I've watched this series a couple of times now, when I was a complete beginner uptill now when I'm not a beginner. I notice and learn different things everytime I watch this. When I just started I payed attention to the basics of knife making. Now I'm learning lots of things about finish and details. These videos are good for beginners and advanced knifemakers. Thank you for taking your time to make them, as a begining film maker I know how difficult it can be. Cheers
Gough Custom As ***** said, your videos are also very helpful and top notch. I really appreciated the thorough testing of various different steels you took the time to do. Keep up the great work!
Love your videos. You make an excellent instructor and the audio/video quality is high. Everything from production, content, and craftsmanship are nothing short of professional quality. I don't subscribe to many channels any more but I had to make an exception for this one. This type of video is usually sold for profit, so thank you for sharing here!
Thank you so much Walter for sharing your passion and your knowledge of this great profession! Your knowledgeable and easy to follow instructions are very much appreciated! God bless and take care...
Very good video as always. Thanks very much. I've been making knives myself off and on for a couple of years, and I like to watch other makers work to see different ways of accomplishing the same things. Please keep up the good work.
Walter thank you for the videos! Really get me interested in trying blade making. Your videos are easy to understand and I have lots of respect thanks!
Very much enjoyed your presentation. I've made a couple knives (stock removal) and a couple which were beaten into shape by my crude blacksmithing. Crude in both situations but surprisingly satisfactory cutting edges (carbon steel of unknown origin, in one instance a set of blacksmith made shears for gardening which had "retired"). Eventually I may get to try something of more "predetermined" quality. I'm quite familiar with belt grinders and have used one for glass work as well, using wet belts which do a fine job.
very nice tutorial ! for making the bolsters line up, you could just shape them to each other(put the pins through with out the blade in the middle, and grind them on the belt grinder)after you drill the holes.
Dear Walter, As a 13 year old with an interest for knives, hunting - and the like - your work is truly fascinating. I have watched hours on youtube looking for proper advice for knife care and construction, yours are the best. I have 1 question, what do the bolsters do and do you need them? Thank You, Oscar
I made the same style as this knife and absolutely love it (cut myself really bad though)regardless, it's beautiful and feels great in the hand and I'm gonna have to add this to my top designs now
Any chance you could remake all your videos using milimetres and centimetres? Seriously though - thank you for the videos they are hands down the best on the internet.
Sturmgeschutz is 100% correct, that drill bit is going much too fast for effective drilling of stainless. Stainless steel is a terrible conductor of heat, so that heat builds up quickly on the point of the drill bit, making it softer than the steel it is trying to cut. Turn slow, use cutting oil, and draw the bit out regularly to clear the chips. Oh, and NEVER grab the chips or string while the machine is running, it'll deglove your finger in an instant.
Walter, Thank you for the videos, I have been researching knife making for several months and plan to start sometime after the holidays in January. I'm glad I came across your channel. The videos are very well made and extremely informative. On this particular knife, What was the thickness of the 316 stainless steel that was used for the bolsters?
Thats what I call a tutorial video. Not a bunch of obnoxious music playing continuously through limited camera shots and high speed time laps. You did a good informative video. But I myself would've had to use 1095 carbon steel...lol. Again, great vid!
You'd have a hard time telling carbon steels apart in use, like 1084, 1095, W1, O1.. you might be able to tell 5160 if it's softer than 59 HRC. A good heat treat on any of them would be great. Also, don't bash stainless steel - most of the time it sucks because they had a shit heat treatment. A good heat treatment on it and you'll find it in nice straight razors. It outperforms carbon steel, hard to argue.
hey Walter..love all your videos and have learned a lot from you and others. any advice on where I can purchase pre-made damascus? any tips would be great. thanks...and keep teaching us!!!
