Thanks for the video. I installed a HE240 this weekend. It was fairly easy to install. I had to use a PEX valve instead of the provided saddle valve for the water hookup. At first I used the compression fitting inserts that came with the saddle valve (the brass insert and plastic ferrule). The fitting leaked horribly. I went to home depot and got a new brass insert and ferrule from a different manufacturer and that worked great.
I am in the middle of installing an HE280, as my previous HE220 solenoid valve was stuck and wasting water going through continuously (probably related to hard water deposits). I had to cut the opening in my return duct larger for the HE280 and slightly shorten the air bypass duct length. Then I found that the quick connect on the valve leaks water no matter how carefully and firmly I push in the plastic tubing. Will go to a hardware store tomorrow and try replacing the quick connect adapter. I wish the instructions would have the option to omit the pressure switch, as I don't see the need for it if I use the 24VAC power from my furnace circuit board that already cuts power when the fan is not running. I will figure that out after fixing the water leak.
I have the HE280 that was professionally installed. The water pump does not work and I am unable to contact Honeywell for a replacement! Any recommendations?
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Just found a unit on clearance for 70$... Debating it because I feel like there are better options out there and if I get that many years out of it I'll likely opt for something a tad more "smart" in terms of controls or at least connected to an app to manage the unit's settings. Would you buy this unit again or move on something better?
Adjust the air flow knob "summer/winter" down a notch as to not suck moisture into the combustion chamber. I noticed the deposits above the furnace body. this is my experience anyway.
Hey Jett! My bro and I recently installed the HE280 model on his furnace. The part that takes the most patience is the duct cutting. Aside from that, it was not hard at all. I think I see one problem with this installation though (I know you didn't do it). The air goes from the humidifier itself, to the return duct that it is connected to. It looks like the previous homeowner installed the humidistat AFTER the duct that the air goes through from the unit. That will create a false reading I think, because the newly humidified air is now hitting the humidistat instead of the ambient air from your return vents, which will not make it cycle correctly.
I have a powered HE300 Honeywell Humidifier, and it can actually run without the furnace calling for heat (the humidifier kicks on the fan when needed). I have issues reaching 40% humidity when it's 25F outside. You said your humidifier is great even in negative degrees F...do you live in a humid climate? I'm curious, as it's cold AND dry outside, and I want to make sure my humidifier is working correctly. Thanks!
If my attic isn't vented (old farmhouse, previous owner covered the gable-end vents too) should I be worried about mold growing in the attic with one of these? There is a lot of cellulose insulation in the attic, but it is not air sealed.
Buy a cheap hygrometer, like the ones used for cigar cases. Take readings off it. If the humidity up there is over 50 percent, that's too high and promotes growth.
@@ldlink3935 The moist air will damage your heat exchange. Need the hot air to move the moisture. Also I think you need to hook up hot water to the line. It will evaporate much easier then cold. If you hook up cold water on the cold air side. You have no heat to evaporate the water. Also no to the filter question. It runs through the cold air intake into unit and to the heated side. This avoids passing it over the exchange.
i just installed mine, and the directions say you can install it either way. just make sure you install the humidistat upstream (before) the humidified air goes into the duct not after.
I installed the same humidifier after watching your review. I have a few questions 1- On the Humidistat it indicates as it gets colder to turn your humidistat down. Ex: -20C they want you to turn the dial to 20-25% (I understand that it helps reduce moisture on the windows but when you bring your levels that low won't you be uncomfortable as its outside the comfort zone? 2- You said that it takes minutes When you adjust your desired setting on your humidistat. My house was at 30% and I had my humidistat up to 40% for hours when it was -29C outside and it was not going up at all. Am I doing something wrong?
Depends on a number of factors. How large is your home? What part of the planet, your at? How well your home is insulated. The unit only can deliver so much moisture, per day! Who sized the unit?
I was wondering the same thing when I watched this video...it seems counter intuitive, typically, the colder it gets, the more dry the air becomes....hence, the need to add more humidity to the air, not less. I wish someone could explain that, I guess it could be the water on the window thing, but they should just leave that up to the owner and let them know---"hey, you will get condensation on the window or cold walls if the temperature drops too low and you don't decrease the humidity". Maybe the lower percentage for lower temperatures means that is the anticipated natural humidity in the house, and the humidifier will crank out more humidity??? I know your comment was 2 years ago, did you try the recommended setting? Did you ever get it to work? What was your solution...replaced the model?
Question: The last house I lived in had an aprilaire humidifier that was awesome when it worked. Now, I live in the St. Louis area and calcium is a problem in our water. Almost every year I had to rebuild or replace the celinode on the humidifier in our old house. In our new house we don't have a humidifier yet and I was wondering if you've experienced any problems with the celinode on this unit? Any information would be awesome. Thanks a lot.
