Hello. Thank you for a nice video. Quality content for us SAAB-nerds out here. Good work with the part numbers shown, and methodically labelled steps. If there are more videos coming out, I'm looking forward to them.
Hello BFJ, this is a great video. Agree with others who appreciate this highly detailed format, amatuers such as myself want to see every step, every detail (including the tasks you repeat). When you have the time to insert some vocals (as you mention) that'll be great to hear (& see). Certainly be checking for further videos. Congratulations,, job well done.
It's a shame, the most important thing to stop a turbo engine from knocking was not installed - piston oil cooling from underneath! The Saab-H-engine has an oil line in the block that runs through the engine and can be drilled into in order to then shrink in nozzles. In the end, this innovation leads to a significantly more harmonious and stronger engine operation, as the APC system has to intervene much later.
really should put some sealant around the ends of the head gasket where it goes over the end covers. Above and below the gasket. It's not in the manual but great for stopping leaks from those areas. They leaked from those joints from the factory! The sealant always should have been there but never mentioned by Saab or in any of the manuals.
That's a great tip, and I wish I had done that! At this point, I think I'll install the engine the way it was built and hope for the best. I've rebuilt it three times over after finding better info online and on the forums. There are many items on this car that are test items that may have to be replaced or rebuilt in the near future (one being the ProPart motor mounts), so I can always pull the motor and crack the engine back open if I find oil leaks have developed. I'll definitely remember to that for subsequent engines, although I may have to ask my machinist about the very next one as I'll be using a Cometic MLS gasket for my SPG performance build. Regardless, thanks for your tip and wisdom!
Had the machine shop install those since they did a valve job on the head. I may take footage of installing the valves and springs when I'm building my next engine in a year or so.
alright!!! time to get the projector out for a 120" 4hr 24min watch!! Also, im on a mission to rebuild my engine. what steps did you do tonfet yours so clean, and recommended spray paint (if thats what you also used)? appreciate it
When I had the engine block and head machined, they also cleaned them in a giant parts washer prior to machining. I then used wire wheels on a Dremel to rid the rest of the rust on the side of block and the remaining corrosion on the head once I got them back. After that, I used engine primer and enamel paints to paint them both (Duplicolor, Rustoleum, and VHT brands - favorite color was Cast Coat Aluminum by Rustoleum), and the paint will fully cure later on when running the engine (the instructions are on the paint cans for that procedure). As for the other parts, I sandblasted and painted the outside of most of them, and re-zinced the hardware myself using a Caswell CopyCad zinc plating kit.
Eventually! I'm about to paint the car and then re-assemble it. I plan on documenting the entire rebuild, one step at a time once I finish capturing video and editing.
Yup, wanted to match some part of the Saab/Scania logo, and red seems to be the go-to, custom choice for many. Guess that makes sense though if you T5 swap your engine management as the DI cassette is red (if you don't paint it that is). Think I may opt for an Edwardian Grey color for my next one, so I can pay homage to the original color of my SPG before I give it a custom body color. We'll see!
This is great content. I don't have time to restore one right now but I will some day! Are you interested in doing this work for pay? I have a few cars that could use this treatment.... :)
Maybe a lot later in the future - I'm up to my ears in my own projects at the moment lol. I still have the car this engine's going in and at least two others that I have to finish up first.
No background music. A sparse commentary of what, why, orientation and direction of parts, etc. would be useful to first timers because it’s really easy to install stuff incorrectly. (Backwards!) Be clear and sequential with vocal comments, preferably read from a pre-written script or outline. Repeating the same process 3 or15 times will make the videos too long and interest will be waning. Be clear, then go back and EDIT. I liked the mocking bird singing in the background!.
Thanks for the feedback! I was planning on releasing a commentary-ed version, but then began working on trying to finish up the rest of the car. I recorded the audio, but then got busy with life in general. I'll post one eventually once I get the car put back together, but for now, this will be the only video on the channel for a bit. I'm about to paint the car, so hopefully I can release more videos this winter. Although it's (very) repetitive, I do like to show every step to allow folks to realize that the building process can take a good long while. Also, I know there are a few things that are out of the normal order of building this engine, mainly having the head attached before the side plates, so I'll need to explain why I did that exactly. I may change the chronological order of installing parts on my next engine I build later on (it'll be a turbo vs NA). Regardless, thanks much!
