ROOF TRUSSES: Pros, cons, and costs!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Matt goes over the pros, cons, and costs of roof trusses. Learn more about this Builders FirstSource product: www.bldr.com/p...
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As a 29 year firefighter I absolutely hate trusses. In a fire event, when a 1/4" on each side of the wood is charred, the wood still has plenty of strength, BUT the nail plates simply fall off, causing the roof to collapse.
There are plenty of videos where truss roofs collapse within 15 minutes of the fire start. That's why many fire departments don't even attempt an interior attack, which is the most effective, but rather go defensive from the outside, which then often leads to a total loss.
Calculate that against the $7k savings.
The fire protection comes from the plasterboard/sheetrock on the ceiling. You only need enough time to get out of the building safely, which in the UK is 39 mins, nobody is going to try to salvage a burnt out building. if the sheetrock isn't in place then it's during construction which is a different thing.
Simple don’t turn your house into a tiki torch. If it ever gets to a point where the fire is so big the trusses are failing I think I’d rather tear the whole thing down and start over regardless
@@GraemeFugaccia What about an electrical fire? And most places that have fires don't get knocked down, the fire gets put out and the building gets repaired. Trusses and lightweight construction can fail under fire conditions as quickly as 5 minutes from initial impingement on the structure.
@@rezzbuilds8343 lightweight construction can fail within 5 minutes of impingement on the structure itself, those little gussets pop off in high heat conditions, builders look to maximize profits at the expense of the fire service. There are issues across the building industry where the resilience of the structure against fire is compromised for "better" and more cost effective methods.
@@ryanpascuzzi8604 it must be a different attitude in the UK, firefighters don't go into buildings if there's no one in the building they just let it go and contain it therefore saving firefighters lives, an insured building is not worth the life of a firefighter. Your talking about risking firefighters lives to save the insurance company a bit of money. The occupants and firefighters lives are most important
I want to build three different sheds, one is already set up. I am pleased to find all the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 plans and designs for the three sheds included in Ryan's shed plans And how very easy they all are to set up following the detailed instructions on the manual and DVDs. This is simply fantastic!
I design these systems in the Midwest. Clear spanning large open areas is one of the major benefits you've missed out on in this video. Plus we design top down for the best value engineering. Having proper load transfer from top to bottom is another great benefit to truss systems. Glad you did a video, maybe visit a plant sometime, I can set up some tours if you need it. 😉
What is the maximum reasonable span distance? Is this limited by span, height, or both?
Can you do an attic room style truss?
These are super cool man.
@@JL10007406 we've just put up 90' clear span within the last few months. I know we've sent out 100' clear span trusses before as well. On longer trusses like that we're designing camber into the bottoms to let the truss settle into a final straight layout after installation. Max height of a single truss is typically at 14' but we can stack multiple trusses together with proper bracing to achieve a taller roof height if needed. Room in attics can be loaded for RTU, living area, or light storage. The height of the room only limited by the pitch and heel height. Awesome questions!
Right and I think the clear span you can achieve with trusses is the biggest reason to go with trusses and they didn’t cover that.
@@cherrytsume thank you for the reply!
For conditioned room in attics, can customers define the dimensions of the top member? If I wanted 2x6 or 2x8 lumber, for example, can I pay extra for that additional cavity depth without triggering extensive engineering work? I don't like exterior foam insulation for environmental reasons. The ability to use cavity insulation inside the sheathing would be attractive, but infeasible if the member thickness was only 3.5".
@@JL10007406 Most attic trusses have a minimum 2x6 for the top chords due to the lack of triangulation withing the room space. We can even frame in a small floor truss in the middle to provide space to run plumbing and hvac for your attic living areas as well. It's fairly common for our customers to request a southern pine 2x10 or 2x8 top chord for that additional interior insulation space just like how you're mentioning. Another great question!
The manufactured trusses can be engineered to have plenty of attic space. The cost savings is worth it by itself. As Matt said at the end, that money can be used in a different part of the house to upgrade insulation, better windows, larger island, etc in a part of the house that you'll spend a lot more time in.
