Finally!! A straight to the point video tutorial that shows everything needed to run a simple home network. I think i'm gonna follow your model and build my home network. Thanks for the video!!
+Robert Hicks it has passed the wife test, from what I can tell. She has only said two things about it, "I have no idea what that is," and "it looks like mission control." I will consider that a pass.
Tip: Do not use zip ties. The sheathing on the network cable can swell and shrink based on temperature shifts which will cause the zip ties to cut into the cable. Instead spend a couple of bucks on a roll of velcro and cut strips of that to manage your cables.
It's not even that, if you ever need to redo your cable management for whatever reason, you have to cut the zip ties and risk damaging the cables then too.
@@MatthewHauserman I don't have time for that. Velcro is reusable and just pops right off and goes right back on. Velcro was also flexible and won't cut into the cabling through thermal expansion and contraction. If you are a contractor that I hired to run cabling and you use zip ties you are redoing the job or you are not getting paid because you did not complete the job through the scope of work.
@@Squirleypoo you wouldn't be hiring me cause I would overprice it for being picky. Zip ties would not damage the cabling if you use them properly. You're not suppose to tighten them enough that they can cut into the cabling. Oh and you could try to refuse payment, I would just put a lien on your property as it wouldn't be specified how cables are secured in the scope of work and there is no code against zip ties.
I liked your setup so much that I mimicked it almost entirely. I have a few more devices that I put on some shelves in the rack as well. Thanks for the video.
No, it would fail the inspection because it might come into contact with the LV cable and cause high voltage to be introduced into that system. The code doesn't care about data interference. It only cares about safety.
How is this a budget home network? a budget home network is literally a single router and doesn't even require cables if you need to go wireless for everything. 95% of everything you have set up is completely optional.
Really like the video, i always seek tech tips that are affordable and doable, kindly continue on producing such content also let us in about the research you did. also keep on making budget tech videos, do a budget solar panel or budget home plumbing or water system
1 tip on the punchdown panel. You need to maintain the pair twist tolerance all the way from the jacket butt to the panel itself. Very important on Cat6 and up spec cables. Each pair is twisted differently to prevent cross talk. That few inches of untwisting the pairs can drop your network speed a lot. Same goes if installing a RJ45 connector.
You should be fine. It will work. But if you are a lot slower than 1G. Like 600M or 700M. Just pull the wire out of the blocks. Cut off the wires and rebutt the cable jacket. You should have a max of 1/2" of wire exposed from the jacket butt after you punch down. Do not untwist the pairs. Just spread them enough to slide them in the block teeth and punch. Just a FYI colors and pairs do matter. Follow the standards. On cat 5 you could get away with "It does not matter so long they are the same on both ends of the cable". On cat 6 and up in does matter. On 10G it matters a whole bunch.
True enough - it has been my experience that you don't run into issues until your cable length goes past 80% of the maximum standard length. Also important is keeping the wire lengths of each pair close to the same. Having said that, I can't count how many times I have seen improper cat 5 and 6 terminations that still pass 1GB - probably because most cable runs don't get close to the maximum length. The majority of actual problems I have encountered were due to people swapping A&B standards, mislabeling cables, or badly nicking the insulation when they strip off the sheath. All of those problems should have been caught by tests which were supposed to be mandatory; instead I caught them while installing equipment and I ended up taking off the jacks and fixing them.
Matthew Barras Exactly this, you also aren't supposed to strip the wire pairs the punch down does this automatically. Yeah you can still get full speed, but you will create a ton of collisions where packets need to be resent. Also for the in wall work you don't want any wires going near power lines as they too will create a lot of EMI and interference.
If you wanted to save a little money you could've just run 1 or 2 ethernet cables to your entertainment center and then added a switch. Also, I've repurposed old routers into switches by disabling DHCP and wireless capabilities if anyone wanted to save even a little more money.
Bman8862 I'd agree, Linksys or Netgear or others offer inexpensive switches ($25-$40 Gigabit). In my office sure for troubleshooting make them all home runs, but a home it's not necessary.
Ask anyone who works in enterprise networking, cascading switches.. especially in a managed environment is a fucking nightmare. I mean, I would spend the extra money just to run everything back to a central switch. But yes, you are right, good ideas to save money!
Can I ask, why did you go with a frame rack instead of a cabinet style self contained rack? I think it would have maybe worked better in your situation?
Just finished a new build house. This and your patch panel video really helpful. I now have very similar set up plus all TV/Sat connections. Looks so neat and professional and works reliably.
Nice walkthrough of the install. I went through this in my house with a budget of around 500. I had a few more criteria to hit, mainly i wanted a lockable cabinet because I plan to keep a surveillance nvr in there. I did use the same switch and patch panel.
Nice! Just trolling looking for diy videos to link to my customers. Networking is the biggest concern for home computer enthusiasts. Cabling and associated hardware is 95% of networking which scares most folks off, not to mention the cost of a professional doing the wiring. I run a one-man computer repair/cleanup/upgrade/network business from home. I school all my customers on the benefits of a wired verses wifi network and give them a hand doing it. Most times its as simple as running a single ethernet cable from their cable/phone modem or gateway to their computer with instant improvement in service and connection latency issues. I can give lots of help for a mere 12 pack of Coronas! 😁 🍺
Very good looking setup. I need to do something like this, but I have just thrown mine together. And, I'm still working out the bugs. But, glad you walked-through it and had the time to do it right !!! Good job ...
One element I picked up from watching pro vids on networks is the "service loop", a loop of cable that gives you the spare length if you need to fix something. There are other choices that can be used, though they cost more money, such as Keystone connectors which need very little untwisting of the twisted pairs. General electrical safety: keep your network cabling clear of mains power cabling. I'm in the UK, where we run at 240v, and maybe the electricians in my family made me a little over-cautious. Some things you show would be difficult here in the UK, because of different house-construction methods. The Keystone system is available here, with connector modules for aerial and audio connections, but there is a different size standard, working in a similar way, that also gets called Keystone by some. Again, different UK standards, but I would use a PDU that had standard UK power sockets, rather than the IEC types (which you can see on a desktop PCs PSU). It makes it easy to add a wall-wart to power something such as that wi-fi, or a PoE box, or just to provide a USB charging point for a phone.
I did this after watching this video in 2020.. Cant be happier! nice to have the whole house on wired and take the massive strain off the wifi with so many devices.
so overkill for what you needed...used 1/3 of the patch connectors and not even 1/4 of the switch ports lol. i assume you plan on seriously expanding your network in the future
Just a suggestion for others I recently found out about. They offer keystone compatible patch panels that make working on the patch panel more convenient. It also helps if a port dies because you can replace instead of just having to mark it as dead.
