You do not “Aline the RH25 reticle with your day scope’s reticle” as you guy’s seemed to repeat over and over again in this video. There are X/Y margin adjustments in clip-on mode which are used to match the RH25’s screen to your existing day optic reticle. You won’t see any reticle on the RH25 when doing this. If you see the thermal reticle during part of that process, you are doing something incorrectly (like trying to use the stand-alone mode zeros that have nothing to do with clip-on usage). It can definitely lead to… “Lining up the thermal reticle to my scope’s reticle was nearly impossible” Source: Pg.30 of the user manual
Hey guys! Awesome channel. I’m weighing the options between the RH25 and the Pulsar Krypton FXG50 I want the best option for clip on addition to day scopes. Which would y’all go with?
Very helpful, thank you. I was sold on the RH25, but if necessary, the RL25 will fill those shoes. Thanks for also pointing out the ML19 vs the MH25 comparison.
Hey guys. Love your show, I recommend it to friends. I was wondering, with the rl25 were you able to maintain a zero after shutting the unit off, and turning it back on? I seem to be unable to make that happen, any help here?
Pictail adapter and MQD mount, both are on our site. Technically it’s not recommended, probably due to the base magnification. However in theory it’s possible. The NOX18 or STINGIR 640 are other options we carry/stock
so the RL25 isnt great for going in front of an lpvo? Is this just due to screen resolution getting blown up with magnification? Would leaving the scope at 1x solve this? And also - it should plop infront of a red dot no problem correct?
Could you better explain “culminating” the reticle? Because let’s say the RH25 on the front isn’t mounted perfectly zero with your barrel, moving the dot inline with the lpvo doesn’t make sense. You zero the thermal to your impact zone and you use the lpvo as a defacto magnifier that no longer has zero
Perhaps you’re thinking of an Nvg clip on where you aren’t aiming at a screen but actual light transmissions, then in that case you would base your zero on your optics zero.
Look into 3d printing and building a set of digital night vision.. saw a build kit video for dual tubes and it was sub 600$ in parts and material. If you don't tack on the cost of the 3d printer. That's as entry level as you get
Hey guys! Awesome channel. I’m weighing the options between the RH25 and the Pulsar Krypton FXG50 I want the best option for clip on addition to day scopes. Which would y’all go with?
You do not “Aline the RH25 reticle with your day scope’s reticle” as you guy’s seemed to repeat over and over again in this video.
There are X/Y margin adjustments in clip-on mode which are used to match the RH25’s screen to your existing day optic reticle. You won’t see any reticle on the RH25 when doing this. If you see the thermal reticle during part of that process, you are doing something incorrectly (like trying to use the stand-alone mode zeros that have nothing to do with clip-on usage). It can definitely lead to…
“Lining up the thermal reticle to my scope’s reticle was nearly impossible”
Source: Pg.30 of the user manual
S tier comment. 👍👍
Imagine being a vendor for a 5000$ product, making an "educational" video about it, and still not reading the user manual.... yall are goofy af
The RL 25 is very nice! 384 very sufficient for dedicated gun and also helmet mounted.
Agreed!!
So, if one wants to use a dedicated thermal as a clip-on, the thermal should have a base magnification of 1, and no more than 1?
Hey guys! Awesome channel.
I’m weighing the options between the RH25 and the Pulsar Krypton FXG50
I want the best option for clip on addition to day scopes.
Which would y’all go with?
Using a 2x base magnification helmet mounted for anything other than static operation is going to suck ass
Very helpful, thank you. I was sold on the RH25, but if necessary, the RL25 will fill those shoes. Thanks for also pointing out the ML19 vs the MH25 comparison.
Thanks for watching and we’re glad it was helpful!
a comparsion with the andres industry tilo 6z+ would be awesome !!!
Hey guys. Love your show, I recommend it to friends. I was wondering, with the rl25 were you able to maintain a zero after shutting the unit off, and turning it back on? I seem to be unable to make that happen, any help here?
Which would you recommend to mount in front or behind of an eotech? I’m looking for a hybrid night time setup basically
@arkayne what scope mount is that. My primary arms scope mount is too low and doesn’t line up
How many rail slots does the rh25 take up?
Maybe compare the mh25 to the RL, a better head on comparison
Would something like this work with a 56mm lens for forward mount, or does it need to be in the lpvo profile?
Great video guys. Do you know of a mount for the rl25 to run it as a clip on or is this not recommended?
Pictail adapter and MQD mount, both are on our site. Technically it’s not recommended, probably due to the base magnification. However in theory it’s possible. The NOX18 or STINGIR 640 are other options we carry/stock
If you add the cost of outfitting another AR-15 dedicated to thermal. There’s not much price difference. I got mine on sale for $5,000.
Theyre $3500 11 months later thats crazy
The guy on the right is just bubbling with personality
Ya guys plan on reviewing the MH25 V2?
Yep.
@@Arkayne Sweet. I'll hold off purchasing until then 👍
so the RL25 isnt great for going in front of an lpvo?
Is this just due to screen resolution getting blown up with magnification? Would leaving the scope at 1x solve this?
And also - it should plop infront of a red dot no problem correct?
This is what I'm wondering. Someone local has it open box for cheap but I'd like to see if you can get away with putting an optic with it.
what suppressor cover is that?
So is the fact that you can't forward mount the RL25 or is it just inconvenient?
Minimum magnification is too high and the resolution being lower it’s not a good match up.
Could you better explain “culminating” the reticle? Because let’s say the RH25 on the front isn’t mounted perfectly zero with your barrel, moving the dot inline with the lpvo doesn’t make sense. You zero the thermal to your impact zone and you use the lpvo as a defacto magnifier that no longer has zero
Perhaps you’re thinking of an Nvg clip on where you aren’t aiming at a screen but actual light transmissions, then in that case you would base your zero on your optics zero.
..”collimating”.
What I’m hearing is iray competes with itself
Most buyers can't afford what you are pushing. Why don't you show us what people can start out with that won't break the bank.
Buy once cry once!
Look into 3d printing and building a set of digital night vision.. saw a build kit video for dual tubes and it was sub 600$ in parts and material. If you don't tack on the cost of the 3d printer. That's as entry level as you get
Maybe just get your money up? Some of us are professionals and we trust our lives to our equipment. Fudds can stay seething.
Hey guys! Awesome channel.
I’m weighing the options between the RH25 and the Pulsar Krypton FXG50
I want the best option for clip on addition to day scopes.
Which would y’all go with?
The best option is Bering Optics HOGSTER-C clip-on with 42mm Lens