration for the cuts.
If I am have someone ( not a licensed contractor) add 3 steps to a deck, what is a fair price to pay him? I only have the wood that was left over from the deck.
Maybe it's been asked before, but... Counter sink holes for screws in stair treads? Drawbacks / perks to using nails for joist hangers? Doing a small project like this right around the corner - just want to confirm some details. Thanks!
I've seen the "structural screws" but I figure the 1/2" carriage bolts are far more reliable. Over time screws bite threw wood fibers and loosen up. Then the lumber starts to move, which leads to cracks. In addition, you fastened your stringer heads to the rim joist using the simpson hangers and that's pretty good, and you fastened your stinger feet using a plate. But that creates an awkward stringer assembly that you carry and lift into place. I prefer to cut the stringers on a bench, and fasten them on the bench with top and bottom plates. That way, when the assembly is moved into position, the stringers are fully supported. Unlike you, I prefer to use full width stringer plates - 2x12 (you used a 2x4). Also, I recommend you reinforce the stringer feet/bottom plate interface with either Simpson brackets - or - 2x lumber to prevent future stringer foot twists, or rotational movement. (It's called "blocking") Yes, the decking and risers will prevent that. But, not nearly as well as structural lumber, or engineered steel. I like the way you built the concrete landing, and I like the way you attached the stringer foot plate. However, I'm undecided on whether the foot plate needs to be fastened, or should be because ultimately the treated lumber will shrink. And the concrete pad is likely to rise and fall. As such, a floating stringer foot/plate might be wise because it allows for micro movement without pulling the fasteners apart. Pretty sure that "code" has 2 safety issues that you missed. 1 is the "risers". Risers are a safety issue because without them people can slip their foot into the gaps and break their leg. The other issue is that code requires "hand rails" on both sides for stairs. Another interesting note, is that (last time I looked) Code required no more than a 7 1/4" rise. But that's a lot for a older person. I prefer to add an extra step or 2 , and get the rises down to 5 inches.
Tools and Parts Used
1/2 Masonry Drill Bit: geni.us/rOSw8
1/2 Concrete Wedge Bolts: geni.us/EvBecg
Skilsaw: geni.us/J8pWhL
Diablo Blade Used: geni.us/RRCX3x7
Jig Saw Used: geni.us/2UNzkA
Framing Square: geni.us/JGiRDLY
Stair Gauges: geni.us/VIw34sT
4.5 inch Structural Lag Screws: geni.us/NCp6CCx
6 inch Structural Lag Screws: geni.us/iGBW5
Pressure Treated 2 x 12 for Stringers
Stringer Connector Plates: geni.us/ZIYyB
Hot Dipped Nails: geni.us/7argjy
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
For a very novice home project guy, like myself, this was extremely helpful and very clear! One thing that I did because I had some time to think through how I needed to build my stringers is that I built some test patterns out of cardboard first, to see if my dimensions were working out how I needed them to. Good thing, the first two patterns I cut out were way off! :) Third time's a charm and now I'm ready to use the saw to cut out my 2x12's. Thanks again!
Great video, self employed carpenter here. You make a good teacher.
Thanks Patrick, appreciate it.
This is the clearest explanation for building deck stairs I have seen. Thank you so much for including wood dimensions, tools and hardware needed as well as how to measure rise and run.
You bet and best of luck on your project.
I’m planning on attaching wood on the vertical….when cutting for the stringer, do I just add to the depth of the tread? (I know, probably a dumb question)
I have a total of 7 steps going up to the top of my deck but I don’t want to leave it open underneath. Thanks!
Well explained and helpful. I was throwing around multiple ideas to attach my stairs on almost same set-up as you've got there. Nice and solid,Thanks.
I checked out a couple videos on this topic for decking stairs and this is by far the best and the last one in my hunt because of the quality. Thank you! I subscribed right away!
Thanks John and welcome to the channel 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I finished my outdoor stair project yesterday flawlessly and your advice and forethought played a large part! Thanks again!
My first set of stairs connected precut stringers to back porch. Went well using good info in this video. Thanks
You bet!
Thanks for the right/easy way to line out your stringers !!!
I’ve been so stressed out about replacing my steps up to my upper deck. Tysm for this video!
I’m sure I can do this now 🙌
Great walk through.
Good sound,
Clean & understandable description,
Great video. Short and to the point. Tge steps thst go from one level to another exceed the code, snd are a but hsrd on the knees to get up and down. They used steel risers from home depot, but I want to build stairs with a 6.5" rise to be more comfortable. This video definitely helps me plan this.
