I'm new to my Ender 3 v2 and when I have a problem I go STRAIGHT to your channel. Great information and tutorials and professional production. Thank you!
Very helpful instructions. I installed my yellow springs this evening, and it was a big help. Still need to adjust now and then. Thank you very kindly.
Excellent Bryan. Looking forward to upgrading my Ender using your tutorials. This spring upgrade seems simple enough, time to give it a go. Thanks as always for sharing!
Hi Thierry, and thanks!! Probably the hardest part of it is dealing with the strain relief at the back left corner of the bed, but that's the worst of it. It's just a snap-on cover and a zip tie. 👍
Going to be setting up my Ender 3 V2 later today, and cranking the bed all the way down to avoid crashes on the Z axis is exactly the tip I was missing!
Hi! Sorry, I'm just now seeing this. The STL file contains the 3D model, but you'll need to use Bambu Studio to convert that file into instructions to tell the printer how to print each layer. That process is called Slicing, because it's slicing the 3D model into the individual layers.
Thanks, Cathy! I appreciate it! Oh, and that spool was one I got from 3D Solutech. They were doing a refillable spool system, and they would send the spools out when you'd order a refill, so you'd have something to put it on. In the end though, I think the cost difference between a refill and a regular spool of filament was only a buck or two, so convenience kind of won that battle. It's more of a chore to have to zip tie up what's left on a spool to change it out for a different refill, than it is to just use a regular spool.
Boy, you must live, eat and breathe 3D printing. I'm going to have to pony up some cash soon and leave you a tip. I migrated from Windows to Mac. I thought well, I'll just get the Creality download for Mac. LOL. You're the best. I'm going to do a calibration square on the Prusa slicer software to see if everything works tomorrow. I didn't have to much trouble with the gap and bed leveling though. I use a tempered glass plate, (Creality makes one) this will bring the surface of your bed up, but prints are harder to remove. I have to remove the plate and hold in a vise while I whack the spatula with a hammer for larger prints.
On small to medium sized printers, I think bed probes are good for compensating for a bowed or sagging bed. The other good use for a bed probe like a BLTouch is if you have a removable flex plate system with different print surfaces available. Some surfaces are thicker than others, so a BLTouch is perfect for that. I'm manually leveling the bed on my Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro, and I'm even manually leveling the bed on my Sovol SV01 (it's got a 280x240 glass bed). That said, I've got an inductive sensor that I plan to install, mostly for the experience (and to share that experience, of course). :)
Very good video Bryan, I was struggling with mine Ender 3 adjusting the bed level for 2 days, even without replacing the springs (yet) your video did help me on how to properly adjust that. thanks
I went the other way completely lol. No springs! Removed all the springs and replaced them with washers. Installed a bl touch and just let it compensate for any small variations.
Just fitted some and I have the opposite problem to you. With the stock springs fully compressed I have a lot of air between the bed and the nozzle as you state. But with the orange ones fitted, even fully compressed, the bed sits higher, to the extent that when I HOME the printer the nozzle just touches the bed. I am going to have to raise the limit switch if I what to stick with these springs which is a little disappointing. That is with an Ender 3 Pro - thin magnetic layer - if I were to add a glass bed I'd have to raise the limit switch quite a bit more.
Hi Nigel, that's interesting. On mine, when the Z limit switch was moved to the lowest position, and the adjustment knobs on the right side of the bed were as loose as possible, the nozzle just barely touched the bed. I needed that extra height and spring tension. The design of the Z limit switch mount makes it difficult to move lower without bending the mount, but it's easy to move the Z limit switch higher.
@@BV3D I have found that there are different length springs out there advertised for the Ender 3. The original soft ones that came with my Ender 3 Pro are about 20mm long. When I purchased the orange replacements, I found numerous sellers, all advertising as Ender 3 without any mention of spring length. I have measured the ones I have received and they are 25mm long, 5mm longer than stock which explains the problem I am seeing. I have some different ones on order which are claimed to be 20mm which should suit my printer much better. Maybe you need the 25mm springs.
Look at your delivery at 11:12, where you say, All Done? Great! That’s what you want all of your very well written narrative to look like. Just as a suggestion, look st that moment again. Where does your screen need to be do your eyes are where the were during that moment? If you can move the screen accordingly, your great scripts will be fantastic to watch also! And finally, are you not using Marlin in that printer? Great tutorial, Bryan!!!!!
