I've got a hewing ax hanging in my shop that I've been waiting to rehang on a short bent handle. You just convinced me to quit waiting and take my felling ax to some timber, Tim. Really looking forward to following along in this series.
Hewing is worth doing. There are a lot of hewing styles that use double bevel axes vs single ones. So if you are not trying to recreate a specific look with the tool marks for historical accuracy or something, there's no reason not to just start using the axe you've got.
Great overall video. How long should a tree have been felled (naturally or by man) before you hew it? Thanks again for taking the time to make the video.
Typically you hew when the wood is still green, so you can start hewing as soon as the tree falls. You can still hew dry logs but it isn't the usual way.
@@oxbowfarm5803 is there a certain amount of time that the wood should be seasoned, or a moisture level that should be reached before using the timber?
@@jerrywhidby. I would say that depends on what your use will be if your timber framing they would build it wet and as it dries and shrinks all the Mortice tennon dowel joints become tighter if tou plan in making furniture then a dry "stable" material is what you would prefer as most of the "movement" has taken place save the expansion and contration of the season.
Really enjoyed all the hewing videos. Glad I don't need a broad axe. I am looking for a Jersey pattern with a wide bit. Is that a True Temper you used on this video ? Thanks
Have you watched any mr chikadee? - i enjoy his videos - but i agree that small scale square timber with heart center is ideal to be home worked, ive only done a small amount but have a fuill project ligned up for it. Looking foward to your new series :D
I have watched a few of his videos. I have one of them on my hewing playlist. IMO two of the best hewing channels on the YT right now are onsek and Hantverkslaboratoriet althought they are not just about hewing.
Any comments on selecting logs for hewing? I’ve got lots of large trees already on the ground for some time now. Everything I see advises to hew as soon as it’s on the ground. I’m just starting out, so I imagine for my first few using year old dead trees will be good to practice on.
It is easier to hew wood when it is green, but it is perfectly possible to hew dead logs, if they are dead but still fairly wet then there isn't really much difference from hewing green logs.
Thanks terry. Hope its useful. If you like hewing videos I can recommend checking out some of the guys on my Hewing playlist, especially onsek and hantverkslaboratoriet.
It is sometimes necessary to score a second time, but it doesn't really matter what direction since the only purpose is to sever the fibers so you can take controlled chips instead of trapping your axe in the log. The direction and angle of the scoring cut is more about personal preference and how smooth you need the finished surface to be.
I sharpen freehand and have never bothered to measure my grinds. Thats more of a knife-world/bushcraft kind of thing. That said, if I had to guess, I don't think I have an axe that would qualify as 'splitting grind' , which I assume is more obtuse angle?
It really depends on the conditions. Its good to try and keep the logs clean or to bark them off if they are covered in mud, mud dulls your edge really fast. It also is really wise to mound all the chips directly under the log so you hit chips instead of soil so if you miss while hewing the axe hits chips instead of rocks and dirt. Green wood is not that abrasive to an axe, the edge geometry is really durable, so if you can avoid abrasive mud and grit on the log you can go a long time between sharpenings.
Just realized I’ve never actually seen a working ox, now that’s cool!
Have you tried using a sharp shooter shovel (aka drain spade) to strip bark?
Excellent video
I've got a hewing ax hanging in my shop that I've been waiting to rehang on a short bent handle. You just convinced me to quit waiting and take my felling ax to some timber, Tim. Really looking forward to following along in this series.
Hewing is worth doing. There are a lot of hewing styles that use double bevel axes vs single ones. So if you are not trying to recreate a specific look with the tool marks for historical accuracy or something, there's no reason not to just start using the axe you've got.
Great video, Tim. I can't wait for more. Thanks.
New subscriber. Looking to hew some logs soon. Appreciate your video and I'll watch the rest of the Hewing playlist.
I live in the Monroe/Duvall area near you and I hew my own beams, and I would come out and hew with you!
Boom! That's exactly what I needed. Thanks
No problem Mike.
Amazing work.
Well done! Good to see Star helping - that's cool.
Thanks, that's why this is Oxbow Farm :)
Great overall video. How long should a tree have been felled (naturally or by man) before you hew it? Thanks again for taking the time to make the video.
Typically you hew when the wood is still green, so you can start hewing as soon as the tree falls. You can still hew dry logs but it isn't the usual way.
@@oxbowfarm5803 is there a certain amount of time that the wood should be seasoned, or a moisture level that should be reached before using the timber?
@@jerrywhidby. I would say that depends on what your use will be if your timber framing they would build it wet and as it dries and shrinks all the Mortice tennon dowel joints become tighter if tou plan in making furniture then a dry "stable" material is what you would prefer as most of the "movement" has taken place save the expansion and contration of the season.
I had to laugh when you said you bought the farm. But you are standing there working hard and talking to us.
Really enjoyed all the hewing videos. Glad I don't need a broad axe. I am looking for a Jersey pattern with a wide bit. Is that a True Temper you used on this video ? Thanks
thats a sharp axe!
Have you watched any mr chikadee? - i enjoy his videos - but i agree that small scale square timber with heart center is ideal to be home worked, ive only done a small amount but have a fuill project ligned up for it. Looking foward to your new series :D
I have watched a few of his videos. I have one of them on my hewing playlist. IMO two of the best hewing channels on the YT right now are onsek and Hantverkslaboratoriet althought they are not just about hewing.
thanks for adding those as i did not know of thier existance - so theres a few more hours lost !
Any comments on selecting logs for hewing? I’ve got lots of large trees already on the ground for some time now. Everything I see advises to hew as soon as it’s on the ground. I’m just starting out, so I imagine for my first few using year old dead trees will be good to practice on.
It is easier to hew wood when it is green, but it is perfectly possible to hew dead logs, if they are dead but still fairly wet then there isn't really much difference from hewing green logs.
Pine and other conifers are the easiest to hew bard woods or woods that have a twist are a little more difficult as the axe wants to follow the grain.
nice job and hi from maine
Thanks terry. Hope its useful. If you like hewing videos I can recommend checking out some of the guys on my Hewing playlist, especially onsek and hantverkslaboratoriet.
ok I will look
Very informative and practical video, thanks 👍
Its like Meditation doing that all day
Would you ever score a 2nd time going the opposite direction of the 1st time?
It is sometimes necessary to score a second time, but it doesn't really matter what direction since the only purpose is to sever the fibers so you can take controlled chips instead of trapping your axe in the log. The direction and angle of the scoring cut is more about personal preference and how smooth you need the finished surface to be.
The axe your using, is it a faller grind or splitting grind? I'm wanting to try hewing after some snow melts and all I have is a felling grind axe.
I sharpen freehand and have never bothered to measure my grinds. Thats more of a knife-world/bushcraft kind of thing. That said, if I had to guess, I don't think I have an axe that would qualify as 'splitting grind' , which I assume is more obtuse angle?
How often do you resharpen your axe?
It really depends on the conditions. Its good to try and keep the logs clean or to bark them off if they are covered in mud, mud dulls your edge really fast. It also is really wise to mound all the chips directly under the log so you hit chips instead of soil so if you miss while hewing the axe hits chips instead of rocks and dirt. Green wood is not that abrasive to an axe, the edge geometry is really durable, so if you can avoid abrasive mud and grit on the log you can go a long time between sharpenings.
If you don't have an ox, you're not do'n it right!
Less talking more chopping