Thanks a lot for the great advice on fixing my dad's old 2004 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab. It only has 38K miles on it! My dad would be so happy. He passed away last December at 85.
Honestly he was right to the point, edited out unnecessary parts. I like this guy better. Scotty just keeps going on and on about different topics. And is lowkey annoying
Sr, thank you very much, I was going to replace the entire rack and pinion, but first I am doing this. I think we all appreciate your video and your help.
Sometimes those tie rod ends can be really tight in the taper...You don't actually need to take it off to change the boot, You can count the number of threads from the back of the locknut along the shaft and mark the rod end, nut and shaft and then loosen the nut and wind the rod out of the tie rod end.. Assembly is the reverse..
Many thanks! I followed your vid step by step … even how to break the larger retainer band holding the old boot, and it went like clockwork!! “What one man can do, another man (or woman) can do.” Anthony Hopkins “The Edge”
Great video. Somebody told me I'd have to replace rack and pinion but all I needed was a new tie/clamp for the boot to stop leaking power steering fluid. Thanks
Had the same issue come up doing my state safety inspection. Trying to charge me 60 dollars for a need boot and $600 in labor. Crazy wall they said I only need a metal clamp.
Nice video. When I take off the tie rod I draw a straight line from the inner tie rod, jam nut and the outer tie rod. If the inner tie rod twist a little bit, the alignment can differ. I count the turns of the tie rod and also of the jam nut. In the mean time I keep an eye on the line I drew on the inner tie rod and keep the inner tie rod at the same position. At reinstalling the jam nut and the outer tie rod I count the turns I wrote down and still keeps the inner tie rod in the same position. Alignment was the same before and after.
A couple of tips: - Use an hair drier or heat gun to warm up the big end of the plastic/rubber of the boot. It will make your life way easier putting it in place! IF using a heat gun be really sure you don't overdue or the boot will be damaged. Remember you want to warm it up to make it more flexible, not melt it into oblivion! LOL 😂 - Lube the big end before fitting, silicone spray is ideal. - Make sure to align the steering, after any intervention where steering parts are concerned. Counting the threads it's OK, to put you close. But should not be the final step! Either case given that it's in that condition, it's most probable the last alignment is already years away! ;-) - Whenever you have your vehicle in a lift, for an oil change, regular inspection, etc. Get a flashlight, phone light, whatever. And, take a good look under your car. Taking note of the condition and possible needed interventions. Things like this when detected early are cheap and easy to correct. ;-) Now this is not a tip. Just a random rant. I hate this ridiculous system of Toyota and many other Japanese automakers, with castellated nuts and pins!! Geez! We're in the XXI century! Come on, move on!
The boot kits come with their own grease from the manufacturer, but I'm supposed to defer to some guy in the TH-cam comment section who says to use silicone spray instead. This video isn't for people who somehow know better that the engineers who made the part, you got lost and came here.
Who did you get to change the boots ?? I've asked a auto shop, they do not want to do just the booths , said it's not worth changing. They want to replace entire R& P. Not sure if its BAD but the boots are torn , maybe needs to be RE- greased.
@@billwayne3924 I would just do it myself, it doesn’t seem hard honestly. But I know mine is leaking and it’s not because of the boot. So if your R&P is leaking, the boot won’t fix it lol that’s where I got confused
@@lupe8519 Hello. Not seeing any leakage on mines, boots are just torn... I guess. Googled how long a R&P usually last: 100K miles. Do see power steering hoses leaking from container clamp area. I don't know what's the deal with them not wanting to change the boot if torn. Thank for responding.
only one thing you did that I see people do all the time and it drives me insane. At 3:27 when you place your wrench and crescent the open end was on the nut back wards. Most people don't know they are made to be turned in one direction. The short side should always be turned in they direction you push., The adjustable was on right this time but they are the worse wrenches to do it with. they are always more prone to slip. I realize I am being a little harsh since it was big nuts and bolts but if you pick up good habits then you don't have to worry.
Yep! 100% ON. Most people are totally clueless about how to properly use tools. Curiously, while at it, tend to create huge problems to themselves. And, damaging tools and equipment along the way...