You dont need to mess about with the heat bed strain relif you just remove the magnetic print bed and lift the screw enough for you to slide the spring in there lol
Thanks for the video, I just subbed! That's strange, I was wondering why you were saying there is no option to move the Z on the menu, my Stock Ender 3 Pro has a "move Axis" option under prepare , but I see @ 6:00 you don't have it! I got an STL for the bed leveling off CHEP's "Ender 3 Easy Bed leveling" video, it moves the nozzle around like you desribe but it waits for you to click the touch wheel before it moves.
Hi Brian! It's odd that there are little differences in firmware between the Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro. As far as the firmware is concerned, the printers are identical. Same bed dimensions, same motors, same hot end. But yeah, I have to manually move the Z axis on mine. That's cool about the file Chuck provides, where you click to go to the next corner. Thanks for watching and commenting! 😃
I just set up my printer and it's in homing position but I decided I wanna install these new springs. I cant seem to move the x axis up by moving the coupler clockwise/ counter clockwise. It's pretty tight and doesnt wanna move. Its stuck in the homing position. Why wont it up when I screw the coupler ? It feels locked in the homing position.
Tried doing this, when i put auto home to level my bed my nozzle is too close to the bed. I can't bring it down anymore cuz the knobs are already too tight to move. What do i do? Help
How many times do you turn your knobs every single time I turn my and I try to level my bed my filament doesn't stick to my bed can you please tell me how many times you turn yours
Will this video was great, my bed leveling springs are trash and the bed becomes unleveled after a single print, after I spend an hour making things perfect
I assembled a new printer and having seen your videos, I used the yellow springs right from the start instead of using the stock springs. I have got the bed pretty dialed up but I think I might have started from a "too tight" position on these yellow springs. That might have caused a bit of extra push on all 4 corners causing a little shallower center which I can't adjust. Can you please tell me what is a good starting point for the spring compression? TIA.
my ender v3 s1 pro has chunkier yellow springs from the factory but i feel like i need to adjust every 1-2 prints? the center of my bed was a little low relative to the sides, so i bought a 4mm glass plate bed and it worked a treat for the first two prints. now i need to adjust it all over again. feels like it shouldn't be that way. i'm a novice though.
Does anyone know the solution to the issue he mentioned at the beginning of the video when the lowest setting of the z axis limit switch is too high!?!? I can’t find anyone else with this issue and this is the first time I’ve seen someone mention it.
for me using paper is the best.. tried the other ways,but using a 6x6 piece of reg printer paper for cr10 and ender 5 is best ... the more you do it the better and faster you get... someone could totally screw up my settings on purpose and i could relevel using paper in less then 2 minutes every time.
Hi, I've updated the link in the description. Peter Solomon moved the file from DropBox over to Thingiverse, along with leveling files for other Creality printers.
Another great tutorial Bryan. Do you have a recommendation on replacement springs for the Monoprice Maker Select Plus? I'm going to feel embarrassed if you did essentially the same vid for that printer.
Thanks Tim! These should fit the MMSP as well. I need to replace the bed thermistor on one of mine, so when I put it back together, I'll confirm that they fit, and let you know!
Being an older kind of idiot , what is the best way to get the download to my computer? I am more of an automotive person.. I have issues finding what I watched on my phone. Sorry for being not so tech savvy. Thank you for your video.
My issue is the exact opposite. When homed, the z axis is extremely low even after setting the springs. It's so low, it gauged a channel in the bed. Is there a way to adjust home? I'd need maybe a half inch. I've got the tension on the springs as far as they'll go which isnt ideal
Hi, it sounds like you need to adjust the Z endstop switch mount, and move it a little higher. Manually turn the Z stepper motor to raise the X gantry a little bit, so that the nozzle clears the bed by about 1mm. Loosen the two screws holding the Z endstop switch mount in place on the left side of the printer. Raise the Z endstop switch mount until you feel the switch triggering against the wheel bracket on the left side of the X gantry. Tighten the screws to secure the Z endstop switch mount at the new height. Now when you home the Z axis, the nozzle should stop about a millimeter above the bed. Then you can adjust the bed leveling knobs as needed. Hope that helps!
Seeing as I use Manual Mesh Bed Levelling which is unbelievable easy to do with the 3DFused Linear Bearings on the X and Z-Axis. Would Solid Bed Mounts such as those provided by TH3D not make the Spring System redundant?
