I'm so glad I just stumbled upon this video. I learned so much! Mom taught me how to sew (using the machine is all) as a very young girl. I took sewing as my home ec class in high school. In 1980, I completed the 5-year plan for my Bachelor of Science degree in Textiles and Clothing, manufacturing and merchandising at UCDavis. That was quite an intense chapter of life. I sure did grow up fast. Most of that extra year to earn my degree was working for Byer California, in San Francisco, CA as a production assistant and floater. I earned a full semester of credit toward my degree by writing a very detailed report, taking months to complete my thesis, on what my job entailed as well as the corporate structure and methodology. Obviously, all of that was a very long time ago, and I don't recall being taught in college much, if any, of what you 2 just talked about regarding proper fit and pattern alterations. Of course, each student in my class made custom dressforms for our own individual body (paper mache style onto a body tube sock with the help of a class mate). Then we made a muslin by draping onto our dressforms and ultimately made our basic patterns from that muslin. We were taught what grading is, but nothing much about how to do grading or pattern alterations the proper way to accomplish a successful fit. I also don't recall learning techniques to accomplish various design features, like the princess bodice seam you mentioned. I've always believed that knowing the "why" something is done helps to understand/make sense of the "how" something is done. I appreciate that you included the "why" along with a brief explanation of "how", Eg. altering the armhole when altering the bustline. For me, that was a bell-ringer and lightbulb all at once. I'm definitely going to subscribe and look into joining. At 67, my body is completely different than it's ever been, between having the typical "mature" woman's body features and a considerable weight loss due to Covid and losing my husband just under a year ago. I bought an adjustable dressform, which is still in the box, because I'm not sure how to go about correctly taking my measurements nor how to adjust the dressform accordingly. I have a long-waisted pear-shaped body type, so off-the-rack garments and out-of-the-drawer patterns rarely fit me just right. I'm most successful with a fit-and-flare dress style, but I live mostly in jean and a top of some sort (when I'm not in my grubbies for gardening). I'm hoping that your channel and other resources have information about how to make pattern adjustments and ready-made garment alterations for my shape. I have a lot of my own clothes that need to be altered and I have a lot of my husband's beautiful shirts, business-dress and business-casual, that I'd like to "refashion" for myself. Having my dressform adjusted to represent my actual body size and shape (as closely as is possible with such devices) will be a big help to me in my alterations and refashioning endeavors. Once I've had help taking my measurements, I won't need a helper pinning what I have on as to where I need to take in or where I might need to let out. As a retired widow with an irregular sleep schedule, my inspiration doesn't always happen at a convenient time to find a helper. I could wake up at 3:00 AM with a fantastic light bulb of an idea and feel like I need to implement it right away. Anyway, I'm off to go subscribe to your channel and try figure out how to "join" Seamwork. Thanks for making available such great resources.
It would be so helpful if pattern design companies could provide the entire set of body measurements for their fit models. Then we could compare it to our set of measurements to see what adjustments we might need to make.
I leaened so much, thank you! I sew, but I also work at ready made clothing shop and what was really interesting to hear was all that about the wrinkles. Especially in pants. I have so many clients very often that hang up on this and I can see often that there would really be nothing to do about it, because of the curves or hollows of their body. People get frustrated nothing fits. So now at least I will be able to explain it a bit better. 🙂
WOW!!! This was very informative. This information was very affirming. I always have to make changes to every new pattern. It nice to know that having an abnormal figure is very normal. Thanks for this video.
I assumed that basically everyone has to fit their patterns. To me, having a ready to fit pattern fit without modification would be having an “abnormal body”
I am wanting to “Grock” all this information but I am a visual learner that it starts to turn into “word vomit”. No offense intended here, just so hard to mentally see and translate the information into a hands on understanding. If there is a way to incorporate some sketches, examples, live models… would be so so helpful.
Great suggestion! Video podcasts are new for us, and are also put out as audio-only podcasts, so we are still figuring out how to blend the two mediums.
BTW, at some point could you show how to measure the shoulder width on a person and on the pattern. And where do measure the high bust on a pattern? Thank you.
