FUPA Cup Vs Standard Is there a Difference? #12 Furick Fupa - Stainless Tig Welding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- TRYING see if a larger cup will make a difference in Stainless Welds? These Furick FUPA #12 cups. Seems like it helped quite bit, but what do you think ?
The Furick FUPA cuts use clear pyrex with a stainless steel cover to protect it.
Behind the Scenes TH-cam Channel: / @oldbarnhomestead
On the outside corner, the shield gas flows along the two slopes and actually that sucks in air. The inside corner forces sort of stop of the shield gas stream which nearly floats back, maintaining shield coverage. You can see similar behavior with shop air blast, where additional air joins the jet from around the nozzle. If you really want to see it, blow through some smoke or flatly along the top of a dusty bench. It is not just a narrow jet that removes the smoke or dust. Additional air has joined the trip and widened the path.
Besides a wider cup (that tends to force you to use a longer electrode stick-out), you could try adding some clay walls on the work, trying to stop the easy flow of the shield gas along the two slopes. Another thing you can try is REDUCING the shield gas flow. A wider cup does the same, reducing the jet speed, if you don’t increase the flow setting. Less speed = less turbulence and less sucked in air.
Some excellent points here thank you sir
Pellervo, does this same "outside corner" effect apply to stainless steel exhaust tubing? I have been practicing for a couple of months on SS exhaust scrap pipes, and virtually all of my welds (mostly butt joint) are grayish coloring. I never get gold or blue coloring. I am trying autogenous as well as with filler rod, still grayish. Thanks for any tips. Dave F.
Yes, it does. In fact, it is a general behavior, although on mild steel you don’t notice it the same way. Something like titanium or zirconium are absolutely miserable. Stainless steels you mostly can wire brush to acceptable appearance - the better the sooner, you should do it after weld while still hot.
By the way, we had a couple of times the gas supplier deliver argon/oxygen mix instead of pure argon. 2% oxygen can be sometimes used on MIG, but our TIG welds (and the electrode as well) were garbage. In fact, you could check the gas quality by looking at the discoloration of your electrode. Silvery satin appearance tells about moisture, straw color tells there is some parts per million level oxygen. Blue color tells about nitrogen (air) and black results with any strong contamination or long duration.
Thanks for the reply. I have indeed been wire brushing and they look OK after that. But it's disappointing to never get the beautiful coloring. Thanks for the tips!
Cool idea on the clay. I was thinking he could also just clamp some aluminum 90 degree angle on either side and that can help keep your Argon in somewhat of a trough. Sometimes you just can't do too much to prevent that oxidization. There are times when I've weld it outside where you're just going to get that oxide, yet it doesn't mean your weld is inferior or contaminated
I've never yet laid hands on any type of welder for any purpose, but I've been wishing to take up the discipline for many years.
I get a great deal of information and enjoyment out of watching this kind of content.
I think it's one of the best ways to begin building a familiarity with the tools, terminology, and techniques, prior to making an investment in a welding setup of some sort.
I've been watching your videos for a couple of years now, and just want to tell you that I appreciate the dedication and commitment you put into your work.
Happy new year!
This is what iv learned in the last decade so far. 1- stainless move as fast as possible once the puddle forms. 2- as big a cup as practical. 3- use an oversized filler 3/32 insted of1/6 and 1/8 insted of 3/32 it cools the puddle every dab. 3- smaller more frequent dabs. Looking good! love the compound miters
Awesome tips andrew. I have tried larger fillers, and keeping the heat at the same, It seems to want to stick and not flow in very easily which creates more issues for me. maybe raise the torch a little, and dab more toward the center of the puddle instead of hte leading edge ?
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra I hear you. It’s a quicker dab because your chilling the puddle so quick the filler sticks. I still hit the edge but it’s a quick “quite click” sound than out and mostly practice! Over and over. I also forgot to mention the first time try coming across some huge aluminum chill blocks you can rest your pieces up against that will draw even more heat out of the weld and maintain the nice color you were looking for. Good luck. Great videos!
@@SkiDuneTech I know I'm 2 years to late. But a stainless weld that was under argon until it cooled is going to be silver /gold. The blue come from removing the gas before it's cold enough to not color. In this video he didn't clean anything before welding. He didn't post flow long enough. For a simple joint like that just lay wire it and run fast too avoid pulling your filler out of shielding gas. Gas needs to be 20 to 25. Color doesn't mean a good weld. Bright silver is a perfect stainless weld. If you're penetrating deep enough to need backpurge but not back purging you're sucking up o2 from the inside into your puddle. If you see the puddle dancing that's how you are getting full pen.
