Your comment about Tightbond III yeah it's s very strong. Used it to dowel and glue a flight of treads (3 piece Mahogany tread) I had to repair a riser, the glue on the treads still holds it like a solid piece of wood after 12 years installed.
Loved the "nearly perfect" line. I had to learn that is usually the sweet spot. Regarding file names; in two weeks I would forget what "sports complex" actually means. I have learnt to use fulsome names like "Burlingame Lawn sports complex" or "one way arrow". It is long but there is no guessing what the job is later on. For offsetting for tiling I would add an attachable extension 25" from the front edge of the work area and a 25" stick. Position the front edge against the stick, do job, remove stick, and voila, correctly shifted without drilling a hole.
@@bargerwoodworking6703 My apologies; I tend to speak as a precis! Instead of using a precisely located hole and trying to align it to the reference for the second tile, and having a hole to repair, I would either hinge or have attachable, depending on your bench front, a table extension. On it I would mount a full width edge the table work depth from the front edge of your zero line, say 25". I would then cut an mdf spacer board exactly 25" deep. In use you have the spacer in place, butt the work to it, and carve the first tile. It is where it would be without the extension. Remove the mdf, move the work forward to the outrigger edge, and it is perfectly positioned for the second tile. This only relies on the reference edge being straight. Alternatively there is a second way if your software allows it. The workboard must have parallel edges for this. Carve the first tile then spin the board 180 degrees. In the software spin the job around 180 degrees, recompute the path and cut the remainder as a second 'first' tile. This technique relies on the job being centred on the board. Have fun.
Another really nice video! If I may, one thing you can do where the letters were just so close to the line. In vectric, you can choose the "text spacing" which is 3 over from the text toolbox item. This will also help to just inch over those letters at the line and achieve a safer transition in the tiling! Great work! Keep it up! I'm also in NC (near Lake Norman)!
Just found your channel. I've been making signs off and on for awhile now on my XXL same program and just upgrading belt z to hdz this week. I noticed the grain in the wood and from my experience you get a much flatter and stays flatter sign if you flip grain so they don't grow or shrink the same way over time. Also if you are cutting say a 34 inch sign in vcarve desktop change the tile height to say 17 inches that leaves only 17 inch overhang instead of 25 inches off bed. Or even 10 inch on first tile if that's possible. Great video and I'm not picking on your work it looks great. 👍👍 subd
Thanks Mike! I have a lot to learn about tiling. It was very difficult to match up the x and y axis exactly. Need to figure out a better way. Really appreciate your comments!
@@bargerwoodworking6703 the x is really hard to get right, I usually try to zero off the same point everytime close to center of sign if possible or zero off of the bed if stock is really flat like good 3/4 burch ply. I use the bit zero v1. The y I figured out by mounting fence down the y axis then manually using a 1/4 endmill and running the machine down the y so it is perfectly straight with the y axis on the cnc. Makes it so the y can't be off if it is butted up to the y fence . Hope this makes sense to ya. Lol anyway its all fun keep the vids coming. 👍
Absolutely marvelous video!!! I just stumbled upon you today and I thoroughly enjoyed the "Do Not Enter" sign video and this one. You're very good at CNC instruction since I am just learning Vectric. We have almost the same setup but my Shapeoko is from 2018. How do you like the Z-Plus? Was it an upgrade for you? Also, what little computer do you have that's running the machine? Finally, I love the collet wrench suggestion. What collet do I need to track down to fit the DWP611 like you have? Many thanks!!! - Scott
I love the Z-Plus. Ordered it with the machine. The collet was from Inventables here’s the link: www.inventables.com/technologies/dewalt-611-precision-grade-collet I also ordered the wrench from them. Here's the link for the tablet...I love it! Been using it for two years and no problems...amzn.to/3eodcek Also...here's a link to a video about the table that convinced me to order it... th-cam.com/video/UoOQHKB3W2s/w-d-xo.html
This was a great tutorial, really useful information. This is my first video I’ve watched of yours so far. Curious about the touch screen you are using. Do you mind sharing information on that? Thanks again, great job on this video.
