Great work-around for a common Saab problem! Thanks once again, Amesie! I think a new Saab light is around $70 US. Another problem with LED tail & brake lights in general is that they don't give off heat, so in a snowstorm your lights will cover over with snow.
Neither do incandescent bulbs of that low brightness either. I live in an area where it does snow sometimes in the winter and I have never owned a car with incandescent brake lights that could clear snow on their own This complaint in general is such a minor, infrequent occurrence that way too many people throw around as an easy way to try and make the more efficient and overall much better LED sound inferior. All the days that it's not snowing this issue is completely irrelevant
Brilliant ! Great thinking, our A3 third brakelight has failed today, going to look at fuses etc first but if the unit lights are 'dead' then it's 'plan B' - if those LED strips are available in the UK in red then guess what I'll be doing !! Thanks again Amesie !
Thank you sir! You're a life saver! Just replaced my wife's in her 2012 Focus and according to my purchase history it lasted a whole 41 days. So now I'm gonna try this and see how long it lasts... But for the cost I get two replacements for the price of one which is nice 🤔😉👍🤑
It does look a little smaller than the factory LED light bulb but it certainly is a much more reasonable deal for what those things cost. The other thing I was gonna suggest for something like that is to try a salvage yard. Not sure if that would be less or about the same as a new one since the LEDs are always more expensive in general
Dude you saved my life, I have a recent 2012 Subaru Forester that keeps blowing the leds in the back...... who knows whats going out there. But this will work, now i have to find them in Australia.
I made my own from LEDs for the wing when I added it. The original was inside the back window and it was so dim I can't imagine how it passed DOT for production. 91 Integra 4dr. Lighting sux in general. I may upgrade the tails and cluster lights as well.
I don't think that mystery chip had anything to do with the warning system, there was no additional wire for it to communicate on. The alarm is very possibly based on sensing current.
if you use a small flashlight slide it a long the circuit board you will see the crack or cracks in the copper film then use the finest sandpaper to clean up the copper then solder it and it's fixed.
"Damnit. Please don't be the third brake light. DAMNIT." lol.... I replaced the bulbs in my wife's third brake light, had no idea that 1) it was just regular W5W bulbs (t10 style, like 168s), I always thought it was an LED strip from factory, I was pleasantly surprised. It's a 9-3 convertible.
One question im solder wires from led 12V white stripe to the original wires from car conector and my third light wont work there is no enough resistance then I put some T10 light between wires and led light work properly. I tried with 1k ohm resistor light won't work again. Can somebody please can help?
Good video, but personally i would used the multimeter to find out what failed in the circuitboard and then jumper the track that failed they are mounted in 4 in paralell and 4 in series. That circuitboard looks almost like the GM version for the Opel/Vauhall/GM Astras the LEDs are "Piranha" types 4pin 2 anodes and 2 cathodes easy to desolder and replace them. Then put some clearcoat on the pcb to protect it from moisture. So if you have a failed 3rd brakelight take the multimeter and put it in diode mode then measure each "led" and find which ones failed, they can be purchased from almost any electronic store. And Amesie, look into COB versions of the led modules on ebay they are very bright my plans are to replace my 3rd witch such and then put a reversing camera in the middle :) Keep the good work up !
Hmmmm I have fixed many LED style break lights that have had water ingress most of the time it is an easy fix either broken tracks or over heated current limit Resistor usually less time that the mucking around doing a bodge job.
yup I replaced it once with the oem GM one at over 100.00! They only last about 5 years. This time I went for the Dorman one at 50.00. We'll se how long it last on my 06 Yukon.
Service theft alarm means the alarm module's lithium batteries have finally failed. They're located behind the fender lining on the driver's side front wheel well. Here's a link to a page on how to get that bad boy out: www.thesaabsite.com/faqs/9-5%20(9600)/FAQ--electrical-category--sid-unit-%22service-the-theft-alarm%22-warning.html?id=418 Platonoff provided these instructions, that guy is terrific, saved my butt more than once lol.
