Thank you for this! I was able to change mine thanks to this video and others. I paid $12.99 for the sensor itself and would have paid a garage over $400. On a side note, I called around and Auto Zone and Advanced Auto parts had the sensor for around $70-$100. A&A Auto had it for $12.99. I’m so grateful for videos like these.
Probably the best how-to mechanic video I've ever seen. Excellent job buddy. You never dismissed any part of the job that the common DIYer might struggle with or not understand fully, and you made sure to get a good shot of everything. 10/10🙏
I'm no mechanic by any means but I was able to follow this video step by step to replace the part. Every step was detailed from explaining how to lift the car to gotchas like making sure the O ring came out. The camera work showed exactly where the part was, how to remove and how to replace. This job took me about 1.5 hours but your mileage may vary. $20 part and 2 hours of my time was worth what I could have paid the local auto shop.
Great video. You included important detail on pushing on the tiny button to release the connector. I could not see this on my car when trying to figure how to take it off. Its the details like this that really help. Thanks very much
I followed your video STEP-BY-STEP!! Thank you for the angles, zooming in, and the very detailed walkthrough of every part changing this piece out!! Bought my part from the Hyundai Dealer and all the tools needed and look forward with confidence to upgrading and maintaining my baby 🥳🥳 Don’t be afraid to attempt and work on your our vehicles folks! With detailed videos like this there’s no way you can mess up 🤙🏽 Take your time, don’t rush, don’t put too much pressure on yourself also 🤌🏾 MUCH LOVE FROM PHX, AZ
Great video dude! The part was under $100 and took only 15 minutes to complete the repair. The hardest thing was getting that electrical connector off since the clip you need to depress is on the underside of the switch so I did everything from under the vehicle. Elanta 2016
Great camera work. Great video! I'd like to see more of ur diagnosing part. I dont even OWN a Hyundai, but always enjoy ur videos. (Ur kid sounds cute, ur a good dad). 👍
Great video and thanks for sharing. I used it to change the CSP sensor on my friends 2012 Elantra. Step by step. The hardest part was trying to get the electoral connection separated. Also thanks for the tip on using the screwdriver pick to press that tab on the connector. Worked perfect. On a side note, it looks like of someone needs more room then they can remove the airbox and have a little more space to work with on dealing with the connectors.
Just did this on my girlfriends car after watching your video and wanted to thank you so much man!! Really helped out a lot and those camera angles 😩😩👍🏽 great job
Just had this issue on my wife’s car. After inspecting the sensor it seemed fine. It had metal particles on the end. So rather than buying a new part I just cleaned the sensor, flushed the motor and did an oil change. Car works now, only thing I would have done differently would be to remove the sump and clean it. The car was super low on oil so I think that created excess particles and the sensor was picking those up and screwing with the readings.
Your issue was more likely due to the low oil problem. Cleaning these sensors probably doesn’t do anything unless it’s covered with metal bits. When your oil is low the variable valve timing won’t be able to activate properly and cause a code like this. For these codes always check the oil first and if it’s low deal with that and see what happens
P0016 elantra crankshaft position ,camshaft position,correlation bank 1 sensor A.Checked timing chain all good at tdc nothing went out of alignment everthing is good ,had to boost battery cause my daughter let it sit for months .It starts but you have to play with fuel to keep it going .Sounds like a crankshaft sensor replacement
Great instructions, thank you. Just like in the video, my o-ring was stuck inside and it came right out with the pick. It was very easy getting it out but for the life of me I can not get the sensor back in. No matter how much I push and twist it, it still has a gap about 1/8 to 3/16. Any ideas on how I can overcome this? I didn't realize this at first and cracked the sensor, the replacement sensor just arrived. BTW how you were able to film AND do the work is beside me. Very impressive.
As a test I took the o-ring off and it slid right in. For all of you located in a colder climate, because the o-ring was so cold it just wasn't compressing. I covered it with oil and hit it with the heat gun and it slid right in.