Regular roof framing is worth the cost. The usable space is worth it. Never met a homeowner that built a house that complained about too much room.
Yea,try and crawl in this roof for anything.
You can spec them anyway you want. The McMansion they are building next door has 18 inch shoulder for insulation and fully open and will be playrooms and HVAC with storage over a huge open living room.
I have a trussed roof and the top floor is a master suite with an angled ceiling with skylights and dormers.
Plus the taller lumber makes insulating at the roof line easier
In some parts of the country that’s fine, but here in the north that is all insulated space. We blow 30 or more inches of insulation in attics.
Great comparison. As a builder in the north, we use trussed roof systems about 90% of the time. If we hand stack a roof, it's usually because we either need the ceiling to match the roof pitch, such as the 12/12 A-frame style we're currently on, or some other restrictions. For us, it really is a matter of time savings on the job site, but the ability to clear span large spaces is very benificial. However, make no mistake, just because you're using trusses, doesn't mean just anyone can do the job. Simple, gable style roofs are easy, but just like hand stacked roofs, things get tricky when you start building in hips and valleys. And, a quality product (home) starts with the foundation and walls below. If they aren't square, plumb and straight, you're going to struggle with the roof. Trusses and hand stacking are both great and should be used in appropriate situations.
Great video. The houses I built for myself and my family I always what we called it back in the day stick built. Nothing wrong with today’s engineer roof trusses I just didn’t want them on my house. I did use engineered floor joists. Also I used a framing crew that was older guys. Took a little longer but they new what to do and how to do it. I live in a coastal hurricane area. It’s just my opinion but with all the strapping it’s just stronger to me.
Back in the late '60's early'70'S.......pre-built/ordered trusses was a new big thing. My father built a specialty custom home with a SLATE ROOF, with high pitch and many hips and valleys. He DOUBLE ordered all trusses/ +1 for gable ends/ 2×6 truss. On site he DOUBLED UP (2 put togeater as one) placed in a jig and adhesived and staggered screwed each togeather....and placed them 12" on center. Back then TECO's was not really a thing, so each doublet was strapped and nailed to the plate. 5/8" 5 ply sheathing and Back then we only had heavy tar felt. THAT SLATE andCopper valley roof ridge is still straight as an arrow and proud to be seen 50+ years old now.
City required a preman roof truss system on my home build myself structure and actually was a good thing. Saved me a lot of time and in FL using the beefiest hurricane clips that are u shaped I just set each truss self standing into clips...Everything I did I beefed up well beyond minimum codes from foundation to 16"oc, to complete hardi exterior...
Man. I wish you did ICF pour with the entire first floor as a garage. When that wind and water blows in FL a steel roof and concrete will protect you
Yup (former firefighter here), those metal connections would fail early. Compared to rafters, truss roofs are death traps and we would avoid getting on the roof and efforts/decisions to enter a home for a rescue are affected by the likelihood of a structure to fail. Thank you for the video.
Yep the gusset plates are a weakness of those pre-fab trusses in the event of a fire
how do the metal connections fail early? i assume that the wood around the connection burns away and the plate falls off, unlike a nailed or hangered connection where the fasteners are much deeper in the wood. Are there papers on this that you know of? i know NFPA and IBC love doing real world testing on this kind of thing.
The shortcomings of these pressed plates can be offset with a few wood screws! It should be code required!
@@Cynyr Two things actually happen. One, the wood burns away resulting in a loss of contact with the gusset plate. Two, the gusset plate will actually warp and draw the teeth out of the wood it is holding together. These two criteria can result in premature roof failure. I wish I could comment with pictures as I have a couple that show this perfectly.