Question for you..I installed my Honeywell and I love it! I hooked mine right into the terminal in my furnace that was marked humidifier being that I didn't have an outlet near by. Was that not an option for you with yours being you plugged into into an outlet on its own. Just curious! I was so hesitant to cut that hole into my duct work but I just made the plunge and did it..SO glad I installed it!
That's interesting! I'm not sure if that's an option on my furnace, but that would have its advantages. I love ours too, very little messing around and very good results.
Cost savings is probably a myth. It takes more energy to heat up wet air than dry air. It is true that you will feel more comfortable with lower temperatures at higher humidity, and therefore there is less heatloss though the homes insulation, windows etc. but I don't believe for one second that a humidifier results in energy savings.
The claim is that you can turn your heat down slightly, and the humid air will feel warmer. We keep our heat at the same setting, so I'd tend to agree with you.
in the summer go outside when it is 85 degrees. does it not feel hotter when the humidity is high? same thing indoors, in winter in feels warmer with higher humidity, so you can lower the temperature, saving energy. it also keeps your wood furniture from drying out. makes it last longer. think about it, it is no myth!!!
I purchased and installed this unit 3 weeks ago. It is going through A LOT of water. Like 15 to 20 Gallons per day!!! Where I live, they charge us for our water usage. This was supposed to save me money on my heating bill, yet it is now costing me MUCH more money in water bills. This is unacceptable. Can anyone please provide a means of using a closed loop system for the water supply (which i would top up manually as needed), or some other way to reduce the water usage but still get the right humidity level for my home? Otherwise this product is useless for anyone who pays for water usage. BUT, humidification is necessary for a furnace as not having proper humidification will cause respiratory problems for adults and especially children. I will not be able to recommend this product to anyone unless can figure out how to reduce this water consumption. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
That water usage is normal with these types of humidifiers, I don't know where they pull their max 12 gal number but its bogus. Depending on the outside temp mine uses about 6 to 9 liters per heat cycle ( the water valve is only open when the furnace is fired) I see this on my digital water meter. I call BS at 5:19 with his water estimate, you know he never measured it.
@@jonsmith7667 What I did was install a SharkBite valve on my cold water line and connected the water feed line to the SharkBite valve. This way I can control with the valve the water flow to the unit. With the unit running I look at the amount of water that is flowing out of the drain tube. I adust the valve until I have a trickle coming from the drain tube. This way I know I have sufficient water flowing through the but not too much. If I opened that valve all the way, there was a ton of water going down the drain.
That does not apply to the Honeywell True Steam Unit. They recommend that you supply cold water to that unit! The reason is the filter cartridge doesn't like water thats over 90 deg. F.
That’s a terrible answer because we all know everyones water takes sometimes two minutes to get warm or hot and it’s just not running that much water to the pad continuously. Cold is the better option
waste water like a hell. I measure mine. More than 80 liter of water flow into the drain per day. Such a waste. Not environmental at all. This thing hurts the earth.
Flow down the drain? These things have a humidistat and control valve. If the humidistat is reading the setting the water valve is closed. If it's not shutting off it will flood the furnace not go down a drain.
Thanks for the video. I installed a HE240 this weekend. It was fairly easy to install. I had to use a PEX valve instead of the provided saddle valve for the water hookup. At first I used the compression fitting inserts that came with the saddle valve (the brass insert and plastic ferrule). The fitting leaked horribly. I went to home depot and got a new brass insert and ferrule from a different manufacturer and that worked great.
So, how is the HE240 working for you, can we get an update? How has water usage been? How about air quality/humidity. THanks!
Very good.
This Video is 7 years old, but still very useful to me today.
I had some issues with my humidifier recently.
Thank you.
I did too and I ended up having to replace the whole unit with the exact same model. It was cheaper than replacing all the parts.
I am in the middle of installing an HE280, as my previous HE220 solenoid valve was stuck and wasting water going through continuously (probably related to hard water deposits). I had to cut the opening in my return duct larger for the HE280 and slightly shorten the air bypass duct length. Then I found that the quick connect on the valve leaks water no matter how carefully and firmly I push in the plastic tubing. Will go to a hardware store tomorrow and try replacing the quick connect adapter. I wish the instructions would have the option to omit the pressure switch, as I don't see the need for it if I use the 24VAC power from my furnace circuit board that already cuts power when the fan is not running. I will figure that out after fixing the water leak.
I have the HE280 that was professionally installed. The water pump does not work and I am unable to contact Honeywell for a replacement! Any recommendations?