There may be many reasons. 1) The eady to wear clothes you buy have your exact proportions while the patterns you buy don't. In this case it is worth measuring the ready to wear clothing you buy, including vertical measurements, to compare it to the patterns you buy. 2) Ready to wear garments have elastane typically to fit more people, even in woven fabrics. If you mostly use pure woven fabrics, those may need more adjustments. 3) Sometimes I think there maybe patternmaking techniques reserved for mass produced clothing (this is only my suspicion, am not actually sure).
@@nusaibahibraheem8183 thanks for the tip about measuring my store bought clothes - I could then use these to alter the patterns that don't fit...... Reason is certainly not stretch content as I only buy pure cotton/linen/etc garments. I suspect that you might be right 🤔
Great point, I've wondered this too haven't really been able to express it as nicely as you have done. I find sewing clothes need so many adjustments. Maybe, just my opinion, if ready to wear garments don't fit we easily try on a bigger/smaller size. With homemade we have spend the day unpicking😂 and sewing to get it to fit. Not sure if my opinion is true🤷🏻♀️
I like a lot of ease such as tunics, not an issue for me. But run into issues with most patterns being too wide at shoulder/neck hole. I like the V neck line but if it’s designed too wide for me then it falls off shoulder. I recently created a center seam in front in hopes of pulling in the shoulder line and shortening the V. Obviously unsure of what I’m doing. Thank you
Contrary to what I think was said here, Back in the day we were taught to chose a pattern by the upper bust measurement, then make a bust adjustment. I think this was so the shoulders fit.
@@lynnm.johnson5755In general, it is more difficult to adjust the shoulder/upper chest down, than it is to increase the pattern to fit a full bust, particularly when the bust is very full. As well, a fuller than “average” bust primarily affects the front pattern pieces, where the breasts are, after all. For reference, my high bust measurement is 36”, and my full bust measurement is 44”. Choosing a pattern size based on my full bust measurement would result in a garment that would be far too large at the shoulders and would have way too much fabric across my back - where my breasts most certainly are *not*. 😂 ❤
I’m very curious about the career trajectory to become a pattern drafter? I am self taught, but I have worked to get fairly proficient at it. I’m ready for a career change, but not sure what direction to go. I would love to learn more about Robin’s career, if she is willing to share. ❤️
My friend does something similar and she had to do a fashion and design course at university. If you already have so much experience you should fly through it! Good luck ❤
There are a few different paths to becoming a pattern maker. You can learn pattern making at a technical or vocational school through a fashion design, pattern making, or apparel technology program. You can also pursue a bachelor's degree in fashion design, which is what Robin did. She then spent many years pattern drafting ready-to-wear for various companies before coming to Seamwork. 😁
Hi. Thank you for this video. I wonder if you could comment on this question: if due to added weight I wear a 40 DD cup bra (but body frame is still about a size 12/14 in upper chest/shoulder in ready to wear clothing), what approach to choosing pattern size are you recommending? It wasn't clear from the discussion. Thanks!
I am a J cup so can tell you what I do. Most pattern companies draft for a B cup. That is a 2 inch difference between upper bust and full bust. So if the upper bust measurement is 36 inches, the bust measurement of the pattern will be 38 inches. Get your upper bust measurement, then add 2 inches. That will give you a much better chance of having the pattern fit on the shoulders etc, then do a full bust adjustment. This keeps the fullness you need on the front of the garment where you need it.
@@Absintheskiss Thanks! That's actually what I do too. It seemed from the talk that she was saying to do something else. I was just curious how she would respond. Thanks from one busty gal to another! 😁
@@AbsintheskissI think she was saying though that you can’t assume the 2” difference across all sizes. Therefore taking the stated bust measurement for the pattern and then to assume the upper bust is ALWAYS 2” more, for ALL sizes, may be incorrect. It will be correct, more likely for the middle of the range of sizes but as the size changes away from the middle size on either side, the 2” difference will/may drift away from 2”.
