Thank you so much for sharing. My husband and I have been so apprehensive about messing with our well. This was so helpful to us. It was great to find out that we too have the same filter. It was so simple to clean! I'm not sure why we are so apprehensive in doing these types of tasks. We were city folk before and we have been slowly learning the rural and remote lifestyle. Oh, and we were so delighted in the fact that our well was so clean even though we have never cleaned the filter after being on our property for ten years, which I know is crazy that we have waited this long, BUT, for those folks out there wondering how good that polyester filter is I can say it holds up!!!! Thanks again. We are now subscribed.
I have a ground breaking idea here. Install a largeush pressure tank after your spin down filter. After you shut off the house water filter, you can shut off supply water, and open the spin down drain, this scenario will force water backwards from pressure tank, through the filter, out the drain, likely cleaning it from behind about as well as you do when you remove and rinse it. I thought about recommending you flush backwards with supply water.... but that would get debris stuck on the back of the filter and allow debris into your woven filter as well. So a pressure tank filled with filtered water would be a better way to backwash it. And, with this kind of setup, you could also automate the cleaning of the filter with a few solenoid valves to occur every few weeks automatically. I use an automatic RO membrane flush that works similarly and is hands off
Fifteen years ago I upgraded my well with a submersible pump. A small spin filter was installed with a 100 mesh filter. My whole house filter was clogging every month so I switched to a 140 mesh. I bought two so I would switch them out every year. Virtually no sediment on them and none at the body bottom. I recently started having problems again so I ordered a 250 mesh filter. The 140’s are stained brown and that might be from particles stuck to them. I hope that that solves the problem. Great video.
Don't forget that your rusco spindown has to match your gpm provided by your water supply. So if your rusco is too big, you might not have enough gpm to trigger the spin-down/venturi. Also, you could always install 2 ruscos in parallel. Would reduce how often you have to service them.
IF YOU put a bypass line( and a shut off immediately in front of spin down normal intake)so that you can shut the normal direction of water flow off to the spin down THEN you can actually backflush (reverse the direction of water through the screen) and clean it during 'Spin down' with only rarely having to disassemble it.
When you purge the spindown, leave the house supply open. That way, some water will return and wash the filter element a bit. Also, next time mount the filters higher - at shoulder level. It will be easier to work and maintain.
We had a problem similar to what you are seeing with sediment. We raised our submersible pump up 10 feet by shortening the pipe that goes down in the well. Problem solved. Enjoying your videos, especially the Ram Pump ones. Have a BLESSED Day.
Try backflushing the Rusco by 1st draining it the normal way, then shut off the supply water, open the drain, and turning on the house filter valve to cause water to flow backwards through the Rusco. It may force the clinging silt off the media and down the drain. Just a thought. That is how automatic industrial filters self clean, by backwashing.
He might not have enough residual pressure or volume within the house plumbing for that to be effective. He does seem to have a spare 3/4" Rusco now though, so could rig them in parallel with a couple of ball-valves. Each Rusco will backflush the other. Using solenoid valves, the entire flush and backflush process could be automated.
Just something to think about.. when I install the rusco style filters( I am a licensed plumber) I use a pex female on the bottom of the filter housing and run pex to a hose bib somewhere easy to use. If you use the hose bib on a regular basis you wind up flushing the filter more often. If you don't want to use the pex fittings you can put a sharkbite female on the bottom of the housing as well so it remains easy to remove the housing when needed.
seth what about putting the stainless steel and small trap between the two adding a third unit further protecting the final water filter and the first larger filter should or will really slow down the stainless steel one from blocking
Hi Seth, great testing! A couple of thoughts that might further improve your system... - Place your 3/4" housing WITHOUT filter (or with 12 mesh or so rock catcher) inline before your new filter. - Provide 12" or more of straight pipe before and after each spindown filter. - Add a set of ball valves to provide bypass and backflushing of the filters. - Add pressure gauges before, between, and after filters to allow measurement of differential pressure across each. - As others have mentioned, consider plumbing in an automated blowdown valve that opens for a few seconds each day. - Bonus points for connecting to a PLC and using pressure (and flow?) sensors to flush as needed and notify on required maintenance.
For your bonus points you could find or buy an old automated sprinkler system, or if you already have one, just run a pair of wires to it and you can set it up to turn the purge one once a week for a few mins and you are done. No plc experience required.
Really god advice which I am going to use! Can you describe the setup for “PLC and using pressure sensors (and flow?) sensors to flush…” I really like this idea. I have a 2” Runco now on our irrigation. I have a Hunter system that has a master valve under the Runco to flush using the program cycle. Although not necessarily needed here in this discussion, I also use a rather elaborate system to add acid and water soluble fertilizer to our water. Its a Dosatron and a micro doser with ultrasonic flow detection. I keep a Nest cam pointed at my system so I can see the filter and gauges as needed when we are away.
My pre filters arrived the other day, I doubled down on each 1 as sets so I can turn off one set of filters and use the 2nd set. I have 2 each... 200 micron, 100 micron, 50 micron and 40 micron. 4 shutoff valves, 1 at each end of a line of filters. Our water tasts good, cold and runs clear mostly, tho we do get fine sand and sediment. I will look into some other filters for .5 microns for drinking and cooking, overkill?.... probably but I want to set it up so there is little to no disruption during any maintenanace. Happy New Year!! and Thank you for the video.
I was searching on this topic and your video was a result! Good stuff here, I've got issues with silt in my well also. Frustrating issue, I need to get the spin filter stage going. The string filter alone is not nearly enough.
Excellent video. I use the large Runco spindowns on our well water supplied irrigation system. We have a Hunter irrigation system. I have installed a master valve under the Runco. When the irrigation program goes through its cycle, I have it programmed to flush the filter each complete cycle. The program only allows minimum one minute so it does flush a bunch. My filter eventually does get clogged though (mostly fine iron oxide/rust) so I need to bottle brush it every couple weeks. I am thinking of having two Runco filters inline - one with a larger mesh first and a finer mesh second. I do need to watch pressure drop though.
I personally would install the previous spin down after the newest spin down and before the pleated filter. Just to see if the pleated still gets clogged up a little faster than before. Trying to save more money there.
