How To Make A Perfect Joint In A Worktop With A Hikoki Battery Half Inch Router
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- Worktop Joints are one of the more stressful jobs as a carpenter, my brother in law Carl has come over to try out a Hikoki half inch battery router and some Freud router cutters in a hard post form work surface called Bush Board.
Carl is a Carpenter specialising in fitting kitchens on the South coast and can be contacted here
07788135821
Give him a follow on Instagram
/ carlruddell
Tools used (small commission paid from Amazon if you make a purchase via these links)
We use a Hikoki half inch router
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A typical router cutter
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The Trend worktop scribe tool Carl used
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A really similar worktop jig
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Festool Radio
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Lovely to see someone like yourself still so enthusiastic and enjoying his work
Impressive router.
I take the majority of the waste out with a jigsaw then trim up with the router. That way you don’t have to worry about the waste chipping out as you go through the last bit.
A great demonstration, I love the cordless router. I like to add biscuits between the clamp cut-outs to ensure the worktop faces finish flush when bolted together. It doesn't take long and it prevents movement when tightening the bolts.
That is a good idea.
Would love to see a video where you tag along with Carl on a job and film the full install of a laminate benchtop in a real kitchen. There would be a heap of valuable tips to be had there that weren’t in this video.
See what I can sort!!
that marker is so good. beats marking it tight then deducting cutter to outside of collet measurement.
I can relate to the anxiety of cutting worktops. Neat joints I learnt quite a bit from that, I hadn’t really appreciated the its blunt so quickly and that probably explains the poorer than anticipated edge. Great idea about screwing down
Do not run the cutter back up the joint to start a deeper cut, raise the bit out of the worktop on returning to the start. Avoid pining bits off doing so. A diamond hone keeps an edge on the router bits longer. You get what you pay for with cutters. A hint of polish/wax on the router base and jig allows smooth guiding of the router. If not a 90 degree joint alter the front pin on the male so it does not cut too deep if its slightly off 90 degrees. Buy quality worktops not cheap DIY which bow and are softer cored. I was asked to do just the worktop joints so many times when people had done their own install but I only did that for people I liked. Must have done thousands in my time. I have a huge box of used 1/2" cutters about 500 from Screwfix that used to be good value and cheap enough not to resharpen. Dust used to be the pain doing these joints it blew every where.
Roofs are definitely less stressful and more room for error :)
Great video mate ! When I do this I never return the router back right to left incase it kicks out but we all have our own ways 👍🏻
I like to make a pass and take waste out with a jigsaw, less stress on the router and saves life abit more on the blade! Like you say everyone has there ways!
@@daz23100 You tight bas.. 😂
@@markrainford1219 try it you'll thank me later 😂
Yes, I do this too.@@daz23100
From an engineers viewpoint, I would want to have a reverse facility on the router and a reverse cutter, that way you could do all the cuts from the top, it would eliminate the errors that could be made when marking out and cutting from the rear.
I never thought a cordless router would have enough power for a worktop. Great idea with the screws for the scrap piece too!!
I always pass 8mm at a time on 40mm tops less stress on everything
Great bit of kit & excellent demo for those not used to doing worktops. Freud bits and blades always the best 👍
I love watching RC and other joiners....even tho I will never ever be doing this type of stuff now.
I’ve used Dewalt and Trend routers over the years and now use a Mafell half inch router for worktops and a cordless Dewalt quarter inch for door hanging. Keen to get my hands on the Hikoki cordless though!
Only piece of advice I’d say to make the cutting of the bolt holes more accurate is USE THE DEPTH STOP. Always have one of the three depth stops set for bolt holes. No margin for error then. All holes set to the exact depth. Great demo vid Robin 👌🏼
I've got the old Screwfix worktop jig and as shown in the vid, it's real easy to set up. About a year ago I also bought the UJK Variable Angle Kitchen Worktop Jig from Axminster Tools and only this Friday it got me out of a bind, as I'd misplaced my 35mm Euro Hinge Cutter. Luckily, UJK have included a "hole" in their jig that allows you to create a perfect 35mm hole using a standard 30mm guide bush.
