Things that often confuse people: (1) All Portland cement types have lime in it. All types of Portland, by their nature have around 2/3rd lime content. The percentage of lime is adjusted to formulate it's many applications and uses. Portland types vary in chemical composition, additives & ratios which produce around a dozen different types of Portland binders. (2) There is "Type S" Portland Cement and there is "Type S" Portland Masonry Mortar. Each does very different things. Portland cement is stronger that Portland mortar. (3) Engineers are usually unfamiliar with "regular Portland". But they are very familiar with "ordinary Portland" which also has 60-67% lime in it. (4) Type S is much stronger that Type N, but both have lime ingredients. Don't use Type N for faux rock usage here. (5) Don't go by the colors on the bags, blue writing versus orange, etc. Manufacturers change bag designs and colors all the time, in different markets around the U.S. & world. Even bag weights change from time to time. (6) All recipes can be tweaked, "3 parts Portland to 1 part lime" means you're just adding more lime to something that already has lime in it. // Like cooking, changing recipes is normal, to fit your construction need. But if your working for a sign-off, the project building engineer will expect to see your formula's ATSM testing data results, which may not exist or have been published yet. // I'm no expert. Just a DIYer. If you disagree or find an error here, please discuss and please add a source or citation so we can learn more. Fauxrocktraining is an awesome resource!! Wonderful videos!
This is the best video on concrete formulations! I make lightweight boulders with pearlite and S Portland, fiber and mesh. The interiors are filled with sturdy, packed hollow plastic waste bound with spray foam. I did not know how adding lime would give the mix better adhesion if the S type wasn’t available.
I cant Thank you enough for taking the time to explain so much of ur knowledge on Portland Lime Etc... I wrote 4 pages of notes. I got my wife on board now with your help. We gathering knowledge along with materials. This fall we going to be making Rocks for Waterfall in our Front yard. Again Thank You Sir Have a Blessed day.
Well, thank you Rob I appreciate your kind feedback and the fact you took your time to watch my video and take notes. Have fun with your project and blessings to you and yours.
As someone whom has been around construction most of my life, I REALLY appreciate that you EXPLAINED to the audience, that there are DIFFERENT mixes for DIFFERENT needs. There are newer "builders", that are mixing their own mixes(no problem), but they are NOT testing them, and using them for EVERYTHING. My first thought, when I saw them, was WHY would you build a WALL, without KNOWING what the compressive and tensile strength of your material is? I wonder how many buildings around the US are going to collapse, due to inferior mixes, or incorrect applications. With that said, keep up the good work.
I was a bricklayer contractor for 40 years now my body has gone south I would love to use light weight products to teach with ,,,bricks when used to forming a cavity the strength comes from that cavity filled with concrete steal never made sense to me that bricks and blocks in some applications where made so heavy in the main stream building in Australian
Lot's of cool information here. Way back in the 90s, I worked for a stonemason and he started this side hustle using a product called Stencil-Crete. I loved doing it because there was an element of creativity that was customizable and forgiving. Creating the faux rock and brick reminded me of the set builders I watched on a vacation to Universal Studios LA. My boss the owner was always wondering what the "Secret" ingredient in the mixture he was ordering that made this 1/8" coating stick to the concrete, and how it was so strong. I am a tinkerer, and I noticed a familiar smell when the mix was poured into our hopper gun. I went home and mixed Portland 1 with silica sand, and a mix of 5 parts water to 1 part latex paint. My boss laughed at me and told me to stop thinking and get back to work. Now 25-ish years later listening to you talk about resin additives, water-based "acrylic and latex", I now feel vindicated because I wasn't wrong, or at least I was very close to cracking the formula.
I have been here in California for many years now but planning on returning to my native state of Oklahoma. I was here when the first straw bale Workshop was presented and also attended a workshop in Hesperia California where super Adobe building got created I think. I like the idea of building Dome structures since they are both tornado and earthquake proof and would be appreciated in Oklahoma which has to deal with both. Thank you for putting out information regarding different formulations since most sites just deal with one kind.
The strongest mix I ever made was plaster of paris hydrated by hot hide glue. I suppose cement could be stronger still but I was already unable to break a 5 mm sheet by hand, and it sets in 10 minutes. Your video seems to indicate I should now aerate that hog. In middle ages they would use egg whites, rice starch was used in China wall.
Thanks very much for your feed… the old saying is, there’s a lot of ways to skin a cat. I suspect there’s no difference here and what we’re talking about. Thanks for watching my video.
