In Sweden we use something called nail expander (english translation). We always put the sill or the whole premade wall on flat concrete slab and attache with these nails. 8mm hammerdrill hole throuh the timber and into the concrete, 110mm deep. Super fast, easy to hammer them in, nothing pointing up, strong as hell. Look like this verktygsboden.se/20.0.0.4/45426/cache/45426_d54d93cbc29ab3e3b69bd581ce782bb5.jpg Do you use them also in the US?
You might sound more convincing if you didn't contradict your self? You say that J Bolts and Wedge Bolts are comparable in strength then say that you have never seen WB pull out but JB will. By definition then WB must be stronger than JB? However at the end of the day as long as they get a Guarantee with your work then would any problems sorted. How ever I do agree with your other point that drilling holes with wood in place has to be quicker and easier.
I just did a pour for my slab house using only foam as the outside forms. No wood forms, no metal or wooden steaks. Using my mini excavator, digging trench around outside. Lay 2' foam flat on the bottom and 2' vertical. This gives you 4'of frost protection, (that's required here in Wisconsin ). Using string to set the vertical foam to the size needed. But leave string line up for the pour, you can easily adjust the foam when the concrete is being poured. This way don't need to go back and do the foam after and don't need to bring form boards, nothing at all. Really works great and super fast!
Well done, Jesse! Start to finish, you went through all the details very well and it was very informative. The J bolt issue makes total sense to me and you did a great job explaining your reasoning. It was pretty cool to watch the season changing as you worked and the shout outs to Dirt Boss and Mike Day were really thoughtful. Thanks for all the hard work putting this together.
I need to make some new floors around the house in Chiang Mai Northern Thailand. Good to see how to build these to the highest standard, now I can take the 3 standards that matter to me Thai, US and Australian and make sure we meet or exceed all 3 - thanks Andrew.
Thanks for this. I'm pouring two 16 x 28 foot pads at either end of my garage to extend my garage from 36 x 28 to 72' x 28. Therefore this was useful to see. Your dozer would have been useful for that one corner, but the extra trip would probably slowed you down. Thanks for the video.
OK, dude....I was critical of one of your previews videos and you responded pretty kindly, so I stuck around. I am about 10 minutes in and this is frigging AWESOME! I really hope this kind of pace keep up through this video. You added the music, but sparingly. I'm excited for the next hour!
Jesse, those are control joints to keep cracking in the joint... expansion joints use the asphalted felt to control expansion. Expansion joints are typically used in this application where the apron meets the slab or similar instance.
To square up the building with all string lines out just measure the diagonals of the whole building. The 3,4,5 method is good, but measuring the diagonal is a more accurate square up as well.
yes we always definitely check the diagonals, sometimes I use an app on my phone to get the diagonals, but the 345 is a good method to begin squaring things up, the diagonal finalizes it
This was super informative and also totally convinces me to find a qualified concrete company in my area. I don't have the experiance, tools or back to do concrete work.
Great stuff Jesse! I could watch this stuff all day. I’m sure you’re thankful you get to work in the great outdoors, most of us are stuck in a building or office all day.
High wind areas I would much rather use J Bolts. Wedge Anchors are not as effective and in many areas they won't pass code. You did a FANTASTIC JOB, VERY IMPRESSIVE JOB‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Great video . I could never do work like that . Heck I don't even know how to use that lazer level . Looks like someone has a few Jamaica Cottage buildings and just bought a big building .
I use a²+b²=c² formula to make 90° corners. mostly 6²+8²=10²(Pythagoras theoram ). mark 1 string line at 6meters from the corner & other line at 8 meters, now start measuring from either 6m mark to 8m mark(or 8m to 6m), wherever 8m & 10m connects mark the point, set up a rebar piece put a string line on it & you got your 90° corner.( meters in bigger projects & foots in small projects)
Nice job. I think the wedge anchor decision makes more sense too. Drill them in place, where ever you want/need them...I like your content. More please!! 😊
I think that is one of the only driver's I have seen that worked with the crew to make it easier. It seems that most of the time they are trying to blow out the forms and get the truck empty as soon as possible to get to another load. Also, when I become king of the world I am making all concrete trucks front loaders.
