It's pretty standard to install joists on a deck flush, nail or screw. And then install the hanger afterwards. If you do hanger first your deck will be wavy as hell
can't be done any easier. Joists actually are not uniform. Some can be up to a 1/4 inch out from others. So I use the first method shown here to make a deck flush. I make them flush then attach the hangar. If you try to apply the hangar at the same time as making them flush it's a nightmare. The piece of wood for hanging them flush also temporary holds it while you put in the structural screws for the hangar so it does two jobs. It flushes the connection and holds it so your hands are free to drive the screws. @@elgringoec
@@marks6663 That's good, but time consuming. If you get your boards from the same pallet then the dimensional variations are minimized (all run through the same mill on the same setup). Of course you can't account for curves, warps, etc, other than to cull boards. They can be flat even at the ends and up and down across the center. It works for me to check the board heights real quick to see how uniform they are and find the hanger position to make the average flush, then install all the hangers with two screws on one side square. Drop in the joists then bring up the other side of the hanger while assuring the top is even then a couple screws in that side. Get both sides of each joist, check along the span, then come back and fill in all the screws. Now granted, that might take some practice to master, but it's pretty efficient and effective thereafter.
But they are real tips not just a diy idiot who discovers the actual use of a nail or how to screw a screw in the right way these are actual real world tips and hat chippys use
You can always use your finger, a screwdriver, or even push it over to the side so it's got wood to dig in to take it out. Putting a whole another screw hole into the wood is not the best option by any means
If you want to hang a joist temporarily, tap in an 8d nail an inch from end of joist, bend it over to hang off the rim joist. Then when attaching the joist, pull it out. A Very fast hanger
Even if you use joist hangers, locating the beam into position using that simple batten method is a great idea. Don't be so negative, give credit where it's due.
Joist hangers, rafter tie-downs, strapping between sheathing. Entirely unnecessary. I've framed probably over 1,000 enormous houses using them, strictly to pass code. I've also renovated 100+ year old homes without any such measure, and stick framed, no joinery involved... barely any movement on floor joists. Most codes, such as 2 nails per side of a lateral stud are extraneous (down force, sheathing nailed in 6 spots over 4 feet, so 12 nails per stud), my old boss told me you could put a single 8 penny nail and once the sheathing is on, the stud won't move for another 100 years, he's right actually, think about it. What I've found to be the biggest enemy is either foundation or weather related (i.e. poor bedrock, rotting tree roots, sloppy mix... or weather, ice creep, improper vapor barrier and even simply drastic temp changes effect how well wood stays bonded). I get that these are lame tricks for non-carpenters, and non-framers since framers RARELY carry screws... the odd builder wants their subfloor "screwed and glued". That said, I only worked with the best, we still overbuilt everything.
@@DylanBegazo Lol, I guess my recommendation would be "learn how to hold a piece of wood while you nail it", though I have to admit there have been times like solo hanging rafters, when it helps to stab a nail (much like the screwed on piece of wood) and bend it over to act as a temporary hanger. You don't need a screw gun, screws and after you nail off, your hammer is already out to quickly pop out the hanger (which bent, is super fast to pull). But really, when you improvise on the fly instead of simply copying... it trains the brain to be capable of handling unfamiliar situations, kind of the point of being a carpenter (I never called myself one, I can frame and some other stuff). So far as a loose piece of wood, you could drop a nail in the top of the gap, start nailing it "proud" of where you want it, once you've got a bite, pull out the "gap nail" and keep hitting the other until it closes the gap and is flush. Tricks like that don't have to be taught... otherwise I'd just start a crew and hire monkeys.
Should not be using screws! Use nails instead. Screws are more brittle than nails. The exterior threading results in areas of thin metal that can easily break when exposed to stress or pressure. Nails don’t have a threaded shaft, so they aren’t as brittle as screws. And in turn, they offer greater tensile strength, making them desirable for construction and carpentry applications.
