Andrew - a response! Bearing clearances aren't measured in "shade over" and "just about". I think I should have emphasized the fact I had measured all the clearances previously with my Mitatoyo bore gage and the crank with calibrated micrometer. That being the case I don’t think using the terms ‘a shade over’ or ‘just about’ is a cardinal sin. When clearances are measured properly those terms aren't required. Maybe not, but they do describe the situation. There is no way the naked eye can come up with .0027 with green plastigage. Don’t forget that statement was influenced by the fact I already knew what the bore gauge measured clearances were. As I stated in your last video , reading Plastigage is like reading tea leaves, very open to interpretation!!! And here is why I used the ‘shade over’ and ‘just about’ terms. A professional never uses a steel faced hammer to install & remove a main cap!!! Do you really think I used that polished face hammer hard enough to do any visible damage even when the cap is inspected with a 5 power mag glass! That is a job for a soft faced or deadblow hammer. Sure is - but that is what I would have used if it was required. Please give me some credit here and stop jumping to conclusions. A professional would also never pry off a man cap with a screwdriver!! Agreed - but the term ‘prying’ here is a gross overstatement of what I am doing. Gently lifting the cap would be totally accurate. Take a look at that ‘prying’ again. Does it really look like I am ‘prying’ with any measurable force? You can easily damage the two mating surfaces. And why would I not already know that????
A professional never uses a torque wrench as a breaker bar to loosen bolts!! There are occasions when I need to test bolt breakaway torque so no I don’t need to do as you suggest. If you are using a torque wrench that won’t deal with 45 lbs-ft in the reverse direction I suggest you get better equipment. I have 4 calibrated torque wrenches for 20 to 100 lbs-ft and an electronic gauge. All are regularly calibrated. The best thing to do is pop the reversing lever out with a pocket screwdriver and throw it away! I disagree. You should also lube the bottom side of the bolt head and washer, dry fasteners cause friction and erroneous torque readings. Again why would you think I did not know that, Don’t forget this has all been together as a trial build using my gauges. I mentioned using ARP lube in part 1 did I not? This is not a lesson on bolt installation. It’s a lesson on bearing clearances. Just as different thread lubricants require different torque specs. Again you presume I don’t appreciate that. I can almost guarantee I have done more bolt load tests than you and I am aware of just about every intricacy that is known to man. What about checking the clearances on 2,3&4 caps? Just because the front and rear caps fall into spec doesn't mean the others will. ASSUMING leads to disaster! I really am beginning to believe you have little or no respect for whatever building skills I may have and you are just looking to find faults no matter how trivial they are. Do you really believe I don’t check #2,3 and 4. I think you are ASSUMING way too much here. The crankshaft diameter spec on the rear main journal(sbc) is typically .0005 smaller than the other main journals to increase the clearance on #5 cap. Did I not say the clearance called for was bigger on the rear cap???? Was the block align/line honed? Come on, give me just a small break here - what do you think???? If so was a dummy oil pump torqued to the cap during the honing process? See above! The oil pump can cause distortion, anywhere from a few tenths to several tenths. I know that but have you ever checked to see how much difference it makes??? I don't care what people use for assembly lube as long they don't use Lubriplate 105 or a similar product, because it take alot of heat and time for it to break down and it plugs oil filters. No comment! Regardless of how many books you have written and how many seminars you have given your last 3 videos in my professional opinion have really diminished your credibility with professionals that know the difference between right and wrong. Can you give me some idea of what your opinion is worth?? You are not beyond reproach, Never even remotely believed I was! --- contrary to what you might think. Based on the fact that you have never met me and do not know me that is a massively incorrect statement. Before criticizing someone’s character it pays to get the facts right!!!!
Great work! You know exactly what you are doing and anyone with any good experience knows exactly how to interpet what you are presenting. I myself lift the bolts say?/ 2/3rds of the way out of the cap and squeeze together the top of them with the palm of your hand and gently wiggle while lifting to remove the cap! Hope this is ok'.
Thanks for the vid. I am trying to keep my $1300 car going. I think I may have a spun bearing and am about to measure everything with Plastigage. Helpful video for an amateur like me. Liked and subscribed…👍
Sounds like this Andrew is trying to teach David how to suck eggs... Clearly from some of his points he has no clue how many engine David has put together in his life time. Sure we may have a different way of doing things and there is nothing wrong with explaining the way we do it, but there is no need to be disrespectful in doing it. Do you seriously think that David is going to lever on main caps, and knock a cap out of round with a hammer, or not measure all the mains... Seriously this isn't his first rodeo, how about a bit more respect for a professional that has probably been doing this longer than you have been alive.
The guy building an engine or 2 in his life will greatly benefit from these videos. Nothing shown here will hurt anything on a stock to modest hot rod engine.
I always learn something from you. Filing down the raised metal around the stamped characters on the back of the bearing and the magnet on the file. Excellent tips!
I don't know anything about David as a man. I misssed the ending to part 1 because I try to maximize the time I have and I have a tendency to cut off endings/credits. For some reason I watched part 2 to the end and noticed the attractive young woman and thought "oh, must be one of his students" and then was shocked. This, even though I am not a sensitive man. I've had a couple of recent losses. But anyway, I shed a tear for this woman I don't know. Came back to write this later and am crying right now. I guess I feel a connection to David as one of his books had a profound influence on my life. It was the first book I read about engine building as a teen in the 80s.
You wouldn't be alone there Roy, I think a lot of us that were around the engine building scene before the internet bought books from David, Smokey, Bill etc. They were legends when we were still kids.
I bought one of your books when I was 16(now 46), and have always enjoyed learning from you! After doing hundreds of engines I still learned from this video. It’s good to know torquing the mains at forty ft.-lbs. will clamp the mains for bearing clearance checking. Thanks so much!
Wow David!! Some of these people really have it in for you! ! I don’t think they have been watching. You said from the beginning home guy 1 or 2 motor. NOT A PRO !!! I thank you David for your help. Any helpful points is a good thing.
David its been so long. Last time I saw you was race week in Charlotte. You allowed my old dog to stay with you for the weekend, so Dusty and I could go to the race. I hope you are well.