I have a very similar project coming up in the Spring and I learned a lot, Jesse. Very informative. Great editing with your video. I love the cutting shots (multiple angles) and those drone scenery shots cut in. Awesome as always, Jesse! Thank you very much.
Many chose a tighter pack with fines with no room for water because the less water in the compaction, the less water to freeze and expand. With larger rock, there is more space for water and that water expands by 10% when it freezes. If the base can hold 10% water, it can freeze and expand 1%. If it can hold 25% water between larger rock, it can freeze and expand 2.5% Any extra strength from J-bolts is over-kill. Wedge anchors or screw in concrete bolts have plenty of strength. Much easier to get a smooth surface for bottom plates without J-bolts. Concrete is plenty strong at 7 days. If the customer wants quick access, use higher grade concrete. The added cost to use higher grade concrete is often worth it to get crews working a week or 2 earlier.
We use 1/2" x 7" wedge anchors same as you AND if we don't do the slab and the previous person put "J" bolts in.....We cut them off, drill and use wedge anchors. The towns will accept Simpson STB2-50700 anchors. It is so much easier and faster with wedge anchors and we have never had a problem in 20yrs.
yea , I am going actually put some tapcons in this slab in a few days, they are actually a little faster even yet. Its nice to stand up the wall and slide it over
If a Structural engineer oversaw this, it would need F6 Rio and Rio chairs at 1/3 the top pour thickness and integrated channels @ 2.4M with F10 deformed bar and F8 trench mesh. The last time I saw mesh sitting on the ground with concrete poured over was in China on a road project when the engineer was away. :)
Agreed. I'm consistently amazed that almost all of the slabs that are on YT in the USA do not support the reinforcing steel with bar chairs or anything else, despite the well-documented evidence against their poor practice of pulling up steel while pouring. And most have never seen a decent aluminium Master Finish screed, using lengths of timber instead, doing what they call 'kick screeding' and then trying to level wavy, humpy concrete with a bullfloat or chopper. As for the amount of extra hard yakka they do, with all those slider boards and 'jitterbugs' and other gadgets, wages must be incredibly low for the concretors to spend so much extra work and unnecessary time on slabs.
@@jmuller86 I was goin to ask you why you didn't put J bolts but you explained it, building codes in California is crazy, no way they pass that great job of yours here, with all the earthquake building codes we have nevertheless still clean work,good job.
@@georgezgreek yea I can imagine something like that there, I did quite a bit of research on it and as long as you dont put the wedge anchor too close to the edge its strong enough for a non-seismic or high wind area
Always power trowel the opposite way you rod. Your form could use work. When using power trowel on bottom go right . Go left on top to wipe out your line from bottom pass.
I started to go opposite but then had some areas that needed attention sooner so I got side tracked. I dont do these slabs every day, I usually average more foundation wall work in a year than flatwork. but I am doing another one right now 30x40 so I will put more detail in the finish on this one. thanks for the tips
Nice! It looks good! Ya I'm opposite we pour walls mostly to get in on the rest of the project. Were always playing with the mix to try to reduce air pockets. Good luck with the next one💪
1.08:46 Buddy the foreman decided to stroll right across the top in order to check your work for proper denseness. Great job to the 4 legged site inspector LOL!!!
Jesse in your digging with your excavations have you ever dig up any thing unusual just wondering because I have hammers and all kind of old faction tool and things just wondering if you have
Would it be possible to attach the beeping height measuring stick directly to the front pusher of the digger so that you can get a better sense at what hight the gravel should be?
Nice work! I'm not contractor, but I enjoyed your process & can understand your rational for particular processes. Thanks for video! P.S. Can EASILY & READILY see vast improvement in quality of your videos! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽Nice! 😎
The English car hiding was either a Morris Oxford or an Austin Cambridge. They were the same shape and made by the same car company (BMC) but different interiors I thunk.
