How to Clean / Rebuild Briggs and Stratton One Piece Flo-Jet Carburetor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
- NOTE: AFTER I MADE THE VIDEO I REALIZED I SAID THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS BACKWARDS ON THE VIDEO, THE BOTTOM SCREW ON THE BOWL IS THE HIGH SIDE/MAIN FUEL MIXTURE, THE ONE ON TOP IS THE IDLE MIXTURE, AND ALSO I SAID THE JET ON TOP, ITS ACTUALLY THE EMULSION TUBE THE JET IS THE PART INSIDE THE BOWL WHERE I WAS TALKING ABOUT BEING EASY TO STRIP OUT, SORRY ABOUT MY ERRORS, NOT REALLY USED TO MAKING VIDEOS LIKE THIS, SORRY AGAIN.
this carb is off my 12 horse briggs and stratton flathead single cylinder engine. Hope this helps you with cleaning/rebuilding briggs carburetors, i will also make one about the 2 piece carburetor too, at some point. thanks for watching and as always, feel free to comment / message me with questions and comments. thanks again.
You are a master JEDI! Today I used your guide to cleaning out the carburetor on my old Wizard lawn mower briggs and stratton 12hp and it worked like a charm.
Thank you so much
Wanted to thank you for the great vid on this carb. You explain things really well and made the job very easy for me. I also really appreciate allllll the little helpful things you mention along the way,....the kind of things you can normally only learn thru years of experience, which you obviously have. Thank you for sharing!!!! You're an excellent teacher!
Just wanted to say thanks. I did as you suggested and it started on the first try and runs smooth. Guys like you make the the internet a great tool. Much appreciated.
MarkJonesRanger Your welcome, glad to hear it helped out! Appreciate that, and thanks for watching!!!
they do sale bushings for it, but most of the time buying a new shaft fixes the problem, then reinstall the plate on it, you can the get the shaft, and probably bushings from pats small engine or tulsa engine warehouse (both online stores) or just about any lawn mower parts store can get them for you, the shaft usually costs around 10 bucks or so (plus shipping) hope this helps. thanks for watching!!!
yeah they do! no mixture adjustment, no idle adjustment, no choke no nothing hahaha i like the old ones! Thanks for Watching!!!
no problem! glad to help. sounds like a clogged jet or a sticky float. most of the time with these thats all you need to fix them because they have so much adjustment on them if its out of adjustment, unlike the new carbs briggs is putting out! thanks for watching and good luck!!!
haha thanks! Glad it helped out! Your welcome! thanks for watching!!!
@1972FordF150 i have one that used to do that. its either the carb out of adjustment (lean) or the governor needs adjusted. mine needed both! and sometimes play in the throttle plate shaft can cause air to come in the carburetor.
Hi fnaguitarplayer9 just wanted to jump on and say a huge thank you mate. Copied everything step by step. She started on first kick. Now I just have to adjust idle and all good cheers, Ben
Your welcome! Glad to hear it went well. I have another video on adjusting this type of carburetor if you need to see that. Thanks for Watching!!!
a rod out the side of the block. I guess a person could experiment with that carburetor, but i think it might be to much for it, but who knows! thanks for watching!!!
good engines, can't beat them! Glad my video helped. Have you checked on ebay? You should be able to find one on there pretty cheap, in good condition. Or go to a local junkyard and try and find one like it or at least similar. thanks for watching!!!
Thanks a lot for the video, I was unsure how to remove the bowl, and your video made it very clear.
+Laser Man Your welcome, glad to help out! thanks for watching!!!
its usually just out of adjustment or a badly clogged jet, thanks for watching!!!
@HairyWoodhen it should be set 1.5 turns out, screw it all the way in till it stops, but don't take it any further then back it out 1.5 turns. Same for the low side screw on the top of carburetor. If it surges it means its lean, if it does that at idle, turn the low side (top screw) out another half turn, until it stops. if it does it on mid to full throttle adjust the bottom one, if it misses and trys to stall out when you give it full throttle, turn the bowl adjustment screw out some to make..