I don't know what your well is like and its characteristics, but I imagine the pump submerged in sediment, you tried to pull it up, to raise it, for me it fishes too deep. A bypass and countercurrent washing would be needed but in your case it would be counterproductive, too much sediment, an additional cyclonic or hydrocyclonic anti sand filter would be needed, well calculated to work well, if too large or too small it does not go correctly and an automated drain valve like a motorized and a sonoff that controls it, either timed or as desired for both filters. Ciao
I put mine on "loop" where the filter can be serviced without shutting the house off. That way if it broke, we're not without water. But WOW thats a lot of sediment, I clean mine twice a year. I wonder if your pump is at the very bottom of your well.
would be cool to build an automated flush system. That drains the filter, when the pressure is below a certain threshold. Maybe you could extend the time you need to clear the filters that way. Auto flush every so many days, to keep the filters as clean as possible.
@@LandtoHouse Would love to see that coupled with backflushing or, even better - automated backflushing. Additionally, would be nice to see one that has bristles inside so you could twist them from outside to scrub the filter element while flushing.
Have you considered a sprinkler timer at the drain of the spin down filter? Then you can set it to drain any day you like and for however long you need.
Why don't you put the Poly mesh first, followed by the steal mesh to trap whatever remains, followed by your house filter? Would the cost go too much up?
He already has both systems, so other than a few fittings no additional costs for him. Starting from scratch would be the cost of 2 systems. How it affects flow would be the question.
Add a solenoid ball valve and a timer. Set it to go off once a week for a couple of minutes. Sprinkler timers and valves work well. That will prevent the sediment from building up on the screen in the first place. The other thing you can do is add your original unit back in AFTER the larger unit. There should be less sediment to plug it up, but adding it will allow your house filter to last longer (solenoid ball valve tied to the same timer). I would also add a union on each unit you have in the system, it helps a LOT.
Adding a sprinkler timer and electric valve sounds good in theory but what happens if the valve doesn't shut off does it flood the bottom of your house
Can you use also for a second dairy filter after house hold filter? Have house hold filter already installed . I know keeps house filter from being change as mush . I can go 3 months with out changing my house hold filter. nice job.
My spin down filter would clog every few days and required taking it apart to restore the flow. I ended up with a better system. I use 2 big 10 filter canisters in series. The first filter is a Pentek 75-25 "Dual grade" filter and the second is a Pentek 25-01 "Dual grade" filter. They last two to three months and do not load up to the point where I notice any appreciable reduction in flow or pressure. I have an artesian spring in a concrete block spring house and there is a fair amount of silt in the water. When I change the filters, I notice that there are several concentric rings of sediment in each filter. I recently found a different manufacturer that is somewhat cheaper and the filters are every bit as good as the originals.
Great video thank you. its really interesting the rusco people would tell you to just use a bigger unit because on their website it says 1.5" unit is good for gpm range 10 to 50, meaning it is not as effective below 10 gpm? For the 1" unit, the range is 1 to 25 gpm. I'd really like to understand if using a larger unit is better regardless of the usage....
LOL those filters were not dirty. We clean our filter whenever we acquire 3/8 in of Virginia red clay. It breaks of in chunks for easy cleaning. I also find back flushing helps if the water system above is large enough to apply pressure to break the sediment lose from the screen. Helps a little between cleanings, which are a pain I agree. I’m looking for a self-cleaning model..
How deep is you well? What kind of pump do you have? Have you tried clean your well? Do you have a frost-free hydrant? Where do you live? Do you have a well log?
You could automate the clean down of the filter. Take the threads from the ball valve and put a normally closed solenoid valve on and a timer then run the discharge to a floor drain or out to a rain barrel. Have the electric timer kick on for 30 seconds every fourth day or so (you’d want to play with it to see what works best for keeping clean and saving water and power) but this would keep the screen completely clean by flushing the silt from the filter more often and not letting it cake. Then you could probably go to like a 200 mesh instead of 100 mesh and not clog up your string filter as quickly. It’s similar concept to the auto drain on a compressor tank. Just a thought for saving you from having to climb under the house all the time.
That does sound like a pretty good idea. I think I'll give this a few months and see how it does. I'm anticipating two months. If that's the case I don't mind going under there to change it out.
I added the Rusco automatic flush valve which allows you to set a timer, but I wanted the ability to have “on demand flushing” and also more variability than the Rusco timer allows for. I pugged the Rusco automatic flush valve power into a WiFi enabled outlet. I now control the flush by pressing a button on an app on my iPhone. I can also use the scheduler on the app to turn the automatic flusher off and on as many times per day as I want to. I ran a piece of flexible hose to a drain with a trap.
when you said two months at the end, does that mean you have to replace the filter or just clean it.. thinking about putting this before my water softener
I'm just amazed that you've fought this filter system on the floor for two years. Why have you not put a 24 or 36 inch riser from the floor into the Rusco filter and string filter package bringing it up where it only a pain rather than a near fist fight. You could also get rid of that gate valve on the floor as well and install a ball valve just before the Rusco filter. Oh well. Thanks for the excellent discussion on the Rusco spin down product.
It doesn’t look like the Rusco actually backflushes, but merely drains the accumulates sediment. If it backflushed, the trapped particles would release from the mesh. Let’s see what Rusco’s owner can explain about that. But basically, the polyester was letting more particles go onto your bigger filter than the stainless steel mesh, which means you’re just borrowing from Peter to pay Paul; how much does the bigger filter cost? Rusco needs to make a bona fide backflushing sediment screen, so disposable filters don’t bear the brunt of particles that get through. This isn’t rocket science-it just requires focus on the customer and sympathy.
No you want to make sure the filter is after the pressure tank. If you have a filter before and it gets clogged your Well Pomp will try to run all the time
To me if you look at the poly screen from when you started the backwash to when you opened the case to clean it.. ALOT of sediment was removed and if you keep it running for along time you can clean most of it.... you should hook up an hose to outside.. so you can not have to deal with all that.. or at least raise the manifold so its more serviceable.
It is way better. A few things are happening. A little more debris is getting past the screen to the string filter so it does not clag as fast. And my wife left the home and we use half the water we used to. I now change the filter every 1 to 1.5 months. WAY better than every 3 days.
Great video! Have you thought about getting 2-3 spin down sediment of different mesh size in serie instead of just one? Personnally, I was thinking about minimum 3. I wish the best for you and your family. Thank you and take care!
@@LandtoHouse There's no coincidence, only providence. ;) I was thinking maybe your 100 mesh + 500 mesh + 1000 mesh. I'll stay tuned for the update, thank you!
