Quickest way to go from a 3:1 to a 5:1. Unclip the pulley used for 3:1 and move it to the anchor. Leave the Prussik or line lock. Take the two lines that are coming off the original single pulley and pull back to where the single pulley was originally. Place a double pulley here and run the two lines through it
21:50 You have a 18:1 on the slackline and a 17:1 at the anchor. You made a 3:1 pulling on your 2:1 that was pulling on your final 3:1. Only bad part is the efficiency of carabiners as pulleys are shit, like 45%. So putting them at the start of the system you loose almost all you MA right off the bat. It's probably only a little better than the 6:1. BUT if you move the more efficient hangovers closer in the system to where you are pulling and the biners further (i.e. switch the black hangover with the first biner and the yellow on with another biner), you will preserve energy early in the system. This will maximize the actual MA at the end of the system. The math just works out that way. The 18:1 will be quite a bit more powerful than how it is now.
I stay in India where you don't get good slackline/ highline equipment. Every bloody thing has to be picked up from US/ Europe. Thanks for saving me a whole lot of money, effort and angst. If you guys plan a trip this side, do get in touch. Big fan of the series, best content.
mohit tanwar thanks. These videos are specifically targeted for people in your situation where every piece of gear you order has to count because access to it is so hard. I may make a 4th video sharing even more ways to save money. It would be amazing to get a full slack/highline kit for under $500 new.
This is an old video, but if anyone is watching it now, like me, here's a tip. You can get shackles and hardware stores/marine/auto stores a lot cheaper. They're likely exactly the same just resold by slackline sites. I doubt they're manufacturing their own shackles.
Ryan, thanks a lot for your videos, I learned SO MUCH and am starting to be able to think these setups through in order to properly understand why I need what and how I could exchange that with something else. Huge thanks for that!! But more importantly, I always get inspired to hop on the line again! Now I am thinkin about it, that makes your videos entertaining, educating and inspiring. Nice mixture.
I use towel tubes for padding, which are towels cut in half along the length and stitched to create tubes, it stops the slipping issue as the tree anchors are encased
You should try using a cinching knot or rig a rigging ring or a shackle in a choked configuration around the tree in order to maintain stability rather than just taking a wrap
Hi Ryan, I started slacklining about 7 months ago and was looking into buying a slackline for myself (I was using someone else's before) I was wondering if it is bad to leave a line up for long periods of time at tension, as long as it is not in lots of sun or rain is the constant tension bad for my line for prolonged periods, like weeks?
15:20 If we count units of tention... 1 starts at your pulling hand and goes to the yellow hangover and 1 goes back terminating at the anchor. Leaving 2 units on the tail leading to the black hangover and 2 heading back to the weblock. The 2 and 2 on each side of the black hangover leaves 4 units on the line grab. The 2 units on each side of the weblock leaves 4 more units on the anchor for a total of 5 at the anchor. Lastly the 2 units leave the web lock and meet up with the 4 units that are already on the line grab for a grand total of 6 units on the line grab and slackline. So a theoretical MA of 6:1 on the slackline and 5:1 on the anchor.
And if you are wondering how its only 5:1 on the anchor but 6:1 on the slackline? Where did that missing unit of tension go? The 1 unit of tension on your pulling hand goes through you, to your feet and onto the ground. But if you braced yourself on the tree/anchor then it would indeed balance out with 6 on the tree and 6 on the slackline.
It looked like you were having trouble pulling the line through the lock when you were pulling the first slack out. Does that not become a issue when you multiply the system?
It indicates the direction of the shortest distance to centerpoint of the earth in case the tree did not grow streight. by looking back at it sometimes when walking you get the right visual feedback for standing perfectly streight on the line. Right?
Great video... thank you for sharing your knowledge!! Just curious, if you are wanting to save on the expenditure front, could you use 100m worth of climbing rope as your back up on a Highline? Instead of having to buy two bits of webbing? Also on the tensioning side, instead of using a second Rollex carabiner pulley... would you be able to get away with using just a carabiner instead?
rope flipped over the webbing can cause damage and webbing and rope cost the same per meter. I suppose if you already have the rope it could work but it's heavy and to walk 100m with a heavy backup would suck. I tensioned my highline yesterday that was 100m with just one rollex and a snatch grip and one other friend pulling. No one needs to own two rollers.