I’ve been using that same jig for years myself I love how simple it is . My mate has spent loads on different jigs and keeps asking to borrow mine😂
😂 glad to hear you both double double-check and then check again on worktop jigs 😅 thought it was just me. I've just got the red Trend jig with a window for front edge depths of 3mm 5mm 10mm 25mm and standard 35mm amazing jig best one I've had in 35 years
Can’t wait for Milwaukees 1/2” Router to drop, as soon as it does they’ll again be a force to be reckoned with, along with their new M18 Jigsaw that’s coming out next year, apparently it’s a whole new spin on the jigsaw gone back to the drawing board with it.
You wouldn't happen to know what the new jigsaw will be called? Thanks
Robin, I have specialised in decoration of Victorian and older properties. All of the situations such as boxing in pipes as and when necessary to blend in have given me much router experience. Still feel anxiety when doing worktops but one time I was called in by fitter to "cut the tops" as he was unsure/unable/unwilling to cut a "U" Shape room.. Finished job and loading van, was approached by lady next door as her kitchen fitter with all the Festool kit and flashy van was on his THIRD set and even cut the dogbones on the face side! I could not help as just off on hols. We all make mistakes but your experience and also admitting your anxiety for this makes me feel so much better. I do admire the Hi koki but my Makita 3612C has seen me through and may see another generation through. Just gotta get a Trend scribe though... I had never seen one before. I did my apprenticeship in Aircraft Industry so routing, milling and such were second nature but I still need to "think" of turning worktop jig over. Bob Albion Decoration. Weston super Mare)
Brave man. Interesting to hear that even you don't like doing bench tops. I have the jig and all the equipment to do the tops. I can do them. And have done a few. But hate doing them. Nerve racking, horrible job. I fit all the cabinets. But buy my benchtops already mitered. Most people do in Oz. The cabinet makers cut them with a CNC machine. Makes life a lot easier. I used to work for a cabinet maker as a wood machinist. They used to make up the tops from blank bases. Laminate them. Postform them. Then cut any miters and dog bones required. We made them for a lot of different companies because the equipment to do that is very expensive. My jig I brought over from England with me. You can get them here. But not common. Especially in Qld. Some very interesting tips from a professional to make it easier. Where to cut first. And the screw trick on the offcut. The other trick they use that most of us not doing it all the time can't do. Is colour match fit up. He would carry a set of most of the common colours. I have seen the pro boys install on site. What looked a fairly average joint can look a lot better after a bit of Colorfill on the joint. A definite skill. But not one I am in a hurry to perfect.
Lovely router without cables I’m impressed 👍😊
Good idea with the screws holding the offcut cracking router will have to get one I still use my elu 177e I have two of them
great job. carl is a natural infront of the camera. hopefully we see more of him. thats a great router. i have been tempted several time but i keep waiting for dewalt to release there. its getting harder to say no each time.
great bring brother in law on more.
I use a dewalts little battery blower to just get rid of the dust after and use it on my mitre saw with mdf best tool I've brought for years
I plan on moving from bathroom fitting to kitchen this year. Great video, lots of great tips and explanations.
i hired a worktop jig, no instructions and had to work it all out for myself - which was time consuming but valuable as you couldnt take anything for granted, had second guess yourselfall the time.
Great video and what a knowledgable chap! Very impressive
I’m not a fan of PPE, but I find after cutting worktops or end panels on kitchens I get a bit of a tight chest from the dust, so I try to use extraction and a dust mask, Trend stealth about £15 but worth it
Quality job. Looks the business that router. Love a good mitre .
Great video Robin I've not done worktop in a while and got 2 coming up soon.
Brilliant and really great quality and also what a machine just brilliant
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job
Going to get one of these. I'm sick of dealing with cables and its one less tool that requires one.
Brilliant video
Yes it's not difficult but if your not concentrating and taking your time you can mess it up. I've worked with routers for 15 years so my first Mason's miter was easy. Routers look easy to use but they do need experience control knowing what side to start so you don't blow an end out ect. Great video
i also use the howdens jig which i have had for a number of years still in good condition thats because i will never lend it out
Great video as always.
That looks like an impressive router, I’ll stick with my OF2200 but would certainly consider buying one as a back-up. I’m going to try those Freud cutters, I normally use the carbide Trend, which are good to be fair especially as I spray clean mine to remove the resins.
Thank Carl for the tip of cutting the front edge of jig and just going up to the finished edge on score cut & final pass. 👍
Routers aren't designed for doing deep passes, 10mm should be an absolute maximum.
