ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- This video solves the issue of clutch moan or chatter resulting from buildup of clutch dust in the assembly.
To Get The Job Done:
Hex Metric Socket Set: amzn.to/3kM0KqY
Hex Metric and SAE Socket Set: amzn.to/30XCpqB
Hex T-Wrench Set: amzn.to/2Y1bGHI
Digital Caliper: amzn.to/2Y1HpIM
PROTECTIVE GEAR:
-Face Masks: amzn.to/3D0zCiW
-Safety Goggles: amzn.to/3fZQfNq
-Safety Goggles (2-Pack): amzn.to/2PX2eR5
-Ear Protection Ear Muffs: amzn.to/3QOBMrq
-Ear Plugs: amzn.to/3CZJHfR
-Shop Gloves: amzn.to/3aGzAgV
-Nitrile Gloves (6-mil): amzn.to/3awjyWQ
→ Become a ScubaMoto Subscriber - goo.gl/iAwSQc
→ If this video helped, please give a thumbs up and subscribe for future videos
→ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. Win!
→ Business Inquiries email: scubamoto@outlook.com
→ Support this channel - goo.gl/iAwSQc
#ducati. #ducaticlutch - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
The exact video I was looking for!
I WAS REALLY WORRIED THAT WAS SOMETHING BAD ON MY 1098.....I CAN MANAGE THIS NO PROBLEM....THANL YOU!!!!!
Nice explanation..thanks
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment.
What substance to use for cleaning'?
I had many disks stuck together + rust. I hope the cleaning will solve the problem as well
Okay so it got wet. Of course it's always best to separate and dry out before putting her to bed. I recommend separating them using the engine, if possible, before pulling them out. If that doesn't work; I know some use spray lubricants and lithium grease when cleaning. If the damage is severe, I would thank the clutch for its service and consider moving on to the next. For cleaning, I have had success using only what's in the video. I hope that helps and good luck with it.
Clutch on my 1098 gave out so I replaced it. Never did the moan until I replaced with a Barnett set. Brand new set and squawks pretty hard to the point where I feel like in going to stall. What else can I check?
When you mention it "feels like it's going to stall" after a new clutch install, the first thing that comes to mind is clutch fluid. When was the last clutch fluid flush? You may have a small amount of air in the clutch fluid preventing a full disengagement. You wouldn't have noticed it with the old clutch because you had plenty of lever before the clutch engaged. Now, with a new clutch, you don't have as much throw or travel on disengaging the clutch so it may drag slightly (this would quickly cause chatter from dust buildup) and it could also cause stalling, particularly on start up when she's cold. I hope that helps.
@@ScubaMoto I did try to purge, but that made the clutch softer. It makes sense now, I probably purge it incorrectly. I did measure the used stack of plates vs the old one and there was about a 3mm difference so that also makes sense. Thank you very much, you have been more helpful in one reply than any forum i've been participating in the past week!
bubupianisimo: You are very welcome, I'm glad I could help. Keep the rubber side down.
What about the gaskets? How many are in the clutch? Is it just the one outter gasket for the clutch cover?
Yes. The bike in the video doesn't have a clutch cover, so no gaskets involved in this video. If you have one and the gasket gets damaged, they're usually available for about $20.
@@ScubaMoto so there is no inter gasket inside the dry clutch? The dealership is trying to charge me 500 to replace an inter gasket inside the dry clutch. Which I had a feel was a hustle. I ride a 2006 ducati 999s.
Maybe I'm not understanding the scope of your job, but even if you pull the basket and the drum, it's just o-rings. No gasket.
@@ScubaMoto yeah so the dealership is definitely quoting me for a part that doesn't exist. So glad I double checked with multiple people. Just saved me alittle over 500 bucks.
So if it's not the clutch cover, then they could be referring to some o-rings. Sometimes shops refer to o-rings as gaskets. I don't know why. If so there are still several possibilities that they are telling the truth. It's possible they are referring to the o-rings on the control rod. But there's really no labor in that; $500 would seem excessive. It's also possible that they are referring to the o-rings behind the basket. The labor to remove and replace the drum and basket to get to those could be worth some money but I can't imagine why they would replace those unless you had a leak or something. Good luck with it.
I'm getting that same clutch moan noise when coming from a stop, in first slowly release the clutch annnnnd moan ..... No one has be able to help me diagnose the noise. My clutch is brand spanking new, you think it's clutch dust? I feel like it's not possible that my disk is glazed as I baby the hell out of the clutch and granny shift like no tomorrow.
C HS: So your plates and discs are all new? Is it open cover or enclosed? Is there much dust visible? Are the basket and barrel new as well? How do the barrel and basket look? Sometimes the baskets get hammer marks (dents) that can cause the friction discs to hang up a bit. I'm pretty sure that would have been noticed when replacing your clutch but it is another possibility. The bike in the video has the Barnett Kevlar and it still generates a lot of dust quickly, so it doesn't take long for it to develop. If I blow it out occasionally, I don't have to pull and clean it as often. When I rescued it, the bike had moan so bad it was fingernails on chalk with a side of chatter. I seriously wish I had recorded the streaks and burns on the plates caused by accumulated dust. The 320 did the trick on the plate burns and scotch-brite fixed the discs.