Thanks for the video, I am currently going through the same process. Started with the spindown with cartridges, I could see after one day that I would need to change it very often. We only have sediment, no chemicals, at least at this time. When I realized how much sediment was in my water I decided to backflush my hot water heater, in service for less than 2 years. Needless to say it was full of sediment. It would not even drain without water pressure, I flushed it for something like 4 hours until the water was clear. Following this I decided to take a look inside of my pressure tank and it was really gunked up as well. Took it out of service tried to clean with bleach and vinegar and it did clean somewhat but it was still filthy. So I decided to put a new pressure tank in since this is our drinking water and it taste great and looks crystal clear. I would have thought it would taste like mud after seeing how much sediment is taken out in the filters. Anyway, I am rambling a bit, and I have a question. Why would it not be better to have your sediment filters in front of your pressure tank? I an DIY'ER and I am not saying it would be but have you thought about that or found any info saying it is better to filter after the pressure tank? Sediment must be settling in that pressure tank in my opinion. What do you think. I would love a reply and thanks again for the video.
The filters' manuals state to not place the filters before the water tank because of the unregulated pressure of the water coming from the pump. The housing and filter could get damaged and leak. What he likely needs to do is to flush his well and/or raise up his pump because it might be sitting in sediment.
The problem that you potentially create is if your spin down filter becomes so clogged that it restricts the flow of water, your pressure relieve valve and switch is now located after the filter and does not obviously see the high pressure on the well pump side of the filter. This means that your well pump is continuing to pump against a restriction which is going to cause it to overheat whereas the pressure relief valve and associated switch turns the pump on and off is not seeing the high pressure because the filter is plugged and hence the switch is not going to turn off your pump. This is a potentially dangerous situation that could cause premature failure of your well pump.
Pipes should also be grounded. The plastic housing breaks the ground. Install two brass clamps on either of the filter and run a decent gauge wire to allow ground connectivity.
Hey mate I would piss off the metal pipes & fittings with well water & use poly or brass fittings,makes a big difference as the metal ones will eventually rust & cause issues
@@LandtoHouse yea I did once use galv piping in my bore water system in Australia but I’ve gone poly piping as eventually the fall piping would rust & cause more damage,wish I could afford stainless so I’ve settled for blue line thick wall piping on my bore & have not had an issue in over 15 years with poly piping
Hi Seth - Are you able to tell us the brand and make of the filter after the spin down and the amount of microns. I like how the top twists to shut off. Thanks and thanks for your great videos
My well is pulling sand and slit and they wanted to drill a new well… we tried twice and they didn’t hit water so we put on a sediment tank and that filter. I hope I don’t have to do this every week 🥴
We had the same problem of silt in the pipes and our well inspector told us to raise the pump 6 feet up and we did that and all of our problems went away. Your pump is too low, maybe raise it up more or less depending on your circumstance. Hopefully, your well level allows this. All well systems are different we were told. Think about what your pump is going through to pump the water up to you and if there is sediment in the system, that is not good for the pump and its seals. Picture the vortex of water turbulence every time the pump starts and sends water up.
your on the right trail,have you looked into a commercial sand filters, one you can back-flush, sand filters are used on large sumps, and cooling towers for hvac systems, over time you will save money on filters, and labor, and you can have the sand filter on a timer
you can find the sand filters at a pumping supply house, i'm a retired steamfitter, and piping was the trade, boilers, chillers, you name it, i worked on the new installs, check around the net, in minniapolis, ans st paul, check out the on-line catalogs, good luck, i know you will find them...
sand filter, it's a round vessel, it has sand in the bottom of it, about 50 to 60 pounds of sand siltcon sand, the filter is approx 24 to 30 inches in diameter
Does a ram pump work better or worse or not at all with a flap valve at the inlet to the pump as well as the normal ones to send more water and pressure out the output in stead of half going back to the source?
you're supposed to mount that filter before the pressure tank, when you blow it down water travels from the pressure tank in the reverse direction to normal flow and forcefully blows out the sediment.
From my research you cannot mount before the pressure tank. If it gets clogged the pump would run full force trying to fill the tank pressure and burn up the well pump.
@@LandtoHouse You're supposed to mount the pressure switch upstream of the filter. The installation manual shows how, but this is not a typical arrangement so I understand why you've plumbed it the way you have. The other thing you can do is plumb a bypass in such a way that you can reverse the flow through the filter, that allows a more typical tank/switch arrangement.
Have you considered having a 50 micron spin down after the 100 micron to extend life of cartridge filter? I just received a 50 micron spin down which I am confident will be sufficient as I do not have the amount of silt you have
Dude - have you thought of getting a longer (taller) inlet pipe on the right to raise the whole system a few feet off the ground? And get rid of the galvanized pipes.
So I have a 250 polyester on my rusco spin down. I noticed silt was getting through to much and was hoping that was the right approach, please enlighten me which one has the finer holes because I was told the 100 was the average and going up is trapping more
I think its the other direction? Particle size of 100 is smaller than 250. So if you went with a 50 it would stop even more. A human hair is around a 50 micron.
Had a very similar problem. I had to use a larger sized filter over the smaller recommended size. The larger filter extended my time to service the filter as in your case. Any issues with slightly elevated iron?
i would raise the filter higher by extending the pipe from the pump then have then further apart to get the bucket under i would have the nylone filter then the stainless then the string filter
Hello, thank you for your video - I also have to cope with a sandy well and thought that a bigger/larger filter is always better that a smaller one. Also liked the ideas of David E. and Pietro - it seems they are professionals - will take their advices in account. To Rusco Co.: the translucent removable part does not look reliable at all, specially the bottom part where the valve connects - I would prefer to have it in solid bronze with a gauge installed on the top to show the pressure on output end. Now, I also got an DIY (unprofessional) idea and namely: to turn this huge Rusco filter into a 2 stage sediment filter. I would insert inside the bigger/stock filter (accommodate and seal ) a second mesh with a thinner grit mesh. Of course it would make sense the outer/stock/main mesh to have much bigger grit. Let's say: outer 400 micron and inner (added) 100micron, or whatever - depending on specific of your well sediments. Of course it might affect the hydrodynamics of the vortex and the pressure, but I think that way we might increase about 1.5 times both the service period and the quality of the water. I am skipping the technical difficulties of accommodating the second filter, but I guess it is possible to be done.
Thanks for watching. This larger Rusco is working well. I no longer have to clean the filter every 3 days. As for the clear cylender. It is working fine so far. Once lasted a couple years with no issues until I changed it out with this one. Its clear so you can see how much sediment has been captured.
