I bought this 642 bobcat skid steer in none running condition, in part one we found out it had low compression, so lets pull the engine, tear it down and see what happened.
I've been rewatching some of your old videos, yours is one of the few good channels left on TH-cam. No religion, no politics, and no shtick. Just me and Mustie wrenching on stuff.
I'd do a new set of rings, adjust the valves and slap it back in there. Test it out and see if it's got the power to do what you want and if not, sell it and look for one that hasn't had a heart transplant
The bores did look decent so all that remains with that blowby is the rings. If the block and head looks good it could be possible to revive. Just fix up all those half-assed linkage and wiring jobs and it should be much more reliable.
While the engine is out, you can check the amount of wear on the rear pump control mechanism that is operated by one of the hand stick controls. If you look to the left of the main input shaft you can see an adjustable sliding, lever/dowell contraption that wears out and is much easier to service now than later. (same as the front pump under the seat, operated by the other hand stick.) It's the little stubby steel dowel pin that wears out a flat spot and i think costs around 20 bucks from Bobcat.
@dubes5594 Absolutely yeah anything to do with an oil pump in a bobcat is gonna be super important, & great idea, a cheap fix, & a unique opportunity to fix a known problem. Well done! 👏👏👏👍
54:20 i was honestly surprised he didn’t just take the hone to it, put the tops of the pistons in the ultrasonic to pop the ring lose and put it all back together and run it 😂
He might even have freed the rings in place by pouring detergent, like Sea Foam, in the glow plug holes and soaking for a week. then it would probably just start right up with no engine removal or disassembly; and if not, try Restore ring sealant as well. All without even a head gasket.
That's what I'd do, Hone the bores (they don't appear to be wet liners which I think he was expecting) clean the pistons up and change the rings out for new ones then reassemble with a new head gasket
It looks like it was breathing its own exhaust. Cooling is important for those little Kabota’s. We’ve repurposed many of them they are easy and fun to play with.
Yeah with the amount of soot in the engine compartment, it looks like it was breathing it's own exhaust for some time. Would kind of be like us trying to survive by breathing our own farts. You probably wouldn't live long either!
Hi Mustie. I recommend Josh from Sleeperdude channel reach out to you, He bought a VW Beetle and I think he needs you're Expertise. I watch all your Videos. Told him you're the Man. Cheers.
I got in alot of trouble as a kid taking things apart...door knobs, alarm clocks ect. My dad finally locked up all the tools and yelled " You cant just go around breaking things !!!"
I try to avoid disassembly, and in this case I thin he could have freed the rings just by pouring detergent, like Sea Foam, into the cylinders and letting them soak for a week, with no engine removal or disassembly. Then maybe Restore ring sealer if still necessary. Unfortunately, I doubt he could roll start a hydraulic drive because if it was a gear box, I would say haul it up a mountain, roll it down and dump the clutch at almost the redline. I have certainly started old diesel Rabbits that way, and it might be a permanent solution after soaking the rings so you don't need that mountain every morning.
Definitely another excellent engine teardown episode of Darren figuring out what went wrong with lots of comedic banter. That alone is what keeps us subs craving a new Mustie1 episode. Plus how he talks to us as tho we are actually there. Can't wait to see what Darren comes up with to replace that engine.
You are one of the very few mechanics I have seen to hook two combination wrenches together to gain more leverage. Among my crowd we call that a "redneck breaker bar"
So it needs a ring job. Getting a set of rings and repairing the pistons would be cheapest. Then getting the kit you mentioned with pistons ready to go ($600) is ok as long as those pistons are guaranteed to fit and seal so you aren’t left with the same problem. What my thoughts are is (1) clean the whole thing out and (2) find an engine comparable to the original gas engine and just replace that diesel giving the machine a new lease on life. Looking forward to see what you do ! Paul
Probably could put a D1005 Kubota engine in it, they're around 26HP, the D662 that he pulled out of that Bobcat is only 19HP. So even a D922 which is 23HP would be a slight upgrade.
Coffee Mustie1 and Sunday morning is off to a excellent beginning. You did say it was a refer motor I say it was shot when installed. Them engines have thousands of hours on them before they are replaced. ✌️🙏💪 You're gonna wish you set valve clearances. They are 006 008 thousandths you said that they had 070 thousandths.
Good start to my Sunday, for sure. Whatever else you do on this project, if you clean out that pit from hell please show it !! If you plan on keeping it, you could just get it running, then slowly restore the rest.
I bet you could hone it, put rings in it, and it would live again. Those Kubotas are damn near indestructible. First thing I would do is try to get the rings out without hurting the pistons. Then you can cleanup the ring grooves and get them back to size with a real old skool tool a ring groove scraper or cleaner. Also pour some solvent into the ports and see if it leaks past the valves. If it does there is a valve job in your future. Even though the HP is less, the extra torque of a diesel might even things out a bit. However, your VW plan would be a lot more fun to watch.
True.. Quick recondition would work.. Doubtful if this Bob Cat will ever see continuous 80 HR, 52week, 365 day use. VW might be a bit high maintainence for this APP.
Dear Mustie1 👍👌👏 Well done again (video and work). 2) The Kubota engine interior looks surprisingly good. Therefore please kindly allow me to suggest that you simply measure the diameter of the cylinder bores. If still within the tolerances, I would just hone the cylinders. Then measure the pistons because maybe only new piston rings are necessary. Check and grind in the valves and check the springs respectively the complete cylinder head. Please also check the injectors etc.. Maybe you can get away with just 3 sets of piston rings, a complete gasket set and some modifications to the engine mounts (should be rubber). Even if you will not put it back into the Bobcat, this engine seems worth saving. Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards, luck and health in particular.
To be fair it did not look that bad, I'll bet a hone some new rings, head gasket and a dirty valve job it would run again. Also robot cantina might have a kabota 772 diesel spare soon
I was gonna say the same thing. All in all, nothing looked really bad. Definitely would want to measure bore wear to ensure a mostly straight cylinders, but I'm be tempted to do the same thing. Hone the bores, new rings, lap the valves, and slap it together. Idk maybe some valve guides/seals.
@@Frank-Thoresen I would say Mustie is not going to be pushing this machine anywhere near its limits. This thing is not worth a lot of money even if it were running with a bigger engine. All of the hydraulics probably need work too. An under-powered, but running machine is better than no machine.
I have found that taking an old cylinder pressure gauge adapter and set it up to a air regulator hooked to your compressor saves all the wonder out of compensation problems. 50 psi to the cylinder will let you if it's ring or valve blowby. It will also let you know if it's a head gasket.
I think it needs an air cooled Beetle engine! Surely the Bobcat and the Beetle engined plow/plough you just did will both fit on the trailer together, and make an excellent team for your VW meets? 💪
If the beetle engine can stay cool and have enough HP and torque then it would be an option. The other question is how much the fuel consumption is on the beetle engine compared with a Kobota diesel engine.
@@Frank-Thoresen yeah but, seriously, there's a big back door to pull ventilation through - add grilles if needed. In my own head, width might be the biggest restriction - those engines are wide. Still, Beetle BobCat would be super cool though? Fuel consumption wouldn't come into it - he'd only be running it for a few hours a year at the rate Mustie1 runs his rustorations.
Pittsburg years ago made a set of sockets like that for long threads with a ratchet handle that did just that -popped on the outside, although theirs only had one size on the sockets. I still have mine and it comes in handy once in a while when even a deep socket isn't enough. Wish I had bought the metric sizes as well as they stopped offering it quite some time ago.
