I'm already positively surprised that the mixing hotend didn't clog. It just looks like an Ender 3 (not v2, but original) where they tried to add some spec-points to convince people this would be better, but where indeed those extra features aren't really finished very well. Then again, it did work apparently ...
I like the option of two color printing. And if it survive those first few layers and the bulb on first layer (mentioned in video) it reliably finish the bi-color printing.
What did you modify in the g-code for the dual color printing? And why did you need to change it? I'm trying to figure out dual color printing on this printer and there's very little help I can find online. Now that you had to change the g-code I'm really nervous I'll screw up my printer if I don't.
I used the provided slicer (which is Lotmaxx version of Cura). Sure, I tried newest Cura too, which is my primary slicer for most of my printers. Same problem I had with Wipe tower.
The Shark V2 has better hardware than Ender, sadly that's all the advantages, mine came with bent bltouch, there is literally no support for this printer by the manufacture, their reply was to not use bltouch. The software on this is the worst I've seen & there is no open source code for it. The printer doesn't work with octoprint as it gives blobs on the print surface (people say they've gotten it work) in my research are just running prints from SD card while using octoprint (useless in my use case for a print farm). I would stay away from this printer and recommend an Artillery or Ender instead.
Poor idea to extrude towers every time. Much better to have two noises on one hot end and retract paused Colour. Lazy engineering in this printer developer company
1:47 those are some sick butterfly skills right there
camera work is superb, you solved my problem of focusing the laser. thanks, Del
Morning! Thanks for the quality content!
I'm already positively surprised that the mixing hotend didn't clog. It just looks like an Ender 3 (not v2, but original) where they tried to add some spec-points to convince people this would be better, but where indeed those extra features aren't really finished very well. Then again, it did work apparently ...
I like the option of two color printing. And if it survive those first few layers and the bulb on first layer (mentioned in video) it reliably finish the bi-color printing.
great test (once again), with a nice private moment :)
Great review thanks !!
5:14 You could probably remove them all at once (and reinsert them the same way)
29:00 It would also be *a lot* safer. I can't believe they made it that way, it's a major flaw
What did you modify in the g-code for the dual color printing? And why did you need to change it? I'm trying to figure out dual color printing on this printer and there's very little help I can find online. Now that you had to change the g-code I'm really nervous I'll screw up my printer if I don't.
Thanks,
Why did you use so old Cura version? Today you can use 4.13.1...
I used the provided slicer (which is Lotmaxx version of Cura). Sure, I tried newest Cura too, which is my primary slicer for most of my printers. Same problem I had with Wipe tower.
@@MyTechFun Thank you for the information. I guess the firmware is not good enough but I don't have experience with dual color printers.
The Shark V2 has better hardware than Ender, sadly that's all the advantages, mine came with bent bltouch, there is literally no support for this printer by the manufacture, their reply was to not use bltouch. The software on this is the worst I've seen & there is no open source code for it. The printer doesn't work with octoprint as it gives blobs on the print surface (people say they've gotten it work) in my research are just running prints from SD card while using octoprint (useless in my use case for a print farm). I would stay away from this printer and recommend an Artillery or Ender instead.
Yes, it has some space for improvements. I am sure that V3 will be much better :-) (but Artillery or Ender can't print in two colors)
can it engrave metal?
No, you need 10W for stainless steel engraving directly
Are you swedish?
No (mix, Hungarian, Serbian, Croatian)
Poor idea to extrude towers every time. Much better to have two noises on one hot end and retract paused Colour. Lazy engineering in this printer developer company