Love the neatness. I've done a bunch of office network cable installs and here are a couple of quick notes: 1. Run the cables from the hinged side instead (to the right in the video). This allow you to punch them down, tie them up, and then rotate it back into place with the cables fully mounted. 2. That seems like a lot of metal to mess with your wifi hotspot/router's antennas. Might be better to mount it somewhere away from the rack. The other walls inside the closet, for example. 3. Cable labels are your friend. :) Maybe they're done and I'm not seeing them in the vid? I won't do any kind of install without them anymore (not even car stereo). In very big setups we will write on the cable itself before heat shrinking on something more permanent once the final length is determined.
Good points. Starting at the hinge side is a good idea, my ports would start at 24 and go down instead of 1, but could be worse. Yeah, the WiFi hotspot seems perfectly fine. Get great reception and speed on wireless, so can't be doing much really. Thanks for the comment.
@@BudgetNerd Meaningful names help a lot, even in smaller setups like this, so like "Living room 1 .. 4", "Master Bed", etc. Just a bit of time up front saves a bunch down the road. Much easier than having to uncover the port at the other end or having to tone out which one is which.
+Jesper Vikström I label the ports on the wall plates, which corresponds to the numbers on the patch panel. Then I just "patch" a little cable from the patch panel to any port on the switch.
+Jesper Vikström each cable that runs through the house goes from a wall plate somewhere in the house to a position on the patch panel. Each spot on the patch panel has a number. So if the cable terminates on the patch panel position 5, I write or label the wall jack on the other end with 5. Then I run a "Ethernet patch cable" from spot 5 on the patch panel to the switch.
Just wondering did you label first or did you go back and check later? (I always label all cables even if just with a sharpie, when pulling. Maybe just used to it from my commercial experience.) Also, just a tip, it's easier to punch down your cables the other way. I know you said you wouldn't use the hinge, but if you run them down the side with the hinge you can have a cleaner path back to the wall, also if you ever do decide to use the hinge it'll work fine. Lastly maybe use an angle grinder/dremel/hacksaw to cut the hinge to fit just the panel so you can swing it open whenever and not have to remove the rest of the devices.
Very neatly done. Would have gone with a managed 16 port layer 2 switch with PoE+ capability on some of the ports though. Gotta be able to run a more central ceiling mounted AP and VLAN support is a must. Can always buy another unmanaged 16 port switch later on the cheap for expansion. I like to create separate VLANs for my main, guest, kids networks, and a fourth VLAN for IoT devices and anything else that needs internet connectivity but has questionable security features. Thanks for sharing.
"Wife test" LOL, obviously you never met me ;) I'm a woman who handles all of our networking in the house and buys the rackmount equipment. My husband would never meet my very fussy hardware demands when it comes to high-end networking equipment ;)
Nice but kind of overkill for a home. You run aormal 4 port switch to the different rooms then you just add more switches as needed depending on which room needs it. less complicated cable management
id like to do something like this myself. Very clean work, looks well organized and professional... i feel that will be my downfall (usually is, especially in PC building) where i start off strong with cable management but after several "undo's" and another hours worth of routing i get in such a rush near the finish line i just start stuffing in cables and cramming cover plates over stuff and turn the window towards the wall so nobody can see my shame. again, great looking build!
Ah! you might be right, im just basing it on 4:03 in the video but we dont get to see the bottom holes, they could be upright. don't mind me, just giving my unsolicited two cents
If you watch around 01:53 the holes appear to have the cut outs top and bottom. I see why you have thought that from 04:00 though as it does look like the slot has been put the wrong way up. My guess would be they're made to work either way and a logo is put on after.
@@cjkline83 I did this because my security cameras require wifi and its great, I have a pretty small UPS as well and it ran for 8 hours the only time my power went out
Really useful for learning how to set up a wired home network, my fam have always managed on WiFi but with the new setup we're installing we can use ethernet and we will have a better WiFi connection. It won't be quite as good as yours but it will definitely be a massive improvement, thanks for sharing your knowledge
2:01 "Does have a 12 inch depth, which should allow enough space for most any typical rackmounted equipment". (Looks to left to see my Dell PowerEdge 2950 server yet to be installed, which looks *at least 3 feet long*...)
Even if that rack could accommodate that depth, it would never hold that much weight. I think my DL380 G7 would probably make a pancake out of it. But you wouldn't want to put a 2950 anywhere near a living space because they're so incredibly loud.
Funny you should mention that... as mine is only 15ft away from my bedroom with only two un-insulated walls between me and the jet engine Dell rebranded as a server. Which is 90% of the reason I just use it as a multi-core workhorse when I need it, and a learning playground. Still wish I could actually use the rails I have for it though =(
great video! we are building a new house and I plan to run my cables before all the walls are complete. Just an observation. You may have mounted the rack like you did for the swing out feature, but the mounting holes appear to make it look like you hung the rack upside down. Just wondered. Great information, and wish me luck with mine. Thanks.
I just finished my similar set up un my new house. Well the data part anyways. I have some coaxial cable I would like to find some rack equipment for and make just as nice. But this is a great start. Thank you foe showing me how to get this done.
yopparaiiii I just asked the guy that was installing the new network at work if I could work with his.l company and ironically enough he gave me his contact info and I hope and pray I could get this job. It's something I would love to do not to mention the money is good too
This job is not for everyone, but if you know what you are getting into, it can be a lot of fun. Wish you the best. When you do get in, practice 'Safety First'.
Oddly your voice is a dead match (at least to my ears) to bitwit. You guys sound exactly the same. That being said lol. Nice setup. Love the way it looks.
I'm more interested in how the devices are connected, that motorola box is what takes the fiber/whatever brings your connection I would guess, then you go in the router, then the switch. or do you go isp box>switch>router
that electrical wiring at 4:24 isn't up to code. the romex connector is stripped out of the compression slot which looks like you completely pushed out like a novice, and there are no staples securing the romex to the wall. i mean make a little effort.
CxnTrxL people watch things like this and think: "well that's good enough I'll do mine like that". Then they get a fire and endanger the lives of others. So yea pointing out the flaws in something potentially life threatening so nobody else does it makes me feel good. And it should make the person doing it realize what they have done is wrong and correct it. I should note that, everything else is done well. Although I recently learned that cat cables should be minimally untwisted (like 1/2 in) for optimal performance.
