Hardest Route in Italy | Wonderland 9b/9b+ | Adam Ondra
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
- Even though the crag is called Terra Promessa (Promised Land), I hadn't thought that it would once host Arco's and Italy's hardest route ⚡. The hard routes around 8b and 8c were developed mainly by Reini Scherer in the late 90s and since the development of this crag has mostly stopped. There were still quite a few spots where the rock was untouched, but the question was if it would go. Alfredo Webber, once again, saw this wonderful line, put the effort, and placed the bolts, but the question mark was about the very beginning. I found a detour slightly to the left using a few very slopy pinches and tiny crimps, replaced 3 bolts, and it was obvious that line was possible!
We worked on the route for a few days in the autumn with @steghiso. Eventually, I felt I was quite close to sending, but despite this winter being extremely dry, this crag is not exactly winter crag and the crucial tufa kept seeping. The route dried up in March and after a few days of work, I did the first free no-fall ascent through "Wonderland", some of my proudest first ascents!
Regarding the grade, I know it is considerably harder than most of the 9b's, but if it really breaks into the 9b+ barrier, it is really difficult to know...
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
01:00 - Adam Ondra talks about the project on Terra Promesa (Masone, Arco)
02:13 - Working out a climbing route (kneebar, crux move…)
03:06 - First light tries
03:56 - Broken hold after the crux
04:23 - The first real good try
06:28 - The end of the first day on Terra Promesa
06:54 - The second day? Today is not the day!
07:21 - Alfredo Weber talks about Terra Promesa crag
09:18 - The third day - the first try: 2 mistakes
11:28 - Pushing just too much
12:20 - The fourth day
13:35 - The beginning part of the Wonderland 9b/9b+
14:19 - The kneebar
15:25 - The crux
18:29 - The anchor of route Wonderland 9b/9b+
18:50 - Adam talks about the ascent with Alfredo, Pietro Dalpra and his wife Iva
20:06 - Why the grade 9b/9b+?
20:30 - Funny outro
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Thumbnail picture by: Petr Chodura
Special thanks to
Alfredo Webber
Pietro dal Pra
Mauro Mabboni
Story by
Adam Ondra
Directed & edited by
Laco Korbel
Camera
Pavel Klement
Laco Korbel
Jan Vogl
Stefano Ghisolfi
Production
Kateřina Kuřátková
Jan Verner
Jakub Pína
Subtitles by
Jarka Marčeková
© 2022 AO Production s.r.o.
Songlist
Fugu Vibes - Rusty Telescope
Sirus Music - Cave Crystals
DeKibo - Spirit of Wars
Life is an epic film - Get your way
#climbing #rockclimbing #mammut @mammut - กีฬา
I’m chronically ill and disabled and mostly bed-bound at this point in constant, severe pain. I’m only 30 and I feel like my life is pretty much over. Lately I’ve been obsessed with watching climbing videos, videos of mountaineering, surfing videos. and videos of thru hikes. It helps me forget about my life for a little while and daydream that I could do those things in another life, had I been healthy. I’m in awe of the things you can do. Never take your health for granted. You never know how important it is until it’s gone.
Your comment gave me shivers. I send you the warmest hug, you are a real hero ❤️
Wishing you the best
Prayers for you friend. I hope things improve for you
My thoughts. ❤
What condition do you have?
No matter which route, Adam will always be able to find a knee bar
he could probably kneebar a rope
Someone not as good at it might repeat one of his routes without a knee bar and upgrade them to 10a haha! He’s incredible
Imagine finding a new knee bar on an Adam Ondra route 😂
@@VDB420 Blasphemy!
No knee bar no ondra
We all know Adam is the best around when it comes to climbing. But his team is now starting to produce some of the best climbing videos too. Great work!
That was the thing I thought about as well when watching the video.
adam is based and mountainpilled
Literally every video is as good as Silence now
Thought the same thing! Setting a new standard… kind of fitting!!!
@@NLGwotlkclassic nb
Shout out to Alfredo, for recognizing that chipping was a mistake and saying in front of a camera that he did it as well. That is what I call self development! Sei una leggenda!
No one cares about your lbgtq logo
Seconded!
Agree perfectly
Why is it considered bad or unethical if you chip away on the rock to get better holds and "unlock" a route? Who are you hurting with that?
@@ViMe1337 consider this, the rock, the wall was there for millenniums at least before the humans, so after in short periods of time like 50 years we have walls slippery, or artificial holds, or chipped rocks just for the will to get a pass, well in like a couple of centuries there will be no more good rocks/walls to hang on. What about a thousand years then?
The flow when Adam sends the route is amazing, so much control, inhale and exhale, speed, technique and the iconic SCREAMS.... everything fits perfectly, the music is great too. Good work, incredible.
exactly what I was saying to myself when he goes for the send. When gets into the flow/zen mindset to send a route, and goes through the crux without making the same "mistakes", it's just amazing and beautiful.
I do mostly indoor bouldering (climbed outdoors as well) but this is on another level.
a few years ago, movies like this where a part of stuff like reel rock festivals. Now its just on TH-cam. Amazing production quality.