@@kristensorensen2219
Framers not needing as much experience is a pro and a con. I'm drywalling a house right now that the framing crew clearly didn't have much experience, and they've screwed up in ways I didn't think possible with trusses. There's a big vaulted ceiling that joins a flat ceiling, and the lines are definitely not straight. I still haven't figured out how I'm going to fix it. Of course when it doesn't look good nobody thinks it is the fault of the framer, is just the drywall guy must suck. I'll bet there's not a square corner anywhere in the house. All the exterior wall headers are leaning out at the tops, and not by an 1/8 or 1/4, I'm taking at least a half inch. Walls are out of plumb by a half inch in four feet. I could go on and on. Cheaper and faster does not equal better.
As a home inspector I have to explain this to my clients constantly.
I agree 100% It looks fine until you plane it across and it’s off. The difference between look after framing and the look after drywall need to be within 5% of each other minimum but it’s typically not that in production framing where trusses are more often used
An 8’ wall that’s 1” out of plumb is crazy. Are you going to rock it?
It’s crazy to think of the lipstick that gets put on some pigs.
@@johnlee7085 it's already hung, we didn't have a choice. There was no way to fix this wall really.
btyer… So how out of plumb is too much?
Done enough rehab that out of square is basically expected but out of plumb is a completely different issue.
I also appreciate the challenge of the drywallers, both having done a bit as well as the business aspect. If you aren’t willing to hide the framers garbage, they’ll find someone else that will.
Many people commented that you didn't mention one OBVIOUS advantage to trusses and that is the ability to have long clear spans,
Seems like if the cost savings is from producing them in a factory then just installing them onsite you could have a traditional roof prefabbed and delivered in nearly the same way. That way you still get an attic with your house.
Thanks for the free education as always. Watched tons of your videos- subscribed, the whole lot.
I just waited 9 months for trusses from our local truss plant, building is crazy in Florida and they require a lot of extras for hurricane wind load and up lift. If my plans weren’t already engineered I would’ve conventional hand framed it and would’ve been done with the house by now.
Enjoyed the video. Of course one of the other advantages to a truss system is you can span greater distances and there's no need for a center beam. Much more flexible. Separately, don't worry about lead times; the real estate crash is well underway, and demand will fall off a cliff if it hasn't already.
Dow just dropped 500 and may go lower. SALE EVERYTHING!!!!
@@TdrSld don't you mean but buy buy? If you're looking to sale your a few weeks late.
@@TdrSld sell
@@rj.parker Sale - the exchange of a commodity for money; the action of selling something
@@tysleight This was a job about Jim Cramer. The man always yells Sale Sale Sale when shit drops it's stupid.
1-2 weeks leadtime!!! amazing! -- In South Florida we were out 3-4 weeks pre-pandemic, looking at 16 to 24 weeks depending in the area now. Love this channel!!
Question for all you professional builders...who typically installs the roof trusses? A traditional framer that does floors, walls, and sheathing? Or are there specific truss installers that are hired for this stage of the building process?
I picked out roof truss in the attic style and it turned out amazing. I has almost the same space as Matts attic.
Great tips with storage, thank you Matt and team.
Going to use BFS more now after this video! Thanks.
I’m currently framing house with 12/12 and 10/12 trusses. Lots of fun tying in the multiple roof systems
💯Thank Tou Matt
Need context to define what $7k savings is... 10 - 7 is way different than 100 - 7 ...but we never heard a total for either roof system.
Maybe you can do an actual cost comparison of various COMPLETED roof systems in a future vid, to include SIPS, ICF deck, vented double decking, ridge vent, full closed cell, 1" closed cell w/batt, batt only, tar shingle, clay tile, metal tile, standing seam... various combos?
A vid like that'd be 99% research & scripted, with charts. Bit different than the norm for this channel, & extremely helpful.