I'm not a fan of the decision for a patch panel. Patch panels are an added cost and serves to add 1 more layer for something to go wrong with the signal. It's much faster & cheaper to work with RJ45 connections directly to the 24-port switch. In my opinion it's also faster to troubleshooting with a cable tester. You only have to test 1 port instead of 2 in a worst case scenario for signal testing. Patch panel for a 1 switch / 1 router installation is completely unnecessary. With each wall plate you also add a layer for signal issues or unplugged cables. I love how you tried to reduce that by going straight to the patch panel but you could have reduced it further by going straight to the switch. I won't disagree with your decision to go with a 24 port switch. For today's residential needs it is overkill but no one expected IPV4 to be filled so quickly. Who knows how many connections a home in the future will really need. Question is as of today how many of those ports are you actually using? I'm gonna say about 8-10. Plenty of overhead. Anyway, the patch panel is just a middle man so cut out the middle man by terminating all cables with RJ45 plugs and plug them directly into your switch. I would have used 3x 8-port keystone wall plates instead (for a 24-port switch) instead of a pull through plate. I like that you plugged the excess hole of the pull through. I see so many of them that are open and I'm like do you want mice because this is how you get mice. Keystone wall plates are so much easier to work with, provides a highly professional look for residential, and takes the place of a patch panel. I would have placed the wall plates directly beneath the rack so cable length between the wall and switch are shorter. Also I would have installed the rack much lower on the wall as you've now commandeered a good portion of usable hanging clothes space. Wife test would have gotten a better grade with a decision to put it lower. :/ Don't get me wrong, I'm geeking out seeing your build. You've done a great job, something that most would be proud of. I'm simply saying I would have done it differently and definitely cheaper. You don't mention to your viewers that a patch panel is unnecessary if you go a different way. To the uninitiated, your build might seem daunting to them due to the patch panel. Sorry to be so critical I hope your not offended that is not my intention. As a fellow geek and installer that's just what we do. We judge each others work and offer suggestions for improvement. Seeing the patch panel for a small home rack kind of made me twitch a bit and I felt compelled to offer my opinion and suggestions. Great build though!
+DJDevon3 you raise some good points. For sure a patch panel isn't necessary, but I wanted one. However, any money I would have saved subtracting the patch panel I would have spent on more RJ45 jacks/keystones/and wall plates as you suggested. I am only currently using 6 of them, but I only just set it up. 24 might be overkill in most cases, but that was my goal. For those that do not know, the patch panel could add unneeded complexity to it.. but my setup, of course, isn't for everyone. Perhaps I could also do a video talking about the patch panel and who it would be good for.. :)
Good point. Keystone plates and jacks add up quick. Since you offer this up to youtube as a budget build, I recommend putting amazon links and prices in your video description. Make it easier for people to replicate your build or look at all the components. It was one of the first things I looked for after watching the video and nothing was there. :( I just purchased a similar switch for an install I'm doing on Monday. I'm not a fan of TP Link, I prefer Buffalo for budget builds since they have loopback protection which can come in handy for network stability, security, and troubleshooting but they are a tiny bit more expensive than TP Link. For a budget build you'd be hard pressed to find a 16+ switch cheaper than TP Link right now, good choice. I would definitely watch if you make a video about pros/cons of a patch panel, when/where to use one. Patch panels aren't for beginners in my opinion, plenty to go wrong since each lead represents more physical connections and those connections have to be good. I think anyone doing this kind of build should also add a cable tester to their toolbox. You can find them on amazon for like $20 and they can be worth their weight in gold during a build especially for a first timer. I think that would be a great recommendation to have added with your video. To even think of using a patch panel means you have a high level of knowledge so I congratulate you on that. I enjoyed every minute of watching your build even if I had a minor disagreement with some of it, very enjoyable. :) Most viewers on youtube have never created their own patch cable let alone done an entire home install. For the general public I think a patch panel is the wrong thing to advise. You obviously have enough knowledge to do it which honestly is what really made for the most enjoyment. It's not everyday you see someone do a patch panel in their house. The avg viewer isn't as knowledge and it would only cause them more headache than necessary.
+DJDevon3 I've been meaning to get some links in the description, those would be good you are right. I will be getting a pretty nice cable tester soon for a project and was contemplating doing a review on it, but yes, a good tester is very helpful. I did have to borrow one from work, from out network team to fix one port I wired wrong.
TechnoBike HD basically kid, wifi doesn't mean Internet. Wifi is a wireless way of delivering Internet. You can deliver internet through wires as well. So imagine one of the blue wires being connected to your phone all the time. You'll never have internet issues unless they come from your Internet service provider or the modem that's accepting the connection from your ISP.
Simple Man yes - correct, was trying to simplify it as much as possible, my younger cousin thinks "wifi" is simply Internet, always refers to his wifi being faster than mine but his intention is to say his isp is quicker
We have only lived in our house for a few years (new tract home) and forgot about our wall panel in the master bedroom closet until this covid 19 quarantine and my husband and I found ourselves with having to set up home office workstations in order to work remotely. We have a tower hardwired to modem downstairs and were using WIFI when using our phones or iPads. I need to setup up office upstairs and don’t know how to go from picture below to hardwiring docking station for my work laptop I’m clueless and your videos have been helpful but scared I’m going to do something wrong and cost us lots of $$ to fix my mistake
Hi, Lori-An. I am in the same boat. I’ve been crawling around in the attic for days, but I have learned a lot. I think you should go for it if you have not done so already.
Thank you for this video, really helpful and I didn't know I needed to add protection first before just plugging in a switch. I have a Netgear R7000 router which has a DHCP server setting turned on, so is that my security covered? Can I just add a switch and I am protected well enough from my Netgear router?
I just purchased NETGEAR 12-Port Gigabit Layer 2 Managed Switch GSM7212 ,I researched and every Techie say you have more control over your settings. it is a 2006 hope it works for my needs. should have it today! setting and waiting.
+room42 I am aware of that, and tried my best. In that small space for the TV, there were just so many wires. You can see that I tried to make the single Ethernet cable going for the future TV cross at a 90 degree angle to the power for the TV.
Ok, I'll watch this - as I will be moving soon and will need to set up network infrastructure (router, wifi-access-point, cables, network-sockets in each room etc. - well, ok: Not the bathroom, I am never going to put a computer there!) first (before all the furniture is moved in and even before I paint the walls, too because drilling holes for cables makes a mess, so I'll paint after that!)
I caution you on the TP-Link switch. This product is considered a switch for business and therefore TP-Link on the normal chat cant answer any questions. They give you a phone number to call and they give you an email address. Maybe a phone call is ok but thats a piss pore business practice in my book. No offense to Budget Nerd with this post. I like what you've done and I'm going to build one now. I will be checking Cisco and D-Link now after learning this information.
@Budget Nerd. Thanks. Nice Video. Basic question for you. How is the router connected to the switch in the final build. Initially it looks like you went straight from the router into port 1 directly from the front right into the switch. I'm a novice but can't tell how you connected the router to the switch in the final build. Thanks!
If you need to add a UPS to protect your network gear as well as to keep it running if the power fails. Which one would you use? Debating on whether I should pick a rack mountable or a regular one. Another question: If you need PoE for IP cameras, would you shell more money and buy a PoE switch or use PoE injectors instead?
POE Switch as Injectors can become cumbersome fast once you go over about 6. Injectors are blocks like a pack or 2 of playing cards thick so a Switch would be better. I have a Cisco POE 24 port for expansion but have 7 items that run POE on it now.
One of the better network/cabinet tours on youtube. Great video and nice setup. (our setup is like your before setup!) Where you say you cant swing out your patch panel, you could take a hacksaw and cut the hinge top and bottom of the patch panel so you could swing out just that section?
