Love the 5 minute series. My take on the ugly phase is just to let nature run its course. Yes seeing long strands of green hair or patches of red slim is ugly but shows the diversity of the reef tank. Everyone always talks how they have a slice of ocean in their living rooms or else where, but forget that algae even pest algae is a crucial part to a reef tank in terms of biodiversity. I do not let my tank get over run by nusiance algae but if a few strands or patches show up I'm not going to freak out and start dumping in cultured bacteria, instead I'm going to tweak my feeding routine either reduce or feed more often depending on my tanks needs and type of "pest algae".
sovereign reef yes people forget that algae is a “normal occurrence” within our reef tanks! Don’t fret the algae it’s normal. After all, the ocean is not 100% algae free.
I think thanks to these videos, I managed to skip the ugly phase, but because I am new to this and I kind of half followed the steps throughout my Reefing journey. 4 months in and the only problem I really have is 2 different types of film Algae one brown and one nice looking green. Both are just surface films and don't extend any grassy algae into the water column. I have no Coraline growth which is a big shame. I bought white rock with the intention of slowly watching it grow a surface of Coraline Algae turning pink and purple which sadly my tank has not a spec of Coraline. That was my biggest desire coming into the hobby because I've heard time and time again that if your tank is growing Coraline it's ready for coral. The only live Coraline I have was bought already living on my Livestock like Coral/snails and I've used KH Coralline GRO since I started to up dKH although there isn't any new growth. I saw a Spirorbis worm as a little spec a month ago and though I'd finally made it lol.
Just an update, no more brown algae, now it's a nice green film and I'm seeing good results still :) I've been maintaining a nice weekly water change and testing routine and dosing small amounts by hand although am looking into a Kamoer Dosing pump. I finally see coralline spreading over my frag plugs and I've been saving for equipment I still need, like an RODI with a booster pump, I would like an InkBird aquarium heat controller so I have a little better control over temps with a fan and my 100w heater and I need to upgrade my Aquaaqua ATO to a Tunze Osmolator just because the aqua has overfilled a little on me a couple times and I tooth brush it weekly.. I found a huge 250 liter water barrel in hard waste to keep prepared new salt water in. And I just keep discovering more things to save money for lol
Do you quarantine a clean up crew? How can you be sure they don’t carry any pest? I saw video on how to clean and dip corals, but what do you do with invertebrate?
I'd love to see a new series of this for todays products. Been watching these over and over planning my first salt water aquarium. Also is Brs open to the public I am from minnesota.
I was hesitant about restarting my tank over until I heard I can go 4 months without lighting. If that's the case, that'll give me some time to save up for those Aqua Illumination Prime HD.
So just to clarify; Setup tank, put in bacteria of some kind like Dr. Tims, then add 1 Fish.... Keep checking the chemistry, if it's ok then add a tang or other cleanup style critters, also add Vibrant.. Leave the light off for 4 months then you can turn it on full time?
So tank , bacteria, Dr. Tim's. And vibrant and a fish keep checking levels if good then cleanup crew and lights after 4 months....... I'm totally new to saltwater fish..... I breed ball pythons and retics...... Just want to make sure this is right don't want to kill fish ....or tourture them in any way.......this is first time I heard this ...I've always heard it takes a while before fish......
You can start the skimmer from the beginning. Just make sure to temporarily turn it off while you add any bacteria in a bottle type additives so that your skimmer doesn't remove it right away.
I'm curious how many have used Vibrant or Microbacter to avoid the ugly stage. I'm setting up my 4th tank and have had ugly phases no matter if I used dry rock or well established live rock from a 10 year old tank. Avoiding the ugly stage would be amazing.
I followed their instructions pretty closely (my tank is in a bedroom so had to turn on the LEDs at 20% so the fish had a day/night). Yesterday was 4 weeks for my tank, 2 clowns and a yellow tang. My 36 gallon bowfront really hasn't had an ugly phase. The tang even eats algae from the sand bed, between him and the vibrant the tank looks great. Really helps that the rock came from a "used live rock" bin.
@Philexr Clips I ended up converting to freshwater, but before that no algae or cyano outbreaks. Dosing the vibrant really works but use it like a prescription. If after 4 months you stop the dose and you get an outbreak there is another problem.
Love you videos and thanks for all the tips. I am wondering what would be a substitute for the tang in this cycling fase? I am cycling a 10g nano and I wouldnt dare to put a tang in there. Blenny maybe? a herbivore one
You might be best off using inverts instead, especially in a smaller tank like a 10 gallon. Trochus snails are a great option. Once your tank gets a little more established, a small pincushion or blue tuxedo urchin may also be a good choice.
Best to wait until the tank is cycled. You'll also want to make sure there is something for them to eat. Often times, reefers will add a clean up crew too early and they will all starve out.
It's a good idea to get into your regular maintenance rhythm right off the bat. While water changes might not be necessary that early on, there is something to be said about establishing good habits!
Hey Ryan, I’ve loved watching this series of setup videos. Just a couple of questions if you could help me out here. During the cycle process I know I must keep the skimmer and filter socks off, but at what point do I put them on, after cycle 1 or after cycle 2? Also you mention at the end of this video about buying a single piece of live rock but I will be already be putting live rock in from my local fish store from the get go so am I just skipping over that part as I will already have it in there? Thank you so much for releasing very informative and helpful videos like these, I’m only a few weeks away from buying my first marine aquarium, so excited to say the least.
You'll want to turn the skimmer off when you add any sort of bacteria in a bottle product like the Dr. Tim's one and only that Ryan talks about in the part 1 video. That said, after a few hours, it's ok to turn the skimmer on. The skimmer is a helpful part of the tank's filtration system and will help remove fish waste, uneaten food, and other things that would otherwise break down and contribute to ammonia in the tank. Since you're starting with live rock, you're correct. You can ignore the step about putting a small piece of rock in your tank to seed the dry rock as you won't have any.
Would it be ok to do a 1% to 100% acclimation mode on the lights when adding microbacter clean? Than obviously adding corals at 4 months or when coraline is taking over?
We usually suggest leaving the lights off until the 4 month mark. If you want to deviate from that plan, that's totally fine. Your results may just be a little different than ours.
Not sure if I understood this right. 4 months without lights with live rocks and live sands. No corals as well? I’m moving house in 2 months time and planning to start my salt water aquarium when I’m there. But if I can start now without the lights and sumps, i could set that up quickly to start the cycle now.