38:07 Hello! I have just stumbled upon your channel and I'm so impressed! For a long time i have worked in a theater setting creating facades for short lived productions, however i am trying to create a memorial fountain for my late stepmom. Obviously a more durable facade. Thank you for a great and much needed education! I am now subscribed and closely following!
I'm looking to fill an 18 inch thick wall using slip forms to make a non flammable insulating mass. The only structural function is to hang onto the 2 inches of stucco on the outside.
Awesome Addition of information to this previous video !!! Always love to hear your point of view for different products and methods within the industry. In my eyes, You are one of the Pioneers that has definitely experimented, tried and tested so many different products and methods over the years, which in my opinion has allowed you to become one of the top teachers in the industry, and I for one am grateful that you continue to share your knowledge with others in the community, so we can all continue have the opportunity to gain more knowledge as well as have a better understanding in what this field is about, in order to become better Craftsmen ourselves within this Trade... Thanks For Sharing !!!
Thanks, that was a lot of info. I have been wanting to experiment with aircrete and or styro-aircrete but haven't done anything yet. You've given me a lot to think about. I recently saw on wikipedia that a commonly used binder on the great wall of China was rice! Any comments on that?
Thanks for the positive feedback. I really appreciate you watching my video. I’ve never tried rice in my cement mixtures, so I really couldn’t comment.
Thank you for all these usefull informations. You mentioned CaCl2 as an additive for reducing water. What ratio would you prefer? Is it also working with aircrete?
Thank you for your positive feedback. I really appreciate watching my video. Not sure what you meant with the attitude for reducing water ??? I have worked with air in the past, but I’m not very fond of it and see no benefit in using it generally speaking, obviously I keep the tool in my toolbox if I need it, but I rarely bring it out.
Great video very informative. Have you ever heard of Bio-Styrene? Watched something years ago and they took small plastic balls and coated them then positive charged and negative charged. Mixed with concrete and as it settled made a perfect light weight mix.
Thank you very much for the feedback. I really appreciate you taking the time to watch my video. I did some work early on in my career with some gypsum and I didn’t really see anything worth pursuing .
Sorry… Thanks for letting me know. I put it in the description area as well as below. Link for bagging styrofoam mixtures Unbelievable styrofoam cement mixtures th-cam.com/video/pJ-5nFkOJAU/w-d-xo.html
I have an idea for a faux rick siding application. I saved boulders for years and I am maing molds of those surfaces 1.5 inches deep. I want to coat the form with a finished material then a webbing with attachment points then fill the larger void with styrocrete. I can screw them on as randomly as a mason would set stone and fill the mortar lines. My questiona are all about formulation for sure. Im good with coloring and finish but for surface strength I need one formula and for applying the inner webbing and attachmant wires I need one the will be strong light and marry the styricrete to the surface material in a monolithic way. I know I can purchase stuff like this but I dont want the same thing with the same look and I want to reuse styrofoam. Also is there a cleaner cement like wood ash cement that is greener? Are there pros and cons? Ok Ill call and get educated lol. Great video for so many people.
Well being married for 43 years, I will understand “Honey do this” “Honey do that” I would suggest not allowing your wife to see any videos that might add to your honey do list…lol👍
What would you recommend for a basement floor that's always damp, existing concrete disintegrating (did get a french drain, but because the way the shale is layered, there is still some hydro pressure) I was thinking a 4mil plastic layer with 4" pour on top. But I think i should ask your advice first. Thanks in advance!
I’m always adamant about getting rid of the water not just trying to cover it up. there’s gotta be some sort of a way you can make a sump drainage contingency to make this go away. Thanks for watching.
@@fauxrock I wish! There is a 2 inch deep by 2 in wide grooves that goes around the perimeter of the basement, it's there to collect the water and bring it to the low corner where there is a pump. But the fact that the floor is always wet and I can't really put anything on it and I could never finish the basement you know sheetrock ,walls, it would never work! Also it causes whatever concrete that's there to disintegrate in short order. With my plan to put a layer of plastic down like what should have been done when the house was built, I intend to leave the plastic open on the perimeter to the same notch where I would put some PVC, not a Leachfield pipe, maybe a 1-in pipe with some holes drilled in it, same concept. Basically redirect the water to the perimeter to get drained. I really don't like it the way it is now, reminds me of living on a boat with a bilge pump. Do you think 4 mil thick plastic would be enough?, do you think 2 in of concrete on top of it would be enough? If I fail completely what formulation of concrete could withstand the constant intrusion of water?