Awesome video! Thanks a bunch for the instruction and the links to the products!! Great time saver.
Warning! Before you start cutting your stringers with the circular saw, check that your saw blade is square! Even if the angle measurement shows that it is set to 0 degrees, it might not be square. This was the case for me and I didn't realize it until after I had finished cutting one of the stringers.
ah, i see we done the same thing. I had a Skil circular saw, and i noticed the plate was bent after cutting some lumber. had to go get another one. so frustrating.
This was an excellent tutorial! Very helpful.
Thank God for TH-cam ... I have to do this exact thing tomorrow.
I don't have to search thru my books or go buy one .
Hahaha, yeah TH-cam has been a game changer for us Weekend Warriors. Best of luck on your project!
very solid install. im doin a 6 step staircase and need to have rails with guard post on the bottom. if installing that 2x4 cleat to anchor it to the concrete it will be in the way to where the post is goin to go . any ideas on what to do in that situation? Tnx
Me gusta mucho ver tus videos.
Gracias.!!
Good tips brother!!! That really help the new people like me,
Thanks for the tutorial!
I like how you got down and showed how you attached your risers.
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Thanks for the awesome video
Very helpful and clear instruction and information 👍👍👍🧐🧐🧐🧐
Thanks Richard 🙌
very good video thank you. how did you secure the 2X12 blocking pieces to the deck?
Thanks for the vid! Happen to recall how deep you drilled those holes into the concrete?
What did you use for the back to cover the holes
Do you have a video to build an inside corner set of stairs?
This was a cool video make me want to get off my butt in finally put them steps I been wanting on my deck thanks.
Get after it Jonathan 👊
Why do you need the ride and run for? How does that help with the stringer?
What size concrete anchors did you use?
Will you ever add a face or kick plate board to the stairs?? Looking for a good tutorial for that!
Hey Sara, I was not planning on adding a riser to this set of stairs but if I did I would need to compensate for the riser board thickness in my measurements prior to cutting out the stringers. Best of luck on your project.
Awesome, thank you.
Hi there, what was the 1/2" bit and fasteners you used at 10:38?
Hey Jack,
Thanks for the call out as I don't know how I missed those in the video description. Here is what I used for securing the stairs to the concrete. Best of luck on the project.
1/2 Masonry Drill Bit: amzn.to/2EQRTV4
1/2 Concrete Wedge Bolts: amzn.to/2SqNATH
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks!
Few comments on the products you used:
1. Those HeadLOK structural screws you used when you were under the deck are friggin awesome. Not cheap. But worth the coin. I am currently in the middle of a deck remodel. (Resurfacing with Trex, etc.) I am trying to salvage as much of the existing framing as possible. I used the 4-1/2" version HeadLOK to shore up what is worth saving. After years of settling, warping, and nails rusting - the rim joist had pulled away and twisted from the main joists. I drove a few of these through the rim joist into the ends of the main joists and it sucked it right in, nice and flush. Tight as could be. It actually straighten the twisted board.
2. Along the same lines, I attached my posts with their ThruLOK product. Talk about solid. I tell people if you were to crash a truck into one of these deck posts, the Post will win. This company sells a solid line of products.
3. The Simpson Stringer plates you used and posted in the description, I am going to buy for my current build. I will probably drive a HeadLOK into each stringer from behind as well. But I like the idea of those hangers.
Thanks for the video and nice work.
Hey Diesel Mike how's it going? Thanks for the additional feedback on your experience trying to get more life out of your worn out deck. I was also impressed by the FastenMaster lags and really liked the drill bit design as there is little chance of stripping while your torquing. Did you finish up your project?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks for responding. I am not done yet. The amount of prep work has been insane. I had to do an extreme amount of blocking. The deck is 15X30. The main joists were in decent enough shape, but there was no blocking throughout. I ran two rows to really strengthen it up.
I am picture framing this deck with a double divider strip right down the middle. So that involved more blocking (one on each end & one down the middle) as well as repositioning some of the joists to accept the picture frame and location of the divider strips.
I also had to replace all the posts as the old ones were notched which is no longer allowed. Not to mention they were wobbly as hell.
So this weekend I did manage to get most of the picture frame installed.