@@robertwolfgan you are correct about construction screws being a “thing”, however it depends on the application. screws vs. nails, the most important factor to consider is the types of pressures that they can best withstand. Shear strength refers to the ability of a fastener or other construction element to withstand lateral, or side to side, pressures: Think of wind blowing against a house. This is where nails excel. Even if the pressure becomes extreme, they will bend rather than snap (as screws often will as they are typically made of hardened steel).
@@marleneloconte8576 screws are stronger all around? I challenge the veracity of your conclusions. First of all, what “tests” are you referring to? In tests for lateral movement (shear strength) nails are more ductile, therefore do a better job withstanding movement. Screws performed better in short term tests, however screws are more brittle and can fail quickly with repeated motion. So to sum up, there is sufficient evidence to support your claim that “screws are stronger all around”
Everyone has their opinion, I have owned Dewalt Makita and Milwaukee tools. I honestly have stuck with the Dewalt and use it almost daily. No issues with any of the others but they’ll all work for the job, just depends on preference. Some people don’t use their drills enough to buy Milwaukee tools….. I know quite a few in the trades that have switched to Milwaukee and I know a lot who have stayed trucking with Dewalt all along, have never heard to many complaints about any of the big 3. Again I have my opinion y’all have yours…. But Dewalt is just fine for me.
Milwaukee fuel is top quality, I have considered switching from makita however to change from blue to red , batteries alone would cost me over over a $1,000 My makita tool's are standing up well and I do not want multiple battery chargers, I would consider using yellow ( if I was given a paid sponsorship) love the corded saws
Pretty sure those are coated deck screws... You'd never have a 6" brass screw like the one that was driven through the 4X4 upright. In fact; any screw shown would likely twist right off in the wood if it were brass.
@@camcarb3 Yes, but if you're doing this kind of job you should have some clamps, if not then get some, they're not that expensive. Making extra holes like that will allow rot to get into the timber.
@@pauljb6207 My comment was merely satire. My humor streak is nearly as wide as my fastener collection so, while some may find it screwy, I think I nailed it.
i guess these tricks could be helpful for someone with little experience. but after gaining the experience you learn what methods and techniques best fit your style of work. as long as the end product looks good and doesn’t take an unnecessarily long time it doesn’t matter how it got done. i can’t stand working with people who are ocd and want you to do things their way and any other way is wrong. different strokes for different folks
Yeah, the floor joist tricks are cool until the inspector fails you because you don’t have joist brackets. Yes, you could put them on after, but it just seems like extra work
People talk all this nail vs screw bullsh@t, my 2 cents, old nails will easily pull out of any wood in most scenarios besides the big 16 penny nails, screws will hardly ever pull out, meaning screws hold better over time, renovated over 10 homes
That stripped screw trick is priceless!
You need hanger and structural screws
I usually stab a small flathead under the screw head so the threads have something to grab.
And he took it personally.😂
@@williamroberts5716
That's how I do it too.
Look at this- 5 tips in under a minute! Usually have to go a half hour for that.
These are all actually REALLY good from this channel for once! Really hope I can remember them when it matters…
That pocket hole trick is the one that got me. That was awesome.
The last video with the screw extraction is brilliant!!!!!
They make it look so easy, good tips
That last stripped screw was an awesome tip/hack/trick I’m definitely going to use that one!
I wish every builder out there would plumb framing with detail, the way you do.
I wish they'd use proper hangers rather than hope that a few deck screws into the end grain is going to last or hold anything
I've never in my life seen the last one, Holy hell that was awesome!
these are good tips
no doubt. hope viewers don’t mistake deck screws for proper joist fasteners
What does this mean? Can I use these screws to connect joints of furniture im making for my house?
Toe-nail screws no less
I like the spinning screw cure, one worth remembering.
It's pretty standard to install joists on a deck flush, nail or screw. And then install the hanger afterwards. If you do hanger first your deck will be wavy as hell
"will" is a strong word. It's possible to learn how to install hangers first so the joist ends up even, level, and perpendicular.
can't be done any easier. Joists actually are not uniform. Some can be up to a 1/4 inch out from others. So I use the first method shown here to make a deck flush. I make them flush then attach the hangar. If you try to apply the hangar at the same time as making them flush it's a nightmare. The piece of wood for hanging them flush also temporary holds it while you put in the structural screws for the hangar so it does two jobs. It flushes the connection and holds it so your hands are free to drive the screws. @@elgringoec
@@marks6663
That's good, but time consuming. If you get your boards from the same pallet then the dimensional variations are minimized (all run through the same mill on the same setup). Of course you can't account for curves, warps, etc, other than to cull boards. They can be flat even at the ends and up and down across the center.