Our patternmakers believe that there are a variety of ways to get to a good fit, rather than just one definitive approach. The method @absintheskiss outlines is a great place to start, and @39houdsteps was correct in the assessment that Robin's point was that as you approach sizes farther away from the middle size range, the 2" difference might not be as accurate. This is why our number one fitting advice is that you should always make a muslin.
This is so interesting. I'm a bra and sewing D cup, sometimes E, and always had problems with fitting my upper body. Since I figured it out I have had much more success by using patterns that draft for varying cup sizes like cashmerette and others. So what you're saying is that the patterns must be based 0n bra sizes, right?
Hi I’m another person with a shoulders and frame size difference with my bust measurements. I’m 5’7” with small bones and 32 G bust. Fitted clothes are difficult…
I am unilateral breasted following a right mastectomy without reconstruction. I have trouble accommodating for this in patterns which clearly are designed for people without this issue. I have tried removing the dart and also just making the garment as is without any adjustment to the right side aside from raising the dart on both sides. It's particularly an issue with princess seams. Are there any resources that you are aware of that I could followup to see what my options might be? (Oh usually an AU size 8 -10 roughly which I think is a size 4 - 6 US?) Thanks very much.
I would do a small bust adjustment on just one side. You'll have to trace the front pattern to make a right and left, or to unfold a pattern piece usually cut on the fold. I have successfully altered an existing princess seam garment from about a D cup to an A, so you can definitely do it at the pattern stage.
It does sound from this video that you know what you are talking about. Then why are the samples that you make every month so ill fitting on the plus size models compared to the smaller model? It is frustrating, demeaning and makes it looks like Seamwork has no idea how to draft larger size or doesn’t care. For example, the West top was riding up the front of the larger model when It doesn’t on the line drawings or the smaller model. It looks like it was sewn without accounting for the fact that more length was needed for her bust size. The Baker dress looks like it is designed to have an horizontal line below the bust but the sample has a line that cuts right across the larger model’s chest. I could go on.
Thank you for your feedback. We work hard to create patterns that fit well and look great on all sizes, including our curvy samples. While we do our best and have a high success rate, there are times when we miss the mark, which can happen with our misses sizes too. We understand your frustration and are committed to learning from these experiences to continually improve. Your insights help us grow, so thank you for sharing them.
The explanation of how and why the cup size changes as the pattern sizes go up or down was making my brain hurt. I was following the logic up to a point, but without a visual illustration, I got a bit lost. As I understood it, the actual measurement differences could cause the pattern size to technically fall into a different cup size, because the human form changes much less at the shoulder than it does at the torso, as the overall size goes up. In plain language, as we gain weight, we get bigger faster around our chest, waist, and hips than we do across our shoulders. This, again, only as I understand it, explains the difference between sewing pattern “cup size,” vs. bra cup size. If my understanding is accurate, then you would still need to make a full bust adjustment for a larger than “average” bust. And, it would explain a lot for me, personally, on my never-ending journey to fit my 36G/H boobs. 😂😂😂
We do design for plus sizes! Our current size range is 00 - 30. You can read more here: help.seamwork.com/hc/en-us/articles/360058348593-Sizing-information-for-Seamwork-patterns
This was one of the most informative videos you've ever produced; thank you! By all means, please do another video with Robin.
So glad to hear that, thank you!
I'm so glad I just stumbled upon this video. I learned so much! Mom taught me how to sew (using the machine is all) as a very young girl. I took sewing as my home ec class in high school. In 1980, I completed the 5-year plan for my Bachelor of Science degree in Textiles and Clothing, manufacturing and merchandising at UCDavis. That was quite an intense chapter of life. I sure did grow up fast. Most of that extra year to earn my degree was working for Byer California, in San Francisco, CA as a production assistant and floater. I earned a full semester of credit toward my degree by writing a very detailed report, taking months to complete my thesis, on what my job entailed as well as the corporate structure and methodology. Obviously, all of that was a very long time ago, and I don't recall being taught in college much, if any, of what you 2 just talked about regarding proper fit and pattern alterations. Of course, each student in my class made custom dressforms for our own individual body (paper mache style onto a body tube sock with the help of a class mate). Then we made a muslin by draping onto our dressforms and ultimately made our basic patterns from that muslin. We were taught what grading is, but nothing much about how to do grading or pattern alterations the proper way to accomplish a successful fit. I also don't recall learning techniques to accomplish various design features, like the princess bodice seam you mentioned.
