there is also a rough parallax correction/compensation for rolleiflex cameras. if you zoom in and out, youll see a black mask going up or down so you can see whats in frame. its fairly accurate for framing even if youre using rolleinars for close-ups.
Of course not all Delta 3200 has the issue with the spots. It's caused by storing the exposed film in an excessively humid environment. Especially in a place like SG, I'd recommend storing your exposed film in a zip-loc bag together with some silica gel packets, in the fridge or freezer (and still try to develop them as soon as possible).
thanks for the tips! i bought it from the store, shot it and developed in within 1 day, but the issue still happened... there are official ilford articles published (eg. at www.ilfordphoto.com/updated-120-roll-film-statement/) that confirm this... ilford themselves do attribute it to heat and humidity as you mentioned, but i believe there is indeed an issue on their end.
As someone who use various TLRs (Rollei, Yashica, Mamiya etc) for years... sometimes I still think TLR is an awkward concept. I mean two lenses... why? Because you may experience parallax correction (which not a TLR-specific issue, rangefinders also have that) and obviously two lenses means bulkier camera. For low angle shooting, of course TLRs are very handy.
those downsides exist for sure, but the lack of a mirror and the nature of 6x6 cameras being the most efficient (uses the most of the image circle) makes me treasure the TLR form factor. i'll probably default to my rolleiflex if i ever want to shoot squares - an unconventional aspect ratio for an unconventional camera, i suppose. i might get a hassie with A16 backs for a more versatile medium format system :)
@@guywithfilm I think usually this washed out effect is caused by lens fungus (or otherwise dirty lens internals / back element, but mostly it's fungus). You can see it easily if you set the max aperture and open the shutter (in B mode), and look through the opened back of the camera, pointing the lens towards a bright light source or the sky. Cleaning the fungus may be theoretically possible, if you want it hard enough, but it's not easy to do (you have to dismantle the camera and your lens and then ideally, put it back together); and with time the fungus may have etched the glass (and then it's not possible to fix at all). Your best bet is to check for it before you buy a camera.
i did check it that way as you suggested; just hold the shutter open on bulb mode and look towards a light source. i couldn't see fungus though. no idea oops
@ really? That is odd, cause i have like 3 seagull cameras and i get great results, no artifacts at all. Could the film you used had been ruined or anything of the sort?
I really like your content and it's nice to see that there are more film photography creators emerging nowadays
hell yeah, thanks so much for the support :)
I love 6x6. And these Rolleis are fantastic! Can't wait for you to end up with a Hassie!
thanks for the support! i can't wait to end up with a hassie too :)
Nice review!
thank you for the support!
there is also a rough parallax correction/compensation for rolleiflex cameras. if you zoom in and out, youll see a black mask going up or down so you can see whats in frame. its fairly accurate for framing even if youre using rolleinars for close-ups.
interesting... i think my model lacks that feature. would love to see how it works!
crazy good content
thanks g :)
Of course not all Delta 3200 has the issue with the spots. It's caused by storing the exposed film in an excessively humid environment. Especially in a place like SG, I'd recommend storing your exposed film in a zip-loc bag together with some silica gel packets, in the fridge or freezer (and still try to develop them as soon as possible).
thanks for the tips! i bought it from the store, shot it and developed in within 1 day, but the issue still happened... there are official ilford articles published (eg. at www.ilfordphoto.com/updated-120-roll-film-statement/) that confirm this... ilford themselves do attribute it to heat and humidity as you mentioned, but i believe there is indeed an issue on their end.
As someone who use various TLRs (Rollei, Yashica, Mamiya etc) for years... sometimes I still think TLR is an awkward concept. I mean two lenses... why? Because you may experience parallax correction (which not a TLR-specific issue, rangefinders also have that) and obviously two lenses means bulkier camera.
For low angle shooting, of course TLRs are very handy.
those downsides exist for sure, but the lack of a mirror and the nature of 6x6 cameras being the most efficient (uses the most of the image circle) makes me treasure the TLR form factor. i'll probably default to my rolleiflex if i ever want to shoot squares - an unconventional aspect ratio for an unconventional camera, i suppose. i might get a hassie with A16 backs for a more versatile medium format system :)
Here before 1 mil
HELL YEAH
cool video! ilford will make it right if you contact them
thanks for the support! i guess i'll just stay away from delta 3200 for now. pushing hp5 seems to yield better results anyway :)
" Freedom units " because the metric system is just to straight forward and easy to understand.....?
i love freedom and the usa 🦅🦅🦅 o say can you see 🦅🦅🦅
Your Seagull tlr lenses have issues. It's not a Seagull issue just yours.
i see. man that sucks, i was looking forward to liking the seagull. maybe that's why the thrift store guy let it go for so cheap
@@guywithfilm I think usually this washed out effect is caused by lens fungus (or otherwise dirty lens internals / back element, but mostly it's fungus). You can see it easily if you set the max aperture and open the shutter (in B mode), and look through the opened back of the camera, pointing the lens towards a bright light source or the sky.
Cleaning the fungus may be theoretically possible, if you want it hard enough, but it's not easy to do (you have to dismantle the camera and your lens and then ideally, put it back together); and with time the fungus may have etched the glass (and then it's not possible to fix at all). Your best bet is to check for it before you buy a camera.
i did check it that way as you suggested; just hold the shutter open on bulb mode and look towards a light source. i couldn't see fungus though. no idea oops
@ really? That is odd, cause i have like 3 seagull cameras and i get great results, no artifacts at all. Could the film you used had been ruined or anything of the sort?
the film i used was fresh. i have no clue about my seagull haha. either ways it's a nice display piece now