Hello Walter, great channel and great craftsmanship! I have one question: what's your opinion on corrosion risk/ product degrading caused by contact corrosion (contact between steel and for example brass which differ in redox potential)? Have you encountered such phenomena when applying brass pins in carbon steel blades? Thanks for your help!Greetings from Germany! Nils
I don't have a fancy heat treating oven, and since I watched your videos I discovered that hardening 440C is a bit more complicated than I thought it would be. I have heard that you can send your knife to a professional heat treating company. I was wondering if you knew of the best places to use and which ones were the least expensive. Thanks.
That Norton belt sure does some quick removal work. Thanks, as always, for the great information! Also, I've noticed on numerous videos that your water cooling container is positioned so that you have to lean down for it. Is it merely placed there for use with multiple grinders, or is there another reason it's farther out of the way?
Walter Sorrells hello walter, I want to make a knife, but I am wondering how thick the piece of steel should be... I hope you will answer soon. Thanks tom
Hey Walter, I'm considering buying a 1"x30" belt grinder, but the belt seems a bit narrow, so I want to know if this width (one inch) would be enough for blades up to 5-6 inches? Thanks.
Hey Walter, love the videos sir. I have questions about belt sander belts. You said you use ceramic composite rather than aluminum. We use aluminum composites here at our shop and I’ve noticed on mild/ medium carbon steels, they tend to get hot very quickly and get tempering colors. Is this due to the belts, or am I “leaning” into the belt too much? When I watch you work, it looks like you barely hold your materials against the belt and you don’t get any discoloration. Does that also have to do with your material being stainless steel. There’s so much to consider here so any information would greatly be appreciated. Thank you for your knowledge!
I'm really new to knife making and im a bit confused with the maximum thickness to grind the bevel to so it doesn't warp when heat treating. would grinding to rufly 1mm be ok or could I remove more.thanks for any help.
I absolutely admire this fine design knife...the drop point hunter. They look and feel just right. I have a nice one with a 4" blade, partially cold blued, with striped maple scales/3 brass pins, and a very nice leather full-cover sheath. I don't know the type of steel he used. It was made by T Bell. (Maker's mark has a T inside a bell on the ricasso,,as this his name was T. Bell). I love big Bowie knives...and drop point hunters. I carry this big Bowie and Drop Point Hunter, combo as my edc. You make fine blades, Mr. Sorrels! Nice video. Thank you. *Anyone knowing of Mr. T. Bell knife maker/blacksmith/hawk maker, please let me know if he has a website. I can't locate him. I have two of his great tomahawks and one knife. Thanks!
Finished grinding my first knife, managed to establish a decent grind and plungle line but once I started sanding away all the grind marks, the neck sort of just disappeared and the plungle line got really smooth. Tips on how to preserve crisp sharp lines?
Another question I have, When sanding with water on a carbon steel blade, what is the best way to keep the blade from rusting? I just cleaned it up best I can and did my best to dry it before bringing it indoors but I'm worried once I give it a final polish it's just going to rust really quickly even if I clean it up and bring it inside.
Walter I am drilling holes for my bolster on my knife and using 3/32 pins and burning up bits like crazy. My drill press low speed is 500, and I am using a cutting oil. should I just punt the small pins and go with bigger pins (1/8) or is there a trick to it?
would 1084 steel work well for a knife like this? i have a couple of weeks off coming up and im planning on making my first knife and figured stock removal was a good place to start so i ordered a length of 1 1/2 x 3/16 1084. I'd probably oil quench it in canola. Thank you:)
1084 is a simple High carbon steel For the intent of using it as a hunting knife? Probably not but for an outdoorsman survival tactical camping knife? absolutely. I would recommend 1095, 5160. O1tool steel for the beginner stock removal/ forging. these steels are easy to get(amazon) easy to work with and easy to heat treat.(heat treat it with a blow torch
Just a note 3xx series steels and 4xx series steels are chemically incomparable in salt water; it will tend to plate the 316 steel and corrode the 420c. Only a problem in salt water environments cor upland deer hunting it will be no problem.