Rebuild the engine with new rings and a hone then fit it in the generator to give maybe 10kw then fit the more powerful engine from the generator in the Bobcat. Depends what you expect to do with the generator - you want it working but at what peak output ?
thats not how any of that works, and even if it would work itd required alot of custom machined adapters, and an excessive amount of work, wouldnt make any sense makes far more sense to dive into the generator unit and try to repair it, either itll be a working unit he can sell, or if he runs into a generator or motor issue thatll answer his question on using that engine
@@kevinfoster1213I know this is way off topic but I had a friend that had hands that were terribly rough an huge cracks like I've never seen and that was the one thing that always come to mind there is no way any woman could enjoy that sorry @mustie1 for being off-topic in your comments
Judging from comments below, folks are divided as to whether the engine would do the job if running. I think just for content value it would be worth it do the minimal rebuild job (new rings and honing), reinstall it, and see how well it performs. Wouldn't cost much, and great content. Possible home run if it worked out just fine for your purposes. My two cents.
Two things to try - 1 - Take out the valve that looked different than the others to see if the seat is bad. That would determine the cost of repair versus exchange. 2 - Drop the heads of the pistons in a ultrasonic parts washer for an hour or six to see if the rings are still good without cracking them. Use a micrometer to measure them. There aren't any vertical scratches so they all should be good. With any luck, and a new gasket set, the engine would be as good as new. Don't conflate horsepower numbers of diesel and gas engines as the power output of each.
@@messenger8279 Show me the difference in torque ratings of the original gas engine and the replacement diesel engine and I'll agree with your point. There's no telling if the rest of the machine is any good to start throwing good money after bad. What makes you think that a different engine would be of a better quality than what's already being used? Mustie has an engine with stuck compression rings. Unstick them, check the valve seat, and throw it back together. At the minimum, you have an slightly underpowered machine that has a good engine for almost no additional cost. At that time you can upgrade the engine if needed.
The diesel's torque is probably even higher than the original gasoline engine, so I doubt that the diesel died because of regular stalling. Still, it is possible problem with the RPMs of the diesel. If everything in the Bobcat is made for a gasoline engine, probably for reaching a reasonable speed of operation, the diesel engine was working on max rpm constantly.
@@stans5270 I found this not sure if it helps but the Kubota is only 16 HP the original is 32 hp. The relationship of HP and torque is as follows. Is torque directly related to horsepower? Without going into too much technical detail, here's how you can calculate horsepower with a simple equation: Horsepower = Torque x RPM / 5,252 (where 5,252 is the conversion between lb-ft and horsepower). This means the two are closely linked so, often, higher horsepower means higher torque.28 June 2021
@@messenger8279 Where did you get those figures from? Your torque formula isn't valid for diesels. And it's not even valid for different gas engines. Show me the model number of this engine and where on the video it is shown.
I work as an engineer on ships. Checking the compression through the injectors is fine. It's unconventional but it is still in the cylinder as all diesel injectors are. My only recommendation was that you disconnect the fuel next time 😢. I was worried you would start a fire. Usually the pressure at the injector is high enough to seriously hurt yourself if you get body parts in the way. Not to mention the diesel is now atomized enough it could catch fire. Another reason to leave the fuel off. If youc ompression test it through the glow plugs the cylinder may fire it's charge of fuel which would be interesting to see it's effect on a tester 😮
There is a guy on YT who put a 719cc Kubota in a Saturn. He has several videos explaining how he got around the gvernor etc. Might be worth a watch (He later installed a turbo on it as well)
@robotcantina8957 is the channel - good call, I agree with you, a two minute conversation between these two would clear up a lot of questions. I certainly have enjoyed the saturn project
The kubota engine he put in is only about 18 hp, remember in the latest video where he is installing the predator 2 cylinder engine that is supposedly 22hp, Jimbo said the predator has more horsepower than the kubota and Mustie (Darren) said the original Ford engine was about 35-40 horsepower and the kubota D622E is under powered, so the D722 in the Saturn will also be underpowered for the bobcat. Why waste your time with some underpowered POS kubota? Put a proper 45-50 hp gasoline or diesel engine in it and then have a very useful piece of machinery. A small car engine would work.
@@kd5inm I mean, yeah a D622 isn't terribly powerful, but it's not a bad engine for what it is. Kubota engines are very sturdy for what they are, and something appropriately sized for this skid steer would be better.
@@tsp159 I used to work for a kubota tractor dealer as a mechanic. After working on those tractors and engines I am not impressed with the durability or build quality of their equipment. Kubota and Yanmar are both from Osaka Japan but I believe Yanmar is much better made in both engines and tractors and power equipment. Yanmar engines have sleeved cylinders and a 10 year warranty on their powertrain in their tractors. I have an older yanmar tractor that is 44 years old and its still running strong.
@@kd5inm he has a 20KW kubota engine there but wasnt sure how to make the governor work.. he could get some info in regards to that if the head on the genset unit is fried
Man that flying piston got me good. Thanks for the comedy. Edit: I agree that another engine might be more well suited. Still would be fun to see this one running (outside of it) if it's salvagable, but it might not be very economical.
I'd say rebuild the engine, even if it's underpowered, it'd still work for the most part, and of couse gives you more time to find an engine that's more fitting for the bobcat in the long term... :)
I'll go with rebuilding this engine. First put the pistons in the sonic cleaner then it would be easyer to remove the rings. I would replace those rings only with just a slight cylinder honing (deglaze?). It will definitely start after that but will need the glow plugs that is quite normal with those pre combustion diesel. When you are cleaning the engine block, protec the crank journal to avoid dirt around them and the oil feed hole. Mark the rod and cap on one side to avoid mixing them. They are machined one by one. AS for the valves lash, someone could have tried to adjust them while being open on the wrong TDC in exhaust time. That they have too much gap. Keep us knowing what you decide. I watch yours video's since a few years and find them always interesting.
What about rebuilding the current engine (because of the "custom" mounting ) and adding a turbo kit to get the power up into a more usable range? There's plenty of room and it would be fun to watch you do a silly turbo project ! Awesome show as always! You are truly living the dream!!
easy enough to plumb a turbo into the exhaust and intake, but how do you make the injection pump feed the appropriate amount of fuel for the PSI boost it currently has, im only familiar with Diaphragm setups that reference boost pressure like on the bosch ppump series, everything else uses electronics, youd have to either drastically underfeed or overfeed it fuel leading to a lack of power, or excessive smoking
@@augustm.moschera8646 No, I don't know your extent of knowledge on the topic of mechanical injection pumps, but the issue is that on a non turbo unit like this the fueling is linear to the rpm because the engine only pulls in a certain amount of air at any given rpm, a turbo unit on the other hand can vary widely in how much air enters the engine due to the turbo force feeding it, so a boost reference diaphragm is needed on the injection pump to adjust the fueling so when the boost comes on it doesn't lean out on the low rpms or just in general.
Could you imagine a combined channel with Mustie 1 and Watch Wes Work combined ? Both are absolute geniuses on anything mechanical. Mustie started my thirst for do it yourself repairs, though. I will be patiently be waiting for the next installment of this project. My hats off to both of these true mechanics.