Purchased the tablet on Amazon, about $200. 10" Windows 10 Fusion5 FWIN232 Plus S1 Ultra Slim Windows Tablet PC - (4GB RAM, USB 3.0, Micro HDMI, Intel Quad-Core CPU, IPS HD Display, 5MP and 2MP Cameras, Bluetooth 4.0, Windows 10 S) (64GB)
@@bargerwoodworking6703 if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Surprised cost is a factor considering all the top of the line tools you’ve got, I’m so cheap I still use an old 6”short bed craftsman jointer I got years ago for $100. Sometimes it works out though, saved a ton buying the wen track saw instead of the festool and it works just as well (aside from dust collection)
Wow looks great. Wonder if I can TILE on my CARVECO, maybe. Will have to ask. My table cuts X is 15.75 and Y is 11.81 but the table Y is 20. I have a Genmitsu PROVerXL 4030.
If the wood is too wet…like 12% or higher, the paint won’t stick for very long. I’m now redoing some signs that I jumped the gun and painted them before they were properly dry. I’d wait till it hits 8%. One friend told me to dribble water on it and see if it beads up (too wet) or if it soaks into the wood (dry enough). I like the moisture meter…
10" Windows 10 Fusion5 FWIN232 Plus S1 Ultra Slim Windows Tablet PC - (4GB RAM, USB 3.0, Micro HDMI, Intel Quad-Core CPU, IPS HD Display, 5MP and 2MP Cameras, Bluetooth 4.0, Windows 10 S) (64GB)
hey there Marty... I didn't see where you talked about how you handled the registration hole in post. did you plug it with a dowel and cut it flush? or leave it there? or what. Also what is the significance of making the registration hole go all the way through? is that necessary? And lastly, wouldn't two holes top of sign and bottom ensure that the sign doesn't get twisted (and keep everything aligned better)?
Thanks Steve! I filled the registration hole with wood filler and painted it. Barely noticeable. The only way I could figure out how to do it was to drill the hole all the way through…when you shift the board up, I suppose a partial hole would work. So many ways of doing this. I agree two holes might work better…will try that next time. Thanks for the comment!
@@bargerwoodworking6703 I’m a total newb and it probably shows. Keep the great videos coming. I got me a shapoeko pro xl in feb and am just now getting to work with it a bit. I’ve also recently purchased a Mikita track saw, Mikita drop saw, big dust collector with massive filter, belt and disk sander. My next purchase is probably going to be the dewalt standard 735 planer. I think I’m equipment done for the near future. Just need to start practicing and making stuff!! Again thanks for the great videos.
I’ve been using treated that dried about three months in my encapsulated crawl space. I made three with pretreated wood from Lowe’s that was only down to 13% about six months ago and am having to re- make them for free…uggggg. I’m trying cypress and kiln dried pine now…will see how they do.
Good Job !
Also thank you for not underpricing your work.
$450 is a good price for that sign.
Stumbled on your video's this morning, very informative thank you!!!
You are most welcome!
Very impressive! I will try it out soon. Thank you
Your comment about Tightbond III yeah it's s very strong. Used it to dowel and glue a flight of treads (3 piece Mahogany tread) I had to repair a riser, the glue on the treads still holds it like a solid piece of wood after 12 years installed.
Totally agree! Thanks for the comment!
Loved the "nearly perfect" line. I had to learn that is usually the sweet spot.
Regarding file names; in two weeks I would forget what "sports complex" actually means. I have learnt to use fulsome names like "Burlingame Lawn sports complex" or "one way arrow". It is long but there is no guessing what the job is later on.
For offsetting for tiling I would add an attachable extension 25" from the front edge of the work area and a 25" stick. Position the front edge against the stick, do job, remove stick, and voila, correctly shifted without drilling a hole.