Good afternoon sir .Thank you very much for the help on that leaky carb from the briggs 400cc motor. Took everything apart and cleaned everything like you did .Fixed the problem .The tractor is a 1988 sears wheel horse LT1100 11hp .It was my dads .The next thing i need to move and re wire the mower deck handel for the blades .The saftey switch is old and shot .Makes it a real pain to start. I would like to put a toggle on the dash. Again thanks for the help.
Your welcome, glad to help out! These are the best carbs briggs ever made, you can adjust them so much. I hear ya! Your welcome, thanks for watching!!!
I had the new style carb on the "old" snow blower. Nothing is sweeter than adjusting a carburetor, snow half way up your legs, a nice little gentle wind,almost eleven at night and its -30...By the way a hammer doesn't fine tune those things but it feels great after...
@the1madmechanic ok, assuming your talking about the fuel mixture adjustment screw? its 1.5 turns out, then go from there in 1/8 turns. the new ones are touchy, and chances are you need to rebuild it, thats why i don't like the new ones, you can't adjust them much. Thanks for watching.
@1972FordF150 ohh i see. the kit for this type of carb costs like 11 bucks from tewarehouse.
yeah it can close while its running and make it run rich, i had one engine that the spring broke on it and i didn't know it, tried adjusting it forever, then i seen that haha yeah you will always have parts left over in them, it covers slight variations in different carbs, you may have a bad float (leaking, taking on gas making it sing) or the needle valve isn't sealing off right, try adjusting it by bending the tab. thanks for watching!
things can cause this, that is the most common, the tab not being set right, remember the float should be parallel with the carburetor when up, when it is shutting off the fuel. thanks for watching!!!
@1972FordF150 on the arm that swings back forth (goin in the engine) there is a bolt going crossways, loosen that then use a straight screwdriver on the shaft turn it clockwise all the way, then move the arm all the way clockwise, if its off just a little bit it can throw it out. I can make a video on this in a few weeks if you want? whats moving around? the linkage is supposed to move very freely.
yeah, probably the needle not seating in right, this is a very common problem. if the spring isn't broke it can be wrapped back around on it, the hook of the spring will rest up against a flat spot on the carburetor, you can also use a small spring, kind of like a governor spring only less tension and put it on the butterfly where the linkage hooks then hook it on to the carburetor somewhere, same thing as i did on the carb in this video.
@TheNWONOW i might do that. good idea, appreciate you telling me. I've seen a screwdriver made by briggs for these but it would be alot cheaper to make it yourself. thanks again and thanks for watching!
Great informative video. I am cleaning a real bad carburetor on a Simplicity 4212H. It is a big help. Thank you.
Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
its very easy to do, what you do is find a screwdriver with a slightly bigger slot drive head (not sure what size would work) you need one with a thicker blade, may have to grind the sides of a bigger one down to fit, if there is any slop in it it will strip, and just keep pressure on it to keep it from raising out of the slot, you could spray some penetrating oil on first and let is set, but be sure to clean all of the oil residue out as it will make it slip. hopethishelpsthanks for watching!!!
@1972FordF150 sometimes you dont have to. i've been wanting to get 1 of those carburetor cleaner things that NAPA or advance sales for submerging the carburetor and parts in and letting it soak in the cleaner.
@KrankieV2 if your working on a flathead engine then yes the old style carb like this in the video will bolt right up where the manifold mounts, this type of carb will not work with OHV motors, just flatheads, the flange on the ohv's are bigger than the old flatheads. thanks for watching
@HairyWoodhen if the throttle is not changing when you bring it to idle it could be the linkage is not right, if it gets in a bind it won't work smooth and hang up. or if the linkage came loose the vacum from the engine will pull the butterfly wide open. check the linkage first. hope this helps. thanks for watching
i usually do that or spray it out real good with carb cleaner. thanks for watching!