I love these videos, they're really helpful for a beginner bladesmith like myself. I have a question about wood types though. I live in New Zealand, and the variety of wood I have access to is quite different to those over in the US. I have Rimu (A native hardwood), Pine, Macrocarpa, Eucalyptus, red/silver/mountain Beech, Birch and a few other assorted varieties at my disposal. Could you recommend any affordable wood types for me to search out?
My sister in law lives in New Zealand and she's given me some really nice things made from NZ wood. I'd really try to use the local wood if I can. But poke around on the internet and you'll find an enormous number of interesting woods
Michael Lamb I enjoy using birch for small carving knives-anything that wont get too beaten up. For some reason, and correct me if I am wrong, but I think you have yew wood in New Zealand? If so, that is a good choice for a knife handle.
Arran Pavelich way down in Invercargill lol, studying mechanical engineering at SIT so that I can be a welder. I do blacksmithing and knifemaking as a hobby :3
Excellent video. Beautiful work. Music gets old quick though. How cheap a belt grinder can you use and still get a decent bevel? Yours looks expensive. =0)
MARK 1 According to McMaster-Carr that's about $87.09 for a piece of 440C that's 1' (length) x 1/8" (thick) x 1.25" (width). Yep, this stuff might not be a so called super steel, but it sure as hell comes close in my opinion. According to the specs I see on the charts at McMaster-Carr, it's Rockwell C20 which can be hardened to C60, Yield Strength of 65,000 PSI. I'll make a knife one day, just need a belt sander, and a few other tools like a drill press would be helpful, probably some tungsten carbide drill bits too for the pins.
Hi from Finland. heheh, well this vid is cool enough to be the most warmest viedo on mytupe. all crafting tips are nothing but _goodies_. only one thing bothers me. When you drill (hard steel) and you see "smoke" there is little "cooling problem". More liquid is more miles (here kilometers) whit ur drill bits.
Quick question...I was checking your source list and the same piece of 440c (.125" x 1.5") was $9.95 from Texas knife (12") and $91.51 from onlinemetals (24"). I realize the one from onlinemetals is twice the length but why is it almost 5 times the cost? The choice is obvious but am I missing?
There was an older guy that passed away and his family uploaded a lot of his knife designs, you could probably find those. I know that's super vague but that's where I got my start. I wish I could help but I don't remember the guys name and I don't use the templates anymore, otherwise I'd email them to you or something.
+Johnnie Blevins I don't recommend the saw blade. (unless it's a much older blade) as new circular saw blades only have the good steel where it's needed. I have not tried lawnmower blades but my instinct is to heat treat. I would recommend using a metal working file as your stock. These are always* some form of high carbon steel and when heat treated properly yield a very hard edge.
The problem with making knives from files is that you don't really know what kind of steel it is and how it was hardened. So many times you'll wind up with a "knife shaped object" at the end. Not to say it can't be an effective cutting tool, but it isn't a high grade knife. That said, the steps are generally as follows. First, you want to anneal the file, which means softening it by heating it up past the critical point where it loses its magnetism. It'll be red hot at this point and requires a lot of energy in a forge or bed of stoked coals with forced air. Let it air cool and it should then be soft enough to hammer forge into a rough shape, and the finished with grinding/sanding. Avoid making the edge too thin or if you do a hollow grind, the middle too thin because when you go to harden it again, it'll warp. And that's the problem, you don't know what type of steel is it, therefore you really don't know how to properly harden and temper it. But you can take a best guess and heat it up again to it's non-magnetic point, this time dunking it in motor oil to quench and harden the steel. At this point it'll be hard but also brittle, so you'll need to either heat it up again and let it cool in a bucket of ash or other insulating material, or bake it (in a forge or an oven) for about 3-5 hours, at 500F. This "draws the temper" leaving it hard but not brittle (ideally). From there you can do your final shaping, apply a handle, and sharpen the knife. If you're lucky you'll have a great little workhorse. If you're unlucky it'll chip or snap and you'll have to start over.