I've had 2 plumbers recently tell me to just bypass the sediment filter altogether. Doesn't seem like great advice to me but anyone else using well water and not using a sediment filter? Would it shorten the lifespan of the softener, etc?
@@LandtoHouse Also add a ball valve on the house side to shut when you are working on the filters so the house does not drain unless you want it to do so.
Do you have any experience with ispring spin down filters? Most reviews of any spin down on high sediment say it will need to be flushed often. I noticed there is an auto flush ispring spin down filter. Problem is it goes from $45 to $450. Makes me wonder if there are better options.
My main complaint with spin down filters is size. They are way to small. I had one and had to remove it. Just to much maintenance. They should be 4x the size.
Pull the well pump out put a 4 inch sleeve over it seal the top of the sleeve and put small slits below the motor you will never get silt again or ever need to do a filter installer or change. Eliminated at the source don't try to fight it further down the line pull that well pump put a 4 inch sleeve over it and you won't have a drop of sediment ever again. I've done it time and time again and people love there water now;)
I bought a place with this smaller Rusco spindown filter, but it is so tight, I can't hand-unscrew it... do you have an recommendation for a filter wrench to unscrew it?
I noticed multiple people agreed with this. I noticed he has a pressure tank so he is on a well. I do not know how many residences run over 10 GPM, so this may be a little off setting for someone looking to install their first spin down filter on a household well
Two questions: 1. Any news on if it actually lasted the anticipated 2 months? 2. in my own water filtering system (saltless), the nylon large sediment filter sits before the other filtration media...was just wondering if you or your viewers have tried adding a sediment filter in front of the spin down, like the one you have "behind"?
2. The point of the spindown is because it captures coarser/bigger particles and is reusable (no need to change filter media ), you save on changing the finer sediment filters which are single use, can't be washed.
Great info! Living also in NC, we have heavy clay silt and sediment. Just learned about the Rusco Sediment Trap and plan to install it before a backwash turbidity filter. Was hoping the Rusco Sediment Trap would do the trick but because the clay in our water is silt (making our water orange and gunking up our appliances, etc), looks like we're going to have to invest in the pricey backwash system. Have you considered one?
Hi Seth, your video was just what i needed. I have been researching relentlessly on how to clear up my well water. I have a question. Did the 2" spin down come with the bushings to reduce from 2" down to 3/4"?
Thanks for the helpful video. Did you end up getting 2 months out of it? Also, do you base your maintenance (flush & clean filter, etc) based on the water pressure in the house dropping or just do it on a set schedule? We just moved from the city out to a more rural area and this is my first experience working on wells. Water pressure in the house was trash, especially in the third floor bathroom, but just flushing the spin down did wonders to improve that and I haven't even taken off the filter and cleaned it out yet.
Watched your video, very informative. I email Rusco regarding my issues (exactly like yours) and was told to go with the 100 Stainless steel filter. I know u want the larger unit, but still not sure about filters because of their recommendations. How is the larger unit working with the polyester filter? Thank you.
@@LandtoHouse Were both the stainless (original filter you had) and the new, larger (2") poly filter both 100 mesh size - so it was comparing "apples to apples", in this case? Thanks.
Thank you so much for sharing. My husband and I have been so apprehensive about messing with our well. This was so helpful to us. It was great to find out that we too have the same filter. It was so simple to clean! I'm not sure why we are so apprehensive in doing these types of tasks. We were city folk before and we have been slowly learning the rural and remote lifestyle. Oh, and we were so delighted in the fact that our well was so clean even though we have never cleaned the filter after being on our property for ten years, which I know is crazy that we have waited this long, BUT, for those folks out there wondering how good that polyester filter is I can say it holds up!!!! Thanks again. We are now subscribed.
I have a ground breaking idea here. Install a largeush pressure tank after your spin down filter. After you shut off the house water filter, you can shut off supply water, and open the spin down drain, this scenario will force water backwards from pressure tank, through the filter, out the drain, likely cleaning it from behind about as well as you do when you remove and rinse it. I thought about recommending you flush backwards with supply water.... but that would get debris stuck on the back of the filter and allow debris into your woven filter as well. So a pressure tank filled with filtered water would be a better way to backwash it. And, with this kind of setup, you could also automate the cleaning of the filter with a few solenoid valves to occur every few weeks automatically. I use an automatic RO membrane flush that works similarly and is hands off
Fifteen years ago I upgraded my well with a submersible pump. A small spin filter was installed with a 100 mesh filter. My whole house filter was clogging every month so I switched to a 140 mesh. I bought two so I would switch them out every year. Virtually no sediment on them and none at the body bottom. I recently started having problems again so I ordered a 250 mesh filter. The 140’s are stained brown and that might be from particles stuck to them. I hope that that solves the problem.
Great video.
Great customer service from Rusco
I was really impressed. Probably on the phone for 20 + minutes talking about different filters.
Don't forget that your rusco spindown has to match your gpm provided by your water supply. So if your rusco is too big, you might not have enough gpm to trigger the spin-down/venturi. Also, you could always install 2 ruscos in parallel. Would reduce how often you have to service them.
IF YOU put a bypass line( and a shut off immediately in front of spin down normal intake)so that you can shut the normal direction of water flow off to the spin down THEN you can actually backflush (reverse the direction of water through the screen) and clean it during 'Spin down' with only rarely having to disassemble it.
When you purge the spindown, leave the house supply open. That way, some water will return and wash the filter element a bit.
Also, next time mount the filters higher - at shoulder level. It will be easier to work and maintain.
We had a problem similar to what you are seeing with sediment. We raised our submersible pump up 10 feet by shortening the pipe that goes down in the well. Problem solved.
Enjoying your videos, especially the Ram Pump ones. Have a BLESSED Day.
How deep is your submersible pump, now? Thanks.
Try backflushing the Rusco by 1st draining it the normal way, then shut off the supply water, open the drain, and turning on the house filter valve to cause water to flow backwards through the Rusco. It may force the clinging silt off the media and down the drain. Just a thought. That is how automatic industrial filters self clean, by backwashing.
He might not have enough residual pressure or volume within the house plumbing for that to be effective. He does seem to have a spare 3/4" Rusco now though, so could rig them in parallel with a couple of ball-valves. Each Rusco will backflush the other. Using solenoid valves, the entire flush and backflush process could be automated.