It works for me to check the board heights real quick to see how uniform they are and find the hanger position to make the average flush, then install all the hangers with two screws on one side square. Drop in the joists then bring up the other side of the hanger while assuring the top is even then a couple screws in that side. Get both sides of each joist, check along the span, then come back and fill in all the screws. Now granted, that might take some practice to master, but it's pretty efficient and effective thereafter.
When he’s done with a job there’s like 20 extra holes.
Really?
So what?
that no one will ever notice
But they are real tips not just a diy idiot who discovers the actual use of a nail or how to screw a screw in the right way these are actual real world tips and hat chippys use
yeah and those holes cant be seen.
I've never seen a screw stuck that won't back out unless the top popped off.... but then again, I don't keep running the drill after the screw is set.
There's still time!
You can always use your finger, a screwdriver, or even push it over to the side so it's got wood to dig in to take it out. Putting a whole another screw hole into the wood is not the best option by any means
Fantastic, I especially like 1&2, you use common sense but you have found easier ways around things.
😮thank you thank you!! This is great!!
Of all the tip videos on the internet, this is definitely one of them. J/K, these are actually pretty good.
If you want to hang a joist temporarily, tap in an 8d nail an inch from end of joist, bend it over to hang off the rim joist. Then when attaching the joist, pull it out. A Very fast hanger
Why i never think of this..thnks for sharing
Talk about doing things the hard way!
Nice to know all the tricks to the job!!!
Ever heard of joist hangers, this is where building inspectors and permits are good they protect the home owner from himself.
Hangers are the way to go
Even if you use joist hangers, locating the beam into position using that simple batten method is a great idea. Don't be so negative, give credit where it's due.
Joist hangers, rafter tie-downs, strapping between sheathing. Entirely unnecessary. I've framed probably over 1,000 enormous houses using them, strictly to pass code. I've also renovated 100+ year old homes without any such measure, and stick framed, no joinery involved... barely any movement on floor joists.
Most codes, such as 2 nails per side of a lateral stud are extraneous (down force, sheathing nailed in 6 spots over 4 feet, so 12 nails per stud), my old boss told me you could put a single 8 penny nail and once the sheathing is on, the stud won't move for another 100 years, he's right actually, think about it.
What I've found to be the biggest enemy is either foundation or weather related (i.e. poor bedrock, rotting tree roots, sloppy mix... or weather, ice creep, improper vapor barrier and even simply drastic temp changes effect how well wood stays bonded).
I get that these are lame tricks for non-carpenters, and non-framers since framers RARELY carry screws... the odd builder wants their subfloor "screwed and glued". That said, I only worked with the best, we still overbuilt everything.
@@Mike_H76what’s your recommendation then? Non-lame tricks.
@@DylanBegazo
Lol, I guess my recommendation would be "learn how to hold a piece of wood while you nail it", though I have to admit there have been times like solo hanging rafters, when it helps to stab a nail (much like the screwed on piece of wood) and bend it over to act as a temporary hanger. You don't need a screw gun, screws and after you nail off, your hammer is already out to quickly pop out the hanger (which bent, is super fast to pull).
But really, when you improvise on the fly instead of simply copying... it trains the brain to be capable of handling unfamiliar situations, kind of the point of being a carpenter (I never called myself one, I can frame and some other stuff). So far as a loose piece of wood, you could drop a nail in the top of the gap, start nailing it "proud" of where you want it, once you've got a bite, pull out the "gap nail" and keep hitting the other until it closes the gap and is flush. Tricks like that don't have to be taught... otherwise I'd just start a crew and hire monkeys.
