The british version looks more beautiful and I love its quiet operation. I have my wilcox and gibbs on its own, polished and well oiled up on display like that, no crank or base to take away attention from the machine, I think it is also eye catching from the back side as you see the 'G' shape of the machine! GREAT VID!!
Thank you for commenting! I'm sorry I didn't reply sooner but for some reason TH-cam is no longer informing me of all my comments. Most come through, but a few, like yours, aren't listed.
I have the motorized version. The motor is directly behind the wheel the moves the needle up and down. Is it possible to convert my unit to hand crank (UK version)? I would like to have the option to go back an forth as needed. Thanks
Once you get the m motor off and find a hand crank, the conversion is easy. The only tricky part is getting the machine and hand crank aligned so the belt stays in place. Here are some hand cranks on EBAY: www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=willcox+%26+gibbs+hand+crank&Brand=&_dcat=156327 Good luck and thanks for the comment!
Hi! Thanks for commenting! For needles that'll fit W&G sewing machines, just search Google for, "needles for Wilcox and Gibbs sewing machines" and you'll find many sources, such as the following: www.ebay.com/itm/183837443477?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=183837443477&targetid=1262749492702&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9031782&poi=&campaignid=15428034462&mkgroupid=133947154481&rlsatarget=pla-1262749492702&abcId=9300763&merchantid=113794823&gclid=CjwKCAjwuYWSBhByEiwAKd_n_vWzlu4Az_eFw5JcZUXnHhC6vljSc17F5sG1m1EyggVqtsz-T2KzqhoCFgQQAvD_BwE I've never bought from this person so. this isn't an endorsement. Good luck!
Hello, Wayne. I've bought Willcox&Gibbs chainstitch sewing machine. It mostly needs restoration on metal parts because it has something which looks like a corosion and scratches in some areas (especially on needle bar top, cloth plate and tension disc). Does W&G sewing machine metal has any plating (chrome, nickel)? I'm not sure is the plating gone or is it just rust. I wonder if it's possible to make the metal shiny like your W&G with at-home methods?
Dear M B, Thanks for commenting! I'm happy to help in any way I can. As far as I know, all the shiny cloth plates and decorative knobs on sewing machines made before then late 1920s were nickel plated. By the early 1930s chrome plated was used. Mechanical parts like needlebars were usually left as plain steel. When something happens to break through the platng, like a chip or scratch, the steel or cast iron underneath is exposed and quickly rusts. This rust starts at the scratch, then grows under the surrounding plating, lifting it from underneath and allowing the rust to spread. It sounds like this is what has happened to you machine. While it's possible to clean and polish just the rusted areas leaving the existing plating untouched as much as possible, most of the time I just polish down to the bare metal. It takes some time, but produces a more even finish. It's more prone to re-rusting, but occasional polishing can keep that in check Each case is different. If all you have are a few rust spots, the rust can be removed very easily by using a product called 'Evaporust,' which is available from some hardware stores and Amazon. It will leave pits where the rust is removed, but if they are small and few in number, they may look good enough. If you want a mirror finish, whether you decide to replate or not, you'll need to sand down through the rust, pits and old plating until you have smooth, clean metal. If the rust pits are very shallow, you may be able to start with 400 grit sand paper. If deep, 220 grit might be necessary to start with graduating through 320 to get to 400. Then on to 600. After that you'll need a product called 'Micromesh,' also available from Amazon. These are very fine sanding cloths ranging from 1500 to 12,000 mesh. By the time you work through them the finish will be as bright as a mirror. The biggest problem with this technique is that it takes a lot of time and effort, figure half an hour per square inch. If your cloth plate measures 3 x 4 inches, that's six hours of grinding away. Another problem is that it's common for cloth plates to be stamped with serial numbers, patent dates and company logos. If the pits are deep, sanding down far enough to remove them may result in removing this stamped information, which may affect the machine's value it you ever want to sell it. If you want to replate it, or pay someone to do it, it still needs to be polished as described because unlike painting, plating doesn't fill in surface defects. Please let me know what you decide to do, an d if you have any more questions feel free to ask. Good luck!
I did a little research and the only reference I could find about W&G 'lockstitch' sewing machines was the following article: silkmothsewing.blogspot.com/2017/09/an-american-industrial-classic-willcox.html Is this what your machine looks like? If so, then the article may be useful to you.
