I've used a high voltage capacitor to "blast" off any shorts. A few microfarads at 100 to 200 volts seems to work. If you have a short from the heater to one of the other pins, I cut the traces to the heater and wind my own isolation transformer (few turns on a ferrite toroid). If the filament is old and loosing emission, add a turn or two on the secondary to boost the filament voltage a tiny bit.
Have you ever tried reflowing the solder in the CRT pins? Sometimes you can get a cold solder joint that makes you think the gun is open like this video.
Back in the days I built a rejuvenator based on this and it worked like a charm. Saved a bunch of CRTs with it! The only difference was in the heater supply circuit as it was adjustable from 0 to 7V or 0 to 12v depending on the CRT type. Intersting enough , when I encountered this kind of 'dead cathode' I usually brung it back to life by variating the filament voltage with the cathode energized , and most of the times the miracle occured when raising up the filament voltage then allow it to cool down a bit and repeat this few times until a cathode current appeared.If it doesnt burn a hole through the cathode :-) but well if the filament or cathode went open circuit you can call it dead...
Yo by any chance is there a way I can reach out to you in DM like telegram or Reddit? I would really like to have your guidance in being able to build this device because I am facing the cathode issue.
It's pretty simple. 6V AC from the transformer go to the filament. Then the 120/240V AC connect in series with an incandescent bulb and any cathode and G1. Since you want the current to pass through K and G1 to remove some of the cathode (K) surface that has become an insulator. And yes, you can use a 10K resistor for the ground cathode test.
@@GoldSrc_ how do i connect filament. Where is it, I can't see. What is actually G1? When you connect 6v transformer into 110v ac it actually gives 6v alternating current on the output?
@@Columbariusify You have to make sure you desolder the cathode pins, or follow the trace to a resistor and then lift one leg of the resistor. Then, you do the same for another cathode and connect the resistor that goes to the red cathode, to the blue cathode instead. To find G1 and make sure is G1, you can google the tube serial number and it should give you results for the pinout for the 3 cathodes, the filament and G1 and G2, but you only really need G1. The 6V AC from the output of the transformer, that goes to the filament, don't use more than 6V or you could blow the filament.
Hmm, I have a 29 inch Sony trinitron, The green colour suddenly was lost. I opened the cover and I downloaded the service manual so i directed myself to the pcb that connects back to the tube electron gun. At first I thought it would be a problem with the transistors on the pcb but then I noticed that inside the tube behind the electron gun there are three heaters that glow in line representing probably the RGB, i saw in the service manual that they are connected in parallel. One of the heater in the middle didn't glow even when i applied 6 volts directly by removing the pcb and placing probs. So do you thing the heater is broken?
thats a crazy ass wall outlet. looks spacey, also what if you started upping your cathode voltage? like running a variac on a 500w halogen light bulb transformer.
Picture stays the same no matter how long it is on. I didnt try adjusting anything else other than the Focus yet. I definitely think I am going to check the focus divider and the focus pin. Thanks for the advice. Hopefully the ol tube is still ok, though being that it was an arcade game, I'm sure it has many many hours on it.
Hi, nice video, can u upload a scheme for this homemade rejuvenator. I have a sony pvm 14n6e and i think it have a little worn out catode's, not to much, but when u play game's that have some contrasty sceen's the image is curving to outside of the screen.
The sony televicsion uses a trinitron the trinitrons can't be rejuvenated i don't now why but i have heard that you can't rejuvenate those kinds of crt
good video 133MHzz, I have a JVC CRT from the 80's that's starting to fall first the sound would start to go after the TV was on for a half hour and now when on cable when you go between ch 50 - 60 you get no picture but sound, I know I won't be able to fix it but I was wondering if you had any idea whats casing the problems.
I have the opposite problem. A 1990 era 32" Toshiba that I paid 2k for new, still works like the day I brought it home. Pain in the ass. I never thought I would swear at a piece of gear for working. I don't use it anymore but I can't throw it out.
@@johncarnege I found it a forever home a couple years ago. I don't know which side of the Rainbow Bridge it resides on today. I would like to visit a forum community that still worships the tube.
Hi there and good day. I enjoyed watching this video and sure it is a bit old but I am facing a similar problem with my CRT and I am having some trouble in making this build. Is there a way I can reach out to you directly either by email or other instant messaging app to follow you step by step? Thanks
133MHZZ, Is the CRT rejuevenator adding and injecting more Electrons into the RGB ray gun? What is the CRT rejuevenator doing to the monitors neck circuit board and tube?
Another great vid. I almost want to dig up one of my older TV's to see if they could benefit from trying this hehe. On a side note any advice on a slightly blurry arcade monitor? Its bright and the colors are perfect, but even with focus all the way up its still a bit too blurry. Just wondering if it needs a new cap kit, flyback, or something else hah.
wow i never think of this, nice trick. so you can't do it with 120v, it only works with 240v? i don't have any crt to try it but maybe in the future. i'm subbed and waiting for more videos.