@joe18370 if float sticks or devolopes a leak and sinks down and allows gas to overflow in the cylinder then yes it can cause gas to come out the muffler when cranking. thanks for watching!
@weezyfbabybitch 11.5? didn't know that existed haha out of curiosity, what is the model on that? it should start with 25 or 28? ok what your talking about is a plug, there is no need to replace that, all that does is allow access to parts of the carburetor, i've never taken one off before. now they also have a big welch plug on the end, that is to allow access to the throttle plate, and choke plate. hope this helps. thanks for watching
@TheBccj do you have fresh gas in it? if not there may be water in it, if it's old gas drain it and flush the tank and refill, if not that, clean the carburetor, several other things could be wrong like points/condenser or even just the spark plug, i'd try cleaning/adjusting the carb first and check the gas. hope that helps!
planning on it at some point. thanks for watching
Love the video I'll be putting all this to use later today while I troubleshoot my carb.
Heard that! Good luck with your project! I also have another video on adjusting this type of carburetor and another one on all the linkages. Thanks for Watching!!!
@1972FordF150 if the carb is adjusted right then its either that or the governor. do you know how to adjust the governor? if not i can explain.
Your float is probably hanging up, check the pin, and make sure the needle and clip is installed correctly. Little tip: before mounting and testing it, even before putting the bowl back on it, hold the carburetor upside down and blow into the fuel inlet fitting (you can put a hose on it if you want) no air should escape from the need until you gently lift up on the float if it does, you will have to adjust the needle by bending the tab on the float, or you have a bad seal/needle. alot of >>>
yes, it has 2 different numbers 299852, 394698 i'll pm you a aftermarket kit, its what i use all the time with no problem! Thanks for Watching!
One important thing on flo jet, make sure that flange surface between head and carb is flat. After 30 years might cause problems. John Deere 111 runs like a dream.
Metaxa 7 That is a good point, a air leak can cause major problems. Thanks for Watching!!!
thanks for watching!
I just dismantled and cleaned my carb; thanks to this helpful video. I notice on the underside of the carb body, half the circular body has some brown material filling it. Looks like cork to me, I just wondered what it is? I have a photo if it helps but can't see where I can upload it. Thanks again.
I know what your talking about, i'm not sure exactly what it is, not all of them are like that. Thanks for Watching!!!
@FordF150Trucks no problem glad to help.
@FordF150Trucks it could be, could not be, i had one a while back that wouldn't run at all, then i decided to change the adustment screw, then it fired right up. thats why i dont like the 2 piece (newer) carbs because they can be stubborn haha. but yeah, the old one piece flow jets like the one i cleaned in this video should bolt right up, but the only problem you will have is the throttle linkage is shorter, so you will have to either find the right linkage or just make one.
I had the same 2 carbs on my desk when I searched "12 hp briggs carb"...Thanks for the run though. If no one hears from me Im behind the really tall grass.
Your welcome! haha I heard that! Thanks for Watching!!!
Unless you want a brand new one i would recommend looking on ebay for it, i ran into the same problem several times. i've broke off the middle part of the body on a few haha if you need a new one look on tulsa engine warehouse, it will be expensive. I'm never seen just the body for sale, you'll probably have to get the whole thing (not for sure on that) thanks for watching!
@KrankieV2 no problem. It should work fine then. If you look at my past videos, you will see one called New Engine! Briggs 12.5 Power built, you can see it with the old style carb on it, then in a newer video called quick update on 12.5 Horse flathead and 14.5 ohv, you will see the newer style carburetor on it. same engine, looks different in the update video because i painted it. But yeah it just bolts on in place, only thing different is the linkage, it will have to be bent or find the shorter
@1972FordF150 yeah haha i hate when that happens, i've stripped them off before, that brass is so soft. and i had another one where the high side adjustment on the bowl would not come out, and then the whole carb broke, where the screw holds the bowl on. haha just let some PB blaster set on them for a while then try it, that should work.
i'm not sure i know exactly what setup your talking about, what do you mean by spring loaded? the carb i rebuilt in the video is off a 88 or 89 model, i can't remember. thanks for watching!!!