+Accessfm thank you. That is very kind. Yes you could in theory cut the hinge part like that around the patch panel, then yes it would swing on its own without needing to remove anything else.
Hiii. I am from India. Iam intrusted in networking because of you .but I don't know how it learn . Any course is need to learn ?if it is yes where did I get ,(like University's or any other sources? Please teach mee
THIS ALSO MAGNIFIES YOUR WIRELESS CONNECTION FROM EVERY DEVICE? SAY, TV, LAPTOP OR TABLET, AND EVEN CONSOLES, OR GAME PC'S WITH SAY WIRELESS KEYBOARD? OR DO YOU GAVE TO ADD ON WIRELESS ROUTER SIGNAL MAGNIFIERS? GREAT SET UP BY THE WAY.
Sometimes it seems to be really useful that American houses are made of wood and paper. In my house that would be impossible if I hadn’t thought about it when the house was built, which I did .
Great video. I’m in the process of setting my first one up based on your design. How do you recommend mounting this rack on the wall? Why did you decide to use a bracket wall mount over an open sided rack? If you had to do it over again, would you use a TP-Link switch or something else?
I would recommend screwing into studs. The studs in most places in the USA are 16 inches apart. The holes on the rack should be 16" apart as well. Just line them up with the studs and it will be solid. I went with that rack mostly just because of cost. I would have loved an open sided rack, but this one was cheap. I haven't had a single issue with this switch actually its been great. I would totally buy it again.. unless I wanted a managed switch.. but I don't really need one.
why do you need all that man ? ive got 1 gb speeds with just the router and a 20 dollar tp link switch , what are you trying to achieve? , am i missing some point here. if you need 1gb speed most people just need to update there drivers & buy the correct cat 6 cable of ebay for a few bucks and most modems will push 1gb ... maybe im just not that smart and it flown over my hear like a 747 .
Nah.. no one has to have this setup. This is overkill for sure. The patch panel is total nerd bling and gives a professional look but not necessary, the large switch is a little overkill (read: room for expansion), and the rack just looks cool. I could do it this way, so I did. There are lots of ways to get a decent functional network in a house. This is just what I did.
One could just buy a couple of routers and mesh them together to cover every inch of their house for video streaming or just casual browsing but a wired connection is best in my opinion. Also, if you game then its a must for your PC or console.
What is this? What does it do? Do you olug it into an ISPs network? Is it still limited by the ISPs speeds? Is all this rack simple a way to run multiple hardwire ethernet cords through the house
My setup is almost identical but my rack is in the basement and the wifi router is in the stairwell so its more centrally located. Port one patches my cable modem to the router's wan port and port 2 patches a lan port back into the switch where its distributed throughout the house. I even use passive gigabit POE injectors so no outlet needed near the router.
Never seen such patch panel. That saves a lot of messing around with RJ45 connectors and pliers. But i think the 8 patch points behind the entertainment set is a bit overkill. Feels to me like you are trying to hide that overkill behind a cabinet in another room to optically justify this enormous system.
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You mounted your switch with 4 screws on each bracket. I see you don’t like to live dangerously.
Be safe than sorry.
I thought that 2 how many times I have been in the dc raking equipment and one of those tiny screws disappear”sure 2 will do”🤣🤣
My budget is ask my boss if i can take stuff home that is being decommissioned. I love and hate the 3 year rule.
we have a 6 month rule
its the best i have way to much mig wire now lol
Dang we have wait till it breaks rule..
We have to wait until the company files for chapter 7.
That's how I got my servers
My budget is COMMA!!! ask my boss...
Uhh!
Finally!! A straight to the point video tutorial that shows everything needed to run a simple home network. I think i'm gonna follow your model and build my home network. Thanks for the video!!
InstaBlaster.
But did it pass the wife test? Thats the real question. XD
+Robert Hicks it has passed the wife test, from what I can tell. She has only said two things about it, "I have no idea what that is," and "it looks like mission control." I will consider that a pass.
ben johnson "mission control" lol, little do they know that's quite the compliment
+David Ferdinand yeah I thought it was cool.
give her her own wireless network and call it Wife-Fi
DUSTERDUDE238
Damn great idea
If this was Linus it would've fallen and left a hole in the wall
Mostly would of dropped it as well..
Hi
if it was linus the whole house would fall
@@AdamLazhar Lol yh
#LinusDropTips
Tip: Do not use zip ties. The sheathing on the network cable can swell and shrink based on temperature shifts which will cause the zip ties to cut into the cable. Instead spend a couple of bucks on a roll of velcro and cut strips of that to manage your cables.
It's not even that, if you ever need to redo your cable management for whatever reason, you have to cut the zip ties and risk damaging the cables then too.
Made a note of this, cheers!
@@Squirleypoozip ties are reusable. Just use a small awl to prod the tab back.
@@MatthewHauserman I don't have time for that. Velcro is reusable and just pops right off and goes right back on. Velcro was also flexible and won't cut into the cabling through thermal expansion and contraction. If you are a contractor that I hired to run cabling and you use zip ties you are redoing the job or you are not getting paid because you did not complete the job through the scope of work.
@@Squirleypoo you wouldn't be hiring me cause I would overprice it for being picky. Zip ties would not damage the cabling if you use them properly. You're not suppose to tighten them enough that they can cut into the cabling. Oh and you could try to refuse payment, I would just put a lien on your property as it wouldn't be specified how cables are secured in the scope of work and there is no code against zip ties.
I liked your setup so much that I mimicked it almost entirely. I have a few more devices that I put on some shelves in the rack as well. Thanks for the video.
Dope setup, I totally need to run some Ethernet veins in my house
I will do this in 2020.
@@CircuitkungTH its time.
4:28 you've got 110V in the same stud space as data cables. That would fail a code inspection since the 110V would induce noise in the data cables.
Ehhh, that's what shielded ethernet is for.
No, it would fail the inspection because it might come into contact with the LV cable and cause high voltage to be introduced into that system. The code doesn't care about data interference. It only cares about safety.
He also doesn't have any of the electrical wire stapled to the wall. It basically only held there by the outlet boxes.
The network cables will eventually be TERMINATED.
How did you manage to pass the "wife test"? In my experience that's the most challenging aspect - easier to build a Mars Lander.
How is this a budget home network? a budget home network is literally a single router and doesn't even require cables if you need to go wireless for everything.
95% of everything you have set up is completely optional.
+Aisha Love all valid points, a more appropriate title would be"diy sick budget network," or "diy super nerdy budget network."
Really like the video,
i always seek tech tips that are affordable and doable,
kindly continue on producing such content also let us in about the research you did.
also keep on making budget tech videos, do a budget solar panel or budget home plumbing or water system
1 tip on the punchdown panel. You need to maintain the pair twist tolerance all the way from the jacket butt to the panel itself. Very important on Cat6 and up spec cables. Each pair is twisted differently to prevent cross talk. That few inches of untwisting the pairs can drop your network speed a lot. Same goes if installing a RJ45 connector.