Thanks Andrew! I will use your suggestion on file names...already getting them confused. Still don’t understand using an extension for tiling?
@@bargerwoodworking6703 My apologies; I tend to speak as a precis!
Instead of using a precisely located hole and trying to align it to the reference for the second tile, and having a hole to repair, I would either hinge or have attachable, depending on your bench front, a table extension. On it I would mount a full width edge the table work depth from the front edge of your zero line, say 25". I would then cut an mdf spacer board exactly 25" deep.
In use you have the spacer in place, butt the work to it, and carve the first tile. It is where it would be without the extension. Remove the mdf, move the work forward to the outrigger edge, and it is perfectly positioned for the second tile. This only relies on the reference edge being straight.
Alternatively there is a second way if your software allows it. The workboard must have parallel edges for this. Carve the first tile then spin the board 180 degrees. In the software spin the job around 180 degrees, recompute the path and cut the remainder as a second 'first' tile. This technique relies on the job being centred on the board. Have fun.
Another really nice video! If I may, one thing you can do where the letters were just so close to the line. In vectric, you can choose the "text spacing" which is 3 over from the text toolbox item. This will also help to just inch over those letters at the line and achieve a safer transition in the tiling!
Great work! Keep it up! I'm also in NC (near Lake Norman)!
Good tip!
The 25 inch limitation is in the vcarve desktop software. the shapeoko will do 30 inches or better
Good work 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Just found your channel. I've been making signs off and on for awhile now on my XXL same program and just upgrading belt z to hdz this week. I noticed the grain in the wood and from my experience you get a much flatter and stays flatter sign if you flip grain so they don't grow or shrink the same way over time. Also if you are cutting say a 34 inch sign in vcarve desktop change the tile height to say 17 inches that leaves only 17 inch overhang instead of 25 inches off bed. Or even 10 inch on first tile if that's possible. Great video and I'm not picking on your work it looks great. 👍👍 subd
Thanks Mike! I have a lot to learn about tiling. It was very difficult to match up the x and y axis exactly. Need to figure out a better way. Really appreciate your comments!
@@bargerwoodworking6703 the x is really hard to get right, I usually try to zero off the same point everytime close to center of sign if possible or zero off of the bed if stock is really flat like good 3/4 burch ply. I use the bit zero v1. The y I figured out by mounting fence down the y axis then manually using a 1/4 endmill and running the machine down the y so it is perfectly straight with the y axis on the cnc. Makes it so the y can't be off if it is butted up to the y fence . Hope this makes sense to ya. Lol anyway its all fun keep the vids coming. 👍
I bought a 4 x 4 shapeoko 5 pro so now only need to tile with a 4x8 sheet.
I bought a 4 x 4 shapeoko 5 pro so now only need to tile with a 4x8 sheet.
Absolutely marvelous video!!! I just stumbled upon you today and I thoroughly enjoyed the "Do Not Enter" sign video and this one. You're very good at CNC instruction since I am just learning Vectric. We have almost the same setup but my Shapeoko is from 2018. How do you like the Z-Plus? Was it an upgrade for you? Also, what little computer do you have that's running the machine? Finally, I love the collet wrench suggestion. What collet do I need to track down to fit the DWP611 like you have? Many thanks!!! - Scott
I love the Z-Plus. Ordered it with the machine.
The collet was from Inventables here’s the link:
www.inventables.com/technologies/dewalt-611-precision-grade-collet
I also ordered the wrench from them.
Here's the link for the tablet...I love it! Been using it for two years and no problems...amzn.to/3eodcek
Also...here's a link to a video about the table that convinced me to order it...
th-cam.com/video/UoOQHKB3W2s/w-d-xo.html
This was a great tutorial, really useful information. This is my first video I’ve watched of yours so far. Curious about the touch screen you are using. Do you mind sharing information on that? Thanks again, great job on this video.