,,,,at 71 , I've been studying engines since 1965,,,,,,,,,I consider my collection of books and journals priceless......This video presentation is far superior to a book....I will watch it again and jot down the procedures in a notebook.........I've learned new ways to prepare , check, and assemble............thanks David..............
ive been hooked n bought your small block chevy info since i was 32 years old. engine nbuilding beame a fixation. 1990 June in Norfolk Virginia, Dale Earnhardt was brought over to my apartment where i had a fully rebuilt 1971 Lt1. We got to talking bout engine math, rod/ stroke ratios, deck heights, compromises with SBC 383 strokers with 6" rods vs Sbf 393 with longer rods, better rod to stroke ratio, higher compression height pistons and oil ring not intersecting piston pi area. He gave me 6 pit cards, offered to sign them, offered me a job and what today would be $40k in 5 bowtie blocks, 5 crower or cola 4340 non twist forgings, his words, 5 sets of oliver or crower connecting rods, his words, 5 sets of aires or J&E pistons, his words, 5 sets of rings, 5 sets of rod n main bearings and , 5 complete Crower Imperial camshaft kits. Do you know what that is Robert? he asked me. Yes sir, the imperial uses needle bearing cam bearings which is said to provide 40 additional horsepower over the same cam using bushing bearings due to the lack of frictional encountered with the bushing bearing. Thats right, he said. Do you know how much they cost? Yes sir i said. They're $1360 right now in PAW catalog. (out of business now ) He said thats right. There you go. Thats $6800 right there. You can build yourself 5 bullet proof bottom ends n worry bout induction later. When he left he held out his hand to shake mine and said" 5th time I've offered you Robert, do you want the job or not"? I refused n he left giving me good directions to come get those offered parts. Theres more to the story but too much to text. Im 70 this year in November and its one of my biggest life's regrets. i could have been happy n later opened an engine shop. Honesty and a good product is a recipe for success and thats what i strive to deliver in all task i undertake. Never bought a playboy or any other in my life, but breathed Car craft, chevy high performance, fast fords n mustangs, hot rod etc. Never was prejudiced either, they all run, all makes.
Thank You David!!! Please do not let any internet troll discourage you sharing all you have learned over your 50+ years in the industry. You are a mechanical genius and have a wonderful aptitude for gaining horsepower and sharing information. Keep up the great work and ignore the peanut gallery!!!!
I was taught that Plastigage is OK for a shop that does not specialize in machining, such as a small garage operation doing an in frame rebuild. Bill Swarz owned a machine shop in Baltimore, MD (Precision Automotive). He explained that the only true way is to measure clearance is to measure the journals and the bearing with a micrometer and a dial bore gauge set properly. I am thinking he learned this from Sunnen reps, not sure. A properly set dial indicator for bores would be a good choice. He said Plastigage can give false readings and is not accurate enough for a good machine shop to be using. It only measure one "side" and not the complete bore dimension. Bill was also the first one in Baltimore and surrounding areas to have a Sunnen CK 10 when they came out. Your thoughts?
I loved DVs responses to all the accusations by the one who shall remain nameless. Professional, respectful and with explanations. More than "nameless" deserved.
I've bought about four of your books through the years and read countless magazine articles. I appreciate a builder of your caliber to take his time to make videos like this and it's obvious you love your craft so thank you for all of the years of advice. I'm 57 and my first book you wrote was purchased when we both had dark hair. LOL Your advice on LSA was also taken into consideration when I selected my cam.
I really appreciate you showing us these very important assembly procedures. I’ve built a few good engines, but your videos have shown me where I could build great engines! I really appreciate this video series! Thanks again!
I have read all your books. Still learning and grasping after 55 years of hot rodding. Excellent information...it's always in the details. Thanks again, David.
Once again great information before I do this tomorrow with my motor in the van, 1969 G-10 Chevy. It is a 350, 9-1, 388 heads with 2.02 and 1.68 valves, a comp cam that is carb for California, DLC lifters, true roller timing chain, high volumn and pressure Mellings pump, windage tray, electronic distributor with the monster Accell yellow coil, an old school Weiand dual plane intake with a quadrajet. When it runs properly it is a sleeper. The bad cams that are out now put so much metal through the motor it destroyed new bearings and almost took the crank. Hours with sandpaper to 1000 grit has saved the crank while in the car. I watch lots of You Tubes on building motors from the best in the business like you. They have saved me from many potential nightmares. Thanks.
Huge fan of the Wizard! Watching the video at the torque part 10:46 he made a sound I have done a couple times, while straining on a difficult bolt. Hopefully he checked himself, lol. I hope he never retires, I love watching him! OH! one thing I want to mention, I watched the video about the Vortec Heads and it was VERY DIFFICULT to hear. It was the Microphone being too far and the combination of too much music, but the Instruction was superb as usual. Maybe just do some adjustments to the audio so its clear. Other than that, thats all I can offer in my "constructive criticism" you asked for in your video. Hope to see many more videos! Hopefully MORE developments in the "VORTEC" heads??? AMAZING heads, but you know how we are lol, we want to squeeze every bit of power, even if there is NOTHING more we can do. I would like to see more developments in the combustion Chamber of the Vortec heads and what we can do to the square "SPARK PLUG BOSS" that looks to serve no useful purpose other than turbulence and restrict flow. Any thoughts?
Thank you DV for the mini-series on lower end assembly. I am rebuilding a Saab 2.0L B205 and have been using your tips. Had an issue using the 40ft-lb recommendation with plasti-gage (red), it was showing about 0.004"-0.005" clearance, not enough compression. Repeating using full torque and was able to get around 0.0025" (the target). Some online forums mentioned similar issues and recommended full torque or the results were similar. I am guessing the 40lb rule is somewhat engine type specific. I will try out the 40ft-lb tip on my next SBC or SBF project. Now the question of why it didn't work as expected.. my guess would be the bearings are simply different width and thickness requiring more or less pressure. I am sure this technique would work with almost all engines, but some trial and error would be required to figure out what the acceptable level of torque is required. Interesting results, thought I would share. Just also thought thread pitch and diameter variance between the engines might influence this as well..
Dale Earnhardt had to be one special individual to offer a stranger a job and $40k in parts. I gave away 3 of the pit card and had 3 left but couldnt find them when Dale jr. began his career. Always wanted to frame one with nice cherry frame, 2 different colored non scid paper boarders, and write the whole story on a sheet of paper attached to the back of it. And ask a question of him as all children don't know every facet of their fathers life. And that question would be,. I know he's your father, but, did you know the man who would offer a stranger a job and $40k in parts, and try to give good directions to that stranger so he could come get those parts, even though said stranger, me refused the offer" Someone in the Earnhardt camp had to have heard of the idiot, me, Robert Ott, that refused an opportunity such as that. While we stood in my front yard talking, a guy who had drove the Earnhardt tractor n trailer up there, stood looking at Mr. Earnhardt's back, n if his looks could have killed, Mr. Earnhardt, and probably me also, would have fell dead. I always imagined him thinking" I work for you and you never offered me anything like that"
Hi David, as far as the likes/dislikes situation, any likes/dislikes or comments whether positive or negative count toward your TH-cam algorithm and will gain you impressions and thus potential views.. So don't let the dislikes worry you, I get a few too.. but I view them in a positive light. Thanks for the content. Blake.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I would appreciate it if you would make a video about the proper way to use a Torque wrench...! Is there a simple way to check calibration of said Torque wrench?