Just something to think about.. when I install the rusco style filters( I am a licensed plumber) I use a pex female on the bottom of the filter housing and run pex to a hose bib somewhere easy to use. If you use the hose bib on a regular basis you wind up flushing the filter more often. If you don't want to use the pex fittings you can put a sharkbite female on the bottom of the housing as well so it remains easy to remove the housing when needed.
I have been sooooo curious about these things. I have never said this to a man before, but, I love you!! Thank you for doing this video!!
seth what about putting the stainless steel and small trap between the two adding a third unit further protecting the final water filter and the first larger filter should or will really slow down the stainless steel one from blocking
Hi Seth, great testing!
A couple of thoughts that might further improve your system...
- Place your 3/4" housing WITHOUT filter (or with 12 mesh or so rock catcher) inline before your new filter.
- Provide 12" or more of straight pipe before and after each spindown filter.
- Add a set of ball valves to provide bypass and backflushing of the filters.
- Add pressure gauges before, between, and after filters to allow measurement of differential pressure across each.
- As others have mentioned, consider plumbing in an automated blowdown valve that opens for a few seconds each day.
- Bonus points for connecting to a PLC and using pressure (and flow?) sensors to flush as needed and notify on required maintenance.
For your bonus points you could find or buy an old automated sprinkler system, or if you already have one, just run a pair of wires to it and you can set it up to turn the purge one once a week for a few mins and you are done. No plc experience required.
Really god advice which I am going to use! Can you describe the setup for “PLC and using pressure sensors (and flow?) sensors to flush…” I really like this idea. I have a 2” Runco now on our irrigation. I have a Hunter system that has a master valve under the Runco to flush using the program cycle. Although not necessarily needed here in this discussion, I also use a rather elaborate system to add acid and water soluble fertilizer to our water. Its a Dosatron and a micro doser with ultrasonic flow detection. I keep a Nest cam pointed at my system so I can see the filter and gauges as needed when we are away.
My pre filters arrived the other day, I doubled down on each 1 as sets so I can turn off one set of filters and use the 2nd set. I have 2 each... 200 micron, 100 micron, 50 micron and 40 micron. 4 shutoff valves, 1 at each end of a line of filters. Our water tasts good, cold and runs clear mostly, tho we do get fine sand and sediment. I will look into some other filters for .5 microns for drinking and cooking, overkill?.... probably but I want to set it up so there is little to no disruption during any maintenanace. Happy New Year!! and Thank you for the video.
Awesome video! Remove the galvanized piping to plastic see the rust on the exterior threads that’s the inside. Only exterior is coated
I was searching on this topic and your video was a result! Good stuff here, I've got issues with silt in my well also. Frustrating issue, I need to get the spin filter stage going. The string filter alone is not nearly enough.
Excellent video. I use the large Runco spindowns on our well water supplied irrigation system. We have a Hunter irrigation system. I have installed a master valve under the Runco. When the irrigation program goes through its cycle, I have it programmed to flush the filter each complete cycle. The program only allows minimum one minute so it does flush a bunch. My filter eventually does get clogged though (mostly fine iron oxide/rust) so I need to bottle brush it every couple weeks. I am thinking of having two Runco filters inline - one with a larger mesh first and a finer mesh second. I do need to watch pressure drop though.
I personally would install the previous spin down after the newest spin down and before the pleated filter.
Just to see if the pleated still gets clogged up a little faster than before. Trying to save more money there.
Thanks!
I don't know what your well is like and its characteristics, but I imagine the pump submerged in sediment, you tried to pull it up, to raise it, for me it fishes too deep. A bypass and countercurrent washing would be needed but in your case it would be counterproductive, too much sediment, an additional cyclonic or hydrocyclonic anti sand filter would be needed, well calculated to work well, if too large or too small it does not go correctly and an automated drain valve like a motorized and a sonoff that controls it, either timed or as desired for both filters. Ciao
I put mine on "loop" where the filter can be serviced without shutting the house off. That way if it broke, we're not without water. But WOW thats a lot of sediment, I clean mine twice a year. I wonder if your pump is at the very bottom of your well.
would be cool to build an automated flush system. That drains the filter, when the pressure is below a certain threshold. Maybe you could extend the time you need to clear the filters that way. Auto flush every so many days, to keep the filters as clean as possible.
Shh that would make too much sense. That's now how the world works lol
Actually easy to do. Any industrial supply has timed drains. I have used them for air compressors but should work fine.
This company actually now has a timed drain system. I might be testing it soon.
@@LandtoHouse Would love to see that coupled with backflushing or, even better - automated backflushing.
Additionally, would be nice to see one that has bristles inside so you could twist them from outside to scrub the filter element while flushing.
Rusco has that, called an auto flush system
Have you considered a sprinkler timer at the drain of the spin down filter? Then you can set it to drain any day you like and for however long you need.
I have replaced the Clear Vuflow/Rusco clear filter housing probably 8 times because of cracking at the threads, and yes it's only gently hand tight.
I would advise a vLve on the house side and also a backwash valve setup for the sediment spin down filter to reverse flow to flush it properly
Why don't you put the Poly mesh first, followed by the steal mesh to trap whatever remains, followed by your house filter? Would the cost go too much up?
He already has both systems, so other than a few fittings no additional costs for him.
Starting from scratch would be the cost of 2 systems.
How it affects flow would be the question.
Add a solenoid ball valve and a timer. Set it to go off once a week for a couple of minutes. Sprinkler timers and valves work well. That will prevent the sediment from building up on the screen in the first place. The other thing you can do is add your original unit back in AFTER the larger unit. There should be less sediment to plug it up, but adding it will allow your house filter to last longer (solenoid ball valve tied to the same timer). I would also add a union on each unit you have in the system, it helps a LOT.
Unions are so hand to have. I'm thinking this current filter setup will last 2 months. Even without an auto flush that is much better than it has been
Adding a sprinkler timer and electric valve sounds good in theory but what happens if the valve doesn't shut off does it flood the bottom of your house
@@gumbystown I thought it was obvious, but perhaps not. You need to run a drain line from that ball valve to a sump or other drain.
When you say 100 mesh, is that referring to the micron size, being 100 micron? Thanks!
Can you use also for a second dairy filter after house hold filter? Have house hold filter already installed . I know keeps house filter from being change as mush . I can go 3 months with out changing my house hold filter. nice job.
Do you possibly have the water flow direction going the wrong way in that first filter?