I did everything you showed and car is good now. Only thing I didn't do was get the part from dealership. Hyundai was really going to try to scam me for $200 for part that I got from an auto store for $80. So, I went all in and raised up side of car - the wrong side lol, but I was still able to get under there and reach sensor. Don’t have a Milwaukee ratchet wrench so just used a regular ratchet, got that bolt out. Hardest part was trying to get harness unclipped (Good God😫) but eventually it gave. Got old sensor out, put new one in, started her up and she ran fine. Just hoping I'm not gonna have anymore issues or surprises in the following days and weeks.
@@Falcons4Death Thanks for asking. Actually I no longer have the car because the classic engine tick that Hyundai gets was getting louder a few months ago, and they would not replace my engine even though their web page said I qualified for it. So I had to trade it in. But before that the car was still running fine after I replaced the sensor. One thing is for sure though: I'll never get a Hyundai again.
Bro! I have a question for you. In the case of my Elantra, the two cables which go to the sensor are not in the same order. I mean, in the video the red cable is on the left and the green on the right, in my car are in reverse order. Red on the right and green on the left. I know that both cables have 2.5v. Does it affect?
I can start it if i unplug the sensor and it stays running if i plug it in, but the tach won't work, then if i turn it off it wikk just crank a million times
Jabo, you said buy it from the dealer how much was it about? Also you quickly said something about metal being in it means the engine is going? I think that is what you said? What would make metal be in there?
Question, why was the reason your change the crank sensor, am having a issue where I have trouble starting the car then after 3 times its starts but the rpms are 0 when I press the gas same model car as the vid
Jabo, great video - thank you. One question: You say to only use OEM CKP sensors. Is there a real demonstrable difference or is this just an opinion? I replaced mine on a 2013 Elantra GT and couldn't get rid of the code. I got the sensor from another brand on Rock Auto. Do you think an OEM sensor will fix the code problem?
Hi how are you ? I am in need of help . I got so many things fixed on my car and I can’t figure out the problem. My check engine light is on been on for months . But when I check the codes I am getting P0017 crank shaft but beginning of February I got the crank and camshaft fixed and got my throttle body cleaned . But I keep having the same problem when my car is stopped the idle goes up and down and then it jerks then the car shuts off . Sometimes when I mess with air controls it messes with it . When I put my car in neutral sometimes it stops not always . My car is hard to start.
Thank you for this! I was able to change mine thanks to this video and others. I paid $12.99 for the sensor itself and would have paid a garage over $400.
On a side note, I called around and Auto Zone and Advanced Auto parts had the sensor for around $70-$100. A&A Auto had it for $12.99.
I’m so grateful for videos like these.
Probably the best how-to mechanic video I've ever seen. Excellent job buddy. You never dismissed any part of the job that the common DIYer might struggle with or not understand fully, and you made sure to get a good shot of everything. 10/10🙏
I'm no mechanic by any means but I was able to follow this video step by step to replace the part. Every step was detailed from explaining how to lift the car to gotchas like making sure the O ring came out. The camera work showed exactly where the part was, how to remove and how to replace. This job took me about 1.5 hours but your mileage may vary. $20 part and 2 hours of my time was worth what I could have paid the local auto shop.
Great video. You included important detail on pushing on the tiny button to release the connector. I could not see this on my car when trying to figure how to take it off. Its the details like this that really help. Thanks very much
I followed your video STEP-BY-STEP!!
Thank you for the angles, zooming in, and the very detailed walkthrough of every part changing this piece out!!
Bought my part from the Hyundai Dealer and all the tools needed and look forward with confidence to upgrading and maintaining my baby 🥳🥳
Don’t be afraid to attempt and work on your our vehicles folks! With detailed videos like this there’s no way you can mess up 🤙🏽
Take your time, don’t rush, don’t put too much pressure on yourself also 🤌🏾
MUCH LOVE FROM PHX, AZ
The camera work on this video is fantastic!. Just replaced mine in no time.
5 starts for big dad 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Great video dude! The part was under $100 and took only 15 minutes to complete the repair. The hardest thing was getting that electrical connector off since the clip you need to depress is on the underside of the switch so I did everything from under the vehicle. Elanta 2016
Yep. Best mechanic how to video ive ever seen in my 20 years of wrenching
Thanks dude. This one replaced on my Elatra. Good to see how it was done.