In regards to the rear main cap, should consideration be given to the oil pump distorting the cap, during this bearing clearance check? Or is there not enough distortion given, to be a problem.
I think all i woulda done different, is shown the meadurement process with a mic first, then shown just how close the plastigauge is. Which is obviously just fine for a hot street setup. Obviously all out endurance motors should be done with mics.
Thanks DV! I work on my VW, I have seen builders give Plastigage a bad rap. Something about equalizing the measurements around circumference of the journal. Dunno, for me it would seem to be good enough for my bus. I'll have to have a look to see if you have anything on air cooled motors.
,,,,,,,,To check for equal measurements around the journal bore ; that is done with a dial bore gauge....No doubt David had done that prior to this plastigage check........
Ps can't wait to buy all of his books have none if I can afford them I will buy ,I do check all availability on library love his books and his teachings bunk,auto and small eng.saline Louisiana
Hey DV - can you comment on thrust bearing oiling modifications? What if you are running a stick shift car that sees a lot of hot idling with the clutch disengaged in traffic?
Great question,,,,,I hope David has time to respond.......................I use a dial bore gauge to check the concentricity within the journals.......by using a 12 inch Vernier caliper at the 2 outer main saddles, and measuring up to the deck surface on both sides of a V8 block [measuring the 4 corners ] will show that the block is square or not.........
Seen your comment on a couple of videos; not sure precisely what you’re getting at. I am a machinist. I measure stuff and hand fit parts sometimes hundreds of times a day. It is more important that each part be torqued/polished/fit in EXACTLY the same way each time than worrying about the final resulting measurement. He demonstrated in the part one video that torquing the caps incrementally (30-40-75) resulted in ≈.0001” variation in the bore. That is beyond the required precision for an engine. Consider also that a crankshaft spinning 6000 rpm is doing everything it can to turn that round bore into an egg shape to the tune of 1 or 2 thou, an order of magnitude greater than any measured deviation in bearing crush due to torquing your main caps to 40 instead of 75 when you’re plastigaging your block.
I always learn something from your videos. I've used silicone on the rear cap to prevent leaks. Is this wrong or is there a better way to ensure no leak on the rear seal. Would the silicone affect the clearance? Keep these videos coming.
Thank you for doing this vid for us. I had been working on a 390 FE build but lately life had thrown a few hurdles at me & I had lost sight of my build. Seeing this brings the interest back in me to go back out & finish it up. I wasn't happy with my bearing clearances. My rods were resized & I checked them & balanced them myself. My crank was 10 under on mains & 30 under on rods & again I checked it myself. All looked very good. But when I checked my bearing clearances I got .0025 on mains & .0015 to .0017 on rods. I was looking for .003 on mains & .002 to .0025 on rods. I can live with the mains but do you believe the rods are to tight?
Im new to the channel and I absolutely love all the material. I’m an amateur and learning a lot from you. Quick question please! Would I use a 240 or 400 grit ball hone to just remove the cylinder glazing? The cylinders are in otherwise good condition.
Hi David, here is my negative criticism.. Opening title credits Marvin Burke's name appears before yours, I don't think that is right since you are doing all the presenting. You are the legend we have all come to see. I think it is only fitting that you should have top billing. It's a small thing but it annoys me. you have put the hard work in over the decades, you deserve to be listed first.
Well thanks for your very complimentary comment but I have to say Marvin does so much of the background work that without his aid there might not be any videos.
@@marvingvx1 true, and I thought about that, but you could turn on the camera stand there and do a less impressive video, upload it and still be putting out interesting content people would watch. The same can't be said the other way around. In no industry does the star of the show ever get mentioned after the editor. Normally editorial is put up in the end credits. I am not trying to take anything away from Marvin's efforts. or down play it in any way, but typically in a title credits only people appearing in the video are mentioned. Nothing stops you putting up a special mention in the end credits, something like "Many thanks to Marvin, whom without this video production wouldn't be possible". Or "Video editing and production by Marvin" I don't know your specific relationship, or the depth of the assistance. But for you to come second in your own video doesn't seem right to me when it is your decades of experience I am coming to see. I have never heard of Marvin, I wouldn't know him from a bar a soap, I have owned one of your books since the 80's. You and your experience are what draws me to the channel.
The thing i dont like about plastigauge is for instance u check the front main brg clearance with it and the main journal next to it is larger in diametre it could make your front crank journal sit up higher Is this why u dont have the shell in the other centre main brgs? So im very interested to c part 3 because im assuming u do something similar with the centre 3 brgs and omit the end main shells when u check them as i am building a 4 cyl motorcycle engine also with 5 main brgs i am very interested in this my book says to use plastigauge all the main journals r to be checked at the same time imo opening up for potential for error! Now i went and bought the bore gauge with digital read out and ill measure each brg bore and brg shell and crank journal and do calcs to get it as close as i can to perhaps the middle of the spec or a bit toward the lower side What is your expert opinion on coated brgs thank u for your videos
Not sure I follow your point. You are removing the plastigauge immediately after measuring it and wiping the surface off to make sure there is no residue. There is nothing wrong with plastiguage as a tool I have used it many times myself, but it is no substitute for proper tools, but it does a good enough job that that I am willing to trust it. It is pretty foolproof. I don't know if you noticed in the video David took extreme care not to distort the platigauge after he removed the bolts. There is a risk of a false reading if you don't take the care he did.
@@pete540Z will definitely be checked but not sure if it will be shown, David demonstrated the technique twice, don't need to see them all. Important take away was a bit more clearance on the rear bearing.
One thing I like to do is always use a bare skin finger to give one final wipe over mating surfaces and bearings...clean hands of course. Gets all the lint and fine dirt
Damn.. Jacque was only 19 years old.. poor poor thing, I hate to see a young person pass away, especially someone like her that you KNOW would have gone far in life, I wonder what happened to her, but regardless it's sad.. I wonder if she's David's daughter or niece or granddaughter or what. Either way I feel so bad for him and the family. Rest in paradise Miss Jacque Vizard..