I appreciate the discussion of fire endurance that is not usually considered in much of these comparisons. We (FFs) have to be aware that any fire that breaches the inner passive protective elements in a modern building risks early structural collapse. There are unfinished basements without the certain and early knowledge that all occupants have escaped. Which means there are occupants and FFs that are in there. There is much less room for error. All framing options that rely more on connections vs more mass of wood is devastated much quicker in a fire. It really is math vs mass. Wood burns approximately 1” per hour. These truss connections that are galvanized steel fail much quicker (minutes) in a fire. Steel doesn’t burn but curls up and looses it’s strength and the little teeth pull out of the wood or a fraction of an inch of wood burns away from the connection. People also want large open floor spans and this compounds the problem. Large dimension lumber is at a premium. The full dimension lumber is less dependent on the connection and is more dependable for an occupant or FF. The quality of the structural connections is key to structural stability in a modern building once the fire breaches the passive fire protection (i.e. drywall). Fire endurance should not be discounted as a consideration and should be a higher priority. Remember the World Trade Center fell due to an out of control fire and steel trusses that gave way before the occupants including their rescuers could exit. The building was dependent on the sprinkler system that was knocked out. There was no effective steel protection left. This was the modern lightweight design.
big challenge with truss roofs is how the ceiling pitch for sissor trusses is half the pitch of the roof pitch, so 12:12 roof pitch gives you 6:12 ceiling pitch for cathedral vault. people like their vaults steeper. so we generally stick frame focal cathedral vaults.
With a slightly taller heel we can make a parallel chord truss with the same top pitch as lower pitch. Can be provided as a single piece or for larger spans such as a 40' wide great room/ living room we could do as a 2 piece that connects with a LVL ridge beam and some hangers.
@@cherrytsume yes! I recently learned about parallel chord trusses and love them. No ridge board to support so we can maximize gable end windows.
My house is steel frame tri-story with 6 inch concrete poured floors. Surprised not more steel frame homes. Recyclable and actual true walls.
This was a good show!!!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Why no reflective back roof sheathing in the hot Texas climate?
I'm a remodeler and haven't built more than additions or garages from scratch. Everything was traditionally built. But now that I'm in Florida, I've been told that trusses are 12-18 months out. If it's true, that's a HUGE difference.
I truss this guy with my life
Matt, I jumped on the notification for this because I am currently looking at learning more about truss roofs. However, I was looking for info on truss roofs when wanting to add an attic space to a garage. Could you touch on how much extra load or what sorts of modifications can be done to a truss roof above a garage when waning to add an attic/crawl space? In my situation, it's 24" center, off center peak. The previous owner added a Warner fold down ladder and laid 1/2" ply down all over. We keep light stuff up there. I have been looking at how I might bolster so I can increase the load. I have thought to add an H beam down the middle with a post or H-beam span the width and run 2x10 under the truss to bolster a section.
Went to BFS the other day in Austin for some 26 foot 2x 12. We made the trip because they said they had them. Paid for em and got to the yard, and they did not have any. Frustrating. It was for a garage ceiling, so we got TGI instead. My dad looking at hindsight, thinks he would have stickframed the roof of the house, and then got trusses for the garage.
No such thing as a TGI, it's TJI. The word Joist starts with a "J".
Intern architect that just subscribed - "On the Build Show (Matt Voice)" :)
Japan we hand calculate and cut all roofs, roads are to small to transport, we do make our own trusses if the transport road is clear.
Can you stick frame a 60x40? Without bearing walls?
Thanks a MILLION. (very soon!)
Matt, do you ever do any subterranean or earth-sheltered projects?
I think the most subterranean he gets is with basement foundations, and that’s rare where he is
Yea, he bought a grave plot
Would’ve loved to do traditional rafters and get that extra space, but since we are building our house ourselves we went with trusses due to the time it saves us to install and the cost.
Did you install them yourselves or have someone do it?
He said the plates are stainless? That doesn't seem right. If water gets to them, the house has more problems than rusty truss plates... I've never seen stainless for these fasteners. Galvanized, maybe.
While Stainless Steel plates are available; those shown are Galvanized. The stacked chords under the mechanical area is also allowing for full insulation depth when a structure is conventionally insulated. IE not a conditioned attic. Trusses protect homeowners from a builder/framer that over or under sizes members to make things "easy" or save costs.