Thanks for making this video although there's a few things I would definitely suggest was never turn a nut or bolt until you spray it with PB blaster the only end up stripping the nut and making your job longer. 2 never ever use a zip tie to secure down a boot it's a cheap "ghetto way" of doing stuff and will only cost you more in the long run!
In one of our cars (2003 Chevy Cavalier) there is a small metal pipe which connects rack and pinion below boots. It is called breather line. That line is often gets disconnected during alignment (fortunately only fm/passenger side). I always check if it is connected or not. How important is that line? What happens if you remove that line completely and close those pegs on the boots (so dust doesn't go inside). Is it very important to keep that line? I drove that car for a while w/one end disconnected with no difference. Thank you for the informative film.
It keeps pressure inside the boot equalized when turning . If disconnected dirt and moisture could get inside the boot. If you plug it, the pressure could theoretically get so high in the boot that it ruptures itself. Not saying that it will, just that is the intent behind it.
@@trapperjohn3400 Thank you very much for the explanation. Another our car (2001 Saturn SL2) doesn't have that breather line, so it is way easier to replace boots there. A question here of course, how the pressure in those boots doesn't go very high? Saturns of those years are very good cars. Trying to attach the line on the passenger car I pulled and the other end came out (I mean on the Driver side). I could install it back only after removing that boot, then putting the boot back, clamping it on the Rack and then attaching another (Passenger) side very accurately. Working on 2003 Chevy Driver side boot is very hard since no room, unless you are willing to drop a bit a subframe there. I made a sketch of that breather line for the case it is lost (I've read you can make it fm the brake line 1/4" or smth). While you work on it you just leave that boots open. Thank you again.
@@olenaerhardt7725 The pressure inside will vary based on the positioning when you install it. If installed fully extended, when collapsed it could be pretty high. If installed fully collapsed, you would actually have a vacuum when it extends which could deform it. I have no idea how much of a problem this really is as many don't use breather tubes.
@@trapperjohn3400 Thank you, I never thought that the seal on the boots is such that vacuum can be created. I did only 4 boots so far (2 Saturn, 2 Chevy). I remember only the last Chevy Driver side (actually it was #5, since I replaced the torn (I think during alignment) Boot). I installed it in straight ahead position, but it is good to know about such dramatic variations of pressure in the boots. About that breather line my impression is that many mechanics have very vague idea on the subject (I came to that conclusion after a few alignments).
@@olenaerhardt7725 That vacuum could suck water and dirt into the boot contaminating the inner tie rod ends. It is worthwhile. Honestly I never thought about it until I started working on this task.
Very right to the point. Almost every one starts with the removal of the wheel/tire, if you don't know you have to remove the wheel or don't know how to securely support the vehicle you shouldn't start doing any of these DYS repairs.
I just installed a new rack but forgot to center it before installing. If i take off the inner tierod boots and measure each side would that center the rack? Both sides would have to be the same measure correct?
Thanks. Wish I had watched this video before running to do it myself. Now I don't know how many turns it took to take off tie rod nor the lining with the nut on the rack arm 😓. Greatest thing is... I know what to do next time. Thanks again.
I would not reuse any of the small stuff , but replace with new , clamps , pins , etc . And not to use a zip tie but the original and new metal clamp . Periodically spray the boots as well as other rubber components and parts underneath with 303 Protectant . I would think the use of a torque wrench would be necessary for tightening anything ?
Should you grease the steering shaft, too? I greased the joint, but i noticed you didnt grease the shaft that goes into the rack like some do. I can't seem to find any info on this anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dude!! Your cool ass fuk no lie💯 I was breaking my head over the grease part where to place it at my “mechanic” friends said I had to stuff the boot full w grease😂
Thanks a lot pal! I just changed the oil on my daughters 06 solara yesterday and noticed the passenger side boot was cracked and leaking 🤦🏻♂️😬...gonna try and repair this today thanks to your video. I'd assume it should be pretty similar to your 07 Camry 🤷🏻♂️🤞🏽
How did it go? I need to replace the boots on my 05 solara and a bit nervous as I just changed the struts myself and that was a bit challenging just due to rusty parts.
Also if you pull the outer tie rod off and the boot looks like it did in the above video, go ahead and replace it, in fact if you're going through the trouble of taking this apart, more than likely all these components are worn out, save yourself time and replace them all at the same time...