Just found a unit on clearance for 70$... Debating it because I feel like there are better options out there and if I get that many years out of it I'll likely opt for something a tad more "smart" in terms of controls or at least connected to an app to manage the unit's settings.
Would you buy this unit again or move on something better?
Adjust the air flow knob "summer/winter" down a notch as to not suck moisture into the combustion chamber. I noticed the deposits above the furnace body. this is my experience anyway.
How did you wire the unit up? I still can't get mine to work...
Did you connect the Pressure Switch, if you did how?
Hey Jett! My bro and I recently installed the HE280 model on his furnace. The part that takes the most patience is the duct cutting. Aside from that, it was not hard at all.
I think I see one problem with this installation though (I know you didn't do it). The air goes from the humidifier itself, to the return duct that it is connected to. It looks like the previous homeowner installed the humidistat AFTER the duct that the air goes through from the unit. That will create a false reading I think, because the newly humidified air is now hitting the humidistat instead of the ambient air from your return vents, which will not make it cycle correctly.
you are right, the humidistat should be before the humidified air enters the return duct for it to work correctly. good eyes.
I have a powered HE300 Honeywell Humidifier, and it can actually run without the furnace calling for heat (the humidifier kicks on the fan when needed). I have issues reaching 40% humidity when it's 25F outside. You said your humidifier is great even in negative degrees F...do you live in a humid climate? I'm curious, as it's cold AND dry outside, and I want to make sure my humidifier is working correctly. Thanks!
If my water flow into humidifier never turns off, is my shut off valve defective?
If my attic isn't vented (old farmhouse, previous owner covered the gable-end vents too) should I be worried about mold growing in the attic with one of these? There is a lot of cellulose insulation in the attic, but it is not air sealed.
Buy a cheap hygrometer, like the ones used for cigar cases. Take readings off it. If the humidity up there is over 50 percent, that's too high and promotes growth.
Shouldn't it be installed on the cool air return side ,and not the furnace side.
cool air will not keep the duct dry, so cool air duct grow mold much easier than the hot one. personal opinion!
@@hongliu5344 - You're backwards chief; Warm air is mold & mildews BEST friend!!! Grows slower in colder air.
If put on the cool air return side you would then have to send the humid air through the filter...right?
@@ldlink3935 The moist air will damage your heat exchange. Need the hot air to move the moisture. Also I think you need to hook up hot water to the line. It will evaporate much easier then cold. If you hook up cold water on the cold air side. You have no heat to evaporate the water. Also no to the filter question. It runs through the cold air intake into unit and to the heated side. This avoids passing it over the exchange.
i just installed mine, and the directions say you can install it either way. just make sure you install the humidistat upstream (before) the humidified air goes into the duct not after.
I installed the same humidifier after watching your review. I have a few questions
1- On the Humidistat it indicates as it gets colder to turn your humidistat down. Ex: -20C they want you to turn the dial to 20-25% (I understand that it helps reduce moisture on the windows but when you bring your levels that low won't you be uncomfortable as its outside the comfort zone?
2- You said that it takes minutes When you adjust your desired setting on your humidistat. My house was at 30% and I had my humidistat up to 40% for hours when it was -29C outside and it was not going up at all. Am I doing something wrong?
Depends on a number of factors. How large is your home? What part of the planet, your at? How well your home is insulated. The unit only can deliver so much moisture, per day! Who sized the unit?
I was wondering the same thing when I watched this video...it seems counter intuitive, typically, the colder it gets, the more dry the air becomes....hence, the need to add more humidity to the air, not less. I wish someone could explain that, I guess it could be the water on the window thing, but they should just leave that up to the owner and let them know---"hey, you will get condensation on the window or cold walls if the temperature drops too low and you don't decrease the humidity".
Maybe the lower percentage for lower temperatures means that is the anticipated natural humidity in the house, and the humidifier will crank out more humidity??? I know your comment was 2 years ago, did you try the recommended setting? Did you ever get it to work? What was your solution...replaced the model?
if you have moisture on your windows it will drip down to the wood and over time, make it rot.
Great video thanks. Just need to be careful to not have the setting so high that your windows have condensation on them. That will cause mould.
Question: The last house I lived in had an aprilaire humidifier that was awesome when it worked. Now, I live in the St. Louis area and calcium is a problem in our water. Almost every year I had to rebuild or replace the celinode on the humidifier in our old house. In our new house we don't have a humidifier yet and I was wondering if you've experienced any problems with the celinode on this unit? Any information would be awesome. Thanks a lot.
Funny you should ask. The solenoid just went out this year.
Does this use lots of water? In otherwords, have you seen big increase in your water bill since you installed this?
No I haven't, others have reported that they have.
Nice video. Could I ask how to shut off water to humidifier? Thanks.
there is a valve at the water supply line running to the humidifier. for summer use turn the humidistat to off.