+Matthew Barras thanks for the tip. I tried to keep them as twisted as I could.. but it was my first time doing lots of those.
You should be fine. It will work. But if you are a lot slower than 1G. Like 600M or 700M. Just pull the wire out of the blocks. Cut off the wires and rebutt the cable jacket. You should have a max of 1/2" of wire exposed from the jacket butt after you punch down. Do not untwist the pairs. Just spread them enough to slide them in the block teeth and punch. Just a FYI colors and pairs do matter. Follow the standards. On cat 5 you could get away with "It does not matter so long they are the same on both ends of the cable". On cat 6 and up in does matter. On 10G it matters a whole bunch.
+Matthew Barras true.. this is just cat 5e and I'm getting the 1Gbps speed.. on ever line, so I guess I got it this time. Thanks for the tips.
True enough - it has been my experience that you don't run into issues until your cable length goes past 80% of the maximum standard length. Also important is keeping the wire lengths of each pair close to the same.
Having said that, I can't count how many times I have seen improper cat 5 and 6 terminations that still pass 1GB - probably because most cable runs don't get close to the maximum length. The majority of actual problems I have encountered were due to people swapping A&B standards, mislabeling cables, or badly nicking the insulation when they strip off the sheath. All of those problems should have been caught by tests which were supposed to be mandatory; instead I caught them while installing equipment and I ended up taking off the jacks and fixing them.
Matthew Barras Exactly this, you also aren't supposed to strip the wire pairs the punch down does this automatically. Yeah you can still get full speed, but you will create a ton of collisions where packets need to be resent. Also for the in wall work you don't want any wires going near power lines as they too will create a lot of EMI and interference.
If you wanted to save a little money you could've just run 1 or 2 ethernet cables to your entertainment center and then added a switch. Also, I've repurposed old routers into switches by disabling DHCP and wireless capabilities if anyone wanted to save even a little more money.
+Bman8862 those are good ideas.
Bman8862
I'd agree, Linksys or Netgear or others offer inexpensive switches ($25-$40 Gigabit). In my office sure for troubleshooting make them all home runs, but a home it's not necessary.
Ask anyone who works in enterprise networking, cascading switches.. especially in a managed environment is a fucking nightmare. I mean, I would spend the extra money just to run everything back to a central switch. But yes, you are right, good ideas to save money!
+Nicholas Smith I agree! Cascading switches is something I'm not very familiar with yet. Luckily I won't need to mess with that with my home setup.
Can I ask, why did you go with a frame rack instead of a cabinet style self contained rack? I think it would have maybe worked better in your situation?
Just finished a new build house. This and your patch panel video really helpful. I now have very similar set up plus all TV/Sat connections. Looks so neat and professional and works reliably.
Wes Cameron
Your video was helpful and I was able to completed my task and it pass the wife test.
Nice walkthrough of the install. I went through this in my house with a budget of around 500. I had a few more criteria to hit, mainly i wanted a lockable cabinet because I plan to keep a surveillance nvr in there. I did use the same switch and patch panel.
That's a marvelous job in cable management and setup. I appreciates you sharing this that way I can learn.
Nice! Just trolling looking for diy videos to link to my customers. Networking is the biggest concern for home computer enthusiasts. Cabling and associated hardware is 95% of networking which scares most folks off, not to mention the cost of a professional doing the wiring. I run a one-man computer repair/cleanup/upgrade/network business from home. I school all my customers on the benefits of a wired verses wifi network and give them a hand doing it. Most times its as simple as running a single ethernet cable from their cable/phone modem or gateway to their computer with instant improvement in service and connection latency issues. I can give lots of help for a mere 12 pack of Coronas! 😁 🍺
That did NOT age well
I've explored and watched numerous videos like yours, all in hopes for setup ideas... yours is the best by far. Thx
+Gregory Buffi thanks!
Very good looking setup. I need to do something like this, but I have just thrown mine together. And, I'm still working out the bugs. But, glad you walked-through it and had the time to do it right !!! Good job ...
One element I picked up from watching pro vids on networks is the "service loop", a loop of cable that gives you the spare length if you need to fix something. There are other choices that can be used, though they cost more money, such as Keystone connectors which need very little untwisting of the twisted pairs.
General electrical safety: keep your network cabling clear of mains power cabling. I'm in the UK, where we run at 240v, and maybe the electricians in my family made me a little over-cautious.
Some things you show would be difficult here in the UK, because of different house-construction methods. The Keystone system is available here, with connector modules for aerial and audio connections, but there is a different size standard, working in a similar way, that also gets called Keystone by some.
Again, different UK standards, but I would use a PDU that had standard UK power sockets, rather than the IEC types (which you can see on a desktop PCs PSU). It makes it easy to add a wall-wart to power something such as that wi-fi, or a PoE box, or just to provide a USB charging point for a phone.
I did this after watching this video in 2020.. Cant be happier! nice to have the whole house on wired and take the massive strain off the wifi with so many devices.
Great video, much appreciated. The music makes feel like I should sitting in a motorized chair making and making robot sounds with my mouth tho.
so overkill for what you needed...used 1/3 of the patch connectors and not even 1/4 of the switch ports lol. i assume you plan on seriously expanding your network in the future
+Jesse F yes I do plan on expanding.
Just a suggestion for others I recently found out about. They offer keystone compatible patch panels that make working on the patch panel more convenient. It also helps if a port dies because you can replace instead of just having to mark it as dead.
Nav Rack was setup upside down (top is facing down), the smaller hole on rack should face up.
Very Nice work and explanation of setup and gear.
Thanks! BTW, it's not upside down. There are little slots on the top and bottom of the screw hole.
@@BudgetNerd Awesome then on the Nav Rack.
Your home network video on budget is awesome, 10 stars!
Love the neatness. I've done a bunch of office network cable installs and here are a couple of quick notes:
1. Run the cables from the hinged side instead (to the right in the video). This allow you to punch them down, tie them up, and then rotate it back into place with the cables fully mounted.
2. That seems like a lot of metal to mess with your wifi hotspot/router's antennas. Might be better to mount it somewhere away from the rack. The other walls inside the closet, for example.
3. Cable labels are your friend. :) Maybe they're done and I'm not seeing them in the vid? I won't do any kind of install without them anymore (not even car stereo). In very big setups we will write on the cable itself before heat shrinking on something more permanent once the final length is determined.
Good points. Starting at the hinge side is a good idea, my ports would start at 24 and go down instead of 1, but could be worse.
Yeah, the WiFi hotspot seems perfectly fine. Get great reception and speed on wireless, so can't be doing much really.
Thanks for the comment.
@@BudgetNerd Meaningful names help a lot, even in smaller setups like this, so like "Living room 1 .. 4", "Master Bed", etc. Just a bit of time up front saves a bunch down the road. Much easier than having to uncover the port at the other end or having to tone out which one is which.
Why a rack system for home network, people ask.... Because we're nerds, and WE CAN! nuff said. Beautiful setup BN!