Here is a link to my Google album on the project. I may eventually edit and post a video to TH-cam. But there is no "action" shots. Right now I am working with the camera off and just filming some updates at the end of each day explaining what I did.
photos.app.goo.gl/FNK8atzTiiK51LRYA
@@DieselMike Dang that is a lot of prep work but from the pictures looks like it is really starting to come together. I really like the picture framing and looking back on mine think that would have been a better option. I liked the idea of using 26 foot pressure treated to extend the width of my deck but didn't take into account the large amount of shrinkage that would occur along those 26 feet as the moisture worked out of the boards. Live and learn. Best of luck on the rest of the project and post the pics once you are done!
Did you fasten the bottom face of the hanger or just the side?
What would you need to change if you wanted to close off each of the steps with a board? How mid that done while maintaining the overhang on each step?
Install your riser boards then your tread. If you want an overhang just make sure every step has the same overhang. Your inspector then measures tread length from outside edge of lower step to outside edge of the above overhang. As long as your riser boards and tread boards are the same thickness and your overhang doesn’t vary, your tread length will remain the same. Ex. If you’re using 1” decking with a 3/4” overhang, use the 1” boards for both rise/tread.
Amazing video. I am following your advice while building my deck.
I like how you used the 4x4s and blocking to extend your rim joist for your stringers, but why did you double the rim joist?
So it will line up w the existing double rim joist
Thanks for the vid! Really useful.
How did you determine how many stringers you needed and how far apart they should be?
That 11th deck board is messing with me. It mocks me. I'm freakin out man! Nice vid!
😂
I live in Florida where there is a lot of heat and rain, should I put a gap between the treads? Great video!
Usually the gap will naturally form as the pressure treated wood dries out. Even if you place the 2 boards together over time a 1/8" - 1/4" gap will form. Best of luck on the project.
Did you nail the stringer connector plates, I'm assuming, or so it appears? How many nails did you put in there?
The best video! Its the only one that i needed to see. Thank you
thanks for the explanation!
Hi Scott, nice quick to-the-point video on how to add deck stairs. That is my next project on my refurbished deck. Why no safety railings? How would you add railings if you had to, to meet local codes? Maybe you could make that another project video? Thanks.
You only need safety railings if your deck is over 24 inches from the ground
As RTC pointed out, you may not have to. But if you have a deck above that minimum, you are probably going to want to build posts to support the railings (including on the stairs). There are videos out there on how it has been done. Blocking the deck posts is the "fun" part.
do you have to have the 1 inch hangover?
Great video!
What about if u have a window well in front of the door. Do i need to build some type of landing as well to cover the window well?
Hi Jamel, Could you jump over to our facebook group "Everyday Home Repairs Community" and post a few pics and your question. That would give me a much better idea of your specific scenario and I can provide my 2 cents. Thanks!
Possible to presassemble a stair way for raised front porch then just attach the whole thing to the rim joist of the deck?
th-cam.com/video/YHaVEN6ijxU/w-d-xo.html
Great explanation! I gotta do the same thing but with a 6 stair stringer. Where did you get your concrete landing area? Thanks.
I installed it the week prior. Here is the video outlining the concrete slab part of the project. th-cam.com/video/lKoekm35gjs/w-d-xo.html Best of luck on the project!
if you go on decks.com, it’ll give you your estimated run
Good day
Like to know the maximum width I were to use 2 pieces
stair stringers
Hey Jose, I would check the local code but here in Illinois we usually have a minimum overall width of stairs being 36" and people usually use 3 stringers for this setup. Since I was a bit wider than 36" I went for 4 stringers. Also depends if you are using deck boards like me for the treads or thicker 2" lumber for your treads. Best of luck on the project!
Nice job! Is it possible to predict-cast galvanized or stainless threaded bolts into the cement pad. Rather than drill holes? I don’t have access to a roto-hammer. Also, any need for steel (rebar) in the pad or can it just be poured? We are coming down an 8-step stairway to lower lawn.
Could you just use a drill bit designed for concrete?
I liked the video...but I sorta agree with the one rude comment about the pace of measuring and cutting the risers...which is the most confusing part - to me at least. Where do you make the first mark/cut from the end of the board. And where did you get the nifty little clamps for the square?
Thanks for the feedback. You can usually find little gauges at home improvement stores or here is a link on Amazon. amzn.to/3sOj9fe
Good job 👏
I just had a question about the bolts you used in the concrete. Do they go directly into the hole you drilled or was there some kind of plug that had to be hammered in for it to grab onto? Do the bolts just grab into the cement? Would it work if they were bolted into a premade cement patio slab or are they usually too thin? Thanks
Hey Sam, when using the wedge anchor bolts like the ones in the video they are just place directly in the hole. The bolts grab because as you tighten the nut a wedge is pulled up into a collar that starts to expand and gets "wedged" into the hole. In regards to your cement patio slab you would just want to ensure the bolt used fits into a solid hole and does not poke out the bottom. Also remember you will want a hammer drill with the recommended masonry bit for the anchor bolts. Best of luck on the project!