Would you ever build a truss for external walls and supportive walls? Would you ever put in a bold through the metal links on a truss.
Problem is most young framers today can’t frame a stick roof , have no idea how to use a framing square
Then they aren't actually framers...
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 true , but Unfortunately they’re out there claiming to be because they can put up a few walls and then throw trusses on top of it
@@fuzion430journey3 Yeah that sucks, people don't take pride in actually learning their trade anymore.
I'm a drywall guy and I bet I know more about framing than some of these crews. It's ridiculous. Trusses have enabled that.
Option C: factory precut all stick frame members and label them. Same dummy labor force and you get a real attic.
Same dummy labor force probably built and levelled the walls and installed the beams.
Matt, how do these compare with a SIPs roof? Especially with respect to the insulative properties that come built into the SIPs.
Is there traditional rafters/ridges/dormers pre cut and delivered like a pre cut ink jet framing package?
I am claustrophobic so cathedral ceiling is must, it's more work but I prefer I-Joist.
You guys illustrate the distinction between engineered trusses and hand-sawn rafters by suggesting that trusses must necessarily have little triangles everywhere but it seems to me that trusses can have as much open space as you'd like. That's what engineering is all about, is it not?
How would you isolate this from the inside? And how would you apply a vapor barrier screen?
If you're building massive homes like this that 99% of us can't afford, trusses almost always make the most sense. Basic gable roof, rafters make the most sense.
Still cheaper and more consistent to use trusses.
@@Egleu1 The 7,000 dollars stated includes labor on a very complex roof design. If your making a basic roof, rafters are cheaper material wise and labor wouldn't be a whole lot more because it is just cutting the same cut over and over. Not hard to setup a miter saw with a wing and stop block using an extra 2x6, some horses, and clamps. Cutting a birds mouth would be more time consuming unless your roof is about 45 degrees since it involves a shallow angle cut, but not much if you are skilled at cutting with hand power tools. People still use rafters for a reason. I'd use trusses if given the option but that is mostly because I'm lazier then I am frugal and if I want more strength I just put them 16-20" on center instead of 24"
@@siral2000 that roof they showed is hardly complex.
I have my guys stick frame. They have the experience…trusses take 5-20 weeks to get here in NC
I'd be curious to know if the 'savings' for these are actually passed on to the homeowners, or just to the homebuilder or contractor. My guess is that it isn't.
It actually is. I am currently going through the process of building a house. I originally wanted a traditionally framed roof due to my line of work (firefighter). But I decided to go with trussing because it was a $7k to $8k cost difference.
Just depends on the contractor and the contract
@@philippenight2421 Yes, that's the key. My last build I generaled myself, so I know I got the savings as I bought my own materials, but some of the quotes I was getting from homebuilders (double the cost and more) were truly shocking.
if it's cost plus how could it not be??
Ask your builder/contractor for a price on traditional rafters vs. a truss roof.
If that extra $7000 on a 3000 sq ft house nets you another 1500 sq ft of floor space (attic bonus room perhaps), that extra 1500 sq ft only cost $4.67 per sq ft.
When you see PM written by a plate what's the abbreviation mean?
What about standard roof framing using TJI joists? I know it is done, curious about what people think about it?
What about insulation, air sealing?
I recently had all my blown-in fiberglass insulation sucked out of my attic so I can get better air sealing of every penetration and wall ceiling connection. Then I had cellulose insulation blown back in to a R-50 here in Wisconsin. I also replaced a bathroom exhaust fan as part of the project (did it myself). I was cursing my trusses every minute I was up there. Also, I probably paid more to have the insulation removed because of the truss system. I wish I had cut roof system. My next house won’t have trusses. The cost savings up front isn’t worth it if you need to get back up in the attic.
Should I get a lower framing bid when using roof trusses be stick framed roof in general? I’m sure there is nuance here but just as a yes or no.
I feel like there could be a balance, the trusses with a useable void seems like a good option.
Although I would wonder if moving the void out to the eaves makes the truss design easier since there’s less (additional void storage) load right in the center.