Sir, may I ask one more question? Prior to replacing my outer passenger steering boot on my '99 CRV , I've received a Beck-Arnley boot from Amazon. I've verified the part number as correct, but the outermost hole diameter appears much too small for the shaft, the side closest to the ball joint. I haven't even addressed the inner side that stretches over the rack end...I want to make sure they didn't mix parts on me. When you installed the boot as pictured in your video, did the outer (small) end diameter of the boot appear smaller than the shaft it fits over? Did you need to stretch that side of the boot too? Blessings to you in helping us DIY'ers.
@@mwngw You can buy the OEM exact boot for that CRV for $11 from an online Honda dealer. No idea if a local dealer would be price competitive. I don't mind Beck-Arnley parts, I buy them too but $11 for OEM was too good to pass up. I bought both boots and all the OEM clips (inner and outer). No fun adapting parts that might fit from aftermarket suppliers.
Lot mechanic want to replace the whole rack and pinion for a leaky boot say $700 i told my mom hell no im no mechanic but replacing the whole $400part for a $20 replaceable boot is insane
@@proclaimliberty2000 - I can assure you, if you took it to a good alignment machine. Surprise would settle in. ;-) ANY steering intervention, particularly after years of absence. Should be followed by an alignment check/correction! It's that simple.
Thanks for the vid, I checked my steering rack boots yesterday and both are full of power steering oil, so I wonder if I have to replace only the tie roads or the whole steering rack and pinion?
The rack and pinion seals are leaking and often not serviceable and require the replacement of the entire rack and pinion assembly. However, you do have another alternative to an expensive replacement. You can simply and quickly restore the seals in your rack and pinion by adding BlueDevil Power Steering Stop Leak to your power steering reservoir. This should permanently seal your rack and pinion leak within a few days of driving. BlueDevil Power Steering Stop Leak will not harm or clog your rack and pinion and is safe to remain in your system until your next scheduled power steering flush.
Please help I have 2006 toyota camry with a ripped boot is it safe too drive how many mile will it last ? Doesn't leak anything plus I put some greasse in there too help
In short. Replace it ASAP. Although It's not a safety issue for now. It will allow irreparable damages to settle over time. Compare the cost of replacing a really cheap boot, or repairing/replacing a not so cheap steering rack. The labor cost alone, will make you run and replace it tomorrow! LOL 😂 With this said you won't crash and burn on the next few weeks, because of it! LOL 😂 BTW The added grease was a really bad choice! Grease attract and collect dust and debris. Combined they make for and excellent "grinding paste". Not good.
@@crpth1 my car has 215k miles on it ain't much more damage/ wear an tear I can do too the car , whats the worse that could happen??? Car runs fine no issues
@@crpth1 i know a guy with a grand pri with 240k miles the rack was super bad pour almost all fluid out instantly after he refill it he drove it like this for 2 years An still drive it like this...he just adds fluid when steering is stiff or making noise when turning
Undo that end from the rack then put some grease inside then screw it back on.. there is a hole on the inside that will press new grease into the inner tie rod..since you need alignment do anything & everything to prevent further alignment cost..really I would replace the whole tie rod by the looks of that boot they are cheap ..don't matter about cost just so long there is a fitting..cheap tie rod with a fitting will last 5 times longer than a sealed tie rod end just lube 2 twice a year ..fun fun fun
my Toyota dealership told me my boot was twisted and the whole rack and pinion would eventually need to be replaced? I can't find any terminology about a twisted boot though so am I confused...is there no way of "untwisting" it?
If the boot is twisted then the clamp on the larger end of the boot can always be removed to untwist the boot. If you cannot get the original clamp back on you can always use a zip tie. Also if your rack and pinion is leaking you could always try adding some kind of stop leak to the power steering fluid before paying an arm and a leg to have the system replaced.
@@proclaimliberty2000 Hello have 2000 Lexus LS430 my rack in boot is leaking. and the boot have a huge hole. Can I only replaced the boot or the rack need replaced?
How is the air going to be vent out during compression and extension. The rubber boot is going to collapse during full extend and then it will be broken.