I believe that watching a video of yours a while back about leaving lights out during cycle and I be;iev you said 6 weeks after is what has made my 10 gallon no skimmer a breeze for 5 months now!!!! Everyone in nano reef kept telling me to turn on lights for my poor fish! Glad I didnt listen and just kept the room bright! I have not had one speck of algae! I also started with dead white rock. 5 weeks to cycle but used live sand and then waited another 6 weeks before coral and lights! Thanks so much for all you do! This time its much harder though! lol. Because I setup a 36 with 40 lbs of live rock plus over 30 marine pure balls in sump that were live. I am starting to wonder though, i tested b4 hand and kept getting 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites while it was in the rubbermaid trash can with wavemaker for months. I got small amount of nitrites. Lfs said I ws more than likely cycle but I started with a yellow tail damsel just in case. I added a small amount of ammonia to test it and it failed the 24 conversion test and now I have small ammonia and nitrites! If I would have been cycled that should not have happened. I have 18 corals I won from unique corals waiting to go in and dont know if I have the patience this time because my 10 gallon is to crowded with them in there! I am going to add DR tim or Biospira, and test after and give it 2 months after this with no lights. i will add a tang if I get zero amonia and another one of those fish and some bactostarter after cycle and keep lights off and pray! LOL Does this sound ;ike a good plan? I sure hope it donst take 5 weeks with live rock and some came from tank so I know its live unless it died in the rubbermaid! Thanks so much for all you do! You guys help so many people!
Hard to say that the full story is uncovered yet, but it's looking increasingly like introducing the right scavengers and bacteria types could be the key to success. Pods and Life Source are both fantastic options!
What about if you have a biocube 32 and cant have a yellow tang or the other fish you stated cz the tan is to small. Any recommendations for fish for a smaller tsnk?
There aren't too many great utilitarian fish for nano tanks, but you could consider an algae blenny or even a small urchin as a non-fish option. Urchins are great at eating algae :)
@@BRStv what would you recommend a tuxedo urchin or a green. I dont even have water in the tank yet. I've just been trying to get as much info before I set it up.
Sinatra Beard hey any advice on what route you took? I’m about to start my biocube 32. Also, shouldn’t the fish be quarantined before adding to the tank?
@@Aaron-um7ofhave alot of patience bud. My tank is still not cycled and I started May 3rd. I would say add the water and the beneficial bacteria a ammonia source and let the tank do its thing for 3 months before you start doing anything. I did away with the cheap media basket and got the media basket from intank Aquatics along with the refugiem basket. When I added the refugiem I was shocked at how better my water parameters were. No light at all either for 3 or 4 months.
You mentioned getting some live rock and scraping off the coralline algae. Is this a better solution than the coralline algae kits? And is it still even needed with Real Reef Rock?
Is the new tank stage applicable to brand new tanks or used tank e.g a tank that has always had cichlids in it for years..and PS...your channel is the best out there..love your work
This will apply to any tank that you're just setting up. Used tanks, assuming that they've been dried out, will need to go through the same cycling process.
I'm at this stage brown just started I've done my best to keep the lights off .using a blue led from Walmart to light up my 32 biocube instead of the coral light it came with starting my vibrant regiment Sunday and buying my first yellow tang and some emerald crabs too Am I on the right track ?
I'm not even gonna comment on that tatoo . The vibrant idea sounds good ! Great advice . You got pest from Coralline algae taken from another tank once . Ain't there a better alternative for Coralline ?
Both are viable options to help with algae in the tank, so you would not need a fish. Keeping low nutrient levels will be important for keeping algae out of the tank.
Would you add a new fish every few weeks during this time, how often for a new fish to be added? Should you quarantine the new fish first, with quarantine I would think it be over 4 months before all the fish could get in the tank?
Thanks for the video, loving the series. One thing I don't understand is how you would add fish into the tank when you already have tangs, aren't they aggressive towards new tank mates especially other tangs
It depends on what order you add fish to the tank, and what fish you put together. There are also tricks to help limit aggression depending on the fish you have. It is always good to research what is compatible, before buying it for the tank. It is also good to have a back up plan in case aggression becomes an issue.
@@BRStv thanks for the reply guys. Do you have a video on how to reduce aggression in the tank? And if you did add a tang or two (say in a 120 gallon) how could you add additional tangs or small fish who aren't aggressive? Any links would be appreciated so I know where to start
How do you know when you nitrogen cycle has completed. My new tank has been reading 0 on ammonia and nitrite for 10 days now and my nitrate is up to 1.5. I have a few fish thriving already. When should I do my first water change and turn on the lights?
We'd suggest starting your water change schedule, if only to get in a good habit of doing them regularly. I like to do a water change once per week because I remember to do it. It's all about finding a water change schedule that works around your personal schedule. As far as the lights go, we'd suggest waiting 4 months before turning the lights on in the tank. It sounds like the initial cycle is complete in your tank. Now, it's all about setting yourself up for long term success! 😁
But I'm still confused, do you try to remove any of this alerge? My tank is smack in the middle of the ugly phase. I just did a wc and tried getting most green hair and the red slime algae out,. Is this correct? Or leave it and let it run its course?
You can still manually remove nuisance algae, and work to get this out of the tank. Keeping low nutrients will be important, and if you can do this you should see this ugly phase begin to disappear. Using a bacteria additive, or something like Vibrant can help to kill this off as well.
Is there a spectrum of light that most common algae don’t grow under, or at the very least a spectrum that would encourage growth of good algae? Wondering if there could be some sort of light I could use throughout the 4 month cycle.
Algae can grow under almost all light spectrums, but generally uses the yellow/red/green spectrums most. If you must have a light on during this 4 month period, it's best to try to avoid those particular spectrums.
I’m on day 35 and have no algae as of yet. Lights still off and nitrogen cycle is well beyond complete. If I add a lawnmower blenny without algae, will it get spoiled with fish food and not eat algae when it comes? I feel like the e170 is to small for a tang. I have 2 small springer damsels in the tank currently. Thanks for your feedback.
If you purchase a lawnmower blenny, just make sure that it's eating prepared foods before you buy. Sometimes, they don't take to prepared foods well and will starve over time. Other than that, I like your plan!
You can, but just make sure there is a food source for any clean up crew. Often times, reefers go overboard on the clean up crew and they end up dying of starvation.
I'm getting ready to start a 120 gallon reef tank. I will leave the lights off for 4 months and add Dr. Tim's and Vibrant as you recommend. Should I be doing a 10 percent weekly water change right from the start or wait a bit to start that? Thanks
It's good practice to start all of your regular maintenance from the beginning. While it may not always be 100% necessary, getting into good habits will never ever hurt.
After my tank has finished its cycle, should I add copepods and phytoplankton as soon as it has finished to start building their population, or wait until the lights are on so the phyto can use it to grow?
Copepods and phytoplankton can be added at any time after the cycle. Phyto doesn't reproduce in the aquarium as easily as it does when we're trying to culture it separately, so I'm not too concerned about adding it before the lights are on.