Jesse time to buy some acres divide it up make some lots and sell it off. You can do that !!!!! Do all the civil work add water septic road even slap if needed etc at a reduced rate.
wish you would have shown the rest of the slab prep: rebar, mesh, foamboard. footage of placing concrete is appreciated though. how do you price this type of install? have you ever used an EPS form for forming the perimeter or would you consider using it? music? overall, nice editing and well placed comments throughout.
J Bolts all the way. also I would make sure not to use pea gavel it does not compact down. you walk on it and shifts use sand or crushed rock. I like the fact living were I do we have a lot of basalt flows and we use that as crushed rock. compact that and it is like concrete or asphalt. then you pour your slab like every on here has said use rebar #4 that is half inch and use the nylon reenforced cement and your slab will last for ever!
Excellent job squaring up the shape with the ‘3-4-5’method (or multiples thereof). So many people try measuring diagonals until like numbers are achieved and assume they are square, but that is a fallible method. A²+B²=C² (edit/add) I agree with you on the wedge anchors vs j-bolts. You might also try the LDT anchors (large diameter tapcons). They’re even easier to use and you can back them out and move them if needed. The only thing I differ with you on is the amount of time needed to wait before building the walls. Actually you only need to wait as long as it takes to not put footprints in the slab (immediately). We used to pour a slab in the morning and in the afternoon we could pour some of the columns and shear walls for the next floor. And no high-early strength concrete was necessary. Very nice job you guys did there and it was cool to hear you give a shout-out to Mike Day. The guy really knows his concrete. 🤜🤛
thanks, and yea I did put a comment up about the tapcons but when I edited a part out it left that comment up for only like 2 seconds. I actually think tapcons are a better choice myself, what I was really trying to get at was that the jbolts are not my first choice, I am doing another slab 30x40 right now so I am going to talk a little more about the tapcons in it, because I may also be building the post frame garage on it this winter. thanks for the good input
Why the rest of the south is not doing this type of slab we don’t know by the way we notice your pink thermal layer above the gravel before the concrete is poured on the steel and mesh. Slump 5. Dirt Boss is a bad ass from Alaska so much so that he inspired this guy in Florida.
Hi Jesse, just curious if there are stone slinger trucks in your area? I see that you and Andrew both do a lot of your own hauling on jobs like this. In my area, we typically use slingers and keep up with a rake and laser as the stone is being slung. I did a project in Watertown and there weren’t any in that area...
That's cool to see. And you're right, there's not a lot of good videos about foundation work out there (compared to other construction stuff anyways). One question tho; no ground frost insulation under the slab? I'm from Finland, so maybe the climate is a bit different, but here they put thick insulation under the slab to keep the frost from getting to the concrete and breaking it.
I really have not found anything crazy interesting. A few bottles from like the 20's..sometimes I will find old stuff like that out in the middle of no-where and its interesting to think about what or who was there that long ago
Great job all around..i also agrree 💯 on the j bolt topic.. Thanks so much for the shout out🎤
Dirtboss
Drainage system in outer àrea ditch ?
yw, btw where did you get your pizza pan? somewhere up there in albany that has them?
@@jmuller86 Here's the link
Call first they should have them in stock. Ask for Tony or John
g.co/kgs/FwCxrS
Thanks
In Sweden we use something called nail expander (english translation). We always put the sill or the whole premade wall on flat concrete slab and attache with these nails. 8mm hammerdrill hole throuh the timber and into the concrete, 110mm deep. Super fast, easy to hammer them in, nothing pointing up, strong as hell.
Look like this verktygsboden.se/20.0.0.4/45426/cache/45426_d54d93cbc29ab3e3b69bd581ce782bb5.jpg
Do you use them also in the US?
You might sound more convincing if you didn't contradict your self? You say that J Bolts and Wedge Bolts are comparable in strength then say that you have never seen WB pull out but JB will. By definition then WB must be stronger than JB? However at the end of the day as long as they get a Guarantee with your work then would any problems sorted. How ever I do agree with your other point that drilling holes with wood in place has to be quicker and easier.