How long can I drive with a ripped boot I have the same car it doesn't leak anything but boot has a big ripped I repack it with a lil grease too help it what do you think
It depends on how big the rip is and how much road debris it’s letting in. The purpose of the boot is to keep dirt out and keep everything on the inside clean which helps keep the seal from wearing prematurely.
@@proclaimliberty2000 so in reality as long as dirt /rocks doesn't get in there an it has some grease that it will be fine ? Plus it's not leaking same car in the video I paid 1600 put 400$into work into it already an only had it for 2 months I won't be able too afford anything else for a while
@@proclaimliberty2000 there no grit an sand or anything in there really seems clean an always had lil grease inside...my steering is not stiff at all I drive with 2 fingers sometimes like a caddy
Thanks a lot for the great advice on fixing my dad's old 2004 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab. It only has 38K miles on it!
My dad would be so happy. He passed away last December at 85.
Thanks for sharing. The shop quoted me $1600 for ball joints and one boot replacement. Now I feel like I can same me some big money
Very informative and without the useless talk, just what is helpful, thank you!!!
👍😊
The ball joint taper never comes out that easy 😂😂😂
he skipps that like everyone and just showing easilly pop out
Yes... it's been previously massaged before video most likely. That's ok - folks not sure how to wield a hammer should not attempt this job.
Sounds like scottys brother
😂
Just needs a Celica and you got your self a cloned Scotty
Honestly he was right to the point, edited out unnecessary parts. I like this guy better. Scotty just keeps going on and on about different topics. And is lowkey annoying
Rev up your engines 😂
But much less annoying 🤣
Sr, thank you very much, I was going to replace the entire rack and pinion, but first I am doing this. I think we all appreciate your video and your help.
Yeah. I went out and looked at my car and sure as crap it's just the boot that's bad. LOL!!!
If the boot is really bad torn out, is there a way to clean before putting grease?
Sometimes those tie rod ends can be really tight in the taper...You don't actually need to take it off to change the boot, You can count the number of threads from the back of the locknut along the shaft and mark the rod end, nut and shaft and then loosen the nut and wind the rod out of the tie rod end.. Assembly is the reverse..
You can count all you like the toe and alignment will still need to be done or plan on new tires
@monktontrimble763great a sweet ya got huh
So your saying to leave the ball joint in and to just crack the 17mm nut loose and spin the inner tie rod shaft out of the outer tie rod end?
@@johalmag3304 Works for me, Jack the wheel off the ground of course. The inner end of the tie rod is just a ball and socket.
@@themaximusone Pays to get it done anyway Toe-in at least.
Scotty’s voice’s older more reserved twin voice. Excellent video!
Ha ha, I thought he sounded like a more chilled Scotty too.
Very concise, easy and practical. Great video.
Thank you so much for the informative video. God bless you and your family
Many thanks! I followed your vid step by step … even how to break the larger retainer band holding the old boot, and it went like clockwork!! “What one man can do, another man (or woman) can do.” Anthony Hopkins “The Edge”
Great video. Somebody told me I'd have to replace rack and pinion but all I needed was a new tie/clamp for the boot to stop leaking power steering fluid. Thanks
It sounds like the seals on your rack and pinion are leaking. Try using Blue Devil power steering stop leak.
Had the same issue come up doing my state safety inspection. Trying to charge me 60 dollars for a need boot and $600 in labor. Crazy wall they said I only need a metal clamp.
OMG this was EXCELLENT! I wish everyone else's video's were like this.
Thanks so much. I really appreciate the important attention to detail.
Nice video. When I take off the tie rod I draw a straight line from the inner tie rod, jam nut and the outer tie rod. If the inner tie rod twist a little bit, the alignment can differ. I count the turns of the tie rod and also of the jam nut. In the mean time I keep an eye on the line I drew on the inner tie rod and keep the inner tie rod at the same position. At reinstalling the jam nut and the outer tie rod I count the turns I wrote down and still keeps the inner tie rod in the same position. Alignment was the same before and after.
Excellent explanation and professional!! Make it look easy! Thank you very much!
cvd2012 👍😊
Great job! Easy to follow and to the point.Thank you!
You are amazing problem-solver , we love your intelligence, Brother!