As long as you trust the source. Rock is really hard to quarantine because you can't dip it without killing things on the rock off. Visual inspection and trust is the best you can do in most cases.
I have a 32g with Caribsea Liferock and Caribsea sand. Do I need to have the lights on during cycle and how long per day? Or just off? I used Dr. Tim's bacteria and ammonia, my ammonia is dropping now to 0.25 from 2.0 on the 10th day of cycling
My tank has been up and running for 3 months, fish in it for 2 weeks, natural indirect sun light up until the fish were added, 2 hours of lights on now (my royal gramma prefers it when it’s off) and virtually no algae yet besides a super thin film on the glass. Moving 2 clowns from QT in a few weeks and then plan to get an algae eating blenny, likely the orange spot. I’d like to add some hardier coral soon, would you recommend I slowly ramp up lights in 30 min increments?
That sounds like a good plan. Just be sure that your tank has a full photo period when you add the corals as they'll rely on the light source for photosynthesis.
Right around the 3-4 month mark will be sufficient unless you're noticing a reason to continue. We're really just trying to reduce that initial ugly phase, which usually occurs within the first few months.
what is the recommended water change schedule during this stage 2 time? I have 20 gal nano no skimmer. carbon and filter pads. 2 clowns is all at this time.
We normally suggest starting your regular water change schedule sooner rather than later. It may not be 100% necessary, but there is something to be said about getting yourself into good habits. Weekly or bi-weekly would be ideal. In your case with no skimmer, I'd opt for a weekly water change. Not too hard with a 20 gallon as you can do a decent size water change with one 5 gallon bucket :)
If I’m doing half dry rock and half live rock in my tank should I cycle with lights on or lights off? Would adding vibrant be a benefit during cycling process? Thanks
Not sure if I’m too late to the game, but have a question about this process if you are able to help out. I’m about two months in since the beginning of the cycle on a 20g cube. Everything cycled fine, and added one Royal Gramma and a few snails. I was concerned about a tang or other algae eating fish because I don’t have easy access to good fish stores with quarantined fish. Instead I plan to rely on a CUC to accomplish this. Lights have been off the entire time. I have no noticeable algae or diatoms. Nitrates are a bit high (4ppm) but phosphates around 0.01-2 ppm. I’m trying to determine if I should go ahead and start vibrant. I’ve heard you would want a skimmer, but my tank is small and I’m using the back space for a desktop uv sterilizer and bio media. The last time I used vibrant I think it might have bottomed out my nutrients and caused a Dino outbreak. Just wondering what you think about using it in a tank this small with no skimmer. Love the vids by the way, you all are great!
Your nitrate levels are actually pretty good, assuming they're stable. I assume you mean 0.01-0.02 ppm phosphate. If that's the case, then your phosphate levels are also pretty spot on. The goal is low, but not zero and you're nailing that right now. Given the info here, if I were in your shoes, I wouldn't worry about dosing Vibrant at this particular stage, but it isn't a bad thing to have on hand just in case.
I am 1-2 months into this phase. I have two clownfish in (maybe I added them too soon) and lights off. Yellow tangs are crazy expensive now, what else do you recommend to replace the yellow tang? I have 3 more months to save up for one but would rather get something cheaper :D
We like to get into the rhythm of doing your regular water changes right away, even if they may not be 100% necessary. There is something to be said about getting yourself into good habits from the get-go.
@@BRStv hey so mainly yellow tangs are still pretty expensive around 200-300, so do you have any advice on alternative options that do the same job but are a lot cheaper? I’ve been staring up a new aquarium and having a tang that cost the same that it takes to put up the aquarium just doesn’t seem right to me lol, thanks.
@@rev_6427 bristletooth tang eat the same things tangs do but MORE types of algae and pests they are cheaper but not as pretty (hints the cheaper part) Happy Reefing!
So you have fish in the tank for 4 months and never turn the lights on? Isnt that bad for the fish? Wont that be dramatic for them when all of a sudden you run your light for a normal photo period?
There will be ambient light so the fish will be fine. If this is in a location like a basement, and say it does not have much ambient light, then we would put lights to low intensity for the fish. This would be less common to not be around any ambient light.
Loving the 5 minute videos - thanks for doing this! I'm setting up my seahorse tank... putting in rock and sand today, and hopefully water tonight. I've cycled many tanks and realize it's a long and often ugly process, and I like the suggestion to get some fish in there to help with it, BUT, since this will be a pony tank, I won't be keeping any of that type of fish in there. Any suggestions for livestock I can put in during the ugly phase that I can keep in there once I add the seahorses? Maybe just a bunch of snails or a sandsifter, sea slug? Thanks in advance.
We would likely just add some snails to this tank to help cleanup, and focus on keeping nutrient levels low to avoid algae. Keeping lights on during the cycle can help prevent early algae growth.
It's usually that near UV spectrum that really brings out the fluorescence in corals. Depending on your particular situation, you could consider adding on actinic supplemental lighting to help bring that out in your corals.
You can. This hasn't been done very frequently as Vibrant's popularity has just popped up in recent months, but the theory is that it could cut down on that "ugly phase" pretty substantially. Vibrant is just a bacteria specifically designed to feed off of algae, so it won't have an effect on the tank's cycle itself.
Interesting concept to wait 4 months but I assume most new reefers are hesitant to wait for lights. I also like the advice to add tangs when they’re small and trade them out later.
I am setting up a frag tank and dont have time to wait 4 months to turn light on! I never had an ugly stage since I followed your advise on first two! I am going to pull some rocks and media from my other tanks. plus add marco rocks rubble I am buying from you for substrate. Should i use fresh salt water or use the water from my other tanks after doing a wc? Does the tank need to be fully cycled for zoas and shrooms? I have some turbo start and mb 7, which is best to get it going? I also have some amonia from dr tims. Should I add that? I only have amonia test kit and not one for nitrites, do I need to pick that up? I also have nitrate kit of corse! I totally forget how to know when its cycled. Is it when ammonia is 0 again and some nitrates or do I need to make sure I dont have nitrites? Are nitrates bad for corals? Sorry so many questions! I dont have time to revisit everything but am doing a quick refresher corse lol
If you're pulling rock/media from an established tank, you should be good. Corals don't have the same negative reaction to ammonia like fish do, so it's less of a concern in a frag tank environment. Just fill with fresh saltwater, add your rock/media, and then you'll be good to go. You can add some Microbacter7 if it gives you peace of mind, but is likely not needed in this particular case. You'll want to keep testing for nitrates and phosphates. Low, but not zero is the goal. For us, that means less than 0.1 ppm phosphates and less than 10 ppm nitrates.