The system you now have in place is gathering the water after it goes through the slab… the way I see it you’ve got to collect the water from well below this lab so that it never has a chance to get up into the slab. Ultimately that means demoing out the original slab creating a drain fill. That’s a good foot down below a dry gravel bed evacuating the water out by means of having a float system that whenever the water raises up to the height of the pump, it turns on.
@@fauxrock I actually think there was one or two of those in the past but they have filed up with the sand of disintegrating concrete leaving only the outline of a pipe at ground level. (There were documents for a basement sump pump in the paperwork I got when I bought the house, but I was never able to find it) I am retired/disabled and can't afford even a small fraction of the labor cost so I have to be able to do it myself. I'm barely able to collect the concrete! Do you think a shallow groove a few inches deep with a small PVC (with holes drilled) from the center of the room to the low point would do sufficiently more than a plastic sheet to be worth attempting? I know it won't be as good as the well you describe, but if you say it's 2x as good as the plastic sheet alone even if ½ as good as the well , that might be my best bet for what Im able to accomplish. Fortunately the disintegrating concrete is pretty soft. Digging A few inch trench in that would be lot easier than feet of hard shale. What mix do you recommend for the actual floor, for best hydrolic properties? Or don't you see any benefit over standard premix?
@@fauxrock more general question, what do you think about spraying concrete with sodium silicate during the curing process? Do you think that actually makes it harder or more waterproof?
I am not a big fan of latex being added into cement, nor am I a big fan of air Crete… But that’s not to say that you can’t use it. I’m just not interested based on my experiences. Thanks for watching my video
Aircrete additives in concrete mixes with stone agregate Makes for better frost resistance forming micro bubbles for ice "freezing pressure "handling , but when overdosing the air adive concrete get weak doe . Important to keep the Water cement ratio at at a minimum. On formes with closed roof areas lower than the fill level the cement air mix may fill the top of these areas, making the surface weak. The heavier stuff would Layer below. I buy foam agents concentrate and platisticers concentrate, from my local concrete supplier. You really have to be careful With the foaming agent ,it can mess up your concrete bad ,if you slip up on the recipe.
Just to clarify, we want an S type Cement, which already has the lime and Portland mixed together the proper ratio. if you don’t have S type Cement, then you can make it by taking one part of lime to three parts of Portland Cement. From there you can mix 1 part of your S type Cement to 3 parts of the styrofoam beads mixed with enough water to make it workable.
I don’t like to speak badly about anybody and their efforts… I have made it very plain in my TH-cam videos regarding Styrofoam mixtures… my philosophy is: “to each his own”
I have an unlimited supply of Balsa wood (project is in the Amazon jungle where it grows as a weed. I am about to try chipped balsa wood instead of EPS. I wonder what anyone thinks of this.
Cheers Bro! Great info. I produce high quality low cost FLG. Graphene. If you add 1% to the mix you can expect approx 50% more strength and thermal and heat resistance. 400x more water resistant .Let me know if you want some to test. I have several ideas for lego type lightweight panels. When its added to building foam it becomes 5x or more harder. One could mass produce panels ,boats, drones etc,..
I was introduced to graphene by Robert Murray Smith in England and know a little bit about it but not up on latest developments. I am interested in building Dome structures and appreciate your bringing graphene back to m i n d. Have we got to the point where there is such a thing as graphene sheets which could be added for defensive purposes?
There are so many ingredients that we can formulate into mixes. It’s literally endless, but at the same time, there is some preferential formulations I would rather use.
Adding residents are always a option. One can pursue I’ve done it in the past, and there are performance characteristics that are enhanced by doing so each application has its own considerations, and that usually dictates what we mix and apply.
You're a genius! I enjoyed talking to you very much and I've now learned so much from this video! When we start running at these projects in Alaska we look forward to having you up. Thank you for the video!
Thanks man. My buddies got all the parts together to build a shot create machine adapting off a morter shooting rig. Got to adapt larger hoses and up the compression he says. He wants it all 9n a trailer and has a 120 gallon compressor he's adding into the mix. He's a stable genius when it comes to engineering and fabrication...not me so I'll help him where I can. One of the plans is to do spray in place domes to be used as biodigesters. Me...I just want to shoot some concrete after geeking out on all your skills and videos. Serious about having you up if we can see daylight on these projects and get em going. Be fun to do some rock molding too...can sprayed concrete be molded out on its own or does a guy have to make panels and attach the molded concrete to the spray?
