Don't be afraid to make a 45 minute video or longer. Sometimes it takes more time to provide a complete description of the process and tools and methods. Thanks for the video.
Nice work. My understanding is that tackiness in Polyester resin is from exposure to air, consequently, removing the contact with air either with PVA, wax additive or subsequent layers should allow the resin to cure, so your Gelcoat inside the mould shouldn't have needed PVA to cure after the mould was removed. Also, the Carbon Fiber guys routinely don't use Gelcoat instead finishing with 2K polyurethane clear to show off the carbon fiber, so as you refinished over the gelcoat anyway I think you could have just used laminating resin and saved the initial gel coating step.
I didn’t use PVA on the gelcoat that was inside the mold. I used PVA over the gelcoat that I sprayed on after the mold was removed. The console needed fairing work and the customer wanted the gelcoat color matched so I fixed the small imperfections and then sprayed the color matched gelcoat after. Carbon fiber parts are made using epoxy resin not polyester resins and they are typically made using vacuum resin infusion. The build process is totally different. If you tried to layup this part in the mold without putting gelcoat down first it would be a nightmare getting the resin into the corners and not creating air pockets. The 30mil gelcoat layer fills the corners and radius MUCH easier than raw resin and glass. Also the customer wanted gelcoat not polyurethane paint so that wasn’t an option.
I’m confused by some of your logic here? PVA is used to cure gelcoat so it can be sanded instead of adding wax. Spraying a polyester primer like Duratec in that situation makes no sense unless you are planning to paint over the gelcoat. I used the PVA so I could cure the gel and continue with wet sanding and buffing.
On 1 video I noticed that you made one leaning post and made everything from the outside 😮 on this one you made a leaning post from the inside with a core base why?
Making parts using a mold makes the outside surface smooth. Making it from the outside requires hours and hours to smooth out the finish. Always use a mold if you can.
Great build. Very informative. Wondered about glassing but then leaving gaps on the edges of the honeycomb??? Why not make a tight fit and tab it to the vertical side? (Side note: Please slow, slow, slow down your camera movement when shooting video. I feel like a nervous racoon after watching all this fast jumping around. Makes it very difficult to see the effect or result of the work after each step in the process)
The camera is typically mounted on a tripod. I just watched the video again and there’s only a few times that I’m actually holding the camera in my hand. The rest is all fast motion to speed up the video. If I slow it down this video would be an hour long. There’s 50 hours of work in this 20minute video. The edge of the honeycomb was covered with thickened putty to make a transition and then it was tabbed over.
Great stuff! Do you mind sharing where you can get gal Gelcoat for that price ($48)? Also, I have some deck fairing to do on my Mako restoration, can you recommend any fairing compound that doesn't break the bank? Total Boat (Fairing C.) is great, but a gal price is $$$$ ! I'd appreciate it
My local hardware store sells white GC for $48. That’s about average around here for general purpose. Never buy anything from Total Boat. It’s all grossly overpriced.
@@BackyardBoatworks if you do I’d love to see a step by step video I can bend the 6063 tubing and weld aluminum myself but lost on the fiberglass work, I want to build a half tower for my 24’
Yes. Polyester primers are the same for auto and marine. **for the most part Any high build polyester automotive primer will work under gelcoat. I actually use automotive 4:1 2k high build in my shop for a lot of stuff.
Yes the 800 is the only one that accepts the organic vapor filter. The 300 versions are only for dust and particulate. The organic vapor filters unfortunately are expensive also and they only last for 40 hours of use. I’m pay about $80 for a new filter but I don’t think I could work without it especially spraying polyester paints in a booth.
How much do you get paid per hour ? Clearly you have no idea what fiberglass work cost and I only charged $45/hr. Call up your local fiberglass shop and ask them to build you a custom piece to your exact specs. Expect it to be twice what I charged or more. Most shops won’t even touch it with out an existing mold. But I’d love to hear your infinite wisdom on what things should cost.
@@BackyardBoatworks mate, I hope this is side work you enjoy doing and not your primary source of income at that rate. I know cost of living can’t be that cheap in Ft Laud… skilled trades people should not be cheap It looks like you are doing good work, thanks so much for sharing with us all. Best of luck to you
Thanks. I’ve raised my rates significantly for custom work but I try to not take on much custom work anymore and my income is mostly making hatches and lids right now 👍🏼
Seems right on the money price wise. That and 50 bucks an hour. Plus shop supplies. Cups, sand paper, acetone, etc. custom isn’t cheap. But if you want it then you have to pay.
