Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I was seriously concerned with how tight mine were. Rode the bike all day today without issue. Taking it out again tomorrow for more! Ride safe!
Thanks for the comment. Sorry it took me so long to respond. When torquing the center steering nut you'll need to loosen all of the top triple clamp pinch bolts first. I generally do this center nut by feel rather than a specific torque spec. You can tighten it by hand with a wrench and feel the steering, you obviously don't want any binding from stop to stop so if you feel that it's a tad to tight. I know this isn't very descriptive but I hope this helps.
Had trouble following so wrote out your steps if anyone wants to print them out. Please update if you discover any changes. Kove 450R Front forks and axle reset -- (from rider perspective) 1. front wheel off the ground 2. tighten top triple bolts (17NM) 3. loosen bottom triple bolts 4. loosen axle nut 5. loosen pinch bolts 6. spin tire, hit front brake 3-4x 7. tighten bottom triple bolts (15NM) 8. slightly tighten right pinch bolts 9. tighten axle nut (28NM) 10. loosen pinch bolts 11. spin tire, hit front brake 3-4x 12. tighten right pinch bolts (15NM) 13. spin tire, hit front brake 3-4x 14. tighten left pinch bolts (15NM) From Kove manual (torque specs): Bolts and nuts M6 12NM Bolts and nuts M8 22NM Bolts and nuts M10 60NM Front axle nut M16 88NM Rear axle nut M22 128NM For KTM (250-530): Lower triple clamp bolts 15NM Upper triple clamp bolts 20NM Axle pinch bolts 10NM
Thanks for the comment. I appreciate the input. KTM and Husqvarna are both at 15NM I believe as well. I actually spoke with a rep and they are reworking their torque specs for these bikes. Many have questions on why they were so high. I'm sort of waiting for them to get back with me as well but for now I'm running these without issue.
@@EnduroAmerica it's great to have info from other manufacturers, and even better to know about Kove is still doing revisions on the manual. We know their translations and technical manual is not the best 😅.
@@GranXian669 I'm pretty sure an outside company wrote the manual for them which is even more of a concern. I just posted 2 of the longest oil change videos of all time, hope to shorten them when I have a chance next time around, but even some of the torque specs on the hardware for the oil change seemed excessively tight according to the manual. I went with my gut and what I've used over the last 20 years.
👍🏼 Very clear and concise (like the oilchanges 😉) video. Ariemann1 ( th-cam.com/video/sRcVGxzdaao/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1IGW6bzZxNwKtACT ) from down under suggests "compressing" the fork while having all screws open, whereas you "only" suggest rotating the wheel and then brake. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the comment. I haven't watched A1's video. This technique was originally taught to me by an American Dakar racer many years ago. Unless you're compressing and then releasing all tension from the front end, as in the wheel dropping while still being elevated, I'm not sure it will produce the desired affect. Again, I haven't watched his video and am speculating. If I get a chance I'll check it out and report back.
I loosened my bottom triple clamps the day I assembled the bike. They were cranked!
Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I was seriously concerned with how tight mine were. Rode the bike all day today without issue. Taking it out again tomorrow for more! Ride safe!
Do you maybe know the original torque of the top yoke nut on steering? Or what torque did you apply?
Thanks for the comment. Sorry it took me so long to respond. When torquing the center steering nut you'll need to loosen all of the top triple clamp pinch bolts first. I generally do this center nut by feel rather than a specific torque spec. You can tighten it by hand with a wrench and feel the steering, you obviously don't want any binding from stop to stop so if you feel that it's a tad to tight. I know this isn't very descriptive but I hope this helps.
Thank you!
all of a sudden everyone turns in to an engineer lol
Thanks for the comment. Hahaha you got it! We do our best 😉
Had trouble following so wrote out your steps if anyone wants to print them out.
Please update if you discover any changes.
Kove 450R
Front forks and axle reset --
(from rider perspective)
1. front wheel off the ground
2. tighten top triple bolts (17NM)
3. loosen bottom triple bolts
4. loosen axle nut
5. loosen pinch bolts
6. spin tire, hit front brake 3-4x
7. tighten bottom triple bolts (15NM)
8. slightly tighten right pinch bolts
9. tighten axle nut (28NM)
10. loosen pinch bolts
11. spin tire, hit front brake 3-4x
12. tighten right pinch bolts (15NM)
13. spin tire, hit front brake 3-4x
14. tighten left pinch bolts (15NM)
From Kove manual (torque specs):
Bolts and nuts M6 12NM
Bolts and nuts M8 22NM
Bolts and nuts M10 60NM
Front axle nut M16 88NM
Rear axle nut M22 128NM
For KTM (250-530):
Lower triple clamp bolts 15NM
Upper triple clamp bolts 20NM
Axle pinch bolts 10NM
Hey thanks for all of that! You rock!
IMO 15 N.m for a M8 bolt is too low torque. Usually has to be from 20 to 25 N.m. Just my opinion, if it works for you is OK 🤟
Thanks for the comment. I appreciate the input. KTM and Husqvarna are both at 15NM I believe as well. I actually spoke with a rep and they are reworking their torque specs for these bikes. Many have questions on why they were so high. I'm sort of waiting for them to get back with me as well but for now I'm running these without issue.
@@EnduroAmerica it's great to have info from other manufacturers, and even better to know about Kove is still doing revisions on the manual. We know their translations and technical manual is not the best 😅.
@@GranXian669 I'm pretty sure an outside company wrote the manual for them which is even more of a concern. I just posted 2 of the longest oil change videos of all time, hope to shorten them when I have a chance next time around, but even some of the torque specs on the hardware for the oil change seemed excessively tight according to the manual. I went with my gut and what I've used over the last 20 years.
@@EnduroAmerica I have watch your videos and are nice!!! IMO have the correct lenght, you can see how much time takes for a novice to do the job 👍🏼
👍🏼 Very clear and concise (like the oilchanges 😉) video.
Ariemann1 ( th-cam.com/video/sRcVGxzdaao/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1IGW6bzZxNwKtACT ) from down under suggests "compressing" the fork while having all screws open, whereas you "only" suggest rotating the wheel and then brake. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the comment. I haven't watched A1's video. This technique was originally taught to me by an American Dakar racer many years ago. Unless you're compressing and then releasing all tension from the front end, as in the wheel dropping while still being elevated, I'm not sure it will produce the desired affect. Again, I haven't watched his video and am speculating. If I get a chance I'll check it out and report back.