I do not see any labeling on the cables, how did you keep track of where the cables was routed from?
+Jesper Vikström I label the ports on the wall plates, which corresponds to the numbers on the patch panel. Then I just "patch" a little cable from the patch panel to any port on the switch.
Alright, thanks for the reply!
+Jesper Vikström each cable that runs through the house goes from a wall plate somewhere in the house to a position on the patch panel. Each spot on the patch panel has a number. So if the cable terminates on the patch panel position 5, I write or label the wall jack on the other end with 5. Then I run a "Ethernet patch cable" from spot 5 on the patch panel to the switch.
ben johnson very well said.
Just wondering did you label first or did you go back and check later? (I always label all cables even if just with a sharpie, when pulling. Maybe just used to it from my commercial experience.) Also, just a tip, it's easier to punch down your cables the other way. I know you said you wouldn't use the hinge, but if you run them down the side with the hinge you can have a cleaner path back to the wall, also if you ever do decide to use the hinge it'll work fine. Lastly maybe use an angle grinder/dremel/hacksaw to cut the hinge to fit just the panel so you can swing it open whenever and not have to remove the rest of the devices.
OH SHIT BOYS!!!! HE'S GOT HIS OWN SIPR DROP! looks good man, i am jealous, because i dont have the ability to run a network in my current house.
I have three questions for you:
Are you in the military?
Are you living in the barracks?
Why are you calling that a SIPR drop?
good detailed video. I do that for a living and you hit all the bases. good explanation and pictures step by step.
Very neatly done. Would have gone with a managed 16 port layer 2 switch with PoE+ capability on some of the ports though. Gotta be able to run a more central ceiling mounted AP and VLAN support is a must. Can always buy another unmanaged 16 port switch later on the cheap for expansion.
I like to create separate VLANs for my main, guest, kids networks, and a fourth VLAN for IoT devices and anything else that needs internet connectivity but has questionable security features.
Thanks for sharing.
F**KING amazing so neat and clean , love it , i give you a A++ in cable management and professional looking
Thanks!
I really enjoyed this video. It also shows people they do not have to spend thousands of dollars to create a decent network, good work!
"Wife test" LOL, obviously you never met me ;) I'm a woman who handles all of our networking in the house and buys the rackmount equipment. My husband would never meet my very fussy hardware demands when it comes to high-end networking equipment ;)
Nice but kind of overkill for a home. You run aormal 4 port switch to the different rooms then you just add more switches as needed depending on which room needs it. less complicated cable management
+Monsieur Noir perhaps, but anything worth doing, is worth over doing, I always say..
id like to do something like this myself. Very clean work, looks well organized and professional... i feel that will be my downfall (usually is, especially in PC building) where i start off strong with cable management but after several "undo's" and another hours worth of routing i get in such a rush near the finish line i just start stuffing in cables and cramming cover plates over stuff and turn the window towards the wall so nobody can see my shame. again, great looking build!
Thanks to your video I encourage myself to do the same.
The rack is upside down, you can tell by the wall mounting holes.
+Hector Monita the logo on the side is right side up.. are you sure?
Ah! you might be right, im just basing it on 4:03 in the video but we dont get to see the bottom holes, they could be upright. don't mind me, just giving my unsolicited two cents
Yeah it's upside down
+Hector Monita no worries!
If you watch around 01:53 the holes appear to have the cut outs top and bottom. I see why you have thought that from 04:00 though as it does look like the slot has been put the wrong way up. My guess would be they're made to work either way and a logo is put on after.
The joys of being single is you don't have to worry about a wife test.
That time when I envy cardboard walls. I can't easily put network through my thick stone walls =\
Cable Labeling > Cable Management - I've been in "server closets" that look like buzzard nests, but the labeling was so precise it didn't matter much.
Why not both?
Cool video. But OVERKILL at its finest.
Just missing a UPS :)
Damien LEFEVRE came here to say this. My network stack can run for many hours on a UPS and i still have connection in a blackout.
@@cjkline83 I did this because my security cameras require wifi and its great, I have a pretty small UPS as well and it ran for 8 hours the only time my power went out
One day Google will figure out THIS is what I was looking for
Official looking? "Professional"... the word you're looking for is "professional".
I think official sounded just fine.
Really useful for learning how to set up a wired home network, my fam have always managed on WiFi but with the new setup we're installing we can use ethernet and we will have a better WiFi connection. It won't be quite as good as yours but it will definitely be a massive improvement, thanks for sharing your knowledge
Never thought of doing a wall mount rack. My setup is a mess. Thanks for the video.
It would have been much simpler to use keystone jacks on everything instead of punch down. Lot easier to configure also.
2:01 "Does have a 12 inch depth, which should allow enough space for most any typical rackmounted equipment".
(Looks to left to see my Dell PowerEdge 2950 server yet to be installed, which looks *at least 3 feet long*...)
No joke! I ended up putting my 2950 on a rack shelf because my rack wasn't deep enough to mount the rails.
Even if that rack could accommodate that depth, it would never hold that much weight. I think my DL380 G7 would probably make a pancake out of it. But you wouldn't want to put a 2950 anywhere near a living space because they're so incredibly loud.
Funny you should mention that... as mine is only 15ft away from my bedroom with only two un-insulated walls between me and the jet engine Dell rebranded as a server. Which is 90% of the reason I just use it as a multi-core workhorse when I need it, and a learning playground. Still wish I could actually use the rails I have for it though =(
8 ports? You could perhaps pulled some singlemode fiber through so you can have 10+GBe for cheap.
No zip ties, use velcro....
Velcro is pretty sweet for this sort of thing for sure! I do have some where the amount of cables will change frequently. You can see it at 7:50.
great video! we are building a new house and I plan to run my cables before all the walls are complete. Just an observation. You may have mounted the rack like you did for the swing out feature, but the mounting holes appear to make it look like you hung the rack upside down. Just wondered. Great information, and wish me luck with mine. Thanks.
well done sir
I just finished my similar set up un my new house. Well the data part anyways. I have some coaxial cable I would like to find some rack equipment for and make just as nice. But this is a great start. Thank you foe showing me how to get this done.
Please for everyone's sake change the intro. But the rest of the video is good
hey I agree, I don't like that intro either.
Then dont use it?
Check out my other vids. I don't.
might be a silly question but what is the patch panel for? can't you just have everything connected to the switch?
+Fox Unit Delta check out my other video, What is a patch panel, and do you need one?"
i'll check it out, thanks
I missed my old job as a voice/data/fiber installer.
+yopparaiiii I think I would enjoy that job too :)
yopparaiiii I just asked the guy that was installing the new network at work if I could work with his.l company and ironically enough he gave me his contact info and I hope and pray I could get this job. It's something I would love to do not to mention the money is good too
This job is not for everyone, but if you know what you are getting into, it can be a lot of fun.
Wish you the best. When you do get in, practice 'Safety First'.
For sure. Thanks for the heads up.
what are you doing now.
