As a limited English speaker, I have to say thanks because you speak so clear and quiet . It do our experience with your videos more confortable and easy to follow.
Another good video. You clearly explain and demonstrate your methodology. I was experiencing distortion of my negatives from the heat of the incandescent 75 watt PH11A bulb in my Beseler 23C II with the condenser installed. I wanted to find a cooler running alternative. At first, I was looking for a bayonet mount LED bulb to fit the original light head. Instead, I came across a plastic light socket for a normal screw mount for a conventional bulb for $1. I screwed in the wires from an electrical cord I salvaged from a broken fan and I hooked it up to my timer. I use bargain LED light bulbs. I've tried a 100 watt equivalent 13.5 watt, 3000K, 1600 lumen bulb and a 60 watt equivalent 9 watt, 3000k, 800 lumen bulb and both seem to work well. As expected, I just about double the exposure time going from the brighter bulb to the dimmer one. As you did in your video, I used some black fabric tape to block the light leaks. I also have a Beseler 23C III whose light head can accept a screw-in bulb and the LED bulbs work there too. There is no printing on the end of these bulbs so they work well as enlarger bulbs when pointed downward. Good alternatives for only a few dollars.
I print with a Beselar C23. The bulb is not available in the UK (240v) so I am using a 12W GLS LED in a bodged lamp holder. It works but is too bright! I use a 3mm plexi sheet as a diffuser above the condenser to get reasonable exposure times ( 8s f11 12x16" from 6x6). Smaller wattage was either too dim or too few LEDs that somehow were in focus on the print. Keep up the work.
I’ve made prints with the white screen off my iPhone for black-and-white photos before, and I am looking for a more permanent light source. thanks you for this video and the information your channel has!
I really enjoyed your video, very interesting indeed! When I started building my LED enlarger head I was trying to find a led panel that would fit on a 4x5 camera without masking and came up empty. That's why I messed about with strip lights for ages, but I just couldn't get it bright enough, like 4 stops under. I ended up using a LifX RGB smart bulb which is even a touch brighter than my regular Durst M670 lamp. Only problem was that I had to 3D print a new head altogether since there was just no space to fit such a big bulb in the M670 head. Some enlargers have regular lamp fittings though, maybe yours too? Since I programmed my filters in electronically I should probably get a step wedge to check accuracy at some point, haven't done that yet. I've done a couple of prints though and in practice I didn't notice any difference really, just really comfortable not to have to change filters all the time while doing splitgrade! There is a video on my channel about the whole build, f-stop timer included, in case you're interested in the details. By the way, I've found a panel of the right size just after finishing the whole build, FML 😆 At least I don't have to deal with under the lens filters now!
Interesting video. I recently bought an old Omega D2, and I replaced the super chromega head with the 4x5 enlarger head from intrepid, which seems to work fine but the exposure times are a lot longer than expected.
Just seeing this now. Great experiment! I've always wondered if an LED light source can replace the contrast filters, kind of like an old dichro head, or the Intrepid Camera portable enlarger, ..but something that can replace light sources in classic old enlargers. Awesome experiment. Interesting that it is hard to see the LED light projected onto the easel/paper in the video-most curious. Thank you! subscribed and liked!!
I think this could be a really nice solution for making large format contact prints. I use a simple 7.5W incandescent light bulb and a homemade filter holder right now, but this LED setup could be a good solution too. My printing times for making 8x10 contact prints on Ilford MGIV FB are about 15 to 25 seconds.
Very good Experiment. It is not as versatile as a Heiland Splitgrade coldlight. But way cheaper. Placing it on to of a condenser would be another interesting experiment.. Thanks ..
To get around the warm-up time, can you arrange this by leaving the lamp on for each test-strip, and use a lens cap on-off for exposures? I guess it will depend to some extent at least, how much thermal heat is generated by the lamp. I have done this when having to use an enlarger without a timer. (and with a metal halide lamp for photogravure processes, which had a very long warm-up time. I built a lamp house with a dark slide.) Thanks very much for this video. I have managed to fit a fairly bright LED globe into a 4x5 Linhof enlarger head, removing the condenser and replacing with a fresnel lens and one thin diffusion screen. But I will start from scratch for the 5x7 work, using a 5x7 camera as the head with an LED panel similar to yours as the light source. Cheers. K.P.