@fnaguitarplayer9 it run a little bit richer. If it is leaking fuel, then something aint right or you got it WAY out, do like i said then if it still leaks make sure it has the gasket under the nut the screw goes into. it should be between the nut and the bowl. Sometimes they don't have a gasket and just have a washer, these usually leak more. You just have to play with the 2 screws to get it adjust right, if it blows black smoke then its to rich, if it surges like that then its lean.
that switch i believe is the on/off switch i thought it was the choke as well. because with that swtich off there is no power when turning the key. i just had to drain the old gas out, that didnt even look like gas any more, and now she purrs like a kitten!
soldering the float when it has a hole is good idea never thought about it before
very good video
+Country4lyfe22 Thanks! Yeah it does work good soldering the float, you submerge the float under gas and watch for bubbles, then you know where to solder, after the gas evaporates out of it first! I'm planning on doing a video on this. Thanks for Watching!!!
Soldering float is usually NOT an option, as critical to weight/ fuel level in bowl; (more likely) to fail an attempt to solder than to succeed
its usually a last minute fix or if a part isn't available, but as long you don't glob it on its fine, i've never had issues. Thanks for Watching!!!
@HairyWoodhen sounds like the governor spring is either off or stretched. Let me pm you...
@fnaguitarplayer9 and if you look at my video that says New Engine, 12.5 briggs power built, i have the old style on it, and i showed the origional carburetor in the video. Oh by the way, hopefully soon i will have a complete tear down and rebuild of it up. I have the video made but it will take time to edit it. Thanks for subscribing too!!!
Say, will those older style one piece carbs fit on the newer engines? I've got one with the newer Walbro carb and it's been nothing but trouble.
i've never used seafoam, i haved used marvel mystery oil before, and run it in my gas, matter of fact using this carb in this video on my grass cutter, no problems since! would say marvel works about the same as sea foam or is sea foam better? Thanks for Watching!!!
If its a one piece it will be identical to the one that was originally on it, just run your i'll PM you a link to where i get my carb kits, they usually do come with extra parts that cover slight variations between these carbs, but the main thing you need is the jets and needle valve. I'll pm you... Thanks for Watching!!!
heard that! glad you got her going again!
@ringbolt9 thanks glad to help. to bad i said the adjustment screws backwards lol
fnaguitarplayer9 Well yesterday was a bad day. Looks like I managed to somehow seize my engine. I was able to start the engine with no problem and was running good. Ran it for maybe five minutes then drove it around. At this point it made a shrill noise and then just quit like you shut it down with the ignition key. When I went to restart it the starter engaged but would not turn the flywheel. I even hooked up a 12 VDC charger in parallel with the battery and put it in a start mode but the starter still would not turn the flywheel. I had checked the oil before I ever started it and the level was good. I even drained the oil at this point and there was a normal amount of oil in the crankcase. I filled it again with Castrol 30W HD oil but still no luck. Anyway if I cannot figure anyway to unseize the engine it looks like a new tractor is in the cards. Anyway thank you so much for your help. Ron
RonTNJ I hear ya, thats a shame, hate to hear that. That could be a number of things that caused that, the rod could have seized (they usually break though and make a loud noise) but the shrill sound could be a crankshaft bearing seizing up. I have fixed that before on my buddies generator, it was ran low on oil and seized up like that, took it apart and sanded the crank and bearing down, still runs to this day. I didn't make a video on it (been nice though) because it was during that big storm a couple years ago, we were rushed to do it haha Your welcome, if you have any more questions feel free to ask! Thanks for Watching!!!