I owened 2 of these bobcats, still have one in the family. Both were the gasoline engine. One was a three cylinder, air cooled with the kind of throttle you would set at a certain rpm and leave it there for the job at hand. The higher the rpm, the stronger/faster it woukd operate. I've ran several Bobcats and other skidsteer-type machines. They all have a throttle setting lever to choose an rpm to run at. A turbo diesel would not be ideal with this type of throttle system without an extensive cooling system combining water, air and oil cooling. You can see how it still over heated even without a turbo and bound up the rings. That engine set at its max rpms would of ran that bobcat nicely. It just couldn't sustain the generated heat levels
Really like your videos. I run a lot of Kubota machines and you do not normally need to compare peak HP between gas and diesel versions. For example I have a 36" 400kg cylinder mower which is available with 2 engine options. 1) 12Hp gas 2) 5.5Hp diesel. The diesel outperforms the gas in all respects because it just needs to deliver torque and they only specify a higher power gas engine to get the required torque at sensible gear ratios. Perhaps it is worth trying to free up the rings (heat / Ultrasonic bath, solvent soak) and hone the bores and see if it gives what you need, Unless you intend to do a lot of heavy duty work I suspect the engine you have would be fine if you can get it to run properly. I have a number of 3 cylinder Kubota powered machines and compared to my higher powered gas machines they are way ahead.
береги руки, ты начал работы в перчатках, но в процессе работы руки вновь голые и грязные.. это вредная для здоровья грязь, возможно лучше потерять во времени из-за неудобных перчаток чем потерять в здоровье, спасибо за интересное и позитивное видео!
I think you're right trying to get that generator running, rather than using it for parts. The 'Constant Speed Only' on the engine tag makes me think that this engine may have been designed so it only needs to operate reliably at it's rated speed. A single-speed engine may be, shall we say, 'more economically built', than an engine designed to operate over a wide RPM range.
Ye I would keep the Genset as is and try and get it running before cannibalising it. As for the bore on the Kubota the David Brown 885 tractors have the bore reamed straight in to the cast iron block with no separate sleeve. My 885 pinholed between the combustion chambers and water jacket so the fix was to bore the block and press fit sleeves in to the block. Engine runs a bit hotter than original because of this but was cheaper than a whole new engine. I would also try to get an engine of at least the original power output otherwise the Bobcat will be totally gutless.
@@quadrapoint You could have said that without sounding like a pompous jerk. If you had omitted the 'what a load of rubbish' part it would have been much better and maybe even got a 'like' as it would have been constructive rather than offensive. That aside, I based my thoughts on my own experience on finding configuration differences depending on intended application. So my comment may not be 'a load of rubbish', as you so arrogantly put it.
When you found loose valves and low compression I was like oh it'll come back if it would fire off and clean the valve seats up, so only a little into the video my guess is the valves were dirty causing low comp. Thanks Darren for the video brotha
That Kubota in gen set is atleast 35 hp if the electric power output is around 20 kw. Engine power is derated by around 30% to match the power requirements of attachments. We use a 1.4 L Hatz turbo engine rated at 48 hp in our equipment.
Nice work! To be honest with you, I'd just put new rings in it and call it a day...or two. And keep the generator complete for a rainy day...without power!
Before you even open it, I am thinking a rebuild of this motor or changing it with another mini 3 with the same SAE mounts, is going to the the easy path. BUT Amazon has a 1L 35 hp V twin gas air cooled motor :)
Hone the worst cylinder, buy one set of Standard Rings. Insert ring(s) up and down the bore and measure the end gap. You may just be able to re-ring it with a hone job and be done. Those lower Rod Bearings look Outstanding!!!!
I'd try soaking the pistons in ATF then sonic cleaning them. If the rings free up, hit the cylinders with a hone for a new cross hatch, and reassemble. Might end up with a running engine for the cost of a head gasket and some RTV for the oil pan.
those funky looking sockets are pass through sockets and they make a ratchet that holds the outside of the socket great video by the way ; i'm currently working on a three cylinder kabota gasoline engine at work on a grasshopper mower
If you're looking for other Kubota engine options, look at the d902 or I think it's the 1105. Those were used in utility vehicles pretty widely available and would get you closer to the horsepower you want. Plus you could add turbo charging and some kind of intercooler to make them decent efficient wise otherwise there's the original repower kits readily available
Can't help thinking that both of those are still underpowered at 25hp. The original engine was 35hp for diesel or 32hp. The nearest Kubota engine would be the d1402 at 33hp. Edit: the governor system is the same type on all the Kubota engines so whatever throttle conversion works on the D662 should work on other models.
@@chrishartley1210 To avoid hydraulic stalling you need torque, not power, and he is already replacing gas with diesel, and the hydraulic system is worn, which reduces the needed torque still farther, and so what if an old machine is slow? So I think all he needs to do is unstick the rings and he can use the engine he has. He might have even done that in the machine by soaking the upright cylinders in a detergent like Sea Foam, where now he would at least need a gasket set. Then there are also ring sealants like Restore for very worn engines, though I still don't know how well they lubricate. Unfortunately, I am faced with similar problems on a Subaru boxer engine with vertical rings, which might be considerably harder to pour in detergent and soak, so then detergent might have to be added to gas and oil to unstick rings, with unknown effects on the lubricity of oil, like any oil additive. Still worthwhile though if the engine is otherwise junk or nearly junk, not worth an overhaul. They used to sell another ring sealant called "Yale Overhaul Pellets" but they stopped making them, though I hope they find a big supply of new old stock to supply more than collectors. I had real success with the stuff, though it was supposed to go in a hot engine, so he would have to get this one started to warm it up. No such problem with Restore I don't think. Project Farm got a diesel tractor to start with Restore that lacked the compression to start otherwise, just like this. Still, I think the main trick is to unstick rings without disassembly, but I hear detergents can do that.
@@chrishartley1210 Also, if previous owners wore out the little engine by using the machine until it wore out, then the type was certainly usable or it would not have been so used. All he needed to do was free up the rings with detergent.
@@alan6832 Certainly it is repairable but is it worthwhile? It may need new sleeves too. But the big question is why did it overheat. Was it simply because it was undersized?
One thing we used to do with stuff that was hard to start or a very long time since run diesel, was to drain the coolant put used oil in the sump and add a engine flush , then put a carburettor on a board over the air intake, feed that with acetone, usually they would start eventually, then once it was running get it to run on the diesel, turn off the diesel so it was only running on the acetone, let it heat up until it was stinking hot, then turn it off, let it cool a bit fill, with coolant, restart it on the acetone then leave it for a half hour or so, switch the diesel back on , leave it a half hour or so idling then change the oil, hopefully the heat and acetone will mobilise the rings and the flush gets it into the oil, used to work very well on the difficult starters, usually once it had done a couple of heat cycles they would settle down, sticking 5 percent used engine oil in the diesel helps geriatric engines ,
See if you can find a reefer unit with a four cylinder diesel in it, I have a 32hp Isuzu engine out of a reefer. It has a standard governor instead of a constant speed one on it. I bought it for $500, but I had to take it out myself.make sure you get the pump adapter plate to the SAE bellhousing. Makes adapting easier. If you want I can measure that engine up for you.
I worked for a company that used a lot of Bobcats. One particular machine was a model 630 that had a 1200cc air cooled gasoline Wisconsin engine. The Bobcat was used around the clock 24 hrs. a day. The Wisconsin engine was pretty much a disposable engine so they would buy a new one every year or so. It was very easy to change the engine and could be done in an hour or so. Those engines were used in lots of industrial applications and should be easy to find to rig into your machine.
I have the gas version and it puts out plenty of power for the unit. I would recommend repower with original. The original engine is a 4 cyl Ford Kent crossflow 1600cc with an updraft carb. It is a great setup since it is the same motor that is used in the "Formula Ford" racing. You can get all sorts of high perf parts for this engine from aftermarket sources. I have racing silicone seals, electric fuel pump, electronic ignition and so on. Hard to beat it. It isn't as well know in the US as compared to Europe.
I agree with Jag. Though I know very little about diesel engines, I wonder if a cylinder hone and new piston rings would do the trick to get it to run decent. Of course there is still the under horsepower issue. Sure enjoy your channel.