Good stuff !!! That job looks easy' thanks to your very impressive, and well executed way of narrating what your doing !!! Good job !!! 👍
👍😊
A couple of tips:
- Use an hair drier or heat gun to warm up the big end of the plastic/rubber of the boot. It will make your life way easier putting it in place! IF using a heat gun be really sure you don't overdue or the boot will be damaged. Remember you want to warm it up to make it more flexible, not melt it into oblivion! LOL 😂
- Lube the big end before fitting, silicone spray is ideal.
- Make sure to align the steering, after any intervention where steering parts are concerned. Counting the threads it's OK, to put you close. But should not be the final step! Either case given that it's in that condition, it's most probable the last alignment is already years away! ;-)
- Whenever you have your vehicle in a lift, for an oil change, regular inspection, etc. Get a flashlight, phone light, whatever. And, take a good look under your car. Taking note of the condition and possible needed interventions. Things like this when detected early are cheap and easy to correct. ;-)
Now this is not a tip. Just a random rant. I hate this ridiculous system of Toyota and many other Japanese automakers, with castellated nuts and pins!! Geez! We're in the XXI century! Come on, move on!
The boot kits come with their own grease from the manufacturer, but I'm supposed to defer to some guy in the TH-cam comment section who says to use silicone spray instead. This video isn't for people who somehow know better that the engineers who made the part, you got lost and came here.
@@dare2scheme904 What a stupid rant from a m word ignorant. Lol🙄
@@dare2scheme904 lighten up Francis
@@douglaslamb7267hey good quote from the movie Stripes
Great video, was it difficult to get the inner boot over the rack pinion, we’re you able to get it on just with your hands , thanks
Very informative and well put together video. Cheers mate
I was planning to change the entire rack and pinion. Didn’t realize you can just switch the boot. Thanks!!
Who did you get to change the boots ?? I've asked a auto shop, they do not want to do just the booths , said it's not worth changing. They want to replace entire R& P. Not sure if its BAD but the boots are torn , maybe needs to be RE- greased.
@@billwayne3924 I would just do it myself, it doesn’t seem hard honestly. But I know mine is leaking and it’s not because of the boot. So if your R&P is leaking, the boot won’t fix it lol that’s where I got confused
@@lupe8519 Hello. Not seeing any leakage on mines, boots are just torn... I guess. Googled how long a R&P usually last: 100K miles. Do see power steering hoses leaking from container clamp area. I don't know what's the deal with them not wanting to change the boot if torn. Thank for responding.
only one thing you did that I see people do all the time and it drives me insane. At 3:27 when you place your wrench and crescent the open end was on the nut back wards. Most people don't know they are made to be turned in one direction. The short side should always be turned in they direction you push., The adjustable was on right this time but they are the worse wrenches to do it with. they are always more prone to slip. I realize I am being a little harsh since it was big nuts and bolts but if you pick up good habits then you don't have to worry.
Yep! 100% ON. Most people are totally clueless about how to properly use tools. Curiously, while at it, tend to create huge problems to themselves. And, damaging tools and equipment along the way...
They don't call them "nutfuckers" in the industry for nothing...Also hard on knuckles..
I'm just about to do mine thanks for the easy watch easy instructions.thank you kind sir.
A J 👍😊
Yes
Thanks!very informative..now i know how to replace my steering rack boot by myself👍👍👍
Marlon Vinoya 👍😊
Perfect! I’ll be trying this for the first tome, thank you sir!
Dwayne Delacruz 👍😊
How’d it go?
thank you. does the steering wheel feel more Smooth after the new grease?
What kind if grease brand do you usually apply to that part ??? Thank you
God Bless you too my brother from Perth Australia.
👍😊 Hello down there in Australia
Awesome and well explained video to the point kudos!
Great video and explanation. Awesome!
Thanks for making this video although there's a few things I would definitely suggest was never turn a nut or bolt until you spray it with PB blaster the only end up stripping the nut and making your job longer.
2 never ever use a zip tie to secure down a boot it's a cheap "ghetto way" of doing stuff and will only cost you more in the long run!
Very useful. Thanks buddy, I hope I can replace mine as easily.