I've always believed that knowing the "why" something is done helps to understand/make sense of the "how" something is done. I appreciate that you included the "why" along with a brief explanation of "how", Eg. altering the armhole when altering the bustline. For me, that was a bell-ringer and lightbulb all at once. I'm definitely going to subscribe and look into joining. At 67, my body is completely different than it's ever been, between having the typical "mature" woman's body features and a considerable weight loss due to Covid and losing my husband just under a year ago. I bought an adjustable dressform, which is still in the box, because I'm not sure how to go about correctly taking my measurements nor how to adjust the dressform accordingly. I have a long-waisted pear-shaped body type, so off-the-rack garments and out-of-the-drawer patterns rarely fit me just right. I'm most successful with a fit-and-flare dress style, but I live mostly in jean and a top of some sort (when I'm not in my grubbies for gardening). I'm hoping that your channel and other resources have information about how to make pattern adjustments and ready-made garment alterations for my shape. I have a lot of my own clothes that need to be altered and I have a lot of my husband's beautiful shirts, business-dress and business-casual, that I'd like to "refashion" for myself. Having my dressform adjusted to represent my actual body size and shape (as closely as is possible with such devices) will be a big help to me in my alterations and refashioning endeavors. Once I've had help taking my measurements, I won't need a helper pinning what I have on as to where I need to take in or where I might need to let out. As a retired widow with an irregular sleep schedule, my inspiration doesn't always happen at a convenient time to find a helper. I could wake up at 3:00 AM with a fantastic light bulb of an idea and feel like I need to implement it right away.
Anyway, I'm off to go subscribe to your channel and try figure out how to "join" Seamwork. Thanks for making available such great resources.
Thanks for watching!
Wow. I'd never thought about the sewing cup size changing across sizes, that's so interesting and makes so much sense! Thank you
It would be so helpful if pattern design companies could provide the entire set of body measurements for their fit models. Then we could compare it to our set of measurements to see what adjustments we might need to make.
Thanks so much,,,,,,I never knew "toile-ing' was a word......what a wonderful addition to my vocabulary !!!!! It will keep me smiling for days !!!!
Fitting a pattern to MY body is a new concept for me. Thank you for the clarifications.
This was such a cool conversation and I learned so much! Thank you 😊
Excellent show, ladies! Thank you very much for sharing your expertise!
Our pleasure!
I leaened so much, thank you! I sew, but I also work at ready made clothing shop and what was really interesting to hear was all that about the wrinkles. Especially in pants. I have so many clients very often that hang up on this and I can see often that there would really be nothing to do about it, because of the curves or hollows of their body. People get frustrated nothing fits. So now at least I will be able to explain it a bit better. 🙂
Glad it was helpful!
Wow. Great info. Pattern making is an art!
It really is!
WOW!!! This was very informative. This information was very affirming. I always have to make changes to every new pattern. It nice to know that having an abnormal figure is very normal. Thanks for this video.
Glad it was helpful!
I assumed that basically everyone has to fit their patterns. To me, having a ready to fit pattern fit without modification would be having an “abnormal body”
I am wanting to “Grock” all this information but I am a visual learner that it starts to turn into “word vomit”. No offense intended here, just so hard to mentally see and translate the information into a hands on understanding. If there is a way to incorporate some sketches, examples, live models… would be so so helpful.
Great suggestion! Video podcasts are new for us, and are also put out as audio-only podcasts, so we are still figuring out how to blend the two mediums.
Very Interesting and Informative! Thank you Ladies!
BTW, at some point could you show how to measure the shoulder width on a person and on the pattern. And where do measure the high bust on a pattern? Thank you.
Here is a video showing how to measure should width and high bust on a person: th-cam.com/video/877feE8WHyw/w-d-xo.html
Hi! Thanks for this video; it was so informative.
Is toilling (sp?) the same as to create a muslin?