Well explained tutorial, thanks.
Thanks Jamil, best of luck on your project!
How far apart do you space the stringers a client wants a 10ft set of steps on her deck
I have the same situation and an wondering that too. We purchase our house in 2000. The previous owner built a deck on the back at the first floor level. But we live on a slope. There are no stairs to the ground level. The rise is about 7-8 feet. I’m wondering how many stringers I’m going to need and their spacing.
Curious about two things....stringer hangers? Riser kick boards? We usually recommend them for safety purposes.
Building code only requires kick boards when the height of the stairs is above 32". Same for handrails.
Awesome video! Did I miss it or did you mention how far apart the stringers should be? Also, are you just a big Jimmy Johns fan, or what? 😂
Thanks glad I watched
No Problem!
This is exactly what I need but for months now, I just cannot do it. My deck height is 32” height. Where it lands is 34” though, so I guess my ground slopes down a bit. When I try to calculate my stringers, it never comes out right. I want three steps just like yours. The code over here is 8 1/4 max height (rise + tread). Is it possible for me to even get away with 3 steps or must I raise my landing height to 33” (4 x 8 1/4)? I have cut out multiple stringers using cardboard and it never works. This is driving me crazy and wee haven’t been able to use our deck for nearly a year, since I began replacing all of the wood.m. Any suggestions?
Thanks
How thick is the landing pad slab?
I put about 4 inches of gravel or base in the hole and then roughly 5 inches of concrete with some wire mesh. You can see the whole project here th-cam.com/video/lKoekm35gjs/w-d-xo.html Best of luck on your project!
Excellent, thanks! Great video, by the way.
how do u do it if its dirt where the landing will be?
Mine has a board on the ground instead of cement- idk if this is correct but it’s not dirt 🤷🏻♂️
lay you some rectangled or square pavers on the ground for support and to keep it off of ground.
Definitely want some hard surface. As others have mentioned - pavers work well.
I love the sound of the high speed hammering. 😂😂
How tall and wide is the stair set
Good video, how long did it take?
With four Risers I Assume a handrail was provided. Thanks for sharing your techniques
How long does this take?
Hello! What screws did you use to attach the treads to the stringers?
Hey Michael, I used Deckmate 3 inch screws homedepot.sjv.io/jk9D0 Best of luck on the project!
Why do you need the rise and run?
Did you treat your deck? If so want materials did you use?
Not yet, I let it sit for this past season and will seal the deck next spring along with adding some seating. I was planning on just using Thompsons Waterseal.
I love carpentry sounds in 3x speed
Who doesn’t 😁
🙏 gracias!!
Nice! Is it possible to have longer run with only 2 steps? Assuming u didn't want the steps any further out then they are
There are formulas that determined acceptable rise and run and if it is being built in a code-enforced area, you might have to. But maybe you are thinking of a landing between each step.
It’s the process the same for longer flights of stairs?
You'll need handrails with posts on each corner to support them (and bracing on the posts). There are other videos on TH-cam that show ways of doing that. And of course, if this is for a deck, at that altitude, you'll want to build railings around the deck.
Don't follow this guy's advice - his stairs have no support at the back, just hanging off the rim joist. Longer stairs would mean a longer fall if they break loose. *Longer flight means there might be more weight/people on it, besides its own greater weight. **27 yrs., licensed residential builder.
Very nicely done. Thanks!
very good job application but I guess you did miss something to put some insulation between the wood and the surface ( concrete.......)and am sorry for that it's not a complain but advice am amateur trying to learn from others as much as I can with using your own knowledge. you learn me something as well great futur from Scandinavia 😇🤣
Thanks for the feedback 👍
What would be the insulation material
@@Sssanbo ; I heard a vapor barrier could be used to keep the wood from directly contacting the cement and thereby preventing rot. However, I’m not sure if it’s really needed.
here you have to close the back of the stairs in and you have to put railings on if you have more than 2 steps . I have to replace my stringers because the builder overcut the stringers and weakened the stairs. They were splitting at that point on the stringers . I guess he did not want to use the extra care to use a jig saw. I bought stringers with 6 steps because the pressure treated wood to build the stringers was wet and in horrible shape . Full of knots also and some knots were falling out .
