Jesse, thank you for this information, it's incredibly helpful. I'm in CT. If anyone in your service area sees your video's, I'd be shocked if you do not get their business in two seconds.
We have a video CE course coming in the spring or summer of 2023 that covers a new method we have started using. We cover our old way of doing PFE in this video th-cam.com/video/tM7sXZ0nLOk/w-d-xo.html
It will be interesting to hear how this works for you. The EPA has done studies and found sealing alone is not an effective method to significantly reduce radon. Keep us posted!
Thank you, Jesse! I had an inspection on a house we are purchasing done by someone who turned out not to be licensed here in New York. And the result was very high (20!), so we will definitely be installing a mitigation system. My question now, though, is whether they should then have followed up by testing the soil or water. We paid $200 for the inspection.
You're welcome! I’m sorry for your trouble. Here in Minnesota, we test the air for radon. However, radon in water is not an issue here. I'm not sure if that's the case where you live. You can always do a DIY radon test for the air or water.
Thanks for all the valuable info you provide through your channel! You've mentioned putting the fan in a garage attic. I live in a place that is often below 30* in the winter and has several weeks over 100* in the summer. Will the fan be able to function in an attic exposed to these sorts of temperatures? I especially worry about the potential for overheating during the summertime...
Yes, it should be fine if you insulate the piping in the garage and attic. Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/h0g_UY5-Zew/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HJnkFimDYxnAb4D_
After having watched several of your videos, I am convinced that you are the only person I want to do my radon mitigation. Do you think you could come to southwest Pennsylvania? 😊
Am in Boston MA I wished I have seen this video before I hired a company without checking or asking the right questions with very negative results spent a fortune 😡
So, i have a quote from a local remediator in the Tampa area and the guy came by to look at the house and what he thinks he'd need to install before i watched this video. But after i received the quote i asked him about PFE testing and his reply was "No, that pressure field testing doesn't provide much info for slab on grade, no basement, typical Florida soils that we have in this area." Does this make sense to you or is it a red flag?
I don’t like guessing, so we do PFE testing on every project. Our specialty is getting radon as low as possible, and we rely on PFE data to achieve that. It’s relatively easy to get below 4.0 pCi/L, so if that’s their goal, that’s attainable without doing PFE. If your goal is as low as possible, I’d find someone who aligns with it.
@@AmericanRadonMitigation thanks for the quick reply. So, there wouldn't be any reason you can think of, that the environment in Florida with single-story slab homes without basements would mean PFE testing would be less useful?
No, and the radon standards require you to make at least one PFE measurement unless you use a loophole. Radon Standard Diagnostic Investigation: standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2023/13/index.html
All your videos seem to focus on houses that have a concrete slab over the ground. Do you work on houses that have a crawl space, and then a plastic barrier with a 4-in pipe connected to a radon fan providing the suction? We have a system like that but it doesn't seem to be working very well.
We don't do too many crawl space encapsulation jobs. Thankfully, most homes in Minnesota have basements with an occasional crawlspace under an addition. You'll want to be sure that all the seams are taped and the edges of your vapor barrier are secured and sealed to your foundation walls. You want your vapor barrier to be as airtight as possible. Ensuring that it is will likely help you get the results you're looking for.
What do you think about adding an HRV system instead of the system with a fan if you have a crawl space that isn't able to be sealed off properly? Do you have experience with HRV systems? Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I'm a bit confused about the radon levels after mitigation and what is considered safe. The WHO says levels should be under 2.7 pCi/L. The testing units say if you are between 2 and 4 pCi/L you should consider mitigation. My state's website says you should mitigate if you are over 4 pCi/L and the contractors I've looked at say they guarantee to get you under 4pCi/L. If under 2 pCi/L is considered "safe", what good is getting to just under 4 pCi/L going to do? Currently I'm at around 3.2 pCi/L and I'm not sure what I should do. I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks.
Since there’s no “safe” level of radon, a radioactive gas that may cause lung cancer, we feel like it’s best to get it as low as possible. The lower your radon, the lower your risk. Everyone’s risk tolerance is different. I would mitigate anything above 2.0. However, I’d probably change my view on that if my wife worked in the basement or if I had kids.