Im moving from 13gallon cube to 100gallon, I have a mixed reef in the 13g, Could i put my nano display into my sump with the nano light and my pair of clowns in main display with no lights on it? I planned to add recommended bottle of bacteria day1 with clowns and dose vibrant weekly 10ml per 100g i believe, add algae eatng fish (tang or blenny) and sixline within first month? Thanks!
That shouldn't be an issue. A couple of small fish in such a large water volume (relative to your current 13 gallon) are not likely going to result in any significant amount of ammonia, especially if you're adding bottled bacteria from the start.
Probably not ideal for a tank of this size as they tend to grow a bit faster than some of the other tangs out there. That is, unless you can find a very small one and are ok with the idea that you're either going to have to upgrade relatively soon or trade it in for a smaller one down the road.
We would suggest following the advice in the video and waiting a while before turning the lights on. This will help get things stabilized so that you lessen the chance for an outbreak of algae.
So if I set it up and dump stuff in I can put fish in and then just leave lights off for a while....the stuff I dump in will stop ammonia from burning the fish's gills
The bacteria in the bottle will help convert ammonia to less toxic nitrites and even less toxic nitrates. Just don't go crazy adding fish. Start with one or two hardy fish like a clownfish.
That's correct. The fish will do just fine with the ambient room lighting. Once you add corals, you'll have to turn the lights on as they're photosynthetic.
Coralline algae covers surfaces, making it harder for undesirable algae to grow in that spot. It's not a necessity, however, it is a sign of a healthy reef tank.
I dont know what the problem was but Vibrant ruined my tank. I had 2 clowns, a goby, and a tang. Within 2 hours of adding vibrant for the first time, my tang died. The next afternoon my goby and one of the clowns died. I have looked at every option I can think of and even talking to people on r2r, and the only suspect is the vibrant.
Potentially, but don't start you refugium too soon as we've found that it will usually just result in the macro algae turning to mush. Plus, algae will uptake ammonia, so it can mess with the tank's nitrogen cycle if you start it up right away.
@@BRStv Thanks, so maybe get through the initial nitrogen cycle, then fire up the refugium? BTW been loving the 5 minute reef setup series. You guys have some of the best saltwater content on you tube.
Sounds like you've got some diatoms going on. That's pretty normal once the lights turn on. Just keep up with your regular maintenance like water changes to keep the tank clean and they'll go away on their own with time.
If you don't QT your fish, you could absolutely be introducing disease. While it's best practice to QT, most beginner reefers don't. These particular fish were purchased from a supplier who quarantines their fish before shipping.
Correct. The idea here is to get the tank up and stable enough to more easily support corals. Starting with dry rocks has made this more and more important as we don't have the wide variety of bacteria from the start vs when we used to use wet live rock from the ocean in years' past.
@@BRStv I have a 10 gallon mini sea. I am at the 1st stage of setup. If I launch my first fish before corals, how will nitrates and phosphates be exported? I have no algae in my sump. Or is the export of nitrates and phosphates unimportant without corals? Thank you)
Brs is the only channel I have seen that actually replied to a question I have asked, great channel, don’t understand why this video got disliked
THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE GUIDE!!!! DO NOT SKIP!!!!
Love the 5 minute series.
My take on the ugly phase is just to let nature run its course. Yes seeing long strands of green hair or patches of red slim is ugly but shows the diversity of the reef tank.
Everyone always talks how they have a slice of ocean in their living rooms or else where, but forget that algae even pest algae is a crucial part to a reef tank in terms of biodiversity.
I do not let my tank get over run by nusiance algae but if a few strands or patches show up I'm not going to freak out and start dumping in cultured bacteria, instead I'm going to tweak my feeding routine either reduce or feed more often depending on my tanks needs and type of "pest algae".
sovereign reef yes people forget that algae is a “normal occurrence” within our reef tanks! Don’t fret the algae it’s normal. After all, the ocean is not 100% algae free.
I think thanks to these videos, I managed to skip the ugly phase, but because I am new to this and I kind of half followed the steps throughout my Reefing journey. 4 months in and the only problem I really have is 2 different types of film Algae one brown and one nice looking green.
Both are just surface films and don't extend any grassy algae into the water column. I have no Coraline growth which is a big shame. I bought white rock with the intention of slowly watching it grow a surface of Coraline Algae turning pink and purple which sadly my tank has not a spec of Coraline. That was my biggest desire coming into the hobby because I've heard time and time again that if your tank is growing Coraline it's ready for coral.
The only live Coraline I have was bought already living on my Livestock like Coral/snails and I've used KH Coralline GRO since I started to up dKH although there isn't any new growth. I saw a Spirorbis worm as a little spec a month ago and though I'd finally made it lol.
Just an update, no more brown algae, now it's a nice green film and I'm seeing good results still :) I've been maintaining a nice weekly water change and testing routine and dosing small amounts by hand although am looking into a Kamoer Dosing pump. I finally see coralline spreading over my frag plugs and I've been saving for equipment I still need, like an RODI with a booster pump, I would like an InkBird aquarium heat controller so I have a little better control over temps with a fan and my 100w heater and I need to upgrade my Aquaaqua ATO to a Tunze Osmolator just because the aqua has overfilled a little on me a couple times and I tooth brush it weekly.. I found a huge 250 liter water barrel in hard waste to keep prepared new salt water in. And I just keep discovering more things to save money for lol
Do you think it was worth the 4 months?
Do you quarantine a clean up crew? How can you be sure they don’t carry any pest? I saw video on how to clean and dip corals, but what do you do with invertebrate?
I'd love to see a new series of this for todays products. Been watching these over and over planning my first salt water aquarium. Also is Brs open to the public I am from minnesota.
Ryan your knowledge is awesome. Love seeing your videos
I was hesitant about restarting my tank over until I heard I can go 4 months without lighting. If that's the case, that'll give me some time to save up for those Aqua Illumination Prime HD.
that’s what i’m doing. i’m about to finish cycling in the next couple days. Are use the starter kit from reef supply.
Thanks for this knowledge.
What is the name of that super colorful fish at 1:10 picking and the bottom of the tank?
That would be a Quoyi Parrotfish
Hard to tell someone who just spent a few grand on a tank setup to not turn on their light for 4 months. 🤪
Patience
@philfasulo6987 yeah I'm 1 week in and as much as I want fish and coral....I'm taking my time until everything Is worth it.
Great video, can you make a video specifically on quarantining a fish, treatment and what kind of meds to treat which disease.
We plan on covering this more in future videos. Especially in new episodes of our BRS360 series! (:
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So just to clarify; Setup tank, put in bacteria of some kind like Dr. Tims, then add 1 Fish.... Keep checking the chemistry, if it's ok then add a tang or other cleanup style critters, also add Vibrant.. Leave the light off for 4 months then you can turn it on full time?