We had to put concrete dreams on hold, ended up buying and am in the midst of remodeling this 1500 sqft cabin. The old boy who we got it from had floated the wooden first floor with concrete...and not a very neat job. Demoing it is not an option as we'd just be tearing up the wood floor underneath it in the process of banging it all out. So I thought I might run pex over it and float it again with some self leveling that I have on hand. Its painted so I'm of two minds...roughing up and or completely removing the paint in order to get the new coat to adhere...or not worry about it because the adhered pex might be enough to give it durable substructure to stay adhered. If I COULD make one of those two ideas work I was thinking I might be able to "stamp" it with a rubber form like the ones you've demonstrated to give the floor a nice pattern rather than going further and setting tiles over it all. Any thoughts?
Finally finally finally AN INTELLIGENT PERSON ON youtube!!! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. I WAS CONVINCED THE WHOLE WORLD HAD GONE RETARDED!! What a pleasure to hear you speak.
I am considering to make a portable firepit. For that I'd need some light weight concrete so it can be rolled on wheels. I am just an average Joe without any particular skills and with no big budget nor time to experiment a lot. What would be your formula to approach such a task? Should be sturdy enough to not to fall apart when moving around but as light as possible. And also should withstand heat of fire. I researched what type of concrete I should use but even if I find something they never show/tell how it holds up. I was thinking to make the base solid concrete then build the walls from lightweight, but not sure on the longevity of that. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Well, cement mixers, in general aren’t good for a high heat applications even more so the Styrofoam Max would not be a good candidate Mixture to utilize in that endeavor. Usually clay formations like fire bricks for instance, or what are lined into a fire pit area.
Perhaps I would use galvanized electrical tubing for the frame if you can weld because it's light weight then coat it with concrete bonding adhesive then use a Perlite, Portland and acrylic fortifier mix for the bulk form encasing the metal frame. Then for the thin skin coat maybe a fire brick mortar
@@captainamazing1356 thank you, that sounds great! So if I just have a skin coat it should do the trick. It seems I have to dust off my age old project idea and get into it :)
@@gabbor2904 I personally haven't used fire brick mortar but I don't see why it wouldn't work. You may want to add fibers to the fire brick mortar skin coat. I use what my local concrete supplier calls Stealth Fibers because they are very fine and you can torch any strands that stick out of the surface. You may also want to add some acrylic fortifier to that as well
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Things that often confuse people: (1) All Portland cement types have lime in it. All types of Portland, by their nature have around 2/3rd lime content. The percentage of lime is adjusted to formulate it's many applications and uses. Portland types vary in chemical composition, additives & ratios which produce around a dozen different types of Portland binders. (2) There is "Type S" Portland Cement and there is "Type S" Portland Masonry Mortar. Each does very different things. Portland cement is stronger that Portland mortar. (3) Engineers are usually unfamiliar with "regular Portland". But they are very familiar with "ordinary Portland" which also has 60-67% lime in it. (4) Type S is much stronger that Type N, but both have lime ingredients. Don't use Type N for faux rock usage here. (5) Don't go by the colors on the bags, blue writing versus orange, etc. Manufacturers change bag designs and colors all the time, in different markets around the U.S. & world. Even bag weights change from time to time. (6) All recipes can be tweaked, "3 parts Portland to 1 part lime" means you're just adding more lime to something that already has lime in it. // Like cooking, changing recipes is normal, to fit your construction need. But if your working for a sign-off, the project building engineer will expect to see your formula's ATSM testing data results, which may not exist or have been published yet. // I'm no expert. Just a DIYer. If you disagree or find an error here, please discuss and please add a source or citation so we can learn more. Fauxrocktraining is an awesome resource!! Wonderful videos!
Well thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate you watching my video.
This is the best video on concrete formulations!
I make lightweight boulders with pearlite and S Portland, fiber and mesh. The interiors are filled with sturdy, packed hollow plastic waste bound with spray foam.
I did not know how adding lime would give the mix better adhesion if the S type wasn’t available.
Totally cool…Thanks I really appreciate you providing positive feedback and taking your time to watch my video
I cant Thank you enough for taking the time to explain so much of ur knowledge on Portland Lime Etc... I wrote 4 pages of notes. I got my wife on board now with your help. We gathering knowledge along with materials. This fall we going to be making Rocks for Waterfall in our Front yard. Again Thank You Sir Have a Blessed day.
Well, thank you Rob I appreciate your kind feedback and the fact you took your time to watch my video and take notes. Have fun with your project and blessings to you and yours.
Ive been doing concrete since 1995. Just wanna say " great job"! Your a good teacher.
Well, thank you for the kind feedback Joel… I do appreciate you taking your time to watch my video.