Thanks my friend. I work for a power company and got a small saw blade that is thin. I am going to try to make a fillet knife out of it. It is good steel cause the stay sharp. Will let you know how it turns out.
Joshua Talbot 1 1/2" wide by 1/8"thick. The length depends on the overall design of the knife. There are several online places that provide these types of steel for bladesmiths at reasonable cost.
+Ryan Belmont Start with an old file. That's some of the best high carbon steel you can find, and you can pick up and old file for nothing. People throw them away.
For the bolsters...wouldnt it be easier to just make them way oversized... put the holes through using the knife blank hole locations...then put dummy pins in and grind them while clamped together to the same size and from that you want and voila attach to the blank, peen the pins and grind them down to the edge.
![HOW TO MAKE A KNIFE BEVEL [Trollsky Knifemaking]](/img/n.gif)
This is the single best knife making video for beginning knife makers. Thank you Walter for the inspiration!!!!!
I've watched this series a couple of times now, when I was a complete beginner uptill now when I'm not a beginner. I notice and learn different things everytime I watch this. When I just started I payed attention to the basics of knife making. Now I'm learning lots of things about finish and details. These videos are good for beginners and advanced knifemakers.
Thank you for taking your time to make them, as a begining film maker I know how difficult it can be.
Cheers
Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos. It's much appreciated.
Nicely made video Walter!
Hey Gough! Fancy seeing you here? :D
Harrison King I do like watching well made videos!
***** Thanks mate! Good to hear!
Gough Custom As ***** said, your videos are also very helpful and top notch. I really appreciated the thorough testing of various different steels you took the time to do. Keep up the great work!
Love your videos. You make an excellent instructor and the audio/video quality is high. Everything from production, content, and craftsmanship are nothing short of professional quality. I don't subscribe to many channels any more but I had to make an exception for this one. This type of video is usually sold for profit, so thank you for sharing here!
Thank you so much Walter for sharing your passion and your knowledge of this great profession! Your knowledgeable and easy to follow instructions are very much appreciated!
God bless and take care...
Very good video as always. Thanks very much. I've been making knives myself off and on for a couple of years, and I like to watch other makers work to see different ways of accomplishing the same things. Please keep up the good work.
Thank you Mr Sorrells for a very clear instructions and guides. I think my 1st knife will be a drop point hunting knife.
These are some great techniques shown in a very clear and distinct manner-- kudos Walter!
Walter thank you for the videos! Really get me interested in trying blade making. Your videos are easy to understand and I have lots of respect thanks!
This is a VERY good, instructional video! Thanks for taking the time to share your wealth of knowledge!
Very much enjoyed your presentation. I've made a couple knives (stock removal) and a couple which were beaten into shape by my crude blacksmithing. Crude in both situations but surprisingly satisfactory cutting edges (carbon steel of unknown origin, in one instance a set of blacksmith made shears for gardening which had "retired"). Eventually I may get to try something of more "predetermined" quality. I'm quite familiar with belt grinders and have used one for glass work as well, using wet belts which do a fine job.
This video has been incredibly helpful with guiding me through my first knife build!
I just got a loveless inspired custom from Warren Glover in 440 c with sycamore handles . It’s awesome
very nice tutorial !
for making the bolsters line up, you could just shape them to each other(put the pins through with out the blade in the middle, and grind them on the belt grinder)after you drill the holes.
Dear Walter,
As a 13 year old with an interest for knives, hunting - and the like - your work is truly fascinating. I have watched hours on youtube looking for proper advice for knife care and construction, yours are the best. I have 1 question, what do the bolsters do and do you need them?
Thank You, Oscar
ok
Bolsters aren't needed but they look pretty nice.
I've heard the bolsters are supposed to protect the end grain of the wooden handle scales...AND they look great too!!!
It's a joy to watch your video !
I made the same style as this knife and absolutely love it (cut myself really bad though)regardless, it's beautiful and feels great in the hand and I'm gonna have to add this to my top designs now
Great vid Walt
Any chance you could remake all your videos using milimetres and centimetres? Seriously though - thank you for the videos they are hands down the best on the internet.