Thanks for the great and helpful video. I have an old Zone VI cold light on a 4x5 enlarger that was the pre-multigrade version. I have to put a yellow gel in it to make it work with filters because the actual light is too blue. Something like this setup might be a better way to use the diffusers without having to use the gel. I have wondered about the led panels, but have not seen one used this way. Thanks for sharing your results. Chris
I also just got a cold light (diffusion) enlarger. Planning to start printing on graded paper, but having a MG option would be nice! Could you share which yellow gel you used? And did you get (close to) full multigrade range after adding that yellow filter? I would expect the light to be green, perhaps, and quite dim? Oh, I'm assuming you put the yellow filter just above the diffusion?
@@filibertkraxner305 The gel I use is a Roscoe lighting gel, like for stage lighting. I think it is called Straw. I cut two of them to size so I can use one or two between the light tubes and the diffuser plastic. When corrected that way it matches the multigrade filters very well. For higher contrasts, like 3 or 3 1/2 I can take one gel out and adjust the filters to get what I need. Chris
these retrofits and adaptations are going to become more popular as enlarger bulbs die and replacements aren't available. You can allready pick up the same cob chip that's in the sl60 for 20 bucks and a dimmable driver for 15. All in a form factor that will fit an omega b22. Wax paper or parchment paper can be used as a diffuser. Not sure of the performance vs lexan.
A little things, don't change an enlarger position from standing vertical to horizontal as the lock mechanism will unlock 😂 almost got KOed by a durst pictochrom Plus 🤘
Nice results, thanks for sharing! Get yourself a brick to offset the weight difference. A real brick, not a C3. That delay though, have you tested intensity after the panel heats up? For example after a long printing session?
Trial and error I’m afraid. The wedge I have is made in such a way that every step is a half stop. If my print is too light and I want to raise it 6 steps, I know that I need to increase my exposure by 3 stops.
Hi, great video mate!! I'm thinking on building an enlarger for 6x17 negatives. This LED head would make it so much easier. Is your enlarger just the Light source, diffuser panels an then negative and lens? No condenser or any other lens in between?
Hi,Is it possible to modify “ Beseler 23c series III xl “ enlarger to use your method with the “ LED Enlarger Head: Neewer 660 LED Video Light ….Would this modification allow the enlarger to be modified to 4x5 size or even 8x10..And one more question..By using this method can practically any viewing camera with bellows be tuned into enlarger..Thank you.
Good video, and a great subject. I really would like to hear you about your temperature control system. I'm having some issues with that. How expensive was the installation? Again, great work, thanks.
Interesting. I use Super Chromega DII enlargers and I have been looking for an LED solution that would give me shorter exposure times. Disappointing to learn that the LED times were about 50% longer, so someone will come up with a solution I am sure. Heiland makes one but I don't want to spend $2k per enlarger.
Hi, I have the exact same set up as you. I bought the 4x5 enlarger kit from intrepid (£250) and it works fine. Looks a bit silly and you’ll need to make your own light tight box but I’ve made prints from 35mm to 4x5 and it works ok, the long print times make it easier to dodge/burn etc. it even comes with a built in timer
Gary UK I have a Meopta colour 3 enlarger head and it has the usual three controls CMY, it also has a white control and being new to the whole darkroom environment I was wondering if you could explain what the white control is for. I'm loving the channel and am learning lots please don't stop. Gary
@@TheNakedPhotographer ,i have the same enlarger, but my doubt it: is possible change the original halogen lamp by a led warm lamp in the same type(dychroic)? Tks and i love your Chanel!
Hello, i have taken your great idea as an opportunity to build an 8x10 enlarger. Now i would like to know whether the LED panel (Neewer 66) you show can illuminate 8x10, or whether the black and white print you show is from an 8x10 negative. Thank you and best regards from Germany Wolfgang
Oh, one other thing. You mentioned about the white LED lights being more blue and would likely increase contrast. Is that right? It was my understanding that multi-grade paper has 3 parts to the emulsion (blue for low contrast, green for high contrast, blue/green for medium contrast). So, wouldn't the white light produce less contrast?
White light is more blue than the standard tungsten or halogen bulb that would be in an enlarger. Blue light activates the high contrast emulsion layer. White light is not blue enough to be a high contrast light, but I would expect higher contrast than the warm white setting.
i love your videos. i've been watching most of them in the last weeks. they are always very instructive! but man your intro... it still makes me uneasy! maybe think of changing it with something like a cartoon... then it could be funny.
I'm Speechless. It simply kills me that we had to spend hundreds of dollars for cold head enlarger upgrades back in the 80's and 90's. $80 dollars and some black gaffers tape? Are you kidding me? The only reason I even saw this video was because I was pricing old or used Cold Cathode enlarger heads. The idea just popped into my head, "I wonder if LED is being used?" Voila, This video came up in my search. I'll be damned! $80.00 Fucking Dollars! HOLY SHIT!