Great comparison! Thanks!
Learning a lot from this guy...bought an annular bit to drill 1/2 plate...was fantastic!
Thanks Tim, appreciate you watching
outside corner joint is getting to hot thats why its turning gray. it will develop rust from over heating. so use your fupa cup and use pulse settings (if you have it) on your outside corner joints.or pulse the pedal at about 100 amps and see if that helps. i would also bump up the post flow to 7 seconds.
I think I have my post flow wide open, set to the max. That's good, except in this video I wasnt dwelling at the ends of the runs, so it wasnt doing any good lol. Some excellent points here. I think travel speed was my biggest issue.
Turn heat down for outside corners and add a bit more filler wire. I've been wanting one of these cups my self. Merry Christmas brother
Thanks Chris, good insight. Merry Christmas
I would try to use a gas lens. This would directs the gas to the puddle better than just the nozzle cup by itself.
I love furick cups! Best I've ever used
Run about 25cfh using that cup
Try 80-90 amps and pick up travel speed. I bet your color and bead profile look great.
From what I see your travel speed is a little slow. It's impossible to outrun the heat and you'll end up cooking all the chromium out. Trying to do my best to help. I know if we worked together in one afternoon you'll would be making great welds. There only a couple minor tweaks to get you where you want to be. Mainly quicker travel speed
Thanks Mike. I really appreciate it. The strange thing is, I did try one of the corners, with no filler, basically just ran the torch over the joint and fused it together, went as fast I possibly could while not going so fast that it didnt fuse. Basically same result. What's odd about all fit is I use the same technique on the inside corners and those seem to have pretty good color, at least not hazy. Thanks again for all yoru comments!
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra remember outside corner joints need better gas coverage than inside corner joints thats partially trapping gas. Outside corner joints usually need a little less amperage also. You'll be good to go by the end of the week if you keep practicing. I would bet money on that. Inside looked great just practice your outside
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra make sure your gas coverage is good. A crappy gas lens could be a problem
Ok, i will try a new gas lense to see how that works.
Your shop looks dialed man very clean and organized
Thanks for sharing. I appreciate seeing the difference.
They make ads on pulse for many machines sub 500 bucks if you want to keep the penetration constant and shielding coverage ideal in all positions. Pedal pulsing can’t do that on the fly and compensate gas coverage, obviously not what was being done here but some may suggest it is all. I’ve also found that using a heat sink clamped to the part on outside tie ins helps too. I can run as hot as the wall thickness will allow in the flat for overhead outside work as long as the heat has a route to escape. Internal purging only caries away a fraction of temp compared to a big slab of copper or aluminum.
Thats a really nice table!
Looks like a certiflat table.
You took the shield gas away while it was still cherry kinda explains why I side is better and outside isn't
Joshua Richards i don’t know why some people make videos to explain the tig and don't even know how to weld themselves 🤦🏻♂️
Did you turn your gas CFM up when you went to the bigger cup?
Looks like one still has mil scale on it. Doesn’t that make a difference?
Need one of those cups for my everlast tig welder. Looks like really good coverage.
Leaving a comment.
I need to start practicing three times per week on similar pieces.
Yes, I need to practice more as well. This is an important good paying job so I want to get it right.
I'm looking for some different cups for my everlast tig welder. Thanks for the video bro.
In one clip it looked like you flipped it while it was still glowing hot. You should camp out with the postflow and do the same test. The fupa cup is sweet but sometimes it gets in the way. Don't you think?
Yes, it was getting in the way on some of the inside joints and you are right, I wasnt dwelling long enough on the post flow, sometimes i skip that on practice pieces but actually thats bad practice, should do it even when practicing
Just started to tig weld if use 200 amps it would blow hole in the metal is that because lm moving to slow shaun uk
lower your amperage and decrease your arc length
Greying in stainless can happen for many reasons. Big 3 are too hot, not keeping filler in shielding gas and not proper application of shield gas. I think your having a problem with those 3. It's very important to slowly taper off amperage at the end of weld and keep the weld in gas for at least 3 seconds after weld is finished.
V out the out side corner and it will weld way cleaner. The inside almost makes a natural V for the filler to lay down inside of so it looks a bit cleaner naturally. if you were to grind the weld on these joints down for a finished corner it wouldn't be structurally sound the way you have it right now.
I keep looking at TIG welders and wanting one and wanting a plasma cutter but seems like it would be over kill for the welding I do. Don't take much of a fancy rig to weld stuff to spark plugs Lol
Fantastic info in the comment section.
