Nice work mate, have just turned a 2 morse taper by clocking zero like you did, but used compound slide, but had to do 2 cuts, ( I have a Boxford too), Thanks for the tip on using an end mill in tailstock, I'm definately using that one! thanks!
Hi Some *details about the bearings used* in this project 608 2RS Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 8x22x7mm Deep Groove Metric Ball Bearings. Very simple in design being non-separable these bearings are suitable for high and even very high speeds, robust in operation and require little maintenance. Having deep raceway grooves in close proximity to the balls enables a deep groove ball bearing to accommodate axial loads in both directions as well as radial loads, even at high speeds. Single row deep groove ball bearings are the most common and widely used bearing. Size 8mm x 22mm x 7mm
A little trick that I learned: When assembling small parts with only two hands, use grease to help hold them together. Because of my work, I can't use machine grease so I carry Vaseline or petroleum jelly
Hi Yes I should have pressed the bearing in using the centre of the bearing. I did make bearing interference fit less than normal as I may need to remove and replace the point.
Very nicely done Allan. I now also don't feel such a wally when I go oversize by a thou or two, seems like chaps with a lot more experience than I also make mistakes now and again. Nice recovery though. Have you considered making a half dead centre for those applications when tool clearance becomes a problem at the face?
Hi Robert Normally I would use my bore comparator to tell me the bore size but 22mm was over the maximum size. I do have some half dead centres but I find they get hot very quickly and need plenty of oil. Thanks for watching
Alan great finish to this project. Would it be problematic to make a longer center that you made for a little more clearance, also how do you dissasemble it to change the centers? Thanks for another educational project!
Hi George You can make the centres as long as you like but remember the longer the centre the more runout you will get. Disassembly using an allen key unscrew the cap head inside from the rear of the Morse tapper then use a rod smaller than the bearing bore with the same thread as the cap head, screw it in.and tap the rod from the rear to remove the centre. You may need to support the bearings from the point end to stop them coming out.
Hi Bob The bore in the headstock is relative to the size of the chuck i.e. if you can pass a 1" bar through the chuck the headstock should be able to accommodate the bar so you could fit a long bar into the chuck to work on the end. On the other hand the tailstock only needs to hold drills or drill chucks which have a smaller hole than the headstock.
Hi Alan, With those two new centres you have, how far back do you need to strip to be able to install them? Do you use the same bearings, because they were pretty tight on the first centre and swapping them out frequently would eventually cause wear introducing an out of alignment. Regards
Hi Peter I can remove the centre without taking the bearings out of the body so any wear would be on the centre shaft . This part is made from mild steer and is simple to make a new one.
Hi Tony To change the centre first remove the cap head screw from the rear of the bearings then take a rod with the same thread as the cap head and screw it into the rear. The rod should be just under 8mm diameter. Now support the front to stop the bearings coming out, then tap the rod to eject the centre
Nice work mate, have just turned a 2 morse taper by clocking zero like you did, but used compound slide, but had to do 2 cuts, ( I have a Boxford too), Thanks for the tip on using an end mill in tailstock, I'm definately using that one! thanks!
Great video and a shop made live center to be proud of Thanks for sharing.
Hi Some *details about the bearings used* in this project
608 2RS Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 8x22x7mm Deep Groove Metric Ball Bearings. Very simple in design being non-separable these bearings are suitable for high and even very high speeds, robust in operation and require little maintenance. Having deep raceway grooves in close proximity to the balls enables a deep groove ball bearing to accommodate axial loads in both directions as well as radial loads, even at high speeds. Single row deep groove ball bearings are the most common and widely used bearing. Size 8mm x 22mm x 7mm
A little trick that I learned: When assembling small parts with only two hands, use grease to help hold them together. Because of my work, I can't use machine grease so I carry Vaseline or petroleum jelly
Hi Craig good tip
Hi all looks good but shouldn't you locate that bush on the centre of the bearing so as not to transfer the force through the balls
Hi Yes I should have pressed the bearing in using the centre of the bearing. I did make bearing interference fit less than normal as I may need to remove and replace the point.
Cool work 👍
Very nicely done Allan. I now also don't feel such a wally when I go oversize by a thou or two, seems like chaps with a lot more experience than I also make mistakes now and again. Nice recovery though. Have you considered making a half dead centre for those applications when tool clearance becomes a problem at the face?
Hi Robert
Normally I would use my bore comparator to tell me the bore size but 22mm was over the maximum size. I do have some half dead centres but I find they get hot very quickly and need plenty of oil.
Thanks for watching
Alan great finish to this project. Would it be problematic to make a longer center that you made for a little more clearance, also how do you dissasemble it to change the centers? Thanks for another educational project!
Hi George
You can make the centres as long as you like but remember the longer the centre the more runout you will get.
Disassembly using an allen key unscrew the cap head inside from the rear of the Morse tapper then use a rod smaller than the bearing bore with the same thread as the cap head, screw it in.and tap the rod from the rear to remove the centre. You may need to support the bearings from the point end to stop them coming out.
12:02 has Mrs Enots noticed that there are squares missing from her living room curtains?
I've often wondered why lathes are fitted with different sized Morse Tapers, on the head and tail stock, necessitating the use of adaptor sleeves.
Hi Bob The bore in the headstock is relative to the size of the chuck i.e. if you can pass a 1" bar through the chuck the headstock should be able to accommodate the bar so you could fit a long bar into the chuck to work on the end. On the other hand the tailstock only needs to hold drills or drill chucks which have a smaller hole than the headstock.
hi Alan did you silver solder the ball in and if so did you have to re harden it great work as always thanks for sharing
Dave
Hi Dave No I used electrical solder just to hold the ball as there should not be too much force on it.
Not sure how long the bearings will last, a follow up video would be nice after multiple hours of use.
Hi John I will use it in future videos so you can see how it performs.
I'm curious why you did not just use some bearing retainer instead of all the extra machining.
Hi It is important that the bearings locations are accurate and the bearings may need removing and replacing when changing the centres.
Regards
Alan
Hi Alan, With those two new centres you have, how far back do you need to strip to be able to install them? Do you use the same bearings, because they were pretty tight on the first centre and swapping them out frequently would eventually cause wear introducing an out of alignment. Regards
Hi Peter
I can remove the centre without taking the bearings out of the body so any wear would be on the centre shaft . This part is made from mild steer and is simple to make a new one.
beautiful!!!!
You have made extra centres, but how do you swap them as the first is very tight and had to be pressed in?
Hi Tony
To change the centre first remove the cap head screw from the rear of the bearings then take a rod with the same thread as the cap head and screw it into the rear. The rod should be just under 8mm diameter. Now support the front to stop the bearings coming out, then tap the rod to eject the centre