Key to drilling stainless is high feed and slow speed. It also helps to have the bit sharpened to a shallower angle.
Sturmgeschütz isn't that a German tank Destroyer from WW2?
More of a mobile gun than a tank destroyer yes.
Sturmgeschutz is 100% correct, that drill bit is going much too fast for effective drilling of stainless. Stainless steel is a terrible conductor of heat, so that heat builds up quickly on the point of the drill bit, making it softer than the steel it is trying to cut. Turn slow, use cutting oil, and draw the bit out regularly to clear the chips. Oh, and NEVER grab the chips or string while the machine is running, it'll deglove your finger in an instant.
I agree. Slower spindle speed, and a 135* drill bit helps a lot.
What type of drill bit is most effective on stainless? Cobalt, carbide, or other?
Walter, Thank you for the videos, I have been researching knife making for several months and plan to start sometime after the holidays in January. I'm glad I came across your channel. The videos are very well made and extremely informative. On this particular knife, What was the thickness of the 316 stainless steel that was used for the bolsters?
I also would like to know the answer to that..
@@gregtaylor555 ea
I can see already that this will be a swell knife that I would carry daily!
Hey Walter, love your posts. Any chance of seeing another series like this for another, different kind of blade?
DUDE,THAT WAS AWESOME!!!
"Cattywampus"..? Never heard that term. Brilliant!
Nice inspirational video...... I do love it!
I wonder if you've made a video about personal protective equipment especially about the respirator you're using.
Love your videos Walter!
will 5160 coil spring steel work for this type of blade?
Hello Walter ! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Where could i find a Marking gauge like yours? Looks pretty good 😊
Mr. Sorrells, I'm a real admirer of your work. How would you feel about making a yataghan??
so much fun to watch, to bad i dont have any tools or money to do this things
You don't need expensive tools and money. All you need is time and a file.
Would using an epoxy and clamp to hold the bolsters in place while you drill for the pins work?
Can I use a regular grinding machine for sharpening blades as well to cut out the blade?
Thats what I call a tutorial video. Not a bunch of obnoxious music playing continuously through limited camera shots and high speed time laps. You did a good informative video. But I myself would've had to use 1095 carbon steel...lol. Again, great vid!
You'd have a hard time telling carbon steels apart in use, like 1084, 1095, W1, O1.. you might be able to tell 5160 if it's softer than 59 HRC. A good heat treat on any of them would be great. Also, don't bash stainless steel - most of the time it sucks because they had a shit heat treatment. A good heat treatment on it and you'll find it in nice straight razors. It outperforms carbon steel, hard to argue.
hey Walter..love all your videos and have learned a lot from you and others. any advice on where I can purchase pre-made damascus? any tips would be great. thanks...and keep teaching us!!!
Hello Walter, great channel and great craftsmanship! I have one question: what's your opinion on corrosion risk/ product degrading caused by contact corrosion (contact between steel and for example brass which differ in redox potential)? Have you encountered such phenomena when applying brass pins in carbon steel blades? Thanks for your help!Greetings from Germany!
Nils
I don't have a fancy heat treating oven, and since I watched your videos I discovered that hardening 440C is a bit more complicated than I thought it would be. I have heard that you can send your knife to a professional heat treating company. I was wondering if you knew of the best places to use and which ones were the least expensive. Thanks.
That Norton belt sure does some quick removal work. Thanks, as always, for the great information!
Also, I've noticed on numerous videos that your water cooling container is positioned so that you have to lean down for it. Is it merely placed there for use with multiple grinders, or is there another reason it's farther out of the way?
Walter Sorrells hello walter, I want to make a knife, but I am wondering how thick the piece of steel should be... I hope you will answer soon. Thanks tom
Hey Walter, I'm considering buying a 1"x30" belt grinder, but the belt seems a bit narrow, so I want to know if this width (one inch) would be enough for blades up to 5-6 inches?