Yes, some people refer to it as a muslin, others refer to it as a toile. The terms can be used interchangeably.
Great video… very helpful!! 😊🩷
I know I have to lower the bust on most patterns but I never considered that the issue might be also at the armhole. So, I guess I should try that…
How come I can buy ready to wear in a certain size in many different brands and it fits but clothes patterns usually need lots of adjustment????
There may be many reasons.
1) The eady to wear clothes you buy have your exact proportions while the patterns you buy don't. In this case it is worth measuring the ready to wear clothing you buy, including vertical measurements, to compare it to the patterns you buy.
2) Ready to wear garments have elastane typically to fit more people, even in woven fabrics. If you mostly use pure woven fabrics, those may need more adjustments.
3) Sometimes I think there maybe patternmaking techniques reserved for mass produced clothing (this is only my suspicion, am not actually sure).
@@nusaibahibraheem8183 thanks for the tip about measuring my store bought clothes - I could then use these to alter the patterns that don't fit......
Reason is certainly not stretch content as I only buy pure cotton/linen/etc garments.
I suspect that you might be right 🤔
Great point, I've wondered this too haven't really been able to express it as nicely as you have done. I find sewing clothes need so many adjustments. Maybe, just my opinion, if ready to wear garments don't fit we easily try on a bigger/smaller size. With homemade we have spend the day unpicking😂 and sewing to get it to fit. Not sure if my opinion is true🤷🏻♀️
Very helpful - thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I like a lot of ease such as tunics, not an issue for me. But run into issues with most patterns being too wide at shoulder/neck hole. I like the V neck line but if it’s designed too wide for me then it falls off shoulder. I recently created a center seam in front in hopes of pulling in the shoulder line and shortening the V. Obviously unsure of what I’m doing.
Thank you
You should check out this playlist all about neckline adjustments: th-cam.com/play/PLpd77NK_Xi9-GWz5wtJt7BkTyKfb3tBiE.html
Contrary to what I think was said here,
Back in the day we were taught to chose a pattern by the upper bust measurement, then make a bust adjustment. I think this was so the shoulders fit.
@@lynnm.johnson5755In general, it is more difficult to adjust the shoulder/upper chest down, than it is to increase the pattern to fit a full bust, particularly when the bust is very full. As well, a fuller than “average” bust primarily affects the front pattern pieces, where the breasts are, after all. For reference, my high bust measurement is 36”, and my full bust measurement is 44”. Choosing a pattern size based on my full bust measurement would result in a garment that would be far too large at the shoulders and would have way too much fabric across my back - where my breasts most certainly are *not*. 😂
❤
I have this problem too 😊
I’m very curious about the career trajectory to become a pattern drafter? I am self taught, but I have worked to get fairly proficient at it. I’m ready for a career change, but not sure what direction to go. I would love to learn more about Robin’s career, if she is willing to share. ❤️
My friend does something similar and she had to do a fashion and design course at university. If you already have so much experience you should fly through it! Good luck ❤
There are a few different paths to becoming a pattern maker. You can learn pattern making at a technical or vocational school through a fashion design, pattern making, or apparel technology program. You can also pursue a bachelor's degree in fashion design, which is what Robin did. She then spent many years pattern drafting ready-to-wear for various companies before coming to Seamwork. 😁
Hi. Thank you for this video. I wonder if you could comment on this question: if due to added weight I wear a 40 DD cup bra (but body frame is still about a size 12/14 in upper chest/shoulder in ready to wear clothing), what approach to choosing pattern size are you recommending? It wasn't clear from the discussion. Thanks!
I am a J cup so can tell you what I do. Most pattern companies draft for a B cup. That is a 2 inch difference between upper bust and full bust. So if the upper bust measurement is 36 inches, the bust measurement of the pattern will be 38 inches. Get your upper bust measurement, then add 2 inches. That will give you a much better chance of having the pattern fit on the shoulders etc, then do a full bust adjustment. This keeps the fullness you need on the front of the garment where you need it.
@@Absintheskiss Thanks! That's actually what I do too. It seemed from the talk that she was saying to do something else. I was just curious how she would respond. Thanks from one busty gal to another!