Brilliant tips 👍🏻
I like the tip for hanging a floor joist crooked.
Stop it, get some help.
Love this Clip! Thx.
Is just amazing learning all those little tricks 👍👍👍👍👍🌹
Damn these are seriously brilliant
Great idea thank you for sharing
you're absolutely a true human being!
thats some good shit , no talking just straight to the business pointers i like it son
Why do I always see these fantastic ideas when it's too late.
Just in time for your next project 😂
Good ol structural screws. Glad they put hangers..
Should not be using screws! Use nails instead. Screws are more brittle than nails. The exterior threading results in areas of thin metal that can easily break when exposed to stress or pressure. Nails don’t have a threaded shaft, so they aren’t as brittle as screws. And in turn, they offer greater tensile strength, making them desirable for construction and carpentry applications.
Yes it's called sheer rating, 16 penny nails have high sheer rating, screws , not so much
I thought construction screws were a thing though
@@robertwolfgan you are correct about construction screws being a “thing”, however it depends on the application. screws vs. nails, the most important factor to consider is the types of pressures that they can best withstand.
Shear strength refers to the ability of a fastener or other construction element to withstand lateral, or side to side, pressures: Think of wind blowing against a house. This is where nails excel. Even if the pressure becomes extreme, they will bend rather than snap (as screws often will as they are typically made of hardened steel).
@@marleneloconte8576 screws are stronger all around? I challenge the veracity of your conclusions. First of all, what “tests” are you referring to? In tests for lateral movement (shear strength) nails are more ductile, therefore do a better job withstanding movement. Screws performed better in short term tests, however screws are more brittle and can fail quickly with repeated motion. So to sum up, there is sufficient evidence to support your claim that “screws are stronger all around”
You sound like the engineer who knows it all, but can't do any of the actual work lmao
I'm deliberately going to give myself a few woodwork problem, just so I can try any of these tips. Brilliant 👏🏾
Six months later the first sheet of decking is installed.
I hope everyone seen the impact he was using. The best hands down
You’re cute. Milwaukee fuel > makita
Everyone has their opinion, I have owned Dewalt Makita and Milwaukee tools. I honestly have stuck with the Dewalt and use it almost daily. No issues with any of the others but they’ll all work for the job, just depends on preference. Some people don’t use their drills enough to buy Milwaukee tools….. I know quite a few in the trades that have switched to Milwaukee and I know a lot who have stayed trucking with Dewalt all along, have never heard to many complaints about any of the big 3. Again I have my opinion y’all have yours…. But Dewalt is just fine for me.
Milwaukee fuel is top quality, I have considered switching from makita however to change from blue to red , batteries alone would cost me over over a $1,000
My makita tool's are standing up well and I do not want multiple battery chargers, I would consider using yellow ( if I was given a paid sponsorship) love the corded saws
Great tips ! Thanks !
This a bad man he knows what hes doing !
I enjoyed the part with the screw and hammer “trick” with a giant screw through a 4x4….instead of a simple toe nail
Good tips, thank you.
❤❤❤❤❤ gracias amigo dios t bendiga ❤❤
Pretty sure "This Old House" was meant as satire, NOT a learning aid.
Great ideas. Unfortunately brass screws are no good outdoor wood applications.
Pretty sure those are coated deck screws... You'd never have a 6" brass screw like the one that was driven through the 4X4 upright. In fact; any screw shown would likely twist right off in the wood if it were brass.
Bro!! That last tip ❤
the last bit blew my mind lol a screw to take out the screw
wish I had seen this before renovating my dock
great tips
Oh lord! There’s one stuff called joist hanger bracket which is specifically designed for connecting deck joist.
I might be wrong but it seems like 16 penny nails are much better for sheer... Decking screws are ok for the actual flooring of the deck.
The first one does not need to be screwed on, you can just use a clamp or two.
But, the demonstrator has only screws, clearly.
@@camcarb3 Yes, but if you're doing this kind of job you should have some clamps, if not then get some, they're not that expensive. Making extra holes like that will allow rot to get into the timber.
