The drivability will be a bit more difficult yes, but the benefits of losing the mass for acceleration far outweigh the drawbacks. For the revs dropping I have something in store for that, or you just shift faster which also increases acceleration.
Just watched all your videos. And subscribed. I'm impressed with the ambition to diy a dry sump pan and adapt a pump. What did the pump come off? As far as the clutch, did your spacing just happen to be perfect for the Colorado Trans? Or will there have to be some modifications to the Trans? I'm just amazed the Trans will have the right bolt pattern and input shaft length and throw out bearing to work with that clutch. Is the 4200 vortec the same bolt pattern as an LS? I have one of these engines pulled from a wrecked envoy and I was thinking about using it for my 1st gen RX7 to be different wanted to turbo it also. But was weary due to the lack of support these engines have. Always thought this should be the American JZ or RB or Barra. The other thing that deterred me was the overall height, but that dry sump helps that alot, what's your pan to valve cover measurement?
Also you should make a video where you take a step back and show everyone what you're doing and why and outline the plans for the car etc. Do a tour of the car and introduce yourself and your shop etc.
@@NeonAvantium I will definitely do that video when I have a shop again. I moved and everything is in storage currently sadly but I'm still doing some engineering and development without a garage.
The mounting distance wasn't correct. I had to shim the throw out bearing to match what was needed. I don't know the pan to valve cover height but it could be the shortest that's ever been. I'm also developing an intake that doesn't wrap above the engine, significantly increasing hood clearance.
It's so easy - even looks like cheating :) But wouldn't this small flywheel be weakened by the holes drilled? Walls between new holes and the old ones does not look very thick. Especially if you're going 400-500 whp with this engine...
I made a kit for someone running around 600hp and they had no issues. The flywheel thickness mixed with having 8 bolts. Every bolt or hole would need to sheer simultaneously for there to be a failure.
Are you concerned about the lack of rotational mass and inertia with this setup vs a traditional flywheel? Revs drop between shifts I mean.
The drivability will be a bit more difficult yes, but the benefits of losing the mass for acceleration far outweigh the drawbacks. For the revs dropping I have something in store for that, or you just shift faster which also increases acceleration.
Just watched all your videos. And subscribed. I'm impressed with the ambition to diy a dry sump pan and adapt a pump. What did the pump come off?
As far as the clutch, did your spacing just happen to be perfect for the Colorado Trans? Or will there have to be some modifications to the Trans? I'm just amazed the Trans will have the right bolt pattern and input shaft length and throw out bearing to work with that clutch. Is the 4200 vortec the same bolt pattern as an LS?
I have one of these engines pulled from a wrecked envoy and I was thinking about using it for my 1st gen RX7 to be different wanted to turbo it also. But was weary due to the lack of support these engines have. Always thought this should be the American JZ or RB or Barra. The other thing that deterred me was the overall height, but that dry sump helps that alot, what's your pan to valve cover measurement?
Also you should make a video where you take a step back and show everyone what you're doing and why and outline the plans for the car etc. Do a tour of the car and introduce yourself and your shop etc.
@@NeonAvantium I will definitely do that video when I have a shop again. I moved and everything is in storage currently sadly but I'm still doing some engineering and development without a garage.
The mounting distance wasn't correct. I had to shim the throw out bearing to match what was needed. I don't know the pan to valve cover height but it could be the shortest that's ever been. I'm also developing an intake that doesn't wrap above the engine, significantly increasing hood clearance.
It's so easy - even looks like cheating :) But wouldn't this small flywheel be weakened by the holes drilled? Walls between new holes and the old ones does not look very thick. Especially if you're going 400-500 whp with this engine...
I made a kit for someone running around 600hp and they had no issues. The flywheel thickness mixed with having 8 bolts. Every bolt or hole would need to sheer simultaneously for there to be a failure.