Yes sir, sometimes some random basic video that you almost dont even upload turns out to be a huge learning experience.
It’s all about your torch angle on your outside corner joints doesn’t matter if your running 200 or 100 amps if your angle isn’t right it will be burnt looking like that. Go just hot enough to break the corners down then don’t go any more than that. Really angle that torch and allow the gas to cool the metal before you even weld it. Makes the world of difference. Outside corners and very hard to get the hang of. Good luck man
Good info, thanks! But in all of the issues I was having, it turned out not to be travel speed, amp settings, torch angle or any of that. It turns out that the argon bottles I get from my local welding supply, once you get down to the last 20% of the tank, the gas is dirty/contaminated. New gas bottle, issue solved...
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra I’ve ran some bottles that ran bad before also. Sometimes they will have the wrong gas in them also
The Furic weld definitely looked cleaner. :-)
Stainless is tricky... I know you are supposed to use way less heat, and or move faster. Since it's .120 wall, you'll be better served chamfering all the way around. As far as filler rod size, that I don't know. I'm guessing you can go smaller to get a flater weld profile that sets into the chamfer better. I have the Furick Cup as well... it's pretty awesome.
But when you go into production mode on these, you might want to build up some clay dams around the outside joints so the gas stays in there. Do you have a jar of that heat sink putty? I've used that to trap gas before, and it's reusable. There's Hot Block, Cold Shield and Cool Blue. (I know there's more, but those are the only ones I'm familiar with)
Yea I wasnt sure if I needed to chamfer those, I think the main issue was travel speed.
I've heard of these cups - I think Jody was using one. They seem to be well rated from what I have heard... seemed to suit you OK.
Yes, Jody has shown them a few times. I like the smaller ones, but not sure about this big one lol
Learning by stealth. Cheers :)
Read back through the comments section in this, tons of great posts by some smart people!
Hi Gar,, 1 Dumb question,, Why air cooled, torch,, Most time we had 5 guys and Gals, Heli-Arcing 8 hrs a day,, Yep some of the females thought 20 ga. was like 1/4 inch Plate,, Thanks,,,,
I dont have a water cooler or torch, just using a cheap eastwood tig machine. I definitely need to upgrade
Nice video good info. How often do you use your Eastwood welder and plasma cutter? Do they work as advertised? Heard horror stories of not working right out of the box
The Eastwood Tig has been great for what I use it for. I just wish it had pulse. But I have never had one problem with it. The Mig welders are not as good. I dont like the way the mig welder welds, and I have had 3 problems with it, and its actually currently not working.
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra Thanks for the reply. How is there plasma cutter? I have been considering buying one of those.
I have only used it 2-3 times. You can see it being used in this video. th-cam.com/video/GAUFZmDxcLE/w-d-xo.html It worked great. Want to buy a used one? I never use it, its' basically brand new but it's all dusty from sitting in the shop.
Why the Fuck would anyone back purge square tubing?
You need to work on the outside corners, A LOT!
Travel speed, torch angle... Lots of factors involved here before the cup had a chance to make a discernable difference..
Excellent point. I think my travel speed was the main issue
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra what would be awesome is if you did the same video again in 3 or 6 months see if any technique improvements from 6061.com could make more difference in the final outcome. Or maybe go back and do comparisons with some of your earlier videos on your TIG technique now. I think your audience would appreciate that
You don’t need the Mike’s cup for that you’re running it too hot on the outside corners and your torch angle is off
Thanks David
Dont need these cups for welding stainless at all. Clamp a piece of aluminium or better copper flat bar to the job to trap the gas. Dont need any bigger than an 8 with a gas lense. Unless your welding titanium or reactive alloys these are a waste of money
Ur a really bad camera man!! Killing me bro!! Also looks to me like ur not keeping the post flow on it at all.??? Stainless needs post flow man.
Ya heat is to high try pulse
You're burning it in too hot. And You're pulling away too fast after each weld.
Right, I think its mostly a travel speed thing, need to move on faster.
I just saw your new video and posted over there.
@@turbocobra travel speed is key. More amps does not equal more heat unless you stay in the same spot too long. You'll cook stainless that way. Need to get travel speed faster but the only way to do that is turn the amperage up so you get a faster puddle.
Данный человек не сварщик, нет опыта, не понимает что он делает, допускает огромное количество ошибок, не соблюдает технологию ...
Do you do this for a living? Do you charge people for your welding? I'm being completely honest here but you should take some welding lessons and practice a lot more. Can't really see the difference in the cups if you have way too much heat, wander your arc everywhere and glob on rod like you're buttering bread