The whole Picture is Bad. not only the Colors. I know that the Pictures i see are Different between Camera and real but it is a bad Picture at all, i think a bad Tube. (CRT)
+e5frog IF you know your way around a CRT set you don't need a schematic to do this, then again you should use a proper CRT tester also. I used to work on CRT sets back when it made sense to, Today it's all LED and LCD sets and monitors.
+ElfNet Gaming I'm poor and also lazy, it would be nice to have the proper way explained in printable form. I have fixed a few CRT:s, swapped flybacks, caps and so on, never had to this procedure but it may come in handy some day, long after I can find my way back here...
e5frog Well today its no longer worth it to repair a CRT set unless your into restoration and even then you have to ask yourself "Will this thing sell to a collector or sit around wasting space?" I know people who restore old radios and TV and they have a home full of the things, all working but NONE of them move because no one wants them, not even collectors unless your giving them away.
+ElfNet Gaming I mostly do Commodore monitors, they hold a special place in people's heart and are not hard to sell once serviced. Eventually they'll have poor image as well. I can figure it out for myself from the movie and write it down, put it in the repair folder. Nice of you to share this great tip.
OLED is garbage... especially for video games. Go with a DLP 720p model, most of them have scalers that do an awesome job at showing 240p or 480i. Or you can blow the wallet on a Sony PVM or BVM screen with RGB ;) Your old consoles will thank you!
i wonder if one of the electrodes in the CRT has gone open circuit
I've used a high voltage capacitor to "blast" off any shorts. A few microfarads at 100 to 200 volts seems to work. If you have a short from the heater to one of the other pins, I cut the traces to the heater and wind my own isolation transformer (few turns on a ferrite toroid). If the filament is old and loosing emission, add a turn or two on the secondary to boost the filament voltage a tiny bit.
Have you ever tried reflowing the solder in the CRT pins? Sometimes you can get a cold solder joint that makes you think the gun is open like this video.
He was doing his rejunvenation rig directly on the pins of the neck via wire clips. It's not an issue with the neckboard/soldering on the neckboard.
Back in the days I built a rejuvenator based on this and it worked like a charm. Saved a bunch of CRTs with it! The only difference was in the heater supply circuit as it was adjustable from 0 to 7V or 0 to 12v depending on the CRT type. Intersting enough , when I encountered this kind of 'dead cathode' I usually brung it back to life by variating the filament voltage with the cathode energized , and most of the times the miracle occured when raising up the filament voltage then allow it to cool down a bit and repeat this few times until a cathode current appeared.If it doesnt burn a hole through the cathode :-) but well if the filament or cathode went open circuit you can call it dead...
Yo by any chance is there a way I can reach out to you in DM like telegram or Reddit? I would really like to have your guidance in being able to build this device because I am facing the cathode issue.
8:16 it's 10k resistor?
12:19 connection can you show it schematic?
It's pretty simple.
6V AC from the transformer go to the filament.
Then the 120/240V AC connect in series with an incandescent bulb and any cathode and G1.
Since you want the current to pass through K and G1 to remove some of the cathode (K) surface that has become an insulator.
And yes, you can use a 10K resistor for the ground cathode test.
@@GoldSrc_ is there a video how to interconnect color amplifier with cathode that isnt working? As je mentioned on 9:11
@@GoldSrc_ how do i connect filament. Where is it, I can't see. What is actually G1?
When you connect 6v transformer into 110v ac it actually gives 6v alternating current on the output?
@@Columbariusify You have to make sure you desolder the cathode pins, or follow the trace to a resistor and then lift one leg of the resistor.
Then, you do the same for another cathode and connect the resistor that goes to the red cathode, to the blue cathode instead.
To find G1 and make sure is G1, you can google the tube serial number and it should give you results for the pinout for the 3 cathodes, the filament and G1 and G2, but you only really need G1.
The 6V AC from the output of the transformer, that goes to the filament, don't use more than 6V or you could blow the filament.
@@GoldSrc_ thanks
Hmm, I have a 29 inch Sony trinitron, The green colour suddenly was lost. I opened the cover and I downloaded the service manual so i directed myself to the pcb that connects back to the tube electron gun. At first I thought it would be a problem with the transistors on the pcb but then I noticed that inside the tube behind the electron gun there are three heaters that glow in line representing probably the RGB, i saw in the service manual that they are connected in parallel. One of the heater in the middle didn't glow even when i applied 6 volts directly by removing the pcb and placing probs. So do you thing the heater is broken?
thats a crazy ass wall outlet. looks spacey, also what if you started upping your cathode voltage? like running a variac on a 500w halogen light bulb transformer.