@@pauljb6207 My comment was merely satire. My humor streak is nearly as wide as my fastener collection so, while some may find it screwy, I think I nailed it.
an even better way to get your joists aligned properly is to use joist hangers.
3 dollar screw in the 6x6!
Smartguy😊
Good skill❤
Perfecto
Is wood required or that’s optional?
So cool!
Very good
My old man taught me some of these tricks when I was young.
I’m no expert but those construction screws instead of joist hangers and Simpson strong tie screws I don’t know.
Huge help! Thanks for sharing!
Framing with 1½ interior screws, nice
Few screws are rated for shear strength. These aren’t them.
Yep, and don't forget the handy clamp.
Very clever tips.
Love it
I’m pretty sure screws aren’t structural grade I’d use nails they can flex screws just snap
carpenter tip: Stop using screws for every damn thing. Nails have a purpose and the hammer won't kill you
Screws are easier to get out and Easier to put in.
@@DareToBeatbox learn how to use a hammer.
@@mattberg916 learn how to use what’s best for the job. When building a deck, screws are better for everything.
@@DareToBeatbox agreed.
Was always taught not to screw external
Timbers as screws snap when the timber swells
The most important things you will learn in the trades are the little tricks.
How dare you, use the word carpenter in the title. Sir
How dare you refer to this man as sir. Sir.
@@plainandsimple1 How dare you you. How dare me sir.
How dare both of you for how daring eachother
How dare I love you all Sirs.
@@thomaseffertz2235 I double dog dare you to dare him to infinity and beyond sir. Good day
I hope they carry wood filler because they leave a lot of holes 😆
THAT LAST ONE IS CROOKED.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
It’s not the tool my friend it’s how you use it.
This person knows how to use their tools. And mind.
Thanks for showing the basics.
Yes thank you
i guess these tricks could be helpful for someone with little experience. but after gaining the experience you learn what methods and techniques best fit your style of work. as long as the end product looks good and doesn’t take an unnecessarily long time it doesn’t matter how it got done. i can’t stand working with people who are ocd and want you to do things their way and any other way is wrong. different strokes for different folks
The first "trick" could easily be remedied with a joist hanger.. the thing you're supposed to use anyway
Nice trick! Although you should probably use nails to fix it, as the screws have no shear strength and could snap
Is that an 18 or 24v Makita? Time to upgrade my 12v.
Drywall screws to build a deck must be made in China 🤣🤣🤣
Not the right screws, but also not drywall
All those holes for the rain n damp to attack the wood
Second, third and last.. the others are questioning.
Good
The screw / hammer as a lever trick is on every one of these videos
Love the carpenter vids. Awesome
Yeah, the floor joist tricks are cool until the inspector fails you because you don’t have joist brackets. Yes, you could put them on after, but it just seems like extra work
What about joist hangers?
Right?!? I'm not an expert by no means, but I definitely would use joist hangers.
Hangers are for clothes
This guy is a big gangster!
직각으로 작업하는거 어려웠는데 보여주신
영상보고 난중에 목공할때 참고해야겠네요
피스 헛도는거랑 저런경우낭패인데
잘보고가요
I really don’t understand chief, like, just hold the fuggin piece of wood, it’s not like these are really all that heavy
What happens when or if the members are larger?
12ft pressure treated 2x12 isn’t heavy? Please!
All you do is tap a nail halfway in at the end of the joist and fold it over and the joist will hold on the ledger
16 penny nails will hold bud
When setting a heavy framing member, that is too large for this trick, the hanger should already be in position.
this is his first deck for sure lol
Tips of what not to do. Now water can get in and rott out the boards faster unless you want to spend extra time sealing the holes up.
Big brain❤❤
I like this guy. work on my home anytime.....,
oh, wait, I rent.
Lady and gentleman…. Let me introduce to leverage!
Good stuff man
So many experts
I only use torque bits but work alone and use some of these and some times you have to
Well done
People talk all this nail vs screw bullsh@t, my 2 cents, old nails will easily pull out of any wood in most scenarios besides the big 16 penny nails, screws will hardly ever pull out, meaning screws hold better over time, renovated over 10 homes