In one of our cars (2003 Chevy Cavalier) there is a small metal pipe which connects rack and pinion below boots. It is called breather line. That line is often gets disconnected during alignment (fortunately only fm/passenger side). I always check if it is connected or not. How important is that line? What happens if you remove that line completely and close those pegs on the boots (so dust doesn't go inside). Is it very important to keep that line? I drove that car for a while w/one end disconnected with no difference. Thank you for the informative film.
It keeps pressure inside the boot equalized when turning . If disconnected dirt and moisture could get inside the boot. If you plug it, the pressure could theoretically get so high in the boot that it ruptures itself. Not saying that it will, just that is the intent behind it.
@@trapperjohn3400 Thank you very much for the explanation. Another our car (2001 Saturn SL2) doesn't have that breather line, so it is way easier to replace boots there. A question here of course, how the pressure in those boots doesn't go very high? Saturns of those years are very good cars. Trying to attach the line on the passenger car I pulled and the other end came out (I mean on the Driver side). I could install it back only after removing that boot, then putting the boot back, clamping it on the Rack and then attaching another (Passenger) side very accurately. Working on 2003 Chevy Driver side boot is very hard since no room, unless you are willing to drop a bit a subframe there. I made a sketch of that breather line for the case it is lost (I've read you can make it fm the brake line 1/4" or smth). While you work on it you just leave that boots open. Thank you again.
@@olenaerhardt7725 The pressure inside will vary based on the positioning when you install it. If installed fully extended, when collapsed it could be pretty high. If installed fully collapsed, you would actually have a vacuum when it extends which could deform it. I have no idea how much of a problem this really is as many don't use breather tubes.
@@trapperjohn3400 Thank you, I never thought that the seal on the boots is such that vacuum can be created. I did only 4 boots so far (2 Saturn, 2 Chevy). I remember only the last Chevy Driver side (actually it was #5, since I replaced the torn (I think during alignment) Boot). I installed it in straight ahead position, but it is good to know about such dramatic variations of pressure in the boots. About that breather line my impression is that many mechanics have very vague idea on the subject (I came to that conclusion after a few alignments).
@@olenaerhardt7725 That vacuum could suck water and dirt into the boot contaminating the inner tie rod ends. It is worthwhile. Honestly I never thought about it until I started working on this task.
Thank you Sir. This was very informative.
Very right to the point. Almost every one starts with the removal of the wheel/tire, if you don't know you have to remove the wheel or don't know how to securely support the vehicle you shouldn't start doing any of these DYS repairs.
I just installed a new rack but forgot to center it before installing. If i take off the inner tierod boots and measure each side would that center the rack? Both sides would have to be the same measure correct?
Thanks. Wish I had watched this video before running to do it myself. Now I don't know how many turns it took to take off tie rod nor the lining with the nut on the rack arm 😓. Greatest thing is... I know what to do next time. Thanks again.
Really helpful thanks my MR2 needs new ones
I would not reuse any of the small stuff , but replace with new , clamps , pins , etc . And not to use a zip tie but the original and new metal clamp . Periodically spray the boots as well as other rubber components and parts underneath with 303 Protectant . I would think the use of a torque wrench would be necessary for tightening anything ?
OEM parts for this job from an online Honda dealer are not expensive.
Thanks for the tip. Very useful
Should you grease the steering shaft, too? I greased the joint, but i noticed you didnt grease the shaft that goes into the rack like some do. I can't seem to find any info on this anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dude!! Your cool ass fuk no lie💯 I was breaking my head over the grease part where to place it at my “mechanic” friends said I had to stuff the boot full w grease😂
Only a drive axle boot you need to stuff lol
Looks great, it seems you've done this a lot.
Thanks a lot pal! I just changed the oil on my daughters 06 solara yesterday and noticed the passenger side boot was cracked and leaking 🤦🏻♂️😬...gonna try and repair this today thanks to your video. I'd assume it should be pretty similar to your 07 Camry 🤷🏻♂️🤞🏽
👍😊
How did it go? I need to replace the boots on my 05 solara and a bit nervous as I just changed the struts myself and that was a bit challenging just due to rusty parts.
Should I turn the steering wheel while we placing the boot or keep it straight?