To be clear, there are caveats to using this particular light as an enlarger head, but it can be done consistently to some degree. Heiland makes a dedicated led head you may want to check out.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Today I tried it and it worked perfectly. It is the first time for me printing RA-4 and I am very pleased with the result. The. RGB led video light I used was small enough to fit where my normal lightbulb is placed on my Durst 805 bw. 👍
Hello good day, if I use an LED bulb that is 6500K would that be an issue? I'm my country getting a bulb that is 3400K I'd a bit difficult. This is my first time printing.
You might find the contrast of your prints to be high due to the extra blue from the bulb. You could place an 85B filter on your enlarger lens to help compensate.
As a limited English speaker, I have to say thanks because you speak so clear and quiet . It do our experience with your videos more confortable and easy to follow.
I am 1 minute into the video and I am already sure your youtube channel will enrich my life beyond anything I've ever watched.
Thanks for posting this. The Neewer video light looks like it may be just what I need to get an old Elwood 5x7 up and running.
I like your through approach to this topic, very interesting results
You're a star, good idea to avoid expensive light bulbs and having a cold light
This is great, thanks
Another good video. You clearly explain and demonstrate your methodology.
I was experiencing distortion of my negatives from the heat of the incandescent 75 watt PH11A bulb in my Beseler 23C II with the condenser installed. I wanted to find a cooler running alternative. At first, I was looking for a bayonet mount LED bulb to fit the original light head.
Instead, I came across a plastic light socket for a normal screw mount for a conventional bulb for $1. I screwed in the wires from an electrical cord I salvaged from a broken fan and I hooked it up to my timer.
I use bargain LED light bulbs. I've tried a 100 watt equivalent 13.5 watt, 3000K, 1600 lumen bulb and a 60 watt equivalent 9 watt, 3000k, 800 lumen bulb and both seem to work well. As expected, I just about double the exposure time going from the brighter bulb to the dimmer one. As you did in your video, I used some black fabric tape to block the light leaks.
I also have a Beseler 23C III whose light head can accept a screw-in bulb and the LED bulbs work there too. There is no printing on the end of these bulbs so they work well as enlarger bulbs when pointed downward.
Good alternatives for only a few dollars.
I print with a Beselar C23. The bulb is not available in the UK (240v) so I am using a 12W GLS LED in a bodged lamp holder. It works but is too bright! I use a 3mm plexi sheet as a diffuser above the condenser to get reasonable exposure times ( 8s f11 12x16" from 6x6). Smaller wattage was either too dim or too few LEDs that somehow were in focus on the print. Keep up the work.
Great, useful and informative.
Thank you for your inspiring videos.
Thank you for watching them!
I’ve made prints with the white screen off my iPhone for black-and-white photos before, and I am looking for a more permanent light source. thanks you for this video and the information your channel has!
I really enjoyed your video, very interesting indeed! When I started building my LED enlarger head I was trying to find a led panel that would fit on a 4x5 camera without masking and came up empty. That's why I messed about with strip lights for ages, but I just couldn't get it bright enough, like 4 stops under. I ended up using a LifX RGB smart bulb which is even a touch brighter than my regular Durst M670 lamp. Only problem was that I had to 3D print a new head altogether since there was just no space to fit such a big bulb in the M670 head. Some enlargers have regular lamp fittings though, maybe yours too? Since I programmed my filters in electronically I should probably get a step wedge to check accuracy at some point, haven't done that yet. I've done a couple of prints though and in practice I didn't notice any difference really, just really comfortable not to have to change filters all the time while doing splitgrade! There is a video on my channel about the whole build, f-stop timer included, in case you're interested in the details. By the way, I've found a panel of the right size just after finishing the whole build, FML 😆 At least I don't have to deal with under the lens filters now!
Thanks! It helps a lot!
Interesting video. I recently bought an old Omega D2, and I replaced the super chromega head with the 4x5 enlarger head from intrepid, which seems to work fine but the exposure times are a lot longer than expected.
Excellent work. Great experiment. I heard they make a red/green/blue multi colored LED array.
Brilliant!
Very good!
Good to know. We're off-grid with a very modest energy budget so a big halogen bulb is out of the question.
Just seeing this now. Great experiment! I've always wondered if an LED light source can replace the contrast filters, kind of like an old dichro head, or the Intrepid Camera portable enlarger, ..but something that can replace light sources in classic old enlargers. Awesome experiment. Interesting that it is hard to see the LED light projected onto the easel/paper in the video-most curious. Thank you! subscribed and liked!!