Why is there still a ridge line on the Bores ?? NOT clever to fit cams before attaching Head to Block And WHY are you using Stretchy Cyl Bolts? They are a Poor substitute for the earlier Not stretchy Reusable Originals ??
The vertical line in the bore is a minor scratch from inserting the connecting rods without proper protection - this was pure laziness on my part. The line/change in color that's around the circumference at the top of the bore is chamfering done by the machine shop for better ease in inserting the pistons. I'm still fairly new to engine building and love to learn, so could there be damage from inserting the cams off block? I did make sure to suspend the head to allow for valve movement; I know that's paramount. I did do a few things out of order, as I've reassembled this engine three times over after learning from other mistakes. As for the newer type of head bolts, they're the only one's I could readily find online. I'll be installing ARP head studs on my next project with forced induction. I believe the OEM bolts on this car were the torque-to-yield type (as this is a '92 900S block with a swapped '89 SPG head), or at least that's the kind I removed when disassembling. I ended choosing to swap heads so I can utilize the better flow in the 2.1 head for my next project.
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Hello.
Thank you for a nice video. Quality content for us SAAB-nerds out here.
Good work with the part numbers shown, and methodically labelled steps.
If there are more videos coming out, I'm looking forward to them.
I hope to have more as I rebuild the 900 that this engine is going into. I hope to have it rebuilt by August, or at least that's the goal.
Hello BFJ, this is a great video. Agree with others who appreciate this highly detailed format, amatuers such as myself want to see every step, every detail (including the tasks you repeat). When you have the time to insert some vocals (as you mention) that'll be great to hear (& see). Certainly be checking for further videos. Congratulations,, job well done.
your channel is a hidden classic, make content like this and youll be huge no problem
Thanks! It took me ages to initially upload the first one, so the second one may be a bit. Stay tuned!
thank you! The parts library is a goldmine. 😍
Glad I could help! I'm trying to expand it every day, so it should hopefully get better in the near future.
It's a shame, the most important thing to stop a turbo engine from knocking was not installed - piston oil cooling from underneath! The Saab-H-engine has an oil line in the block that runs through the engine and can be drilled into in order to then shrink in nozzles. In the end, this innovation leads to a significantly more harmonious and stronger engine operation, as the APC system has to intervene much later.
What an amazing and beautiful result!
Thanks! Can't wait to install it soon.
nice! hope mine turns out half as good
Bet it'll turn out better than you expect. Good luck!
Wow! What a weird engine/ trans set up!
Saab was always quirky, but they were extra quirky on this one! lol
really should put some sealant around the ends of the head gasket where it goes over the end covers. Above and below the gasket. It's not in the manual but great for stopping leaks from those areas. They leaked from those joints from the factory! The sealant always should have been there but never mentioned by Saab or in any of the manuals.
That's a great tip, and I wish I had done that! At this point, I think I'll install the engine the way it was built and hope for the best. I've rebuilt it three times over after finding better info online and on the forums. There are many items on this car that are test items that may have to be replaced or rebuilt in the near future (one being the ProPart motor mounts), so I can always pull the motor and crack the engine back open if I find oil leaks have developed. I'll definitely remember to that for subsequent engines, although I may have to ask my machinist about the very next one as I'll be using a Cometic MLS gasket for my SPG performance build. Regardless, thanks for your tip and wisdom!
Best anywhere
Thanks!
Incredible!! Thnx! Must have missed something but how did u install the valves?
Had the machine shop install those since they did a valve job on the head. I may take footage of installing the valves and springs when I'm building my next engine in a year or so.
alright!!! time to get the projector out for a 120" 4hr 24min watch!!