As someone whom has been around construction most of my life, I REALLY appreciate that you EXPLAINED to the audience, that there are DIFFERENT mixes for DIFFERENT needs. There are newer "builders", that are mixing their own mixes(no problem), but they are NOT testing them, and using them for EVERYTHING. My first thought, when I saw them, was WHY would you build a WALL, without KNOWING what the compressive and tensile strength of your material is? I wonder how many buildings around the US are going to collapse, due to inferior mixes, or incorrect applications.
With that said, keep up the good work.
Thanks for the positive feedback. I really appreciate you taking your time to watch my video.
I was a bricklayer contractor for 40 years now my body has gone south I would love to use light weight products to teach with ,,,bricks when used to forming a cavity the strength comes from that cavity filled with concrete steal never made sense to me that bricks and blocks in some applications where made so heavy in the main stream building in Australian
Well, thank you for your feedback. I do appreciate you taking your time to watch my video.
Lot's of cool information here. Way back in the 90s, I worked for a stonemason and he started this side hustle using a product called Stencil-Crete. I loved doing it because there was an element of creativity that was customizable and forgiving. Creating the faux rock and brick reminded me of the set builders I watched on a vacation to Universal Studios LA. My boss the owner was always wondering what the "Secret" ingredient in the mixture he was ordering that made this 1/8" coating stick to the concrete, and how it was so strong. I am a tinkerer, and I noticed a familiar smell when the mix was poured into our hopper gun. I went home and mixed Portland 1 with silica sand, and a mix of 5 parts water to 1 part latex paint. My boss laughed at me and told me to stop thinking and get back to work. Now 25-ish years later listening to you talk about resin additives, water-based "acrylic and latex", I now feel vindicated because I wasn't wrong, or at least I was very close to cracking the formula.
Thanks for the feedback, never stop tinkering… I appreciate you watching my video.
Thank you so much Sir for sharing so many great information based on your extensive experience of your professional life. You're the best.😍😍😍
Well, thank you very much for your kind feedback. I really appreciate you watching my video. Have a great day.
Excellent information! Thank you!
I very much appreciate you watching my video and providing positive feedback
I have been here in California for many years now but planning on returning to my native state of Oklahoma. I was here when the first straw bale Workshop was presented and also attended a workshop in Hesperia California where super Adobe building got created I think. I like the idea of building Dome structures since they are both tornado and earthquake proof and would be appreciated in Oklahoma which has to deal with both. Thank you for putting out information regarding different formulations since most sites just deal with one kind.
Thanks for your feedback. I really appreciate watching my video.
The strongest mix I ever made was plaster of paris hydrated by hot hide glue. I suppose cement could be stronger still but I was already unable to break a 5 mm sheet by hand, and it sets in 10 minutes. Your video seems to indicate I should now aerate that hog. In middle ages they would use egg whites, rice starch was used in China wall.
Thanks very much for your feed… the old saying is, there’s a lot of ways to skin a cat. I suspect there’s no difference here and what we’re talking about. Thanks for watching my video.
38:07 Hello! I have just stumbled upon your channel and I'm so impressed! For a long time i have worked in a theater setting creating facades for short lived productions, however i am trying to create a memorial fountain for my late stepmom. Obviously a more durable facade.
Thank you for a great and much needed education! I am now subscribed and closely following!
Thanks for the positive feedback. I appreciate you watching my video
Mortar is also important to avoid point loads between the layersof masonry units.
Correct Amando…
I'm looking to fill an 18 inch thick wall using slip forms to make a non flammable insulating mass. The only structural function is to hang onto the 2 inches of stucco on the outside.
I would use vermiculite or perlite instead of Styrofoam beads Styrofoam beads are flammable and melt at a very low temperature at 400°
Great videos , this one on the info side is really informative. Still Savin for the whole course , I’ll get there .
Thank you very much for the positive feedback… I really appreciate you taking your time to watch my video.
Awesome Addition of information to this previous video !!! Always love to hear your point of view for different products and methods within the industry. In my eyes, You are one of the Pioneers that has definitely experimented, tried and tested so many different products and methods over the years, which in my opinion has allowed you to become one of the top teachers in the industry, and I for one am grateful that you continue to share your knowledge with others in the community, so we can all continue have the opportunity to gain more knowledge as well as have a better understanding in what this field is about, in order to become better Craftsmen ourselves within this Trade...
Thanks For Sharing !!!
Thanks again Tarvin
Bless you brother
Blessings back at you sister… Thanks for watching my video.