I think this could be a really nice solution for making large format contact prints. I use a simple 7.5W incandescent light bulb and a homemade filter holder right now, but this LED setup could be a good solution too. My printing times for making 8x10 contact prints on Ilford MGIV FB are about 15 to 25 seconds.
If it works, don’t change it. Your setup is only slightly more involved that Edward Weston’s and that worked for him for decades.
Very good Experiment.
It is not as versatile as a Heiland Splitgrade coldlight. But way cheaper. Placing it on to of a condenser would be another interesting experiment..
Thanks ..
To get around the warm-up time, can you arrange this by leaving the lamp on for each test-strip, and use a lens cap on-off for exposures? I guess it will depend to some extent at least, how much thermal heat is generated by the lamp. I have done this when having to use an enlarger without a timer. (and with a metal halide lamp for photogravure processes, which had a very long warm-up time. I built a lamp house with a dark slide.)
Thanks very much for this video.
I have managed to fit a fairly bright LED globe into a 4x5 Linhof enlarger head, removing the condenser and replacing with a fresnel lens and one thin diffusion screen. But I will start from scratch for the 5x7 work, using a 5x7 camera as the head with an LED panel similar to yours as the light source. Cheers. K.P.
Thanks for the great and helpful video. I have an old Zone VI cold light on a 4x5 enlarger that was the pre-multigrade version. I have to put a yellow gel in it to make it work with filters because the actual light is too blue. Something like this setup might be a better way to use the diffusers without having to use the gel. I have wondered about the led panels, but have not seen one used this way. Thanks for sharing your results. Chris
I also just got a cold light (diffusion) enlarger. Planning to start printing on graded paper, but having a MG option would be nice! Could you share which yellow gel you used? And did you get (close to) full multigrade range after adding that yellow filter? I would expect the light to be green, perhaps, and quite dim? Oh, I'm assuming you put the yellow filter just above the diffusion?
@@filibertkraxner305 The gel I use is a Roscoe lighting gel, like for stage lighting. I think it is called Straw. I cut two of them to size so I can use one or two between the light tubes and the diffuser plastic. When corrected that way it matches the multigrade filters very well. For higher contrasts, like 3 or 3 1/2 I can take one gel out and adjust the filters to get what I need. Chris
@@chriswraythefineprint8238 Thanks Chris. That's most definitely worth a try!
these retrofits and adaptations are going to become more popular as enlarger bulbs die and replacements aren't available.
You can allready pick up the same cob chip that's in the sl60 for 20 bucks and a dimmable driver for 15. All in a form factor that will fit an omega b22.
Wax paper or parchment paper can be used as a diffuser. Not sure of the performance vs lexan.
A little things, don't change an enlarger position from standing vertical to horizontal as the lock mechanism will unlock 😂 almost got KOed by a durst pictochrom Plus 🤘
Nice results, thanks for sharing! Get yourself a brick to offset the weight difference. A real brick, not a C3.
That delay though, have you tested intensity after the panel heats up? For example after a long printing session?
It didn’t seem to vary
is it possible to find 11x14 4 brade easels under 30 or 20 bucks?
Quick Question: How do you know what time to expose for when placing the step wedge onto the paper. Thanks
Trial and error I’m afraid. The wedge I have is made in such a way that every step is a half stop. If my print is too light and I want to raise it 6 steps, I know that I need to increase my exposure by 3 stops.
Hi, great video mate!! I'm thinking on building an enlarger for 6x17 negatives. This LED head would make it so much easier. Is your enlarger just the Light source, diffuser panels an then negative and lens? No condenser or any other lens in between?
Correct.
Hi,Is it possible to modify “ Beseler 23c series III xl “ enlarger to use your method with the “ LED Enlarger Head: Neewer 660 LED Video Light ….Would this modification allow the enlarger to be modified to 4x5 size or even 8x10..And one more question..By using this method can practically any viewing camera with bellows be tuned into enlarger..Thank you.
Good video, and a great subject. I really would like to hear you about your temperature control system. I'm having some issues with that. How expensive was the installation? Again, great work, thanks.
I go over the entire water control build here, including costs: th-cam.com/video/dFTvBG7l24c/w-d-xo.html
@@TheNakedPhotographer Oh great I´ll check it out
I guess large LED panels and a DIY enlarger head is probably the only way to afford a 8x10 or larger enlarger ;)
Interesting. I use Super Chromega DII enlargers and I have been looking for an LED solution that would give me shorter exposure times. Disappointing to learn that the LED times were about 50% longer, so someone will come up with a solution I am sure. Heiland makes one but I don't want to spend $2k per enlarger.