@@davidm7824 THANKS.
Question for you..I installed my Honeywell and I love it! I hooked mine right into the terminal in my furnace that was marked humidifier being that I didn't have an outlet near by. Was that not an option for you with yours being you plugged into into an outlet on its own. Just curious! I was so hesitant to cut that hole into my duct work but I just made the plunge and did it..SO glad I installed it!
That's interesting! I'm not sure if that's an option on my furnace, but that would have its advantages. I love ours too, very little messing around and very good results.
The 240 will be perfect for my zero sq ft house
Cost savings is probably a myth. It takes more energy to heat up wet air than dry air. It is true that you will feel more comfortable with lower temperatures at higher humidity, and therefore there is less heatloss though the homes insulation, windows etc. but I don't believe for one second that a humidifier results in energy savings.
The claim is that you can turn your heat down slightly, and the humid air will feel warmer. We keep our heat at the same setting, so I'd tend to agree with you.
Sorry Gents! But the heat load numbers don't show that. Because the heat in moist air stays in the structure. Less heat loss.
@@kylew.jarratt4543 yeah go into the greenhouse, let your balls be the judge. 80F and 90 humidity = death.
in the summer go outside when it is 85 degrees. does it not feel hotter when the humidity is high? same thing indoors, in winter in feels warmer with higher humidity, so you can lower the temperature, saving energy. it also keeps your wood furniture from drying out. makes it last longer. think about it, it is no myth!!!
I purchased and installed this unit 3 weeks ago. It is going through A LOT of water. Like 15 to 20 Gallons per day!!!
Where I live, they charge us for our water usage. This was supposed to save me money on my heating bill, yet it is now costing me MUCH more money in water bills. This is unacceptable.
Can anyone please provide a means of using a closed loop system for the water supply (which i would top up manually as needed), or some other way to reduce the water usage but still get the right humidity level for my home?
Otherwise this product is useless for anyone who pays for water usage. BUT, humidification is necessary for a furnace as not having proper humidification will cause respiratory problems for adults and especially children.
I will not be able to recommend this product to anyone unless can figure out how to reduce this water consumption. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
how were you able to measure water usage?
it is easy, put the water drain line in a bucket for 24 hrs
maybe he has the the humidistat set way to high or it is not working.
That water usage is normal with these types of humidifiers, I don't know where they pull their max 12 gal number but its bogus. Depending on the outside temp mine uses about 6 to 9 liters per heat cycle ( the water valve is only open when the furnace is fired) I see this on my digital water meter. I call BS at 5:19 with his water estimate, you know he never measured it.
@@jonsmith7667 What I did was install a SharkBite valve on my cold water line and connected the water feed line to the SharkBite valve. This way I can control with the valve the water flow to the unit. With the unit running I look at the amount of water that is flowing out of the drain tube. I adust the valve until I have a trickle coming from the drain tube. This way I know I have sufficient water flowing through the but not too much. If I opened that valve all the way, there was a ton of water going down the drain.
Did you see any difference in your heating bill? It looks like you kind of didn't from other comments. Pls correct me if I'm wrong :)
Since we've kept the thermostat at 69, I don't see any noticeable difference.
Whenever you connect your water supply on humidifier you should you should connect to the hot water line.Works quicker for humidification process
Does that cause quicker corrosion of the lines and filter?
That does not apply to the Honeywell True Steam Unit. They recommend that you supply cold water to that unit! The reason is the filter cartridge doesn't like water thats over 90 deg. F.
@@kylew.jarratt4543is this model a cool humidifier or a hot humidifier?
That’s a terrible answer because we all know everyones water takes sometimes two minutes to get warm or hot and it’s just not running that much water to the pad continuously. Cold is the better option
Bought one too!!! Amazing!!!
Good choice!
Thank you for this video!!!
I love mine, easy to install..
i need to install mine
+Alvin k You won't regret it. The comfort level in your home will be leaps and bounds better.
waste water like a hell. I measure mine. More than 80 liter of water flow into the drain per day. Such a waste. Not environmental at all. This thing hurts the earth.
That's a good point. Have you tried turning down the humidity setting so the pad just stays saturated.
Should check to see if the solenoid valve is functioning properly. These solenoids are known to fail and cause water to continuously flow.
Don't trip! there Mr. Earth. Check to see that the restrictor valve is in the line. And the valve is closing when it's off. Then go hug a tree! Lol!
Hurts the earth? Please explain to me how you manage to destroy H2O?
Flow down the drain? These things have a humidistat and control valve. If the humidistat is reading the setting the water valve is closed. If it's not shutting off it will flood the furnace not go down a drain.