I just did a pour for my slab house using only foam as the outside forms. No wood forms, no metal or wooden steaks. Using my mini excavator, digging trench around outside. Lay 2' foam flat on the bottom and 2' vertical. This gives you 4'of frost protection, (that's required here in Wisconsin ). Using string to set the vertical foam to the size needed. But leave string line up for the pour, you can easily adjust the foam when the concrete is being poured. This way don't need to go back and do the foam after and don't need to bring form boards, nothing at all. Really works great and super fast!
Well done, Jesse! Start to finish, you went through all the details very well and it was very informative. The J bolt issue makes total sense to me and you did a great job explaining your reasoning. It was pretty cool to watch the season changing as you worked and the shout outs to Dirt Boss and Mike Day were really thoughtful. Thanks for all the hard work putting this together.
Jesse i liked the way you did not over-work the cream out of the concrete.Love the finished look of the concrete.
Sixty years ago I worked for my foreman father on a big construction project. That's when I learned about anchor bolts instead of J bolts.
Its 3 years on now, enjoyed that a lot, thanks :)
Today’s constractor must be an expert at their work and good at filmography to capture their expertise! Magnificent! 👍
I need to make some new floors around the house in Chiang Mai Northern Thailand. Good to see how to build these to the highest standard, now I can take the 3 standards that matter to me Thai, US and Australian and make sure we meet or exceed all 3 - thanks Andrew.
Thanks for this. I'm pouring two 16 x 28 foot pads at either end of my garage to extend my garage from 36 x 28 to 72' x 28. Therefore this was useful to see. Your dozer would have been useful for that one corner, but the extra trip would probably slowed you down. Thanks for the video.
Hard work. Concrete and video editing. Thanks for your time and effort.
Definitely wanna see an update on this building when it's done 👀 awesome slab!!
Thanks for the referral to Dirt Boss Tri County excavating! He's got lots of great content!
OK, dude....I was critical of one of your previews videos and you
responded pretty kindly, so I stuck around. I am about 10 minutes in
and this is frigging AWESOME! I really hope this kind of pace keep up
through this video. You added the music, but sparingly. I'm excited for the next hour!
Jesse, those are control joints to keep cracking in the joint... expansion joints use the asphalted felt to control expansion. Expansion joints are typically used in this application where the apron meets the slab or similar instance.
Gotta love the power screen!
To square up the building with all string lines out just measure the diagonals of the whole building. The 3,4,5 method is good, but measuring the diagonal is a more accurate square up as well.
yes we always definitely check the diagonals, sometimes I use an app on my phone to get the diagonals, but the 345 is a good method to begin squaring things up, the diagonal finalizes it
Appreciate all the hard work you did making this video. High quality content. Really enjoyed it and learned a lot.
Hello from Yorkton, Saskatchewan, Canada. Great show’s thanks for sharing with us.
Once you see the bucket flipping you off, you can't un-see the bucket flipping you off....
This was super informative and also totally convinces me to find a qualified concrete company in my area. I don't have the experiance, tools or back to do concrete work.
When will you up-load more framing work. I can't do anything hard working because of my health problems. It's fun too watch.
Great stuff Jesse! I could watch this stuff all day. I’m sure you’re thankful you get to work in the great outdoors, most of us are stuck in a building or office all day.
Great tip on the wedge anchors with epoxy. Always learning a lot on TH-cam. Thanks for sharing.
You do great work Jesse thanks for the video showing how its done.
Great intuitive details in settings up a concrete slab, keep those videos coming.
Nice job and very generous of you to give such a positive shoutout about a fellow youtuber.
High wind areas I would much rather use J Bolts. Wedge Anchors are not as effective and in many areas they won't pass code. You did a FANTASTIC JOB, VERY IMPRESSIVE JOB‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Dirt Boss Tri-County Masonry is awesome. I love his videos. He is well worth checking out!!
Great video. Really appreciate all the detail explanations....as well as the effort to put this together.