Thanks.
Great videos. How did you get Ray Liotta from Goodfellas to narrate?
Hey Walter, love the videos sir. I have questions about belt sander belts. You said you use ceramic composite rather than aluminum. We use aluminum composites here at our shop and I’ve noticed on mild/ medium carbon steels, they tend to get hot very quickly and get tempering colors. Is this due to the belts, or am I “leaning” into the belt too much? When I watch you work, it looks like you barely hold your materials against the belt and you don’t get any discoloration. Does that also have to do with your material being stainless steel. There’s so much to consider here so any information would greatly be appreciated. Thank you for your knowledge!
I'm really new to knife making and im a bit confused with the maximum thickness to grind the bevel to so it doesn't warp when heat treating. would grinding to rufly 1mm be ok or could I remove more.thanks for any help.
Great tutorial as always Walter. Question, did you ream or countersink your holes on the bolsters before you peeped them?
I have a 6in bench grinder and I was wondering the best way to create bevels with this tool .
I absolutely admire this fine design knife...the drop point hunter. They look and feel just right. I have a nice one with a 4" blade, partially cold blued, with striped maple scales/3 brass pins, and a very nice leather full-cover sheath. I don't know the type of steel he used. It was made by T Bell. (Maker's mark has a T inside a bell on the ricasso,,as this his name was T. Bell).
I love big Bowie knives...and drop point hunters. I carry this big Bowie and Drop Point Hunter, combo as my edc.
You make fine blades, Mr. Sorrels! Nice video. Thank you.
*Anyone knowing of Mr. T. Bell knife maker/blacksmith/hawk maker, please let me know if he has a website. I can't locate him. I have two of his great tomahawks and one knife. Thanks!
Cobalt drills specifically made to drill stainless and other hard metals are best for this kind of thing
What kind of drill bits do you use?
Finished grinding my first knife, managed to establish a decent grind and plungle line but once I started sanding away all the grind marks, the neck sort of just disappeared and the plungle line got really smooth. Tips on how to preserve crisp sharp lines?
Another question I have, When sanding with water on a carbon steel blade, what is the best way to keep the blade from rusting? I just cleaned it up best I can and did my best to dry it before bringing it indoors but I'm worried once I give it a final polish it's just going to rust really quickly even if I clean it up and bring it inside.
" Cattywampus " ....... I love that term !
Fascinating watch
Walter I am drilling holes for my bolster on my knife and using 3/32 pins and burning up bits like crazy. My drill press low speed is 500, and I am using a cutting oil. should I just punt the small pins and go with bigger pins (1/8) or is there a trick to it?
are you using cobalt bits?
would 1084 steel work well for a knife like this? i have a couple of weeks off coming up and im planning on making my first knife and figured stock removal was a good place to start so i ordered a length of 1 1/2 x 3/16 1084. I'd probably oil quench it in canola. Thank you:)
1084 is a simple High carbon steel For the intent of using it as a hunting knife? Probably not but for an outdoorsman survival tactical camping knife? absolutely.
I would recommend 1095, 5160. O1tool steel for the beginner stock removal/ forging. these steels are easy to get(amazon) easy to work with and easy to heat treat.(heat treat it with a blow torch
Just a note 3xx series steels and 4xx series steels are chemically incomparable in salt water; it will tend to plate the 316 steel and corrode the 420c. Only a problem in salt water environments cor upland deer hunting it will be no problem.
For the bolsters, can i use the 440c stainless steel i have aready?
I love these videos, they're really helpful for a beginner bladesmith like myself. I have a question about wood types though. I live in New Zealand, and the variety of wood I have access to is quite different to those over in the US. I have Rimu (A native hardwood), Pine, Macrocarpa, Eucalyptus, red/silver/mountain Beech, Birch and a few other assorted varieties at my disposal. Could you recommend any affordable wood types for me to search out?