@@wayneschmidt490 Thank you very much for your advise. I only now noticed that I've made a factual mistake in my text. Sorry about that. My sewing machine is chainstitch. Not lockstitch 😄 with a British hand crank. I haven't decided yet what to do with my machine. The parts which shaped like acorns which sit on top of presser foot and needle bar are very rusty. Like dipped in rust. Also the cloth plate is extremely scratched. Don't know the reason behind it, probably someone tried to polish it with a harch force, but the scratches are deep and still has rust.
@@Kamane-bee That's great news about your machine being a W&G chain stitcher. They are one of the most desired machines to have, particularly as it has a British style hand crank. The acorn shaped decorative tops on the needlebar and pressor foot are called finials. The easiest way to polish them is to remove them from the machine, chuck them in an electric drill to spin them and use progressively fin er grades of sandpaper to polish them. The following video shows how to do it: th-cam.com/video/dGwpVqV7XJE/w-d-xo.html It doesn't show finial polishing specifically, but it"ll give you the idea. You're probably right about the scratches on the cloth plate. The only way to get them out is to start with either 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and grind until they are gone. On some really bad plates, IK've had to go all the way down to 80-grit. Forgive me if I'm repeating myself, but restoring an antique sewing Machine is a difficult, time consuming process. Please think long and hard about it before starting. If you do decide to go ahead with it, one trick I found to avoid being overwhelmed is to focus on on e part at a time. Don't think about restoring the entire machine. Rather imagine all you're going to do is polish just the cloth plate, or just one particular screw head. Once that task is done, put the machine away, take a break, then when you feel like it pick something else to focus on.
Here's a follow-on video to the one I just sent you about polishing a cloth plate that shows better what results can be achieved: th-cam.com/video/dGwpVqV7XJE/w-d-xo.html
I seem to remember paying $200 for it on EBAY. Prices vary widely, though. The bigger problem is that they seldom come up for sale. It took us almost 2 years for one to become available. But that too varies. You may look for a year for one to come up then all of a sudden have a dozen. are b being offered.
Ebay, Pinterest and Etsy all carry Wilcox & Gibbs machines and parts. These are common and popular machines so you should be able to find what you need. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Where can I get the hand crank for the New York made? will any work? it is hard to turn that tiny little wheel. I have the machine, just want the crank. thanks for any help .
What is the "New York made" you mentioned? Is it a sewing machine? I've never heard of it. For the most part, hand cranks are designed for specific machines, which means you'll probably need to get one made for that machine. Depending on what the hand crank looks like, sometimes Singer hand crank attachments, which are inexpensive and easy to find, can be adapted to fit other machines, but the modifications don't always look to good. As for where to find something like that, EBAY is your best bet. That's where we've gotten almost all of our machines and attachments. Thanks for writing and good luck finding your hand crank!
Dear Kandie, Thank you for commenting! EBAY is the best source for W&G hand crank bases, which is where we purchased both of ours. It may take some time because they don't come up for sale very often. Good luck
Hello! And thank you for commenting! I assume you are talking about our Jones Swan Neck Sewing machine. They were manufactured from 1874 to 1909 (or 1901 depending on which reference is used.) To hunt down a closer date, the following link is probably the best on-line reference: fiddlebase.jimdo.com/british-machines/jones-co/dating-jones/ I hope this helps!
Commenting here because you disabled comments on your force trainer 2 videos. I can't attest to the app itself but people are hackimg the headset to control different things with the simple eeg reader. So it does in fact read electrical signals from those nodes. My guess is by shorting them all out you have generated a flat line reading which has little to no variance which then shorts the game into seeing consistent values. I'd be interested in knowing if when you personally completed those training courses if they were completed as quickly as when you shorted them because I have a feeling it took you much longer.
Thanks for commenting! Sorry I had to disable commenting on many of my videos. I was getting trolled all the time. I ran through the training test several times both wearing the headset and with the headset shorted. It didn't seem to make any difference. Some sessions took a little longer, while some went by quickly in both cases. A couple of times I wore the headset but turned my back on the trainer and read a book. The training session completed itself and complimented me on successfully finishing the task. It just seems to run through a random set of prerecorded patterns to fool people into thinking their brain power in influencing it. I really wish it had worked. It would have been great mental exercise. But repeated testing by myself and others suggest otherwise.