At first I thought you were just going to glass over plywood, cool👍👍
Don't be afraid to make a 45 minute video or longer. Sometimes it takes more time to provide a complete description of the process and tools and methods. Thanks for the video.
I’m planning to make long form videos soon on a few topics 👍🏼
Scrolling TH-cam because I wanted to learn to fiberglass and I thought that voice sounded familiar. Hope you're doing well man!
Nice work dude! This looks really good and it was cool seeing what is involved with building something like this!
Thanks man appreciate it. I came across your new boat channel recently. Wish I could reach that many people. 😃
Thanks for the instruction and giving me some great ideas!
Only one word: THANKS! 👍
Thanks
Nice lookin seat base! Great technique.
Thanks. Very pleased with the results.
Great video, Thanks.
Awesome awesome video.
I had an idea And you had the knowledge. You exceeded my expectations.
Thanks again for all your hard work.
Thanks again!
You’re a pro! Looks great!
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
nice job!
really nice job! wow, lots or work!!
Super informative Thanks Man!!!!
Great video.!!
Thanks.
Good 👍
Ever use Duratec in your gelcoat? Really works good and cures the gelcoat without pva or wax
Yes but it’s expensive and the PVA works good.
Nice work. My understanding is that tackiness in Polyester resin is from exposure to air, consequently, removing the contact with air either with PVA, wax additive or subsequent layers should allow the resin to cure, so your Gelcoat inside the mould shouldn't have needed PVA to cure after the mould was removed. Also, the Carbon Fiber guys routinely don't use Gelcoat instead finishing with 2K polyurethane clear to show off the carbon fiber, so as you refinished over the gelcoat anyway I think you could have just used laminating resin and saved the initial gel coating step.
I didn’t use PVA on the gelcoat that was inside the mold. I used PVA over the gelcoat that I sprayed on after the mold was removed. The console needed fairing work and the customer wanted the gelcoat color matched so I fixed the small imperfections and then sprayed the color matched gelcoat after.
Carbon fiber parts are made using epoxy resin not polyester resins and they are typically made using vacuum resin infusion. The build process is totally different. If you tried to layup this part in the mold without putting gelcoat down first it would be a nightmare getting the resin into the corners and not creating air pockets. The 30mil gelcoat layer fills the corners and radius MUCH easier than raw resin and glass.
Also the customer wanted gelcoat not polyurethane paint so that wasn’t an option.
@@BackyardBoatworks I stand corrected and take your points, I've been using Duratec recently in lieu of PVA with good results
I’m confused by some of your logic here? PVA is used to cure gelcoat so it can be sanded instead of adding wax. Spraying a polyester primer like Duratec in that situation makes no sense unless you are planning to paint over the gelcoat. I used the PVA so I could cure the gel and continue with wet sanding and buffing.
On 1 video I noticed that you made one leaning post and made everything from the outside 😮 on this one you made a leaning post from the inside with a core base why?
Making parts using a mold makes the outside surface smooth. Making it from the outside requires hours and hours to smooth out the finish. Always use a mold if you can.
Wow should hire you lol
Great videos, I have learned a lot by watching them. I have a question, What are using for the gasket material for the door and how is it installed?
No gasket on this one.
Looks fantastic! Where did you find that radius tool? Thanks!
There’s a link to my Amazon store in the description.
Great video What is the name of the song at the end 😁
Thanks. Not sure. Something I paid to use from a royalty free music store.
@@BackyardBoatworks thanks for the reply and again great 👍 work on the video
Great build. Very informative. Wondered about glassing but then leaving gaps on the edges of the honeycomb??? Why not make a tight fit and tab it to the vertical side?
(Side note: Please slow, slow, slow down your camera movement when shooting video. I feel like a nervous racoon after watching all this fast jumping around. Makes it very difficult to see the effect or result of the work after each step in the process)
The camera is typically mounted on a tripod. I just watched the video again and there’s only a few times that I’m actually holding the camera in my hand. The rest is all fast motion to speed up the video. If I slow it down this video would be an hour long. There’s 50 hours of work in this 20minute video.
The edge of the honeycomb was covered with thickened putty to make a transition and then it was tabbed over.