About the static side... Using a rope as tree sling is something you shouldn't do because the pressure would be concentrated at one spot and this could damage the tree. Here is one source: www.swiss-slackline.ch/files/swiss-slackline/documents%20and%20publications/basics/treepro/Under_Pressure_Tree_Pro_ISA_EN_v1.pdf Here's another: www.jdav.de/chameleon/public/5d4e7277-1225-da5c-fecc-1f186ee19278/Joerg-Helfrich-Vortrag_Slackine-Norm-und-Baumschutz-ttl_2013_web_22429.pdf It's in German, but page 26 says "for trees of 100-200 diameter, minimal breadth 10cm" and "greater than 200cm -> at least 5 cm". There are other sources as well. You probably know about this but some of your viewers don't, so let's mention it. Having said that, let's say we want to go with the static rope anyway. I've decided to rig the static side as you suggest around the 3 minute mark in this video. Problems I've encountered: Problem 1 - Local outdoor shops do not have dyneema. Then I ordered dyneema online. Problem 2 - It took me some time to tie the soft shackle. Problem 3 - After slacklining, I wasn't able to untie the figure eight knots on the static rope afterwards. Rope is not reusable on trees of different diameters. The solution I propose to these problems: Don't use dyneema. Use a non-jamming bend, like the Carrick bend on a rope that goes through the sewn loop and around the tree. Here's a picture: ibb.co/tYrhQcN Right side is what I suggest, left side is what this video suggests. There's also the additional advantage that one carrick bend uses less rope than two figure eight loops. My question is, would it work on the long run? Or is there something special about dyneema that avoids damage on the webbing in a rope-on-rope situation like this? (As I understand, there is nothing special about dyneema. The sewn loop sits on it without any movement, that's why rope-on-rope is not bad in this case. I mean... All knots are rope-on-rope, but because there is no movement, it's okay.)
Why didn't you just make your figure 8 around the loop in the slack line without the need of using a shackle? (Around minute 3:00) Sorry if that sounds stupid, I'm not pro lol
I suppose you could, even in the sewn loop, at least for a slackline. A highline requires 2 things to be installed at a master point so if you did this you still need connectors. If u did run 8mm rope in a sewn loop go in the sewn loop 2x and around tree 2x naturally, the tie a figure 8 or fishermans or anything you want to attach both ends of rope together. Dont tie figure 8 to the loop... it could pinch loop too much.
not gonna lie i use soft shackles (sleeved) to hold my soft release on the sewn loop end or static side and since we only really use hand tension it only sees a little bit of movement until there's enough slack to pull the pin seems super good enough... but was wondering your thoughts on the odd bend that the soft shackle has through the soft release? i'm sure its numbers high enough not to matter but still worth thinkin about right?
I feel like I would get trolled if I tried it but I would in a heart beat! haha. I have the landcruising airbow and that is pretty dang light so I don't have a huge need to use a soft shackle on a soft release. If you don't have abrasion going through your protective sleeve, then you are super good enough.
i figured as much i just hadn't really seen people doing it that way and it was first instinct to i guess... we abuse the shit out of that setup in park and seems bomber even under more tension (longer lines) releasing seems fine also. and yes we all know how the internet can be i mean you're already takin one for the team so huge thanks to ya man! and as always appreciate the feedback.
Jack Smith yea... these videos specifically make people love me or hate me haha. But im really the only guy making videos regularly that doesnt sell gear so i feel like its my duty to tell people they dont need all that shiny dick measuring gear ;)
Line locks are ok... mostly on nylon, less ideal on polyester. If you sleeve it you will increase strength. Padded frost knots are also strong enough and dont require the ring. Dont highline on aluminum carabiners though... at least on the master point.
Old school trick not popular anymore. 1" smc pulley... remove rivet with drill bit... take side plates.... 4 roller skate wheels... ss bolt with washer on either end and 1 on each end inside plates so total of 4... locking nut. Tends to have sharp edges and you cant put it on without taking carabiner off and it requires a wide carabiner so no one uses it anymore. Not a great place to save money. Try to buy a hangover used if possible if crunched for $. :)
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After 4 years still helping me out a ton, thanks Ryan!
this guy just talked to me for hours straight. he's a better teacher than any i ever had in high school.
nice tree protection, I tend to use old jeans cut off the hip part and put the rope through the leg pieces, and they don't fall off :-)
big brain time!
Not all super heroes wear capes
Quickest way to go from a 3:1 to a 5:1. Unclip the pulley used for 3:1 and move it to the anchor. Leave the Prussik or line lock. Take the two lines that are coming off the original single pulley and pull back to where the single pulley was originally. Place a double pulley here and run the two lines through it
21:50 You have a 18:1 on the slackline and a 17:1 at the anchor. You made a 3:1 pulling on your 2:1 that was pulling on your final 3:1.
Only bad part is the efficiency of carabiners as pulleys are shit, like 45%. So putting them at the start of the system you loose almost all you MA right off the bat. It's probably only a little better than the 6:1. BUT if you move the more efficient hangovers closer in the system to where you are pulling and the biners further (i.e. switch the black hangover with the first biner and the yellow on with another biner), you will preserve energy early in the system. This will maximize the actual MA at the end of the system. The math just works out that way. The 18:1 will be quite a bit more powerful than how it is now.
