one of the best ive seen DIY, and the only little issues are easily sorted out? use springs, not rubber. they need to be REALLY sloppy and free to kick around how they want. the tub and contents find their own natural resonances. we never had to bolt our commercial units down. had five about this size running at any one time... you can play around with the weights on either end of the shaft to produce interesting "tumbling" effects. ie, 180 degrees out produces nice figure 8 patterns. different agitations have different effects. you really can spend years learning the ins and outs of such a "simple" thing! different medias, different types of detergent and ratios of water to media to detergents... yeah. they can do more than just knock burrs off. to get a "mirror polish" on stainless is pretty rewarding... the drain... best thing i found was a piece of 6 inch pipe as a sump, with a nylon grate wedged in. usually theyre way too small, and block up way too fast. the holes need to be countersunk, large face down so that they also tend to "unblock". once aggregate is small enough to fit in a parallel hole it wedges in... blocked! the grate needs lots of surface area, as does the passage feeding to any drain fitting. i learnt very early on just how fast they destroy any exposed metal... replaced the scungy nylon grate with perforated mesh... lasted a week. nylon went back in. plumbing fittings get shaken to pieces in a matter of hours... all that lasted was having a spigot welded on and hose wire-clamped (not standard hose clamps...) to an external tap. had a "pet" piece of tungsten carbide, over three years it slowly eroded as well... about as long as my sanity held at that place before i quit, lol... example of how things were there... the lining had decayed on one machine. at which point the side was wearing out about once a month. i organised a local shop that did "rhinocoat" epoxy for the inside of truck trays to come and see how it would work for this application... for FREE mind you as he saw the opportunity too... the stuffs meant to be pretty well much indestructible. if it worked, we both win. if not, we know and the machines buggered anyway... day he rocks up, boss shows up with some rubber two part stuff in a drum... "dont worry, use this!" well, this is awkward... it lasted a week. it cost something close to $1000... "oh, but you wanted to use the two part so i bought it..." "no, i did not. i told you exactly what i had in mind..." that was the final straw, if i recall... sabotaging your own business at every step is not a good practise, in my mind... the real irony? the industry was hardfacing, wear protection... making mining and agricultural tools...
That's awesome! I have an industrial-grade tumbler and that thing may be loud, but being able to run parts in the background is super handy. Depending on how nasty the burrs are on your aluminum parts, I have found that ceramic media works well but it will give a much more "matte" surface finish than with the plastic media. Mind you the burrs I was dealing with were from machined parts with no deburring so, experiment.
@@somersetgrill you can make it out of stainless steel! I know some people that have done that. You won’t have to paint it that way but the cost in materials is a little bit more 👍
@@Darnic-Fabon thicker parts 3/16 and up it does remove the little bit of dross. On parts like 16ga it didn’t do as well. There was a good amount of dross on there because the torch couldn’t get up to speed due to the small cuts.
one of the best ive seen DIY, and the only little issues are easily sorted out?
use springs, not rubber. they need to be REALLY sloppy and free to kick around how they want. the tub and contents find their own natural resonances.
we never had to bolt our commercial units down. had five about this size running at any one time...
you can play around with the weights on either end of the shaft to produce interesting "tumbling" effects. ie, 180 degrees out produces nice figure 8 patterns. different agitations have different effects. you really can spend years learning the ins and outs of such a "simple" thing! different medias, different types of detergent and ratios of water to media to detergents... yeah. they can do more than just knock burrs off. to get a "mirror polish" on stainless is pretty rewarding...
the drain... best thing i found was a piece of 6 inch pipe as a sump, with a nylon grate wedged in. usually theyre way too small, and block up way too fast. the holes need to be countersunk, large face down so that they also tend to "unblock". once aggregate is small enough to fit in a parallel hole it wedges in... blocked! the grate needs lots of surface area, as does the passage feeding to any drain fitting.
i learnt very early on just how fast they destroy any exposed metal... replaced the scungy nylon grate with perforated mesh... lasted a week. nylon went back in.
plumbing fittings get shaken to pieces in a matter of hours... all that lasted was having a spigot welded on and hose wire-clamped (not standard hose clamps...) to an external tap.
had a "pet" piece of tungsten carbide, over three years it slowly eroded as well... about as long as my sanity held at that place before i quit, lol... example of how things were there... the lining had decayed on one machine. at which point the side was wearing out about once a month.
i organised a local shop that did "rhinocoat" epoxy for the inside of truck trays to come and see how it would work for this application... for FREE mind you as he saw the opportunity too... the stuffs meant to be pretty well much indestructible. if it worked, we both win. if not, we know and the machines buggered anyway...
day he rocks up, boss shows up with some rubber two part stuff in a drum... "dont worry, use this!"
well, this is awkward...
it lasted a week. it cost something close to $1000...
"oh, but you wanted to use the two part so i bought it..."
"no, i did not. i told you exactly what i had in mind..." that was the final straw, if i recall... sabotaging your own business at every step is not a good practise, in my mind...
the real irony? the industry was hardfacing, wear protection... making mining and agricultural tools...
A lot of lots of lots of thank you share ur knowledge to the world.god bless you
That's awesome! I have an industrial-grade tumbler and that thing may be loud, but being able to run parts in the background is super handy. Depending on how nasty the burrs are on your aluminum parts, I have found that ceramic media works well but it will give a much more "matte" surface finish than with the plastic media. Mind you the burrs I was dealing with were from machined parts with no deburring so, experiment.
I agree on the ceramic media for aluminum. We use that in a lot of our aluminum applications.
Well done! Good job!
Very interesting and informative video. Thank you.
Thank you! 🙏🏼
Nice work dudes
What size of parts are possible with this tumbler.
Great Video, is there any reason you wouldn’t build it out of stainless steel?
@@somersetgrill you can make it out of stainless steel! I know some people that have done that. You won’t have to paint it that way but the cost in materials is a little bit more 👍
@@laserbrosusa thanks for the reply, definitely going build one thanks for sharing
Very useful
Glad to hear that!
Will this remove plasma cutting dross? If so, where is a good place to source the coarse media?
@@mccurdywoodandmetal it should be able to, but it might take some long run times. I get my media from McMaster Carr!
@@laserbrosusa Ok, I just ordered the most aggressive stuff they carry. We will see.
@@mccurdywoodandmetal So how did it work?
@@mccurdywoodandmetal did it remove the dross from the plasma parts? That’s what I want it for. Thanks
@@Darnic-Fabon thicker parts 3/16 and up it does remove the little bit of dross. On parts like 16ga it didn’t do as well. There was a good amount of dross on there because the torch couldn’t get up to speed due to the small cuts.
What type of motor and frequency contoller you use? Can you share the specs?
That information is in the free plans!
A great way
How to make it faster and how powerful the engine is 0:21 0:21
using springs instead of rubber isolators...
Link to vibration motor?
Nice, What is Uhmw ?
@@siddheshsuryavanshi202 it’s a really hard slipper plastic
@@laserbrosusa thanks
Do not twist wires before crimping.
Huh, I've never heard that before? Does it make it more likely to loosen?