Hi Bryan Great videos. Just subscribed. I am having the same issues with my nozzle not getting close enough to the print bed. The gap is huge and when I go to adjust the adjustment screws just end up coming off and there is a still a great big gap. I have ordered new springs and also a glass bed that is coming tomorrow but wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything else I needed to do before they got here.
You may need to adjust your Z axis end stop switch. Since that switch determines the “zero” position for the Z axis, if the switch is too high, the nozzle stops too far above the bed. On the left side of the frame, right next to the Z axis stepper motor, you’ll find the mounting bracket for the Z axis end stop switch. Turn off the printer. Loosen the two screws holding that mounting bracket to the frame, so you can move (or remove) the bracket. Tighten the bed adjustment knobs at least halfway, maybe a little more. Try to get them compressed evenly on all four corners. Manually turn the Z axis lead screw to bring the nozzle just touching the bed. It’s easiest to move by turning that gray aluminum coupler which is attached to the stepper motor. Reattach the Z axis limit switch so that the switch is being pressed by the bracket on the X axis arm. Manually turn the Z axis lead screw to get the nozzle a few millimeters above the bed, then turn on the printer, click the knob to get into the menus, go to Prepare, and Auto Home. When the printer homes the Z axis, the nozzle should be just a smidgen above the bed, and you should be able to adjust the bed knobs to get the bed height set properly. Good luck!
Don't do what I did. I thought the Spring by the Heater cable (bottom left) had popped out and I installed the yellow spring BELOW the Heater plate bit. Now I had TWO Springs installed...666 attempts at levelling the Bed and nearly contacting the Mental Ward to vountarily commit myself I decided to re-install the original Springs....I cursed myself for letting the original Spring 'pop' out and looked everywhere! It was later I noticed the original Spring was still in place! I had TWO Springs installed on lower left corner and could not level my Bed despite moving the Z-Switch UP-DOWN-UP-DOWN 333 times. I hope this helps someone because this was an experience where I nearly lost my mind and smashed my Ender 3 up.
Great instructions but I still have a bit of a problem leveling my bed. It seems the strain relief flexes the corner of the bed itself upwards and no matter what I do I cant seem to get it leveled, anyone have any tips??
I put the yellow springs on my Ender 3. The issue I'm facing is that the springs/knobs don't have enough travel to do the leveling. They lose all tension before I can level. any suggestions? Thanks
did a little more trial and error. I decided to move the vertical switch up a few milometers so that the springs would have a little more travel. Is this the right way to do it?
i have replace the springs with the springs what you say but no i have the problem i can not printing, stay not stack on the bed anymore what i also do nozzle to high to bed then to low i can not get it done. Please can you helped me i have a bltouch.
I did it in about 10 minutes, yes I took my time and made sure it was all good, worked like a charm and made leveling the bed WAY EASIER!!!!!!
I'm new to my Ender 3 v2 and when I have a problem I go STRAIGHT to your channel. Great information and tutorials and professional production. Thank you!
Very good video, Bryan. Thank you so much for your contribution to the 3D Printing Community. You have quite a few Portuguese fans. Keep it up!
One of the best instructional videos on TH-cam. Thanks! Well done!
Very helpful instructions. I installed my yellow springs this evening, and it was a big help. Still need to adjust now and then. Thank you very kindly.
Excellent Bryan. Looking forward to upgrading my Ender using your tutorials. This spring upgrade seems simple enough, time to give it a go. Thanks as always for sharing!
Hi Thierry, and thanks!! Probably the hardest part of it is dealing with the strain relief at the back left corner of the bed, but that's the worst of it. It's just a snap-on cover and a zip tie. 👍
Good concise video with clear instructions. Really appreciate it! Just got my yellow springs and Capricorn tube for my Ender 3 V2.
thanks for the call out Bryan! great videos, so very clearly explained, as always!
Hi Peter! Thanks for the recommendation on the springs and the leveling file, they're both great! 👍
Thanks for making so many videos. You've been a real good troubleshooting resource.
Hey sir, I became your fan! I like your videos, straight to the point.
I was about to throw away my printer when I discovered your channel
Thanks!
Going to be setting up my Ender 3 V2 later today, and cranking the bed all the way down to avoid crashes on the Z axis is exactly the tip I was missing!
Thank you!
Hi! Sorry, I'm just now seeing this. The STL file contains the 3D model, but you'll need to use Bambu Studio to convert that file into instructions to tell the printer how to print each layer. That process is called Slicing, because it's slicing the 3D model into the individual layers.
The current Ender3 Pro screen
interface allows Z-axis moves from the “Prepare” submenu.