Thanks, that was a lot of info. I have been wanting to experiment with aircrete and or styro-aircrete but haven't done anything yet. You've given me a lot to think about.
I recently saw on wikipedia that a commonly used binder on the great wall of China was rice! Any comments on that?
Thanks for the positive feedback. I really appreciate you watching my video.
I’ve never tried rice in my cement mixtures, so I really couldn’t comment.
Definitely liked and will use information provided, thankyou so much.
Thank you for the positive feedback. I really appreciate you watching my video.
Thank you for all these usefull informations.
You mentioned CaCl2 as an additive for reducing water.
What ratio would you prefer?
Is it also working with aircrete?
Thank you for your positive feedback. I really appreciate watching my video.
Not sure what you meant with the attitude for reducing water ??? I have worked with air in the past, but I’m not very fond of it and see no benefit in using it generally speaking, obviously I keep the tool in my toolbox if I need it, but I rarely bring it out.
Great video very informative. Have you ever heard of Bio-Styrene? Watched something years ago and they took small plastic balls and coated them then positive charged and negative charged. Mixed with concrete and as it settled made a perfect light weight mix.
Thank you…. Glad to be of service. I really appreciate you watching my video.
Great informative video. Thank you, greetings from Sweden!
Thanks for the positive feedback. I really appreciate you taking your time to watch my video.
You are very helpful, thank you so much. What are the aproxímate costs of those rocks?
Thank you for the positive feedback. I really appreciate you watching my video. The cost to make the rock is around $1.50 per sqft.
Ive seen in Australia and India using gypsum roughly 15:1 to portland which looks very strong...any thoughts or experience? Greatvideo by the way.👍
Thank you very much for the feedback. I really appreciate you taking the time to watch my video.
I did some work early on in my career with some gypsum and I didn’t really see anything worth pursuing .
Gypsum is so expensive here. It would cost you a fortune.
Mad respect. This video is gold.
Thank you for your positive feedback. I really appreciate you watch my video.
I dont see a link in the description to the video youre referring to with pre-bagging
Sorry… Thanks for letting me know. I put it in the description area as well as below.
Link for bagging styrofoam mixtures
Unbelievable styrofoam cement mixtures
th-cam.com/video/pJ-5nFkOJAU/w-d-xo.html
I have an idea for a faux rick siding application. I saved boulders for years and I am maing molds of those surfaces 1.5 inches deep. I want to coat the form with a finished material then a webbing with attachment points then fill the larger void with styrocrete. I can screw them on as randomly as a mason would set stone and fill the mortar lines. My questiona are all about formulation for sure. Im good with coloring and finish but for surface strength I need one formula and for applying the inner webbing and attachmant wires I need one the will be strong light and marry the styricrete to the surface material in a monolithic way. I know I can purchase stuff like this but I dont want the same thing with the same look and I want to reuse styrofoam. Also is there a cleaner cement like wood ash cement that is greener? Are there pros and cons? Ok Ill call and get educated lol. Great video for so many people.
It would be best to call me…971-237-2957
Awesome.👍
Your a wealth of knowledge sir.
Thankyou for sharing.
Much respect 👊🇦🇺
Thank you for your kind feed… I appreciate you watching my video
Well that's just great!! Now the wife will want me to build a castle and who knows what else. Lol
Well being married for 43 years, I will understand “Honey do this” “Honey do that”
I would suggest not allowing your wife to see any videos that might add to your honey do list…lol👍
Another great informative video!! Thank you!
Well, thank you Duane I do appreciate your positive feedback and the fact you took your time to watch my videos.
Thank you sharing. Be blessed
Thank you very much for your feedback. Blessings unto you as well. I really appreciate you watching my video.
You’ve got a good scientist brain!
Thank you very much for your positive feedback Rick. I appreciate you taking your time to watch my video.
What would you recommend for a basement floor that's always damp, existing concrete disintegrating (did get a french drain, but because the way the shale is layered, there is still some hydro pressure)
I was thinking a 4mil plastic layer with 4" pour on top. But I think i should ask your advice first.
Thanks in advance!
I’m always adamant about getting rid of the water not just trying to cover it up. there’s gotta be some sort of a way you can make a sump drainage contingency to make this go away. Thanks for watching.
@@fauxrock I wish!
There is a 2 inch deep by 2 in wide grooves that goes around the perimeter of the basement, it's there to collect the water and bring it to the low corner where there is a pump. But the fact that the floor is always wet and I can't really put anything on it and I could never finish the basement you know sheetrock ,walls, it would never work! Also it causes whatever concrete that's there to disintegrate in short order.