Purchased the tablet on Amazon, about $200. 10" Windows 10 Fusion5 FWIN232 Plus S1 Ultra Slim Windows Tablet PC - (4GB RAM, USB 3.0, Micro HDMI, Intel Quad-Core CPU, IPS HD Display, 5MP and 2MP Cameras, Bluetooth 4.0, Windows 10 S) (64GB)
why don't use the offset tool in drawing your borders? Also Garrett Frome has a great video on making your own clamps in bulk
Great video. You said you used v carve desktop. I looked it up and it says maximum project size limit of 24x24. Why is your able to have larger?
Thank YOU!!! I have been wondering about a CNC for quite a while. Now where can I put one ??
I tucked mine away into a corner of my garage. A lot of people put them on wheels and move them around.
@@bargerwoodworking6703 How did you decide which one to buy?
At the time price was the main factor and availability, but after more than a year, I’m still happy with the Shapeoko
@@bargerwoodworking6703 if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Surprised cost is a factor considering all the top of the line tools you’ve got, I’m so cheap I still use an old 6”short bed craftsman jointer I got years ago for $100. Sometimes it works out though, saved a ton buying the wen track saw instead of the festool and it works just as well (aside from dust collection)
Where do you get the epoxy and activator?
Awesome
Thank you!
Wow looks great. Wonder if I can TILE on my CARVECO, maybe. Will have to ask. My table cuts X is 15.75 and Y is 11.81 but the table Y is 20. I have a Genmitsu PROVerXL 4030.
I’ll bet you can, but only have experience with the Shapeoko and Vcarve Desktop. Good luck!
How did you learn the software? TH-cam University?
Came out great...and nice profit margin!
Marc Lindsay training is awesome. Other than that, I just jumped in and made a ton of mistakes
Wgats the importance to check the moisture ?
If the wood is too wet…like 12% or higher, the paint won’t stick for very long. I’m now redoing some signs that I jumped the gun and painted them before they were properly dry. I’d wait till it hits 8%. One friend told me to dribble water on it and see if it beads up (too wet) or if it soaks into the wood (dry enough). I like the moisture meter…
Can you describe you computer that you use to control the cnc?
10" Windows 10 Fusion5 FWIN232 Plus S1 Ultra Slim Windows Tablet PC - (4GB RAM, USB 3.0, Micro HDMI, Intel Quad-Core CPU, IPS HD Display, 5MP and 2MP Cameras, Bluetooth 4.0, Windows 10 S) (64GB)
hey there Marty... I didn't see where you talked about how you handled the registration hole in post. did you plug it with a dowel and cut it flush? or leave it there? or what. Also what is the significance of making the registration hole go all the way through? is that necessary? And lastly, wouldn't two holes top of sign and bottom ensure that the sign doesn't get twisted (and keep everything aligned better)?
Thanks Steve! I filled the registration hole with wood filler and painted it. Barely noticeable. The only way I could figure out how to do it was to drill the hole all the way through…when you shift the board up, I suppose a partial hole would work. So many ways of doing this. I agree two holes might work better…will try that next time. Thanks for the comment!
@@bargerwoodworking6703 I’m a total newb and it probably shows. Keep the great videos coming. I got me a shapoeko pro xl in feb and am just now getting to work with it a bit. I’ve also recently purchased a Mikita track saw, Mikita drop saw, big dust collector with massive filter, belt and disk sander. My next purchase is probably going to be the dewalt standard 735 planer. I think I’m equipment done for the near future. Just need to start practicing and making stuff!! Again thanks for the great videos.
How do you calculate your pricing?
Basically what the market will bear and competition. I think I’m too cheap…I try to figure $50 an hour fir my time.
Are you using treated lumber or non treated?
I’ve been using treated that dried about three months in my encapsulated crawl space. I made three with pretreated wood from Lowe’s that was only down to 13% about six months ago and am having to re- make them for free…uggggg. I’m trying cypress and kiln dried pine now…will see how they do.
Love your videos; Question: how do you disguise the hole once you have finished the sign?
Wood filler and a dab of black paint works fine.