That's very helpful, thank you. And that filament spool it great.
Thanks, Cathy! I appreciate it! Oh, and that spool was one I got from 3D Solutech. They were doing a refillable spool system, and they would send the spools out when you'd order a refill, so you'd have something to put it on. In the end though, I think the cost difference between a refill and a regular spool of filament was only a buck or two, so convenience kind of won that battle. It's more of a chore to have to zip tie up what's left on a spool to change it out for a different refill, than it is to just use a regular spool.
thank you. this helped me a lot. just bought my first 3d printer ( ender 3 v2)/ now it even prints something usefull!
Another great video! I don’t have an Ender 3, but this looks equally applicable to my Ender 5! I look forward to trying it out.
Boy, you must live, eat and breathe 3D printing. I'm going to have to pony up some cash soon and leave you a tip. I migrated from Windows to Mac. I thought well, I'll just get the Creality download for Mac. LOL. You're the best. I'm going to do a calibration square on the Prusa slicer software to see if everything works tomorrow. I didn't have to much trouble with the gap and bed leveling though. I use a tempered glass plate, (Creality makes one) this will bring the surface of your bed up, but prints are harder to remove. I have to remove the plate and hold in a vise while I whack the spatula with a hammer for larger prints.
Very cool. Thanks. I'm getting started right now replacing the springs...
Best tutorials on TH-cam!!!!!
I put better springs on my E3 while I still had a BLtouch in it's box. I almost didn't install the BLtouch since the bed leveling was THAT stable.
On small to medium sized printers, I think bed probes are good for compensating for a bowed or sagging bed. The other good use for a bed probe like a BLTouch is if you have a removable flex plate system with different print surfaces available. Some surfaces are thicker than others, so a BLTouch is perfect for that.
I'm manually leveling the bed on my Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro, and I'm even manually leveling the bed on my Sovol SV01 (it's got a 280x240 glass bed).
That said, I've got an inductive sensor that I plan to install, mostly for the experience (and to share that experience, of course). :)
Very good video Bryan, I was struggling with mine Ender 3 adjusting the bed level for 2 days, even without replacing the springs (yet) your video did help me on how to properly adjust that.
thanks
I went the other way completely lol. No springs! Removed all the springs and replaced them with washers. Installed a bl touch and just let it compensate for any small variations.
I like the way you think.
great clear video
Excellent video! Thanks for posting
I like how you make these videos, they're detailed, easy to understand, and helpful. I appreciate these a lot. Ty =D
This is very well done. Thank you for making this video.
Just fitted some and I have the opposite problem to you. With the stock springs fully compressed I have a lot of air between the bed and the nozzle as you state. But with the orange ones fitted, even fully compressed, the bed sits higher, to the extent that when I HOME the printer the nozzle just touches the bed. I am going to have to raise the limit switch if I what to stick with these springs which is a little disappointing. That is with an Ender 3 Pro - thin magnetic layer - if I were to add a glass bed I'd have to raise the limit switch quite a bit more.
Hi Nigel, that's interesting. On mine, when the Z limit switch was moved to the lowest position, and the adjustment knobs on the right side of the bed were as loose as possible, the nozzle just barely touched the bed. I needed that extra height and spring tension. The design of the Z limit switch mount makes it difficult to move lower without bending the mount, but it's easy to move the Z limit switch higher.
@@BV3D I have found that there are different length springs out there advertised for the Ender 3. The original soft ones that came with my Ender 3 Pro are about 20mm long. When I purchased the orange replacements, I found numerous sellers, all advertising as Ender 3 without any mention of spring length. I have measured the ones I have received and they are 25mm long, 5mm longer than stock which explains the problem I am seeing. I have some different ones on order which are claimed to be 20mm which should suit my printer much better. Maybe you need the 25mm springs.
Look at your delivery at 11:12, where you say, All Done? Great! That’s what you want all of your very well written narrative to look like. Just as a suggestion, look st that moment again. Where does your screen need to be do your eyes are where the were during that moment? If you can move the screen accordingly, your great scripts will be fantastic to watch also! And finally, are you not using Marlin in that printer? Great tutorial, Bryan!!!!!
Brayn,
Well done
Richard
Hi Richard! Thanks, I appreciate it!
@@BV3D you are running a very good Chanel good content my complimenten aan thanks
Richard
This video was very helpful and easy to follow. Thanks alot!
Nice Job Bryan, Nothing new for me , but still enjoyable.