What if your throttle plate has too much play in it? Can you buy a bushing kit or repair kit to take the slack out? Where can you get it?
fnaguitarplayer9 Today before I started the tractor I cleaned and gapped the spark plug. It had gotten some carbon fouling it. Now the engine started right up and after high and low idle screws was running smoothly at both full throttle and low idle and repeatedly started with both the air cleaner and cover installed. Now the tach would read 2960 to 3000 RPMs at full throttle and 1350 at low idle. This is with the tach set to count on ever revolution. Both the full throttle and low idle speeds seemed a bit low but not real sure of the accuracy of this inductive pick up tach. On the B&S engine section of the tractor’s manual there is Throttle Control Cable Adjustment procedure. It outlines a cable adjustment that is supposed to align holes on the “governor control plate” and the “slide plate” with full throttle. Their illustration is not very clear but from what I can see these holes are off by less than 3/8” on my engine. I have not adjusted this at this point or changed the factory setting of the Idle Stop screw. Wonder if it is critical to precisely adjust the Throttle cable to get the engine speed closer to the 3600 RPM full throttle and 1800 RPM at low idle? With the adjustments of the high and low idle the engines seems to run much smoothly than it has in a long while. Any advice as to how much more precisely I should adjust the Throttle Cable and the Idle Stop screw would be very much appreciated. Thank you so much for all your help.
RonTNJ I hear ya, sometimes its something as simple as that. I do usually check the plug(s) first just to rule out spark problems. That is a little low, i'd be more concerned about the idle speed being low, when they run to slow the oil slinger doesn't sling enough oil, or sling it far enough to oil everything properly. But 600 rpms slower on the high side isn't a big difference, that could also be a weak governor spring causing that as well. I've never had to adjust it like that, the first thing i would check would be the actual cable itself, alot of times they slip, follow what i show in this video here for that, if that still doesn't help, i'd say its the spring. th-cam.com/video/1WWpeyDbHjA/w-d-xo.html for adjusting the idle speed, just screw it in clockwise until your tach reads close to 1800. Your welcome, if this still doesn't help it get back to me and I'll help you figure it out!
@RAJSTA81 yeah thats fine, i can't make promises but i'll take a look at it and try to help! thanks for watching!
thanks so much ill give this all a try hopefully i can get this old free agway running right.
Thanks for the video. I'm not a small engine guy so your video helped me a lot. My rider would only run with the choke closed so I figured it needed the carb cleaned. I wasn't sure how to do it as I've never worked on one.
Your welcome. Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
yeah sure, no problem, thanks for watching!
Just watched this video , and the one adjusting the carburetor video. Great by the way. I rebuilt and adjusted the carb on my 11 hp Briggs as according to your videos. It runs like a champ on flat ground, but as soon as you hit thick grass or go up an incline it bogs down and dies. what could be the issue with dying under load?
+jason derstine Thaks. Sounds like it could be running a little lean, or you may need to adjust the governor, it may not be compensating under load enough. Thanks for Watching!!!
will gas come out of the muffler all so if float is bad ,i have a 2 cycle snow blower with a ball carb. thanks
floats fine tested that and is there a way to spring back in the choke?
thanks for answering so quick
@TheNWONOW yeah. i have a bunch of heat shrink from there. i guess to give it more strength i don't know. haha never really though about it, but they do get in the way on carburetors and stuff like that.
after watching this video, I decided to try cleaning an old carb as a practice run before tackling the carb on my old Wizard Lawn Tractor...while trying to remove Highend jet, the head stripped out even though I used correct sized screwdriver...don't know if someone had had it out before and put it back in too tight or what...is there any suggestions before I start on carb on mower so I don't strip that one?
@fnaguitarplayer9 I didn't really have to take mine apart in the first place, I was just checking all the gaskets in it. I can't count how many times I have needed that stuff, I suppose I should invest in it sometime.
@fnaguitarplayer9 I'm not sure really how to do it but it doesn't over rev or under rev. Or when you adjust the governor is there a way to set how much tension there is to keep it from moving around so easy ?
running way to lean, like a partially clogged jet or something like preventing fuel from normal vacuum level from pulling through the carb, with it on half choke it increases the vacuum on the jets forcing more gas through them. when you take it off choke, its like turning the gas off.