You should really need to do a follow "will it run" featuring a rebuild of this motor, even if it doesn't go back in the bobcat... would love to see that. :)
Another great video mustie, now is your opportunity to shoehorn a vw motor into the skid steer. It would definitely be a first. Look forward to the next step. Be safe, have fun :)
Good video. If you are going to work on that engine check the cam for wear. The excess rocker clearance could be caused by flat lobes on the cam. those sockets you were using for the rod bolts are made for a poke through ratchet. I have a set that I got from Harbor Freight. Looking forward to the next video.
I would expect Mustie1 to hone the cylinder walls, throw the pistons in the parts washer and slap it back together with the old head gasket and ship it lol
You can old school test your rings, set all pistons with some room in the cylinder and add your choice of beverage to each and then walk away for a while. If you lose your fluid then you need rings. Love watching this stuff.
Whichever way you choose is gonna be great content...lookin forward to it as always. However, I don't think it would be that difficult to hone the cylinders, new ring packs, bolt 'er back together and put it back to work. Maybe get the head reworked while its out? Anyhow, ramblin'. Cant wait to see how ya go on it
Aa soon as the head was removed and you went in on the bores, the 'carbon line' on the centre bore caught my eye right away. I was thinking along the lines of broken compression rings but my guess is the engine has been toasted at some point. My way around it as a cheap fix is to get the old rings out the pistons, clear the ring groves, hone the bores & a new set of rings. It'll run just dandy & keep you going until you find the engine of choice for it. At the very least, you can prove out all the hydraulics & drive line. Great video as usual Mustie👍👍
Those 12 point bolts can be a bit annoying, I found out the hard way that even if you have the right size 12 point socket, some of them just don't work because they make sockets with different kinds of teeth Though they are amazing on stuff like exhaust or turbo bolts because they're much harder to round off
@blowupbob1 Mustie got it right. They're 12 point sockets. There are metric and SAE too. 12 point bolts are easier to get a socket in blind holes and tight spaces. Most manufacturers have switched to torx for such applications now.
Reminds of when my dad dropped a piston and rod down about 20 concrete stairs into the basement and refused to buy a new one. That was is in '93 I think and the 360 had almost 100,000 miles on the rebuild when I sold the truck, and I still see the guy I sold it to driving it.
On that cylinder head you can have the Bells facing up so it's all level. Pour some brake cleaner or some liquid like gasoline or anything like that in there and see if the valves seal or if they leak through then. You'll know that the valve are not sealing
Repair this motor and you come out ahead.the bottom end looks to be in good condition. You'll know it's good for a long time and will be less work than trying to shoehorn a different engine in there. Thanks for the video.
Just for your channel content, could you do a light hone of cylinders, and replace all piston rings. Maybe a quick lap of valves. And see how it runs. A few comments asking for the same thing. It would be instresting to see how much compression you could get back.
My dad has a Kubota tractor with the662 in it and it has no issues running a front end loader doing fairly heavy work. Just because it had a 32hp gas engine doesn't mean it needed 32hp. The 16hp diesel probably has more torque than the 32hp gas engine did anyway. Everybody now wants 20hp plus lawn mowers but look at all of the old 8hp garden tractors that did plenty of work running implements.
If you can find a little 4bt Cummins to put in this thing, that could be a decent swap. If I remember correctly these older Bobcats used mostly Cummins/Onan engines but if not, well then you could say you got a monster.
Also Perkins, Isuzu, duetz. Whoever the winning bud was. I’ve got a Isuzu 4jb1 in my 853 and love it. My mini excavator has an Isuzu 3ld1 and I love that one too.
I've been rewatching some of your old videos, yours is one of the few good channels left on TH-cam. No religion, no politics, and no shtick. Just me and Mustie wrenching on stuff.
I think he's a Salty Cracker fan. I see "4:30 Avocado Time" on his locker. That is when Salty does his live streams Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.
I'd do a new set of rings, adjust the valves and slap it back in there. Test it out and see if it's got the power to do what you want and if not, sell it and look for one that hasn't had a heart transplant
Yes…..Cheap and dirty, no stinking clean-up……
Look at the carbon ridge on #2 cylinder. It’s lower than the rest which means compression is getting past the top ring.
Yeah it's because of the rings are collapsed.
My thoughts exactly as soon as I saw that , good catch
Noticed that wider carbon build up on #2, and wonder what that was all about myself. I agree with your diagnostics.
very sharp sight!
The bores did look decent so all that remains with that blowby is the rings.
If the block and head looks good it could be possible to revive.
Just fix up all those half-assed linkage and wiring jobs and it should be much more reliable.
While the engine is out, you can check the amount of wear on the rear pump control mechanism that is operated by one of the hand stick controls.
If you look to the left of the main input shaft you can see an adjustable sliding, lever/dowell contraption that wears out and is much easier to service now than later. (same as the front pump under the seat, operated by the other hand stick.)
It's the little stubby steel dowel pin that wears out a flat spot and i think costs around 20 bucks from Bobcat.
Hope Darren reads your 'Top Tip' comment. 🤞🏼
@@David-yo5ws
Y tube bans me so probably not.😖
@dubes5594 Absolutely yeah anything to do with an oil pump in a bobcat is gonna be super important, & great idea, a cheap fix, & a unique opportunity to fix a known problem. Well done! 👏👏👏👍
He'll probably make one of those pins using a lathe, or maybe several, so he has spares. He thinks similar to how I think.
Valve leakage
Sunday with Mustie is now a must.
You mean a musty
Wasn't it always?
Been watching Mustie every Sunday for years. My absolutely favorite
It’s been my Sunday morning routine for years now. Sunday morning coffee (or tea) and Mustie1! Glad to see what’s next for the bobcat.
And a coffee
54:20 i was honestly surprised he didn’t just take the hone to it, put the tops of the pistons in the ultrasonic to pop the ring lose and put it all back together and run it 😂
I was hoping for that, even if he choose to use a different engine.
He might even have freed the rings in place by pouring detergent, like Sea Foam, in the glow plug holes and soaking for a week. then it would probably just start right up with no engine removal or disassembly; and if not, try Restore ring sealant as well. All without even a head gasket.
@@alan6832 it depends on why the rings where stuck. If it's because of overheating it would not work.
That's what I'd do, Hone the bores (they don't appear to be wet liners which I think he was expecting) clean the pistons up and change the rings out for new ones then reassemble with a new head gasket
@@osbberjen They looked caked with carbon to me. Why would it not work on overheated rings? do they weld themselves to the lands or something?
It looks like it was breathing its own exhaust. Cooling is important for those little Kabota’s. We’ve repurposed many of them they are easy and fun to play with.
Does seem like a nice little engine
Yeah with the amount of soot in the engine compartment, it looks like it was breathing it's own exhaust for some time. Would kind of be like us trying to survive by breathing our own farts. You probably wouldn't live long either!
Hi Mustie1 Thankyou for all the videos from small engines to this bobcat .I have learned so much just by watching you . Thanks again
Hi Mustie. I recommend Josh from Sleeperdude channel reach out to you, He bought a VW Beetle and I think he needs you're Expertise. I watch all your Videos. Told him you're the Man. Cheers.
These "take apart and see what went wrong" type of videos are my absolute favorite videos on your channel!
I got in alot of trouble as a kid taking things apart...door knobs, alarm clocks ect. My dad finally locked up all the tools and yelled " You cant just go around breaking things !!!"