Thank you, Chris!
Thanks man
Used you video to the T My test patter prints came out spot on just some minor adjustments tweaking the 4 corners Nice!
You dont need to mess about with the heat bed strain relif you just remove the magnetic print bed and lift the screw enough for you to slide the spring in there lol
Thanks for the video, I just subbed!
That's strange, I was wondering why you were saying there is no option to move the Z on the menu, my Stock Ender 3 Pro has a "move Axis" option under prepare , but I see @ 6:00 you don't have it!
I got an STL for the bed leveling off CHEP's "Ender 3 Easy Bed leveling" video, it moves the nozzle around like you desribe but it waits for you to click the touch wheel before it moves.
Hi Brian! It's odd that there are little differences in firmware between the Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro. As far as the firmware is concerned, the printers are identical. Same bed dimensions, same motors, same hot end. But yeah, I have to manually move the Z axis on mine. That's cool about the file Chuck provides, where you click to go to the next corner. Thanks for watching and commenting! 😃
Great job!
Thank you, Christopher! 😀
Thanks for the vid. It helped a lot
Hi, Bryan...Did you find a massive difference with the new springs in place?
You missed how far to adjust to the limit switch????. What about z axis limit switch....
I just set up my printer and it's in homing position but I decided I wanna install these new springs. I cant seem to move the x axis up by moving the coupler clockwise/ counter clockwise. It's pretty tight and doesnt wanna move. Its stuck in the homing position. Why wont it up when I screw the coupler ? It feels locked in the homing position.
Tried doing this, when i put auto home to level my bed my nozzle is too close to the bed. I can't bring it down anymore cuz the knobs are already too tight to move. What do i do? Help
How many times do you turn your knobs every single time I turn my and I try to level my bed my filament doesn't stick to my bed can you please tell me how many times you turn yours
Will this video was great, my bed leveling springs are trash and the bed becomes unleveled after a single print, after I spend an hour making things perfect
I assembled a new printer and having seen your videos, I used the yellow springs right from the start instead of using the stock springs. I have got the bed pretty dialed up but I think I might have started from a "too tight" position on these yellow springs. That might have caused a bit of extra push on all 4 corners causing a little shallower center which I can't adjust. Can you please tell me what is a good starting point for the spring compression? TIA.
my ender v3 s1 pro has chunkier yellow springs from the factory but i feel like i need to adjust every 1-2 prints? the center of my bed was a little low relative to the sides, so i bought a 4mm glass plate bed and it worked a treat for the first two prints. now i need to adjust it all over again. feels like it shouldn't be that way. i'm a novice though.
Does anyone know the solution to the issue he mentioned at the beginning of the video when the lowest setting of the z axis limit switch is too high!?!? I can’t find anyone else with this issue and this is the first time I’ve seen someone mention it.
You didn’t make x axis switch higher?
for me using paper is the best.. tried the other ways,but using a 6x6 piece of reg printer paper for cr10 and ender 5 is best ... the more you do it the better and faster you get... someone could totally screw up my settings on purpose and i could relevel using paper in less then 2 minutes every time.
I don't see a link to the springs? Can you please provide it?
do you know the proper way to clean the bed of the ender?
Thanks. I find your videos very informative and useful. However the link to the gcode file is broken :-(
Hi, I've updated the link in the description. Peter Solomon moved the file from DropBox over to Thingiverse, along with leveling files for other Creality printers.
My adjustment screws bottom out when I use those yellow springs.
Another great tutorial Bryan. Do you have a recommendation on replacement springs for the Monoprice Maker Select Plus? I'm going to feel embarrassed if you did essentially the same vid for that printer.
Thanks Tim! These should fit the MMSP as well. I need to replace the bed thermistor on one of mine, so when I put it back together, I'll confirm that they fit, and let you know!
Being an older kind of idiot , what is the best way to get the download to my computer? I am more of an automotive person.. I have issues finding what I watched on my phone. Sorry for being not so tech savvy. Thank you for your video.
My issue is the exact opposite. When homed, the z axis is extremely low even after setting the springs. It's so low, it gauged a channel in the bed. Is there a way to adjust home? I'd need maybe a half inch. I've got the tension on the springs as far as they'll go which isnt ideal
Hi, it sounds like you need to adjust the Z endstop switch mount, and move it a little higher.
Manually turn the Z stepper motor to raise the X gantry a little bit, so that the nozzle clears the bed by about 1mm.
Loosen the two screws holding the Z endstop switch mount in place on the left side of the printer.