I tied mine into a hose bib outside and once a week I just open the hose bib up for a few seconds to flush it out never have any problems
May you can add two settlement filters, to catch what the first missed. So you can extend your main filter.
My spin down filter would clog every few days and required taking it apart to restore the flow. I ended up with a better system. I use 2 big 10 filter canisters in series. The first filter is a Pentek 75-25 "Dual grade" filter and the second is a Pentek 25-01 "Dual grade" filter. They last two to three months and do not load up to the point where I notice any appreciable reduction in flow or pressure. I have an artesian spring in a concrete block spring house and there is a fair amount of silt in the water. When I change the filters, I notice that there are several concentric rings of sediment in each filter. I recently found a different manufacturer that is somewhat cheaper and the filters are every bit as good as the originals.
could you put a tee between the filters and plumbed in a bypass valve so you could flush the screen backwards and push the sediment out of the screen?
Great video thank you. its really interesting the rusco people would tell you to just use a bigger unit because on their website it says 1.5" unit is good for gpm range 10 to 50, meaning it is not as effective below 10 gpm? For the 1" unit, the range is 1 to 25 gpm.
I'd really like to understand if using a larger unit is better regardless of the usage....
LOL those filters were not dirty. We clean our filter whenever we acquire 3/8 in of Virginia red clay. It breaks of in chunks for easy cleaning. I also find back flushing helps if the water system above is large enough to apply pressure to break the sediment lose from the screen. Helps a little between cleanings, which are a pain I agree. I’m looking for a self-cleaning model..
How deep is you well? What kind of pump do you have? Have you tried clean your well? Do you have a frost-free hydrant? Where do you live? Do you have a well log?
I am guessing that the fact the 2 inch filter is rated for up to 50 GPM flow it still works well 9n household pressures under 10 GPM?
You could automate the clean down of the filter. Take the threads from the ball valve and put a normally closed solenoid valve on and a timer then run the discharge to a floor drain or out to a rain barrel. Have the electric timer kick on for 30 seconds every fourth day or so (you’d want to play with it to see what works best for keeping clean and saving water and power) but this would keep the screen completely clean by flushing the silt from the filter more often and not letting it cake. Then you could probably go to like a 200 mesh instead of 100 mesh and not clog up your string filter as quickly. It’s similar concept to the auto drain on a compressor tank. Just a thought for saving you from having to climb under the house all the time.
That does sound like a pretty good idea. I think I'll give this a few months and see how it does. I'm anticipating two months. If that's the case I don't mind going under there to change it out.
Very well said, by automating it to spindown more often it would most definitely keep filter from clogging.
Thank you!
I added the Rusco automatic flush valve which allows you to set a timer, but I wanted the ability to have “on demand flushing” and also more variability than the Rusco timer allows for. I pugged the Rusco automatic flush valve power into a WiFi enabled outlet. I now control the flush by pressing a button on an app on my iPhone. I can also use the scheduler on the app to turn the automatic flusher off and on as many times per day as I want to. I ran a piece of flexible hose to a drain with a trap.
@@jned3967 I'd like to hear some more detail around this set up you have.
@@cparker3931 Just saw this, what would you like to know?
when you said two months at the end, does that mean you have to replace the filter or just clean it.. thinking about putting this before my water softener
What is the brand and model for the bigger spin down
I'm just amazed that you've fought this filter system on the floor for two years. Why have you not put a 24 or 36 inch riser from the floor into the Rusco filter and string filter package bringing it up where it only a pain rather than a near fist fight. You could also get rid of that gate valve on the floor as well and install a ball valve just before the Rusco filter. Oh well.
Thanks for the excellent discussion on the Rusco spin down product.
It doesn’t look like the Rusco actually backflushes, but merely drains the accumulates sediment. If it backflushed, the trapped particles would release from the mesh. Let’s see what Rusco’s owner can explain about that.
But basically, the polyester was letting more particles go onto your bigger filter than the stainless steel mesh, which means you’re just borrowing from Peter to pay Paul; how much does the bigger filter cost? Rusco needs to make a bona fide backflushing sediment screen, so disposable filters don’t bear the brunt of particles that get through. This isn’t rocket science-it just requires focus on the customer and sympathy.
Do you install the filters in between the wellhead and the pressure tank to prevent the sediment from entering the pressure tank?
No you want to make sure the filter is after the pressure tank. If you have a filter before and it gets clogged your Well
Pomp will try to run all the time
To me if you look at the poly screen from when you started the backwash to when you opened the case to clean it.. ALOT of sediment was removed and if you keep it running for along time you can clean most of it.... you should hook up an hose to outside.. so you can not have to deal with all that.. or at least raise the manifold so its more serviceable.
I Just scrolled through your videos hoping for an update video on how the bigger filter worked for you.
It is way better. A few things are happening. A little more debris is getting past the screen to the string filter so it does not clag as fast. And my wife left the home and we use half the water we used to. I now change the filter every 1 to 1.5 months. WAY better than every 3 days.
Thank you for the update
Great video! Have you thought about getting 2-3 spin down sediment of different mesh size in serie instead of just one? Personnally, I was thinking about minimum 3.
I wish the best for you and your family. Thank you and take care!
Funny you should mention that. the Rusco company just sent several of their filters. I'm gonna be doing another comparison very soon.
@@LandtoHouse There's no coincidence, only providence. ;) I was thinking maybe your 100 mesh + 500 mesh + 1000 mesh. I'll stay tuned for the update, thank you!
@Steve Andrews
Lower to higher mesh (100 -> 500 -> 1000 -> faucet, etc.)
Where did you get the bushings for the 2"! We can't find them for some reason...
Doesn’t the lack of sediment in the last filter tested mean it isn’t working . It isn’t trapping anything.
Why not add a 500 behind the 100 before your mesh filter?
Thanks for the video, I am currently going through the same process. Started with the spindown with cartridges, I could see after one day that I would need to change it very often. We only have sediment, no chemicals, at least at this time. When I realized how much sediment was in my water I decided to backflush my hot water heater, in service for less than 2 years. Needless to say it was full of sediment. It would not even drain without water pressure, I flushed it for something like 4 hours until the water was clear. Following this I decided to take a look inside of my pressure tank and it was really gunked up as well. Took it out of service tried to clean with bleach and vinegar and it did clean somewhat but it was still filthy. So I decided to put a new pressure tank in since this is our drinking water and it taste great and looks crystal clear. I would have thought it would taste like mud after seeing how much sediment is taken out in the filters. Anyway, I am rambling a bit, and I have a question. Why would it not be better to have your sediment filters in front of your pressure tank? I an DIY'ER and I am not saying it would be but have you thought about that or found any info saying it is better to filter after the pressure tank? Sediment must be settling in that pressure tank in my opinion. What do you think. I would love a reply and thanks again for the video.