With my plan to put a layer of plastic down like what should have been done when the house was built,
I intend to leave the plastic open on the perimeter to the same notch where I would put some PVC, not a Leachfield pipe, maybe a 1-in pipe with some holes drilled in it, same concept. Basically redirect the water to the perimeter to get drained.
I really don't like it the way it is now, reminds me of living on a boat with a bilge pump.
Do you think 4 mil thick plastic would be enough?, do you think 2 in of concrete on top of it would be enough? If I fail completely what formulation of concrete could withstand the constant intrusion of water?
The system you now have in place is gathering the water after it goes through the slab… the way I see it you’ve got to collect the water from well below this lab so that it never has a chance to get up into the slab. Ultimately that means demoing out the original slab creating a drain fill. That’s a good foot down below a dry gravel bed evacuating the water out by means of having a float system that whenever the water raises up to the height of the pump, it turns on.
@@fauxrock I actually think there was one or two of those in the past but they have filed up with the sand of disintegrating concrete leaving only the outline of a pipe at ground level.
(There were documents for a basement sump pump in the paperwork I got when I bought the house, but I was never able to find it)
I am retired/disabled and can't afford even a small fraction of the labor cost so I have to be able to do it myself. I'm barely able to collect the concrete!
Do you think a shallow groove a few inches deep with a small PVC (with holes drilled) from the center of the room to the low point would do sufficiently more than a plastic sheet to be worth attempting? I know it won't be as good as the well you describe, but if you say it's 2x as good as the plastic sheet alone even if ½ as good as the well , that might be my best bet for what Im able to accomplish. Fortunately the disintegrating concrete is pretty soft. Digging A few inch trench in that would be lot easier than feet of hard shale.
What mix do you recommend for the actual floor, for best hydrolic properties? Or don't you see any benefit over standard premix?
@@fauxrock more general question, what do you think about spraying concrete with sodium silicate during the curing process? Do you think that actually makes it harder or more waterproof?
Cool Man, Thanks!
Well, thank you for watching my video and posting positive feedback.
What do you think of a latex cement coating on aircrete to add strength?
I am not a big fan of latex being added into cement, nor am I a big fan of air Crete… But that’s not to say that you can’t use it. I’m just not interested based on my experiences.
Thanks for watching my video
Aircrete additives in concrete mixes with stone agregate
Makes for better frost resistance forming micro bubbles for ice "freezing pressure "handling , but when overdosing the air adive concrete get weak doe .
Important to keep the
Water cement ratio at at a minimum. On formes with closed roof areas lower than the fill level the cement air mix may fill the top of these areas, making the surface weak. The heavier stuff would
Layer below. I buy foam agents concentrate and platisticers concentrate, from my local concrete supplier.
You really have to be careful
With the foaming agent ,it can mess up your concrete bad ,if you slip up on the recipe.
Good stuff for the viewers. Thanks
This video is excellent.
Thank you George I appreciate your feedback and the time you’ve taken and watching my video.
So by adding lime to the Portland at a 3:1 mix will this speed up the drying time or slow it down
Just to clarify, we want an S type Cement, which already has the lime and Portland mixed together the proper ratio. if you don’t have S type Cement, then you can make it by taking one part of lime to three parts of Portland Cement.
From there you can mix 1 part of your S type Cement to 3 parts of the styrofoam beads mixed with enough water to make it workable.
Very helpful. Thanks so much 🙂
Well, thank you I really appreciate your positive feedback and you taking the time to watch my video
How do you keep cardboard from collapsing?
Two ways… build it to be sturdy. Seal it with 100% acrylic bonding agent before applying any mix.
What we can use rigid polyurethane foam scrap
Well, we generally use the poly styrene scrap not the polyurethane
What is your opinion on this new "Abundacrete" made by Abundance Build?
I don’t like to speak badly about anybody and their efforts… I have made it very plain in my TH-cam videos regarding Styrofoam mixtures… my philosophy is: “to each his own”
I have an unlimited supply of Balsa wood (project is in the Amazon jungle where it grows as a weed. I am about to try chipped balsa wood instead of EPS. I wonder what anyone thinks of this.
Really don’t have any experience working with balsa wood.
Brilliant video!
👍👌👍
Cheers Bro! Great info. I produce high quality low cost FLG. Graphene. If you add 1% to the mix you can expect approx 50% more strength and thermal and heat resistance. 400x more water resistant .Let me know if you want some to test. I have several ideas for lego type lightweight panels. When its added to building foam it becomes 5x or more harder. One could mass produce panels ,boats, drones etc,..