The proper way to measure bearing clearance would be to micrometre the crank journal and then inside micrometre the bearings torqued into the saddle . Plastic gauge is not accurate
Some people don't know that plastigauge goes "stale". If it sits around too long the string gets hard, and isn't as malleable as its designed to be. So it can give you erroneous readings.
Bearing clearances aren't measured in "shade over" and "just about". When clearances are measured properly those terms aren't required. There is no way the naked eye can come up with .0027 with green plastigage. As I stated in your last video , reading Plastigage is like reading tea leaves, very open to interpretation!!! A professional never uses a steel faced hammer to install & remove a main cap!!! That is a job for a soft faced or deadblow hammer. A professional would also never pry off a man cap with a screwdriver!! You can easily damage the two mating surfaces. A professional never uses a torque wrench as a breaker bar to loosen bolts!! The best thing to do is pop the reversing lever out with a pocket screwdriver and throw it away! You should also lube the bottom side of the bolt head and washer, dry fasteners cause friction and erroneous torque readings. Just as different thread lubricants require different torque specs. What about checking the clearances on 2,3&4 caps? Just because the front and rear caps fall into spec doesn't mean the others will. ASSUMING leads to disaster! The crankshaft diameter spec on the rear main journal(sbc) is typically .0005 smaller than the other main journals to increase the clearance on #5 cap. Was the block align/line honed? If so was a dummy oil pump torqued to the cap during the honing process? The oil pump can cause distortion , anywhere from a few tenths to several tenths. I don't care what people use for assembly lube as long they don't use Lubriplate 105 or a similar product, because it take alot of heat and time for it to break down and it plugs oil filters. Regardless of how many books you have written and how many seminars you have given your last 3 videos in my professional opinion have really diminished your credibility with professionals that know the difference between right and wrong. You are not beyond reproach, contrary to what you might think.
Time to pull finger out and share your EXPERT knowledge for free like this man is & make some videos of your own, don't be tight arse and protect your EXPERTISE. I'll subscribe to your account so I can watch them in future.
Andrew, I get your points, but I think you need to see it in the context of the target audiance and application. Yes there were things I wouldn't do, but overall folk building an engine to this level are far better off deploying them repeatabily, competently than not at all, and thus get better results. The hammer had a polished face, so it would be debris free, a softface if not kept clean can also easily leave debris. I wouldn't file anywhere near my block open or otherwise etc etc, but this is to get it all on the video, I'm sure David wouldn't either, and have to understand the context. Clearance is an interesting point, we may measure it aerospace accuracy, but how do we actually know what we need.. few establishments can measure the hydrostatic profile in the oil film and determine whether it has has the right profile or not, as the clearance is actually second order to what is in fact the important factor. Further, it will be dependent on the oil chemistry, temperatures, and be specific to that the materials and finishes. So how far down to fundamentals do you want to go before we can say we "know"? In most peoples cases, than professional teams where it is their business and reputation, and winning is the only way to stay in business, suitable and sufficient rules, as they will never be able to actually "know" with the appropriate fundamental data of what actually needs to be measured... how many people even do oil samples, and get those analysed, or even know what to do with the results... I get your point, but there is another side too. Have a great weekend.
Firstly, if you watch the 2 videos again I becomes obvious that the idea of using Plastic Gauge is a cheap and effective way of DOUBLE CHECKING clearances at time of final installation. He had pointed out in the first video that not everyone can afford the expensive measuring gauges that machine shops use and the method shown is a final, but not the only check, used in the build. There also was no implication to NOT check the other bearing caps but he pointed out that the REAR cap bearing HAD a slightly larger clearance by showing using the RED gauge material instead of the GREEN as used on the front. As for his terminology of a "SHADE OVER" must be taken in context of what he is actually saying, i.e. meaning 1-2 TENTHS of a Thousands of an inch. Two different engine builders may measure the same bearing clearances using the same professional tools and get a different result within a couple of a tenths of a thou, just because of their 'feel' when measuring. I myself have during my professional career used BOTH measuring tools and plasticguage together and never had a clearance problem during assembly. Also if an engine is still in vehicle, plasticgauge is an effective tool for checking clearance problems and diagnosing bigger faults. Finally, nowhere in the videos is it suggested that this how clearance checking MUST be done BUT is one of many ways it CAN be done. It obviously works for some engine builders and not others. Its up to the assembler themselves to decide which way they do it. Do it whatever way you are confident with. 'There is more than one way to skin a cat' as long as the same result is gained for the end user.
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Andrew - a response!
Bearing clearances aren't measured in "shade over" and "just about".
I think I should have emphasized the fact I had measured all the clearances previously with my Mitatoyo bore gage and the crank with calibrated micrometer. That being the case I don’t think using the terms ‘a shade over’ or ‘just about’ is a cardinal sin.
When clearances are measured properly those terms aren't required.
Maybe not, but they do describe the situation.
There is no way the naked eye can come up with .0027 with green plastigage.
Don’t forget that statement was influenced by the fact I already knew what the bore gauge measured clearances were.
As I stated in your last video , reading Plastigage is like reading tea leaves, very open to interpretation!!!
And here is why I used the ‘shade over’ and ‘just about’ terms.
A professional never uses a steel faced hammer to install & remove a main cap!!!
Do you really think I used that polished face hammer hard enough to do any visible damage even when the cap is inspected with a 5 power mag glass!
That is a job for a soft faced or deadblow hammer.
Sure is - but that is what I would have used if it was required. Please give me some credit here and stop jumping to conclusions.
A professional would also never pry off a man cap with a screwdriver!!
Agreed - but the term ‘prying’ here is a gross overstatement of what I am doing. Gently lifting the cap would be totally accurate. Take a look at that ‘prying’ again. Does it really look like I am ‘prying’ with any measurable force?
You can easily damage the two mating surfaces.
And why would I not already know that????
A professional never uses a torque wrench as a breaker bar to loosen bolts!!
There are occasions when I need to test bolt breakaway torque so no I don’t need to do as you suggest.
If you are using a torque wrench that won’t deal with 45 lbs-ft in the reverse direction I suggest you get better equipment. I have 4 calibrated torque wrenches for 20 to 100 lbs-ft and an electronic gauge. All are regularly calibrated.
The best thing to do is pop the reversing lever out with a pocket screwdriver and throw it away!
I disagree.