I like how you include your weird days. Shows that even one of the best climbers in the world is human and has off days. Shows how hard u work to be one of the best if not the best
Bro, deff the best.
@@mechanicgray It depends on the specializations, he's not the strongest at dynamic moves, but extremely good at a lot of other things.
@@trashcant69 he is the best all around climber to ever live. Look at his resume. Noone has done what he has done.
This is a fact.
@@trashcant69 totally agree with the sentiment of your original comment. But @Climbaholic is correct, other climbers might be better at a certain point at one time. But Overall speaking he most def is the greatest climber to walk the earth til today
Amazing video as always! I love that you include some of the history behind a route and the crags and that you interview legends like Alfredo Weber. Adams perfect technique is also always a pleasure to watch :D
Wow the story telling, climbing, and atmosphere was absolutely stunning in this video! You had me captivated the whole time
Adam , yourself and your crew are absolutely amazing. The locations , the editing , the story behind actually sending your routes are always a joy to watch and experience. Thank you to everyone that puts so much effort into making these epic climbing videos. Above all thank you Adam for being a wonderful human being and being a badass climber to boot 👍
Really liked the editing in this one. Edited like a movie kinda. Really got me into it
Yeah, the storytelling aspect was really well done and the music and cuts were perfect. Thumbs up for whoever did the editing. (Of course, the video work was really good, too, because you don't have much to edit without awesome footage.)
Climbing aside, these videos are getting better and better! The cinematography and use of music is amazing!
I mean, these videos are simply amazing. Congrats to adam and the team
Fascinating that even after all these hours on the route - you may still find a new move
Absolutely amazing! There is no one like Adam. Also great music choice! thank you
In this video I learnt that Adam really knows his body and understands how to listen to it. That is truly impressive and is the mark of the best athletes
Uploading videos of this quality every one or two weeks is really insane, it's always a pleasure and you inspire all of us Adam !
Doing fantastic chap, keep on climbing.
Amazing climb and excellent film making! I loved the description and editing on the part describing the micro beta errors that lead to your fall. Fascinating and so clearly told.
Whenever I get to 1/3 - 1/4 of an new video from Adam, I find myself involuntarily clenching 3-4 body parts. Absolutely awesome climb!
Best in the business climbing an amazing route and being filmed by the bests in their business.
Congrats! Also Huge thanks to Alfredo for the honest words
What a beautiful video and precise description by Adam.
I have to admit that he always reminds my of Frodo when he's wearing his weddingring around the neck xD
This is an awesome video. The music on the approach gave me the same feeling as "Arrival" (2016) - something incredible and totally breaking the ground is going to happen right now - and the happiness of the sent that everyone shared with Adam was just infectious. Congratulations, Adam!
I kept thinking with each bolt in towards the end he was gonna stop but he just kept going up. Insanely impressive. The endurance is crazy
Wow well done to the team and to Adam. That crux sequence looked absolutely brutal!
another great video! I love the chill mood in the beginning and then rapid build up of tension in the middle. Then when you see Adam stick the every hold around the crux. The music mirroring the rapid climbing and the breaks in between. The talk in the end rounds it off perfectly. Crazy quality of a video, as usual (which shouldn't be normal, but for you it seems natural). Thanks!
The cinematography is seriously the best. Stunned at the quality of this production.
This is pushing me to get back on ropes my good man 😎
amazing editing and music!! , (and climbing of course) its so pure!
realy amazing how it shows the process in detail
I didn’t know I needed Adam’s crux-screams edited perfectly into that beat drop, but here we are.
what a beast. he just attacks the route so fiercely, yet precisely
Jel jsi jako stroj! Neskutečně dlouhá trasa. Velký respekt!!!
Wow! The passion comes through directly with this video, it’s a masterclass through and through! The line looks beautiful, the high foot out right in the crux section looks insane but in context compared to everything around it maybe par for the course. Way to go Adam!
Fantastic video, thanks Adam again for sharing your climbs!
Way to go Adam! Always love seeing what your up to, thanks you for making these videos!
Such an inspiring climb, so much tension through it all, thank you for posting these videos, you are the best !
Amazing route! Only watching the holds and moves makes me doubt how could a natural route be that beautiful.
Soo beautiful! I loved every second of it. You were so collected and analytic about your journey. Thank you!
Incredible job Adam! Always a delight to see you send the hardest climbs in the world.
Great work Adam and team! Love the cinematography, story telling, music, passion and dedication every time!! 👍👍👍
Like I always say, only the beggining of this video is pure art. It amazes me how much effort is put in each video. Thanks Adam as always. And like I've said before, please come back to Chile. Congrats!
One of your best videos Adam!! You killed it.
This video had no bussiness being this well edited. Well done! Loved the music!
Wow, what an incredible speed and smoothness in your movements Adam!
Absolutely inspiring. Thx Adam + Team
That was awesome. Amazing editing on the crux section! The music and music pauses made it even more intense.
truly a top notch film. Amazing editing too. This is the kinda stuff that pushes the whole climbing community forward!