@@wayneschmidt490 hey thanks for the response. I'll take you at your word about the app. But what do you think about Michael Reeves video where he controls a car with the device? I guess it's possible that the app creators got lazy, I just don't know. th-cam.com/video/mPbtR4vorgY/w-d-xo.html
Oh, that drives me crazy running a sewing machine with no cloth between the presser foot and the feed dogs. It where’s the feed dogs down. Please always put some cloth between the presser foot and the feed dogs.
As long as the machine isn't threaded, I don't see any problem with cranking it. Why is this wrong? I'm not challenging your comment. If there is a good reason not to do this I really want to know. Thank you!
Actually, after proof reading my reply, I did think of something. If a machine is cranked without cloth, the dog feed's teeth drag over the cloth plate. This could dull the ends of the teeth, reducing their grip on the cloth.
Here's a link to a page that gives dates based on machine serial numbers: ismacs.net/willcoxandgibbs/wg_dating.html Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Opps! I just noticed that the chart I sent didn't go high enough for your machine. In fact a couldn't find a chart like it that did. But looking at our two machines and a few others with high serial numbers like yours, I would guess that yours was made in the late 1920s. Here are some of the serial numbers and dates I found: 535xxx = 1902, 539xxx = 1903, 557xxx = 1907 and 565xxx = 1910. I hope this helps.
The british version looks more beautiful and I love its quiet operation. I have my wilcox and gibbs on its own, polished and well oiled up on display like that, no crank or base to take away attention from the machine, I think it is also eye catching from the back side as you see the 'G' shape of the machine! GREAT VID!!
Thank you!
Thanks Wayne. Very informative
Thank you for commenting! I'm sorry I didn't reply sooner but for some reason TH-cam is no longer informing me of all my comments. Most come through, but a few, like yours, aren't listed.
Want one of these!
Thanks for commenting! "Wanted one of..." what? A willcox and Gibbs or an American style base?
I have the motorized version. The motor is directly behind the wheel the moves the needle up and down. Is it possible to convert my unit to hand crank (UK version)? I would like to have the option to go back an forth as needed. Thanks
Once you get the m motor off and find a hand crank, the conversion is easy. The only tricky part is getting the machine and hand crank aligned so the belt stays in place. Here are some hand cranks on EBAY:
www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=willcox+%26+gibbs+hand+crank&Brand=&_dcat=156327
Good luck and thanks for the comment!
Thanks for this
You're very welcome, and thanks for commenting!
The British style is my personal favorite
Most people agree with you. They are much quieter and look better. Thanks for commenting!
I know right!
Hi! I was wondering if it is easy to find needles for these machines?
Hi! Thanks for commenting!
For needles that'll fit W&G sewing machines, just search Google for, "needles for Wilcox and Gibbs sewing machines" and you'll find many sources, such as the following:
www.ebay.com/itm/183837443477?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=183837443477&targetid=1262749492702&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9031782&poi=&campaignid=15428034462&mkgroupid=133947154481&rlsatarget=pla-1262749492702&abcId=9300763&merchantid=113794823&gclid=CjwKCAjwuYWSBhByEiwAKd_n_vWzlu4Az_eFw5JcZUXnHhC6vljSc17F5sG1m1EyggVqtsz-T2KzqhoCFgQQAvD_BwE
I've never bought from this person so. this isn't an endorsement. Good luck!
Hello, Wayne. I've bought Willcox&Gibbs chainstitch sewing machine. It mostly needs restoration on metal parts because it has something which looks like a corosion and scratches in some areas (especially on needle bar top, cloth plate and tension disc). Does W&G sewing machine metal has any plating (chrome, nickel)? I'm not sure is the plating gone or is it just rust. I wonder if it's possible to make the metal shiny like your W&G with at-home methods?
Dear M B, Thanks for commenting! I'm happy to help in any way I can.