You should also lube the bottom side of the bolt head and washer, dry fasteners cause friction and erroneous torque readings.
Again why would you think I did not know that, Don’t forget this has all been together as a trial build using my gauges. I mentioned using ARP lube in part 1 did I not? This is not a lesson on bolt installation. It’s a lesson on bearing clearances.
Just as different thread lubricants require different torque specs.
Again you presume I don’t appreciate that. I can almost guarantee I have done more bolt load tests than you and I am aware of just about every intricacy that is known to man.
What about checking the clearances on 2,3&4 caps? Just because the front and rear caps fall into spec doesn't mean the others will. ASSUMING leads to disaster!
I really am beginning to believe you have little or no respect for whatever building skills I may have and you are just looking to find faults no matter how trivial they are. Do you really believe I don’t check #2,3 and 4. I think you are ASSUMING way too much here.
The crankshaft diameter spec on the rear main journal(sbc) is typically .0005 smaller than the other main journals to increase the clearance on #5 cap.
Did I not say the clearance called for was bigger on the rear cap????
Was the block align/line honed?
Come on, give me just a small break here - what do you think????
If so was a dummy oil pump torqued to the cap during the honing process?
See above!
The oil pump can cause distortion, anywhere from a few tenths to several tenths.
I know that but have you ever checked to see how much difference it makes???
I don't care what people use for assembly lube as long they don't use Lubriplate 105 or a similar product, because it take alot of heat and time for it to break down and it plugs oil filters.
No comment!
Regardless of how many books you have written and how many seminars you have given your last 3 videos in my professional opinion have really diminished your credibility with professionals that know the difference between right and wrong.
Can you give me some idea of what your opinion is worth??
You are not beyond reproach,
Never even remotely believed I was!
--- contrary to what you might think.
Based on the fact that you have never met me and do not know me that is a massively incorrect statement.
Before criticizing someone’s character it pays to get the facts right!!!!
Great work! You know exactly what you are doing and anyone with any good experience knows exactly how to interpet what you are presenting. I myself lift the bolts say?/ 2/3rds of the way out of the cap and squeeze together the top of them with the palm of your hand and gently wiggle while lifting to remove the cap! Hope this is ok'.
Thanks for the vid. I am trying to keep my $1300 car going. I think I may have a spun bearing and am about to measure everything with Plastigage. Helpful video for an amateur like me. Liked and subscribed…👍
Sounds like this Andrew is trying to teach David how to suck eggs... Clearly from some of his points he has no clue how many engine David has put together in his life time. Sure we may have a different way of doing things and there is nothing wrong with explaining the way we do it, but there is no need to be disrespectful in doing it. Do you seriously think that David is going to lever on main caps, and knock a cap out of round with a hammer, or not measure all the mains... Seriously this isn't his first rodeo, how about a bit more respect for a professional that has probably been doing this longer than you have been alive.
The guy building an engine or 2 in his life will greatly benefit from these videos. Nothing shown here will hurt anything on a stock to modest hot rod engine.
I have to say I agreed with most of Andrew's(?) comments, but I think his comments could have been more tactful & respectful.
Magnet on file…got it!
I always learn something from you. Filing down the raised metal around the stamped characters on the back of the bearing and the magnet on the file. Excellent tips!
I don't know anything about David as a man. I misssed the ending to part 1 because I try to maximize the time I have and I have a tendency to cut off endings/credits. For some reason I watched part 2 to the end and noticed the attractive young woman and thought "oh, must be one of his students" and then was shocked. This, even though I am not a sensitive man. I've had a couple of recent losses. But anyway, I shed a tear for this woman I don't know. Came back to write this later and am crying right now. I guess I feel a connection to David as one of his books had a profound influence on my life. It was the first book I read about engine building as a teen in the 80s.
You wouldn't be alone there Roy, I think a lot of us that were around the engine building scene before the internet bought books from David, Smokey, Bill etc. They were legends when we were still kids.
I bought one of your books when I was 16(now 46), and have always enjoyed learning from you! After doing hundreds of engines I still learned from this video. It’s good to know torquing the mains at forty ft.-lbs. will clamp the mains for bearing clearance checking. Thanks so much!
Wow David!! Some of these people really have it in for you! ! I don’t think they have been watching. You said from the beginning home guy 1 or 2 motor. NOT A PRO !!! I thank you David for your help. Any helpful points is a good thing.
Thanks for sharing......really enjoy your info. ......and the Fart when you torqued that main cap to 75!!! You played it off smooth as silk.
Fart????????????
That's what I heard too, haha
@@marvingvx1 they must be mistaken, that was the sound of perfection. Lol
David its been so long.
Last time I saw you was race week in Charlotte.
You allowed my old dog to stay with you for the weekend, so Dusty and I could go to the race.
I hope you are well.
Nate, she was a wonderful dog. It was our pleasure.
DV
,,,,at 71 , I've been studying engines since 1965,,,,,,,,,I consider my collection of books and journals priceless......This video presentation is far superior to a book....I will watch it again and jot down the procedures in a notebook.........I've learned new ways to prepare , check, and assemble............thanks David..............
ive been hooked n bought your small block chevy info since i was 32 years old. engine nbuilding beame a fixation. 1990 June in Norfolk Virginia, Dale Earnhardt was brought over to my apartment where i had a fully rebuilt 1971 Lt1. We got to talking bout engine math, rod/ stroke ratios, deck heights, compromises with SBC 383 strokers with 6" rods vs Sbf 393 with longer rods, better rod to stroke ratio, higher compression height pistons and oil ring not intersecting piston pi area. He gave me 6 pit cards, offered to sign them, offered me a job and what today would be $40k in 5 bowtie blocks, 5 crower or cola 4340 non twist forgings, his words, 5 sets of oliver or crower connecting rods, his words, 5 sets of aires or J&E pistons, his words, 5 sets of rings, 5 sets of rod n main bearings and , 5 complete Crower Imperial camshaft kits. Do you know what that is Robert? he asked me. Yes sir, the imperial uses needle bearing cam bearings which is said to provide 40 additional horsepower over the same cam using bushing bearings due to the lack of frictional encountered with the bushing bearing. Thats right, he said. Do you know how much they cost? Yes sir i said. They're $1360 right now in PAW catalog. (out of business now ) He said thats right. There you go. Thats $6800 right there. You can build yourself 5 bullet proof bottom ends n worry bout induction later. When he left he held out his hand to shake mine and said" 5th time I've offered you Robert, do you want the job or not"? I refused n he left giving me good directions to come get those offered parts. Theres more to the story but too much to text. Im 70 this year in November and its one of my biggest life's regrets. i could have been happy n later opened an engine shop. Honesty and a good product is a recipe for success and thats what i strive to deliver in all task i undertake. Never bought a playboy or any other in my life, but breathed Car craft, chevy high performance, fast fords n mustangs, hot rod etc. Never was prejudiced either, they all run, all makes.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,wow.......................................