Do you know where I might be able to get a carburetor like the one you cleaned. I have a B&G 12hp engine. Was rebuilding it at the tube in the bottom would not come out. Used penetrating oil, a little heat and it would not back out. Had to drill out the threaded portion. But the remain piece will not come out. It is like something is attached to it. The jet on top will come out. I am looking for just the body. I have all the jets, float, etc..
my choke is no longer spring loaded is that anything to worry about? the problem I'am having is even when off its dumping fuel so it runs super rich and back firing constantly. I did get a rebuild kit and replaced everything you showed on the video still have some left over parts.
I have a one piece that is leaking gas out of the crankcase vent that connects to the carb. When i take the carb off and bench test with the bowl off it works fine. However when I put the bowl back on all that fuel starts to build up in the carb throat and leak out of the vent like the float is stuck. Ever had this problem? I am stumped.
@1972FordF150 no there ain't. ok let me know when its up, and i'll take a look
Hello.I have an briggs and stratton 400 cc 11hp It leaks gas on the inside of the carb adn out the bottom to the ground. IM going to do the same thing you did hopefully that will do the trick Thank you for the video and got me out of a jam
I hear ya, its probably the float and or needle valve out of adjustment. Thanks for Watching!!!
@fnaguitarplayer9 now don't confuse surging with loping, if it lopes up and down then its the governor, or a very badly adjusted carburetor. It's hard to tell you how to adjust it exactly, if the engine was in front of me, it would be no problem to get it adjusted, hope you understand. Hope this helps, but if you can't figure it out, let me know, i am more than happy to help. Also make a video on it if you can, that would help alot.
@fnaguitarplayer9 Nothing is moving around that's not supposed to lol, and the governor is moving very freely. I meant I was wondering if there was an adjustment to make the governor more stiff. I'm gonna go make a video of it running so you can hear it. It doesn't do it very much but you can hear it.
I have an older briggs and stratton 11hp (400cc) motor with the same carb. Does this setup need a fuel pump? Or does the carb pull suction from the fuel line utilizing the float?
Thanks,
Steve D.
I have the same engine as you and i found out that as long as the nipple at the bottom of the tank is above the carborator gravity will pull the fuel into the carb. hope this helped
i have the new style one u had cleaned it out couldnt get middle jet out when put back together wouldnt run unless had carb cleaner or start fluid is it cuz the middle jet that i couldnt get too?
and could i put the old style on instead my motor is a 12.5hp briggs out of a craftsman?
Quick question, on the newer two piece style carbs, does the bolt on the bottom of the bowl have any orifices? The reason I ask is that I just got a 12.5 briggs and the bolt has no holes at all.
No it doesn't, I have a video showing how to clean that type of carburetor, about the only ones that have the holes in the bolt is the gravity fed carburetors on newer engines, like on push mowers, generators, chippers, snow blowers, etc, on these there is 2 small holes on the side of the emulsion tube, then you have the jet up inside it. Thanks for Watching!!!
@TheNWONOW haha i might pick up another one, and make one. better than spending the 10 bucks for the briggs tool haha
@fnaguitarplayer9 Thanks for the quick reply! I have a flathead 10.5hp engine built in 1995.
Hi,
after a diesel mishap, I rebuilt my 8hp carb with help of your video and the original carb rebuild kit. I doesn't really want to start anymore. Sometimes, It will run for a couple of strokes, then dies down. Best was when it ran for like half a minute completely fine and then died on me. Feels like its not getting enough gas or there is air stuck in fuel line cutting of the supply to the engine. Would you have some suggestions for me?
It may just be out of adjustment, turn both mixture screws in and back out 2 turns and that should get it running, i have another video on how to adjust these carburetors if you need it. You can check for fuel by popping the line off the carburetor (have something to catch the gas in) it should be a good stream, if not check fuel filter, tank etc. Thanks for Watching!!!