Good thanks for this video helpful
I was scared, but after watching this video, I'm pumped and ready to get going, thanks a lot
D Harrell 👍😊
Also if you pull the outer tie rod off and the boot looks like it did in the above video, go ahead and replace it, in fact if you're going through the trouble of taking this apart, more than likely all these components are worn out, save yourself time and replace them all at the same time...
Great vid.
Makes it seems simple enough.
Im still gonna screw it up though.
excellent editing. no unnecessary chit chats like others
👍😊
Thank you, God bless you 🌟
👍😊
Fine instruction. What editing software did you use?
Do you need to an alignment after this?
Wow. You made this look easy. I'm going to try it. Thank you!
👍😊
Going to do this on my 2003 toyota tundra in a week or so, thanks
Subscribed. I wish i could make vedios like yours. Easy simple steps for the job.
👍😊 Thanks!
I liked it sir ..u did a great job
Thanks for the nice guide. Take care.
👍😊
Sir, may I ask one more question? Prior to replacing my outer passenger steering boot on my '99 CRV , I've received a Beck-Arnley boot from Amazon. I've verified the part number as correct, but the outermost hole diameter appears much too small for the shaft, the side closest to the ball joint. I haven't even addressed the inner side that stretches over the rack end...I want to make sure they didn't mix parts on me. When you installed the boot as pictured in your video, did the outer (small) end diameter of the boot appear smaller than the shaft it fits over? Did you need to stretch that side of the boot too? Blessings to you in helping us DIY'ers.
I did not have to stretch the hole on the small end of the boot. It was the same diameter as the shaft.
@@proclaimliberty2000 ...thank you much. Mine is way too small, by just looking at it or by caliper.
@@mwngw 👍😊
@@mwngw You can buy the OEM exact boot for that CRV for $11 from an online Honda dealer. No idea if a local dealer would be price competitive. I don't mind Beck-Arnley parts, I buy them too but $11 for OEM was too good to pass up. I bought both boots and all the OEM clips (inner and outer). No fun adapting parts that might fit from aftermarket suppliers.
This vid helped me with my citreon picasso here in England ....many thanks
Gary Harding 👍😊
What kind of grease did you use?
Lot mechanic want to replace the whole rack and pinion for a leaky boot say $700 i told my mom hell no im no mechanic but replacing the whole $400part for a $20 replaceable boot is insane
I totally agree this should work right
dude....you are the best......you didnt make it too easy very good video man....
👍😊
Thanks for the info. Needed that badly.
Dennis Fox 👍😊
THANX again.....
Hi there, do we have to replace the whole steering rack assemble if there is a leak? or not necessary, Just a question. Thank you for advice.
Mikko Carlos First pour in some blue devil power steeping stop leak and see if that stops the leak.
@@proclaimliberty2000 I did that to my ‘87 corvette and the leak got even worse! Any help?
Easy to understand. Great video 👌
Did both thanks.
Is this for electric ps?
You got good a channel brother.
Hi, what specifically is the red grease? Thanks in advance.
Synthetic
When the old boot was ripped, were you losing power steering fluid?
Very good video!!!
Thank you for your video
I tried this today. I’m having an extreme amount of difficulty backing up the nut on the tie rod. Any advice?
PB Blaster
So, spending the time you have with (removing) the 20 turns and marking the nut, when you were done. Did you need a wheel alignment?
No, the steering wheel tracked beautiful going down the highway.
@@proclaimliberty2000 - I can assure you, if you took it to a good alignment machine. Surprise would settle in. ;-)
ANY steering intervention, particularly after years of absence. Should be followed by an alignment check/correction! It's that simple.
Thanks for the vid, I checked my steering rack boots yesterday and both are full of power steering oil, so I wonder if I have to replace only the tie roads or the whole steering rack and pinion?
The rack and pinion seals are leaking and often not serviceable and require the replacement of the entire rack and pinion assembly. However, you do have another alternative to an expensive replacement. You can simply and quickly restore the seals in your rack and pinion by adding BlueDevil Power Steering Stop Leak to your power steering reservoir. This should permanently seal your rack and pinion leak within a few days of driving. BlueDevil Power Steering Stop Leak will not harm or clog your rack and pinion and is safe to remain in your system until your next scheduled power steering flush.