Thank you so much for freely shareing all this great info with us!
Thank You David!!! Please do not let any internet troll discourage you sharing all you have learned over your 50+ years in the industry. You are a mechanical genius and have a wonderful aptitude for gaining horsepower and sharing information. Keep up the great work and ignore the peanut gallery!!!!
I was taught that Plastigage is OK for a shop that does not specialize in machining, such as a small garage operation doing an in frame rebuild. Bill Swarz owned a machine shop in Baltimore, MD (Precision Automotive). He explained that the only true way is to measure clearance is to measure the journals and the bearing with a micrometer and a dial bore gauge set properly. I am thinking he learned this from Sunnen reps, not sure. A properly set dial indicator for bores would be a good choice. He said Plastigage can give false readings and is not accurate enough for a good machine shop to be using. It only measure one "side" and not the complete bore dimension. Bill was also the first one in Baltimore and surrounding areas to have a Sunnen CK 10 when they came out. Your thoughts?
I loved DVs responses to all the accusations by the one who shall remain nameless. Professional, respectful and with explanations. More than "nameless" deserved.
I've bought about four of your books through the years and read countless magazine articles. I appreciate a builder of your caliber to take his time to make videos like this and it's obvious you love your craft so thank you for all of the years of advice. I'm 57 and my first book you wrote was purchased when we both had dark hair. LOL Your advice on LSA was also taken into consideration when I selected my cam.
I really appreciate you showing us these very important assembly procedures. I’ve built a few good engines, but your videos have shown me where I could build great engines! I really appreciate this video series! Thanks again!
I have read all your books. Still learning and grasping after 55 years of hot rodding. Excellent information...it's always in the details. Thanks again, David.
You are doing the best videos to help the little guy I have ever found .
looking forward to the next one. Thank you David.
Excellent advice for home engine builders David .... Thank You 👍
Great Video... See ya soon David!
Andy
Huge fan of David's work since Mini Days 🤩 🙏
Good job David you're knowledge experience and expertise is much appreciated !!!
Once again great information before I do this tomorrow with my motor in the van, 1969 G-10 Chevy. It is a 350, 9-1, 388 heads with 2.02 and 1.68 valves, a comp cam that is carb for California, DLC lifters, true roller timing chain, high volumn and pressure Mellings pump, windage tray, electronic distributor with the monster Accell yellow coil, an old school Weiand dual plane intake with a quadrajet. When it runs properly it is a sleeper. The bad cams that are out now put so much metal through the motor it destroyed new bearings and almost took the crank. Hours with sandpaper to 1000 grit has saved the crank while in the car. I watch lots of You Tubes on building motors from the best in the business like you. They have saved me from many potential nightmares. Thanks.
Huge fan of the Wizard! Watching the video at the torque part 10:46 he made a sound I have done a couple times, while straining on a difficult bolt. Hopefully he checked himself, lol. I hope he never retires, I love watching him! OH! one thing I want to mention, I watched the video about the Vortec Heads and it was VERY DIFFICULT to hear. It was the Microphone being too far and the combination of too much music, but the Instruction was superb as usual. Maybe just do some adjustments to the audio so its clear. Other than that, thats all I can offer in my "constructive criticism" you asked for in your video. Hope to see many more videos! Hopefully MORE developments in the "VORTEC" heads??? AMAZING heads, but you know how we are lol, we want to squeeze every bit of power, even if there is NOTHING more we can do. I would like to see more developments in the combustion Chamber of the Vortec heads and what we can do to the square "SPARK PLUG BOSS" that looks to serve no useful purpose other than turbulence and restrict flow. Any thoughts?
Thanks even though I've built many stock and street performance engines I still picked up some great tips from your expertise Joe clay
Looking forward to pt.3 👍 👍 👍
Thank you DV for the mini-series on lower end assembly. I am rebuilding a Saab 2.0L B205 and have been using your tips. Had an issue using the 40ft-lb recommendation with plasti-gage (red), it was showing about 0.004"-0.005" clearance, not enough compression. Repeating using full torque and was able to get around 0.0025" (the target). Some online forums mentioned similar issues and recommended full torque or the results were similar. I am guessing the 40lb rule is somewhat engine type specific. I will try out the 40ft-lb tip on my next SBC or SBF project. Now the question of why it didn't work as expected.. my guess would be the bearings are simply different width and thickness requiring more or less pressure. I am sure this technique would work with almost all engines, but some trial and error would be required to figure out what the acceptable level of torque is required. Interesting results, thought I would share. Just also thought thread pitch and diameter variance between the engines might influence this as well..
Dale Earnhardt had to be one special individual to offer a stranger a job and $40k in parts. I gave away 3 of the pit card and had 3 left but couldnt find them when Dale jr. began his career. Always wanted to frame one with nice cherry frame, 2 different colored non scid paper boarders, and write the whole story on a sheet of paper attached to the back of it. And ask a question of him as all children don't know every facet of their fathers life. And that question would be,. I know he's your father, but, did you know the man who would offer a stranger a job and $40k in parts, and try to give good directions to that stranger so he could come get those parts, even though said stranger, me refused the offer"
Someone in the Earnhardt camp had to have heard of the idiot, me, Robert Ott, that refused an opportunity such as that. While we stood in my front yard talking, a guy who had drove the Earnhardt tractor n trailer up there, stood looking at Mr. Earnhardt's back, n if his looks could have killed, Mr. Earnhardt, and probably me also, would have fell dead. I always imagined him thinking" I work for you and you never offered me anything like that"
Thanks David! Looking forward to part 3.
Hi David, as far as the likes/dislikes situation, any likes/dislikes or comments whether positive or negative count toward your TH-cam algorithm and will gain you impressions and thus potential views.. So don't let the dislikes worry you, I get a few too.. but I view them in a positive light.
Thanks for the content.
Blake.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I would appreciate it if you would make a video about the proper way to use a Torque wrench...! Is there a simple way to check calibration of said Torque wrench?
Informative and stimulating.
As usual David's work is top notch.
I taught david everything he knows btw.
I love this video series and your books. I'd love to come to one of your workshops and get more tips and tricks from a master builder.