@@ScubaMoto I probably should have specified all this but I drive a wrangler, the entire clutch assembly was replaced including the throw out bearing. I guess my question is, is contamination the only cause of clutch groan?
@@chs9627 Oh, so it's not a Ducati but a Jeep Wrangler? Yes that changes things a bit. Your problem is NOT likely caused by accumulated clutch dust. If you've been mudding through rivers and such, it could be a build up of debris but it's likely another issue. Was the pressure plate replaced with the clutch? How many miles on the vehicle? How many miles on the transmission? A loose transmission input shaft bushing/seal could be the issue. The rear main seal could also be a problem. Can you see any signs of fluid leaks in the bell housing area? Any tranny fluid or engine oil contamination could cause the symptoms you describe.
@@ScubaMoto Was 100% flying through mud pits way faster than I should have been, to the point I had mud dripping into the HVAC blower somehow. I wouldn't be surprised if some mud got up into the bell housing... The wrangler has 20k miles on it, literally the whole clutch assembly was replaced(pressure plate, fly wheel, etc.), noise started after the mud pits like a week or so after, clutch has less than 5k miles on it. No fluids leaking, stuck a scope cam up there and can confirm. What prompted the clutch replacement was a RMS leak ....
C HS: First of all; major Kudos to you for using your Jeep for its intended purpose. It's increasingly rare. My guess on the mud now sounds likely. But the problem with mud is that it's basically liquid sandpaper. Once it gets into a clutch and T/O bearing, the damage gets bad fast and you usually have to replace them. Sorry to say but you can try blasting it clean after mudding but it's near impossible to get everything out. Most stories I've heard are eventual replacement but I would attempt cleaning first. It does sound kind of fast for a failure but if it coincided with your mud pit fun then that is likely the cause. So . . . the solution is to hit the mud pits HARD! Film it, have a blast and get the most out of it. Then it will be worth replacing things again ;-D
Try telescopic magnets next time,too easy!!!
So what do you go by when doing the springs? I was always told it’s vital that you use a torque wrench... and the one time I didn’t use one a couple of springs came undone lol but I was also lead to believe the friction plates will wear unevenly if they’re not pretty spot on..? Idk
Zach A: Thank for the question. The manual for this model doesn't specifically list a torque setting for the clutch spring bolt but I have seen 6Nm mentioned and I've also seen 5 ft-lbs used by some as I mention in the video. I do have an Inch-pound torque wrench, but my preference is to hand tighten the spring bolts to precisely "quite snug". No torque wrenches on the spring bolts for me. If the torque on one spring bolt was 4ft-lbs and another was 6ft-lbs, it could not have any effect on how the friction discs or pressure plates interact. That is determined by the spring load and by what the combined height of the clutch stack as measured with the caliper. I believe that uneven wear on friction discs would most likely be caused by a hammered surface of the clutch basket where the lobes of the discs slide in and out when engaged and disengaged. A hammered surface prevents them from sliding smoothly and evenly along the basket. Thanks for taking the time to comment and for sharing.
ScubaMoto thank you for your insight brother! Ducati guys are hard to find where I live, so It’s appreciated
Hi Scuba.
Was wandering if you could help me with my clutch issue (still learning)
Bike is a Ducati 1098.
Noticed it was almost stalling Everytime I came to a stop and occasionally did. Got it up on the stand and put it in gear. Rear wheel turning relatively quickly even with the clutch disengaged, initial thoughts were bleeding slave cylinder and master, managed to get a fair bit of air out it did help slightly however the bike was still rotating its wheel more then normal. To the point of where I feel it would stall me still. If I squeezed the lever really really hard could almost get the wheel to stop. So bled some more etc, still not having it. I then wound the clutch springs out a fair bit eventually this worked and got the wheel to stop spinning, but now the springs are so far out that I fear it’s too much to engage it correctly. That and the clutch cover can’t fit on now due to the spring height being so much. I am abit stuck as to my knowledge the springs should not be far out really yet I can’t seem to sort this issue out. Could it be due to clutch plate wear or something else that I am perhaps overlooking?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Dan
PL-Shep: Are you planning to ride the bike with the clutch spring bolts backed out? Have you already done the cleaning procedure shown in my video? If you bled all air out of the lines, then I would expect a cleaning like this video would help. I hope that helps.
@@ScubaMoto Planning on cleaning the plates first but no wont ride with bolts backed out but do want to be riding asap
PL - Shep: BTW, nice bike. Some gear drag is normal in all bikes. When up on a stand, nearly all bikes will have some drag causing the rear wheel to spin with clutch disengaged or even in neutral. This is particularly noticeable on those with wet clutches but all transmissions have some drag even with dry clutches. The gear drag should be strongest when the bike is cold, and as it warms up, it should be reduced as the gear oil warms up. In your case, you say it was stalling out the bike and you mention it got better as you removed air from the clutch line.
If the bike can now idle in gear with the clutch disengaged you should be fine. Once you clean the discs/plates, it will be even better. But remember, when it's on the stand; the rear wheel may always have a tendency to spin a small amount simply from normal transmission drag. Again, even more so when cold. As long as it doesn't kill your idle in traffic, it's not a problem.
I really love Ducati motorcycles, but damn i really hate the dry clutch sound :(
The sound is the best part of it.