The filters' manuals state to not place the filters before the water tank because of the unregulated pressure of the water coming from the pump. The housing and filter could get damaged and leak.
What he likely needs to do is to flush his well and/or raise up his pump because it might be sitting in sediment.
The problem that you potentially create is if your spin down filter becomes so clogged that it restricts the flow of water, your pressure relieve valve and switch is now located after the filter and does not obviously see the high pressure on the well pump side of the filter. This means that your well pump is continuing to pump against a restriction which is going to cause it to overheat whereas the pressure relief valve and associated switch turns the pump on and off is not seeing the high pressure because the filter is plugged and hence the switch is not going to turn off your pump. This is a potentially dangerous situation that could cause premature failure of your well pump.
Hey Bud. Can I have the filters you aren't using? I have stainless and mesh on irrigation and want to try different microns.
Pipes should also be grounded. The plastic housing breaks the ground. Install two brass clamps on either of the filter and run a decent gauge wire to allow ground connectivity.
Hey mate I would piss off the metal pipes & fittings with well water & use poly or brass fittings,makes a big difference as the metal ones will eventually rust & cause issues
Even the stainless steel?
@@LandtoHouse stainless all good for sure,bloody expensive,it looked like your piping was galvanised though?
The pipes from the pressure tank to the filter are galvanized. Then its pex for the house.
@@LandtoHouse yea I did once use galv piping in my bore water system in Australia but I’ve gone poly piping as eventually the fall piping would rust & cause more damage,wish I could afford stainless so I’ve settled for blue line thick wall piping on my bore & have not had an issue in over 15 years with poly piping
Hi Seth - Are you able to tell us the brand and make of the filter after the spin down and the amount of microns. I like how the top twists to shut off. Thanks and thanks for your great videos
What kind of house filter do you have next to the spin down?
My well is pulling sand and slit and they wanted to drill a new well… we tried twice and they didn’t hit water so we put on a sediment tank and that filter. I hope I don’t have to do this every week 🥴
We had the same problem of silt in the pipes and our well inspector told us to raise the pump 6 feet up and we did that and all of our problems went away. Your pump is too low, maybe raise it up more or less depending on your circumstance. Hopefully, your well level allows this. All well systems are different we were told. Think about what your pump is going through to pump the water up to you and if there is sediment in the system, that is not good for the pump and its seals. Picture the vortex of water turbulence every time the pump starts and sends water up.
Our well is 500 feet deep. We should be able to lift it a little. We just have not had it done. I imagine that would help a lot.
your on the right trail,have you looked into a commercial sand filters, one you can back-flush, sand filters are used on large sumps, and cooling towers for hvac systems, over time you will save money on filters, and labor, and you can have the sand filter on a timer
I have not seen those sand filters for a house. Very intriguing.
you can find the sand filters at a pumping supply house, i'm a retired steamfitter, and piping was the trade, boilers, chillers, you name it, i worked on the new installs, check around the net, in minniapolis, ans st paul, check out the on-line catalogs, good luck, i know you will find them...
sand filter, it's a round vessel, it has sand in the bottom of it, about 50 to 60 pounds of sand siltcon sand, the filter is approx 24 to 30 inches in diameter
Or a residential swimming pool sand filter would work quite well also
Does a ram pump work better or worse or not at all with a flap valve at the inlet to the pump as well as the normal ones to send more water and pressure out the output in stead of half going back to the source?
I installed mine before my well tank.
Be careful of that. If it clogs the pressure switch won't stop and can burn up the well pump.
That larger filter requires a minimum gpm flow to function properly according to spec.
Where do I find the large one you have? I need one like right away can you tell me the name or model of the new one you got please
What is the model of the whole house filter?
Does cleaning the filter and reinstalling it every time allow air into the pipes? Do I have to worry about bleeding the air from my pipes afterward?
your faucet will do it for you
you're supposed to mount that filter before the pressure tank, when you blow it down water travels from the pressure tank in the reverse direction to normal flow and forcefully blows out the sediment.
From my research you cannot mount before the pressure tank. If it gets clogged the pump would run full force trying to fill the tank pressure and burn up the well pump.
@@LandtoHouse You're supposed to mount the pressure switch upstream of the filter. The installation manual shows how, but this is not a typical arrangement so I understand why you've plumbed it the way you have. The other thing you can do is plumb a bypass in such a way that you can reverse the flow through the filter, that allows a more typical tank/switch arrangement.
Have you considered having a 50 micron spin down after the 100 micron to extend life of cartridge filter? I just received a 50 micron spin down which I am confident will be sufficient as I do not have the amount of silt you have
i rely my water from rain collected in a huge tank. does the rusco filter require high pressure?
Dude - have you thought of getting a longer (taller) inlet pipe on the right to raise the whole system a few feet off the ground? And get rid of the galvanized pipes.
So I have a 250 polyester on my rusco spin down. I noticed silt was getting through to much and was hoping that was the right approach, please enlighten me which one has the finer holes because I was told the 100 was the average and going up is trapping more
I think its the other direction? Particle size of 100 is smaller than 250. So if you went with a 50 it would stop even more. A human hair is around a 50 micron.
@@LandtoHouse 100 mesh lets through more than 250 mesh
I think he's talking about mesh, not microns
Is there one that does an auto flush when full?
You can get the timer valve that will flush for you.
Had a very similar problem. I had to use a larger sized filter over the smaller recommended size. The larger filter extended my time to service the filter as in your case. Any issues with slightly elevated iron?
i would raise the filter higher by extending the pipe from the pump then have then further apart to get the bucket under i would have the nylone filter then the stainless then the string filter
Hello, thank you for your video - I also have to cope with a sandy well and thought that a bigger/larger filter is always better that a smaller one.
Also liked the ideas of David E. and Pietro - it seems they are professionals - will take their advices in account.
To Rusco Co.: the translucent removable part does not look reliable at all, specially the bottom part where the valve connects - I would prefer to have it in solid bronze with a gauge installed on the top to show the pressure on output end.