Thanks for the information please keep small block Chevy videos coming.
He has a flow bench behind him. My kind of guy. Can't wait till I get/build some more equipment.
In regards to the rear main cap, should consideration be given to the oil pump distorting the cap, during this bearing clearance check? Or is there not enough distortion given, to be a problem.
Details make the difference between a good engine and a great engine
Gota try that lube thanks for the tip.
I think all i woulda done different, is shown the meadurement process with a mic first, then shown just how close the plastigauge is. Which is obviously just fine for a hot street setup. Obviously all out endurance motors should be done with mics.
On the episodes about bearing clearances.what size is the main journal.
I'm asking about the small block Chevy bearing clearances
Thanks DV!
I work on my VW, I have seen builders give Plastigage a bad rap. Something about equalizing the measurements around circumference of the journal.
Dunno, for me it would seem to be good enough for my bus. I'll have to have a look to see if you have anything on air cooled motors.
,,,,,,,,To check for equal measurements around the journal bore ; that is done with a dial bore gauge....No doubt David had done that prior to this plastigage check........
I couldn't hit like fast enough!
Ps can't wait to buy all of his books have none if I can afford them I will buy ,I do check all availability on library love his books and his teachings bunk,auto and small eng.saline Louisiana
Hey DV - can you comment on thrust bearing oiling modifications? What if you are running a stick shift car that sees a lot of hot idling with the clutch disengaged in traffic?
Great vids series!
Great video again. With great knowledge is being shared. Awesome job. Maybe some day touch a little on the ford cleveland.
Thank you for your insitghts and video 🙂❤👍
Mr. David, I have a question about Plasticgauge. Can it be used on both bearings of a journal, so you can see if the crank and block is square?
Great question,,,,,I hope David has time to respond.......................I use a dial bore gauge to check the concentricity within the journals.......by using a 12 inch Vernier caliper at the 2 outer main saddles, and measuring up to the deck surface on both sides of a V8 block [measuring the 4 corners ] will show that the block is square or not.........
When you use a reduced torque setting to measure bearing clearances, how does bearing crush come into play?
Seen your comment on a couple of videos; not sure precisely what you’re getting at. I am a machinist. I measure stuff and hand fit parts sometimes hundreds of times a day. It is more important that each part be torqued/polished/fit in EXACTLY the same way each time than worrying about the final resulting measurement. He demonstrated in the part one video that torquing the caps incrementally (30-40-75) resulted in ≈.0001” variation in the bore. That is beyond the required precision for an engine. Consider also that a crankshaft spinning 6000 rpm is doing everything it can to turn that round bore into an egg shape to the tune of 1 or 2 thou, an order of magnitude greater than any measured deviation in bearing crush due to torquing your main caps to 40 instead of 75 when you’re plastigaging your block.
@8:24 I thought he was going to say... I USE........... Dish soap haha 😆
I always learn something from your videos. I've used silicone on the rear cap to prevent leaks. Is this wrong or is there a better way to ensure no leak on the rear seal. Would the silicone affect the clearance? Keep these videos coming.
Excellent as always
In your oil concoction, what brand and weight of “good oil” do you use?
Thanks
I learned something new , thank you .
What is the reason for all the shamforing?
Excellent...as usual..
Thank you for doing this vid for us. I had been working on a 390 FE build but lately life had thrown a few hurdles at me & I had lost sight of my build. Seeing this brings the interest back in me to go back out & finish it up. I wasn't happy with my bearing clearances. My rods were resized & I checked them & balanced them myself. My crank was 10 under on mains & 30 under on rods & again I checked it myself. All looked very good. But when I checked my bearing clearances I got .0025 on mains & .0015 to .0017 on rods. I was looking for .003 on mains & .002 to .0025 on rods. I can live with the mains but do you believe the rods are to tight?
Im new to the channel and I absolutely love all the material. I’m an amateur and learning a lot from you. Quick question please! Would I use a 240 or 400 grit ball hone to just remove the cylinder glazing? The cylinders are in otherwise good condition.
Is bearing material ferrous?
And make sure tou clean the bearing again.. because it looked like a piece of the mallet came off and was on the cap in the rear min part
Thank you
The torque wrench was making some funny noises at the 10:47 mark.
Just a question why only 45 ft pounds when checking bearing clearance and not the full torque?
I believe this question is answered in part 1
@@davidshellock1588 thank you! I will go back and watch.
It didn't change from from minimum to max as far as distortion
Hi David, here is my negative criticism.. Opening title credits Marvin Burke's name appears before yours, I don't think that is right since you are doing all the presenting. You are the legend we have all come to see. I think it is only fitting that you should have top billing. It's a small thing but it annoys me. you have put the hard work in over the decades, you deserve to be listed first.
Well thanks for your very complimentary comment but I have to say Marvin does so much of the background work that without his aid there might not be any videos.
@@marvingvx1 true, and I thought about that, but you could turn on the camera stand there and do a less impressive video, upload it and still be putting out interesting content people would watch. The same can't be said the other way around. In no industry does the star of the show ever get mentioned after the editor. Normally editorial is put up in the end credits. I am not trying to take anything away from Marvin's efforts. or down play it in any way, but typically in a title credits only people appearing in the video are mentioned. Nothing stops you putting up a special mention in the end credits, something like "Many thanks to Marvin, whom without this video production wouldn't be possible". Or "Video editing and production by Marvin" I don't know your specific relationship, or the depth of the assistance. But for you to come second in your own video doesn't seem right to me when it is your decades of experience I am coming to see. I have never heard of Marvin, I wouldn't know him from a bar a soap, I have owned one of your books since the 80's. You and your experience are what draws me to the channel.
The thing i dont like about plastigauge is for instance u check the front main brg clearance with it and the main journal next to it is larger in diametre it could make your front crank journal sit up higher Is this why u dont have the shell in the other centre main brgs? So im very interested to c part 3 because im assuming u do something similar with the centre 3 brgs and omit the end main shells when u check them as i am building a 4 cyl motorcycle engine also with 5 main brgs i am very interested in this my book says to use plastigauge all the main journals r to be checked at the same time imo opening up for potential for error! Now i went and bought the bore gauge with digital read out and ill measure each brg bore and brg shell and crank journal and do calcs to get it as close as i can to perhaps the middle of the spec or a bit toward the lower side What is your expert opinion on coated brgs thank u for your videos
Not sure I follow your point. You are removing the plastigauge immediately after measuring it and wiping the surface off to make sure there is no residue. There is nothing wrong with plastiguage as a tool I have used it many times myself, but it is no substitute for proper tools, but it does a good enough job that that I am willing to trust it. It is pretty foolproof. I don't know if you noticed in the video David took extreme care not to distort the platigauge after he removed the bolts. There is a risk of a false reading if you don't take the care he did.