I try to avoid disassembly, and in this case I thin he could have freed the rings just by pouring detergent, like Sea Foam, into the cylinders and letting them soak for a week, with no engine removal or disassembly. Then maybe Restore ring sealer if still necessary.
Unfortunately, I doubt he could roll start a hydraulic drive because if it was a gear box, I would say haul it up a mountain, roll it down and dump the clutch at almost the redline. I have certainly started old diesel Rabbits that way, and it might be a permanent solution after soaking the rings so you don't need that mountain every morning.
Definitely another excellent engine teardown episode of Darren figuring out what went wrong with lots of comedic banter.
That alone is what keeps us subs craving a new Mustie1 episode.
Plus how he talks to us as tho we are actually there.
Can't wait to see what Darren comes up with to replace that engine.
You are one of the very few mechanics I have seen to hook two combination wrenches together to gain more leverage. Among my crowd we call that a "redneck breaker bar"
So it needs a ring job. Getting a set of rings and repairing the pistons would be cheapest. Then getting the kit you mentioned with pistons ready to go ($600) is ok as long as those pistons are guaranteed to fit and seal so you aren’t left with the same problem. What my thoughts are is (1) clean the whole thing out and (2) find an engine comparable to the original gas engine and just replace that diesel giving the machine a new lease on life. Looking forward to see what you do ! Paul
Go big or go home, as they say! Put the biggest engine you can into it! 30+ hp!
Have some fun with it! Turn it into the world's first "sleeper BobCat"
Probably could put a D1005 Kubota engine in it, they're around 26HP, the D662 that he pulled out of that Bobcat is only 19HP. So even a D922 which is 23HP would be a slight upgrade.
I'm yelling. the top ring on the center cylinder lost it's tension. Look at the wear mark difference at the top of the bore!
100% correct- good catch
No need to yell, the center cylinder had the worst compression and we knew that from part 1, Ace.
Coffee Mustie1 and Sunday morning is off to a excellent beginning. You did say it was a refer motor I say it was shot when installed. Them engines have thousands of hours on them before they are replaced. ✌️🙏💪 You're gonna wish you set valve clearances. They are 006 008 thousandths you said that they had 070 thousandths.
Good start to my Sunday, for sure. Whatever else you do on this project, if you clean out that pit from hell please show it !! If you plan on keeping it, you could just get it running, then slowly restore the rest.
Would like to see what freeing the rings would do for compression with maybe a quick cylinder hone, for giggles. Great work as always, Mustie!
I would do this first, next to no cost
Second this. We put new pistons and rings on a 3 cylinder yanmar. The bores were very worn. Still runs great 20 years later go figure
Ever heard of knurling the pistons and fitting in oversize rings? Hone it out, Leave a 3-5 thousandths ring gap and go.
I bet you could hone it, put rings in it, and it would live again. Those Kubotas are damn near indestructible. First thing I would do is try to get the rings out without hurting the pistons. Then you can cleanup the ring grooves and get them back to size with a real old skool tool a ring groove scraper or cleaner. Also pour some solvent into the ports and see if it leaks past the valves. If it does there is a valve job in your future. Even though the HP is less, the extra torque of a diesel might even things out a bit. However, your VW plan would be a lot more fun to watch.
True.. Quick recondition would work.. Doubtful if this Bob Cat will ever see continuous 80 HR, 52week, 365 day use. VW might be a bit high maintainence for this APP.
Dear Mustie1
👍👌👏 Well done again (video and work). 2) The Kubota engine interior looks surprisingly good. Therefore please kindly allow me to suggest that you simply measure the diameter of the cylinder bores. If still within the tolerances, I would just hone the cylinders. Then measure the pistons because maybe only new piston rings are necessary. Check and grind in the valves and check the springs respectively the complete cylinder head. Please also check the injectors etc..
Maybe you can get away with just 3 sets of piston rings, a complete gasket set and some modifications to the engine mounts (should be rubber). Even if you will not put it back into the Bobcat, this engine seems worth saving.
Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards, luck and health in particular.
To be fair it did not look that bad, I'll bet a hone some new rings, head gasket and a dirty valve job it would run again. Also robot cantina might have a kabota 772 diesel spare soon
Yes the engine is worth restoring but too weak for running this Bobcat. Mustie need an engine with around 30 HP.
I was gonna say the same thing. All in all, nothing looked really bad. Definitely would want to measure bore wear to ensure a mostly straight cylinders, but I'm be tempted to do the same thing. Hone the bores, new rings, lap the valves, and slap it together. Idk maybe some valve guides/seals.
Yeah rings are overrated.
A turbocharged 772 would be fanatic in that machine!
@@Frank-Thoresen I would say Mustie is not going to be pushing this machine anywhere near its limits. This thing is not worth a lot of money even if it were running with a bigger engine. All of the hydraulics probably need work too. An under-powered, but running machine is better than no machine.
I have found that taking an old cylinder pressure gauge adapter and set it up to a air regulator hooked to your compressor saves all the wonder out of compensation problems. 50 psi to the cylinder will let you if it's ring or valve blowby. It will also let you know if it's a head gasket.
I think it needs an air cooled Beetle engine! Surely the Bobcat and the Beetle engined plow/plough you just did will both fit on the trailer together, and make an excellent team for your VW meets? 💪
If the beetle engine can stay cool and have enough HP and torque then it would be an option. The other question is how much the fuel consumption is on the beetle engine compared with a Kobota diesel engine.
@@Frank-Thoresen yeah but, seriously, there's a big back door to pull ventilation through - add grilles if needed. In my own head, width might be the biggest restriction - those engines are wide. Still, Beetle BobCat would be super cool though? Fuel consumption wouldn't come into it - he'd only be running it for a few hours a year at the rate Mustie1 runs his rustorations.
It would have to be an engine out of a Bus or a Type III because Type I engines do not have the bosses for the mounts cast in.
@@josephheston9238 cool. I only know what Mustie1 has taught me about VW engines, but these are all engineering problems that can be easily solved.
@@Frank-Thoresen The VW would use 4-5 times the fuel that the Kubota would.
Thanks for the shop time Mustie1! I'm more of a gasoline engine type myself, one thing for sure, I will enjoy the project either way!
Pittsburg years ago made a set of sockets like that for long threads with a ratchet handle that did just that -popped on the outside, although theirs only had one size on the sockets. I still have mine and it comes in handy once in a while when even a deep socket isn't enough. Wish I had bought the metric sizes as well as they stopped offering it quite some time ago.
Rebuild the engine with new rings and a hone then fit it in the generator to give maybe 10kw then fit the more powerful engine from the generator in the Bobcat. Depends what you expect to do with the generator - you want it working but at what peak output ?
I was thinking same exact thing!!
thats not how any of that works, and even if it would work itd required alot of custom machined adapters, and an excessive amount of work, wouldnt make any sense
makes far more sense to dive into the generator unit and try to repair it, either itll be a working unit he can sell, or if he runs into a generator or motor issue thatll answer his question on using that engine
Looking forward to the next step on project Bobcat! If anyone can come up with a fix for this situation, it is you!
1 of the 5 times in Musties life he’s worn gloves 😂. Rumor has it he’s had the same box of gloves since he was a kid.😂
Rumor has it Mrs Mustie requested the gloves. I guess his hands were getting a little rough on her a, a, merchandise?
@@kevinfoster1213I know this is way off topic but I had a friend that had hands that were terribly rough an huge cracks like I've never seen and that was the one thing that always come to mind there is no way any woman could enjoy that sorry @mustie1 for being off-topic in your comments
Judging from comments below, folks are divided as to whether the engine would do the job if running. I think just for content value it would be worth it do the minimal rebuild job (new rings and honing), reinstall it, and see how well it performs. Wouldn't cost much, and great content. Possible home run if it worked out just fine for your purposes. My two cents.