You got it 🙂
So tank , bacteria, Dr. Tim's. And vibrant and a fish keep checking levels if good then cleanup crew and lights after 4 months....... I'm totally new to saltwater fish..... I breed ball pythons and retics...... Just want to make sure this is right don't want to kill fish ....or tourture them in any way.......this is first time I heard this ...I've always heard it takes a while before fish......
Do you need to feed the fish during that 4 months?
Nice summary and simple approach. I plan to follow this cycle process. When would I start the skimmer?
You can start the skimmer from the beginning. Just make sure to temporarily turn it off while you add any bacteria in a bottle type additives so that your skimmer doesn't remove it right away.
I'm curious how many have used Vibrant or Microbacter to avoid the ugly stage. I'm setting up my 4th tank and have had ugly phases no matter if I used dry rock or well established live rock from a 10 year old tank. Avoiding the ugly stage would be amazing.
I followed their instructions pretty closely (my tank is in a bedroom so had to turn on the LEDs at 20% so the fish had a day/night). Yesterday was 4 weeks for my tank, 2 clowns and a yellow tang. My 36 gallon bowfront really hasn't had an ugly phase. The tang even eats algae from the sand bed, between him and the vibrant the tank looks great. Really helps that the rock came from a "used live rock" bin.
@Philexr Clips I ended up converting to freshwater, but before that no algae or cyano outbreaks. Dosing the vibrant really works but use it like a prescription. If after 4 months you stop the dose and you get an outbreak there is another problem.
did u have video that discus bout fish that fighting pest?
Love you videos and thanks for all the tips. I am wondering what would be a substitute for the tang in this cycling fase? I am cycling a 10g nano and I wouldnt dare to put a tang in there. Blenny maybe? a herbivore one
You might be best off using inverts instead, especially in a smaller tank like a 10 gallon. Trochus snails are a great option. Once your tank gets a little more established, a small pincushion or blue tuxedo urchin may also be a good choice.
Awesome videos. Helps a lot
Hello, just curious when would be the best time to introduce the clean up crew fish? Should I wait until the tank is completely cycled? Thank you
Best to wait until the tank is cycled. You'll also want to make sure there is something for them to eat. Often times, reefers will add a clean up crew too early and they will all starve out.
How soon do you add the suggested fish?
Thank you for the guide. How often do you water change during the 4 month cycling phase?
It's a good idea to get into your regular maintenance rhythm right off the bat. While water changes might not be necessary that early on, there is something to be said about establishing good habits!
Is it sufficient to change the water every two weeks? How often do you change the water each month?
Hey Ryan, I’ve loved watching this series of setup videos. Just a couple of questions if you could help me out here. During the cycle process I know I must keep the skimmer and filter socks off, but at what point do I put them on, after cycle 1 or after cycle 2? Also you mention at the end of this video about buying a single piece of live rock but I will be already be putting live rock in from my local fish store from the get go so am I just skipping over that part as I will already have it in there?
Thank you so much for releasing very informative and helpful videos like these, I’m only a few weeks away from buying my first marine aquarium, so excited to say the least.
You'll want to turn the skimmer off when you add any sort of bacteria in a bottle product like the Dr. Tim's one and only that Ryan talks about in the part 1 video. That said, after a few hours, it's ok to turn the skimmer on. The skimmer is a helpful part of the tank's filtration system and will help remove fish waste, uneaten food, and other things that would otherwise break down and contribute to ammonia in the tank.
Since you're starting with live rock, you're correct. You can ignore the step about putting a small piece of rock in your tank to seed the dry rock as you won't have any.
Great guys. Great information as always 😊👍
Would it be ok to do a 1% to 100% acclimation mode on the lights when adding microbacter clean? Than obviously adding corals at 4 months or when coraline is taking over?
We usually suggest leaving the lights off until the 4 month mark. If you want to deviate from that plan, that's totally fine. Your results may just be a little different than ours.
@@BRStv Thanks
Not sure if I understood this right. 4 months without lights with live rocks and live sands. No corals as well? I’m moving house in 2 months time and planning to start my salt water aquarium when I’m there. But if I can start now without the lights and sumps, i could set that up quickly to start the cycle now.
I believe that watching a video of yours a while back about leaving lights out during cycle and I be;iev you said 6 weeks after is what has made my 10 gallon no skimmer a breeze for 5 months now!!!! Everyone in nano reef kept telling me to turn on lights for my poor fish! Glad I didnt listen and just kept the room bright! I have not had one speck of algae! I also started with dead white rock. 5 weeks to cycle but used live sand and then waited another 6 weeks before coral and lights! Thanks so much for all you do! This time its much harder though! lol. Because I setup a 36 with 40 lbs of live rock plus over 30 marine pure balls in sump that were live. I am starting to wonder though, i tested b4 hand and kept getting 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites while it was in the rubbermaid trash can with wavemaker for months. I got small amount of nitrites. Lfs said I ws more than likely cycle but I started with a yellow tail damsel just in case. I added a small amount of ammonia to test it and it failed the 24 conversion test and now I have small ammonia and nitrites! If I would have been cycled that should not have happened. I have 18 corals I won from unique corals waiting to go in and dont know if I have the patience this time because my 10 gallon is to crowded with them in there! I am going to add DR tim or Biospira, and test after and give it 2 months after this with no lights. i will add a tang if I get zero amonia and another one of those fish and some bactostarter after cycle and keep lights off and pray! LOL Does this sound ;ike a good plan? I sure hope it donst take 5 weeks with live rock and some came from tank so I know its live unless it died in the rubbermaid! Thanks so much for all you do! You guys help so many people!
So don’t turn LED lights on until cycling is finsihed or should I wait longer ?
Rather than dosing vibrant is the new consensus AF Life Source and copepods?
Hard to say that the full story is uncovered yet, but it's looking increasingly like introducing the right scavengers and bacteria types could be the key to success. Pods and Life Source are both fantastic options!
@ 4:07 what brand is the light fixture?
That's a Giesemann Matrixx T5 fixture
What about if you have a biocube 32 and cant have a yellow tang or the other fish you stated cz the tan is to small. Any recommendations for fish for a smaller tsnk?
There aren't too many great utilitarian fish for nano tanks, but you could consider an algae blenny or even a small urchin as a non-fish option. Urchins are great at eating algae :)
@@BRStv what would you recommend a tuxedo urchin or a green. I dont even have water in the tank yet. I've just been trying to get as much info before I set it up.
Sinatra Beard hey any advice on what route you took? I’m about to start my biocube 32. Also, shouldn’t the fish be quarantined before adding to the tank?
@@Aaron-um7ofhave alot of patience bud. My tank is still not cycled and I started May 3rd. I would say add the water and the beneficial bacteria a ammonia source and let the tank do its thing for 3 months before you start doing anything. I did away with the cheap media basket and got the media basket from intank Aquatics along with the refugiem basket. When I added the refugiem I was shocked at how better my water parameters were. No light at all either for 3 or 4 months.