I have one of these carbs on my Craftsman tractor... the tractor runs great in all respects.. power, start, etc. No problems at all.. the carb however... after shutting the tractor off... after about a minute gas starts slowly flowing back towards the back of the carb and eventually leaks out. I've replaced the float... but still leaks... and only after shutting the engine off. Do you have any thoughts on what might be causing this leak?
Tom Marcucci I had the same problem with my 8 horse carb (before doing a total rebuild on it) I just put a shut off inline. Before I shut the thing off I’d run it for about 10 seconds with the fuel shut off and it had no problems. Now that it’s rebuilt I have no problems whatsoever
@the1madmechanic no problem
good info man. im gonna do mine
hey man, i have that same carb on my craftsman, but the carb itself is off of something else, where can i find out what carb rebuild kit i need?
@fnaguitarplayer9 oh ok fantastic ill def try to see what I can do ur right the newer ones do suck thanks alot
@fnaguitarplayer9 I adjusted it and it's rich and still kinda does it. And I'm going to check the play in it. I think I checked it but i'm not sure.
You mention a little rubber o ring on the needle valve, I am rebuilding a one piece with no instruction sheet. Where is this o ring used and on what carb?
It goes in the hole where the needle valve goes in, it makes the seal in the carburetor, but to be honest 95% of the time, you don't have to do anything to it, just cleaning and/or replacing the needle and setting the float level correctly fixes most float-related problems. Thanks for Watching!!!
@bigborekit12 just standard carburetor cleaner
fnaguitarplayer9, i rebuilt my 1 pc flowjet on my briggs & stratton 170707, replaced the float "plunger/needle", the throttle shaft, the choke shaft, the choke plate, new float bowl gasket. cleaned the whole thing, removed the venturi for the throttle valve replacement, cleaned and replaced the venturi, cleaned all brass components good. adjusted the governor per your video, fresh gas, fresh fuel line, fresh fuel filter. when using the starter, and choke on, the carb pops, spits gas out the air inlet, backfires, spits flames out sometimes, sometimes white smoke out the muffler, fuel is pooling in the carb bottom. the engine ran on starting fluid before i removed the carb, i didn't want to waste time on the carb if it didn't. with the choke off it still spits out raw fuel from the air inlet. what is wrong?
+Jhorst442 If gas is pooling up, fix this first, sounds like the float level isn't set right or the needle isn't sealing, that may be whats causing it to pop, sometimes they will do that. Sometimes a circuit in the carburetor will be clogged up so bad that a normal cleaning won't clean it out enough. Also could be a spark problem if its putting off a weak spark that would explain why it would only run on starting fluid, since its more flammable. Alot of possibilities! Thanks for Watching!!!
First of all, thanks a lot for taking the time to make this video- you've indeed made the internet a better place.
I have what appears to be an identical carb on an old 11HP Coast-To-Coast tractor. I'm having a bit of trouble coming up with the part numbers for replacement parts. Here's what I've come up with:
Rebuild kit # 394698
Float # 299707
Could you tell me if that is correct? Thanks!
Working on a 12HP I/C Briggs probably 30 years old, with a carb that looks like the one in your video. Fuel doesn't seem to flow into the carb bowl, so I'm assuming it is the little needle valve which is attached to the float? (or the float itself) Engine starts and runs on starting fluid, and I've sprayed the heck out of everything else with carb cleaner. Any advice would be appreciated.
I hear ya! Sounds like either like you say the needle valve isn't working or the passage between where the hose connects and the needle seat is clogged up, or the float level isn't right causing not enough gas to flow. Thanks for Watching!!!
+fnaguitarplayer9. turns out the needle with the rubber tip was bad AND the float was sticking. new Carb kit installed and the engine fired right up. thanks for the video tutorial!!!
I hear ya! Glad to hear you got it going! your welcome!
@fnaguitarplayer9 linkage for the 2 piece, or make one out of a coat hanger haha
My jet is stuck any ideas on un seizing it?
mine does the same thing, still dont know why. did you ever figure it out?
Do you know what the part number for the rebuild kit is? I'm having a hell of a time finding it.