^^^ This ^^^
That wasn't a 5:1. You made a 6:1 (compounding a 3:1 and a 2:1).
Great video :)
I stay in India where you don't get good slackline/ highline equipment. Every bloody thing has to be picked up from US/ Europe. Thanks for saving me a whole lot of money, effort and angst. If you guys plan a trip this side, do get in touch. Big fan of the series, best content.
mohit tanwar thanks. These videos are specifically targeted for people in your situation where every piece of gear you order has to count because access to it is so hard. I may make a 4th video sharing even more ways to save money. It would be amazing to get a full slack/highline kit for under $500 new.
Amazing series and quality content, keep Up The good work and thank you so much!
Thank you. Hopefully I can eliminate the linegrip with a soft release tension system. It's fun to see how cheap we can make a full setup.
This is an old video, but if anyone is watching it now, like me, here's a tip. You can get shackles and hardware stores/marine/auto stores a lot cheaper. They're likely exactly the same just resold by slackline sites. I doubt they're manufacturing their own shackles.
Ryan, thanks a lot for your videos, I learned SO MUCH and am starting to be able to think these setups through in order to properly understand why I need what and how I could exchange that with something else. Huge thanks for that!!
But more importantly, I always get inspired to hop on the line again! Now I am thinkin about it, that makes your videos entertaining, educating and inspiring. Nice mixture.
I use towel tubes for padding, which are towels cut in half along the length and stitched to create tubes, it stops the slipping issue as the tree anchors are encased
You should try using a cinching knot or rig a rigging ring or a shackle in a choked configuration around the tree in order to maintain stability rather than just taking a wrap
Hi Ryan, I started slacklining about 7 months ago and was looking into buying a slackline for myself (I was using someone else's before) I was wondering if it is bad to leave a line up for long periods of time at tension, as long as it is not in lots of sun or rain is the constant tension bad for my line for prolonged periods, like weeks?
15:20 If we count units of tention...
1 starts at your pulling hand and goes to the yellow hangover and 1 goes back terminating at the anchor.
Leaving 2 units on the tail leading to the black hangover and 2 heading back to the weblock.
The 2 and 2 on each side of the black hangover leaves 4 units on the line grab.
The 2 units on each side of the weblock leaves 4 more units on the anchor for a total of 5 at the anchor.
Lastly the 2 units leave the web lock and meet up with the 4 units that are already on the line grab for a grand total of 6 units on the line grab and slackline.
So a theoretical MA of 6:1 on the slackline and 5:1 on the anchor.
And if you are wondering how its only 5:1 on the anchor but 6:1 on the slackline? Where did that missing unit of tension go? The 1 unit of tension on your pulling hand goes through you, to your feet and onto the ground. But if you braced yourself on the tree/anchor then it would indeed balance out with 6 on the tree and 6 on the slackline.
It looked like you were having trouble pulling the line through the lock when you were pulling the first slack out. Does that not become a issue when you multiply the system?
How has nobody in the comments brought up the butt plug in the beginning of this video yet? Haha.
Only the ones really paying attention can appreciate the little details ;)
It's hanging in full display at the end of the video too
It indicates the direction of the shortest distance to centerpoint of the earth in case the tree did not grow streight. by looking back at it sometimes when walking you get the right visual feedback for standing perfectly streight on the line. Right?
Thing was fuckin huge lmao
Total destruction god damn. Been seeing that thing in your gear wall.
I love this! Just wondering, maybe Im also missing something - but did you not back up the anchor parts with the tail of the line or similar?
Great video... thank you for sharing your knowledge!! Just curious, if you are wanting to save on the expenditure front, could you use 100m worth of climbing rope as your back up on a Highline? Instead of having to buy two bits of webbing? Also on the tensioning side, instead of using a second Rollex carabiner pulley... would you be able to get away with using just a carabiner instead?
rope flipped over the webbing can cause damage and webbing and rope cost the same per meter. I suppose if you already have the rope it could work but it's heavy and to walk 100m with a heavy backup would suck. I tensioned my highline yesterday that was 100m with just one rollex and a snatch grip and one other friend pulling. No one needs to own two rollers.
What kind of hitch cord are you using? Isn't there a risk of it melting or it melting the webbing with all that friction?
Nice video
Solid's...... All the best !
About the static side... Using a rope as tree sling is something you shouldn't do because the pressure would be concentrated at one spot and this could damage the tree. Here is one source: www.swiss-slackline.ch/files/swiss-slackline/documents%20and%20publications/basics/treepro/Under_Pressure_Tree_Pro_ISA_EN_v1.pdf
Here's another: www.jdav.de/chameleon/public/5d4e7277-1225-da5c-fecc-1f186ee19278/Joerg-Helfrich-Vortrag_Slackine-Norm-und-Baumschutz-ttl_2013_web_22429.pdf
It's in German, but page 26 says "for trees of 100-200 diameter, minimal breadth 10cm" and "greater than 200cm -> at least 5 cm".