@AmericanRadonMitigation Thanks for replying. I'd like to get my radon level under 2, but contractors say they only guarantee to get it below 4, and I'm at 3.2. Do you see my dilemma here? I'm sure this service is going to be expensive. I am hesitant to pay for a service that isn't going to fix the problem. Out of curiosity, can you tell me the average price your company charges for a mitigation system install. I live in a 1.5 story house with a basement. It is about 75 years old.
@@MeR-md1jq I wouldn't get too hung up on the guarantee. Go with someone who knows how to do pressure field extension testing, has solid reviews, you feel comfortable with, and can clearly explain their approach. We don't discuss pricing on TH-cam anymore since some potential customers have expected the price to remain the same as a comment five years old. A company that offers a more in-depth approach should certainly charge more than one that's in and out in a few hours.
Have more questions? Connect with Jesse on Minnect: app.minnect.com/expert/JesseGreen
Jesse, thank you for this information, it's incredibly helpful. I'm in CT. If anyone in your service area sees your video's, I'd be shocked if you do not get their business in two seconds.
I'm glad you found it helpful! ❤️
Thank you this video. It really helped in providing some baseline information regarding radon mitigation
Glad it was helpful!
Jesse, thank you for all the videos you have provided. Could you do a video or series on pressure field calculations?
We have a video CE course coming in the spring or summer of 2023 that covers a new method we have started using. We cover our old way of doing PFE in this video th-cam.com/video/tM7sXZ0nLOk/w-d-xo.html
I sealed the gap between the slab and the foundation all around and that seemed to help. Next I want paint the slab with an epoxy coating.
It will be interesting to hear how this works for you. The EPA has done studies and found sealing alone is not an effective method to significantly reduce radon. Keep us posted!
Thank you, Jesse! I had an inspection on a house we are purchasing done by someone who turned out not to be licensed here in New York. And the result was very high (20!), so we will definitely be installing a mitigation system. My question now, though, is whether they should then have followed up by testing the soil or water. We paid $200 for the inspection.
You're welcome!
I’m sorry for your trouble. Here in Minnesota, we test the air for radon. However, radon in water is not an issue here. I'm not sure if that's the case where you live. You can always do a DIY radon test for the air or water.
Thanks for all the valuable info you provide through your channel! You've mentioned putting the fan in a garage attic. I live in a place that is often below 30* in the winter and has several weeks over 100* in the summer. Will the fan be able to function in an attic exposed to these sorts of temperatures? I especially worry about the potential for overheating during the summertime...
Yes, it should be fine if you insulate the piping in the garage and attic. Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/h0g_UY5-Zew/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HJnkFimDYxnAb4D_
@@AmericanRadonMitigation Great! Thanks so much!
You bet!
After having watched several of your videos, I am convinced that you are the only person I want to do my radon mitigation. Do you think you could come to southwest Pennsylvania? 😊
Awe, thank you. Unfortunately, a pretty hefty price tag would be needed to make it work.
Am in Boston MA I wished I have seen this video before
I hired a company without checking or asking the right questions with very negative results spent a fortune 😡
We are sorry to hear that, Amos. What happened?
I have a finish basement and my radon number are high. Does installing a mitigation system involve tearing up the floor?
Not usually.
If you put the fan in the attic, do you then run the pipe through the roof or is a ridge vent sufficient?
We exhaust 1 foot above the roof, as required by the mitigation standards. Venting toward a roof or ridge vent likely risks mold growth.
Thanks for the quick response! Since you go through the roof, do your installations include some sort of warranty on roof leaks?
@jpluddite, if we cause a problem, we make it right.
So, i have a quote from a local remediator in the Tampa area and the guy came by to look at the house and what he thinks he'd need to install before i watched this video. But after i received the quote i asked him about PFE testing and his reply was "No, that pressure field testing doesn't provide much info for slab on grade, no basement, typical Florida soils that we have in this area." Does this make sense to you or is it a red flag?