How do these work w/ spray foam insulation? I know mechanically it's not an issue - it'll still stick just fine. But the insulation spraying access to all parts of the roof when having to go through the trusses must be very difficult, and hard to get to the edges effectively. I would think that would make for insulation issues at these spots.
I think it is worth spending extra 7k for storage and future living possibilities.
In FL we are waiting 28-35 weeks for trusses… I almost died when he said 4 weeks lead times.
Can trusses be built with a "whole" in the middle? Maybe something to get the best of both worlds?
I live in a house that has traditional rafters that were reinforced into a truss at a later date.
Is it not possible to prefab trusses with larger interior space? I can understand the advantages of the internal cross supports, but is it not possible to engineer with open interior space or is it just that the cost savings would disappear? Or?
It takes a crew of 3 2 days to cut , frame and sheath a roof like that, depending how complicated the initial setting of the ridge is
$7,000 seems like false economy considering you lose the square footage in your attic. Instead of maybe 1,000 sf of storage, you have a forest of lumber. Access is also hindered. Dislike crawling through trusses to add a light or fix some issue. All are benefits to the owner but a cost to the builder, so classic trade-off.
Are there truss designs that are more open? Basically shop-built 2-by semi-modular construction.
Yes, you can request and have engineered a floored room inside the truss for storage, HVAC, or other mechanicals. It does depend on your area, wind load, and snow loads as to how big that can be.
Yes, they're called attic trusses. They'll have an open box in the center.
Agree with false economy. For a single family home, the loss of the storage space doesn't justify such small savings (that is likely not entirely passed on the the homeowner anyway) . I don't think building a house cheap with no flexibility is the way to go. As you mentioned with conventional framing you may be getting a 2400 sf house with 1000 sf of storage, compared to a truss house with 2400 sf living and 200 sf of storage(occupied with a HVAC system). While one may be cheaper than the other, you have two different products. There are may applications where trusses would be ideal such as apartments, large sheds and commercial leasing applications where no storage is permitted or desired. I know you can add additional storage platforms to trusses but when you put large block-outs in a truss it becomes less efficient and starts to mimic a stick built system, and savings are reduced.
@@TheModelmaker123 In the upper midwest, most houses have basements for much more convenient storage(HVAC is down there), attic access is usually a small scuttle hole in a closet or maybe the garage, and the attic is 2' deep in insulation. I think the tradeoffs vary by geographic location.
@@ryknoll3 Yep, In the south there are generally no basements and AC units are in the attic to conserve living space.
Random question Matt, not sure if you addressed this before and i missed it, but with how tight you are building houses, how do the houses pressure equalize if a tornado comes near by and causes a sudden pressure drop? I recall always being told to crack some windows in severe weather to allow it to equalize with causing explosive decompression thru the windows but not many people seem to do or know that these days. do you install some kind of spring loaded pressure blow off vents?
The debris in a tornado will take care of any pressure issues. Ever see a 2x4 get shot at tornado speed. It goes through concrete blocks like a knife through butter.
@@mdhofstee i think you missed the part where a tornado a mile a way makes all of your windows explode and the rest of the house is fine.... especially if you are using these new high efficiency windows that cost much more.
It seems to me that trusses result in a lower quality/less even structure more often than not. If there is bad lumber or tolerances there's not much that can be done in the field, resulting in greater chance for lumpy ceiling and roof planes. Trusses do have their advantages though.
Are you speaking from experience, having seen many of these flaws?
@@steelddd yes my own home, as well as others around me when they were built with trusses. My framer did the best he could but I still ended up with a lot of uneven roof and ceiling areas.
Trusses, being engineered are almost always going to be stronger and more consistent though. Lumpy ceiling and roofs would be from using crappy material like 7/16 roof sheathing.
I would never go hand cut.
FYI the "time savings=cost savings" only holds true for the GC and SC. If you're having a house built, you ain't saving a thing.