Another Sunday morning with Mustie and a wonderful adventure. I think a 30hp diesel would be ideal.
Best way to start a Sunday. Musti1 and a cup of coffee.
Install a vw diesel
Two things to try -
1 - Take out the valve that looked different than the others to see if the seat is bad. That would determine the cost of repair versus exchange.
2 - Drop the heads of the pistons in a ultrasonic parts washer for an hour or six to see if the rings are still good without cracking them. Use a micrometer to measure them. There aren't any vertical scratches so they all should be good.
With any luck, and a new gasket set, the engine would be as good as new.
Don't conflate horsepower numbers of diesel and gas engines as the power output of each.
It's a lot of work if the engine even in perfect working order is not powerful enough. I would just find the right powered engine.
@@messenger8279 Show me the difference in torque ratings of the original gas engine and the replacement diesel engine and I'll agree with your point.
There's no telling if the rest of the machine is any good to start throwing good money after bad.
What makes you think that a different engine would be of a better quality than what's already being used?
Mustie has an engine with stuck compression rings. Unstick them, check the valve seat, and throw it back together. At the minimum, you have an slightly underpowered machine that has a good engine for almost no additional cost.
At that time you can upgrade the engine if needed.
The diesel's torque is probably even higher than the original gasoline engine, so I doubt that the diesel died because of regular stalling. Still, it is possible problem with the RPMs of the diesel. If everything in the Bobcat is made for a gasoline engine, probably for reaching a reasonable speed of operation, the diesel engine was working on max rpm constantly.
@@stans5270 I found this not sure if it helps but the Kubota is only 16 HP the original is 32 hp. The relationship of HP and torque is as follows. Is torque directly related to horsepower?
Without going into too much technical detail, here's how you can calculate horsepower with a simple equation: Horsepower = Torque x RPM / 5,252 (where 5,252 is the conversion between lb-ft and horsepower). This means the two are closely linked so, often, higher horsepower means higher torque.28 June 2021
@@messenger8279 Where did you get those figures from?
Your torque formula isn't valid for diesels. And it's not even valid for different gas engines.
Show me the model number of
this engine and where on the video it is shown.
I work as an engineer on ships. Checking the compression through the injectors is fine. It's unconventional but it is still in the cylinder as all diesel injectors are. My only recommendation was that you disconnect the fuel next time 😢.
I was worried you would start a fire. Usually the pressure at the injector is high enough to seriously hurt yourself if you get body parts in the way. Not to mention the diesel is now atomized enough it could catch fire.
Another reason to leave the fuel off. If youc ompression test it through the glow plugs the cylinder may fire it's charge of fuel which would be interesting to see it's effect on a tester 😮
There is a guy on YT who put a 719cc Kubota in a Saturn. He has several videos explaining how he got around the gvernor etc. Might be worth a watch (He later installed a turbo on it as well)
@robotcantina8957 is the channel - good call, I agree with you, a two minute conversation between these two would clear up a lot of questions. I certainly have enjoyed the saturn project
The kubota engine he put in is only about 18 hp, remember in the latest video where he is installing the predator 2 cylinder engine that is supposedly 22hp, Jimbo said the predator has more horsepower than the kubota and Mustie (Darren) said the original Ford engine was about 35-40 horsepower and the kubota D622E is under powered, so the D722 in the Saturn will also be underpowered for the bobcat. Why waste your time with some underpowered POS kubota? Put a proper 45-50 hp gasoline or diesel engine in it and then have a very useful piece of machinery. A small car engine would work.
@@kd5inm I mean, yeah a D622 isn't terribly powerful, but it's not a bad engine for what it is. Kubota engines are very sturdy for what they are, and something appropriately sized for this skid steer would be better.
@@tsp159 I used to work for a kubota tractor dealer as a mechanic. After working on those tractors and engines I am not impressed with the durability or build quality of their equipment. Kubota and Yanmar are both from Osaka Japan but I believe Yanmar is much better made in both engines and tractors and power equipment. Yanmar engines have sleeved cylinders and a 10 year warranty on their powertrain in their tractors. I have an older yanmar tractor that is 44 years old and its still running strong.
@@kd5inm he has a 20KW kubota engine there but wasnt sure how to make the governor work.. he could get some info in regards to that if the head on the genset unit is fried
Man that flying piston got me good. Thanks for the comedy.
Edit: I agree that another engine might be more well suited. Still would be fun to see this one running (outside of it) if it's salvagable, but it might not be very economical.
Good morning all from Lincolnshire UK 🇬🇧
I think a hone and new rings are all that it needs. It all looks in really good shape, otherwise. Or, LS swap it and be done... 🇬🇧👍
I'd say rebuild the engine, even if it's underpowered, it'd still work for the most part, and of couse gives you more time to find an engine that's more fitting for the bobcat in the long term... :)
Best project you have had in a long time. Would love to see this project completed either s rebuild or alternate engine.
I'll go with rebuilding this engine. First put the pistons in the sonic cleaner then it would be easyer to remove the rings.
I would replace those rings only with just a slight cylinder honing (deglaze?). It will definitely start after that but will need the glow plugs that is quite normal with those pre combustion diesel.
When you are cleaning the engine block, protec the crank journal to avoid dirt around them and the oil feed hole.
Mark the rod and cap on one side to avoid mixing them. They are machined one by one.
AS for the valves lash, someone could have tried to adjust them while being open on the wrong TDC in exhaust time. That they have too much gap.
Keep us knowing what you decide. I watch yours video's since a few years and find them always interesting.
Jacques Deschênes..... Not enough power.
Just put a beetle engine in it, You know you want to.
🤣
I saw one on marketplace a while back.
@@the-vapist2242 I'll bet that thought has crossed his mind!
Awesome as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
What about rebuilding the current engine (because of the "custom" mounting ) and adding a turbo kit to get the power up into a more usable range? There's plenty of room and it would be fun to watch you do a silly turbo project ! Awesome show as always! You are truly living the dream!!
Id back that!😅
easy enough to plumb a turbo into the exhaust and intake, but how do you make the injection pump feed the appropriate amount of fuel for the PSI boost it currently has, im only familiar with Diaphragm setups that reference boost pressure like on the bosch ppump series, everything else uses electronics, youd have to either drastically underfeed or overfeed it fuel leading to a lack of power, or excessive smoking
@@AndrewBrowner I'm not sure, maybe try to source a larger injectors or some kind of propane injection?
@@augustm.moschera8646 No, I don't know your extent of knowledge on the topic of mechanical injection pumps, but the issue is that on a non turbo unit like this the fueling is linear to the rpm because the engine only pulls in a certain amount of air at any given rpm, a turbo unit on the other hand can vary widely in how much air enters the engine due to the turbo force feeding it, so a boost reference diaphragm is needed on the injection pump to adjust the fueling so when the boost comes on it doesn't lean out on the low rpms or just in general.
@@ethancoy9237 Ok, now i see what your saying.
Could you imagine a combined channel with Mustie 1 and Watch Wes Work combined ? Both are absolute geniuses on anything mechanical. Mustie started my thirst for do it yourself repairs, though. I will be patiently be waiting for the next installment of this project. My hats off to both of these true mechanics.
Two instresting channels for sure.
WOOHOO !!! That would be a "two-fer" !!! 😊
Dont let this project die! What a great one! I'm thinking VW!!!!! Aircooled
Coffee ready? Snacks ready? Its Sunday Mustie1 time, every week a big feast.
Thanks Mustie1.