As far as I know, all the shiny cloth plates and decorative knobs on sewing machines made before then late 1920s were nickel plated. By the early 1930s chrome plated was used. Mechanical parts like needlebars were usually left as plain steel. When something happens to break through the platng, like a chip or scratch, the steel or cast iron underneath is exposed and quickly rusts. This rust starts at the scratch, then grows under the surrounding plating, lifting it from underneath and allowing the rust to spread. It sounds like this is what has happened to you machine. While it's possible to clean and polish just the rusted areas leaving the existing plating untouched as much as possible, most of the time I just polish down to the bare metal. It takes some time, but produces a more even finish. It's more prone to re-rusting, but occasional polishing can keep that in check
Each case is different. If all you have are a few rust spots, the rust can be removed very easily by using a product called 'Evaporust,' which is available from some hardware stores and Amazon. It will leave pits where the rust is removed, but if they are small and few in number, they may look good enough. If you want a mirror finish, whether you decide to replate or not, you'll need to sand down through the rust, pits and old plating until you have smooth, clean metal. If the rust pits are very shallow, you may be able to start with 400 grit sand paper. If deep, 220 grit might be necessary to start with graduating through 320 to get to 400. Then on to 600. After that you'll need a product called 'Micromesh,' also available from Amazon. These are very fine sanding cloths ranging from 1500 to 12,000 mesh. By the time you work through them the finish will be as bright as a mirror.
The biggest problem with this technique is that it takes a lot of time and effort, figure half an hour per square inch. If your cloth plate measures 3 x 4 inches, that's six hours of grinding away. Another problem is that it's common for cloth plates to be stamped with serial numbers, patent dates and company logos. If the pits are deep, sanding down far enough to remove them may result in removing this stamped information, which may affect the machine's value it you ever want to sell it. If you want to replate it, or pay someone to do it, it still needs to be polished as described because unlike painting, plating doesn't fill in surface defects.
Please let me know what you decide to do, an d if you have any more questions feel free to ask. Good luck!
I did a little research and the only reference I could find about W&G 'lockstitch' sewing machines was the following article:
silkmothsewing.blogspot.com/2017/09/an-american-industrial-classic-willcox.html
Is this what your machine looks like? If so, then the article may be useful to you.
@@wayneschmidt490 Thank you very much for your advise. I only now noticed that I've made a factual mistake in my text. Sorry about that. My sewing machine is chainstitch. Not lockstitch 😄 with a British hand crank. I haven't decided yet what to do with my machine. The parts which shaped like acorns which sit on top of presser foot and needle bar are very rusty. Like dipped in rust. Also the cloth plate is extremely scratched. Don't know the reason behind it, probably someone tried to polish it with a harch force, but the scratches are deep and still has rust.
@@Kamane-bee That's great news about your machine being a W&G chain stitcher. They are one of the most desired machines to have, particularly as it has a British style hand crank.
The acorn shaped decorative tops on the needlebar and pressor foot are called finials. The easiest way to polish them is to remove them from the machine, chuck them in an electric drill to spin them and use progressively fin er grades of sandpaper to polish them. The following video shows how to do it:
th-cam.com/video/dGwpVqV7XJE/w-d-xo.html
It doesn't show finial polishing specifically, but it"ll give you the idea.
You're probably right about the scratches on the cloth plate. The only way to get them out is to start with either 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and grind until they are gone. On some really bad plates, IK've had to go all the way down to 80-grit.
Forgive me if I'm repeating myself, but restoring an antique sewing Machine is a difficult, time consuming process. Please think long and hard about it before starting. If you do decide to go ahead with it, one trick I found to avoid being overwhelmed is to focus on on e part at a time. Don't think about restoring the entire machine. Rather imagine all you're going to do is polish just the cloth plate, or just one particular screw head. Once that task is done, put the machine away, take a break, then when you feel like it pick something else to focus on.
Here's a follow-on video to the one I just sent you about polishing a cloth plate that shows better what results can be achieved:
th-cam.com/video/dGwpVqV7XJE/w-d-xo.html
How much would the British one cost ?
I seem to remember paying $200 for it on EBAY. Prices vary widely, though. The bigger problem is that they seldom come up for sale. It took us almost 2 years for one to become available. But that too varies. You may look for a year for one to come up then all of a sudden have a dozen. are b being offered.
@@wayneschmidt490 Thanks for the reply.
@@obi-wankenobi1297 You're welcome!
Howdy, where can I find parts for these Wilcox Gibbs?
Ebay, Pinterest and Etsy all carry Wilcox & Gibbs machines and parts. These are common and popular machines so you should be able to find what you need. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Here's a sewing machine parts store that carries some W&G parts:
www.sewingpartsonline.com/search.html?keywords=willcox%20and%20gibbs&index=1
@@wayneschmidt490 Thank you!