There are many different types of contracts…
Yes they won't go in truss houses on fire in my area. They know the neighborhoods
Hello, just wondering if you ever heard of truss lift? The problem with the bottom of the truss lifting up during the the summer months then lowering back down during the winter months.
Came here for this. Dealing with uplift in my house. 😢
@@mattgraff ,I am sorry you are dealing with truss lift . When I built a new house ,20 years ago , I was told the trusses would be uniformly 2x4 s . I thought the engineering was inadequate , and I insisted on 2x6 bottom chords . Works like a charm ; no truss lift
Good luck to you.
Most my customers want trusses over hand stack to eliminate the structural engineering costs. Trusses are provided with engineering and my area the building dept. requires the roof engineered.
Cost savings for framing clearly a win, but expect difficulty for access for sealing and spray foaming under roof and inside attic gable walls for a “conditioned” attic. Ability to add plywood flooring to improve ability to move is nearly impossible. Ability to inspect quality of caulk and insulation much more difficult. Probably best used in unconditioned attics, I would think.
I was wondering about this as well. How do you insulate? And how do you work in the attic after completion where you can't step on anything? I think insulation is less bad, since it can be done before the drywall is up, with more access. For access after completion, I'm thinking to engineer in walkways to allow plywood to be put down. Opinions?
10 years ago, I was ‘always’ asked to design a “hand cut” roof…now, all my designs are default to roof-trusses. No questions asked anymore….
Trim ,cabinets ,cmt block,shingles,windows ,concrete ,drywall,doors ,hardware,every stick of wood is built/mixed made off-site.
Framing is assembly,of materials made off-site period.
I can tell he grew up in the south with his 'Yes Sir's' its not a knock its a sign of respect I love about the south but it gets a little too much when he says it everytime he answers a question.
Plates are galvanized steel, stainless is a specialty product.
Wish it was two week lead time around here. Right now it's 8+ weeks.
As a firefighter I will be building my forever home with hand cut rafters . Yes I do understand the need for truss construction especially for build time and cost savings . To me the benefits of hand cut rafters out weigh the need of truss roofs. Being on a truck company during an attic fire especially on top of a truss roof construction vs hand cut rafter roofs during a fire is noticeably different. For me as a firefighter knowing your construction gives me an idea of time on a roof to work. We all know that truss plates on roofs will fail with heat/ fire. So now add a cement tile/ Mexican tile shingles plus firefighters with gear on top of a roof that’s been compromised due to heat/ fire can be sketchy. Truss roofs have their place in construction and at the end if it’s a custom home the owner should have the final say in the matter at least in my option.
Matt lookin like earthworm Jim 😂
The main problem is that, as anyone in the UK knows, after about a month you gotta replace them with roof Sunaks.
Cool
We need an App for the build show network! Many of us watch on our smart tvs, not some small phone or computer screen!
Your smart tv has TH-cam already
@@johnscott2076 Right but the videos over on the Build Show Network are not on youtube.
Ask your local Fire Chief about trussed roofing? Trussed Roofs are death traps for Firemen when a building has a fire! Most trussed roofs collapse during extension of fire to attic or roof area. Ask you local Insurance underwriter about the cost of stick built roof vs trussed roof!
If people knew who’s is out their these days Framing homes they would chose trusses every time especially in Texas so many areas are out of city limits and don’t require Inspections.
A good friend of mine is building a house as I write this. He has 4400 sq ft under roof and it’s a custom built home with 8-12 pitch roof, single story. Complex roof design with dormers. He is in day 9 of construction and the he’s ready for shingles. There is no way truss roofing would have been faster. I totally disagree with this builder in the video.
We all know Matt strongly prefers actual rafter roofs, he's only doing this video for the sponsorship smh
Is it wrong to show other options?
Unfortunately its ALWAYS follow the money!
My personal preference would be for an ICF roof, but that would be rather difficult (not impossible) with a roof pitched to shed heavy snow loads (8:12 or steeper). I know the LiteDeck system is rated for up to a 7:12 pitch.