You are welcome
Great camera work. Great video! I'd like to see more of ur diagnosing part. I dont even OWN a Hyundai, but always enjoy ur videos. (Ur kid sounds cute, ur a good dad). 👍
Yessir just changed it. Thanks my check engine went off instantly after I changed it.
That’s the best video and explanation that I’ve ever heard from a car mechanic ❤❤❤
All the with you and your little kids brother ❤
Great video and thanks for sharing. I used it to change the CSP sensor on my friends 2012 Elantra. Step by step. The hardest part was trying to get the electoral connection separated. Also thanks for the tip on using the screwdriver pick to press that tab on the connector. Worked perfect. On a side note, it looks like of someone needs more room then they can remove the airbox and have a little more space to work with on dealing with the connectors.
Best video I followed it and I fixed my car thank you so much brother
Thanks for going into detail about the leftover O-ring and clip for the top connector.
Thanks, this video really helped. I have 5 kids 😆 great job with the kids.
just replaced the one on mine, thanks bro starts right away, RPMs are on display !!!
It is the best explanation I have seen, thank you very much friend
Just did this on my girlfriends car after watching your video and wanted to thank you so much man!! Really helped out a lot and those camera angles 😩😩👍🏽 great job
Just had this issue on my wife’s car. After inspecting the sensor it seemed fine. It had metal particles on the end. So rather than buying a new part I just cleaned the sensor, flushed the motor and did an oil change. Car works now, only thing I would have done differently would be to remove the sump and clean it. The car was super low on oil so I think that created excess particles and the sensor was picking those up and screwing with the readings.
Your issue was more likely due to the low oil problem. Cleaning these sensors probably doesn’t do anything unless it’s covered with metal bits. When your oil is low the variable valve timing won’t be able to activate properly and cause a code like this. For these codes always check the oil first and if it’s low deal with that and see what happens
Helped out huge! thanks! I didnt have a hooked pic but had a straight one and still worked, hard job with big hands forsure.
Great camera work man. I’m gonna be doing this on Friday when my crankshaft sensor comes in
Perfect vid. Saved me hundreds of $
The best video so far 10/10 thanks
Ty man thought this was gonna be stressful
EXCELLENT TUTORIAL, DUDE.
Awesome tutorial perfect for the do it yourself mechanic
Excellent and very detailed video. I have the same issue and I’m going to attempt to replace the sensor.
Awesome job, video and instructions…well done, Thanks!👍😎
Great video. Very helpful and saved me money.
P0016 elantra crankshaft position ,camshaft position,correlation bank 1 sensor A.Checked timing chain all good at tdc nothing went out of alignment everthing is good ,had to boost battery cause my daughter let it sit for months .It starts but you have to play with fuel to keep it going .Sounds like a crankshaft sensor replacement
Great instructions, thank you. Just like in the video, my o-ring was stuck inside and it came right out with the pick. It was very easy getting it out but for the life of me I can not get the sensor back in. No matter how much I push and twist it, it still has a gap about 1/8 to 3/16. Any ideas on how I can overcome this? I didn't realize this at first and cracked the sensor, the replacement sensor just arrived. BTW how you were able to film AND do the work is beside me. Very impressive.
As a test I took the o-ring off and it slid right in. For all of you located in a colder climate, because the o-ring was so cold it just wasn't compressing. I covered it with oil and hit it with the heat gun and it slid right in.
Thank you for your video! It helped out alot.
Exactly what I was looking for work a helpful video. Easy subscribe. Thanks a ton🙏
Tackling this tomorrow, appreciate ya man
Your welcome anytime!
Rough one to diagnose too, seems like the ECU doesn't hold on to the error code for too long
I did everything you showed and car is good now. Only thing I didn't do was get the part from dealership. Hyundai was really going to try to scam me for $200 for part that I got from an auto store for $80. So, I went all in and raised up side of car - the wrong side lol, but I was still able to get under there and reach sensor. Don’t have a Milwaukee ratchet wrench so just used a regular ratchet, got that bolt out.