Also, nice safety glasses lol
As a retired kitchen fitter of 30 years I still have the same original Screwfix worktop jig, it was the dogs, with no flex and brilliant for standard widths worktop, I ended up owning 6 different jigs for various widths, Belfast, multiple radii and various other requirements, but still my favourite go to was the old Screwfix…My top tip always let the cutter stop before lifting out, seen many jigs damaged through haste. 227 mean anything to anyone?
Hi, I love your posts and learn a lot from these. I've listened with great interest to the tool selection, set up, and running the router. Even the scenario where Carl mentions a router bit taking off. All the time, Carl is looking at the throat of the router. He has hearing protection on which is commendable. You're righly mentioning how much pride you take in your profession. For pity sake, man watch the eye protection at least.🙄
hello robin did not know that bushboard worktops were that dense but having say that i always use the trend buget cutters and allow one cutter pure joint .....incendently where bushboard is located is in my town of wellingborough still cant get any discounts though 😂
Cordless power...thanks to brushless motors combined obviously with adequate batteries
Always rated the corded Hitachi routers over the Makita's as there is no kick when you switch them off. Now looking to get the Hikoki battery ones for the workshop. I have always preferred Titman router cutters as they have always stood the test for me over the years. The trend work top jig for cutting the butt and scribe/mitre joint is quite good as it has recesses in the surface to put rail cramps into so as not to get in the way of the router. I would very much like to know where chippy's get the idea that the joint is a mason's mitre from. Anyone who knows about stone masonry would know that this type of joint is nothing of the sort, mason's mitres you actually do not cut a mitre; you carve the mitre into the stone or timber if you apply it to joinery. I guess you can call it what you like as long as you make a good job of it, even the latest City & Guilds book now refer to the joint as a Mason's mitre as I guess that is what a lot of chippy's are calling it, but to me it will still be a butt and true mitre, bit like 'clamps' or 'cramps' debate. Great video as usual Robin.
Hi Gary, yes it's a term we have literally stolen from the stone Mason!! Great point
Excellent demo and a nice bit of kit. I am not usually a moaning mini Robin but feel I have to say something about heath and safety here. I had to retire early as a carpenter/joiner due to contracting COPD. I was always a bit gung ho about wearing dust masks as I found them uncomfortable. Some days I couldn't even lift a big old router, let alone make the cuts. You can clearly see the fine dust and God knows what else entering your brother in laws airways,especially when he is cutting the dog bones. Just a few words about my experiences mate, nothing more. Regards Berni
'Cramps'! At 68, I've only just started calling them 'clamps'. Great to hear the old word I've used for 55 years
@@cuebj I have always been a cramper, unfortunately the younger generation only hear what the Americans call them so it's clamps. Still got my Record T-Bar 'cramps' which is what Record described them as in their literature and with a sticker on the side, but hey ho times and language moves on, most of the students I see only know them as clamps so clamps it is.
Unlikely they’re dull it’s more likely they are gummed up with sap or glue slowing them down. polishing compound and a leather strop they’ll be sorted in seconds.
I like to buy some long jigsaw blades. Set the jig up, do one pass with the router. Then rough cut the waste off with the jigsaw and complete the cutting with the router so not trying to cut too much material just cleaning up. Saves loads of £s cutters
Thats always been my preferred method as well, but it's the end result that matters and what works for some won't work for others.
If you drill a couple of holes in your jigsaw base at the correct point, and tap them (or just use nuts at the other side), then you could add a couple of steel dowel pins to your jigsaw, and then run the jigsaw against the jig. Then one final pass with the router.
Or not, either way is fine!
Bit more info please on setting out worktops? What do you do to allow for out of square cuts?
This was also my question. I have only done a couple of DIY fits and the walls have been almost square. Then I just recess worktops to fit them square. But if that can’t be achieved, I presume you create a line on the female top that is perpendicular to the male board and work off that rather than the three pegs in the jig. But one peg at end is presumably needed to position the 45 degree cut?
Ive had that router for a couple of years now its the dogs
I'm a rank amateur DIYer who's trying to figure out how to cut worktop mitres and I'm confused as to how the scribe tool is marking the correct line. There seems to be an offset of several mm from the marked line to the edge of the female joint. What happens to that offset when you align the jig to the scribed line and start cutting?
The compact plastic worktops are far harder, i have done so many of those now. I only cut 2mm at a time with those.
its allways good to run over stuff you allready know. re inforce youd knowledge.by the way, you have a natural teaching abbility there, maybe you should be working teaching britains future kitchen fitters in tech college.great vid.