Have you priced LiteDeck?? I just got pricing starting at $55 a Sq foot. For a 2000 Sq ft roof it's 110k! And I still have to insulate and cover! I was floored with the pricing.
@@joeywharton5662 No, we're still in the dreaming stages. Actually the LD foam should provide a lot of the insulation value so all that would have to be done is some form of covering or finishing.
@@michiganengineer8621 there are different R values available, 3 I think, but non of them was high enough for my zone (5). The lowest R was $55. They didn't give pricing for the higher values. The float floor was $45 a Sq ft. That was installed.
Just looked in my documentation, I was quoted R26. System goes up to R50. IMO the cost is astronomical
@@joeywharton5662 Was that quote for the SRS or the WRS LiteDeck? Either way I agree the cost is extremely high, although you'd never have to worry about tornadoes again!
$7k savings doesn't tell me much. If going from $10k to $3k cost that is very substantial, but going from $1MM to $993,000 cost is rather insignificant. Both scenarios save $7k. Any idea how much the net savings are on a percentage basis?
“...doesn’t tell me much”? Actually, as you even reiterate, it tells you everything. BOTH SCENARIOS SAVE $7K.
A flat $7k savings is going to be a wildly different percentage based on your own examples.
1:28
Why TF do people design or want jaunty houses like that? That's heinous.
I agree, very ugly. I think people get bored of seeing old architecture/styles so they want to do something unique or trendy. Sorta like the pink and purple bathrooms of the 1960’s lol
Trusses always cost more than stock framing. Plus the wait times now are crazy. Trusses work best where it’s clear span.
The other thing is that trusses are engineered, that means they’ll hold the minimum they are designed to hold, no extra.
Not if snow loads are a factor. What would take 2x10's 16" oc can be accomplished with a truss that has a 2x6 top cord, 2x4 bottom cord, and 24" oc. You can't buy the material for a snow rated hand cut roof for less than a truss package. We typically have full basements so storage isn't a concern. We need space for r50, 60, 70 in the attic and HVAC never goes above the ceiling this far North (that's what the basement is for). The only thing that gets hand cut around here are very small and/or odd sections of roof like above bay windows or a dormer roof.
Electrician here. I'd rather wire a stick built generally.
Trusses are becoming more common as the knowledge and talent required to build a hand cut roof retire. Saying that trusses are no waste is unrealistic. There’s waste. Just not on the job. Anything built in a factory is never as quality controlled as custom built. Saying trusses are a straighter, flatter roof is just a sales pitch or something someone who’s never actually installed them would say.
At 1:05 there are no joist hangers!! Why wouldn’t they do that?! They are just toenailed in!!
"$7,000 on a house like this"
like what? how much is that house? looks big.
He said it was 3k square feet.
If money isn't an issue, traditional rafters using engineered lumber is the way to go.
you get more space with large trusses, why did you say less space ?
You’re not calculating the additional square footage you game and the value that adds to the house savings becomes a moot point
Not coastal but your in TORNADO alley
If you want R-60 to R-100 roof in the north, raised heel trusses with 16+" blown in insulation is the best way to go. You simply can't do a high heel with stick framing, most I seem is 10" which would equal to R-40 on top of all exterior walls.
The energy bleed happens in the vent tubing from HVAC, have it all in "conditioned spaces", specifically attics in the hotter climates or colder climates. I live and work in a hot climate and prefer hand cut rafters still, but I do get the benefit on speed with trusses, especially if you are not going to condition that attic/HVAC vent tube runs. As an industry, with every study showing vent tube losses upwards of 40%, we just haven't evolved from a product perspective to solve that effectively. It's not a builder thing, it's an HVAC industry thing.
@@iamblaineful In cold climate, you don't really see hvac runs in attics, most are in a basement or floor joists. I think in south it's hard to dig a basement cause it's only like a foot of soil so they put everything in the attic. yea they do a crappy job of it and the attic should be conditioned in that case. Everything is like flipped between cold and hot climates lol