Also, im on a mission to rebuild my engine. what steps did you do tonfet yours so clean, and recommended spray paint (if thats what you also used)? appreciate it
When I had the engine block and head machined, they also cleaned them in a giant parts washer prior to machining. I then used wire wheels on a Dremel to rid the rest of the rust on the side of block and the remaining corrosion on the head once I got them back. After that, I used engine primer and enamel paints to paint them both (Duplicolor, Rustoleum, and VHT brands - favorite color was Cast Coat Aluminum by Rustoleum), and the paint will fully cure later on when running the engine (the instructions are on the paint cans for that procedure). As for the other parts, I sandblasted and painted the outside of most of them, and re-zinced the hardware myself using a Caswell CopyCad zinc plating kit.
@@BFJRestoration well noted and thanks for details! definitely will start on mine this year.
Hi, will you be uploading more videos on your channel?
Eventually! I'm about to paint the car and then re-assemble it. I plan on documenting the entire rebuild, one step at a time once I finish capturing video and editing.
I always wondered what a blue top would look like....
Yup, wanted to match some part of the Saab/Scania logo, and red seems to be the go-to, custom choice for many. Guess that makes sense though if you T5 swap your engine management as the DI cassette is red (if you don't paint it that is). Think I may opt for an Edwardian Grey color for my next one, so I can pay homage to the original color of my SPG before I give it a custom body color. We'll see!
This is great content. I don't have time to restore one right now but I will some day! Are you interested in doing this work for pay? I have a few cars that could use this treatment.... :)
Maybe a lot later in the future - I'm up to my ears in my own projects at the moment lol. I still have the car this engine's going in and at least two others that I have to finish up first.
@@BFJRestoration Asked another way... Do you plan on selling them when you're done? Based on your attention to detail alone, I'd be first in line!
@@nborer At this point, I'll be keeping this one. But who knows what I'll do with this one when my next one is finished...
1:12:11 wrong way of doing timing chain gasket there and don't even use any paper gaskets there, it will leak, use straight silicone
No background music. A sparse commentary of what, why, orientation and direction of parts, etc. would be useful to first timers because it’s really easy to install stuff incorrectly. (Backwards!) Be clear and sequential with vocal comments, preferably read from a pre-written script or outline. Repeating the same process 3 or15 times will make the videos too long and interest will be waning. Be clear, then go back and EDIT. I liked the mocking bird singing in the background!.
Thanks for the feedback! I was planning on releasing a commentary-ed version, but then began working on trying to finish up the rest of the car. I recorded the audio, but then got busy with life in general. I'll post one eventually once I get the car put back together, but for now, this will be the only video on the channel for a bit. I'm about to paint the car, so hopefully I can release more videos this winter. Although it's (very) repetitive, I do like to show every step to allow folks to realize that the building process can take a good long while. Also, I know there are a few things that are out of the normal order of building this engine, mainly having the head attached before the side plates, so I'll need to explain why I did that exactly. I may change the chronological order of installing parts on my next engine I build later on (it'll be a turbo vs NA). Regardless, thanks much!
Why is there still a ridge line on the Bores ??
NOT clever to fit cams before attaching Head to Block
And WHY are you using Stretchy Cyl Bolts?
They are a Poor substitute for the earlier Not stretchy Reusable Originals ??
The vertical line in the bore is a minor scratch from inserting the connecting rods without proper protection - this was pure laziness on my part. The line/change in color that's around the circumference at the top of the bore is chamfering done by the machine shop for better ease in inserting the pistons.
I'm still fairly new to engine building and love to learn, so could there be damage from inserting the cams off block? I did make sure to suspend the head to allow for valve movement; I know that's paramount. I did do a few things out of order, as I've reassembled this engine three times over after learning from other mistakes.
As for the newer type of head bolts, they're the only one's I could readily find online. I'll be installing ARP head studs on my next project with forced induction. I believe the OEM bolts on this car were the torque-to-yield type (as this is a '92 900S block with a swapped '89 SPG head), or at least that's the kind I removed when disassembling. I ended choosing to swap heads so I can utilize the better flow in the 2.1 head for my next project.