Very true!
I would do the initial cuts moving in the other direction to use bit rotation to pull the cutter in tight....technically that was a climb cut that could lead to loss of control....I'm no novice with a router but the first worktop I did a pass in the wrong direction and nearly lost the router!
What are the pros and cons of using biscuits?
What size batteries are you using in the router? Thanks
Is it the same way we make joints all the other routers 😂😂😂😂😂
SAFETY GLASSES !!!
Hi Guys, I have the Hikoki router and it's fantastic.
What I will say, on doing research on the router Hikoki says it is the greatest thing since sliced bread for today's kitchen fitter.
And yet, you have to buy the 30mm collet separately. I just don't understand as it's only a fiver 🤔
I will chat with my friends @hikokiuk and see if this can be included in the future
Had Screwfix run out of PPE glasses?
Guessing you're not a pro then!
@@mikejames4271 😀
How did you combat router cutter been longer than copy ring.
I am just wondering, is that bush board hard?
A spiral bit wouldn't do a better job am just asking if anyone has an idea
Great tradesmen, only one criticism, safety glasses, you only have one pair of eyes, like you said , something flew out and hit the blade and smashed a window, could of been your eyes 😢
Hi robin what dust collection like on this router
Pretty good, as long as you have a decent extractor
@@ukconstruction thanks robin im all festool rigged out I’ve got the of2200 router but its a heavy beast great router and we have to do a lot indoors so ill look into it in the new year see if I can get a demo somewhere have a good 🎄 Xmas mate
I’ve had the same jig since I started and it still makes me panic if it’s going to fit right
It's so Stressful Mark!!
Was this the 18volt or 36volt.
I hope your'e correct about this router Robin, i've just ordered one off the back of this vid.👃
It is good Mike!!!
Won't be long before DeWalt do a battery operated 1/2 ins router
Come on man, give him your router since he got you the posh green radio 😂
It's sorted!
@@ukconstruction as in..... you gave it yours? 🤣
Got him a brand new one!!
How many joints per charge do you think iv been looking at it for a while but as im on milwaukee id need batteries and a charger so it a big out lay if its chews through bats
Based on the test I reckon with the battery we had in you could get between three and four joints per charge, many kitchens on would have a couple so it would do most installations on a single battery
@@ukconstruction oh right thats interesting then id have though it would have been a battery monster. Cheer robin you have just cost me £500 plus quid 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@covcarpenter9158Milwaukee about to release a ½ inch cordless router mate so might be worth holding off
Always use colour fill? What's that, some sort of paint for edges?
It's a colour matched paste in a tube that you can apply at the surface of the joint as you are cramping up and it makes the joint almost dissappear
Joint adhesive, I used to use pva and silicone but you get a proper colour matched adhesive nowadays. I think it’s epoxy, it fills any small imperfections and the joint is solid. Need to be get it clamped together with about 15mins though or it starts going off
Joint and sealant compound, we use it all the time
the scribing tool is called the perfect butt by Trend tools
I have had a few hitachi tools and was disappointed with their quality compared to makita.
Quick question. Does anyone ever use a guide bush concentric cone to Centre the guide bush before installing the cutter? I have an old Feud router (really good by the way) but I do find when I put the 30mm guide bush in that there can be some discrepancies which ultimately effect the result of the cut. Not done loads of these tbh but odd one has had a slight difference in them. Been looking at a concentric cone to try eliminating this. Anyone else use them or is it just standard and I’ve been doing them wrong?
On the Hikoki you can only fix the bush in one position so no adjusting is needed.
I often jigsaw off the end of the male piece (through the jig) and them route along the jig.. saves the cutter. Dreadfull really!m
so even the pros make mistakes
Robin trying to get views from all the stoners
What are the tattoos both of you have they look the same
Robin's says "Carl", and Carl's says "Robin".
no eye protection? shame on you
“Whether I’m on price work or day work” comment indicates you have 2 standards of working my friend, not a good advert
Could be 2 ‘Methods’ of working with the same standard/quality of work when finished.
Not really. If your spending a day at a particular location and fitting a worktop as part of that, it's bound to be cheaper than a single call out, which could cost half a day or more in lost time.
I was looking forward to robin gifting Carl that router at the end but it never came 😢
Not on camera, I have one coming!!
If you pull the router back through isn't there risk of it chipping the front edge?
Yes, I saw that too. You are correct.