Absolutely stunning video and send!! Truly remarkable work Adam 🔥
The climbing as always is incredible very impressive send. Props to the editing team as well this video is top notch
so fascinating to watch adam project at/around his limit. the precision, the discipline, the body awareness is amazing. a truly inspiring thing to watch
Adam - this was so inspirational both from a physical and mental standpoint. Lethal to my mind! (In a good way) keep it up brother! Side note: KILLER MUSIC
This was a beautiful video from start to finish. Such graceful climbing combined with amazing landscape cinemotography. Maybe one of your best yet!
Adam, you're great and humble; I love you. I also want to point out the high quality of the video. The camera points of view, selected footages, the right timing of every music. Congrats to the video team. This was first class.
At the beginning, the music, composition, everything looks so beautiful. Love watching ❤️
That’s was great piece of cinematography, congrats to Adam for documenting extraordinary effort and to production team👍
Amazing send and beautifully shot and edited video! Bravo!
One of the best short films I've ever seen ... Action, Talent, Fabulous Music tuned specifically to the climb, great great job to all involved.
I'm not a climber myself, but I really enjoy watching your videos for some reason 🙂 Fascinating and impressive, and the production is outstanding!
So well done Adam, you are a true inspiration!
Pretty amazing video and achievement by Adam and vision by Alfredo to see the potential years ago. Always an impressive send and it will be interesting to see what other climbers think when they send.
That was exciting! Outstanding job by everyone involved!!!
Would love to see a behind the scenes video on the team that makes these amazing short cinematic pieces... more the process and the steps you go through while editing and planning… amazing work!!
12:20 that's a scary shot :o haha wonderful video, as always!
the production quality is amazing 👏 great send! unbelievable performance! what a nice route
Hi Adam from Australia. You are an inspiration and a warrior of the rock. Care and blessings to your dreams. Thank you!
Incredible solidity and pace and perfect music, all together it makes an epic video
Incredible work of AO production team. And of course, incredible Adam!
It terrifies me but watching you do this almost becomes hypnotic, it looks as if you flow upwards. Awesome as ever 👍
Adam Ondra combined with this production value is just something else. Amazing video!
The quality of this video in general is incredible as always, but it is by far the best audio production I've heard on any climbing video. Amazing job!
Incredible. This kind of absolute human skill, determination and adaptation shows we as a species are incredible and bound for fantastic things.
Your screams and the music gaves me goosebumps. Truly an amazing thing to watch, let alone become your feat.
Obrovská gratulace Áďo!! Parádní video a ty emoce na konci s Ivčou mě vždycky dojmou :-)
Beautifully climbed and beautifully shot
Moc se mi líbí Adamova pokora v číslování! Díky ti!
This has to be the most beautiful climb area and ascent I've seen in my life! You and the team are absolute legends! 😜
the production quality and story telling is amazing. keep it up.
great video adam!!!! love the color contrast of your harness and clothes.
Great movie and great fun watching!
KING OF ALL KINGS. Unreal talent my friend, never stop.
Your ratings are so crazy, you never underestimate the route and always stay true to the grade standards.
Amazing video! The quality of the scenes was top notch!
Congratulation to Adam and Italy, Well done all supporting lads! and the team also did a good job producing this video!
Congratulations to you and the team. 👍🏻
The production and Adams' skill are 1st class.
Perfectissimo Adam 👏🏻
Vvýborně!
Whether it’s your climbing or videos, your attention to detail, high standards and extreme hard work ethic is apparent.
Wonderful to see your fellow climber Stefano Ghisolfi behind some of the camera work.
“Promising try, let’s see what happens next try” wow Adam, your mindset is now as inspiring as your climbing! Way to go
👍👍👍 And I commend you on the musical background which is lovely
you just appreciate the build up, the history, the way of beta change and the beautiful images in a wonderful land
wow, congrats Adam!! well executed
Great video. you truly are the best climber of all time and not only that but you create very entertaining videos for you’re audience! from the cinematography to the music everything really dose blend well.
amazing production - loved this one!!!!
Amazing Video and even more amazing climbing! Thanks for the video
Amazing video , wow congrats Adam
These dudes are Assassins. Adam, Climbing Like a Czech Etzio Auditore Da Firenze from Assassins Creed. These Men are super Human
Great video Adam and congrats on the send
Something about watching Adam climb that just hits different. So inspiring.
congrats on FA! you make hard look so easy! keep it up Adam 😎
this isn't a video... it is a MOVIE!! thanks for sharing WONDERLAND with us!!!
Loved the music on this video. Great climbing as always!
Wow, such a good Video of such good climbing. It's really instructive, to watch Adams technique. Thank you.
Excellent! 👏👏👏 I love watching these videos. I have climbed things my whole life, but never got to “know the ropes” literally speaking. I am now at 39 starting. I am excited to have fun and climb some fun routes while I still have mobility and energy. I am blessed to have these things when I know people my age who are living with chronic pain and disability already in life. Im ready to get outside of my fears (which are mostly social) and push myself. Learn to trust myself and others more. Climbing is more than just climbing. It’s taught me about life. Sometimes you can’t go back. You just have to take a deep breath and figure out a way up.