+Amesie's Automotive Corner Remember to change both the capacitors and the batteries in the siren. If you don't want the siren at all, just disconnect it and then remove the siren function altogether with tech2. If you have a siren with bad batteries it will start the siren randomly (or always at 3AM in my experience! ;) )
It's rare to find videos these days with comments like this, TH-cam use to be like this in the early days, I hope every video can have a nice comment section such as this
Hello! Just curious on the voltage supplied to the LED. In the video shows that the voltage is just below 12V but the engine is not running. We all know when engine runs in the voltage will spike up to 14V+ right. Doesn't mean this will overvoltage the LED thus reducing its lifespan?
Good point.....and many folks with automatics sit with their foot on the brake in a traffic queue...... Maybe a good idea to put a resistance in the line.
This was a great cheap fix, but cheaper with more choices would have been ebay... Still, 17 buck and right now is pretty good. You might have been able to fix the traces too, but this fix is going to work for a good while I'm sure.
+Daniel28021991 I think the original didn't light the full length of the plastic either. The new LED strip was almost the same length, certainly less than 1" shorter.
Automotive question, although not related to this video... Has any mechanic reading this ever heard of converting a car's hood from lift strut to prop rod? I have a 98 CVPI and am starting to resent the fact I need to replace them every couple years despite the hood almost always being shut. Admittedly, a new pair of lift supports isn't the most expensive investment, but I'd rather avoid the hassle and have something that will most likely outlive the car.
Make new PCB, resolder old LEDs, make solder points waterproof and put everything back together. Or you can jump wire the old PCB - either way this repair would have costed less than 20 bucks.
You don’t have to replace the light assembly…the problem is the crimps on the LED’s. This assembly had no dynamic parts so the issue is the connections and crimps always give it up over time. Force a blade screw drive in the seam of the light and give a small pry all aroung the lens going around and around prying more and more as you go and POP!! Notice the crimps on the LED’s. put solder past on the crimp and flow solder on the joint (800 Degree soldering tip recommended). When the solder flows move on to the next LED…not the same one…let it cool. The white wire is + so stick straight pins in the connector and check on the car battery. It will work and if not, you have a cold solder joint so redo. There are no dynamic devices in this light so flow the solder and it will work. Seal the lens to the assembly by scraping RTV into the lens lip and the base when assembled. It will not take much so be cool. Good Luck Guys…I’ve done several this way…takes from start to finish about 45 minutes…just say cool and don’t force anything.
The LED third brake light is $140 brand new if you buy it on the internet. That's for a genuine part sold through Eeuroparts. They're located in Connecticut, not too far away from you :) Edit: I mean compared to me, I live in Florida, so really anything you order should just take a day or two in the mail.
+FrankTheCat As for the service theft alarm, replace the batteries in the alarm siren module. Simple soldering job, though I think on your 9-5 the alarm sirens are glued shut? The one on my '99 9-5 was held together with torx screws.
what are you talking about? all these light strips are designed to be cut. there is a line where to cut. there is no difference between 6 inch long or 25 feet long. they don't use more or less power and will mess up if you cut them.
Update... Has a 5 volt constant output on the positive wire which kept it dimmly lit all the time so I had to add a 12 volt relay to bypass that problem and now it's all good 👍
the new brake light should shut off the computer reminder because the computer only senses if current is passing through the light. if the light is burnt it wont pass voltage so the computer cannot recieve current so it trips the reminder
I've searched Walmart's website for that product to no avail. I'd appreciate a link from anyone that can help. Mazda wants $849 for a replacement high-level brake light for my MX5 NC. No way I'm paying them that.
I would just repair the strip. LED's are not hard to acquire and it is just a simple matter to unsolder the failed diodes, repair any failed traces and you're laughing.
That M7 part is a 4007 Diode but in a smd package. btw the letters and numbers near the parts tell you what they are: D = diode, R = resistor, C = capacitor, Q = transistor, integrated circuits are marked as either U or IC and you would have to google the number to know what it is. The numbers just count how many of that type of component is on the board, its kinda useless for the purposes of reverse engineering. honestly, I'm surprised they didn't silicone or coat that board up to make it more water resistant...
Great work-around for a common Saab problem! Thanks once again, Amesie! I think a new Saab light is around $70 US. Another problem with LED tail & brake lights in general is that they don't give off heat, so in a snowstorm your lights will cover over with snow.