9:08 Warning - This notching technique is not necessary and could lead to problems. Consider other options: th-cam.com/video/HYAb3uflKhE/w-d-xo.html
great
How wide is that stairs?
Nice clear job.........however you have left out an important step, weather proofing. Sealing the cut ends and adding joist tape between the stringers and the treads as well as between the bottom and where the stringers touch the cement. Every hole where a screw attaches the tread to the stringers is a conduit for water promoting fast rot and early compromise of the support framework. Guess it might not matter much in New Mexico, Arizona ect but in the S.E. or Seattle those simple cheap steps will multiply the life of the stairs.
You do too good of a job to have it needlessly rot early.
Thanks. I live in the SE. I’m needing to create stairs to my back deck. That’s good to know. My rise though will be about 7 feet. I’ll have to work all of this out on paper before starting.
Any videos on building a new wood fence:)
not trolling here but shouldn't you place all the deck boards with the growth rings DOWN to minimize cupping?
For sure, that would have been best practice. Thanks for the feedback 👍
Holey cow, those boards sure have changed since you laid them! Seeing some huge gaps, cracks, and potentially some decay already.
Oh yeah, it is pretty amazing how much they shrink once the moisture comes out. I don’t think we have any decay but I will definitely be recutting the overhang on each end and possibly even shifting the end boards closer together to get and better overhang on the final board away from the house.
The only thing I would add is the vertical pieces above the steps to stop a foot going through in wet weather, usually a kid who's running..
I would think the zinc plated bolts will rust out
You didn't cut release cuts for the crown of the board for your stringer or put a 1x8 for your risers
I checked out the stress relief cuts and that is a great technique. I will use it on the other side of the deck. For the risers I am keeping this set open so you are right I did not take that spacing into consideration for the cuts.
Very 😎
Very what?
Very Cool 😎
That one top board thats shorter than the others (i assume for hand rail post) is driving me nuts.
A year later I realize the ends of the deck boards just haven't been snipped yet.
If I am have someone ( not a licensed contractor) add 3 steps to a deck, what is a fair price to pay him? I only have the wood that was left over from the deck.
Hanger are not needed with the bottom plate anchored.
I watched this to see how the hardware was attached. Maybe you should change the view so it is not hidden behind the other side. This video was bust.
Two things for my observation, I better prefer skirting around the deck and I dont like the steps with open risers on the stringers
This is proof that metrics better.
Maybe it's been asked before, but...
Counter sink holes for screws in stair treads?
Drawbacks / perks to using nails for joist hangers?
Doing a small project like this right around the corner - just want to confirm some details. Thanks!
The issue is whether or not PREVIOUS work was done correctly. I closed a screen in porch, and nothing was square, so it was all custom cut lengths.
If you're bored you can come build me some steps.
I will add you to the list 😉
I've seen the "structural screws" but I figure the 1/2" carriage bolts are far more reliable. Over time screws bite threw wood fibers and loosen up. Then the lumber starts to move, which leads to cracks.
In addition, you fastened your stringer heads to the rim joist using the simpson hangers and that's pretty good, and you fastened your stinger feet using a plate. But that creates an awkward stringer assembly that you carry and lift into place.
I prefer to cut the stringers on a bench, and fasten them on the bench with top and bottom plates. That way, when the assembly is moved into position, the stringers are fully supported.
Unlike you, I prefer to use full width stringer plates - 2x12 (you used a 2x4). Also, I recommend you reinforce the stringer feet/bottom plate interface with either Simpson brackets - or - 2x lumber to prevent future stringer foot twists, or rotational movement. (It's called "blocking") Yes, the decking and risers will prevent that. But, not nearly as well as structural lumber, or engineered steel.
I like the way you built the concrete landing, and I like the way you attached the stringer foot plate. However, I'm undecided on whether the foot plate needs to be fastened, or should be because ultimately the treated lumber will shrink. And the concrete pad is likely to rise and fall. As such, a floating stringer foot/plate might be wise because it allows for micro movement without pulling the fasteners apart.
Pretty sure that "code" has 2 safety issues that you missed. 1 is the "risers". Risers are a safety issue because without them people can slip their foot into the gaps and break their leg. The other issue is that code requires "hand rails" on both sides for stairs.
Another interesting note, is that (last time I looked) Code required no more than a 7 1/4" rise. But that's a lot for a older person. I prefer to add an extra step or 2 , and get the rises down to 5 inches.
Couldn't hear him for the bird chirping