Coffee and smokes count? :)
@@Ajaxaxxess Yep
@@pcuser80 Good! Been my sunday a.m. for years :) Have a great rest of the day man!
@@Ajaxaxxess Thanks man :)
I owened 2 of these bobcats, still have one in the family. Both were the gasoline engine. One was a three cylinder, air cooled with the kind of throttle you would set at a certain rpm and leave it there for the job at hand. The higher the rpm, the stronger/faster it woukd operate. I've ran several Bobcats and other skidsteer-type machines. They all have a throttle setting lever to choose an rpm to run at. A turbo diesel would not be ideal with this type of throttle system without an extensive cooling system combining water, air and oil cooling. You can see how it still over heated even without a turbo and bound up the rings. That engine set at its max rpms would of ran that bobcat nicely. It just couldn't sustain the generated heat levels
Really like your videos. I run a lot of Kubota machines and you do not normally need to compare peak HP between gas and diesel versions. For example I have a 36" 400kg cylinder mower which is available with 2 engine options. 1) 12Hp gas 2) 5.5Hp diesel. The diesel outperforms the gas in all respects because it just needs to deliver torque and they only specify a higher power gas engine to get the required torque at sensible gear ratios. Perhaps it is worth trying to free up the rings (heat / Ultrasonic bath, solvent soak) and hone the bores and see if it gives what you need, Unless you intend to do a lot of heavy duty work I suspect the engine you have would be fine if you can get it to run properly. I have a number of 3 cylinder Kubota powered machines and compared to my higher powered gas machines they are way ahead.
pfuuuuu ... a real nightmare, that bobcat!
Thanks for showing us your struggles with it!
береги руки,
ты начал работы в перчатках, но в процессе работы руки вновь голые и грязные.. это вредная для здоровья грязь,
возможно лучше потерять во времени из-за неудобных перчаток чем потерять в здоровье,
спасибо за интересное и позитивное видео!
Я был рад видеть перчатки, когда он удалял масло.
That looks like a gm4260 compatible socket set. The wrench is super handy to go with the sockets.
Your videos always keep me interested !! Looking forward to a follow up Video. Great job.
I just can't imagine a day when Mustie didn't consider a VW powered Bobcat!
He was measuring it in the last video . Quite doesnt fit cuz he dumbed the idea.
Hello and Happy Sunday everyone!!
My guess is that it wound up being under powered and over worked after the engine change. Good job doing your research. More power, more better!
I think you're right trying to get that generator running, rather than using it for parts. The 'Constant Speed Only' on the engine tag makes me think that this engine may have been designed so it only needs to operate reliably at it's rated speed. A single-speed engine may be, shall we say, 'more economically built', than an engine designed to operate over a wide RPM range.
I think it is just the carburetor that is designed for constant speed in a generator.
Ye I would keep the Genset as is and try and get it running before cannibalising it. As for the bore on the Kubota the David Brown 885 tractors have the bore reamed straight in to the cast iron block with no separate sleeve. My 885 pinholed between the combustion chambers and water jacket so the fix was to bore the block and press fit sleeves in to the block. Engine runs a bit hotter than original because of this but was cheaper than a whole new engine. I would also try to get an engine of at least the original power output otherwise the Bobcat will be totally gutless.
What a load of rubbish those engines are all built the same the only difference is the governing they can be fixed speed or variable speed
@@quadrapoint You could have said that without sounding like a pompous jerk. If you had omitted the 'what a load of rubbish' part it would have been much better and maybe even got a 'like' as it would have been constructive rather than offensive. That aside, I based my thoughts on my own experience on finding configuration differences depending on intended application. So my comment may not be 'a load of rubbish', as you so arrogantly put it.
When you found loose valves and low compression I was like oh it'll come back if it would fire off and clean the valve seats up, so only a little into the video my guess is the valves were dirty causing low comp. Thanks Darren for the video brotha
Seven o’clock here in East Boston must be wrenching time with Mustie 1
6:00 a.m. here in the midwest.. Coffee time!
South of Boston 48 degrees! no boating today.
That Kubota in gen set is atleast 35 hp if the electric power output is around 20 kw. Engine power is derated by around 30% to match the power requirements of attachments. We use a 1.4 L Hatz turbo engine rated at 48 hp in our equipment.
Nice work! To be honest with you, I'd just put new rings in it and call it a day...or two. And keep the generator complete for a rainy day...without power!
Before you even open it, I am thinking a rebuild of this motor or changing it with another mini 3 with the same SAE mounts, is going to the the easy path. BUT Amazon has a 1L 35 hp V twin gas air cooled motor :)
Gonna be cool to see what you end up putting in this. Either way its gonna be a nice unit when you're done.
Hone the worst cylinder, buy one set of Standard Rings. Insert ring(s) up and down the bore and measure the end gap. You may just be able to re-ring it with a hone job and be done. Those lower Rod Bearings look Outstanding!!!!
I'd try soaking the pistons in ATF then sonic cleaning them. If the rings free up, hit the cylinders with a hone for a new cross hatch, and reassemble. Might end up with a running engine for the cost of a head gasket and some RTV for the oil pan.
those funky looking sockets are pass through sockets and they make a ratchet that holds the outside of the socket great video by the way ; i'm currently working on a three cylinder kabota gasoline engine at work on a grasshopper mower
If you're looking for other Kubota engine options, look at the d902 or I think it's the 1105. Those were used in utility vehicles pretty widely available and would get you closer to the horsepower you want. Plus you could add turbo charging and some kind of intercooler to make them decent efficient wise otherwise there's the original repower kits readily available
Can't help thinking that both of those are still underpowered at 25hp. The original engine was 35hp for diesel or 32hp. The nearest Kubota engine would be the d1402 at 33hp. Edit: the governor system is the same type on all the Kubota engines so whatever throttle conversion works on the D662 should work on other models.
nice catch...
@@chrishartley1210 To avoid hydraulic stalling you need torque, not power, and he is already replacing gas with diesel, and the hydraulic system is worn, which reduces the needed torque still farther, and so what if an old machine is slow? So I think all he needs to do is unstick the rings and he can use the engine he has. He might have even done that in the machine by soaking the upright cylinders in a detergent like Sea Foam, where now he would at least need a gasket set. Then there are also ring sealants like Restore for very worn engines, though I still don't know how well they lubricate.
Unfortunately, I am faced with similar problems on a Subaru boxer engine with vertical rings, which might be considerably harder to pour in detergent and soak, so then detergent might have to be added to gas and oil to unstick rings, with unknown effects on the lubricity of oil, like any oil additive. Still worthwhile though if the engine is otherwise junk or nearly junk, not worth an overhaul.
They used to sell another ring sealant called "Yale Overhaul Pellets" but they stopped making them, though I hope they find a big supply of new old stock to supply more than collectors. I had real success with the stuff, though it was supposed to go in a hot engine, so he would have to get this one started to warm it up. No such problem with Restore I don't think.
Project Farm got a diesel tractor to start with Restore that lacked the compression to start otherwise, just like this. Still, I think the main trick is to unstick rings without disassembly, but I hear detergents can do that.
@@chrishartley1210 Also, if previous owners wore out the little engine by using the machine until it wore out, then the type was certainly usable or it would not have been so used. All he needed to do was free up the rings with detergent.
@@alan6832 Certainly it is repairable but is it worthwhile? It may need new sleeves too. But the big question is why did it overheat. Was it simply because it was undersized?