Hardest part was trying to get harness unclipped (Good God😫) but eventually it gave. Got old sensor out, put new one in, started her up and she ran fine. Just hoping I'm not gonna have anymore issues or surprises in the following days and weeks.
Is it still running fine, the auto parts store website says some brands need to be relearned?
@@Falcons4Death Thanks for asking. Actually I no longer have the car because the classic engine tick that Hyundai gets was getting louder a few months ago, and they would not replace my engine even though their web page said I qualified for it. So I had to trade it in. But before that the car was still running fine after I replaced the sensor. One thing is for sure though: I'll never get a Hyundai again.
"You're killing me, smalls. You're killing me." 😂
Extremely helpful!!!!
Would this be the same part number for a 2013 Hyundai accent ?
wow ! awesome thank you so much 🙂
How long can I drive the vehicle with this issue (crankshaft sensor) would it messed up some parts of the vehicle if I don't fixed it right away?
This video is so helpful... I have a question... If we replace the sensor and don't have a code scanner to erase the code .. what happens?
Replaced the sensor on my daughters '13 Accent and the car still has the same problem. Maybe camshaft sensor next?
In addition to the symptoms mentioned, can this cause the tach to not work?
Yes it can. My Hyundai Elantra is a 6 speed manual. A stick shift and it caused my RPM'S to get stuck
2015 Elantra, cylinder auto… bad crankshaft position sensor caused intermittent tach problems, and stumbling and low power.
Bro! I have a question for you. In the case of my Elantra, the two cables which go to the sensor are not in the same order. I mean, in the video the red cable is on the left and the green on the right, in my car are in reverse order. Red on the right and green on the left. I know that both cables have 2.5v. Does it affect?
Does the car turn engine light on when this code is thrown?
Hello, I just change the sensor with no issues, but now the car does not start, what could it be?
Me too did you figure it out
I can start it if i unplug the sensor and it stays running if i plug it in, but the tach won't work, then if i turn it off it wikk just crank a million times
Jabo, you said buy it from the dealer how much was it about? Also you quickly said something about metal being in it means the engine is going? I think that is what you said? What would make metal be in there?
I think this is my problem…
Does it also affect the rpm gauge?
Question, can I just remove my battery negative if I’m at home or will I have to go to AutoZone and finagle them into clearing my codes?
Question, why was the reason your change the crank sensor, am having a issue where I have trouble starting the car then after 3 times its starts but the rpms are 0 when I press the gas same model car as the vid
What if I don’t have the tool to clear da code once I replace this sensor then what do I do
Thank you
How much it cost with labor for this work I have this problem
fantastic
Replaced camshaft, and crankshaft. Still stalling every 2-3 days. Any idea what it could be now?
Where did you buy the sensors from
During the events before stalling does your rpm goes to 0 (zero), But still running and acceleration is poor?
Yes
How much does it cost to have mechanic do this?
Jabo, great video - thank you. One question: You say to only use OEM CKP sensors. Is there a real demonstrable difference or is this just an opinion? I replaced mine on a 2013 Elantra GT and couldn't get rid of the code. I got the sensor from another brand on Rock Auto. Do you think an OEM sensor will fix the code problem?
Hi how are you ?
I am in need of help . I got so many things fixed on my car and I can’t figure out the problem. My check engine light is on been on for months . But when I check the codes I am getting P0017 crank shaft but beginning of February I got the crank and camshaft fixed and got my throttle body cleaned . But I keep having the same problem when my car is stopped the idle goes up and down and then it jerks then the car shuts off . Sometimes when I mess with air controls it messes with it . When I put my car in neutral sometimes it stops not always . My car is hard to start.
Did you get this figured out?
Hi, i really enjoyed this video. You're profissional. I hold like to work with you.
I just tried this and the bolt broke am i cooked?? lol.
this going to take me 3 hours to do.
took me about 1.5 hours.
@@mustaffa1611took me about 40 min
Good vid here
if r.p.m not move when you start car = crankshaft sensor is damage . result the engine not work
Please my rpm is not working
good
I have 2 Codes P0463 and P0335
your car engin is so dirty
It worked. Thanks coach 🫡