Great stuff! Do you mind sharing where you can get gal Gelcoat for that price ($48)? Also, I have some deck fairing to do on my Mako restoration, can you recommend any fairing compound that doesn't break the bank? Total Boat (Fairing C.) is great, but a gal price is $$$$ ! I'd appreciate it
My local hardware store sells white GC for $48. That’s about average around here for general purpose. Never buy anything from Total Boat. It’s all grossly overpriced.
Beautiful work have you ever made a custom fiberglass hardtop?
I haven’t but it would be fairly easy. I might build one for my personal boat soon
@@BackyardBoatworks if you do I’d love to see a step by step video I can bend the 6063 tubing and weld aluminum myself but lost on the fiberglass work, I want to build a half tower for my 24’
A flat top is a lot easier than a curved top obviously. It’ll be a while before I get to that. Too many other things to get done.
Hey can you tell me where you found these items? Honey Comb Core 5/8", Coosa Core 3/4"
Fiberglass Coatings Inc.
This always seems likes it going to collapse when you sit on it… does resin really hold this together that strong?
Huh ?
@@BackyardBoatworks I’m said using those materials always looks flimsy like it would break if you sat on it. It’s really that strong? Like wood?
will high build auto primer work with gelcoat?
Yes. Polyester primers are the same for auto and marine. **for the most part
Any high build polyester automotive primer will work under gelcoat. I actually use automotive 4:1 2k high build in my shop for a lot of stuff.
What DA sander are you using?
Using a really old Porter Cable DA. I’ve had it for over 15 years.
@@BackyardBoatworks thank you for the reply. That’s the one I’m looking at.
What positive air mask/ respirstor are u using when you sprayed the primer. I am looking to get one.
3m versaflo with organic vapor filter. They run about $1800
@@BackyardBoatworks is that the 800 model? There are lots of versflo s
Yes the 800 is the only one that accepts the organic vapor filter. The 300 versions are only for dust and particulate. The organic vapor filters unfortunately are expensive also and they only last for 40 hours of use. I’m pay about $80 for a new filter but I don’t think I could work without it especially spraying polyester paints in a booth.
Can you build that for me? Ive been looking for someone to do that exact project!
Sure. This one cost $2800. Email me russ@backyardboatworks.com
Good god $2800 I'm guessing you didn't get an email. Lmfao
How much do you get paid per hour ? Clearly you have no idea what fiberglass work cost and I only charged $45/hr. Call up your local fiberglass shop and ask them to build you a custom piece to your exact specs. Expect it to be twice what I charged or more. Most shops won’t even touch it with out an existing mold. But I’d love to hear your infinite wisdom on what things should cost.
@@BackyardBoatworks mate, I hope this is side work you enjoy doing and not your primary source of income at that rate. I know cost of living can’t be that cheap in Ft Laud… skilled trades people should not be cheap
It looks like you are doing good work, thanks so much for sharing with us all. Best of luck to you
Thanks. I’ve raised my rates significantly for custom work but I try to not take on much custom work anymore and my income is mostly making hatches and lids right now 👍🏼
would look neat if you use that expensive glossy melamine.
Know anyone makes Gas Tanks?
That has to be $5000 for that it’s a lot of work
$500 in materials for that??? Seems awfully high care to share your materials list???
Lol. You priced out supplies recently ?
Oddly I have it saved. Here ya go !
Plywood 1-sheet Melamine 1 $42.00 $42.00
White Gelcoat gallon 1 $48.00 $48.00
Colored Gelcoat quarts 2 $30.47 $60.94
Hand Layup Resin gallons 3 $46.63 $139.89
General Purpose Resin 2 $28.67 $57.34
Honey Comb Core 5/8" 1 $18.87 $18.87
Coosa Core 3/4" 1 $35.22 $35.22
Core Mat 1 $8.54 $8.54
1708 Biaxial Cloth yards 3 $8.67 $26.01
1.5oz CSM yards 9 $3.77 $33.93
Mold Release Wax 1 $5.50 $5.50
MDF Plywood 1/4 sheet 1 $23.47 $23.47
$499.71
Seems right on the money price wise. That and 50 bucks an hour. Plus shop supplies. Cups, sand paper, acetone, etc. custom isn’t cheap. But if you want it then you have to pay.
@@lanceforrest8828 one off/short run is hard to do. Labor alone is a lot more intense than people think for a simple part.