Oddly your voice is a dead match (at least to my ears) to bitwit. You guys sound exactly the same. That being said lol. Nice setup. Love the way it looks.
just one thing ... that would never pass an electrical inspection
Why not, out of curiosity?
Power in the same studs as data is the biggest problem. The power cables will induce an AC current in the data cables.
We're moving away from punch down panels and using keystone patch panels.
Damm thats looking cool
I'm more interested in how the devices are connected, that motorola box is what takes the fiber/whatever brings your connection I would guess, then you go in the router, then the switch. or do you go isp box>switch>router
+renyn21 you got it right the first time. Copper from isp to modem > Ethernet from modem to wan port on router > Ethernet from lan port to switch.
that electrical wiring at 4:24 isn't up to code. the romex connector is stripped out of the compression slot which looks like you completely pushed out like a novice, and there are no staples securing the romex to the wall. i mean make a little effort.
Pretty fail.
do you feel good when you shit on another persons hard work? Work that has entertained you at no cost to yourself.
+CxnTrxL ARE YOU NOT ENTERTAINED!
CxnTrxL people watch things like this and think: "well that's good enough I'll do mine like that". Then they get a fire and endanger the lives of others. So yea pointing out the flaws in something potentially life threatening so nobody else does it makes me feel good. And it should make the person doing it realize what they have done is wrong and correct it. I should note that, everything else is done well. Although I recently learned that cat cables should be minimally untwisted (like 1/2 in) for optimal performance.
Wew! You are on top of things!
I'm not a fan of the decision for a patch panel. Patch panels are an added cost and serves to add 1 more layer for something to go wrong with the signal. It's much faster & cheaper to work with RJ45 connections directly to the 24-port switch. In my opinion it's also faster to troubleshooting with a cable tester. You only have to test 1 port instead of 2 in a worst case scenario for signal testing. Patch panel for a 1 switch / 1 router installation is completely unnecessary.
With each wall plate you also add a layer for signal issues or unplugged cables. I love how you tried to reduce that by going straight to the patch panel but you could have reduced it further by going straight to the switch.
I won't disagree with your decision to go with a 24 port switch. For today's residential needs it is overkill but no one expected IPV4 to be filled so quickly. Who knows how many connections a home in the future will really need. Question is as of today how many of those ports are you actually using? I'm gonna say about 8-10. Plenty of overhead.
Anyway, the patch panel is just a middle man so cut out the middle man by terminating all cables with RJ45 plugs and plug them directly into your switch.
I would have used 3x 8-port keystone wall plates instead (for a 24-port switch) instead of a pull through plate. I like that you plugged the excess hole of the pull through. I see so many of them that are open and I'm like do you want mice because this is how you get mice. Keystone wall plates are so much easier to work with, provides a highly professional look for residential, and takes the place of a patch panel. I would have placed the wall plates directly beneath the rack so cable length between the wall and switch are shorter. Also I would have installed the rack much lower on the wall as you've now commandeered a good portion of usable hanging clothes space. Wife test would have gotten a better grade with a decision to put it lower. :/
Don't get me wrong, I'm geeking out seeing your build. You've done a great job, something that most would be proud of. I'm simply saying I would have done it differently and definitely cheaper. You don't mention to your viewers that a patch panel is unnecessary if you go a different way. To the uninitiated, your build might seem daunting to them due to the patch panel.
Sorry to be so critical I hope your not offended that is not my intention. As a fellow geek and installer that's just what we do. We judge each others work and offer suggestions for improvement. Seeing the patch panel for a small home rack kind of made me twitch a bit and I felt compelled to offer my opinion and suggestions. Great build though!
+DJDevon3 you raise some good points. For sure a patch panel isn't necessary, but I wanted one. However, any money I would have saved subtracting the patch panel I would have spent on more RJ45 jacks/keystones/and wall plates as you suggested.
I am only currently using 6 of them, but I only just set it up. 24 might be overkill in most cases, but that was my goal.
For those that do not know, the patch panel could add unneeded complexity to it.. but my setup, of course, isn't for everyone. Perhaps I could also do a video talking about the patch panel and who it would be good for.. :)
Good point. Keystone plates and jacks add up quick. Since you offer this up to youtube as a budget build, I recommend putting amazon links and prices in your video description. Make it easier for people to replicate your build or look at all the components. It was one of the first things I looked for after watching the video and nothing was there. :(
I just purchased a similar switch for an install I'm doing on Monday. I'm not a fan of TP Link, I prefer Buffalo for budget builds since they have loopback protection which can come in handy for network stability, security, and troubleshooting but they are a tiny bit more expensive than TP Link. For a budget build you'd be hard pressed to find a 16+ switch cheaper than TP Link right now, good choice.
I would definitely watch if you make a video about pros/cons of a patch panel, when/where to use one. Patch panels aren't for beginners in my opinion, plenty to go wrong since each lead represents more physical connections and those connections have to be good. I think anyone doing this kind of build should also add a cable tester to their toolbox. You can find them on amazon for like $20 and they can be worth their weight in gold during a build especially for a first timer. I think that would be a great recommendation to have added with your video.
To even think of using a patch panel means you have a high level of knowledge so I congratulate you on that. I enjoyed every minute of watching your build even if I had a minor disagreement with some of it, very enjoyable. :)
Most viewers on youtube have never created their own patch cable let alone done an entire home install. For the general public I think a patch panel is the wrong thing to advise. You obviously have enough knowledge to do it which honestly is what really made for the most enjoyment. It's not everyday you see someone do a patch panel in their house. The avg viewer isn't as knowledge and it would only cause them more headache than necessary.
+DJDevon3 I've been meaning to get some links in the description, those would be good you are right.
I will be getting a pretty nice cable tester soon for a project and was contemplating doing a review on it, but yes, a good tester is very helpful. I did have to borrow one from work, from out network team to fix one port I wired wrong.
So all of this is for better wifi? sorry I'm only 13 so I don't really know but interesting video
TechnoBike HD basically kid, wifi doesn't mean Internet. Wifi is a wireless way of delivering Internet. You can deliver internet through wires as well. So imagine one of the blue wires being connected to your phone all the time. You'll never have internet issues unless they come from your Internet service provider or the modem that's accepting the connection from your ISP.
Thanks
Actually, WiFi is a way of delivering network access.
Simple Man yes - correct, was trying to simplify it as much as possible, my younger cousin thinks "wifi" is simply Internet, always refers to his wifi being faster than mine but his intention is to say his isp is quicker
Ah, I see :)
We have only lived in our house for a few years (new tract home) and forgot about our wall panel in the master bedroom closet until this covid 19 quarantine and my husband and I found ourselves with having to set up home office workstations in order to work remotely. We have a tower hardwired to modem downstairs and were using WIFI when using our phones or iPads. I need to setup up office upstairs and don’t know how to go from picture below to hardwiring docking station for my work laptop
I’m clueless and your videos have been helpful but scared I’m going to do something wrong and cost us lots of $$ to fix my mistake
Hi, Lori-An. I am in the same boat. I’ve been crawling around in the attic for days, but I have learned a lot. I think you should go for it if you have not done so already.