My sister in law lives in New Zealand and she's given me some really nice things made from NZ wood. I'd really try to use the local wood if I can. But poke around on the internet and you'll find an enormous number of interesting woods
Remember to use protection, the wood dust is quite toxic if you use rimu
Michael Lamb I enjoy using birch for small carving knives-anything that wont get too beaten up. For some reason, and correct me if I am wrong, but I think you have yew wood in New Zealand? If so, that is a good choice for a knife handle.
+Michael Lamb yaaahh go new zealand!!
where abouts are you in nz, I'm in wellington...?
Arran Pavelich way down in Invercargill lol, studying mechanical engineering at SIT so that I can be a welder. I do blacksmithing and knifemaking as a hobby :3
How do you sharpen a curved blade like a karambit?
Excellent video. Beautiful work. Music gets old quick though. How cheap a belt grinder can you use and still get a decent bevel? Yours looks expensive. =0)
I sir, demand part2 of your tutorial on making Damascus
Im not sure demanding is going to encourage him.
Have you ever put a stacked leather handle on a drop point hunter?
where do you buy your Coby fassener?
a quick question, do you do knife templates
Hy, can i use 316 for making a blade instead of 440C. ty
13:01 Am I crazy or do I hear a windows 7 noise?
Also, great video! Thank you Walter :)
Very nice!
Where did you buy your 440C Steel? How thick of a piece did you buy?
1/8 inch thick
Harrison King
awesome, thanks.
MARK 1 According to McMaster-Carr that's about $87.09 for a piece of 440C that's 1' (length) x 1/8" (thick) x 1.25" (width). Yep, this stuff might not be a so called super steel, but it sure as hell comes close in my opinion. According to the specs I see on the charts at McMaster-Carr, it's Rockwell C20 which can be hardened to C60, Yield Strength of 65,000 PSI. I'll make a knife one day, just need a belt sander, and a few other tools like a drill press would be helpful, probably some tungsten carbide drill bits too for the pins.
Can you use a normal grinder?
Hi from Finland. heheh, well this vid is cool enough to be the most warmest viedo on mytupe. all crafting tips are nothing but _goodies_. only one thing bothers me. When you drill (hard steel) and you see "smoke" there is little "cooling problem". More liquid is more miles (here kilometers) whit ur drill bits.
Where do you buy your steel?
Quick question...I was checking your source list and the same piece of 440c (.125" x 1.5") was $9.95 from Texas knife (12") and $91.51 from onlinemetals (24"). I realize the one from onlinemetals is twice the length but why is it almost 5 times the cost? The choice is obvious but am I missing?
go with the cheaper one? 440c is 440c
+mattbaker333 I bought 72" / 6 feet from Admiral steel for $85.44 delivered. 1 1/2 x 3/16
It's so hard to find specific types of metal to buy in the UK, could someone help me on where to find 440C stainless steel?
Take d2 toolsteel👍
God bless America and long live the republic
Chin Chun Su sootch00 viewer as well?
PANDREW AVELAR yep!
what web sight do you get your steel
where did you get your steel
I don't know if i missed it, but what is the name and purpose of the hole at the base of the blade in the plunge grind?
Those are for ease of sharpening so you don't run up against the side of the stone
hello how do you make a stonewashed blade please make a video on this thank you
Hey Walter, i need a template to make a knife, do you know any good website for it, or even to make a knife template?
There was an older guy that passed away and his family uploaded a lot of his knife designs, you could probably find those. I know that's super vague but that's where I got my start. I wish I could help but I don't remember the guys name and I don't use the templates anymore, otherwise I'd email them to you or something.
Thx!
Sir, when I grow up I want to be just like you!!!!!
The steel I used when first making a knife is 1095 carbonsteel. I am sure saying it was a great decision.
Nice vid thanks for sharing
how much was your pillar drill
is 300 serie stanlis ok for knife making
if i use a circular saw or lawnmower blade do i need to heat treat
+Johnnie Blevins I don't recommend the saw blade. (unless it's a much older blade) as new circular saw blades only have the good steel where it's needed.