I don’t like guessing, so we do PFE testing on every project. Our specialty is getting radon as low as possible, and we rely on PFE data to achieve that. It’s relatively easy to get below 4.0 pCi/L, so if that’s their goal, that’s attainable without doing PFE. If your goal is as low as possible, I’d find someone who aligns with it.
@@AmericanRadonMitigation thanks for the quick reply. So, there wouldn't be any reason you can think of, that the environment in Florida with single-story slab homes without basements would mean PFE testing would be less useful?
No, and the radon standards require you to make at least one PFE measurement unless you use a loophole.
Radon Standard Diagnostic Investigation: standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2023/13/index.html
@@AmericanRadonMitigation thanks so much!
You bet!
All your videos seem to focus on houses that have a concrete slab over the ground. Do you work on houses that have a crawl space, and then a plastic barrier with a 4-in pipe connected to a radon fan providing the suction? We have a system like that but it doesn't seem to be working very well.
We don't do too many crawl space encapsulation jobs. Thankfully, most homes in Minnesota have basements with an occasional crawlspace under an addition.
You'll want to be sure that all the seams are taped and the edges of your vapor barrier are secured and sealed to your foundation walls. You want your vapor barrier to be as airtight as possible. Ensuring that it is will likely help you get the results you're looking for.
Wouldn't a home with a crawlspace be the easiest to mitigate? I'd think a couple fans blowing outward would be effective or am I missing something.
Where are you based out of? I live in Golden Valley and I live in a 1960s rambler with an unfinished basement and have elevated levels in my basement.
We serve the Twin Cities and the surrounding area of Minnesota.
What do you think about adding an HRV system instead of the system with a fan if you have a crawl space that isn't able to be sealed off properly? Do you have experience with HRV systems? Thanks!
Do you have a basement as well as a crawl space or just a crawl space?
@@AmericanRadonMitigation Yes, we have a basement too. The crawl space is about 12'X20' and is under an addition that was added to the home years ago.
@@catherineswenson2547 I'd suggest you start by treating the basement. You may not have to deal with the crawl space to reduce your radon levels.
@@AmericanRadonMitigation Thank you so much for your input! It was very kind of you to take the time to reply to me. Have a wonderful weekend!
@@catherineswenson2547 thank you, Catherine. You too!
Thanks for the video. I'm a bit confused about the radon levels after mitigation and what is considered safe. The WHO says levels should be under 2.7 pCi/L. The testing units say if you are between 2 and 4 pCi/L you should consider mitigation. My state's website says you should mitigate if you are over 4 pCi/L and the contractors I've looked at say they guarantee to get you under 4pCi/L. If under 2 pCi/L is considered "safe", what good is getting to just under 4 pCi/L going to do? Currently I'm at around 3.2 pCi/L and I'm not sure what I should do. I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks.
Since there’s no “safe” level of radon, a radioactive gas that may cause lung cancer, we feel like it’s best to get it as low as possible. The lower your radon, the lower your risk. Everyone’s risk tolerance is different. I would mitigate anything above 2.0. However, I’d probably change my view on that if my wife worked in the basement or if I had kids.
@AmericanRadonMitigation Thanks for replying. I'd like to get my radon level under 2, but contractors say they only guarantee to get it below 4, and I'm at 3.2. Do you see my dilemma here? I'm sure this service is going to be expensive. I am hesitant to pay for a service that isn't going to fix the problem.
Out of curiosity, can you tell me the average price your company charges for a mitigation system install. I live in a 1.5 story house with a basement. It is about 75 years old.
@@MeR-md1jq I wouldn't get too hung up on the guarantee. Go with someone who knows how to do pressure field extension testing, has solid reviews, you feel comfortable with, and can clearly explain their approach.
We don't discuss pricing on TH-cam anymore since some potential customers have expected the price to remain the same as a comment five years old. A company that offers a more in-depth approach should certainly charge more than one that's in and out in a few hours.
How much of a problem is radon. Should i have my home tested or can i just leave it?
I would recommend testing your home but to each their own.
@@AmericanRadonMitigation
Thank you!
You bet!
Can I just fly you to my house and hire you 🤪
Yes, for the right price. 😀