Now, I also got an DIY (unprofessional) idea and namely: to turn this huge Rusco filter into a 2 stage sediment filter. I would insert inside the bigger/stock filter (accommodate and seal ) a second mesh with a thinner grit mesh. Of course it would make sense the outer/stock/main mesh to have much bigger grit. Let's say: outer 400 micron and inner (added) 100micron, or whatever - depending on specific of your well sediments. Of course it might affect the hydrodynamics of the vortex and the pressure, but I think that way we might increase about 1.5 times both the service period and the quality of the water.
I am skipping the technical difficulties of accommodating the second filter, but I guess it is possible to be done.
Thanks for watching. This larger Rusco is working well. I no longer have to clean the filter every 3 days. As for the clear cylender. It is working fine so far. Once lasted a couple years with no issues until I changed it out with this one. Its clear so you can see how much sediment has been captured.
I've had 2 plumbers recently tell me to just bypass the sediment filter altogether. Doesn't seem like great advice to me but anyone else using well water and not using a sediment filter? Would it shorten the lifespan of the softener, etc?
60/40 psi switch setting ?
Any reason why dont you add a few inches to that vertical pipe just before your filters? Then you can put that bucket under them easier
LOL, i agree, it gives me a headache watching him fight to get the bucket under each time, a very easy fix to lift it up for much better access.
The main reason I don't do that is because I never remember to get the pipe at the hardware store. Haha
That would make life a lot easier wouldn't it?
@@LandtoHouse Also add a ball valve on the house side to shut when you are working on the filters so the house does not drain unless you want it to do so.
Do you have any experience with ispring spin down filters? Most reviews of any spin down on high sediment say it will need to be flushed often. I noticed there is an auto flush ispring spin down filter. Problem is it goes from $45 to $450. Makes me wonder if there are better options.
Ok, so how about installing two spin downs into the flow?
Now that my wife has moved out we use half the water and the filters last for 1 to 3 months. Way better than every 3 days. haha
@@LandtoHouse dude no way??? Oh man. I'm sad now. "Clogged pipes" can ruin a relationship in other words!
Yes when "another plumber" is the issue.... Not to give too much information. In my wife's case it was "several plumbers"...
@@LandtoHouse damn dude...she went "plumb-loco"...no offense.
@@georgesedeno7891 Haha too funny. Sad but true.
My main complaint with spin down filters is size. They are way to small. I had one and had to remove it. Just to much maintenance. They should be 4x the size.
Where did you get the 2inch spin down filter?
Rusco sent this to me for the review.
@@LandtoHouse i didn't see it when checking the website, may have to call them. Thanks for the info!!!
Pull the well pump out put a 4 inch sleeve over it seal the top of the sleeve and put small slits below the motor you will never get silt again or ever need to do a filter installer or change. Eliminated at the source don't try to fight it further down the line pull that well pump put a 4 inch sleeve over it and you won't have a drop of sediment ever again. I've done it time and time again and people love there water now;)
Interesting idea! Could you please consider posting a video next time you do this, or maybe posting an article someplace with some pictures?
put a barb fitting with some hose and you can direct it up to the bucket
I bought a place with this smaller Rusco spindown filter, but it is so tight, I can't hand-unscrew it... do you have an recommendation for a filter wrench to unscrew it?
Maybe an oil filter wrench?
The 2'' version has a minimum flow requirement of 18 GPM in order for the spindown action to work properly, this is mentioned in the manual.
What is "spindown action", specifically? Thanks.
I noticed multiple people agreed with this. I noticed he has a pressure tank so he is on a well. I do not know how many residences run over 10 GPM, so this may be a little off setting for someone looking to install their first spin down filter on a household well
Use multiple sized filters in sequence. Starting largest to smallest. Too small a filter at the beginning of the process is going to plug quicker.
If it's letting more silt into the other filter just imagine what it's letting into your faucets
Model # for the 2 inch please!
Two questions:
1. Any news on if it actually lasted the anticipated 2 months?
2. in my own water filtering system (saltless), the nylon large sediment filter sits before the other filtration media...was just wondering if you or your viewers have tried adding a sediment filter in front of the spin down, like the one you have "behind"?
2. The point of the spindown is because it captures coarser/bigger particles and is reusable (no need to change filter media ), you save on changing the finer sediment filters which are single use, can't be washed.
Great info! Living also in NC, we have heavy clay silt and sediment. Just learned about the Rusco Sediment Trap and plan to install it before a backwash turbidity filter. Was hoping the Rusco Sediment Trap would do the trick but because the clay in our water is silt (making our water orange and gunking up our appliances, etc), looks like we're going to have to invest in the pricey backwash system. Have you considered one?
Karen: Are you sure the orange color is just from clay and not IRON?
Hi Seth, your video was just what i needed. I have been researching relentlessly on how to clear up my well water. I have a question. Did the 2" spin down come with the bushings to reduce from 2" down to 3/4"?
Shows them as an optional purchase on their site. I’m having similar issues did you purchase it?
Amen brotha i no how you feel man lol its aggravating and cost alot of money this is why im looking at the spin down filters
Installing the large filter has been so nice. I now clean that once a month and change the string filter every 2 months. Seems to work well.
What is the final result of the large filter??
3 months and have not changed it haha. But it's time. So I would say it has added an extra 2 months without having to change or clean.
I would replace that galvanized pipe asap with PVC or anything else!
Nice video brother. I need to get off my butt and install such a system.
Amazing job man, thanks for sharing your setup
Thanks for the helpful video. Did you end up getting 2 months out of it? Also, do you base your maintenance (flush & clean filter, etc) based on the water pressure in the house dropping or just do it on a set schedule?
We just moved from the city out to a more rural area and this is my first experience working on wells. Water pressure in the house was trash, especially in the third floor bathroom, but just flushing the spin down did wonders to improve that and I haven't even taken off the filter and cleaned it out yet.
You need to hook a garden hose up to it and drain it outside
Yes I do. The company has sent over the auto valve too.
Watched your video, very informative. I email Rusco regarding my issues (exactly like yours) and was told to go with the 100 Stainless steel filter. I know u want the larger unit, but still not sure about filters because of their recommendations. How is the larger unit working with the polyester filter?
Thank you.
The poly does not catch as small a partical. But still does well. Its actually nice not having to clean as much. I now clean every 2 months vs 3 days!
@@LandtoHouse Were both the stainless (original filter you had) and the new, larger (2") poly filter both 100 mesh size - so it was comparing "apples to apples", in this case? Thanks.
Nice water