You can try a miracle in a can but save up your money in case it doesn't work. In my experience all miracles in a can are temporary measures.
Thanx
Actually helped alot ty
Is it too different for a silverado 99?
Best video ever
Please help I have 2006 toyota camry with a ripped boot is it safe too drive how many mile will it last ? Doesn't leak anything plus I put some greasse in there too help
In short. Replace it ASAP.
Although It's not a safety issue for now. It will allow irreparable damages to settle over time. Compare the cost of replacing a really cheap boot, or repairing/replacing a not so cheap steering rack. The labor cost alone, will make you run and replace it tomorrow! LOL 😂
With this said you won't crash and burn on the next few weeks, because of it! LOL 😂
BTW The added grease was a really bad choice! Grease attract and collect dust and debris. Combined they make for and excellent "grinding paste". Not good.
@@crpth1 it will be fine there no grit in there at all I check every cpl mouth stay clean so I don't worry about the boot right now
@@crpth1 my car has 215k miles on it ain't much more damage/ wear an tear I can do too the car , whats the worse that could happen??? Car runs fine no issues
@@crpth1 i know a guy with a grand pri with 240k miles the rack was super bad pour almost all fluid out instantly after he refill it he drove it like this for 2 years An still drive it like this...he just adds fluid when steering is stiff or making noise when turning
Put duct tape around the rip until you get it fixed
Great content ….thank you😊👍🏻
👍😊
Thanks very helpful
Raymond Duke 👍😊
Good video thanks 👍
very useful
Undo that end from the rack then put some grease inside then screw it back on.. there is a hole on the inside that will press new grease into the inner tie rod..since you need alignment do anything & everything to prevent further alignment cost..really I would replace the whole tie rod by the looks of that boot they are cheap ..don't matter about cost just so long there is a fitting..cheap tie rod with a fitting will last 5 times longer than a sealed tie rod end just lube 2 twice a year ..fun fun fun
my Toyota dealership told me my boot was twisted and the whole rack and pinion would eventually need to be replaced? I can't find any terminology about a twisted boot though so am I confused...is there no way of "untwisting" it?
If the boot is twisted then the clamp on the larger end of the boot can always be removed to untwist the boot. If you cannot get the original clamp back on you can always use a zip tie. Also if your rack and pinion is leaking you could always try adding some kind of stop leak to the power steering fluid before paying an arm and a leg to have the system replaced.
@@proclaimliberty2000 Hello have 2000 Lexus LS430 my rack in boot is leaking. and the boot have a huge hole. Can I only replaced the boot or the rack need replaced?
What kind of greese do we use to re pack it??
Use silicone grease - it won't soften the rubber. Bearing grease is typically a lithium base.
How is the air going to be vent out during compression and extension. The rubber boot is going to collapse during full extend and then it will be broken.
What type of grease should be used so rubber isn’t affected?
Red rubber grease
How long can I drive with a ripped boot I have the same car it doesn't leak anything but boot has a big ripped I repack it with a lil grease too help it what do you think
It depends on how big the rip is and how much road debris it’s letting in. The purpose of the boot is to keep dirt out and keep everything on the inside clean which helps keep the seal from wearing prematurely.
@@proclaimliberty2000 so in reality as long as dirt /rocks doesn't get in there an it has some grease that it will be fine ? Plus it's not leaking same car in the video I paid 1600 put 400$into work into it already an only had it for 2 months I won't be able too afford anything else for a while
@@proclaimliberty2000 it could last another 3-10 years ?
@@proclaimliberty2000 there no grit an sand or anything in there really seems clean an always had lil grease inside...my steering is not stiff at all I drive with 2 fingers sometimes like a caddy
Cover the rip on the boot with duct tape until you get it fixed
Nice work
Helpful and well lit 💡
👍😊
So if my boots are leaking should I just replace my entire rack and pinion or should I just replace the seals and the boots?
Jose Guevara try some blue devil power steering stop leak
proclaimliberty2000 should I drain out the power steering fluid that’s already in the system
Jose Guevara I would if it’s dirty , but otherwise I wouldn’t worry about it.
proclaimliberty2000 thanks I’ll give it a try 🙏🏻
Jose Guevara 👍😊
great video thanks
thank you
Great video man
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