Hi, I have the exact same set up as you. I bought the 4x5 enlarger kit from intrepid (£250) and it works fine. Looks a bit silly and you’ll need to make your own light tight box but I’ve made prints from 35mm to 4x5 and it works ok, the long print times make it easier to dodge/burn etc. it even comes with a built in timer
Gary UK
I have a Meopta colour 3 enlarger head and it has the usual three controls CMY, it also has a white control and being new to the whole darkroom environment I was wondering if you could explain what the white control is for. I'm loving the channel and am learning lots please don't stop. Gary
It would be for printing black and white without color filters
@@TheNakedPhotographer many thanks, it was something I’ve been trying to discover for a while now. I take it that it controls the highlights.
@@TheNakedPhotographer ,i have the same enlarger, but my doubt it: is possible change the original halogen lamp by a led warm lamp in the same type(dychroic)? Tks and i love your Chanel!
Hello,
i have taken your great idea as an opportunity to build an 8x10 enlarger. Now i would like to know whether the LED panel (Neewer 66) you show can illuminate 8x10, or whether the black and white print you show is from an 8x10 negative.
Thank you and best regards from Germany
Wolfgang
It is not big enough for 8x10. I printed from 4x5 film
Oh, one other thing. You mentioned about the white LED lights being more blue and would likely increase contrast. Is that right? It was my understanding that multi-grade paper has 3 parts to the emulsion (blue for low contrast, green for high contrast, blue/green for medium contrast). So, wouldn't the white light produce less contrast?
White light is more blue than the standard tungsten or halogen bulb that would be in an enlarger. Blue light activates the high contrast emulsion layer. White light is not blue enough to be a high contrast light, but I would expect higher contrast than the warm white setting.
i love your videos. i've been watching most of them in the last weeks. they are always very instructive! but man your intro... it still makes me uneasy! maybe think of changing it with something like a cartoon... then it could be funny.
He did change it. 😂. It’s even better now.
You use the panel with 3400k ? or higher ? and with which brightness? and the exposure time will be longer right?
Greetings
3400K, max brightness
How about a video on DIY cheap enlarger alignment without electronics skills?
I have a whole series on enlarger alignment in the works.
Do you have a particular step tablet that you recommend for tests like this? (And/or one that would work for film testing?)
I have Kodak step tablets I bought second hand, but Stouffer makes some that are very affordable.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thanks!
I'm Speechless. It simply kills me that we had to spend hundreds of dollars for cold head enlarger upgrades back in the 80's and 90's. $80 dollars and some black gaffers tape? Are you kidding me? The only reason I even saw this video was because I was pricing old or used Cold Cathode enlarger heads. The idea just popped into my head, "I wonder if LED is being used?" Voila, This video came up in my search. I'll be damned! $80.00 Fucking Dollars! HOLY SHIT!
To be clear, there are caveats to using this particular light as an enlarger head, but it can be done consistently to some degree. Heiland makes a dedicated led head you may want to check out.
Do you think it is possible to use an RGB led lights source for RA-4 paper if you have an bw enlarger head?
I’m going to try it one day and see
@@TheNakedPhotographer Today I tried it and it worked perfectly. It is the first time for me printing RA-4 and I am very pleased with the result. The. RGB led video light I used was small enough to fit where my normal lightbulb is placed on my Durst 805 bw. 👍
The Naked Photographer is it possible to use the 5000k to print in colour?
Paper is attuned to 3400K, but this panel can emit this color temperature too.
@@TheNakedPhotographer thank you
Hello good day, if I use an LED bulb that is 6500K would that be an issue? I'm my country getting a bulb that is 3400K I'd a bit difficult. This is my first time printing.
You might find the contrast of your prints to be high due to the extra blue from the bulb. You could place an 85B filter on your enlarger lens to help compensate.
@@TheNakedPhotographer thank you very much for this info. I will try it and let you know.
Hey, how can we connect? Need some help with darkroom stuff.
You can send me a message or find me on the Facebook darkroom group.
@@TheNakedPhotographer By what name are you on Facebook?
Gregory T Davis, I’m active in the Darkroom group and on the Photrio.com forums
What about just replacing the halogen bulb with a single 150w equivalent warm LED bulb? www.faikee.net/?p=5493
Some people do that. My enlarger can’t because it uses 120v two pin halogen bulbs. LED two pin bulbs are only 12v.