Your video was one of my few inspirations 2 years ago to build my home network.
Why not route the cables toward the hinge side of the patch panel?
Is that enough room for the switch to get air and cool off to not overheat?
Oh sure.. it doesn't generate much heat.
It work connect with cheap online networks. If didn't connect well with you, you know the reason WHY???
Thank you for this video, really helpful and I didn't know I needed to add protection first before just plugging in a switch.
I have a Netgear R7000 router which has a DHCP server setting turned on, so is that my security covered? Can I just add a switch and I am protected well enough from my Netgear router?
I just purchased NETGEAR 12-Port Gigabit Layer 2 Managed Switch GSM7212 ,I researched and every Techie say you have more control over your settings. it is a 2006 hope it works for my needs. should have it today! setting and waiting.
10 inches between hi voltage and low voltage network only 90 degree angles then crossing NUB!!!!
+room42 I am aware of that, and tried my best. In that small space for the TV, there were just so many wires. You can see that I tried to make the single Ethernet cable going for the future TV cross at a 90 degree angle to the power for the TV.
Ok, I'll watch this - as I will be moving soon and will need to set up network infrastructure (router, wifi-access-point, cables, network-sockets in each room etc. - well, ok: Not the bathroom, I am never going to put a computer there!) first (before all the furniture is moved in and even before I paint the walls, too because drilling holes for cables makes a mess, so I'll paint after that!)
I caution you on the TP-Link switch. This product is considered a switch for business and therefore TP-Link on the normal chat cant answer any questions. They give you a phone number to call and they give you an email address. Maybe a phone call is ok but thats a piss pore business practice in my book. No offense to Budget Nerd with this post. I like what you've done and I'm going to build one now. I will be checking Cisco and D-Link now after learning this information.
@Budget Nerd. Thanks. Nice Video. Basic question for you. How is the router connected to the switch in the final build. Initially it looks like you went straight from the router into port 1 directly from the front right into the switch. I'm a novice but can't tell how you connected the router to the switch in the final build. Thanks!
Unfortunately your power is not to code. Bummer.
It's great to have a home network, and I think it's the best thing you can do on a budget.
I do like TP Link products myself.
looks good check my channel out for daily fiber optic splicing in the field
fiber splice god
Very nicely done and seem was to do! Thanks for the ideas mate
If I only have one cat5 connection behind my tv and need more can I use a switch box at this location to give me more cat 5 plugs.
You can use a switch to get more ports, correct.
If you need to add a UPS to protect your network gear as well as to keep it running if the power fails. Which one would you use? Debating on whether I should pick a rack mountable or a regular one.
Another question: If you need PoE for IP cameras, would you shell more money and buy a PoE switch or use PoE injectors instead?
+R Rodriguez if I knew I was going to need Poe, I would have tried to start with a Poe switch.
POE Switch as Injectors can become cumbersome fast once you go over about 6.
Injectors are blocks like a pack or 2 of playing cards thick so a Switch would be better.
I have a Cisco POE 24 port for expansion but have 7 items that run POE on it now.
One of the better network/cabinet tours on youtube. Great video and nice setup. (our setup is like your before setup!) Where you say you cant swing out your patch panel, you could take a hacksaw and cut the hinge top and bottom of the patch panel so you could swing out just that section?
+Accessfm thank you. That is very kind. Yes you could in theory cut the hinge part like that around the patch panel, then yes it would swing on its own without needing to remove anything else.
Hiii. I am from India. Iam intrusted in networking because of you .but I don't know how it learn . Any course is need to learn ?if it is yes where did I get ,(like University's or any other sources? Please teach mee
THIS ALSO MAGNIFIES YOUR WIRELESS CONNECTION FROM EVERY DEVICE? SAY, TV, LAPTOP OR TABLET, AND EVEN CONSOLES, OR GAME PC'S WITH SAY WIRELESS KEYBOARD? OR DO YOU GAVE TO ADD ON WIRELESS ROUTER SIGNAL MAGNIFIERS? GREAT SET UP BY THE WAY.
Sometimes it seems to be really useful that American houses are made of wood and paper. In my house that would be impossible if I hadn’t thought about it when the house was built, which I did .
Its drywall, not paper.
Great video. I’m in the process of setting my first one up based on your design. How do you recommend mounting this rack on the wall?
Why did you decide to use a bracket wall mount over an open sided rack?
If you had to do it over again, would you use a TP-Link switch or something else?
I would recommend screwing into studs. The studs in most places in the USA are 16 inches apart. The holes on the rack should be 16" apart as well. Just line them up with the studs and it will be solid.
I went with that rack mostly just because of cost. I would have loved an open sided rack, but this one was cheap.
I haven't had a single issue with this switch actually its been great. I would totally buy it again.. unless I wanted a managed switch.. but I don't really need one.
Budget Nerd Thanks for following up.
why do you need all that man ? ive got 1 gb speeds with just the router and a 20 dollar tp link switch , what are you trying to achieve? , am i missing some point here. if you need 1gb speed most people just need to update there drivers & buy the correct cat 6 cable of ebay for a few bucks and most modems will push 1gb ... maybe im just not that smart and it flown over my hear like a 747 .
Nah.. no one has to have this setup. This is overkill for sure. The patch panel is total nerd bling and gives a professional look but not necessary, the large switch is a little overkill (read: room for expansion), and the rack just looks cool. I could do it this way, so I did. There are lots of ways to get a decent functional network in a house. This is just what I did.
Budget Nerd ok sweet man , yes looks cool and all .. thanks for the reply
One could just buy a couple of routers and mesh them together to cover every inch of their house for video streaming or just casual browsing but a wired connection is best in my opinion. Also, if you game then its a must for your PC or console.
Pass the wife is very important
Didn't say what equipment, how it works, nothing. Should be titled how I hung stuff up.
What is this? What does it do? Do you olug it into an ISPs network? Is it still limited by the ISPs speeds? Is all this rack simple a way to run multiple hardwire ethernet cords through the house
My setup is almost identical but my rack is in the basement and the wifi router is in the stairwell so its more centrally located. Port one patches my cable modem to the router's wan port and port 2 patches a lan port back into the switch where its distributed throughout the house. I even use passive gigabit POE injectors so no outlet needed near the router.
Never seen such patch panel. That saves a lot of messing around with RJ45 connectors and pliers. But i think the 8 patch points behind the entertainment set is a bit overkill. Feels to me like you are trying to hide that overkill behind a cabinet in another room to optically justify this enormous system.
No sir. Just wanted to have room for expanding. I've already expanded it since the video.
4:10 Getting rid of that open concept? Why?
Is it not cool anymore? ;-)
I think you forgot one thing. Power.
Also, can the same items work for a phone. (Cisco)
Simple and to the point. Now I understand this whole lab a bit more