Neither do incandescent bulbs of that low brightness either. I live in an area where it does snow sometimes in the winter and I have never owned a car with incandescent brake lights that could clear snow on their own This complaint in general is such a minor, infrequent occurrence that way too many people throw around as an easy way to try and make the more efficient and overall much better LED sound inferior. All the days that it's not snowing this issue is completely irrelevant
Thanks for the video. I am replacing a LED brake light on a Leer camper shell and it costs way to much. this will work great. thanks for your time.
NICE JOB young man! Excellent adapt and apply solution. Two thumbs up all the way. Thanks for sharing.
Brilliant ! Great thinking, our A3 third brakelight has failed today, going to look at fuses etc first but if the unit lights are 'dead' then it's 'plan B' - if those LED strips are available in the UK in red then guess what I'll be doing !! Thanks again Amesie !
A4 in the UK here with the same issue! Gotta be worth a go!
I love workarounds, good job!
Thank you sir! You're a life saver! Just replaced my wife's in her 2012 Focus and according to my purchase history it lasted a whole 41 days. So now I'm gonna try this and see how long it lasts... But for the cost I get two replacements for the price of one which is nice 🤔😉👍🤑
It does look a little smaller than the factory LED light bulb but it certainly is a much more reasonable deal for what those things cost. The other thing I was gonna suggest for something like that is to try a salvage yard. Not sure if that would be less or about the same as a new one since the LEDs are always more expensive in general
Dude you saved my life, I have a recent 2012 Subaru Forester that keeps blowing the leds in the back...... who knows whats going out there. But this will work, now i have to find them in Australia.
Your a genius Gump, absolute genius!
Congratulations. Great work. I am glad the LED is so bright. Looks legit. :-)
I made my own from LEDs for the wing when I added it. The original was inside the back window and it was so dim I can't imagine how it passed DOT for production. 91 Integra 4dr. Lighting sux in general. I may upgrade the tails and cluster lights as well.
great video Sir.got same issue on audi one diode is burned out.will try this but am sure there will be a need for some resistors.
Sweet fix I'm glad the warming went off on the dash that's awesome . Love the videos
I don't think that mystery chip had anything to do with the warning system, there was no additional wire for it to communicate on. The alarm is very possibly based on sensing current.
Excellent! .... Believe or not, You gave me a good idea to my 08 Honda CR-V ..and It works!
You. Rule. Now I have an 06 passat with a bad 3rd light on it. I just might try it. Thanks for the help.
if you use a small flashlight slide it a long the circuit board you will see the crack or cracks in the copper film then use the finest sandpaper to clean up the copper then solder it and it's fixed.
Or apply power to the input and use the meter to follow it along the board until it disappears.
My thought too it can be repaired...but the replacement idea is an alternative too
"Damnit. Please don't be the third brake light. DAMNIT." lol....
I replaced the bulbs in my wife's third brake light, had no idea that 1) it was just regular W5W bulbs (t10 style, like 168s), I always thought it was an LED strip from factory, I was pleasantly surprised. It's a 9-3 convertible.
You can get 20' rolls of these on Amazon for like 15 bucks. Great fix
About $5 from Gearbest.com, a Chinese supplier.
You did a good job bro....we need more video like that .....👍
nice! I hadn't even thought of that, but I may end up doing similar to add a third brake light to my Sonett v4
Great soldering technique. It always takes me ten times as long to do simple stuff like that......
you don't know how to solder......
Great video! Can't wait to seeore videos just like it!
One question im solder wires from led 12V white stripe to the original wires from car conector and my third light wont work there is no enough resistance then I put some T10 light between wires and led light work properly. I tried with 1k ohm resistor light won't work again. Can somebody please can help?
Good video! It’s obvious you know your stuff! Thanks for sharing!
Maybe try a bit of switch cleaner or clean away corrosion and re-solder if required sometimes if not too much corrosion it will work
Great cheap fix. I like those kind.
Doing this tomorrow! Great video! 👏👏👏
Good video, but personally i would used the multimeter to find out what failed in the circuitboard and then jumper the track that failed they are mounted in 4 in paralell and 4 in series.
That circuitboard looks almost like the GM version for the Opel/Vauhall/GM Astras the LEDs are "Piranha" types 4pin 2 anodes and 2 cathodes easy to desolder and replace them.