Great video . I could never do work like that . Heck I don't even know how to use that lazer level . Looks like someone has a few Jamaica Cottage buildings and just bought a big building .
Now THAT was a very well put together video. You are getting better editing and producing.. Keep up the good work.
I use a²+b²=c² formula to make 90° corners.
mostly 6²+8²=10²(Pythagoras theoram ). mark 1 string line at 6meters from the corner & other line at 8 meters, now start measuring from either 6m mark to 8m mark(or 8m to 6m), wherever 8m & 10m connects mark the point, set up a rebar piece put a string line on it & you got your 90° corner.( meters in bigger projects & foots in small projects)
Nice job. I think the wedge anchor decision makes more sense too. Drill them in place, where ever you want/need them...I like your content. More please!! 😊
Always enjoy your vids Jesse
I think that is one of the only driver's I have seen that worked with the crew to make it easier. It seems that most of the time they are trying to blow out the forms and get the truck empty as soon as possible to get to another load. Also, when I become king of the world I am making all concrete trucks front loaders.
the drivers around here are usually really good with slabs, lots of work going on around here so everybody is constantly learning quick
This is why I pay guys like you to do this, nice work! Any chance you will do a follow up on the end product? Looks interesting...
Nice job Jesse, keep it up.
I have a very similar project coming up in the Spring and I learned a lot, Jesse. Very informative. Great editing with your video. I love the cutting shots (multiple angles) and those drone scenery shots cut in. Awesome as always, Jesse! Thank you very much.
thanks. good luck on your project. I am doing another one right now, 30x40 and may build a pole barn on it this winter
From the UK......Great videos....
Cool, you guys did a great job and a lot of hard work, you liking that skid steer thanks for the video.
AC did some work at this site, recognized the 2 opposing sheds. Nice job on the slab
that was me, I did alot of work there. it was way too far for AC so he referred me to do the job
@@jmuller86 Please accept my apology, I mixed you 2 up. Love returning to the site and see it grow.
@@kevinwilliams8662 thats ok, I have another one coming up , 30x40 slab
You do some Beautiful work.. love watching your video
Nice job Lads ,hard word is not easy .
Great job Jesse! Keep those video's coming..👍
Kind of like making and frosting a Giant Cake.
~Great video Jesse!
Many chose a tighter pack with fines with no room for water because the less water in the compaction, the less water to freeze and expand. With larger rock, there is more space for water and that water expands by 10% when it freezes. If the base can hold 10% water, it can freeze and expand 1%. If it can hold 25% water between larger rock, it can freeze and expand 2.5%
Any extra strength from J-bolts is over-kill. Wedge anchors or screw in concrete bolts have plenty of strength. Much easier to get a smooth surface for bottom plates without J-bolts.
Concrete is plenty strong at 7 days. If the customer wants quick access, use higher grade concrete. The added cost to use higher grade concrete is often worth it to get crews working a week or 2 earlier.
I used 5/8 minus for my gravel it's a pain to pack down but solid ...
We use 1/2" x 7" wedge anchors same as you AND if we don't do the slab and the previous person put "J" bolts in.....We cut them off, drill and use wedge anchors.
The towns will accept Simpson STB2-50700 anchors.
It is so much easier and faster with wedge anchors and we have never had a problem in 20yrs.
yea , I am going actually put some tapcons in this slab in a few days, they are actually a little faster even yet. Its nice to stand up the wall and slide it over
If a Structural engineer oversaw this, it would need F6 Rio and Rio chairs at 1/3 the top pour thickness and integrated channels @ 2.4M with F10 deformed bar and F8 trench mesh. The last time I saw mesh sitting on the ground with concrete poured over was in China on a road project when the engineer was away. :)
Agreed. I'm consistently amazed that almost all of the slabs that are on YT in the USA do not support the reinforcing steel with bar chairs or anything else, despite the well-documented evidence against their poor practice of pulling up steel while pouring. And most have never seen a decent aluminium Master Finish screed, using lengths of timber instead, doing what they call 'kick screeding' and then trying to level wavy, humpy concrete with a bullfloat or chopper. As for the amount of extra hard yakka they do, with all those slider boards and 'jitterbugs' and other gadgets, wages must be incredibly low for the concretors to spend so much extra work and unnecessary time on slabs.