Do you also keep your protein skimmer off and refugium lights off during these first 4 months? Thank you.
You mentioned getting some live rock and scraping off the coralline algae. Is this a better solution than the coralline algae kits? And is it still even needed with Real Reef Rock?
Either way works. While the Real Reef rock does have a purple look to it, I wouldn't rely on it for introducing actual coralline algae.
Is the new tank stage applicable to brand new tanks or used tank e.g a tank that has always had cichlids in it for years..and PS...your channel is the best out there..love your work
This will apply to any tank that you're just setting up. Used tanks, assuming that they've been dried out, will need to go through the same cycling process.
I'm at this stage brown just started I've done my best to keep the lights off .using a blue led from Walmart to light up my 32 biocube instead of the coral light it came with starting my vibrant regiment Sunday and buying my first yellow tang and some emerald crabs too
Am I on the right track ?
Sounds like you're on the right track. Just make sure the yellow tang, or any tang for that matter, is small.
Refugiam online or wait 4 months also? TY BRS
I'm not even gonna comment on that tatoo . The vibrant idea sounds good ! Great advice . You got pest from Coralline algae taken from another tank once . Ain't there a better alternative for Coralline ?
Absolutely. We actually just recently started carrying this product: www.bulkreefsupply.com/pink-purple-live-coralline-algae-kit-arc-reef.html
Do you ever add copepods (something like algaebarn) to your tank? What are the pros and cons?
You definitely can, and this would have Pro's. Extra biodiversity in the tank, and added cleanup of detritus.
Do you need to use fish as the algae prevention or can you just use crabs and snails
Both are viable options to help with algae in the tank, so you would not need a fish. Keeping low nutrient levels will be important for keeping algae out of the tank.
Would you add a new fish every few weeks during this time, how often for a new fish to be added? Should you quarantine the new fish first, with quarantine I would think it be over 4 months before all the fish could get in the tank?
Thanks for the video, loving the series. One thing I don't understand is how you would add fish into the tank when you already have tangs, aren't they aggressive towards new tank mates especially other tangs
It depends on what order you add fish to the tank, and what fish you put together. There are also tricks to help limit aggression depending on the fish you have. It is always good to research what is compatible, before buying it for the tank. It is also good to have a back up plan in case aggression becomes an issue.
@@BRStv thanks for the reply guys. Do you have a video on how to reduce aggression in the tank? And if you did add a tang or two (say in a 120 gallon) how could you add additional tangs or small fish who aren't aggressive? Any links would be appreciated so I know where to start
So when the do you turn lights on? the video on what types of lights was long ago. We can't use them?
What long term utility fish can you use in a 50-60 gal
How do you know when you nitrogen cycle has completed. My new tank has been reading 0 on ammonia and nitrite for 10 days now and my nitrate is up to 1.5. I have a few fish thriving already. When should I do my first water change and turn on the lights?
We'd suggest starting your water change schedule, if only to get in a good habit of doing them regularly. I like to do a water change once per week because I remember to do it. It's all about finding a water change schedule that works around your personal schedule. As far as the lights go, we'd suggest waiting 4 months before turning the lights on in the tank. It sounds like the initial cycle is complete in your tank. Now, it's all about setting yourself up for long term success! 😁
Will the fish be ok without light and if so will it shock them once the lights are turned on after the 4 months?
As long as it's not pitch black for days and months on end, they'll be just fine. Ambient room lighting will get the job done.
So when do u add your first fish?
But I'm still confused, do you try to remove any of this alerge? My tank is smack in the middle of the ugly phase. I just did a wc and tried getting most green hair and the red slime algae out,. Is this correct? Or leave it and let it run its course?
You can still manually remove nuisance algae, and work to get this out of the tank. Keeping low nutrients will be important, and if you can do this you should see this ugly phase begin to disappear. Using a bacteria additive, or something like Vibrant can help to kill this off as well.
@@BRStv Thank you, I will try the Vibrant
I’m getting a 30 gallon tank, assuming I can’t get a yellow tang in that?
Is there a spectrum of light that most common algae don’t grow under, or at the very least a spectrum that would encourage growth of good algae? Wondering if there could be some sort of light I could use throughout the 4 month cycle.
Algae can grow under almost all light spectrums, but generally uses the yellow/red/green spectrums most. If you must have a light on during this 4 month period, it's best to try to avoid those particular spectrums.
Hi Ryan, did you figure out why this did not work in your own personal dream tank?
Can't find a vid on this, Link? Thanks you guys for trying...
For how long should I turn the skimmer off when adding bacteria?
I’m on day 35 and have no algae as of yet. Lights still off and nitrogen cycle is well beyond complete. If I add a lawnmower blenny without algae, will it get spoiled with fish food and not eat algae when it comes? I feel like the e170 is to small for a tang. I have 2 small springer damsels in the tank currently. Thanks for your feedback.
If you purchase a lawnmower blenny, just make sure that it's eating prepared foods before you buy. Sometimes, they don't take to prepared foods well and will starve over time. Other than that, I like your plan!
Can you not add a cleanup crew along with the clowns and sailfin blenny during the no light stage?
You can, but just make sure there is a food source for any clean up crew. Often times, reefers go overboard on the clean up crew and they end up dying of starvation.
I'm getting ready to start a 120 gallon reef tank. I will leave the lights off for 4 months and add Dr. Tim's and Vibrant as you recommend. Should I be doing a 10 percent weekly water change right from the start or wait a bit to start that? Thanks
It's good practice to start all of your regular maintenance from the beginning. While it may not always be 100% necessary, getting into good habits will never ever hurt.
Should I still add these same fish if I am using Marcos reef saver instead of the real reef rock ?
You can follow all of these same steps with the Marco Reef Saver 🙂
Bulk Reef Supply thank you for always replying.
Are you saying that the first few months it’s best to keep the lights off even with fish in the tank?
That's correct. Ambient room lighting will suffice.
Thanks for the info. But is it really necessary to cycle your tank even if u use nsw straight from the sea?
Almost all of the bacteria we care about lives on surfaces, not in the water column, so we would still recommend cycling.
Instead of scraping coralline algae from live rock would you recommend coralline Algae in a bottle or still the live rock
Either way works, but the coralline in a bottle products, like the ARC purple/pink helix, are great because there is less chance for pests.
After my tank has finished its cycle, should I add copepods and phytoplankton as soon as it has finished to start building their population, or wait until the lights are on so the phyto can use it to grow?
Copepods and phytoplankton can be added at any time after the cycle. Phyto doesn't reproduce in the aquarium as easily as it does when we're trying to culture it separately, so I'm not too concerned about adding it before the lights are on.