Raise the Z endstop switch mount until you feel the switch triggering against the wheel bracket on the left side of the X gantry.
Tighten the screws to secure the Z endstop switch mount at the new height.
Now when you home the Z axis, the nozzle should stop about a millimeter above the bed. Then you can adjust the bed leveling knobs as needed.
Hope that helps!
5:10 how do you do that? I've tried to remove it so many times and the cap will not budge...
Seeing as I use Manual Mesh Bed Levelling which is unbelievable easy to do with the 3DFused Linear Bearings on the X and Z-Axis. Would Solid Bed Mounts such as those provided by TH3D not make the Spring System redundant?
I think that is the Ender 3 not the Ender 3 pro
Nope, it's the Pro. The bed rides on a 4040 aluminum extrusion, instead of a 2040 as on the Ender-3 not-Pro. 😉
Ok thanks because I recently just bought some for my ender three pro
Cutting the strain relief was not necessary on my printer!
Ok, good to know. On mine I felt comfortable cutting the zip ties, and I had plenty of spare ones to replace them with. 👍🏻
same here
Hello, the kit for ender 3 and ender 3pro is the same? because i read the ender 3 pro uses mk10 instead mk. thanks
Hi Bryan Great videos. Just subscribed. I am having the same issues with my nozzle not getting close enough to the print bed. The gap is huge and when I go to adjust the adjustment screws just end up coming off and there is a still a great big gap. I have ordered new springs and also a glass bed that is coming tomorrow but wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything else I needed to do before they got here.
You may need to adjust your Z axis end stop switch. Since that switch determines the “zero” position for the Z axis, if the switch is too high, the nozzle stops too far above the bed. On the left side of the frame, right next to the Z axis stepper motor, you’ll find the mounting bracket for the Z axis end stop switch.
Turn off the printer.
Loosen the two screws holding that mounting bracket to the frame, so you can move (or remove) the bracket.
Tighten the bed adjustment knobs at least halfway, maybe a little more. Try to get them compressed evenly on all four corners.
Manually turn the Z axis lead screw to bring the nozzle just touching the bed. It’s easiest to move by turning that gray aluminum coupler which is attached to the stepper motor.
Reattach the Z axis limit switch so that the switch is being pressed by the bracket on the X axis arm.
Manually turn the Z axis lead screw to get the nozzle a few millimeters above the bed, then turn on the printer, click the knob to get into the menus, go to Prepare, and Auto Home. When the printer homes the Z axis, the nozzle should be just a smidgen above the bed, and you should be able to adjust the bed knobs to get the bed height set properly.
Good luck!
@@BV3D Thanks so much. Finally got it working. Love your videos.
i had a problem with my springs, they were too big it seems because my nozzle basically drills into the bed
i have the same problem
try moving the z endstop up
Important step missing...
Totally not relevant to me, but always good to have as reference to point others towards if need be :) Keep up the good work!
Haha! Thanks, Welbot! I know you're a resin-based printer guy, but I do appreciate you watching and commenting!
Don't do what I did. I thought the Spring by the Heater cable (bottom left) had popped out and I installed the yellow spring BELOW the Heater plate bit. Now I had TWO Springs installed...666 attempts at levelling the Bed and nearly contacting the Mental Ward to vountarily commit myself I decided to re-install the original Springs....I cursed myself for letting the original Spring 'pop' out and looked everywhere! It was later I noticed the original Spring was still in place!
I had TWO Springs installed on lower left corner and could not level my Bed despite moving the Z-Switch UP-DOWN-UP-DOWN 333 times.
I hope this helps someone because this was an experience where I nearly lost my mind and smashed my Ender 3 up.
haha
easy to do lol
Great instructions but I still have a bit of a problem leveling my bed. It seems the strain relief flexes the corner of the bed itself upwards and no matter what I do I cant seem to get it leveled, anyone have any tips??
dikke j maybe try and print a replacement strain relief arm?
I put the yellow springs on my Ender 3. The issue I'm facing is that the springs/knobs don't have enough travel to do the leveling. They lose all tension before I can level. any suggestions? Thanks
did a little more trial and error. I decided to move the vertical switch up a few milometers so that the springs would have a little more travel. Is this the right way to do it?
Look like copper
i have replace the springs with the springs what you say but no i have the problem i can not printing, stay not stack on the bed anymore what i also do nozzle to high to bed then to low i can not get it done. Please can you helped me i have a bltouch.