Where can I get the hand crank for the New York made? will any work? it is hard to turn that tiny little wheel. I have the machine, just want the crank. thanks for any help .
What is the "New York made" you mentioned? Is it a sewing machine? I've never heard of it. For the most part, hand cranks are designed for specific machines, which means you'll probably need to get one made for that machine. Depending on what the hand crank looks like, sometimes Singer hand crank attachments, which are inexpensive and easy to find, can be adapted to fit other machines, but the modifications don't always look to good. As for where to find something like that, EBAY is your best bet. That's where we've gotten almost all of our machines and attachments. Thanks for writing and good luck finding your hand crank!
Now the question is, where can I get a hand crank / base for my Wilcox and Gibbs? American style ca 1880s.
Dear Kandie, Thank you for commenting! EBAY is the best source for W&G hand crank bases, which is where we purchased both of ours. It may take some time because they don't come up for sale very often. Good luck
@@wayneschmidt490 Thank you! If you happen to see one, I am actively searching now, so let me know.
Me interesa una máquina cómo puedo contactarte y poder conseguirla disculpe
I don't sell machines. You can buy them most easily from EBAY, which is where I got most of mine. Thanks for writing!
Willcox and Gibbs sewing machine manuals PDF download on Etsy and Ebay if you need one!!
Thank you!
I have a sewing machine that looks older than any one you have in your collection.its sitting on claw feet.i wonder how old it really is
Hello! And thank you for commenting!
I assume you are talking about our Jones Swan Neck Sewing machine. They were manufactured from 1874 to 1909 (or 1901 depending on which reference is used.) To hunt down a closer date, the following link is probably the best on-line reference: fiddlebase.jimdo.com/british-machines/jones-co/dating-jones/
I hope this helps!
@@wayneschmidt490 i have a machine. Im sri lanka
Commenting here because you disabled comments on your force trainer 2 videos. I can't attest to the app itself but people are hackimg the headset to control different things with the simple eeg reader. So it does in fact read electrical signals from those nodes. My guess is by shorting them all out you have generated a flat line reading which has little to no variance which then shorts the game into seeing consistent values.
I'd be interested in knowing if when you personally completed those training courses if they were completed as quickly as when you shorted them because I have a feeling it took you much longer.
Thanks for commenting! Sorry I had to disable commenting on many of my videos. I was getting trolled all the time.
I ran through the training test several times both wearing the headset and with the headset shorted. It didn't seem to make any difference. Some sessions took a little longer, while some went by quickly in both cases. A couple of times I wore the headset but turned my back on the trainer and read a book. The training session completed itself and complimented me on successfully finishing the task.
It just seems to run through a random set of prerecorded patterns to fool people into thinking their brain power in influencing it. I really wish it had worked. It would have been great mental exercise. But repeated testing by myself and others suggest otherwise.
@@wayneschmidt490 hey thanks for the response. I'll take you at your word about the app. But what do you think about Michael Reeves video where he controls a car with the device? I guess it's possible that the app creators got lazy, I just don't know.
th-cam.com/video/mPbtR4vorgY/w-d-xo.html
Presser foot up when running with no fabric.
Oh, that drives me crazy running a sewing machine with no cloth between the presser foot and the feed dogs. It where’s the feed dogs down. Please always put some cloth between the presser foot and the feed dogs.
As long as the machine isn't threaded, I don't see any problem with cranking it. Why is this wrong? I'm not challenging your comment. If there is a good reason not to do this I really want to know. Thank you!
Actually, after proof reading my reply, I did think of something. If a machine is cranked without cloth, the dog feed's teeth drag over the cloth plate. This could dull the ends of the teeth, reducing their grip on the cloth.
Hi how do i date a similar British style with serial numbers A
680855
Here's a link to a page that gives dates based on machine serial numbers:
ismacs.net/willcoxandgibbs/wg_dating.html
Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Opps! I just noticed that the chart I sent didn't go high enough for your machine. In fact a couldn't find a chart like it that did. But looking at our two machines and a few others with high serial numbers like yours, I would guess that yours was made in the late 1920s. Here are some of the serial numbers and dates I found: 535xxx = 1902, 539xxx = 1903, 557xxx = 1907 and 565xxx = 1910. I hope this helps.
I have a machine. A 330447
For sale
0705612694 My imo number
Buenas noches
First
British win
I have to agree with you. It's smoother and much quieter. Thanks for commenting!