At this stage, he never mentioned if this 2 cycling steps are done with skimmer on-line. Can you tell me about this ?
The skimmer was online, but shut off for a few hours when any bottled bacteria products were added to avoid removing them from the system.
Is it safe to scrape coraline algae off a fish store rock? or only if you quarantine it 1st?
As long as you trust the source. Rock is really hard to quarantine because you can't dip it without killing things on the rock off. Visual inspection and trust is the best you can do in most cases.
I have a 32g with Caribsea Liferock and Caribsea sand. Do I need to have the lights on during cycle and how long per day? Or just off? I used Dr. Tim's bacteria and ammonia, my ammonia is dropping now to 0.25 from 2.0 on the 10th day of cycling
We suggest keeping your lights off for the first 4 months
My tank has been up and running for 3 months, fish in it for 2 weeks, natural indirect sun light up until the fish were added, 2 hours of lights on now (my royal gramma prefers it when it’s off) and virtually no algae yet besides a super thin film on the glass. Moving 2 clowns from QT in a few weeks and then plan to get an algae eating blenny, likely the orange spot. I’d like to add some hardier coral soon, would you recommend I slowly ramp up lights in 30 min increments?
That sounds like a good plan. Just be sure that your tank has a full photo period when you add the corals as they'll rely on the light source for photosynthesis.
At what point would you discontinue dosing the Vibrant?
Right around the 3-4 month mark will be sufficient unless you're noticing a reason to continue. We're really just trying to reduce that initial ugly phase, which usually occurs within the first few months.
Would you need to use lights right away if you start out a tank with direct from ocean aquacultured live rock?
In that case, running the lights from the start is smart. A lot of the good algae on quality live rock, like coralline, will require lights.
what is the recommended water change schedule during this stage 2 time? I have 20 gal nano no skimmer. carbon and filter pads. 2 clowns is all at this time.
We normally suggest starting your regular water change schedule sooner rather than later. It may not be 100% necessary, but there is something to be said about getting yourself into good habits. Weekly or bi-weekly would be ideal. In your case with no skimmer, I'd opt for a weekly water change. Not too hard with a 20 gallon as you can do a decent size water change with one 5 gallon bucket :)
Are u referring to regular white light as well ? Or is it no light at all ?
Light as a whole. Ambient light from the room is fine, but we leave all dedicated tank lights off during the cycle.
@@BRStv thank you ! U guys are the best !
Is it four months with part 1 or without
I want to use the zeovit system, do I start it during the cycle of after?
Since day 1
If I’m doing half dry rock and half live rock in my tank should I cycle with lights on or lights off? Would adding vibrant be a benefit during cycling process? Thanks
In your case, I would suggest lights on as good quality live rock will have coralline algae on it, which is photosynthetic.
@@BRStv thanks for the reply!! Would you recommend adding vibrant?
Not sure if I’m too late to the game, but have a question about this process if you are able to help out. I’m about two months in since the beginning of the cycle on a 20g cube. Everything cycled fine, and added one Royal Gramma and a few snails. I was concerned about a tang or other algae eating fish because I don’t have easy access to good fish stores with quarantined fish. Instead I plan to rely on a CUC to accomplish this. Lights have been off the entire time. I have no noticeable algae or diatoms. Nitrates are a bit high (4ppm) but phosphates around 0.01-2 ppm. I’m trying to determine if I should go ahead and start vibrant. I’ve heard you would want a skimmer, but my tank is small and I’m using the back space for a desktop uv sterilizer and bio media. The last time I used vibrant I think it might have bottomed out my nutrients and caused a Dino outbreak. Just wondering what you think about using it in a tank this small with no skimmer. Love the vids by the way, you all are great!
Your nitrate levels are actually pretty good, assuming they're stable. I assume you mean 0.01-0.02 ppm phosphate. If that's the case, then your phosphate levels are also pretty spot on. The goal is low, but not zero and you're nailing that right now. Given the info here, if I were in your shoes, I wouldn't worry about dosing Vibrant at this particular stage, but it isn't a bad thing to have on hand just in case.
So do I not add coral until after the 5 months
I am 1-2 months into this phase. I have two clownfish in (maybe I added them too soon) and lights off. Yellow tangs are crazy expensive now, what else do you recommend to replace the yellow tang? I have 3 more months to save up for one but would rather get something cheaper :D
Check out Tomini tangs. They stay relatively small and are also relatively inexpensive. Great algae eaters!
@@BRStv thanks I'll check it out!
If during the cycling without the fish for the first 2 months, do need we to do a water change? As my tank is 450 gallon tank.
We like to get into the rhythm of doing your regular water changes right away, even if they may not be 100% necessary. There is something to be said about getting yourself into good habits from the get-go.
Sure, let’s get a yellow tang now! Easy and cheap 😂
Haha, maybe easy, but not cheap anymore!
@@BRStv hey so mainly yellow tangs are still pretty expensive around 200-300, so do you have any advice on alternative options that do the same job but are a lot cheaper? I’ve been staring up a new aquarium and having a tang that cost the same that it takes to put up the aquarium just doesn’t seem right to me lol, thanks.
@@rev_6427 bristletooth tang eat the same things tangs do but MORE types of algae and pests they are cheaper but not as pretty (hints the cheaper part) Happy Reefing!
So you have fish in the tank for 4 months and never turn the lights on? Isnt that bad for the fish? Wont that be dramatic for them when all of a sudden you run your light for a normal photo period?
There will be ambient light so the fish will be fine. If this is in a location like a basement, and say it does not have much ambient light, then we would put lights to low intensity for the fish. This would be less common to not be around any ambient light.
Loving the 5 minute videos - thanks for doing this! I'm setting up my seahorse tank... putting in rock and sand today, and hopefully water tonight. I've cycled many tanks and realize it's a long and often ugly process, and I like the suggestion to get some fish in there to help with it, BUT, since this will be a pony tank, I won't be keeping any of that type of fish in there. Any suggestions for livestock I can put in during the ugly phase that I can keep in there once I add the seahorses? Maybe just a bunch of snails or a sandsifter, sea slug? Thanks in advance.
We would likely just add some snails to this tank to help cleanup, and focus on keeping nutrient levels low to avoid algae. Keeping lights on during the cycle can help prevent early algae growth.
I have blue light but it don't bring out the color of my coral . What lighting is best for neon coral . Is HD blue lighting or what?
It's usually that near UV spectrum that really brings out the fluorescence in corals. Depending on your particular situation, you could consider adding on actinic supplemental lighting to help bring that out in your corals.
So no Coral during the light off stage? When can I start adding Coral then XD?