Then put some clearcoat on the pcb to protect it from moisture.
So if you have a failed 3rd brakelight take the multimeter and put it in diode mode then measure each "led" and find which ones failed, they can be purchased from almost any electronic
store.
And Amesie, look into COB versions of the led modules on ebay they are very bright my plans are to replace my 3rd witch such and then put a reversing camera in the middle :)
Keep the good work up !
Hmmmm I have fixed many LED style break lights that have had water ingress most of the time it is an easy fix either broken tracks or over heated current limit Resistor usually less time that the mucking around doing a bodge job.
I have a 03 Buick Rendezvous. the third break light is out. thought. about going that route. But I found one for 25bucks. But we had same idea.
Wow you got off east just having to remove 3 screws, the 3rd brake light on my Tahoe is sealed shut!
yup I replaced it once with the oem GM one at over 100.00! They only last about 5 years. This time I went for the Dorman one at 50.00. We'll se how long it last on my 06 Yukon.
Hi…where did you purchase the Flex light kit? Thanks
Brilliant! I see tons of CHMSL's that are out.
Informative, and fun to watch Well done!
Good job! I’m trying this on my 2013 sorento, it’ll save me 80 bucks!
Going to try this on my 2012 Captiva tomorrow
i would bet that light could be fixed with some wire and solder to bypass messed up traces. the led themselves should be alright still i would think.
I tried that but it still wouldn't light up.
Excellent video and money saver
Service theft alarm means the alarm module's lithium batteries have finally failed. They're located behind the fender lining on the driver's side front wheel well. Here's a link to a page on how to get that bad boy out:
www.thesaabsite.com/faqs/9-5%20(9600)/FAQ--electrical-category--sid-unit-%22service-the-theft-alarm%22-warning.html?id=418
Platonoff provided these instructions, that guy is terrific, saved my butt more than once lol.
+Jesse Crandle Good to know, thanks!
+Amesie's Automotive Corner Remember to change both the capacitors and the batteries in the siren. If you don't want the siren at all, just disconnect it and then remove the siren function altogether with tech2. If you have a siren with bad batteries it will start the siren randomly (or always at 3AM in my experience! ;) )
Ian't the internet awesome. People like you can share knowledge instantly.
It's rare to find videos these days with comments like this, TH-cam use to be like this in the early days, I hope every video can have a nice comment section such as this
iLeetProductions My fans are some of the greatest internet users!
can you send me links to these light
Hello! Just curious on the voltage supplied to the LED. In the video shows that the voltage is just below 12V but the engine is not running. We all know when engine runs in the voltage will spike up to 14V+ right. Doesn't mean this will overvoltage the LED thus reducing its lifespan?
Good point.....and many folks with automatics sit with their foot on the brake in a traffic queue...... Maybe a good idea to put a resistance in the line.
Why did you cut shorter than the original one? Is the reason the next 2 screws on wing?
Excellent remedy, thank you for sharing.
This was a great cheap fix, but cheaper with more choices would have been ebay... Still, 17 buck and right now is pretty good. You might have been able to fix the traces too, but this fix is going to work for a good while I'm sure.
A nice idea has been successful with chevy TrailBlazer 2002 -2009 👍🇯🇴
Was SAAB ever connected to BMW? The display warning for the light failure has many details trademark of a BMW. Thanks.
Pibbles 'n Bits no
thanks.
Very interesting video - thank you.
Sweet fix!
Fucking Mad Scientist. My 3rd tailgate led on trailblazer went out an i was thinkin the same shit. U r the man. Keep up the innovative thinking!
96 DISLIKES? This guy did an awesome job
i would repair that board any time
Awesome video it was more than helpful
Great fix, but it's a little bit to short, it doesn't light the whole glas.
+Daniel28021991
I think the original didn't light the full length of the plastic either. The new LED strip was almost the same length, certainly less than 1" shorter.
Automotive question, although not related to this video...
Has any mechanic reading this ever heard of converting a car's hood from lift strut to prop rod? I have a 98 CVPI and am starting to resent the fact I need to replace them every couple years despite the hood almost always being shut.
Admittedly, a new pair of lift supports isn't the most expensive investment, but I'd rather avoid the hassle and have something that will most likely outlive the car.