Nice job Jesse, and man what a beautiful area! Thanks for sharing.
DC
Wow , that was great Jesse. One subject start to finish good running time lots of information for no nothings
like me. I really enjoyed the video.
Great Job Jesse!
thanks Mike, did you hear your shout out at the end? you got some good content on your channel too.
@@jmuller86 Yes! Thank you for that!!
Great Pour Men
Great video! Nice music on the outro
Excellent finish work buddy, first class !
thanks, I am pouring another one on monday, with some different angles
@@jmuller86 I was goin to ask you why you didn't put J bolts but you explained it, building codes in California is crazy, no way they pass that great job of yours here, with all the earthquake building codes we have nevertheless still clean work,good job.
@@georgezgreek yea I can imagine something like that there, I did quite a bit of research on it and as long as you dont put the wedge anchor too close to the edge its strong enough for a non-seismic or high wind area
Always power trowel the opposite way you rod.
Your form could use work. When using power trowel on bottom go right . Go left on top to wipe out your line from bottom pass.
I started to go opposite but then had some areas that needed attention sooner so I got side tracked. I dont do these slabs every day, I usually average more foundation wall work in a year than flatwork. but I am doing another one right now 30x40 so I will put more detail in the finish on this one. thanks for the tips
Nice! It looks good! Ya I'm opposite we pour walls mostly to get in on the rest of the project. Were always playing with the mix to try to reduce air pockets. Good luck with the next one💪
1.08:46 Buddy the foreman decided to stroll right across the top in order to check your work for proper denseness. Great job to the 4 legged site inspector LOL!!!
That's Dopey the foreman 😂 he told me it all checked out.
Pink foam on board boards excellent. This is what the South should do, amoung other things.
Man, the disdain I have for concert work. You guys worked your ass off doing this one!
...lookin 'good, nice work...
Awesome video. I work for a part of Bonded Concrete. My part is called Century Acquisitions. I pour concrete mostly in CT, MA, and Eastern NY
Nice work !!!
Missed this Vid, Thank yoy
I'm impressed with myself, I was actually able to see the black Sharpie mark on the string line.
Jesse in your digging with your excavations have you ever dig up any thing unusual just wondering because I have hammers and all kind of old faction tool and things just wondering if you have
Excellent video!
Bucks WoodShop #
I like no concrete in contact with the outside world - all foam insulated. Best way to go. Not just warm but also dry!
Great work. On to the next job :)
look like a video from andrew camarata but great job man! Very informative for a young carpenter like like me
Would it be possible to attach the beeping height measuring stick directly to the front pusher of the digger so that you can get a better sense at what hight the gravel should be?
Great job! Congratulations ! Thanks ! take care !
Fantastic job 👏
Nice work! I'm not contractor, but I enjoyed your process & can understand your rational for particular processes. Thanks for video! P.S. Can EASILY & READILY see vast improvement in quality of your videos! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽Nice! 😎
I agree 100% with you on the use of J-bolts.
1:06:25 I thought that was a snowboard being used to screed concrete for a second :D
BEAUTIFUL WORK
That’s great you did an Alaskan slab in Florida with a slump 5 like I said 😎
Very good vid extremely interesting well done you sure know your business.
Great Job! Nice video Thanks
The English car hiding was either a Morris Oxford or an Austin Cambridge. They were the same shape and made by the same car company (BMC) but different interiors I thunk.
Jesse time to buy some acres divide it up make some lots and sell it off. You can do that !!!!! Do all the civil work add water septic road even slap if needed etc at a reduced rate.