There are other sources as well.
You probably know about this but some of your viewers don't, so let's mention it.
Having said that, let's say we want to go with the static rope anyway.
I've decided to rig the static side as you suggest around the 3 minute mark in this video.
Problems I've encountered:
Problem 1 - Local outdoor shops do not have dyneema.
Then I ordered dyneema online.
Problem 2 - It took me some time to tie the soft shackle.
Problem 3 - After slacklining, I wasn't able to untie the figure eight knots on the static rope afterwards. Rope is not reusable on trees of different diameters.
The solution I propose to these problems:
Don't use dyneema. Use a non-jamming bend, like the Carrick bend on a rope that goes through the sewn loop and around the tree. Here's a picture:
ibb.co/tYrhQcN
Right side is what I suggest, left side is what this video suggests.
There's also the additional advantage that one carrick bend uses less rope than two figure eight loops.
My question is, would it work on the long run? Or is there something special about dyneema that avoids damage on the webbing in a rope-on-rope situation like this? (As I understand, there is nothing special about dyneema. The sewn loop sits on it without any movement, that's why rope-on-rope is not bad in this case. I mean... All knots are rope-on-rope, but because there is no movement, it's okay.)
Thank you for these videos!! If you ever come to Oahu Hawaii, hit me up!
Kye Kunz oh we will!
Where can I find the Dinomiter you used?
So helpful!! Thank you!!!
Yup! Newest tips are snatch grips instead of line grips. Also 50 meter pieces... not 100m. See inov spit episodes
im not a pro but i think at 16:00 it is a 6 to 1 because you multiply your 3 to 1 by 2
That sounds right! :)
Correct :)
Why didn't you just make your figure 8 around the loop in the slack line without the need of using a shackle? (Around minute 3:00) Sorry if that sounds stupid, I'm not pro lol
I suppose you could, even in the sewn loop, at least for a slackline. A highline requires 2 things to be installed at a master point so if you did this you still need connectors. If u did run 8mm rope in a sewn loop go in the sewn loop 2x and around tree 2x naturally, the tie a figure 8 or fishermans or anything you want to attach both ends of rope together. Dont tie figure 8 to the loop... it could pinch loop too much.
HowNOTtoHIGHLINE makes sense, thanks
Hey man, maybe you already covered this but where can I buy that Russian linegrip? That looks like the way to go
ian cameron link is in the description and also a link for the woodgrip which can be cheaper depending where u live
Duhhh... I knew it was a stupid question 😂 thanks for the sweet content! 👍
not gonna lie i use soft shackles (sleeved) to hold my soft release on the sewn loop end or static side and since we only really use hand tension it only sees a little bit of movement until there's enough slack to pull the pin seems super good enough... but was wondering your thoughts on the odd bend that the soft shackle has through the soft release? i'm sure its numbers high enough not to matter but still worth thinkin about right?
I feel like I would get trolled if I tried it but I would in a heart beat! haha. I have the landcruising airbow and that is pretty dang light so I don't have a huge need to use a soft shackle on a soft release. If you don't have abrasion going through your protective sleeve, then you are super good enough.
i figured as much i just hadn't really seen people doing it that way and it was first instinct to i guess... we abuse the shit out of that setup in park and seems bomber even under more tension (longer lines) releasing seems fine also. and yes we all know how the internet can be i mean you're already takin one for the team so huge thanks to ya man! and as always appreciate the feedback.
Jack Smith yea... these videos specifically make people love me or hate me haha. But im really the only guy making videos regularly that doesnt sell gear so i feel like its my duty to tell people they dont need all that shiny dick measuring gear ;)
Exactly, thee only one!! and heyy any publicity is good publicity right!? haha
Can you use a line lock from a steel ring and carabiner to connect webbing if it doesn’t have sewn loops?
Line locks are ok... mostly on nylon, less ideal on polyester. If you sleeve it you will increase strength. Padded frost knots are also strong enough and dont require the ring. Dont highline on aluminum carabiners though... at least on the master point.
9:45 You can make your own Hangover Clips? In which video you show this?
Old school trick not popular anymore. 1" smc pulley... remove rivet with drill bit... take side plates.... 4 roller skate wheels... ss bolt with washer on either end and 1 on each end inside plates so total of 4... locking nut. Tends to have sharp edges and you cant put it on without taking carabiner off and it requires a wide carabiner so no one uses it anymore. Not a great place to save money. Try to buy a hangover used if possible if crunched for $. :)
Thankuuuuuu