Nice job.
Nice work man, I'll do exacly like you did thank you st.
Great fix Amesie.
Well done
Make new PCB, resolder old LEDs, make solder points waterproof and put everything back together. Or you can jump wire the old PCB - either way this repair would have costed less than 20 bucks.
+Tomas Sabalas Actually I tried to jump the rusted out paths months ago but it still was a no go.
@@AmesiesCorner Did you check the continuity for each of the diodes as well?
lol $20 part $200 labor! Great work man, smart thinking!
sir your voice like IRON MAN
You don’t have to replace the light assembly…the problem is
the crimps on the LED’s. This assembly
had no dynamic parts so the issue is the connections and crimps always give it
up over time.
Force a blade screw drive in the seam of the light and give
a small pry all aroung the lens going around and around prying more and more as
you go and POP!!
Notice the crimps on the LED’s. put solder past on the crimp and flow solder
on the joint (800 Degree soldering tip recommended). When the solder flows move on to the next LED…not
the same one…let it cool.
The white wire is + so stick straight pins in the connector
and check on the car battery. It will
work and if not, you have a cold solder joint so redo. There are no dynamic devices in this light so
flow the solder and it will work.
Seal the lens to the assembly by scraping RTV into the lens
lip and the base when assembled. It will
not take much so be cool.
Good Luck Guys…I’ve done several this way…takes from start
to finish about 45 minutes…just say cool and don’t force anything.
The LED third brake light is $140 brand new if you buy it on the internet. That's for a genuine part sold through Eeuroparts. They're located in Connecticut, not too far away from you :)
Edit: I mean compared to me, I live in Florida, so really anything you order should just take a day or two in the mail.
Hahahah, when I got my 9-5 the third brake light was burnt out from moisture getting in there. I ended up getting a good used one for $20.
+FrankTheCat As for the service theft alarm, replace the batteries in the alarm siren module. Simple soldering job, though I think on your 9-5 the alarm sirens are glued shut? The one on my '99 9-5 was held together with torx screws.
Had the same idea, however my Mazda Premacy is fully sealed! Bugger! Tks anyway!
sure you fixed it already but you can open them. the one on the mazda5 i have is too but can get it opened.
the led will not last as long because you cut piece off now the resistors have to work much harder to control the voltage spike
what are you talking about? all these light strips are designed to be cut. there is a line where to cut. there is no difference between 6 inch long or 25 feet long. they don't use more or less power and will mess up if you cut them.
Update... Has a 5 volt constant output on the positive wire which kept it dimmly lit all the time so I had to add a 12 volt relay to bypass that problem and now it's all good 👍
the new brake light should shut off the computer reminder because the computer only senses if current is passing through the light. if the light is burnt it wont pass voltage so the computer cannot recieve current so it trips the reminder
I've searched Walmart's website for that product to no avail. I'd appreciate a link from anyone that can help.
Mazda wants $849 for a replacement high-level brake light for my MX5 NC. No way I'm paying them that.
Good idea
I would just repair the strip. LED's are not hard to acquire and it is just a simple matter to unsolder the failed diodes, repair any failed traces and you're laughing.
good fix although not in love with the open flame against the cables.
That M7 part is a 4007 Diode but in a smd package. btw the letters and numbers near the parts tell you what they are: D = diode, R = resistor, C = capacitor, Q = transistor, integrated circuits are marked as either U or IC and you would have to google the number to know what it is. The numbers just count how many of that type of component is on the board, its kinda useless for the purposes of reverse engineering.
honestly, I'm surprised they didn't silicone or coat that board up to make it more water resistant...
LEDs: good for 50,000 hours. Badly engineered cheap PCB board: 5 years max.
awesome
17 dollars plus your 20 for doing it 37 bucks
unless you charged 8.50 as you only used 1 plus your 28.50
love to watch ya...great
So.. new light is weaker, shorter, less reliable, illegal and more expensive than just repairing the original board. Where's the point?
You just cooked all the wire insulation with a torch! LAMO. Dude, all you need is a lighter for shrinktube. lol
How come the did not
Find. An easier way to replace it New ingénieur techts my ass.
1st.
Informative, and fun to watch Well done!