Good tips!!
No dislikes so far :). Shame that somone could do that.
Awesome!
do you leave your "oil" in for final build or do you use a different assembly lube
I pressure feed oil into the system before startup so what is used during the build is not of any great influence.
I needed to buy two sets of bearings to get my clearances.
I always thought that also measuring the center bearing was important to see if the crank was bent, I know I've seen differences.
He will probably cover that next. Although this could also be checked with the crank on v blocks with a dial indicator.
@@pete540Z will definitely be checked but not sure if it will be shown, David demonstrated the technique twice, don't need to see them all. Important take away was a bit more clearance on the rear bearing.
What's that sound at 10:46?
One thing I like to do is always use a bare skin finger to give one final wipe over mating surfaces and bearings...clean hands of course. Gets all the lint and fine dirt
you can feel any fine dirt or abrasive that way i do it myself and wipe hand every time i touch a surface(usually on my shirt or pants)!
Damn.. Jacque was only 19 years old.. poor poor thing, I hate to see a young person pass away, especially someone like her that you KNOW would have gone far in life, I wonder what happened to her, but regardless it's sad.. I wonder if she's David's daughter or niece or granddaughter or what. Either way I feel so bad for him and the family. Rest in paradise Miss Jacque Vizard..
I use a little spit to hold plastigage in place on the journal. Might not be best practice, lol.
The proper way to measure bearing clearance would be to micrometre the crank journal and then inside micrometre the bearings torqued into the saddle . Plastic gauge is not accurate
Did you actually watch all 3 videos and read the un screen comments?????
Justb adjust the oil w
Plastiguage is close enough as long as it’s used correctly. Not every back yard builder has a sunnen dial bore gauge! Just me. Lol
Some people don't know that plastigauge goes "stale". If it sits around too long the string gets hard, and isn't as malleable as its designed to be. So it can give you erroneous readings.
*Missing teacher put to translation ,for don't lose Details*
thank you marvin
Bearing clearances aren't measured in "shade over" and "just about". When clearances are measured properly those terms aren't required. There is no way the naked eye can come up with .0027 with green plastigage. As I stated in your last video , reading Plastigage is like reading tea leaves, very open to interpretation!!! A professional never uses a steel faced hammer to install & remove a main cap!!! That is a job for a soft faced or deadblow hammer. A professional would also never pry off a man cap with a screwdriver!! You can easily damage the two mating surfaces. A professional never uses a torque wrench as a breaker bar to loosen bolts!! The best thing to do is pop the reversing lever out with a pocket screwdriver and throw it away! You should also lube the bottom side of the bolt head and washer, dry fasteners cause friction and erroneous torque readings. Just as different thread lubricants require different torque specs. What about checking the clearances on 2,3&4 caps? Just because the front and rear caps fall into spec doesn't mean the others will. ASSUMING leads to disaster!
The crankshaft diameter spec on the rear main journal(sbc) is typically .0005 smaller than the other main journals to increase the clearance on #5 cap. Was the block align/line honed? If so was a dummy oil pump torqued to the cap during the honing process? The oil pump can cause distortion , anywhere from a few tenths to several tenths. I don't care what people use for assembly lube as long they don't use Lubriplate 105 or a similar product, because it take alot of heat and time for it to break down and it plugs oil filters.
Regardless of how many books you have written and how many seminars you have given your last 3 videos in my professional opinion have really diminished your credibility with professionals that know the difference between right and wrong. You are not beyond reproach, contrary to what you might think.
And then you probably tell your buddies "I got into with David Vizard and told him what was up."
Time to pull finger out and share your EXPERT knowledge for free like this man is & make some videos of your own, don't be tight arse and protect your EXPERTISE. I'll subscribe to your account so I can watch them in future.
Can't wait to see your expert videos!
Andrew, I get your points, but I think you need to see it in the context of the target audiance and application. Yes there were things I wouldn't do, but overall folk building an engine to this level are far better off deploying them repeatabily, competently than not at all, and thus get better results. The hammer had a polished face, so it would be debris free, a softface if not kept clean can also easily leave debris. I wouldn't file anywhere near my block open or otherwise etc etc, but this is to get it all on the video, I'm sure David wouldn't either, and have to understand the context. Clearance is an interesting point, we may measure it aerospace accuracy, but how do we actually know what we need.. few establishments can measure the hydrostatic profile in the oil film and determine whether it has has the right profile or not, as the clearance is actually second order to what is in fact the important factor. Further, it will be dependent on the oil chemistry, temperatures, and be specific to that the materials and finishes. So how far down to fundamentals do you want to go before we can say we "know"? In most peoples cases, than professional teams where it is their business and reputation, and winning is the only way to stay in business, suitable and sufficient rules, as they will never be able to actually "know" with the appropriate fundamental data of what actually needs to be measured... how many people even do oil samples, and get those analysed, or even know what to do with the results... I get your point, but there is another side too. Have a great weekend.
Firstly, if you watch the 2 videos again I becomes obvious that the idea of using Plastic Gauge is a cheap and effective way of DOUBLE CHECKING clearances at time of final installation. He had pointed out in the first video that not everyone can afford the expensive measuring gauges that machine shops use and the method shown is a final, but not the only check, used in the build. There also was no implication to NOT check the other bearing caps but he pointed out that the REAR cap bearing HAD a slightly larger clearance by showing using the RED gauge material instead of the GREEN as used on the front. As for his terminology of a "SHADE OVER" must be taken in context of what he is actually saying, i.e. meaning 1-2 TENTHS of a Thousands of an inch. Two different engine builders may measure the same bearing clearances using the same professional tools and get a different result within a couple of a tenths of a thou, just because of their 'feel' when measuring. I myself have during my professional career used BOTH measuring tools and plasticguage together and never had a clearance problem during assembly. Also if an engine is still in vehicle, plasticgauge is an effective tool for checking clearance problems and diagnosing bigger faults.
Finally, nowhere in the videos is it suggested that this how clearance checking MUST be done BUT is one of many ways it CAN be done. It obviously works for some engine builders and not others. Its up to the assembler themselves to decide which way they do it. Do it whatever way you are confident with. 'There is more than one way to skin a cat' as long as the same result is gained for the end user.