😁
@@AbsintheskissI think she was saying though that you can’t assume the 2” difference across all sizes. Therefore taking the stated bust measurement for the pattern and then to assume the upper bust is ALWAYS 2” more, for ALL sizes, may be incorrect. It will be correct, more likely for the middle of the range of sizes but as the size changes away from the middle size on either side, the 2” difference will/may drift away from 2”.
@@AbsintheskissThis is what I do, too. It is as close to foolproof as possible.
Our patternmakers believe that there are a variety of ways to get to a good fit, rather than just one definitive approach. The method @absintheskiss outlines is a great place to start, and @39houdsteps was correct in the assessment that Robin's point was that as you approach sizes farther away from the middle size range, the 2" difference might not be as accurate. This is why our number one fitting advice is that you should always make a muslin.
This is so interesting. I'm a bra and sewing D cup, sometimes E, and always had problems with fitting my upper body. Since I figured it out I have had much more success by using patterns that draft for varying cup sizes like cashmerette and others. So what you're saying is that the patterns must be based 0n bra sizes, right?
Robin was explaining that to get a better, more accurate grade, using bra cup sizes is preferable to using sewing cup sizes.
Hi I’m another person with a shoulders and frame size difference with my bust measurements. I’m 5’7” with small bones and 32 G bust. Fitted clothes are difficult…
I am unilateral breasted following a right mastectomy without reconstruction. I have trouble accommodating for this in patterns which clearly are designed for people without this issue. I have tried removing the dart and also just making the garment as is without any adjustment to the right side aside from raising the dart on both sides. It's particularly an issue with princess seams. Are there any resources that you are aware of that I could followup to see what my options might be? (Oh usually an AU size 8 -10 roughly which I think is a size 4 - 6 US?) Thanks very much.
I would do a small bust adjustment on just one side. You'll have to trace the front pattern to make a right and left, or to unfold a pattern piece usually cut on the fold.
I have successfully altered an existing princess seam garment from about a D cup to an A, so you can definitely do it at the pattern stage.
It does sound from this video that you know what you are talking about. Then why are the samples that you make every month so ill fitting on the plus size models compared to the smaller model? It is frustrating, demeaning and makes it looks like Seamwork has no idea how to draft larger size or doesn’t care.
For example, the West top was riding up the front of the larger model when It doesn’t on the line drawings or the smaller model. It looks like it was sewn without accounting for the fact that more length was needed for her bust size. The Baker dress looks like it is designed to have an horizontal line below the bust but the sample has a line that cuts right across the larger model’s chest.
I could go on.
Thank you for your feedback. We work hard to create patterns that fit well and look great on all sizes, including our curvy samples. While we do our best and have a high success rate, there are times when we miss the mark, which can happen with our misses sizes too. We understand your frustration and are committed to learning from these experiences to continually improve. Your insights help us grow, so thank you for sharing them.
I wish you had some visual along with the myths……I learn better that way
oh good. on your video of 4 days ago, Robin said 00 to 18
Our current size range is 00 to 30. 😁
The explanation of how and why the cup size changes as the pattern sizes go up or down was making my brain hurt. I was following the logic up to a point, but without a visual illustration, I got a bit lost.
As I understood it, the actual measurement differences could cause the pattern size to technically fall into a different cup size, because the human form changes much less at the shoulder than it does at the torso, as the overall size goes up. In plain language, as we gain weight, we get bigger faster around our chest, waist, and hips than we do across our shoulders. This, again, only as I understand it, explains the difference between sewing pattern “cup size,” vs. bra cup size. If my understanding is accurate, then you would still need to make a full bust adjustment for a larger than “average” bust. And, it would explain a lot for me, personally, on my never-ending journey to fit my 36G/H boobs. 😂😂😂
Your explanation is great, it sounds like you understand exactly what Robin was saying.
why do you not design for plus sizes?
We do design for plus sizes! Our current size range is 00 - 30. You can read more here: help.seamwork.com/hc/en-us/articles/360058348593-Sizing-information-for-Seamwork-patterns