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LS Engine Trick: How to make a Solid Lifter
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ธ.ค. 2017
- Here's an easy way to modify one of your old LS hydraulic lifters to make a solid lifter for checking piston-to-valve clearance and measuring for proper push rod length. And it's free!
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Wouldnt the spring compress @ base circle potentially opening the valve with a solid lifter and actual pushrod length due to pushrod already having the lifter preload measurment or does that not matter
Great Idea! I'm getting ready to measure my pushrods. THANKS!!
I love a free and easy hack. Plus it takes out the guess work in the PR measurement.
What brand lifter is that??
Pro tip: if you have a Twin Cam or M8 you need to check clearance on this is the same lifter.
You can also use a soft checker spring
Just did this process to a ls7 lifter .. way different. . Same concept but the lifter internals are way different
Interesting. I used LS7 lifters for my build but I never took one apart. I used my old LS1 lifters for that. Glad the general concept still worked for you.
New subscriber!!🔥🔥🔥
Awesome, thanks for watching!
Thank you for your help
No problem at all. Thanks for watching!
Thanks.. this is going to really help..
Awesome, glad to hear it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thank you
407ForRent happy to share!
Do I need to do this? I measured my pushrod length with a measuring tool but I never knew about this I never rotated my motor while taking measurements because the instructions say it would damage my tool so I set a stock pushrod on the lifter without the rockers on, rotated my motor till my exhaust started lifting the pushrod upwards meaning my intake was on the base. Took my measurements and called it good. Also wondering if I rotate my motor with my pushrods in, and if my plungers collapse can I prime my motor and will the oil pressure pump the plunger back up? I would assume so but I would like some feedback. Thank you.
Can it be disassembled and returned back to normal operations? or is that bottom plunger piece pretty much stuck in there?
Maybe but I wouldn't chance it. Better to just use an old lifter.
These look the same as in my 2001 Ford 302. So far I have tried 3 and I can't get the second plunger to release. I get movement when I push the center ball and use one of the hook tools, but no luck. Not sure if it is too old and wore a groove in the side that is preventing it from coming out past that certain point? Any suggestions. Thanks
hmmm, it sounds like there is still hydraulic suction keeping you from getting the plunger out. You've likely already done so, but try to soak up all the oil inside of the lifter with a paper towel. Or maybe with the center ball depressed, hold the lifter upside down and see if any oil will drain out from under the plunger. If you find something that works, definitely report back as it may helps others in the same boat!
Thanks for responding and I hope that your method works for most, as this wasn't easy for me. I tried depressing the ball with a hook tool and pulling at the same time, but didn't work at all until I got it where the plunger was about 1/16 inch out past the other part. I actually found one method that worked. Here is the video th-cam.com/video/K60NVacpB20/w-d-xo.html . I wrote back to the other video and this is my comment: "Thanks, this trick worked the best, but still have to say that it wasn't easy. I needed to create a solid set to check valve to piston clearance. To start, I had used lifters with about 70k miles on them. I'm not sure if there was a lip that was created because of the millage, but it was a S*B!. I tried various other suggestions from websites and TH-cam with no success. I tried to use a pushrod to wedge it out, not happening, using multiple types of hook tools, nada, I tried using an air compressor and a blow gun, nope, pushing the center check valve to add air and release the vacuum lock, no way. This was the only way and it fought me all the way to the end on both. The tools that I used was a 3/8 x 3 'Sleeve Anchor' like he did and you can find it in your local hardware store. It usually used as an anchor bolt in concrete. Bought a 3/8 x 6 threaded rod and a double female coupler. Many large washers in a similar way in this video. The anchor slipped out many times and I had to use an old thin rag to give it some friction between the anchor and the inner plunger of the lifter, otherwise it would slip out after the first few mm. Now I just need to figure out if I need any washers between the lower and upper plungers in the lifters. Thanks again and I hope that I don't have to do this again."
Dang, sorry to hear it was such a hassle for you but glad you found a method that worked. Thanks for sharing.
Blowing air into the oil hole on the side would’ve loosened it.
This is the style lifer i have in my 02 LM7. I went to the junkyard today to grab some as spares because I had one that was trashed. I grabbed 4 from a 4.8/5.3 block and upon taking apart to clean I noticed they had different internals in the lifter. Is there an engine generation lifter design change?
I did the same thing you did and noticed the same thing
Hay scruff could i use the converted lifter to degree a cam or does the dial gague pointer actually sit on the outer radias of the lifter?
Could you run it this way to have a solid roller lifter, would there be any benefits
No, these lifters should NOT be run this way; this is just for taking measurements. There are solid lifter/cam options available, but those are for specific applications. For the average LS street car, your best option is to stick with hydraulic lifters.
Scruf's Garage cool thanks, I've been watching all of your build videos. Thank you for the very clear instructions on everything, I will be building my ls3 pretty soon.
Thanks for watching, very glad the videos have been helpful. And good luck on your LS3 build!!
Scruf's Garage thank you sir
Was this an effective way to do this? Why does everyone say to weld them solid or jb weld them. Why wouldn't everybody do this?
Your cleaning the one part that should always be replaced in the LS..
As I mentioned in the video, you would not run the lifters this way. Making a solid lifter is simply to help you measure pushrod length and PTV clearance. When you install new lifters, they won't be "pumped up" with oil pressure yet, so you need a way to keep the lifter from collapsing when taking measurements.
Did you even watch the video? Spouting worthless comments for no reason
Can the lifters be returned back to normal hydraulic function and be run like normal in a motor or does it damage the internals