I told Andrew he should consider doing just that
Dont consider just to it !!! And get a joint venture agreement with a shotgun clause. I can send you one if need be
wish you would have shown the rest of the slab prep: rebar, mesh, foamboard.
footage of placing concrete is appreciated though.
how do you price this type of install?
have you ever used an EPS form for forming the perimeter or would you consider using it?
music?
overall, nice editing and well placed comments throughout.
No radiant tubing? Customer missed an opportunity. Cheap to add for future heat option.
J Bolts all the way. also I would make sure not to use pea gavel it does not compact down. you walk on it and shifts use sand or crushed rock. I like the fact living were I do we have a lot of basalt flows and we use that as crushed rock. compact that and it is like concrete or asphalt. then you pour your slab like every on here has said use rebar #4 that is half inch and use the nylon reenforced cement and your slab will last for ever!
Excellent video and in agreement on the j bolts. Not necessary.
Excellent job squaring up the shape with the ‘3-4-5’method (or multiples thereof).
So many people try measuring diagonals until like numbers are achieved and assume they are square, but that is a fallible method. A²+B²=C²
(edit/add)
I agree with you on the wedge anchors vs j-bolts. You might also try the LDT anchors (large diameter tapcons). They’re even easier to use and you can back them out and move them if needed. The only thing I differ with you on is the amount of time needed to wait before building the walls. Actually you only need to wait as long as it takes to not put footprints in the slab (immediately). We used to pour a slab in the morning and in the afternoon we could pour some of the columns and shear walls for the next floor. And no high-early strength concrete was necessary. Very nice job you guys did there and it was cool to hear you give a shout-out to Mike Day. The guy really knows his concrete.
🤜🤛
thanks, and yea I did put a comment up about the tapcons but when I edited a part out it left that comment up for only like 2 seconds. I actually think tapcons are a better choice myself, what I was really trying to get at was that the jbolts are not my first choice, I am doing another slab 30x40 right now so I am going to talk a little more about the tapcons in it, because I may also be building the post frame garage on it this winter. thanks for the good input
Why the rest of the south is not doing this type of slab we don’t know by the way we notice your pink thermal layer above the gravel before the concrete is poured on the steel and mesh. Slump 5. Dirt Boss is a bad ass from Alaska so much so that he inspired this guy in Florida.
Hi Jesse, just curious if there are stone slinger trucks in your area? I see that you and Andrew both do a lot of your own hauling on jobs like this. In my area, we typically use slingers and keep up with a rake and laser as the stone is being slung. I did a project in Watertown and there weren’t any in that area...
That's cool to see. And you're right, there's not a lot of good videos about foundation work out there (compared to other construction stuff anyways). One question tho; no ground frost insulation under the slab? I'm from Finland, so maybe the climate is a bit different, but here they put thick insulation under the slab to keep the frost from getting to the concrete and breaking it.
Nice video and great work
You are correct no j bolts for me if the anchors fail the structure is gone already
I kept waiting for the dog to walk across
Nice job man, good work all around 👍🇺🇸👍.
Don't you just LOVE power trowels 🤘🤘
You got a new subscriber.
yea I have troweled by hand quite a few times , and rented machines. but nothing beats just having one always
The anchor bolt stuff you talked about is that ok with the building inspector
I'm 6 minutes into this and thinking: "He's making Shedhenge!".
buy some wall straightening turnbuckles ---- cheap, reusable, works with 'holey rod ' stakes and it replaces labor
I do have some turnbuckles for my wall forms, but not enough for a slab like this
Trabalho fantástico ! Adorei ! 🥰Que por do sol maravilhoso !
كم تكلفة المشروع كامل ؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟
Jesse: What's the WEIRDEST thing you've ever found while digging?
Just here for the answer 😅
I really have not found anything crazy interesting. A few bottles from like the 20's..sometimes I will find old stuff like that out in the middle of no-where and its interesting to think about what or who was there that long ago
while digging the footers i se many roots do these need to be killed if so how?
The steel stakes you use on the form, do they have holes drilled in them do they? Could you explain how they are made.
yes they have holes that are 90 degrees from each other. I am not sure how they are made but they work good and are cheap