I have not tried lawnmower blades but my instinct is to heat treat. I would recommend using a metal working file as your stock. These are always* some form of high carbon steel and when heat treated properly yield a very hard edge.
What was the blue paint stuff the guy had on his blade
Its machinists layout dye/fluid it is very helpful when laying out blade shapes and curves and even when marking where the bevel should stop
Daniel Napast...or just use a sharpie...the modern machinist dye
What kind of wood is that handle??
Does anyone have a video of how to make a folding bird knife with the gut hook?
How width is the metal?
If I wanted to make a knife out of a file do I heat it up first? Do I cut it ti shape and then heat it up?
You soften it by heating it and then cut it, or else it will take a veeery long time to cut and if your unlucky it might shatter.
then do you heat it again after you have it cut out and shaped?
Walter Sorrells literally has a video series about this on his channel.
The problem with making knives from files is that you don't really know what kind of steel it is and how it was hardened. So many times you'll wind up with a "knife shaped object" at the end. Not to say it can't be an effective cutting tool, but it isn't a high grade knife.
That said, the steps are generally as follows. First, you want to anneal the file, which means softening it by heating it up past the critical point where it loses its magnetism. It'll be red hot at this point and requires a lot of energy in a forge or bed of stoked coals with forced air. Let it air cool and it should then be soft enough to hammer forge into a rough shape, and the finished with grinding/sanding. Avoid making the edge too thin or if you do a hollow grind, the middle too thin because when you go to harden it again, it'll warp. And that's the problem, you don't know what type of steel is it, therefore you really don't know how to properly harden and temper it. But you can take a best guess and heat it up again to it's non-magnetic point, this time dunking it in motor oil to quench and harden the steel. At this point it'll be hard but also brittle, so you'll need to either heat it up again and let it cool in a bucket of ash or other insulating material, or bake it (in a forge or an oven) for about 3-5 hours, at 500F. This "draws the temper" leaving it hard but not brittle (ideally). From there you can do your final shaping, apply a handle, and sharpen the knife. If you're lucky you'll have a great little workhorse. If you're unlucky it'll chip or snap and you'll have to start over.
Thanks my friend. I work for a power company and got a small saw blade that is thin. I am going to try to make a fillet knife out of it. It is good steel cause the stay sharp. Will let you know how it turns out.
What is the width, length and height of the 440c ss he's using?
Joshua Talbot 1 1/2" wide by 1/8"thick. The length depends on the overall design of the knife. There are several online places that provide these types of steel for bladesmiths at reasonable cost.
Thank you.
Sweet knife
I have no experience with knife making and I dont want to by expensive steel and have the knife not turn out. any advice
+Ryan Belmont Materials are cheap. The work involved is the real cost here. But you just have to jump in and try it. You'll never know till you try.
+Walter Sorrells thanks.
Mike McCulloch thanks
+Ryan Belmont I get 3 feet of 5160 steel for $5
+Ryan Belmont Start with an old file. That's some of the best high carbon steel you can find, and you can pick up and old file for nothing. People throw them away.
you didn't say how thick the bolsters are, are the 1x8"?
+james spears he said when beginning to drill them
For the bolsters...wouldnt it be easier to just make them way oversized... put the holes through using the knife blank hole locations...then put dummy pins in and grind them while clamped together to the same size and from that you want and voila attach to the blank, peen the pins and grind them down to the edge.
What is the thickness for the bolster?
It's been a while...but I think it's made from 1/8th inch stock.
Walter Sorrells Thank you for getting back to me I appreciate it, Awesome video and excellent craftsmanship.
how thick is the steel you are using?
1/8th inch.
Same size for the bolsters?
+justame smith 1/8 is a little on the thinner side, but it should work great if you aren't doing anything like splitting logs
I would like to have a kitchen knife, like Japanese style. Let me know if you can do it
Roose Bolton Alert!
could i buy one of your knifes