Coral require light to survive, so no coral during this lights off stage
What do you mean before you turn the lights on
I just bought live rock to cycle a new tank. It is encrusted with corals and anemones. If I leave the lights off will that life die off?
Anything photosynthetic (like corals and anemones) will die off without light long term.
Red Hair Algae dominated my tank big time when I had 120 gallons.....nothing couldn't remove it or control it
Can you use vibrant while in the middle of cycling your tank
You can. This hasn't been done very frequently as Vibrant's popularity has just popped up in recent months, but the theory is that it could cut down on that "ugly phase" pretty substantially. Vibrant is just a bacteria specifically designed to feed off of algae, so it won't have an effect on the tank's cycle itself.
@@BRStv good to know, and thank your for the reply and valuable information
Interesting concept to wait 4 months but I assume most new reefers are hesitant to wait for lights. I also like the advice to add tangs when they’re small and trade them out later.
I am setting up a frag tank and dont have time to wait 4 months to turn light on! I never had an ugly stage since I followed your advise on first two! I am going to pull some rocks and media from my other tanks. plus add marco rocks rubble I am buying from you for substrate. Should i use fresh salt water or use the water from my other tanks after doing a wc? Does the tank need to be fully cycled for zoas and shrooms? I have some turbo start and mb 7, which is best to get it going? I also have some amonia from dr tims. Should I add that? I only have amonia test kit and not one for nitrites, do I need to pick that up? I also have nitrate kit of corse! I totally forget how to know when its cycled. Is it when ammonia is 0 again and some nitrates or do I need to make sure I dont have nitrites? Are nitrates bad for corals? Sorry so many questions! I dont have time to revisit everything but am doing a quick refresher corse lol
If you're pulling rock/media from an established tank, you should be good. Corals don't have the same negative reaction to ammonia like fish do, so it's less of a concern in a frag tank environment.
Just fill with fresh saltwater, add your rock/media, and then you'll be good to go. You can add some Microbacter7 if it gives you peace of mind, but is likely not needed in this particular case. You'll want to keep testing for nitrates and phosphates. Low, but not zero is the goal. For us, that means less than 0.1 ppm phosphates and less than 10 ppm nitrates.
Im moving from 13gallon cube to 100gallon, I have a mixed reef in the 13g, Could i put my nano display into my sump with the nano light and my pair of clowns in main display with no lights on it? I planned to add recommended bottle of bacteria day1 with clowns and dose vibrant weekly 10ml per 100g i believe, add algae eatng fish (tang or blenny) and sixline within first month? Thanks!
That shouldn't be an issue. A couple of small fish in such a large water volume (relative to your current 13 gallon) are not likely going to result in any significant amount of ammonia, especially if you're adding bottled bacteria from the start.
alright so im confused we do the no light water cycling process for 6 months without fish or with fish im thrown off
Could you add a purple tang?
Probably not ideal for a tank of this size as they tend to grow a bit faster than some of the other tangs out there. That is, unless you can find a very small one and are ok with the idea that you're either going to have to upgrade relatively soon or trade it in for a smaller one down the road.
@@BRStv thanks 👍🏻
My tank have been cycling for almost a month and my ammonia level is at 0.025 . Should I do a 25% water change ? Or should i wait ?
Given the time frame, a water change may be a good idea. You may also want to confirm this reading with another test kit.
If I did a quick cycle method with bottled bacteris and clowns and the tank is done cycling, can I crank on the lights yet or should I still wait?
We would suggest following the advice in the video and waiting a while before turning the lights on. This will help get things stabilized so that you lessen the chance for an outbreak of algae.
How many days or weeks did that style of cycling take? @Tigbert
Hi will Vibrant kill a turf scrubber?
It will negatively impact any algae, hair algae in the scrubber included.
So Should I Dose Vibrant When Cycling The Tank? Or Should I Dose After The Cycle OR When Needed?
You can do either! We have tried adding this during cycle to help avoid algae blooms.
@@BRStv Okay Thanks For The Reply
So if I set it up and dump stuff in I can put fish in and then just leave lights off for a while....the stuff I dump in will stop ammonia from burning the fish's gills
The bacteria in the bottle will help convert ammonia to less toxic nitrites and even less toxic nitrates. Just don't go crazy adding fish. Start with one or two hardy fish like a clownfish.
So, should I turn off the lights at the first 4 mounths? Is that right?
That's correct. The fish will do just fine with the ambient room lighting. Once you add corals, you'll have to turn the lights on as they're photosynthetic.
What do you mean before I turn the lights on… don’t turn them on at all?
In this video series, we suggest waiting 4 months before turning the aquarium lights on.
Anyone know the name of the fish at 0:23?
Those are baby Domino Damsels
@@BRStv Thank you so much! :)
what is the point of the coralline algae?
Coralline algae covers surfaces, making it harder for undesirable algae to grow in that spot. It's not a necessity, however, it is a sign of a healthy reef tank.
I dont know what the problem was but Vibrant ruined my tank. I had 2 clowns, a goby, and a tang. Within 2 hours of adding vibrant for the first time, my tang died. The next afternoon my goby and one of the clowns died. I have looked at every option I can think of and even talking to people on r2r, and the only suspect is the vibrant.
Could this phase be skipped if you start out with a refugium?
Potentially, but don't start you refugium too soon as we've found that it will usually just result in the macro algae turning to mush. Plus, algae will uptake ammonia, so it can mess with the tank's nitrogen cycle if you start it up right away.
@@BRStv Thanks, so maybe get through the initial nitrogen cycle, then fire up the refugium?
BTW been loving the 5 minute reef setup series. You guys have some of the best saltwater content on you tube.
Waited 4 months to turn lights on. The rocks are turning brown very quickly after lights have been turned on. Is this normal?
Sounds like you've got some diatoms going on. That's pretty normal once the lights turn on. Just keep up with your regular maintenance like water changes to keep the tank clean and they'll go away on their own with time.
Do you quarantine the fish before adding into the tank? Couldn’t this introduce disease into a brand new tank?
If you don't QT your fish, you could absolutely be introducing disease. While it's best practice to QT, most beginner reefers don't. These particular fish were purchased from a supplier who quarantines their fish before shipping.
Bulk Reef Supply that scares me
@@BRStv do you have suggested seller of QT and corals?
so are you suggesting that I wait 4 months before adding my first coral?
Correct. The idea here is to get the tank up and stable enough to more easily support corals. Starting with dry rocks has made this more and more important as we don't have the wide variety of bacteria from the start vs when we used to use wet live rock from the ocean in years' past.
Oeps I added som after 1 month @_@
@@BRStv I have a 10 gallon mini sea. I am at the 1st stage of setup. If I launch my first fish before corals, how will nitrates and phosphates be exported? I have no algae in my sump. Or is the export of nitrates and phosphates unimportant without corals? Thank you)