Picture stays the same no matter how long it is on. I didnt try adjusting anything else other than the Focus yet. I definitely think I am going to check the focus divider and the focus pin. Thanks for the advice. Hopefully the ol tube is still ok, though being that it was an arcade game, I'm sure it has many many hours on it.
I have a set with a weak CRT, seems like excellent candidate to try out rejuvenation on it :)
What was that at 0:13? God Bless
Hi, nice video, can u upload a scheme for this homemade rejuvenator. I have a sony pvm 14n6e and i think it have a little worn out catode's, not to much, but when u play game's that have some contrasty sceen's the image is curving to outside of the screen.
The sony televicsion uses a trinitron the trinitrons can't be rejuvenated i don't now why but i have heard that you can't rejuvenate those kinds of crt
good video 133MHzz, I have a JVC CRT from the 80's that's starting to fall first the sound would start to go after the TV was on for a half hour and now when on cable when you go between ch 50 - 60 you get no picture but sound, I know I won't be able to fix it but I was wondering if you had any idea whats casing the problems.
Probably bad solder joints.
I have the opposite problem. A 1990 era 32" Toshiba that I paid 2k for new, still works like the day I brought it home. Pain in the ass. I never thought I would swear at a piece of gear for working. I don't use it anymore but I can't throw it out.
A Toshiba is worth a holy grail. Keep that Tv while you can. Or sell it as an arcade monitor tube.
@@johncarnege I found it a forever home a couple years ago. I don't know which side of the Rainbow Bridge it resides on today. I would like to visit a forum community that still worships the tube.
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind Arcade builders do here. They literally would kill for this tube.
Thanks for sharing this technique with us. :)
I'm thinking to do that too, but what type of jobs can you get in electronics beside repairs?
Hi there and good day. I enjoyed watching this video and sure it is a bit old but I am facing a similar problem with my CRT and I am having some trouble in making this build. Is there a way I can reach out to you directly either by email or other instant messaging app to follow you step by step? Thanks
133MHZZ, Is the CRT rejuevenator adding and injecting more Electrons into the RGB ray gun?
What is the CRT rejuevenator doing to the monitors neck circuit board and tube?
I like your videos. Where did you learn so much about electronics?
Clever trick if I get a bad crt I'll try it :-)
Another great vid. I almost want to dig up one of my older TV's to see if they could benefit from trying this hehe. On a side note any advice on a slightly blurry arcade monitor? Its bright and the colors are perfect, but even with focus all the way up its still a bit too blurry. Just wondering if it needs a new cap kit, flyback, or something else hah.
thank you for replying.
Try weld electrode on a good quality unit. Maybe open connection.
Interesting vid, thanks for sharing.
10-1, Heater/Filament of Green gun is O/C, No heater--no emission....
wow i never think of this, nice trick.
so you can't do it with 120v, it only works with 240v?
i don't have any crt to try it but maybe in the future.
i'm subbed and waiting for more videos.
Dead green cathode? Must have watched a lot of sports on this TV!
schematics??
great trick, thanks for your videos!
so it just a hobby to you? Or you do that as a living?
when its dead... its dead
Buen video bro, lastima que no se inglés XD 😅
Great video, a shame it didn't work
I was willing you on. Never mind.
The whole Picture is Bad. not only the Colors. I know that the Pictures i see are Different between Camera and real but it is a bad Picture at all, i think a bad Tube. (CRT)
A lot of blah blah blah yes... would have been nice to see a schematic image of the hookup, something to print out for when possibly trying it.
+e5frog IF you know your way around a CRT set you don't need a schematic to do this, then again you should use a proper CRT tester also. I used to work on CRT sets back when it made sense to, Today it's all LED and LCD sets and monitors.
+ElfNet Gaming I'm poor and also lazy, it would be nice to have the proper way explained in printable form. I have fixed a few CRT:s, swapped flybacks, caps and so on, never had to this procedure but it may come in handy some day, long after I can find my way back here...
e5frog Well today its no longer worth it to repair a CRT set unless your into restoration and even then you have to ask yourself "Will this thing sell to a collector or sit around wasting space?" I know people who restore old radios and TV and they have a home full of the things, all working but NONE of them move because no one wants them, not even collectors unless your giving them away.
+ElfNet Gaming I mostly do Commodore monitors, they hold a special place in people's heart and are not hard to sell once serviced. Eventually they'll have poor image as well.
I can figure it out for myself from the movie and write it down, put it in the repair folder.
Nice of you to share this great tip.
Nice but too much blah blah blah 19 min too long. Get straight to the point
Roberto Crespo Try to make your own video then!
Throw away this piece of ahit and get a OLED screen
OLED is garbage... especially for video games. Go with a DLP 720p model, most of them have scalers that do an awesome job at showing 240p or 480i. Or you can blow the wallet on a Sony PVM or BVM screen with RGB ;) Your old consoles will thank you!
or just pick up a good crt off the side of the road. i scored me a 36" trinitron in 2014 and i could never go back to my plasma.