One thing we used to do with stuff that was hard to start or a very long time since run diesel, was to drain the coolant put used oil in the sump and add a engine flush , then put a carburettor on a board over the air intake, feed that with acetone, usually they would start eventually, then once it was running get it to run on the diesel, turn off the diesel so it was only running on the acetone, let it heat up until it was stinking hot, then turn it off, let it cool a bit fill, with coolant, restart it on the acetone then leave it for a half hour or so, switch the diesel back on , leave it a half hour or so idling then change the oil, hopefully the heat and acetone will mobilise the rings and the flush gets it into the oil, used to work very well on the difficult starters, usually once it had done a couple of heat cycles they would settle down, sticking 5 percent used engine oil in the diesel helps geriatric engines ,
A very eco friendly machine. Comes with its own compost 🌱
See if you can find a reefer unit with a four cylinder diesel in it, I have a 32hp Isuzu engine out of a reefer. It has a standard governor instead of a constant speed one on it. I bought it for $500, but I had to take it out myself.make sure you get the pump adapter plate to the SAE bellhousing. Makes adapting easier. If you want I can measure that engine up for you.
Good video, Mustie. I'm looking forward to seeing how you go about making this machine functional once more.
I worked for a company that used a lot of Bobcats. One particular machine was a model 630 that had a 1200cc air cooled gasoline Wisconsin engine. The Bobcat was used around the clock 24 hrs. a day. The Wisconsin engine was pretty much a disposable engine so they would buy a new one every year or so. It was very easy to change the engine and could be done in an hour or so. Those engines were used in lots of industrial applications and should be easy to find to rig into your machine.
Can't wait to see where this project goes. I really want to see it running again
I have the gas version and it puts out plenty of power for the unit. I would recommend repower with original. The original engine is a 4 cyl Ford Kent crossflow 1600cc with an updraft carb. It is a great setup since it is the same motor that is used in the "Formula Ford" racing. You can get all sorts of high perf parts for this engine from aftermarket sources. I have racing silicone seals, electric fuel pump, electronic ignition and so on. Hard to beat it. It isn't as well know in the US as compared to Europe.
Yay! Just a great way to spend a Sunday morning!
I agree with Jag. Though I know very little about diesel engines, I wonder if a cylinder hone and new piston rings would do the trick to get it to run decent. Of course there is still the under horsepower issue. Sure enjoy your channel.
The engine air must be from high outside the engine compartment and must have an extra large filter for "construction/destruction work.
You should really need to do a follow "will it run" featuring a rebuild of this motor, even if it doesn't go back in the bobcat... would love to see that. :)
Another great video mustie, now is your opportunity to shoehorn a vw motor into the skid steer. It would definitely be a first. Look forward to the next step. Be safe, have fun :)
Two cups of mud, some raisin oatmeal and a Mustie video on a clear cool Sunday. What a great start to the day.
Good video. If you are going to work on that engine check the cam for wear. The excess rocker clearance could be caused by flat lobes on the cam. those sockets you were using for the rod bolts are made for a poke through ratchet. I have a set that I got from Harbor Freight. Looking forward to the next video.
Sunday morning such a nice day
I would expect Mustie1 to hone the cylinder walls, throw the pistons in the parts washer and slap it back together with the old head gasket and ship it lol
Valve job? Cant wait to see an air cooled bobcat.
IKR...shoehorn one of those VW engines in it...that would be awesome!
Duetz air cooled engines came in many bobcats, they are their own can of worms though.
heh, no kidding, a nice 1776 dual port with Webers and a Stinger exhaust hanging out the back and the cylinders poking out the sides!!
You can old school test your rings, set all pistons with some room in the cylinder and add your choice of beverage to each and then walk away for a while. If you lose your fluid then you need rings. Love watching this stuff.
Whichever way you choose is gonna be great content...lookin forward to it as always. However, I don't think it would be that difficult to hone the cylinders, new ring packs, bolt 'er back together and put it back to work. Maybe get the head reworked while its out? Anyhow, ramblin'. Cant wait to see how ya go on it
Hanging out with Mustie is like hanging on a Saturday with your old high school auto class teacher!
Aa soon as the head was removed and you went in on the bores, the 'carbon line' on the centre bore caught my eye right away.
I was thinking along the lines of broken compression rings but my guess is the engine has been toasted at some point.
My way around it as a cheap fix is to get the old rings out the pistons, clear the ring groves, hone the bores & a new set of rings.
It'll run just dandy & keep you going until you find the engine of choice for it.
At the very least, you can prove out all the hydraulics & drive line.
Great video as usual Mustie👍👍
A set of rings, a headgasket and an oil pan gasket. Send it! That Kubota will have plenty of pep.
Those 12 point bolts can be a bit annoying, I found out the hard way that even if you have the right size 12 point socket, some of them just don't work because they make sockets with different kinds of teeth
Though they are amazing on stuff like exhaust or turbo bolts because they're much harder to round off
The 8mm 12-point that was used is larger than the 5/16th 12-point rod bolt.
Yepper. Mercury Marine LOVES to use them. Drives me nuts.
@@gearheadgregwi Do you know what that bolt head pattern is called, and what the proper sockets are for them?
@blowupbob1 Mustie got it right. They're 12 point sockets. There are metric and SAE too. 12 point bolts are easier to get a socket in blind holes and tight spaces. Most manufacturers have switched to torx for such applications now.
@blowupbob1 the gimmick was your 12 point sockets would also work on 6 point hex bolts. Typically though, they'd just end up rounding off the bolt.
Reminds of when my dad dropped a piston and rod down about 20 concrete stairs into the basement and refused to buy a new one. That was is in '93 I think and the 360 had almost 100,000 miles on the rebuild when I sold the truck, and I still see the guy I sold it to driving it.
So this engine was used to power Snoop dogs holiday home?? a reefer unit? lol Keep up the good work.
On that cylinder head you can have the Bells facing up so it's all level. Pour some brake cleaner or some liquid like gasoline or anything like that in there and see if the valves seal or if they leak through then. You'll know that the valve are not sealing
I wonder how hard it would be to put a Beetle engine in it.
I had the same thought
I think he joked about that in the first video! Hahaha!
Why not? Bug engines used to end up in about anything!
Might be too wide.
I worked on a few skidsteers with air cooled engines. They worked OK until the operator would drive thru deep crap, plugging the cooling fins.
Repair this motor and you come out ahead.the bottom end looks to be in good condition. You'll know it's good for a long time and will be less work than trying to shoehorn a different engine in there. Thanks for the video.
29:37 time to do the water test: fill the intake passages up with water and see what leaks (since you don't have a big combustion chamber).
Just for your channel content, could you do a light hone of cylinders, and replace all piston rings. Maybe a quick lap of valves. And see how it runs. A few comments asking for the same thing. It would be instresting to see how much compression you could get back.
Still a wonderful project.Thanks.😊
typically the sleeves are decked with the block in one operation on the small ones so they look more like a solid piece.
All you need is some new rings the cylinders look great and put a little turbo on it
My dad has a Kubota tractor with the662 in it and it has no issues running a front end loader doing fairly heavy work. Just because it had a 32hp gas engine doesn't mean it needed 32hp. The 16hp diesel probably has more torque than the 32hp gas engine did anyway. Everybody now wants 20hp plus lawn mowers but look at all of the old 8hp garden tractors that did plenty of work running implements.
If you can find a little 4bt Cummins to put in this thing, that could be a decent swap. If I remember correctly these older Bobcats used mostly Cummins/Onan engines but if not, well then you could say you got a monster.
They used air cooled Wisconsin engines.
Also Perkins, Isuzu, duetz. Whoever the winning bud was. I’ve got a Isuzu 4jb1 in my 853 and love it. My mini excavator has an Isuzu 3ld1 and I love that one too.
Case was the primary user of the Cummins engine.