Thanks for the feedback and the time in watching my video. Give me a call to discuss your product 971-237-2957
I was introduced to graphene by Robert Murray Smith in England and know a little bit about it but not up on latest developments. I am interested in building Dome structures and appreciate your bringing graphene back to m i n d. Have we got to the point where there is such a thing as graphene sheets which could be added for defensive purposes?
@@kathleenbrock2746 Nice small world Robert is my favourite YT channel
What about using Hydreated Lime, hourse hair and starafoame.
There are so many ingredients that we can formulate into mixes. It’s literally endless, but at the same time, there is some preferential formulations I would rather use.
How about adding a binder like PVA to the water mix?
Adding residents are always a option. One can pursue I’ve done it in the past, and there are performance characteristics that are enhanced by doing so each application has its own considerations, and that usually dictates what we mix and apply.
You're a genius! I enjoyed talking to you very much and I've now learned so much from this video! When we start running at these projects in Alaska we look forward to having you up. Thank you for the video!
Thanks for the positive feedback… I always appreciate the opportunity to serve. If you need some, just give me a holler.
Thanks man. My buddies got all the parts together to build a shot create machine adapting off a morter shooting rig. Got to adapt larger hoses and up the compression he says. He wants it all 9n a trailer and has a 120 gallon compressor he's adding into the mix. He's a stable genius when it comes to engineering and fabrication...not me so I'll help him where I can. One of the plans is to do spray in place domes to be used as biodigesters. Me...I just want to shoot some concrete after geeking out on all your skills and videos. Serious about having you up if we can see daylight on these projects and get em going. Be fun to do some rock molding too...can sprayed concrete be molded out on its own or does a guy have to make panels and attach the molded concrete to the spray?
Concrete can be casted in place… in other words it’s not having to be just panels
We had to put concrete dreams on hold, ended up buying and am in the midst of remodeling this 1500 sqft cabin. The old boy who we got it from had floated the wooden first floor with concrete...and not a very neat job. Demoing it is not an option as we'd just be tearing up the wood floor underneath it in the process of banging it all out. So I thought I might run pex over it and float it again with some self leveling that I have on hand. Its painted so I'm of two minds...roughing up and or completely removing the paint in order to get the new coat to adhere...or not worry about it because the adhered pex might be enough to give it durable substructure to stay adhered. If I COULD make one of those two ideas work I was thinking I might be able to "stamp" it with a rubber form like the ones you've demonstrated to give the floor a nice pattern rather than going further and setting tiles over it all. Any thoughts?
Trying to bond a new pour onto the old pour is preferable… I’d try to remove paint and clean it up do to bond the two together.
Finally finally finally AN INTELLIGENT PERSON ON youtube!!! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. I WAS CONVINCED THE WHOLE WORLD HAD GONE RETARDED!! What a pleasure to hear you speak.
Thanks for your kind feedback…I appreciate you watching my video.
I am considering to make a portable firepit. For that I'd need some light weight concrete so it can be rolled on wheels. I am just an average Joe without any particular skills and with no big budget nor time to experiment a lot. What would be your formula to approach such a task? Should be sturdy enough to not to fall apart when moving around but as light as possible. And also should withstand heat of fire. I researched what type of concrete I should use but even if I find something they never show/tell how it holds up. I was thinking to make the base solid concrete then build the walls from lightweight, but not sure on the longevity of that. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Well, cement mixers, in general aren’t good for a high heat applications even more so the Styrofoam Max would not be a good candidate Mixture to utilize in that endeavor. Usually clay formations like fire bricks for instance, or what are lined into a fire pit area.
Perhaps I would use galvanized electrical tubing for the frame if you can weld because it's light weight then coat it with concrete bonding adhesive then use a Perlite, Portland and acrylic fortifier mix for the bulk form encasing the metal frame. Then for the thin skin coat maybe a fire brick mortar
Now that’s a great idea.👌😃👌
@@captainamazing1356 thank you, that sounds great! So if I just have a skin coat it should do the trick. It seems I have to dust off my age old project idea and get into it :)
@@gabbor2904 I personally haven't used fire brick mortar but I don't see why it wouldn't work. You may want to add fibers to the fire brick mortar skin coat. I use what my local concrete supplier calls Stealth Fibers because they are very fine and you can torch any strands that stick out of the surface. You may also want to add some acrylic fortifier to that as well
🌍👍🤗thank you
Well, thank you again Adam IL. I appreciate you commenting and watching my video.